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US1030774A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1030774A
US1030774A US63018797A US1897630187A US1030774A US 1030774 A US1030774 A US 1030774A US 63018797 A US63018797 A US 63018797A US 1897630187 A US1897630187 A US 1897630187A US 1030774 A US1030774 A US 1030774A
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United States
Prior art keywords
needle
thread
shuttle
guide
machine
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US63018797A
Inventor
Francis Joseph Freese
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USM Ltd
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Original Assignee
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by United Shoe Machinery Co AB filed Critical United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority to US63018797A priority Critical patent/US1030774A/en
Priority to US63160A priority patent/US1029923A/en
Priority to US63159A priority patent/US1029922A/en
Priority to US63158A priority patent/US1029921A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US1030774A publication Critical patent/US1030774A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/04Shoe sewing machines for lock-stitch work

Definitions

  • the object of the invention is to reorganize and improve curved needle, wax-thread, lock stitch sewing machines, and the invention consists in the devices and combinations of devices hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.
  • Figure 1 is a side elevation of the machine;
  • Fig. 2 is a front elevation. of the head of the machine;
  • Fig. 3 is a sectional side elevation taken on the line Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 3 illustrates a detail of construction hereinafter referred to;
  • Fig. 4c is a view showing the needle guide apart from the machine;
  • Fig. 5 is a view of the end of the looper lever taken on the line Fig. 3;
  • Fig. 6 is a sectional elevation taken on the line 55 Fig. 2;
  • Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged side elevations showing the relative positions of the channel guide, needle looper and thread guide in different positions with relation to each. other and the work;
  • FIG. 9 is an enlarged front elevation of the needle looper and thread guide, showin g their positions with relation to the work at the time the needle is advanced through the work and after the looper has laid the thread in the hook of the needle.
  • Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13 illustrate the operation ofthe needle and looper in forming a stitch in the materials.
  • Fig. 1e is'a front elevation of the looper cam;
  • Figs. 15 and 16 are front and side elevations of the take-up lever and associated parts;
  • Fig. 17 is a section taken on line 99 Fig. 20 and showing a longitudinal sectional plan of the shuttle, bobbin Specification of Letters Patent.
  • Fig. 18, 19 and 21 show the bobbin case and shuttle in different positions illustrating the mode of passing the needle thread over the bobbin case.
  • Fig. 20 is a front elevation of the shuttle, bobbin case and shuttle race showing the guide arm for bobbin case thrown back to permit the removal and replacement of the bobbin case.
  • Fig. 22 is a sectional side elevation taken on line 4.4t Fig. 2 cutting through the shuttle, bobbin case and associated parts in a vertical plane.
  • Fig. 23 is a plan view of the welt guide; Figs. 24, 25 and 26 illustrate the welt guide in different positions with relation to the needle; Figs. 27, 28 and 29 illustrate respectively the main portion, the thickness gage and edge gage of the welt guide; Fig.
  • FIG. 30 is a sectional side elevation taken on line 3-3 Fig. 2 omitting parts for the sake of clearness in illustrating the looper and its actuating mechanism;
  • Fig. 31 is a detail view of the needle segment;
  • Fig. 32 is a rear elevation of the tension device;
  • Fig. 33 is a sectional side elevation on line 2222 .
  • Fig. 34 is a vertical sectional elevation of the tension device taken on line 23c3 Fig. 33;
  • Fig. 35 is a section. on line 24.-24 Fig. 34 showing the steam connections for the tension device in section and
  • Fig. 36 is a detail of the needle guide and needle hereinafter referred to.
  • the head of the machine is mounted upon a suitable column in the usual way.
  • the base 7) of the head is secured to the top column 7) and is provided with uprights or standards at its ends which afford bearings b for the main shaft 0 of the machine.
  • This base is also provided with portions 6 and 6 extending upwardly therefrom which support the various operative parts of the machine, and, together with the base and standards. constitute the frame of the machine.
  • the needle 73 is mounted upon the needle segment 70 in the usual way.
  • the needle segment is actuated by the needle lever is carrying a segmental gear which engages the segmental pinion of the needle segment in the usual manner except that the segmental gear of the needle lever is made with a broad face so that, irrespective of lateral movements of the needle, the segmental gear and pinion remain in engagement with each other.
  • the needle lever is pivoted upon a stationary part of the frame of the machine and is provided with a stud which carries a cam roll which engages the needle cam path in the cam disk F mounted on the main shaft 0 of the machine.
  • the needle segment 76 is mounted on the needle stud 7t secured by a set screw k in a depending portion of the'feed slide so that the needle partakes of the feed movements of the feed slide, that is, sothat the needle is moved laterally to effect the feed of the work after it has been caused to penetrate the materials.
  • the needle guide A is mounted on the needle stud 76 and provided with a pin 7a which is adapted to engage a stop surface 70 on the head of the needle stud KI -to limit the forward motion of the needle guide.
  • the needle guide is also provided wit-h a stop 70 adapted to engage the stop pin 70 on the needle segment, being pulled thereagainst by a spring so that the needle guide partakes of the .forward movement of the needle until it is arrested by the engagement of the pin s with the stop surface 70.
  • the depending portion 7a of the needle guide has an off-set end which embraces the needle, and through which the needle is adapted to slide. The side of the guide portion of the needle guide is notched 'at 70 for the pur pose of engaging the thread to form slack thread therein to be presented to the shuttle hook.
  • the above described arrangement and the shape of the needle cam path are such that the needle first advances through the materials andthen stands fast while the feed slide moves over to feed the work, then the thread is laid in the hook of the needle by the looper and the needle is retracted to draw the loop of thread through the materials, the needle then again advances slightly to form slack thread to receive the shuttle hook and then retracts to its limit.
  • the cooperative relation of the needle to the looper and shuttle will be set forth more fully in the description of those parts.
  • the channel guide is secured to the lower end of the channel guide lever f which is pivotally mounted at f upon the depending portion of the feed slide in a recess shown enlarged in Fig.3?
  • a stud which carries a cam roll adapted to engage the cam surface f of the cam disk F.
  • the thread guide f is mounted upon the channel guide in proximity to the lower end thereof which guides the needle thread in its passage to the needle.
  • the movements of the thread guide owing to the oscillations of the channel guide are so slight that its'changes in position with relation to the needle may be neglected.
  • the looper g is mounted in the lower end of the looper lever 9 supported upon the swivel stud g pivoted upon a stationary part of the machine.
  • the upper end of the looper lever carries a stud which bears a conical cam roll which engages the cam path 7L in the cam disk
  • the looper lever is slotted at the point where it is supported upon the swivel stud 9 as shown in Figs. 3 and 30, and a portion of the cam path It is flattened as seen at g in Fig. 8, and as also seen in Fig. 30, which flattening provides for the forward and back movements of the looper, while the lateral motions of the looper are secured by the lateral deflections of the cam path h above referred to.
  • An auxiliary looper lever 9 is provided. It is pivoted upon a stationary part of the machine and has its forward end projected under a portion of the looper lever as shown in Figs. 3 and 30, and has its rear end provided with a stud carrying a cam roll which engages a cam path S in the side of the cam disk D.
  • a spring 9 serves to hold the inner end of the looper lever g in contact with its cam path. The posit-ion of the thread guide J, the looper and the shape of the cam path it are such that when the needle is advanced through the materials, as shown in Fig. 10, the needle thread extending fro-m the last needle hole to the thread guide f lies over the needle.
  • the looper 9 stands in the" position indicated in full line in Fig. 10. Then it moves to the position indicated in Fig. 11,
  • the needle then begins its retracting movement, the looper following it during the first part of its retracting movement, as indicated in Fig. 12, thereby giving up thread to the needle upon the stitch side of the needle.
  • the looper disengages itself from the thread and moves back to its original position ,as illustrated in Fig. 13.
  • the movement of the looper which it is to be observed, has some of the functions of the thread arm or thread finger of the wellknown Goodyear Rapid Stitcher, gives up thread to the needle upon one side thereof while the take-up, as hereinafter described, gives up thread to the needle upon the other side thereof.
  • the take-up which forms the s'ubjectmatter of a divisional application filed June 4, 1901, Serial No. 63,158, and is not herein claimed as a part of the present invention, consists generally of a lever 0 pivoted at 0 upon a stationary part of the machine. Upon the rear end of the take-up lever '0 is mounted a stud which carries a cam roll which engages a cam path 0 in the cam disk 0 mounted upon the main shaft 0 of the machine. In connection with the takeup is employed a thread clamp which is mounted upon the take-up lever.
  • the slide 0 Upon the side of the take-up lever is mounted the slide 0 which is provided with a slot through which screws are passed so that the said slide may be moved longitudinally upon the side of the take-up lever.
  • This slide 0 carries upon its upper end a thread truck 0
  • the upper end of the take-up lever 0 carries a thread clamp 0 which consists of a small piece of metal let into a groove in the projection upon the upper end of the takeup lever and is held in place by a screw 0 an eccentric headed screw 0 is provided by which the position of the thread clamp 0 may be adjusted, after which it will be secured in place by the screw 0.
  • a cam 0 is mounted upon the stationary stud 0 which forms the pivot for the take-up lever which cam engages the end of the slide 0
  • the shape of the cam path 0 and the cam 0 are such that when the take-up begins to rise, the end of the slide 0 is pressed upon. by the cam 0 and forced outwardly so as to press the thread running over the thread truck 0 against the thread clamp 0 so as to clamp and hold the same from movement over said thread truck, the further upward movement of the take-up. the thread being clamped and held clamped in the manner described, pulls upon the needle thread running thereover and pulls it into the work.
  • the shuttle consists of a shuttle disk 01 provided with the hook or point a and having a rib a which engages the shuttle race a, the shuttle being held in place in the race by a plate a
  • the shuttle is oscillated by means of shuttle driver 11 which carries upon its forward end the disk n from which project forward a pin n which is adapted to enter the space under the hook of the shuttle and a projection n which is adapted to engage a portion of the shuttle at a distance from the pin n
  • These two projections 12 and n afford the means for oscillating the shuttle in the shuttle race.
  • the shuttle driver n consists of a sleeve mounted in a bearing 11 in the frame of the machine, and carrying upon its rear end a pinion n which is engaged by a rack mounted upon a shuttle driving slide 01, which is provided upon its upper end with a fork n which embraces the main shaft (1 of the machine and by which it is guided in its reciprocating movements.
  • the said shuttle driving slide at is provided with a stud which carries a cam roll, which engages a cam path a in one side of the cam disk M mounted upon the main shaft 6 of the machine between the cam disk 0 and the cam disk F.
  • cam path a The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path a are such that the shuttle is actuated, when the needle has retracted and moved forward slightly to open a loop of thread to receive the shuttle, to move forward from the position illustrated in Fig. 18 to the position illustrated in Fig.
  • the shuttle is retracted slightly to slacken the loop of thread carried by it for a purpose which will be presently described in connection with the description of the bobbin case carried by the shuttle, and then the shuttle is again ad vanced a short distance in order to cast off the loop of thread, the bobbin case having been pushed through the shuttle in the meanwhile to disengage the loop of thread carried thereby, and then the shuttle is again retracted and stands still during the operation of the take-up and until the needle has again advanced and again retracted and drawn another loop of thread through the materials to be interlocked with the shuttle thread.
  • the shuttle is provided with an eccentric opening which is adapted to receive a bobbin case of a thickness considerably greater than the thickness of the shuttle which therefore is much more capacious than the ordinary bobbin case.
  • the bobbin case consists of two cups, a larger m and a smaller m the latter of which fits closely within the former, and which latter is provided with openings for the thread, the thread emerging through the opening m thence passing again into the bobbin case through the opening m and finally passing out through the opening an in a manner clearly illustrated in Fig. 2
  • the two members of the bobbin case are provided upon their opposite sides with ribs by means of which the bobbin case is held from oscillatory rotation with the shuttle although it has an oscillatory movement of revolution about the axis of the shuttle.
  • the member at is provided upon its rear surface with a projection m which is adapted to engage a space between two projections m on a slide on held in a clove tail groove in the front end of the slide m
  • the other bobbin case member m is provided upon its front side with two projections m which are adapted to receive between them the projection an which is carried by the slide 011 secured in a dovetail groove in the bobbin case holder m piv otally mounted at 111, upon the front end of the slide M
  • the two slides m and m are secured together in the rear of the bearing n and are adapted to be actuated by a bell-crank lever m pivoted at m upon a portion of the frame of the machine, of which its depending arm is provided with a slot which engages a pin m in the slide m and of which the forwardly projecting arm carries a stud supporting a cam roll which engages acam path on in the side of the cam disk M.
  • the slides m and m are reciprocated to move the bobbin case forward and back through the aperture in the shuttle.
  • the position of the projections upon the bobbin case and the slides are such that the projections upon the one side thereof will engage before the projections upon the other side thereof have disengaged. This serves to hold the bobbin case at all times from oscillatory motion.
  • the projection m which engages the recess between the projection m of the bobbin case is adapted to press upon the shuttle thread during the time the take-up is acting, and that, therefore, such construction affords a means of periodically increasing and decreasing the tension upon the shuttle thread, increasing it during the time the takeup is acting so that the position of the lock in the materials is accurately secured and so that the tension upon the shuttle thread is decreased during the time of its retracting movement from the work and while thread is being drawn from the bobbin case.
  • the above described arrangement and the shape of the cam paths referred to are such that after the needle has retracted drawing back its loop of thread and again slightly advanced to buckle the thread drawn back into the loop as shown in Fig. 18, the shuttle begins its advancing movement.
  • the shuttle hook enters the loop of 'thread opened by the needle and thread guide as shown in Fig. 18; it then advances carrying the loop of thread taken from the needle around the bobbin case into the position indicated in Fig. 19, the forward side of the loop of the thread falling down in front of the bobbin case and passing between the disengaged front projections which control the bobbin case, then after the shuttle has retracted slightly to loosen the loop of thread the bobbin case is moved forward to push it forward in the aperture in the shuttle into the position indicated in Fig.
  • the feed slide d is mounted in the usual guides projected from the frame of the machine and actuated by the feed lever d which is pivoted at its lower end upon a stationary part of the machine and carries upon its upper end a stud bearing a cam roll which engages a cam path (Z in the cam disk D.
  • the usual means for adjusting the stroke of the feed slide are provided for regulating the length of the stitch.
  • the welt guide is mounted upon the forward end of the welt guide slide 6 which is adapted to be actuated by the welt.
  • guide lever e pivotedat 6 upon a stationary part of the machine and provided upon its upper end with a stud carrying a cam roll which engages the cam path 0 in the cam disk F.
  • the connections between the welt guide lever and the welt guide slide consist of a ratchet 6 which is adapted to be engaged by a pawl e pivoted upon the lower end of the welt guide lever and "normally pressed downward in the direction to cause its toothed end to engage the ratchet by means of a spring 6
  • a stop 6 rigidly secured to the lower end of the welt guide lever serves to lift the pawl 6 out of engagement with the teeth of the said ratchet at times when the lower end of the welt guide lever is swung back. At such times, the lower end of the welt guide lever engages an adjustable stop 6 secured upon the side of the welt guide slide and positively retracts it.
  • a spring 6" is supported in two spring cups, the one on the lower end of the welt guide lever and the other mounted upon the side of the welt guide slide in such position that when the lower end of the welt guide lever moves forward, it acts to press the welt guide slide forward with yielding pressure until the pawl 6 comes into engagement with the teeth of the ratchet 0 when it is moved forward positively so that during the first part of the forward motion of the welt guide slide, the welt guide is moved forward under'yielding pressure, while during the latter part of the forward motion thereof the said slide is moved forward positively to give a final nip to hold the welt guide firmly against the shoe.
  • the welt guide consists of three parts, the main portion 6, a thickness gage e and an edge gage e which are assembled in the positions shown in Figs. 23, 24, 25 and 26.
  • the shank of the main portion 6' is laterally ofi-set from the body of the guide and a notch e is provided therein which affords clearance for the needle segment.
  • This offset portion 6 is provided with a segmental cylindrical surface which fits a corresponding segmental cylindrical surface upon the front end of the welt guide slide.
  • a bolt is provided for securing the main portion to the forward end of the welt guide slide,
  • Figs. 24-, 25 and 26 to permit the welt guide to be turned to different angular positions as shown in these figures.
  • the edge gage e is laid upon the main portion 6, its forward edge beveled so as to afford a convenient guide for the edge of the welt, and the thickness gage is laid thereon.
  • the shanks of these two gages are slotted as shown and a cap bolt serves to secure them to the main portion a.
  • the edge gage 6 may be adjusted forward and back so as to correctly guide welts of various widths to the shoe being sewed, and the thickness gage may be adjusted forward and back to compensate for variations in thickness of the welt, the forward end of the thickness gage being bent upwardly as shown, and sliding under a rearward projection upon the upper forward end of the main portion. parts may thus be varied in position to adapt them to correctly guide the welt to the shoe without distortion. While the welt guide above described forms no part of the present invention, it is described herein for the purpose of setting forth a complete description of the machine in which the invention is preferably embodied. This welt guide forms the subject matter of a divisional application, Serial No. 63,159, filed June 4, 1901.
  • the machine is provided at its rear with a tension device which consists of a thread truck 79 mounted upon a stud p which has one end screwed into the left hand fork of a bracket p projected rearwardly from the base 6 of the machine.
  • a tension device which consists of a thread truck 79 mounted upon a stud p which has one end screwed into the left hand fork of a bracket p projected rearwardly from the base 6 of the machine.
  • friction washers one of which is interposed between the said thread truck and the side of the fork 79 above referred to, and the other of which is interposed between the other side of the thread truck and the friction disk 9
  • a second disk 29 similar to the disk 12 is mounted upon said stud p and a stud p screwed into the first disk, projects into a corresponding hole in the second disk. This maintains the two disks p and 79 in correct position with relation to each other.
  • the disk p is subjected to the pressure of a tension spring 79 which bears against it upon one end and against an adjusting nut p upon the other side which is screwed upon the stud 39 so that by turning the adjusting nut, the tension may be regulated.
  • a lock nut 79 is provided for locking the adjusting nut in adjusted position.
  • the end of the stud p which is screwed into the arm of the bracket is hollow and a steam pipe leads thereto for heating it and the thread truck.
  • the wedge 29 is provided with a depending bar which is encircled by a spring which normally tends to force the said wedge upward into the position illustrated in Fig. 32, but the lower end of the said bar is provided with a projection adapted to engage a slot in a bellcrank lever, which is adapted to be actuated by a foot treadle, not shown, which foot treadle also serves to operate the clutch which throws the power on and off for operating the machine.
  • the other arm 297 of the fork bracket above referred to is provided with an enlarged opening adapted to receive the hub of the adjusting nut p 7 and serves to steady and support the device.
  • This tension device forms no feature of the present invention, but is described herein merely for the purpose of describing the complete machine in which the invention is preferably embodied.
  • the device forms the subject of a divisional application, Serial No. 63,160, filed June 4, 1901, for an improvement in sewing machines.
  • the machine is provided with a wax pot adapted to receive a whole cake of wax,
  • the present invention is not limited to the illustrated embodiment thereof, but may be embodied in other and different forms without departure therefrom.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hooked needle, a needle guide embracing the needle, a shuttle, shuttle actuating mechanism, and means for actuating the needle in timed relation to the movements of the shuttle to cause the needle after having drawn a loop of thread through the materials to advance slightly so as to buckle the loop of thread to receive the hook of the shuttle, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in com bination, a curved hooked needle, a stationary thread guide located alongside of and in advance of the needle, a looper normally located upon the opposite side of the needle from the thread guide, and means for actuating the looper to move it into engagement with the thread bet-ween the work and the needle and to move it from its normal position to a position between the needle and the thread guide, to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, substantially as described.
  • a shuttle consisting of a solid disk formed with an opening eccentric thereof and having a portion of its periphery cut away to form a hook; a bobbin case supported by the wall of said eccentric opening means for actuating said disk, means for retaining said bobbin case against rotation and means for reciprocating said bobbin case through said eccentric opening substantially as clescribed and for the purpose set forth.
  • a sewing machine having, in combination, a curved needle having a hook upon its side, a thread guide located on the side of the needle opposite the hook, a looper movable first from a point. on the hook side of the needle to a point on the opposite side. of the. needle to lay the thread in the hook of the needle and measure oil thread and thereafter toward the work to give up thread to the retracting needle, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
  • a lock-stitch, waX-thread, shoe-sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a take-up, a shuttle hook operating in a fixed plane, a thread case greater in thickness than the hook and movable from a position with one of its ends lying in the plane of one side of the hook to a position with its other end lying in the plane of the other side of the hook, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
  • a sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a take-up, a discoidal shuttle hook, a thread-case, means for moving the hook andcase with relation v to each other so that the two sides of the loop of thread drawn out by the hook may pass the two ends of the case successively, substantially as described.
  • a sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle having a hook on one side, a thread guide located on the opposite side of the needle from the hook, a looper normally located on the hook side of the needle movable from its normal position into engagement with the standing thread andthence to the thread guide side of the needle to lay the, thread in the hook' of the needle and to form a bight of thread and back again to give up thread to the retreating needle, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
  • a shoe sewing machine having, in com bination, a curved hook needle, a needle guide embracing the needle, a shuttle, shuttle-actuating mechanism, and means for actuating the needle guide in timed relation to the movements of the shuttle to cause the' needle guide, after the needle has drawn a loop of thread through the materials, to advance slightly so as to engage and buckle the loop to receive the hook of the shuttle, substantially as described.
  • a sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a discoidal shuttle, means for actuating the shuttle to draw out and pass through the needle loop, a thread case mounted in the shuttle, and means for moving the thread case axially of the shuttle while the shuttle is passing through the needle loop, substantially as described.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 1114.31.31, 1897.
Hmeooeo COLUMBIA PL'ANOGRA'PH c0., WASHINGTON, r). c.
Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
gmoawto'c F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION IEILBD MAR. 31, 1997.
1,030,774. Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHIFETSSHEET 2.
.E m N Hi 0 l w 8* Q B s N w n? Y J a a N a g 4 Q x H T e I 1:8 T
vwautoi COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH C0-. WASHINGTON. D. c.
I F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED MAR. 31, 1897.
9 SHEETS-SHEET 3.
COLUMBIA PLANOORAPH C0, WASHINGTON, n. c
Patented June 25, I912.
F. J. FREESE. SEWING MACHINE.
APPLIOATION FILED MAR. 31, 1897.
1,030,774. Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHEBTS-SHBBT 4.
COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH 0. WASHINGTON. D. :4
F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31, 1897.
Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHEETS-SHEET 6.
COLUMBIA PLANpauAPu RIO-,WASHINGTON. n. c.
F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. a1[ 1897.
1,030,774. Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHEETS-SHEET 6.
cnLuMmA PLANOGRAPH (30.. WASHINGTON, n. c.
P. J. FREESE. v SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31, 1897.
1,030,774. Patented June 25, 1912.
9 8HEETS-SHEET 7.
lam/W306 'tmeooao COLUMBIA PLANDORAI'H 60.. WASHINGTON, D. C.
F. J. FREESE.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31, 1897.
Patented June 25, 1912.
9 SHEETS-SHEET 8.
COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH co., WASHINGTON ENTTED STATESEATENT @FFTCE.
FRANCIS JOSEPH FREESE, OF LOWELL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.
SEWING-MACHINE.
To all whom 2'25 may concern:
Be it known that I, FRANCIS Josnrrr Fnnnsn, of Lowell, in the county of Middlesex and State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America, but temporarily illustrated in the drawings is designed for use as an inseam sewing machine.
The object of the invention is to reorganize and improve curved needle, wax-thread, lock stitch sewing machines, and the invention consists in the devices and combinations of devices hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.
In the accompanying drawings illustrating the preferred form of the invention Figure 1 is a side elevation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a front elevation. of the head of the machine; Fig. 3 is a sectional side elevation taken on the line Fig. 2; Fig. 3 illustrates a detail of construction hereinafter referred to; Fig. 4c is a view showing the needle guide apart from the machine; Fig. 5 is a view of the end of the looper lever taken on the line Fig. 3; Fig. 6 is a sectional elevation taken on the line 55 Fig. 2; Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged side elevations showing the relative positions of the channel guide, needle looper and thread guide in different positions with relation to each. other and the work; Fig. 9 is an enlarged front elevation of the needle looper and thread guide, showin g their positions with relation to the work at the time the needle is advanced through the work and after the looper has laid the thread in the hook of the needle. Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13 illustrate the operation ofthe needle and looper in forming a stitch in the materials. Fig. 1e is'a front elevation of the looper cam; Figs. 15 and 16 are front and side elevations of the take-up lever and associated parts; Fig. 17 is a section taken on line 99 Fig. 20 and showing a longitudinal sectional plan of the shuttle, bobbin Specification of Letters Patent.
Application filed March 31, 1897.
Patented June 25, 1912.
Serial No. 630,187.
case and associated parts. Figs. 18, 19 and 21 show the bobbin case and shuttle in different positions illustrating the mode of passing the needle thread over the bobbin case. Fig. 20 is a front elevation of the shuttle, bobbin case and shuttle race showing the guide arm for bobbin case thrown back to permit the removal and replacement of the bobbin case. Fig. 22 is a sectional side elevation taken on line 4.4t Fig. 2 cutting through the shuttle, bobbin case and associated parts in a vertical plane. Fig. 23 is a plan view of the welt guide; Figs. 24, 25 and 26 illustrate the welt guide in different positions with relation to the needle; Figs. 27, 28 and 29 illustrate respectively the main portion, the thickness gage and edge gage of the welt guide; Fig. 30 is a sectional side elevation taken on line 3-3 Fig. 2 omitting parts for the sake of clearness in illustrating the looper and its actuating mechanism; Fig. 31 is a detail view of the needle segment; Fig. 32 is a rear elevation of the tension device; Fig. 33 is a sectional side elevation on line 2222 .Fig. 32; Fig. 34: is a vertical sectional elevation of the tension device taken on line 23c3 Fig. 33; Fig. 35 is a section. on line 24.-24 Fig. 34 showing the steam connections for the tension device in section and Fig. 36 is a detail of the needle guide and needle hereinafter referred to.
The head of the machine is mounted upon a suitable column in the usual way. The base 7) of the head is secured to the top column 7) and is provided with uprights or standards at its ends which afford bearings b for the main shaft 0 of the machine. This base is also provided with portions 6 and 6 extending upwardly therefrom which support the various operative parts of the machine, and, together with the base and standards. constitute the frame of the machine.
The needle 73 is mounted upon the needle segment 70 in the usual way. The needle segment is actuated by the needle lever is carrying a segmental gear which engages the segmental pinion of the needle segment in the usual manner except that the segmental gear of the needle lever is made with a broad face so that, irrespective of lateral movements of the needle, the segmental gear and pinion remain in engagement with each other. The needle lever is pivoted upon a stationary part of the frame of the machine and is provided with a stud which carries a cam roll which engages the needle cam path in the cam disk F mounted on the main shaft 0 of the machine. The needle segment 76 is mounted on the needle stud 7t secured by a set screw k in a depending portion of the'feed slide so that the needle partakes of the feed movements of the feed slide, that is, sothat the needle is moved laterally to effect the feed of the work after it has been caused to penetrate the materials. The needle guide A is mounted on the needle stud 76 and provided with a pin 7a which is adapted to engage a stop surface 70 on the head of the needle stud KI -to limit the forward motion of the needle guide. The needle guide is also provided wit-h a stop 70 adapted to engage the stop pin 70 on the needle segment, being pulled thereagainst by a spring so that the needle guide partakes of the .forward movement of the needle until it is arrested by the engagement of the pin s with the stop surface 70. The depending portion 7a of the needle guide has an off-set end which embraces the needle, and through which the needle is adapted to slide. The side of the guide portion of the needle guide is notched 'at 70 for the pur pose of engaging the thread to form slack thread therein to be presented to the shuttle hook. The above described arrangement and the shape of the needle cam path are such that the needle first advances through the materials andthen stands fast while the feed slide moves over to feed the work, then the thread is laid in the hook of the needle by the looper and the needle is retracted to draw the loop of thread through the materials, the needle then again advances slightly to form slack thread to receive the shuttle hook and then retracts to its limit. The cooperative relation of the needle to the looper and shuttle will be set forth more fully in the description of those parts.
The channel guide is secured to the lower end of the channel guide lever f which is pivotally mounted at f upon the depending portion of the feed slide in a recess shown enlarged in Fig.3? Upon the rear end of the channel guide lever is mounted a stud which carries a cam roll adapted to engage the cam surface f of the cam disk F. The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam surface f are such that after the back'feed the channel guide is moved forward to engage the channel of the insole and held forward in engagement with the channel during the feed and then released slightly to disengage itself from thechannel during the back feed when it is again moved forward to engage the channel for the next feed movement.
The thread guide f is mounted upon the channel guide in proximity to the lower end thereof which guides the needle thread in its passage to the needle. The movements of the thread guide owing to the oscillations of the channel guide are so slight that its'changes in position with relation to the needle may be neglected.
The looper g is mounted in the lower end of the looper lever 9 supported upon the swivel stud g pivoted upon a stationary part of the machine. The upper end of the looper lever carries a stud which bears a conical cam roll which engages the cam path 7L in the cam disk The looper lever is slotted at the point where it is supported upon the swivel stud 9 as shown in Figs. 3 and 30, and a portion of the cam path It is flattened as seen at g in Fig. 8, and as also seen in Fig. 30, which flattening provides for the forward and back movements of the looper, while the lateral motions of the looper are secured by the lateral deflections of the cam path h above referred to. An auxiliary looper lever 9 is provided. It is pivoted upon a stationary part of the machine and has its forward end projected under a portion of the looper lever as shown in Figs. 3 and 30, and has its rear end provided with a stud carrying a cam roll which engages a cam path S in the side of the cam disk D. A spring 9 serves to hold the inner end of the looper lever g in contact with its cam path. The posit-ion of the thread guide J, the looper and the shape of the cam path it are such that when the needle is advanced through the materials, as shown in Fig. 10, the needle thread extending fro-m the last needle hole to the thread guide f lies over the needle. The looper 9 stands in the" position indicated in full line in Fig. 10. Then it moves to the position indicated in Fig. 11,
engaging the needle thread and drawing a bight thereof under the needle and laying it in the throat of the needle. The needle then begins its retracting movement, the looper following it during the first part of its retracting movement, as indicated in Fig. 12, thereby giving up thread to the needle upon the stitch side of the needle. At about the time the throat of the needle enters the materials, the looper disengages itself from the thread and moves back to its original position ,as illustrated in Fig. 13. The movement of the looper, which it is to be observed, has some of the functions of the thread arm or thread finger of the wellknown Goodyear Rapid Stitcher, gives up thread to the needle upon one side thereof while the take-up, as hereinafter described, gives up thread to the needle upon the other side thereof.
The take-up, which forms the s'ubjectmatter of a divisional application filed June 4, 1901, Serial No. 63,158, and is not herein claimed as a part of the present invention, consists generally of a lever 0 pivoted at 0 upon a stationary part of the machine. Upon the rear end of the take-up lever '0 is mounted a stud which carries a cam roll which engages a cam path 0 in the cam disk 0 mounted upon the main shaft 0 of the machine. In connection with the takeup is employed a thread clamp which is mounted upon the take-up lever. Upon the side of the take-up lever is mounted the slide 0 which is provided with a slot through which screws are passed so that the said slide may be moved longitudinally upon the side of the take-up lever. This slide 0 carries upon its upper end a thread truck 0 The upper end of the take-up lever 0 carries a thread clamp 0 which consists of a small piece of metal let into a groove in the projection upon the upper end of the takeup lever and is held in place by a screw 0 an eccentric headed screw 0 is provided by which the position of the thread clamp 0 may be adjusted, after which it will be secured in place by the screw 0. A spring 0 interposed between the slide 0 and the end of the take-up lever, serves as mcans normally to move the slide, and with it the thread truck 0 in the direction to separate it from an engagement with the thread clamp 0 A cam 0 is mounted upon the stationary stud 0 which forms the pivot for the take-up lever which cam engages the end of the slide 0 The above described an rangement, the shape of the cam path 0 and the cam 0 are such that when the take-up begins to rise, the end of the slide 0 is pressed upon. by the cam 0 and forced outwardly so as to press the thread running over the thread truck 0 against the thread clamp 0 so as to clamp and hold the same from movement over said thread truck, the further upward movement of the take-up. the thread being clamped and held clamped in the manner described, pulls upon the needle thread running thereover and pulls it into the work.
The shuttle consists of a shuttle disk 01 provided with the hook or point a and having a rib a which engages the shuttle race a, the shuttle being held in place in the race by a plate a The shuttle is oscillated by means of shuttle driver 11 which carries upon its forward end the disk n from which project forward a pin n which is adapted to enter the space under the hook of the shuttle and a projection n which is adapted to engage a portion of the shuttle at a distance from the pin n These two projections 12 and n afford the means for oscillating the shuttle in the shuttle race. The shuttle driver n consists of a sleeve mounted in a bearing 11 in the frame of the machine, and carrying upon its rear end a pinion n which is engaged by a rack mounted upon a shuttle driving slide 01, which is provided upon its upper end with a fork n which embraces the main shaft (1 of the machine and by which it is guided in its reciprocating movements. The said shuttle driving slide at is provided with a stud which carries a cam roll, which engages a cam path a in one side of the cam disk M mounted upon the main shaft 6 of the machine between the cam disk 0 and the cam disk F. The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam path a are such that the shuttle is actuated, when the needle has retracted and moved forward slightly to open a loop of thread to receive the shuttle, to move forward from the position illustrated in Fig. 18 to the position illustrated in Fig. 19, then the shuttle is retracted slightly to slacken the loop of thread carried by it for a purpose which will be presently described in connection with the description of the bobbin case carried by the shuttle, and then the shuttle is again ad vanced a short distance in order to cast off the loop of thread, the bobbin case having been pushed through the shuttle in the meanwhile to disengage the loop of thread carried thereby, and then the shuttle is again retracted and stands still during the operation of the take-up and until the needle has again advanced and again retracted and drawn another loop of thread through the materials to be interlocked with the shuttle thread.
The shuttle is provided with an eccentric opening which is adapted to receive a bobbin case of a thickness considerably greater than the thickness of the shuttle which therefore is much more capacious than the ordinary bobbin case. The bobbin case consists of two cups, a larger m and a smaller m the latter of which fits closely within the former, and which latter is provided with openings for the thread, the thread emerging through the opening m thence passing again into the bobbin case through the opening m and finally passing out through the opening an in a manner clearly illustrated in Fig. 2 The two members of the bobbin case are provided upon their opposite sides with ribs by means of which the bobbin case is held from oscillatory rotation with the shuttle although it has an oscillatory movement of revolution about the axis of the shuttle. The member at is provided upon its rear surface with a projection m which is adapted to engage a space between two projections m on a slide on held in a clove tail groove in the front end of the slide m The other bobbin case member m is provided upon its front side with two projections m which are adapted to receive between them the projection an which is carried by the slide 011 secured in a dovetail groove in the bobbin case holder m piv otally mounted at 111, upon the front end of the slide M The two slides m and m are secured together in the rear of the bearing n and are adapted to be actuated by a bell-crank lever m pivoted at m upon a portion of the frame of the machine, of which its depending arm is provided with a slot which engages a pin m in the slide m and of which the forwardly projecting arm carries a stud supporting a cam roll which engages acam path on in the side of the cam disk M. By this means the slides m and m are reciprocated to move the bobbin case forward and back through the aperture in the shuttle. The position of the projections upon the bobbin case and the slides are such that the projections upon the one side thereof will engage before the projections upon the other side thereof have disengaged. This serves to hold the bobbin case at all times from oscillatory motion. By making the opposite sides of the bobbin case difierent, error in putting the bobbin case in the machine is avoided. It is to be observed that the projection m which engages the recess between the projection m of the bobbin case is adapted to press upon the shuttle thread during the time the take-up is acting, and that, therefore, such construction affords a means of periodically increasing and decreasing the tension upon the shuttle thread, increasing it during the time the takeup is acting so that the position of the lock in the materials is accurately secured and so that the tension upon the shuttle thread is decreased during the time of its retracting movement from the work and while thread is being drawn from the bobbin case. The above described arrangement and the shape of the cam paths referred to are such that after the needle has retracted drawing back its loop of thread and again slightly advanced to buckle the thread drawn back into the loop as shown in Fig. 18, the shuttle begins its advancing movement. The shuttle hook enters the loop of 'thread opened by the needle and thread guide as shown in Fig. 18; it then advances carrying the loop of thread taken from the needle around the bobbin case into the position indicated in Fig. 19, the forward side of the loop of the thread falling down in front of the bobbin case and passing between the disengaged front projections which control the bobbin case, then after the shuttle has retracted slightly to loosen the loop of thread the bobbin case is moved forward to push it forward in the aperture in the shuttle into the position indicated in Fig. 20, and the slide m retracting slightly after its forward movement is completed to separate the projections at the rear of the bobbin case so that the leg of the loop of thread previously lying in the rear of the shuttle and upon the surface of the bobbin case, may fall down between the rear projections and drop off the shuttle.
The feed slide d is mounted in the usual guides projected from the frame of the machine and actuated by the feed lever d which is pivoted at its lower end upon a stationary part of the machine and carries upon its upper end a stud bearing a cam roll which engages a cam path (Z in the cam disk D. The usual means for adjusting the stroke of the feed slide are provided for regulating the length of the stitch.
The welt guide is mounted upon the forward end of the welt guide slide 6 which is adapted to be actuated by the welt. guide lever e pivotedat 6 upon a stationary part of the machine and provided upon its upper end with a stud carrying a cam roll which engages the cam path 0 in the cam disk F. The connections between the welt guide lever and the welt guide slide consist of a ratchet 6 which is adapted to be engaged by a pawl e pivoted upon the lower end of the welt guide lever and "normally pressed downward in the direction to cause its toothed end to engage the ratchet by means of a spring 6 A stop 6 rigidly secured to the lower end of the welt guide lever serves to lift the pawl 6 out of engagement with the teeth of the said ratchet at times when the lower end of the welt guide lever is swung back. At such times, the lower end of the welt guide lever engages an adjustable stop 6 secured upon the side of the welt guide slide and positively retracts it. A spring 6" is supported in two spring cups, the one on the lower end of the welt guide lever and the other mounted upon the side of the welt guide slide in such position that when the lower end of the welt guide lever moves forward, it acts to press the welt guide slide forward with yielding pressure until the pawl 6 comes into engagement with the teeth of the ratchet 0 when it is moved forward positively so that during the first part of the forward motion of the welt guide slide, the welt guide is moved forward under'yielding pressure, while during the latter part of the forward motion thereof the said slide is moved forward positively to give a final nip to hold the welt guide firmly against the shoe.
The welt guide consists of three parts, the main portion 6, a thickness gage e and an edge gage e which are assembled in the positions shown in Figs. 23, 24, 25 and 26. The shank of the main portion 6' is laterally ofi-set from the body of the guide and a notch e is provided therein which affords clearance for the needle segment. This offset portion 6 is provided with a segmental cylindrical surface which fits a corresponding segmental cylindrical surface upon the front end of the welt guide slide. A bolt is provided for securing the main portion to the forward end of the welt guide slide,
the latter being slotted vertically as shown in Figs. 24-, 25 and 26 to permit the welt guide to be turned to different angular positions as shown in these figures. The edge gage e is laid upon the main portion 6, its forward edge beveled so as to afford a convenient guide for the edge of the welt, and the thickness gage is laid thereon. The shanks of these two gages are slotted as shown and a cap bolt serves to secure them to the main portion a. The edge gage 6 may be adjusted forward and back so as to correctly guide welts of various widths to the shoe being sewed, and the thickness gage may be adjusted forward and back to compensate for variations in thickness of the welt, the forward end of the thickness gage being bent upwardly as shown, and sliding under a rearward projection upon the upper forward end of the main portion. parts may thus be varied in position to adapt them to correctly guide the welt to the shoe without distortion. While the welt guide above described forms no part of the present invention, it is described herein for the purpose of setting forth a complete description of the machine in which the invention is preferably embodied. This welt guide forms the subject matter of a divisional application, Serial No. 63,159, filed June 4, 1901.
The machine is provided at its rear with a tension device which consists of a thread truck 79 mounted upon a stud p which has one end screwed into the left hand fork of a bracket p projected rearwardly from the base 6 of the machine. Upon opposite sides of the thread truck 19 are mounted friction washers one of which is interposed between the said thread truck and the side of the fork 79 above referred to, and the other of which is interposed between the other side of the thread truck and the friction disk 9 A second disk 29 similar to the disk 12 is mounted upon said stud p and a stud p screwed into the first disk, projects into a corresponding hole in the second disk. This maintains the two disks p and 79 in correct position with relation to each other.
The disk p is subjected to the pressure of a tension spring 79 which bears against it upon one end and against an adjusting nut p upon the other side which is screwed upon the stud 39 so that by turning the adjusting nut, the tension may be regulated. A lock nut 79 is provided for locking the adjusting nut in adjusted position. These two disks are cut away for a portion of their width as shown in Fig. 32, and interposed between them is a wedge 39 which is adapted when depressed, to press apart the two disks and to apply tension to the thread truck, which when raised permits them to move toward each other and to release or diminish the friction upon the thread truck The and consequently the tension on the thread. The end of the stud p which is screwed into the arm of the bracket is hollow and a steam pipe leads thereto for heating it and the thread truck. The wedge 29 is provided with a depending bar which is encircled by a spring which normally tends to force the said wedge upward into the position illustrated in Fig. 32, but the lower end of the said bar is provided with a projection adapted to engage a slot in a bellcrank lever, which is adapted to be actuated by a foot treadle, not shown, which foot treadle also serves to operate the clutch which throws the power on and off for operating the machine. The other arm 297 of the fork bracket above referred to, is provided with an enlarged opening adapted to receive the hub of the adjusting nut p 7 and serves to steady and support the device. This tension device forms no feature of the present invention, but is described herein merely for the purpose of describing the complete machine in which the invention is preferably embodied. The device forms the subject of a divisional application, Serial No. 63,160, filed June 4, 1901, for an improvement in sewing machines.
The machine is provided with a wax pot adapted to receive a whole cake of wax,
having ducts leading to a thread conduit, through which the thread passes from the dry thread holder to the tension wheel about which the thread is wrapped once and from whence it extends over the thread truck 0 and the takeup and thence to the thread guide f The present invention is not limited to the illustrated embodiment thereof, but may be embodied in other and different forms without departure therefrom.
Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:
1. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hooked needle, a needle guide embracing the needle, a shuttle, shuttle actuating mechanism, and means for actuating the needle in timed relation to the movements of the shuttle to cause the needle after having drawn a loop of thread through the materials to advance slightly so as to buckle the loop of thread to receive the hook of the shuttle, substantially as described.
2. A shoe sewing machine, having, in com bination, a curved hooked needle, a stationary thread guide located alongside of and in advance of the needle, a looper normally located upon the opposite side of the needle from the thread guide, and means for actuating the looper to move it into engagement with the thread bet-ween the work and the needle and to move it from its normal position to a position between the needle and the thread guide, to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, substantially as described.
3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming instrumentalities, of a shuttle consisting of a solid disk formed with an opening eccentric thereof and having a portion of its periphery cut away to form a hook; a bobbin case supported by the wall of said eccentric opening means for actuating said disk, means for retaining said bobbin case against rotation and means for reciprocating said bobbin case through said eccentric opening substantially as clescribed and for the purpose set forth.
A. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved needle having a hook upon its side, a thread guide located on the side of the needle opposite the hook, a looper movable first from a point. on the hook side of the needle to a point on the opposite side. of the. needle to lay the thread in the hook of the needle and measure oil thread and thereafter toward the work to give up thread to the retracting needle, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
5. A lock-stitch, waX-thread, shoe-sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a take-up, a shuttle hook operating in a fixed plane, a thread case greater in thickness than the hook and movable from a position with one of its ends lying in the plane of one side of the hook to a position with its other end lying in the plane of the other side of the hook, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a take-up, a discoidal shuttle hook, a thread-case, means for moving the hook andcase with relation v to each other so that the two sides of the loop of thread drawn out by the hook may pass the two ends of the case successively, substantially as described.
7. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a curved hook needle having a hook on one side, a thread guide located on the opposite side of the needle from the hook, a looper normally located on the hook side of the needle movable from its normal position into engagement with the standing thread andthence to the thread guide side of the needle to lay the, thread in the hook' of the needle and to form a bight of thread and back again to give up thread to the retreating needle, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.
8. A shoe sewing machine having, in com bination, a curved hook needle, a needle guide embracing the needle, a shuttle, shuttle-actuating mechanism, and means for actuating the needle guide in timed relation to the movements of the shuttle to cause the' needle guide, after the needle has drawn a loop of thread through the materials, to advance slightly so as to engage and buckle the loop to receive the hook of the shuttle, substantially as described.
9. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a discoidal shuttle, means for actuating the shuttle to draw out and pass through the needle loop, a thread case mounted in the shuttle, and means for moving the thread case axially of the shuttle while the shuttle is passing through the needle loop, substantially as described.
Farmers JOSEPH FREESE.
Witnesses:
WILL P. MOFEAT, FRED. J. SEARS.
Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. 0.
US63018797A 1897-03-31 1897-03-31 Sewing-machine. Expired - Lifetime US1030774A (en)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US63018797A US1030774A (en) 1897-03-31 1897-03-31 Sewing-machine.
US63160A US1029923A (en) 1897-03-31 1901-06-04 Tension device for sewing-machines.
US63159A US1029922A (en) 1897-03-31 1901-06-04 Welt-guide for sewing-machines.
US63158A US1029921A (en) 1897-03-31 1901-06-04 Take-up for sewing-machines.

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US63018797A US1030774A (en) 1897-03-31 1897-03-31 Sewing-machine.

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US1030774A true US1030774A (en) 1912-06-25

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2780188A (en) * 1952-07-05 1957-02-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Lockstitch sewing machines

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2780188A (en) * 1952-07-05 1957-02-05 United Shoe Machinery Corp Lockstitch sewing machines

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