US1122195A - Manufacture of boots and shoes. - Google Patents

Description

K. ENGEL.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLIOATION FILED MAR. 24, 1910.

L 1 22, 1 9n. Patented Dec. 22, 1914.

' THE NORRIS PETERS 60.. PHOTOLITHQ, WASHINGTON, 0

barren strains ra'rnnr orriba KARL ENGEL, 0F ARLINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

ineaiea Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 22, 1914.

Application filed March 24, 1910. Serial No. 551,292.

. sachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the h Ianufacture of Boots and "Shoes, of which the following description, in

connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to that type known as stitch-downs. In stitchdown shoes the upper is turned outwardly and stitched to the upper face of the sole. Where, however, it is desired to produce a shoe which may readily be mended by replacing the outer sole, an inner sole is first stitched to the upper; and since in this type of shoe the last is inserted after the forward part of the stitching has been done short innor soles have been made use of which extend from the toe to the rear portion of the shank. When such an innersole has been stitched throughout the extent of its edge to the upper the unfinished shoe is comparatively flexible so that a last may then be inserted preparatory to laying the outer sole and stitching it to the inner sole and upper around the whole shoe. In the manufacture of these shoes it has been customary to make use of counters of the usual form, said counters being skived throughout their entire edge. The lower outturned margin of such a counter is consequently very thin; and in asmuch as the inner sole does not extend beneath the heel portion of the upper a considerable space exists between the lower face of the outturned portion of the counter and the upper face of the outer sole. To fill this space and to provide a spring heel when de sired it has been necessary to insert a thick lift. Such lifts are comparatively expensive, and one feature of the present invention consists in the production of a shoe wherein the necessity for their use is obviated and thinner and less expensive lifts may be substituted. In order to accomplish this result the counter, instead of being skived to a thin edge entirely around its margin, is formed with its lower margin of normal thickness so that when said margin together with the lower margin of the upper is turned outwardly around the heel portion a much narrower gap is left between its lower face and the upper face of the outer sole. In order to facilitate the bending of the lower margin of the counter outwardly said counter is formed along the line of turning with a groove; and preferably the counter is also formed with a depression at the center of its lower margin which, when said counter is turned outwardly, furnishes space for the reception of thelower outturned portion of the backstay. With this construction a much thinner lift can be used than was formerly the case, and at the same time that portion of the lower margin of the counter which was formerly skived off and discarded. now becomes a part of the finished shoe and contributes to its strength and wearing qualities.

Another feature of the present invention consists in the counter described above as an article of manufacture.

These and other features of the invention including certain details of construction and combinations of parts will be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the appended claims.

Referring now to the accompanying drawings :Figure 1 is a perspective of a counter of approved form; Fig. 2 is a cross-section of the same on the line 2--2; Fig. 3 is a perspective of a shoe embodying a counter of the form shown in Fig. 1.

In Fig. 1 there is shown a counter of ordinary outline but differing from ordinary counters in having its lower edge 1 of a thickness equal approximately to that of its center or unskived portion 3, the upper curved portion being skived as usual as ind cat d at 4. In order that space may be provided for the outturned lower portion of the back stay the counter is formed with a depression 5; and for a reason presently to be set forth the edge 1 of the counter is tapered at each end as indicated at 6. Besides the features noted above there is formed in the counter a groove 7 extending from end to end along the lower margin, said groove being deeper at its central portions and becoming gradually shallower toward either end so that the portions indicated at 8 are of approximately the same thickness as the thicker portions of the edge 1. For convenience the face of the counter which is exposed in Fig. 1 will be termed the inner face since that is a proper designation with reference to its relative position in the assembled shoe. It will be observed then, that the lower edge is of a thickness approximately equal to that of the central portion, that the outline of said central portion corresponds to the outline of the counter, and that the face of the lower edge forms substantially a right angle with the inner face of the counter and may therefore be termed a square edge to distinguish it from the beveled edge 4. It should be noted also that the groove 7 and the depression 5 may be said to represent areas of comparative flexibility.

In Fig. 3 there is shown a shoe made in accordance with the present invention, and for convenience a spring heel shoe has been chosen for illustration. The outturned portion of the upper is shown at 18, the thick edge of the counter at'l, the comparatively thin lift at 9, the inner sole at 10, and the outer sole at 11. Had an ordinary counter been used its lower edge (which would have corresponded to the edge 1) would have been very thin so that to produce a spring heel shoe a thick lift would have been required to fill the space occupied in the illus- 'trated shoe by the thick edge 1 of the counter and the thin lift 9. These thick lifts as well as the counters must be cut from the more valuable portions of the hide while the thinner lifts may be out from the less valu- 'able portions. The present invention, therefore, does away with the necessity for thick, expensive lifts and permits the utilization of a certain portion of the died-out counter which was formerly skived off and discarded. In the manufacture of shoes of this type the parts of the upper are assembled and the heel molded into shape by a machine comprising a fiat yoke which contacts with the upper along the line 12 of the turn and a Wiping member which turns the upper outwardly over said yoke and exerts a compressing action on the out-turned portion. In this operation the outturned portion of .the back stay 13 is forced against that polrtion of counter opposite to the depression 5 so that the outturned portion of said counter together with the outturned portion of the upper at this point is distorted as shown to make room for the back stay and thereby bring the upper surface of the outturned portion of the back stay into the plane of the corresponding surface of the upper at either side of it. The result of the depression of this portion of the back stay is thus to render the edge of the lower part of the shoe about the heel portion of substantially uniform thickness.

In order to make a smooth joint between the ends of the counter and the end of the inner sole the end of the inner sole is beveled as shown at 6 and the beveled end 6 of the counter is caused to extend into the V-i shaped opening between the upper and the beveled end of the short inner sole.

A counter having a depression to provide space for the outturned portion of the back stay is not claimed herein but forms the subject-matter of a divisional application Serial No. 870,141, filed November 3, 1914.

Having thus described the invention what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. In a stitch-down shoe, an outturned counter grooved along the line of the turn, the outturned margin of said counter being of a thickness substantially equal to the thick central portion of said counter.

2. In a stitch-down shoe, an outturned counter inside the heel portion of the upper, said counter being comparatively thin along the line of the turn and comparatively thick on each side of said turn.

3. In a stitch-down shoe having a short inner sole extending to the rear of the shank of said shoe, a counter having a comparatively thick outturned margin the edge of which forms substantially a continuation of the edge of the short inner sole.

l. As an article of manufacture, a counter having the face of its lower edge at right angles to its inner face and a narrow area of greater flexibility than the body of the counter extending substantially parallel to said lower edge and in proximity thereto.

5. As an article of manufacture, a counter having a square edge at its bottom, a beveled edge at its top and sides, and a portion of reduced thickness extending throughout its length.

6. As an article of manufacture, a. counter having a lower edge the thickness of which diminishes toward the ends thereof.

7. As an article of manufacture, a counter having a thick raised central portion of approximately the same outline as that of the counter, and having a lower edge of approximately the same thickness as that of the thickest portion of said central portion.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

KARL ENGEL.

Witnesses:

FRED W. Gunsonn, ARTHUR L. RUssnLL Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. C.

Images