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US1034857A - Welt-guide mechanism. - Google Patents

Welt-guide mechanism. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1034857A
US1034857A US62166411A US1911621664A US1034857A US 1034857 A US1034857 A US 1034857A US 62166411 A US62166411 A US 62166411A US 1911621664 A US1911621664 A US 1911621664A US 1034857 A US1034857 A US 1034857A
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welt
guide
shoe
frame
movement
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US62166411A
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John V Allen
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USM Ltd
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/06Welt sewing machines

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a welt guide mechanism for shoe sewing machines of the class employing a curved hook needle and used in sewing the upper and the welt to the insole in the manufacture of boots and shoes.
  • Shoe sewing machines of this class are ordinarily provided with a welt guide having a guide opening through which the welt passes, which is moved toward the shoe to present the welt in proper position relative to the insole, upper and needle during the formation of the stitch and is moved Meyer, No. 412,704 illustratesone type of machine of this class. It is essential in sewing the upper and the welt to the insole that the welt be accurately and securely held in position during the formation of the stitch in order to insure that the needle shall pass through the groove in the welt. It is also essential that the welt pass freely through the welt guide opening of the welt guide during the movement of the guide away from the shoe or during the feed movement of the shoe to avoid stretching the welt and to permit free manipulation of the shoe.
  • the guide consists of members arranged with the welt uiding opening between them and mounte so as to be capable of relative movement to contract and expand the welt guiding opening.
  • the object of-the present invention is to produce a welt guide mechanism .of simple construction for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines which is operated independently of the work to grip and hold the welt in the desired position during the formation of the stitch and to permit the welt to pass freely through the welt guiding olpening during the feed movement of the s we.
  • the invention comprises a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the guide to-' ward the shoe to actuate the guide to grip.
  • the welt guide 7 is mounted on the slide 8, moving in suitable guides in the frame.
  • the construction and arrangement. of the guide and the mechanism for locking and releasing the same are substantially as shown in the French and Meyer patent.
  • the slide is moved forwardly by'means of the spring 9 attached at one extremity to the slide and at the other to a' fixed point on the frame of the machine. Rearward movement of the slide is produced by the movement of a bell crank lever 10, operated by cam disk 11, one arm '12 of which lever is arranged to contact with 9. lug 13 on the slide as the arm moves rearwardly.
  • the slide 8 is rovided with a lug 14 arranged in front of the arm 12 of the lever 10 to insure forward movementof the slide.
  • the slide is moved forwardly or toward the shoe to resent the welt in proper position with re ation to the needle prior to the formation of the stitch and is moved rearwardly or away from the shoe during the feed movement of the shoe.
  • a eral construction 'dinarily known as the frame, and a thin metallic plate 16, ordinarily known as the shield, mounted on the frame and arranged with a welt uiding opening between the frame and shield.
  • the inner ed e of the welt is guided by an abutment 16 ormed on the frame and a age 16 adjustably mountorms a guide for the outer edge of the welt.
  • the welt uiding surfaces 17 and 18 of the frame and the shield are curved in order .to give the desired transverse curvature to the welt.
  • the frame 15 is provided with a shank 19 which is adapted to be secured to the welt guide 8 or other suitable guide carrying means of a sewing machine. struction and is strong and durable. It is to be understood, however, that the invention may be embodied in other forms of welt guides and that except as hereinafter defined by the claims, the invention is not limited to any specific structure or arrangement of the parts comprising the welt guide.
  • This welt guide is simple in conerably mounted for relative .movement to contract and expand the welt guiding opening to grip and release the welt.
  • the shield is preferably mounted so that it is movable toward and from the frame.
  • the shield is provided at its rear extremity with an arm 21 which is received in a suitable slot in the frame 15.
  • a pin 22 is passed through the arm 21 and engages the frame, which in constitutes-a pivot upon which the shiel is movable toward and from the frame.
  • this means comprises a rod 24 pivotally connected to an extension 25 on the arm 21 'of the shield 16.
  • This. rod passes through a perforation 26 in a fixed arm 27 extending upwardly from an angular bracket 28 secured in fixed position to the frame of the machine.
  • the shield is ..freely maintained by the spring' 30 in position away from the-frame so that the welt'guiding opening is in expanded condition until the guide reaches the limit of just before stop nut 29 forward movement when-the contactswiththe. stop arm 27.;
  • torward-movement of e operates to move the-shie d-- toward the frame to contract the welt-guiding openingand grip and hold the welt inproper position with relation to the needle during the formation of the stitch.
  • the initial movomentr'of the'guide operates through the sprin'g'30 to move the shield away from the frame to expand the welt guiding opening and permitthe welt to pass therthrough
  • the welt guiding opening ismaintained in expanded soondition during practically the entireforwardmnd rearward movements of the guide'and that 'thewelt is therefore permitted to-m'ove freely through the welt movement of'the shoe.
  • the welt guide mechanism above de scribed is simple in construction, certainand reliable in operation, and may be readily applied to shoe sewing machines of the class ordinarily used in sewin together a welt upper and insole. Since the operation of the mechanism is independent of the relative positions of the welt guide and the shoe, itmay beused in operating upon a great variety of work.
  • a welt guide mechanis hookneedle shoe sewing 'm'ac for curved ines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to more toward and from the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the guide toward the. shoe to actuate the guide to grip and hold the welt in proper position wit relation tothe needle, substantially: as described.
  • a welt 'uide mechanism. for 2 curved shoe sewing machines having, in combination, awelt guide arran move toward and from the shoe an com togripand hold the welt in proper position with relation to the needle, and means operated .by the move- .ment of the-guide away from the shoetoactuate saidmeohanism to release the welt,
  • a welt guide arrangedgtoi move toward andfrom the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the 'detoward and from the shoe to actuate t elguideto grip and releasethe welt, wbstantially' as described.
  • A. welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, 115
  • a welt guide arranged to move toward, d fromthe' shoe and comprising members arranged to form a welt guiding opening and mountedfor relative and expand the'welt movement to Y contract ed to.
  • a welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame and a shield, mounted on the frame for movement toward, and from the frame and arranged with a welt guiding opening between the shield and the frame, means operated by the movement of the guide toward and from the shoe to move the guide toward and from the frame to contract andexpand theavelt guiding opening, substantially as described.
  • a welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame, a shield pivotally mounted on the frame to move toward and from the frame, a rod connected with the shield, and a stop arranged to act 0 the rod as the guide is moved toward the s we to move the shield on its pivot toward the frame, substantially as described.
  • a 'welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having,
  • a welt guide arranged to i move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame, a shield pivotally mounted on the frame to move toward and from the lframe, and a spring arranged to ,act on the shield and operated by the movement of the guide away from the shoe to move the shield away from the frame, substantially as described.
  • a welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, nd means operated by the final movement 0 the guide toward the shoe to actuate'the guide to grip and hold the welt in proper position with. relation to. the needle, substantially as de scribed.
  • a welt'guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in 'combinatiom-a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising mechanism to grip and hold the weltin proper position willrrelation to the needle, and means operated by the initial movement of-the guid'e away from 'the shoe to actuate said mechanism to release th welt, substantially as described.
  • a welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, means operated by the final movement of the guide towar the shoe to actuate the guide to grip and ho d".
  • the welt in pro er-- position with relation to the needl an means operated by the initial move. at ofthe guide away from the shoe to actuate the guide to release the welt, and to maintain the guide in welt releasing condition until the guide again executes its final movement toward the shoe, substantially as described.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

J. V. ALLEN.
WELT GUIDE MECHANISM.
APPLICATION mum APB.17,1911.
1,034,857. Patented Aug. 6, 1912.
UNITED STATEBATENT OFFICE.
JOHN V. ALLEN, OF SOUTH WEY MOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS, A SSIGNO R TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.
WELT-GUIDE MECHANISM.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Aug. 6, 1912.
Application filed April 17, 1911. Serial No. 621,664.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that 1, JOHN V. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at South \Veymouth, in the county of Norfolk and State of lilassaclnisctts, have invented certain new and .useful Improvenu'nts in Volt-Guide Mechanisms; and I do hereby declare the following to he a full, clear, and
andhold the welt in the exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertuins to make and use the same.
This invention relates to a welt guide mechanism for shoe sewing machines of the class employing a curved hook needle and used in sewing the upper and the welt to the insole in the manufacture of boots and shoes.
Shoe sewing machines of this class are ordinarily provided with a welt guide having a guide opening through which the welt passes, which is moved toward the shoe to present the welt in proper position relative to the insole, upper and needle during the formation of the stitch and is moved Meyer, No. 412,704 illustratesone type of machine of this class. It is essential in sewing the upper and the welt to the insole that the welt be accurately and securely held in position during the formation of the stitch in order to insure that the needle shall pass through the groove in the welt. It is also essential that the welt pass freely through the welt guide opening of the welt guide during the movement of the guide away from the shoe or during the feed movement of the shoe to avoid stretching the welt and to permit free manipulation of the shoe. In one form of welt guide as heretofore constructed, the guide consists of members arranged with the welt uiding opening between them and mounte so as to be capable of relative movement to contract and expand the welt guiding opening.
When the guide is moved toward the shoe, relative movement of the members to contract, the welt guiding o .ening and grip d sired position is produced by contact of the guide with the shoe. When the'welt guide. is moved away from the shoe,
the members arepermitted to move relatively to expand the welt guiding opening and allow the welt to pass freely therethrough. A welt guide which is arranged to be operated by contact of tlie guide with the shoe to grip and'hold the welt in proper position with relation to the needle is unsatisfactory, since in operating upon certain kinds of work, the relation of the guide to the shoe is such that the guide does not contact with the shoe at any point in its movement. The use of such a welt guide therefore necessarily limited.
The object of-the present invention is to produce a welt guide mechanism .of simple construction for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines which is operated independently of the work to grip and hold the welt in the desired position during the formation of the stitch and to permit the welt to pass freely through the welt guiding olpening during the feed movement of the s we.
WViththe above object in View, the invention comprises a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the guide to-' ward the shoe to actuate the guide to grip.
by the movement of the guide away from the shoe to actuate the guide to release the welt and permit it to move freely during the feed movement of the shoe.
Further features of the invention reside in certain constructions, arrangements and combinations of parts, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following descri tion,
In the accompanying drawingsi ustrating theinvention in its preferred form ;Figure l is a side elevation of one type of shoe sewing machine with the welt guide mechanism a plied thereto; Fig. 2 is a plan view of e welt guide mechanism; Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig.2; Fi 4 I vention, the welt ed on the frame In Fig. 1 of the drawings, the preferred embodiment of the welt guide mechanism is shown applied to a sewing machine of the type illustrated in the patent to French and Meyer above referred to. In the machine illustrated, the sewing mechanism, comprising a curved hook needle 1, an awl 2, a looper 3, a thread arm 4, and a take-up lever 5, and the back gage 6 against which the shoe is held during the sewing operation, are constructed, arranged and operated substantially as in the French and Meyer patent.
The welt guide 7 is mounted on the slide 8, moving in suitable guides in the frame. The construction and arrangement. of the guide and the mechanism for locking and releasing the same are substantially as shown in the French and Meyer patent. The slide is moved forwardly by'means of the spring 9 attached at one extremity to the slide and at the other to a' fixed point on the frame of the machine. Rearward movement of the slide is produced by the movement of a bell crank lever 10, operated by cam disk 11, one arm '12 of which lever is arranged to contact with 9. lug 13 on the slide as the arm moves rearwardly. The slide 8 is rovided with a lug 14 arranged in front of the arm 12 of the lever 10 to insure forward movementof the slide. The slide is moved forwardly or toward the shoe to resent the welt in proper position with re ation to the needle prior to the formation of the stitch and is moved rearwardly or away from the shoe during the feed movement of the shoe.
In the illustrated embodiment of the inguide is the same in genand arrangement of parts as the welt guide common y employed in curved hook needle shoe sewin machines. The guide consists of a metallic lock 15, or-
eral construction 'dinarily known as the frame, and a thin metallic plate 16, ordinarily known as the shield, mounted on the frame and arranged with a welt uiding opening between the frame and shield.- The inner ed e of the welt is guided by an abutment 16 ormed on the frame and a age 16 adjustably mountorms a guide for the outer edge of the welt. The welt uiding surfaces 17 and 18 of the frame and the shield are curved in order .to give the desired transverse curvature to the welt. The frame 15 is provided with a shank 19 which is adapted to be secured to the welt guide 8 or other suitable guide carrying means of a sewing machine. struction and is strong and durable. It is to be understood, however, that the invention may be embodied in other forms of welt guides and that except as hereinafter defined by the claims, the invention is not limited to any specific structure or arrangement of the parts comprising the welt guide.
This welt guide is simple in conerably mounted for relative .movement to contract and expand the welt guiding opening to grip and release the welt. In order to provide for relative movement between the welt guiding members which, in the present embodiment of the invention, consist of the frame and the shield, the shield is preferably mounted so that it is movable toward and from the frame. To this end, in the construction shown, the shield is provided at its rear extremity with an arm 21 which is received in a suitable slot in the frame 15. A pin 22 is passed through the arm 21 and engages the frame, which in constitutes-a pivot upon which the shiel is movable toward and from the frame. The
upturned forward extremity of the shield extending in front of the frame is connected,
to the frame by means of a shouldered screw 23 passing through a slot in the shield and threaded into the frame, thereby permittin movement of the shield on its pivot towar and from the frame. When the shield is moved toward the frame, the welt guiding opening is contracted and the welt is gripped between the welt uiding surfaces of the frame and the shiel and between the abutment 16 and the Fig. 4. When the shield is moved away from the frame, the welt guidingopening is gage 16", as illustrated in expanded, as shown in Fig. 5, and the welt is permitted to pass freely therethrough: 14
In order that the and held in the desired position during the formation of the stitch, means operat by the movement of the guide toward t e shoe is the frame to contract the welt guiding opening and grip and hold the Welt in proper position with relation to the needle. In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, this means comprises a rod 24 pivotally connected to an extension 25 on the arm 21 'of the shield 16. This. rod passes through a perforation 26 in a fixed arm 27 extending upwardly from an angular bracket 28 secured in fixed position to the frame of the machine. A extremity said rod that it contacts with the arm 27 just before the welt guide reaches its limit of forward movement so that the arm 27' welt may be gripper? provided for moving theshield toward,
constitutes a stop acting on the rod 24. Thecontinued forward movement of the guide after the stop nut 29 contacts with the sto arm 27 operates to move the shield toward the frame to contract the welt guiding tipening. In order to move the shield away mm the frame upon rearward movement of the welt guide, a coil spring 30 surrounding the rod' 2.4 is interposed between the arm 27 and a shoulder 31 on the rod- The initial rearward movement of the guide operates through the spring 30 to move the shield away from the frame to expand the welt guide .agam
' wa'rdly or tow-ard the shoe, the shield is ..freely maintained by the spring' 30 in position away from the-frame so that the welt'guiding opening is in expanded condition until the guide reaches the limit of just before stop nut 29 forward movement when-the contactswiththe. stop arm 27.; The continued". torward-movement of e operates to move the-shie d-- toward the frame to contract the welt-guiding openingand grip and hold the welt inproper position with relation to the needle during the formation of the stitch. When the-.guide is moved rearwardly or' way from the shoe,
the initial movomentr'of the'guide operates through the sprin'g'30 to move the shield away from the frame to expand the welt guiding opening and permitthe welt to pass therthrough It is to be noted that the welt guiding opening ismaintained in expanded soondition during practically the entireforwardmnd rearward movements of the guide'and that 'thewelt is therefore permitted to-m'ove freely through the welt movement of'the shoe.
guide d movement-"o the guide and. during the feed In case-the relation of the-welt guide to the shoe is such that .the-guideoontaets with the shoe before the nut 29 engagfs with the arm 27, the spring 30 permits t e shield to be moved toward the frame bycontactwitl:
the shoe to contract the welt guiding opening and grip the welt.
The welt guide mechanism above de scribed is simple in construction, certainand reliable in operation, and may be readily applied to shoe sewing machines of the class ordinarily used in sewin together a welt upper and insole. Since the operation of the mechanism is independent of the relative positions of the welt guide and the shoe, itmay beused in operating upon a great variety of work.
lVhile it is preferred to struction and arrangement of employ the conpartsw shown .and described it will be understood that .'-this construction and arrangement is not essential except as far as specified in the claims, and may be modified without departing from the broader features of the inventionl Having explained the nature and object e movement-of the guide for-- hook needle prising. mechanism guide them "the forward and rearward of the invention and having specifically described the preferred embodiment thereof, what is claimed is:
1. A welt guide mechanis hookneedle shoe sewing 'm'ac for curved ines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to more toward and from the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the guide toward the. shoe to actuate the guide to grip and hold the welt in proper position wit relation tothe needle, substantially: as described. A K 2. A welt 'uide mechanism. for 2 curved shoe sewing machines having, in combination, awelt guide arran move toward and from the shoe an com togripand hold the welt in proper position with relation to the needle, and means operated .by the move- .ment of the-guide away from the shoetoactuate saidmeohanism to release the welt,
substantially as described.
3; A welt-guide mechanism ion-curved hook needle shoe sewing machineshaving,
in combination, a welt guide arrangedgtoi move toward andfrom the shoe, and means operated by the movement of the 'detoward and from the shoe to actuate t elguideto grip and releasethe welt, wbstantially' as described.
v 4. A welt g'uide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines'having, in combination, a welt guide arranged-to move toward and from the shoeand com-- prising members-arranged to form' a weltguiding opening and mounted for movement with relation to each other to contract and :expand the welt guiding opening, means operated by the movement of the guide toward the shoe'to move one'of saidmembers 5 relatively to the other to contract the welt guiding opening and hold the welt in proper position with relation-to the nEdle, substantially as described.
5.- Awelt ,guide mechani'sni 'forlcurved o hook needle shoe sewing machines. having, in combination, awelt guide arran ed to move toward and thin the shoean comprising members arringed to form a welt guiding ment' with relation to each other to contract and expand thiw'elt guiding opening, and mechanism operated by the movement of the guide away Ji om the shoe to move one of said members elatively to theother to expand the welt ghiding opening and allow the welt to pass freely therethrough, substantially as described.
6. A. welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, 115
in combination-a welt guide arranged to move toward, d fromthe' shoe and comprising members arranged to form a welt guiding opening and mountedfor relative and expand the'welt movement to Y contract ed to. 0
opening and mounted for move- 115 guiding opening between them mounted for relative movement to contract and expand said opening, and mechanism operated by the movement of the guide toward the shoe to move'the shield relatively to the frame to contract the opening, substantially as de;
scribed.
8. A welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame and a shield, mounted on the frame for movement toward, and from the frame and arranged with a welt guiding opening between the shield and the frame, means operated by the movement of the guide toward and from the shoe to move the guide toward and from the frame to contract andexpand theavelt guiding opening, substantially as described.
9. A welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame, a shield pivotally mounted on the frame to move toward and from the frame, a rod connected with the shield, and a stop arranged to act 0 the rod as the guide is moved toward the s we to move the shield on its pivot toward the frame, substantially as described.
10. A 'welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having,
in combination, a welt guide arranged to i move toward and from the shoe and comprising a frame, a shield pivotally mounted on the frame to move toward and from the lframe, and a spring arranged to ,act on the shield and operated by the movement of the guide away from the shoe to move the shield away from the frame, substantially as described.
11. A welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, nd means operated by the final movement 0 the guide toward the shoe to actuate'the guide to grip and hold the welt in proper position with. relation to. the needle, substantially as de scribed. V
12. A welt'guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in 'combinatiom-a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe and comprising mechanism to grip and hold the weltin proper position willrrelation to the needle, and means operated by the initial movement of-the guid'e away from 'the shoe to actuate said mechanism to release th welt, substantially as described.
13. A welt guide mechanism for curved hook needle shoe sewing machines having, in combination, a welt guide arranged to move toward and from the shoe, means operated by the final movement of the guide towar the shoe to actuate the guide to grip and ho d". the welt in pro er-- position with relation to the needl an means operated by the initial move. at ofthe guide away from the shoe to actuate the guide to release the welt, and to maintain the guide in welt releasing condition until the guide again executes its final movement toward the shoe, substantially as described.
JOHN V. ALLEN.
\Vitnesses:
J AMES R. Honmsn,
ELIZABETH C. COUPE.
US62166411A 1911-04-17 1911-04-17 Welt-guide mechanism. Expired - Lifetime US1034857A (en)

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