TWI658181B - Easily settable stretch fabrics including low-melt fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a stretchable fabric that is easy to set, and includes a first type of rigid fiber, a second type of elastic fiber, and a third type of low-melting fiber yarn. The low-melting fiber comprises a low-melting polymer that can be fused at a temperature below the heat-setting temperature of the elastic fiber. These fabrics have low shrinkage, good anti-elastic slippage, and anti-drawing and anti-crimping performance. Methods of making such fabrics and garments comprising such fabrics are also included.

Description

Easy-setting stretch fabrics containing low-melting fibers Cross-reference to related applications

This application claims the benefits of US Provisional Application Serial No. 62 / 096,762 filed on December 24, 2014; and US Provisional Application Serial No. 62/198243 filed on July 29, 2015; The content is specifically incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The present invention relates to an easy-to-set stretch fabric comprising three types of fibers or yarns: rigid fibers (type 1), elastic fibers (type 2), and low-melting fibers (type 3), where the low-melting fibers include A low-melting polymer that can be fused at a temperature below the heat-setting temperature of the elastic fiber. Without damaging the recovery of elastic fibers, the fabric can be stabilized at a low shrinkage at low temperatures. Adjustable fabric stretch level through thermal activation procedure. The fabric in the garment can have a changed telescopic level in a predetermined position, which improves the shaping and slimming characteristics. The fabric also has a low shrinkage rate, good anti-elastic slippage, and anti-drawing and anti-crimping performance. It also includes methods for making fabrics and clothing.

Elastic fibers and fabrics and garments containing elastic fibers are typically heat-set to provide good dimensional stability to the fiber or fabric and shape the finished garment. In order to have good dimensional stability, some elastic fiber strength is eliminated and the fiber properties are damaged. If heat setting is not used to "set" the elastic fibers, or the heat setting temperature is too low, the fabric can have a high shrinkage, Heavy fabric weight and excessive elongation can cause a negative consumer experience. Excessive shrinkage during the fabric finishing process can cause creases on the surface of the fabric during handling and home washing. Wrinkles formed in this way are often difficult to remove by ironing.

However, heat setting has disadvantages. Heat setting at high temperatures can damage the elastic fiber structure and eliminate its elasticity and restoring force, which often results in poor garment shape retention during wearing. In addition, the heat setting temperature of typical elastic fibers can adversely affect sensitive companion yarns such as wool, cotton, polypropylene, and silk. After such heat setting, the fabric becomes rough and sometimes yellow. For polyester and Nylon fibers, high temperature heat setting can affect fabric dyeing ability. The industry is looking for an easier way to control the shrinkage of the fabric, while maintaining the recovery force of the elastic fibers and retaining the rigid fiber properties.

For woven, circular knitted and warp knitted fabrics containing elastic fibers, repeated stretching, scraping or cutting often results in drawing, stripping and curling problems. These problems include ladder-like cracks and voids, elastic fibers can slip off, reveal, wear at the cutting edge, and can cause the fabric to roll up, which damages the uniformity and appearance of the item. During the cutting and stitching process, it is easy for the elastic fibers to detach from the seam under repeated stretching and this results in a loss of expansion and contraction of the fabric. This is the so-called "slip in" or seam slip. It became one of the key quality complaints from consumers and one of the main reasons for the return of clothing from department stores and brands.

Shaped clothing is designed to temporarily change the shape of the wearer to achieve a more popular figure. In recent years, fashion trends have tended to accept clothing and apparel designs that increasingly highlight the natural curve of the human body, and adjustment series have a growing trend in the market. It is mainly used in women's clothing (such as underwear, lingerie, jeans and woven trousers). Many women's consumers are looking for comfortable clothing that enhances their figure while highlighting their best features (for example, shaping jeans that thin the abdomen, tighten the thighs and raise the hips). Clothing improves wearer appearance and self-esteem.

Current techniques for shaping mainly use long floating needles, higher deniers or high drafts Different yarn coil structures of elastic fibers; or apply special contour patterns in strategically selected areas. Other common practices include introducing a second layer of fabric or pad that is sewn together with the base fabric, or selecting fabrics with different elasticities and stitching them together in different locations (Sun W., US79500669B2; Costa, F., WO2013 / 154445A1; James S., US2010 / 0064409A1; Frank Z., US2011 / 0214216A1; Stewart M., GB2477754A; Lori H., US 7341500B2; Nicolas B., US7945970B2; Fujimoto M., EP 0519135B1). For example, a specially designed rigid insert in the front of the abdomen inside the jeans helps to slim the abdomen. Insert pads or sponges into the pants to enhance and enhance the visual hip profile of the wearer. All of these methods impair the comfort of the wearer by providing a shaping effect and they are visible from the surface of the garment.

Low-melting fibers have been widely used in non-woven and other applications. The main purpose is to bond the fibers together to form a braid, and to improve the strength, wear and other properties of the fabric. (Chang, HS, EP2261405A, the use of low melting fiber in rigid woven for no apparel; Harold, K., US2009053763, bi-component fiber with low melting fiber in nonwoven shoe insole; Horiuchi, s., EP0691427A1, Nonwoven with hot -melt-adhesive conjugate fibers; Kevin, S., Fiber mulch mats bound with bi-component fiber).

Many efforts have been made to develop hot-melt and steam-set polyurethane urea or polyurethane elastomer fibers, such as disclosed in US 2009/061164, US 20060030229A1, US 200800322580A1. In such developments, the fusible component is spun together with the elastic component in a single yarn. The fusing or melting of the fusible components mainly provides the adhesion function and limited holding, limiting and shaping performance. It is also impossible to change and control the stretch level of the fabric.

Garments with easy setting, good recovery, invisible shaping functions, and good anti-skid and anti-drawing performance are still highly desirable.

The invention provides an easily-settable stretch fabric, which includes three types of yarns: rigid fibers, elastic fibers, and low-melting fibers. The low-melting fibers include a temperature that can be between 60 ° C and 200 ° C. For fused low-melting polymers, the temperature is higher than the temperature used for normal textile procedures and home washing, but lower than the temperature used to heat-set elastic fibers. The low-melting fiber can be selected from the group consisting of modified polyester, nylon, polyolefin and polypropylene, and copolymers made of short fibers or filaments.

According to the present invention, the low-melting polymer is partially or completely fused during the thermal activation process, and hardens and forms cross-links with adjacent fibers, which helps to shape and fix the yarn loop or crimped configuration in the fabric . It stabilizes the fabric structure and restrains the change of the loop / crimp configuration and the relative movement of the yarn when an external force is applied. The fabric has the properties of low shrinkage, good anti-elastic slippage, anti-thread drawing and anti-bending.

In another aspect of the present invention, the elastic fabric can be heat-set at a temperature lower than the heat-setting temperature of a typical elastic fiber without damaging the elastic fiber recovery force. The stretching level of the fabric of the present invention can be controlled by applying different heat during the thermal activation process. A variety of fabric structures (including knits, circular knits, warp knits, or socks) and a variety of apparel constructions (e.g., sportswear, sportswear, undergarments, and ready-to-wear, such as jeans) can be manufactured.

The present invention further provides a garment having a local shaping effect by applying a thermal activation procedure to a target area on the garment. In the shaping zone, the fabric has a low stretch level, a high stretch modulus, and a high retention force, which makes the wearer's figure more attractive in key areas: such as the front of the body's abdomen, along the wear The inside and outside of the thighs surround the knee area and the hip area in the rear part of the body.

The invention finally provides a method for manufacturing composite yarns, fabrics and garments with low-melting fibers. Low-melting fibers are added by a variety of methods, including fiber spinning, fiber blending, yarn coating, weaving, or knitting procedures. Thermal activation procedures can be performed on fabrics, garment inlays, or entire garments during fabric finishing, garment manufacturing, before or after a garment washing procedure.

2‧‧‧ Low-melting bicomponent fiber

4‧‧‧ the first component

6‧‧‧Second component

10‧‧‧Rigid fiber sheath / Single-side jersey knitting step / Add yarn knitting step / knitted fabric

12‧‧‧ elastic fiber

14‧‧‧hard fiber / rigid fiber

18‧‧‧low melting fiber

20‧‧‧ Yarn Feeding Position

22‧‧‧ Knitting Needles

24‧‧‧ Arrow

26‧‧‧ Carrier Board

28‧‧‧ yarn package

30‧‧‧ Yarn Feeding Metering Device

32‧‧‧ Yarn Feed Roller

34‧‧‧ Guide hole

36‧‧‧ Surface Driven Package

37‧‧‧roller

38‧‧‧Guide

39‧‧‧ Detector / Broken Detector

42‧‧‧Roller set

44‧‧‧ rigid fiber / hard fiber or yarn

46‧‧‧Delivery roller / core fiber feeder

48‧‧‧ Elastic Filament / Bare Elastic Filament

52‧‧‧elastic fiber

54‧‧‧ tube

56‧‧‧ composite core spinning yarn / spinning device

60‧‧‧ yarn package

64‧‧‧ Yarn Feeding Metering Device / Delivery Roller / Core Fiber Yarn Feeding Device

66‧‧‧ Yarn Feed Roller

70‧‧‧ Low-melting fiber / fusible molding line

72‧‧‧ Low-melt fiber tube

74‧‧‧Tension control device / tension device 7

84‧‧‧Hip shaping belt

86‧‧‧Shaping area

88‧‧‧Shaping Area

90‧‧‧Shaping Area

92‧‧‧gradient edge / waist area / area / shape pattern

94‧‧‧ Waist area / shape pattern

96‧‧‧ Waist area / shape pattern

100‧‧‧foot area

102‧‧‧ leg area

Figure 1 is a photograph of the low-melting fiber in the initial melting state.

Figure 2 is a photograph of low-melting fibers in a molten state.

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic illustration of a composite yarn spun with an elastic fiber and a low-melt fiber core-spun yarn in the core.

Fig. 4 is a schematic illustration of a core spinning device having two drafting devices (elastic fibers + low-melting fibers).

Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of a step of adding yarns including hard fibers, elastic fibers and low-melting fibers.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of a part of a cylindrical knitting machine that uses a hard fiber yarn, an elastic fiber yarn, and a low-melt fiber yarn to feed yarn.

FIG. 7 is an illustrative garment having a fused shaped region in a hip shaped region, the fused shaped region being configured as a curved U shape around a hip region in a rear portion of a wearer's body.

FIG. 8 is an illustrative garment having a shaping region in a thin abdomen region, the shaping region being placed in front of the abdomen of a high-waisted undergarment.

Fig. 9 is an illustrative hosiery with fusion shaped regions in the leg and foot portions.

The fabric according to the invention is advantageously constructed from three types of yarns: rigid fibers, elastic fibers and low-melting fibers. As used herein, the term 'low-melting fiber' refers to a fiber including a low-melting polymer having a melting temperature greater than 60 ° C but less than 200 ° C, which ensures that the low-melting fiber is not used in the manufacture of fabrics and apparel and Perceives softening, melting, or flowing during home washing, but softens or melts during the thermal activation process and acts as a stabilizer and binder for stretch fabrics.

Low-melting fibers have softening and melting temperatures lower than conventional textile fibers. The melting temperature of conventional textile fibers is mostly higher than 400 ° C, such as 482 ° C to 550 ° C for normal polyester; 66,482 ° C for nylon; 66,415 ° C for nylon; and 450 ° C for spandex To 520 ° C.

The appearance and behavior of low-melting fibers under normal textile and finishing procedures are the same as those of conventional rigid textile fibers with good flexibility and softness. However, after the thermal activation procedure, the low-melting fibers became hard, partially fused and adhered to other adjacent fibers (including elastic fibers, rigid fibers, and other low-melting fibers). These stiffened yarns and cross-linked structures limit the relative movement of the fibers inside the fabric, lock and restrict the fabric from protruding, reduce fabric shrinkage, and provide shaping functions.

Low-melting fibers can be selected from the following fiber groups: modified polyester, nylon, and polyolefins and polypropylene and copolymers of these fibers, which are in the form of short fibers or filaments.

The term "low-melt bicomponent fiber" refers to a fiber made from two components having a first conventional polymer component and a second low-melt polymer component. The low-melting polymer component is a modified polymer that can be fused at a temperature in the range of 60 ° C to 200 ° C, which is lower than the temperature for heat setting the elastic fiber. Figure 1 shows the structure of a low-melting bicomponent fiber 2 where the first component 4 includes a conventional polymer and the second component 6 includes a low-melting component.

As used herein, the term "thermal activation procedure" refers to a procedure that activates the hardening and adhesion function of low-melting fibers by heat. During the thermal activation procedure, the fabric is heated up to a certain level where the heat is sufficient to soften or melt the low-melting polymer. Low-melt polymers adhere adjacent fibers (as shown in Figure 2) and serve as a bonding material to lock or restrain the relative movement of the fibers. However, the temperature is not sufficiently high, resulting in permanent structural damage to normal rigid fibers and damage to the recovery force of elastic fibers.

As used herein, the term "rigid fiber" refers to a yarn that is substantially inelastic, such as polyester, cotton, nylon, rayon, or wool.

Elastomer fibers are commonly used to provide stretch and elastic recovery in fabrics and garments. "Elastomer fibers" are continuous filaments (optionally agglomerated multiple filaments) or a plurality of filaments without fillers, which have an elongation at break of more than 100% independent of any crimps. When Sexual body fibers (1) expand and contract to twice their length; (2) hold for one minute; and (3) when released, the elastic fiber retracts to less than 1.5 times its original length within one minute of release. As used herein in this specification, "elastomeric fiber" means at least one elastomeric fiber or filament. Such elastomer fibers include, but are not limited to, rubber filaments, bicomponent filaments (which can be based on rubber, polyurethane, etc.), lastol, and spandex.

"Spandex" is a manufactured filament in which the filament-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of a block polyurethane.

An "elastoester" is a manufactured filament of a long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight of an aliphatic polyether and at least 35% by weight of a polyester in which the fiber-forming substance is formed. Although non-elastomeric, elastomeric esters may be included in certain fabrics herein.

"Polyester bicomponent filament" means a continuous filament comprising a pair of polyesters that are deeply adhered to each other along the length of the fiber, such that the fiber cross-section (for example) is juxtaposed, eccentric sheath-core, or It forms other suitable profiles with useful curl. Polyester bicomponent filaments include poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of: poly (ethylene terephthalate), poly (trimethylene terephthalate) Esters), and poly (butylene terephthalate) or a composition of these members, having a heat shrinkage value after heat setting from about 10% to about 80%.

The term "elastic fibers" refers to fibers that provide elasticity and recovery to stretch fabrics. It includes "elastomer fibers", "elastic ester fibers", spandex, "polyester bicomponent filaments" and others throughout the description.

A "composite yarn" is a yarn consisting of both elastic fibers and low-melting fibers that are surrounded by rigid fibers, twisted with or entangled with rigid fibers. Rigid fibers protect the elastic fibers from abrasion during the textile process. Such abrasion can cause disruption of elastic fibers due to subsequent process disturbances and undesired fabric non-uniformities. In addition, this coating helps to stabilize the elastic behavior of the elastic fibers, so that the elongation of the composite yarn can be controlled more evenly during the spinning process than is possible for naked elastic fibers. Compound yarns can also add yarn and The tensile modulus of the fabric helps to improve the fabric's recovery strength and dimensional stability.

Composite yarns include: (a) single-wrap elastic fibers with rigid fibers; (b) double-wrap elastic fibers with rigid fibers; and (c) continuous covering with short fibers (i.e., corespun / corespun / core-apinning)) elastic fibers, followed by twisting during winding; (d) entanglement and entanglement of elastic fibers and rigid fibers using air jets; and (e) twisting of elastic fibers and rigid fibers together.

As used herein, the term "fabric" refers to a knitted or knitted material. Knitted fabrics can be jersey, circular knit, warp knit, narrow stretch, and flower knit. Woven fabrics can have any configuration, for example, satin, twill, plain weave, Oxford weave, basket weave, and narrow stretch and the like.

As used herein, "sequential shuttle" means a weaving method and a knitting structure in which one weft-knitted yarn containing low-melting fibers and another weft-knitted yarn containing conventional textile filaments or staple fibers are knitted in alternating shuttle line.

"Co-injection shuttle" means a weaving method and a knitting structure, in which a low-melting fiber and a conventional spinning short fiber or a filament weft-knitted yarn are woven with the same shuttle as one.

As used herein, the term "molded" article refers to the result of changing the shape of an article or shaped article in response to the application of heat and / or pressure.

As used herein, the term "pressed" or "pressed" refers to items that have been subjected to heat and / or pressure to provide a substantially flat structure.

It was surprisingly found that stretch fabrics including low-melting fibers can be set at temperatures below the heat-setting temperature used for normal elastic fibers. Under better thermal conditions, the low-melting fibers partially or completely melt and fuse with adjacent fibers. After cooling to room temperature, the low-melting fibers harden and form cross-links with adjacent fibers. The fused low-melting fibers hold and bond the elastic fibers to the rigid fibers. Fabric dimensional stability is controlled without compromising elastic fiber performance (including elasticity and recovery). Therefore, the fabric has low growth, good recovery and excellent shape retention, while maintaining a low shrinkage. This is useful for containing heat-sensitive companion fibers such as Fabrics containing cotton, wool, polypropylene and silk) are required. Low temperatures are also good for saving energy in fabric manufacturing.

According to the present invention, a sufficient temperature for thermal activation may be from about 60 ° C to about 180 ° C, rather than the range of 185 ° C to 195 ° C currently used in many commercial elastic fabric production processes. The optimal temperature and processing time will depend on the specific materials used in the low melting component.

It has also been found that the stretchable fabric of the present invention, including low-melting fibers, is manufactured at various stretch levels by using different heat-activating temperatures, which are lower than the heat-setting temperature of the elastic fibers. The fusion rate of low-melting fibers and the setting efficiency of novel fabrics depend on the amount of heat used during the thermal activation process. As the process temperature gets higher and higher, more and more low-melting fibers melt and fuse with neighboring fibers, the bonding force between the fibers becomes larger and the elastic fibers stick more firmly, which results in lower fabric expansion quasi.

In this way, by adjusting the activation heat temperature and time, fabrics with different stretching levels can be obtained. The thermal activation temperature can be adjusted from a temperature of 20 ° C below the fusion temperature to a temperature of 5 ° C above the fusion temperature.

Low-melting fibers can be used to produce many types of elastic fabrics, including, but not limited to, woven fabrics, circular knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics, seamless fabrics, and hosiery such as pantyhose, socks, Stockings and knee socks) and so on.

Low-melting fibers can be added during the spinning process by blending and mixing with rigid fibers. Low-melting fibers can also be blended with rigid fibers in the form of rovings during carding. It is also feasible to feed low-melting fibers together with rigid fibers and elastic fibers in the cladding procedures of composite yarns (such as air cladding, single cladding, double cladding, and core spinning yarn programs). It can also be added during the knitting and knitting operations by means of co-shuttle or yarn addition. Dyeing and finishing of the combined fabric or clothing can be performed.

In some embodiments are circular knitted and warp knitted fabrics. Figure 3 shows a knitted fabric structure with low-melting fibers. Low-melting fibers are spun together with elastic fibers and rigid fibers to form a knitted loop structure. After the thermal activation procedure, the low-melting fibers partially fused and bound some Elastic fibers and rigid fibers are bonded together. This prevents the yarn from slipping off and prevents threading.

FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of step 10 of the yarn-added knitting thread, wherein the knitted yarn includes elastic fibers 12, low-melting fibers 18, and hard fibers 14. The elastic fibers 12 and the low-melting fibers 18 are yarned together with the hard fibers 14 to form a knitted fabric 10. For the flat-knit structure in a circular knitting machine, the process of co-knitting elastic fibers is called "addition of yarn". For the yarn addition, the hard fibers 14, the low-melting fibers 18, and the elastic fibers 12 are knitted in a parallel, side-by-side relationship, wherein the elastic fibers and the low-melting fibers are always held on one side of the rigid fibers, and thus on one side of the knitted fabric.

Fig. 4 shows in a schematic form a yarn feeding position 20 of a cylindrical knitting machine with a series of knitting needles 22, which respond to the cams (not shown) under the rotating cylinder (not shown) holding the needles as shown in Fig. 4. The movement indicated by the arrow 24 is reversed. In a circular knitting machine, there are multiple such feed positions arranged in a circle to feed the individual knitting positions as the knitting needles (carried by the moving cylinder) rotate through these positions.

The device shown in Figure 4 can be used to produce knitted fabrics with three fibers, in which elastic fibers, low-melting fibers, and a rigid fiber have the same step pattern. Three yarns are knitted together in the same course. Can produce single-sided jersey or twill knitted structure.

During the knitting operation, the elastic fibers 12, low-melting fibers 18, and hard fibers 14 are delivered to the knitting needles 22 through the carrier plate 26. The carrier plate 26 guides all three yarns simultaneously to the knitting position. The elastic fibers 12, low-melting fibers 18, and hard fibers 14 are introduced into the knitting needles 22 to form a single-sided jersey knitting step 10 as shown in FIG.

The rigid fiber 14 is delivered from the yarn package 28 to a yarn accumulator 30 that measures the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needle 22. The rigid fibers 14 pass above the yarn feeding roller 32 and pass through the guide holes 34 in the carrier plate 26. Optionally, more than one rigid fiber can be delivered to the knitting needles via different guide holes in the carrier plate 26.

The low-melting fiber 18 is delivered from the yarn package 60 to the yarn feeding metering device 64, which measures the yarn to the carrier plate 26 and the knitting needle 22. The low-melting fibers 18 pass above the yarn feeding roller 66 and pass through the guide holes 34 in the carrier plate 26.

The elastic fiber 12 drives the package 36 from the surface and is delivered to the guide groove 38 in the carrier plate 26 by passing through the detector 39 and the direction changing roller 37. Measure the yarn tension of the elastic fiber 12 between the detector 39 and the driving roller 37, or another option. If the warp detector is not used, measure the tension between the surface driving package 36 and the roller 37. Yarn feed tension of the elastic fiber 12. The guide holes 34 and the guide grooves 38 are separated from each other in the carrier plate 26 so as to provide the rigid fibers 14, the low-melting fibers 18, and the elastic fibers 12 in a side-by-side (substantially parallel relationship) manner to the knitting needles 22 (add yarn). Cylindrical knitted elastic fiber products are useful in the present invention. Examples of commercially available brands include Lycra® (registered trademark of Invista S.a r.l.) types 162, 169 and 562 (available from Invista S.a r.l.).

Elastane fibers are stretched (drawn) due to the difference between the rate of use of the step and the feed rate of the yarn from the elastomeric yarn supply package when it is delivered from the supply package to the carrier board and then to the knitted thread steps. The ratio of the rigid fiber supply rate (m / min) to the elastic fiber supply rate is normally 2.5 to 4 times (2.5X to 4X) larger and is known as machine drafting. This corresponds to an elastic fiber elongation of 150% to 300% (or more). The yarn tension in the elastic fiber is directly related to the draft of the elastic fiber. This yarn tension is usually maintained at a value consistent with the high machine draft for elastic fibers. It was found that improved results were obtained when the total elastomeric yarn draft (as measured in the fabric) was maintained at about 5X or less (usually 3X or less, for example 2.5X or less). This draft value is the total draft of the elastic fibers and includes any drafts or draws contained in the elastic fibers in the supply package of the as-spun yarn. The value of the residual draft from elastic fibers is called package slack "PR" and it is usually in the range from 0.05 to 0.15 for elastic fibers used in circular knit, elastic, single jersey. Therefore, the total draft of the elastic fibers in the fabric is MD * (1 + PR), where "MD" is the draft of the knitting machine. Knitting machine drafting is the ratio of the feed rate of the rigid fiber to the feed rate of the elastic fiber, both of which come from separate supply packages. Due to its stress-strain nature, as the tension applied to the elastic fibers increases, the elastic fibers draw more; on the contrary, the more elastic fibers are drawn, the higher the tension in the yarn. A typical elastic fiber path in a cylinder knitting machine is schematically shown in FIG. 4. Measure from self-supply package 36, above or through the elongation detector 39 The breakage passes the detector 39, one or more redirecting rollers 37, and then to the elastic fibers 12 on the carrier plate 26, which guides the elastic fibers to the knitting needles 22 and into the thread step. Due to the frictional force exerted by each device or roller that contacts the elastic fibers, there is an accumulation of tension in the elastic fibers when the elastic fibers are self-supplying a package and passed over each device or roller. Therefore, the total draft of the elastic fibers at the line step is related to the sum of the tension in the entire elastic fiber path. The tension of the elastic fiber feed yarn between the warp detector 39 and the roller 37 shown in FIG. 4 was measured. Alternatively, if the warp detector 39 is not used, the elastic fiber feed tension between the surface-driven package 36 and the roller 37 is measured. The higher this tension is set and controlled, the greater the elastic fiber draft that will be present in the fabric, and vice versa. For example, in a commercial cylindrical knitting machine, this yarn tension can range from 2cN to 4cN for the 22dtex elastic fiber system and from 4cN to 6cN for the 44dtex elastic fiber system. Due to these yarn feed tension settings and the additional tension exerted by subsequent yarn path friction, the elastic fibers in commercial knitting machines will be stretched to significantly greater than 3X. Minimizing the spandex friction between the supply package and the knitting step helps to maintain the elastic fiber yarn tension at an elastic fiber drafting system of 7X or less, which is high enough for a reliable elastic fiber yarn. In order to stably feed the elastic fiber from the supply package to the knitting step, the elastic fiber draft is usually 3x or less.

The low-melting fiber 18 is retracted (drawn) before it enters the knitting needle 22. The yarn extends through the speed difference between the yarn feeding metering device 64 and the carrier plate 26 and then proceeds to the knitting step. The ratio of the feed rate to the feed metering device 64 (m / min), which is derived from the wire step usage rate, is normally 1.01X to 1.35X (1.01X to 1.35X). Adjusting the speed of the yarn feeding metering device 64 gives the desired drafting or stretching ratio. Too low a stretch ratio will result in a low quality fabric with exposed portions. Too high a stretch ratio will cause the low-melting fiber yarn to break.

In a certain embodiment, the warp knitted fabric comprises low-melting fibers. Rigid filament yarns (type 1) (such as polyester or polyamide) and elastic fibers (type 2) are entangled with each other to form a plurality of locked nodes. The second type of yarn and the low-melting fiber (type 3) form a plurality of locking points. By fusing the yarn (type 3) during the thermal activation process, three types The type of yarn is knitted together to form a fabric, and the knitting procedure forms the interlocking of the first yarn and the second yarn, and the third type of yarn can actually be a weft-entrying yarn that does not form any loop. The subsequent thermal activation process of heating the fabric to 60 ° C to 200 ° C for 1 to 4 minutes causes the second type of yarn and the third type of yarn to fuse and adhere to each other and possibly to other yarns.

During the knitting process, a fabric is produced according to the loop forming method and a predetermined knitting loop pattern through the coordinated movement of all moving parts on the machine. Among the fabrics produced there are open-end loops, closed-end loops, and weft-entry yarns for continuous steps.

Three types of yarns are deployed on warp knitting machines, such as Karl Mayer, or Liba warp knitting machines. Type 1 rigid fibers are placed on the first yarn guide. The vertical movement of the knitting needles and the horizontal movement of the yarn guide needles cooperate to form a structural loop of the yarn.

Similarly, elastic fibers and low-melting fibers are disposed on the second and third guide rods, respectively. The order of these two yarns is not strictly required. Fabrics are produced from the three types of yarns via the necessary reciprocation of the yarn guides and according to a predetermined texture.

It should be understood that fabrics produced according to the methods mentioned above can be manufactured on different types of Raschel machines or Trico machines, as long as fusible yarns with suitable low melting properties are provided so that they are at a special temperature during the heat treatment process 60 ° C to 200 ° C) to adhere to each other and / or to other yarns to prevent the coils from slipping off. In this way, the elastic fabric will have superior non-slip properties.

In some embodiments, an article comprising a woven fabric with at least one low-melting fiber in the warp or weft direction is made by using composite yarns such as core-spun yarns, air-covered yarns, Single-wrapped yarn) or co-woven shuttle weaving.

Fig. 5 further illustrates the structure of the core spinning yarn 8 used in elastic weaving. The yarn includes elastic fibers 12, rigid fibers 6, and low-melting fibers 18. The elastic fibers 12 and the low-melting fibers 18 are located in the core, and the rigid fibers 6 are located on the outside as a sheath. The elastic fibers 12 and low-melting fibers 18 are preferably surrounded along their entire length by a rigid fiber sheath 14 composed of spun short fibers Around.

An embodiment of a representative core spinning device 40 is shown in FIG. 6. During the core spinning process, the elastic filaments 52 and the low-melting fibers 70 are individually placed on the delivery rollers 46 and 64 and combined with the rigid fibers 44 to form a composite core-spun yarn 56. Two separate core fiber feeding devices 46 and 64 are mounted on the machine. The elastic fibers are bare elastic filaments 52, and the low-melting fibers 70 are detached from the end of the delivery roller 64 and then passed through the tension control device 74 and the guide rod. The tension device 74 is used to maintain the yarn tension at a predetermined level.

The hard fibers or yarns 44 are loosened from the tube 54 to meet the elastic fibers 52 and the low-melting fibers 70 at the roller set 42. The combined elastic fibers 52, fusible molding threads (low melting) 70, and hard fibers 44 are core-spun at a spinning device 56.

Compared with non-stretchable fibers, the stretch ratio of elastic fibers is normally 1.01X to 5.0X times (1.01X to 5.0X). Too low a stretch ratio will result in a low quality yarn with exposed portions and non-centered elastic filaments. Too high a stretch ratio will cause breakage of the elastic filaments and core voids.

Stretch-controllable woven fabrics can also be made by using air-covered yarns. During the air coating process, low-melting fibers are mixed or blended with elastic fibers and rigid filaments such as nylon or polyester fibers. The three fibers are introduced into the interlacing nozzle together and the interlaced points are formed by the pressurized air. The interwoven yarns are then woven into a fabric for use as warp or weft knitted yarns.

Low-melting fibers can also be shuttled into the fabric as an alternating structure or a common shuttle structure. In the alternating structure or "sequential shuttle" structure, the knitted structure is a structure in which low-melting fibers and spun short fibers or filament weft-knitting yarns are knitted with alternating shuttles. In the "co-injection shuttle" knitting structure, the low-melting fiber and the spun short fiber or the filament weft-knitted yarn are knitted with the same shuttle as one.

In another embodiment, the article includes socks with low-melting fiber. Low-melting fibers can be used in any part of the socks, such as in the top, body, legs, or toe parts. Low-melting fibers are available in simple rigid form or in composite yarn form (e.g. Coating, single coating, double coating). It can be knitted in the form of all weft loops or alternating weft loops. The presence of low-melting fibers helps prevent elastic fibers from spinning and drawing. A special shaping or retaining effect can be achieved by applying or pressing high temperature in a predetermined area, wherein the fabric has a lower stretch level and a higher holding force to prevent slipping during wear. In cooperation with high-density elastic fibers, medical socks with high pressure in the target area can be manufactured. Figure 9 illustrates socks with high pressure forces in the leg and foot regions, where low-melting fibers are melted by high temperatures.

One example is the application in pantyhose. Low-melting fibers can be knitted into different parts of pantyhose, including belts, shorts, legs and toes. In the waistband, low-melting fibers increase retention to hold the garment in place. In shorts, low-melting fibers enhance retention to lift legs and shape the body. It increases robust strength to withstand rough handling, sutures, and body movements when pulled into a wearing position. It also provides shaping functions. In leg wear, low-melting fibers will not reduce the sheer style (mainly in jersey loops, which is why maximum transparency is delivered for a given denier and stitch count). Various knitting and pleating configurations can be adopted to increase the durability of the garment without sacrificing touch, transparency, stretch recovery and production speed. In the toe section, low-melting fibers can increase durability in this weak point. Rupture in the toes is one of the main reasons for the failure of clothing. Low-melting fibers will affect aesthetic appeal and functional needs.

In pantyhose knitting machines, low-melting fibers can be placed at the creel and fed at any yarn feed and any yarn fingers, which enables yarn to be introduced or removed at any point in the knitting cycle. Most knitting machines have 4 yarn feeders, each of which has several yarn fingers.

Another example is a sock in which a low-melting fiber is knitted in a rib opening, a leg portion, a foot portion, and a toe portion. In the top of socks, the most common structure is a double-coated elastic composite yarn laid with alternating weft loops. The spandex fineness is between 100D and 140D. In the body of the socks, it includes low-melting fibers and spandex, optionally with other rigid fibers (various Such as textured polyester or nylon) air-jet coated yarns are added together with rigid fibers. The spandex fineness is in the range from 10 denier to 40 denier.

The fabric of the present invention includes at least 1% by weight of low-melting fibers having a melting temperature above the temperature of the textile process and home washing. These low-melting fibers used in the fabrics of the present invention act as stabilizers and binders for the fabrics and soften or melt during the thermal activation process, but will not be used in the manufacture of fabrics and garments (specifically requiring heat to finish the fabric And they are dyed during their manufacturing steps) during which they are perceptibly softened, melted or flowed. In certain preferred embodiments, the low-melting fibers have a melting point greater than 60 ° C. In certain preferred embodiments, the melting point of the low-melting fiber is from 100 ° C to 200 ° C. Low melts with a melting point above 210 ° C are undesirable in many embodiments because these high temperatures which are needed to soften can cause other components (such as elastic fibers) in the fabric during manufacture Began to degrade. Low melting means having its traditional definition of polymer; these materials flow as a viscous liquid when heated and solidify when cooled, and this process is continuously and reversibly repeated in subsequent heating and cooling steps. Melting point is measured by ASTM method D3418. The melting point is taken as the maximum value of the heat absorption of the melt, and the second heat is measured at a heating rate of 10 degrees Celsius per minute.

Low-melting fibers include low-melting polymers having a melting temperature greater than 60 ° C but less than 200 ° C. In certain preferred embodiments, the melting temperature of the low-melting polymer is 100 ° C to 180 ° C. In certain preferred embodiments, the low melting polymer has a melting temperature of 160 ° C. Low-melting fibers made from low-melting polymers with melting temperatures greater than 100 ° C are useful in stabilizing the yarns of the novel fabrics without appreciable softening or melting when undergoing normal fabric and garment manufacturing processes. The choice of low-melting fibers depends on the final properties of the material and the balance of heat required for finishing, dyeing, and washing fabrics and garments against the temperature that the fabrics and garments will experience during the thermal activation process. As an example, for certain types of dyed socks and undergarments, the melting temperature can be selected between 60 ° C and 100 ° C to obtain better ironing and setting when undergoing low pressure steam treatment. For fabrics that need to be dyed at high temperatures, such as polyester-dispersed fuels, higher melting temperature yarns are required, such as 180 ° C.

The low-melting polymer can be selected from the group consisting of materials having a melting temperature of not lower than 60 ° C but not higher than 200 ° C. These materials include modified polyester, modified nylon, polypropylene, polyethylene, acrylic And copolymers of polyester, polyamide and polyolefin. Modified polymers and copolymers allow precise targeting of the desired thermal behavior.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the preferred low-melting fibers are made of polyamide or polyester having sufficient crystallinity or orientation to have a melting temperature greater than 60 ° C but not greater than 200 ° C. In certain embodiments, the low-melting fibers useful in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of polyolefins, polyimides, polyetherketones, polyamido-amimines, polyether-polyimides Amine and mixtures thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the polyester fibers include polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) polymers. Useful polyester polymers may include a variety of comonomers, including diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, poly (ethylene glycol), glutaric acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, and the like. In addition to these comonomers, branching agents such as pyromellitic acid, pyromelic acid, trimethylolpropane and trimethylolethane, and neopentyl tetraol can also be used. PET can be obtained by known polymerization techniques from terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl ester (such as dimethyl terephthalate) and ethylene glycol or a blend or mixture thereof. PEN can be obtained from 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and ethylene glycol by known polymerization techniques.

In some embodiments, the low-melting fiber is composed of 100% low-melting polymer. The cost of such a single polymer has advantages for certain applications. In this case, it is necessary to add such pure fibers in a small fraction and blend them with rigid fibers and elastic fibers.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the low-melting fiber is made of a low-melting bicomponent fiber, which is a combination of a conventional fiber polymer and a low-melting polymer in a single fiber. The fiber includes at least two separate and distinct regions of different compositions having discernible boundaries along the length of the fiber. The low-melting polymer component can be fused in a temperature range of 60 ° C to 200 ° C, which is lower than the temperature for heat setting the elastic fiber. This compound will make fiber bundles when the fibers are formed after the thermal activation process, unlike the disintegration that occurs with monocomponent fibers.

Based on the cross-sectional shape and geometric position, the bicomponent low-melting fibers can be selected from the group consisting of sheath-core, side-by-side, sea-island, segmented pie, and other structures. In a side-by-side structure, two polymer components are divided into two or more distinct regions, extending side by side along the length. In a sheath-core structure, the core component is completely surrounded by the sheath component. This structure is used when the surface is expected to have good adhesion and fusion and the core can promote strength. The sheath of the fiber is a low-melting polymer having a melting point lower than the melting point of the normal polymer in the core, and therefore at elevated temperatures, the sheath melts, thereby forming a bonding point with adjacent fibers.

For sea-island type structural fibers, one polymer is in the matrix of the second polymer. In a segmented cake structure, the fibers contain alternating cakes or wedges around a loop of fibers having a low-melting polymer.

In one implementation of the invention, the article is made from a fabric comprising a low melting bicomponent and a core-sheath structure. The core is a high-melting polymer used in traditional textile fibers and is contained in polyester, polypropylene, nylon 6, and nylon 66. Many different low-melting polymers with low melting temperatures are useful for the sheath materials of the present invention such as polyethylene, modified polyester, modified nylon, modified polypropylene, and copolymers of polyester, polyamide, and polyolefin )in. During normal textile procedures (including finishing and dyeing), the appearance and behavior of low-melting fibers is the same as normal textile fibers. After the thermal activation procedure, the surface polymer softens, fuses and bonds with adjacent low-melting fibers, elastic fibers, and rigid fibers to form certain points, while the core normal polymer remains unchanged to form stabilized yarn.

It was found that the fabric of the present invention, including low-melting fibers, can be manufactured by applying different heat to have various stretch levels in different positions on a garment. Thermal activation procedures can be performed in a zone to form stretch / recovery enhancements. When additional heat is applied to a certain predetermined area, the fusion rate and the setting efficiency are high and the fabric has a small expansion and contraction level in this area, which is called a "shaping area". In these shaped regions, the fabric has a high expansion modulus and a high retraction force, which limits the deformation of the fabric compared to the non-shaped regions. As the human body moves, the shape of the garment can be strategically repositioned and shaped during wear.

A part of the surface of the human body to which the shaped region is applied is subjected to a tightening force, and thus the difference between the shaped region and the non-shaped region becomes apparent due to the pressure difference. This fabric in the shaping area can act on the shape of the body contours and smooth or control the display of certain key areas. The shaped areas can thus be cropped to extend over only those areas.

It should be understood that the shaping area is not located over the entire garment to create full body tightening, but is provided in a carefully selected area. The result of the positioning of the shaping area is to provide support and shape to the body contour, make the thighs slender, lift the hips and flatten the abdomen, thus forming an improved shape contour instead of simply contracting the entire lower body.

In some embodiments of the present invention, the shaping area is applied in the hip shaping area, as shown in FIG. 7. The shaping region is arranged in a curved U-shape around the hip 80. The buttocks shaping belt 84 can push the wearer's buttocks upward and focus the buttocks so that the outline of the buttocks looks rounder and tighter. It pushes the sides of the buttocks so that the sides of the buttocks do not protrude and can show a full buttock outline. Referring to Fig. 7, the hip shaping belt 84 is symmetrical. The buttocks shaping belt pushes the wearer's buttocks upward in the direction of the arrow and includes a pocket portion, and tightens the buttocks in the direction of the arrow.

In some embodiments of the invention, the shaping region is placed in the thin thigh region: the shaping regions 88 and 86 are applied to the inner thigh and / or the outer thigh region of the wearer, from the knee region to the crotch region, and From the knee area to the hip area, as shown in FIG. 7. The shaped areas 88 and 86 can be used to thin the thighs and raise the hips 80. As explained above, the shaping regions 86 and 88 push and disperse the outside and inside of the thigh of the wearer in the direction of the arrow c to make the thighs look thin, shapely, and slender.

In some embodiments of the invention, the shaped area is applied in a flattened area of the abdomen. The shaped area is placed to cover the abdomen portion of the wearer. In use, at least one shaping region may extend from the waist region to the crotch region across the lower abdomen of the wearer. In some embodiments, the shaping zone is applied as a band from the hip to the anterior portion of the crotch region. The shaped area can thus be used to flatten the lower abdomen of the wearer. It eliminates excessive bulges, provides core stability and promotes body awareness, while providing an overall well-balanced appearance, and provides abdominal compression. Improves the attractiveness of the wearer's posture. For tight fitting, the shaping area lifts and defines the body of the wearer and provides the wearer with a beautiful and stylish body contour.

In some embodiments, the shaped area fabric is positioned in front of the knee area. Although the shaped region keeps the legs straight and saggy, it also provides better abrasion resistance and high fabric strength to improve the durability of the garments in this region.

In some embodiments, the shaping region is disposed in the abdominal tightening region, surrounding the waist regions 92, 94, and 96 in front of the abdomen on the garment, such as the high-waist leggings shown in FIG. The wearer's waist can appear narrower by the higher holding force of the shaping area in this area.

In some embodiments, the shaped area is placed in the leg area 102 and foot area 100 of the hosiery and pantyhose, as shown in FIG. 9. This shaping function can be used for medical or sports or leisure wear purposes by increasing the holding force or compression force in these zones.

The shape of the shaping area can be variously modified to shape the hips and thighs using the method described above. Although the illustrative embodiments of the present invention have been described herein with reference to the accompanying drawings, it should be understood that the present invention is not limited to their precise embodiments, and those skilled in the art may depart from the scope or spirit of the present invention. Under the circumstances, various other changes and modifications are made. All such modifications and changes are intended to be included within the scope of this invention as defined by the scope of the appended patent applications.

It should be understood that the garment may include more than one shaping area (for example, a thin thigh area, a flattened belly area, and a hip raising area), so that the thighs are elongated, the hips are flattened, and the lower abdomen is flattened. The shaped regions may be connected and / or integrally formed, or they may be separate regions of the garment.

In a specific implementation, the shaping area has a gradient edge. Figure 8 shows a shaped area 90 with a gradual edge 92 on the plate between the shaped and non-shaped areas. Gradient edges provide a smooth and seamless transition between shaped and non-shaped areas. Therefore, the wearer does not show visible seams or threads, frills, or edges through the outer fabric when wearing the pants. In the shaping zone, the low-melting fibers melt throughout the zone. Although only a part of the low-melting fiber is fused in the gradient edge, a certain part remains in an unmelted form (shown as white space in area 92 in FIG. 8), where Low-melting fibers do not melt or fuse. In a specific implementation, the width of the gradient edge is about 1/2 inch to about 1.5 inches. In other implementations, the size of the gradient edges may be smaller or larger, and the melting point region may also be gradientd in varying intensity.

As explained above, it is not necessary to make a shaping system based on a pattern. The shape of the inlay can be indefinite and arbitrary (eg, straight, curved, gradient, prescribed or patterned). Furthermore, in some implementations, the edges may be invisible on the inside surface of the fabric because it is hidden by seams, other materials, or the fabric. Shape areas can be added to clothing to form various figure shapes to add functionality and aesthetic effects. Some of the patterns and shapes include triangles, lines, dots, and other figures.

In a special implementation, there are several different shaped patterns in the shaping area. Fig. 8 shows some of the pattern shapes in the shape region in the front of the abdomen. The shape pattern 92 is a gradient edge. The shape pattern 94 is a moderate fusion zone in which the low-melting fibers are partially melted. The shape pattern 96 is an extremely fused region, in which all low-melting fibers are melted and fused. As low-melting fibers are more and more fused, the fabric has less and less elasticity and a high retention force with a strong shaping effect. Therefore, the special shaping effect of clothing can be achieved through engineering design.

In a special implementation, fabric shape patterns and different fusion rates are produced by applying controlled heat in predetermined areas. Applying high temperature or long time or high pressure in the forming zone with extreme melting.

The thermal activation procedure can be achieved by exposing the fabric of the invention to heat and / or static pressures up to 5 bar (depending on the composition of the low-melting polymer). Heat can be applied as steam or dry heat. Suitable thermal activation process conditions can vary depending on a number of factors, including selected melt improving additives, polymer chemistry, yarn linear density and fabric construction (ie, knitting, weaving, etc.), among other factors. For example, preferred activation conditions for socks can include exposure to temperatures from about 90 ° C to about 140 ° C (including from about 105 ° C to about 135 ° C) for about 3 seconds to about 60 using steam heat. Seconds, and exposed to a temperature of 165 ° C to about 195 ° C for about 3 seconds to about 60 seconds using dry heat. For circular knitting and warp knitting A preferred thermal activation procedure for knitted and woven fabrics, such as denim, involves exposure to temperatures from about 110 ° C to about 200 ° C (including from about 160 ° C to about 180 ° C) for about 30 seconds using dry heat. To about 5 minutes.

Thermal activation procedures can be performed in the fabrics of the fabric, finished fabrics, and fabric inlays during garment manufacturing or cutting and stitching of the final garment. It is also possible to apply a thermal activation procedure on the entire piece of fabric or on some parts or points of the fabric. Typical processing conditions are 60 ° C to 180 ° C for 1 to 4 minutes. Program methods include pressing, laminating, oven, tent, hot plate or other methods. Heat treatment can be achieved by simply subjecting the dry fabric to a temperature between 100 ° C and 200 ° C for 1 to 2 minutes (a very simple step). It can also be processed under different patterns under complex temperature profiles.

The thermal activation procedure can be incorporated into the garment during its construction. Dyeing and finishing of garments can be performed before or after the combination of garments with shaping effects. There are certain benefits to forming shaped areas before fabric finishing. An example is one in which denim fabrics tend to shrink when included in fabric finishing. During clothing wear, growth often occurs. By including the shaped area, in addition to the benefits of flat and smooth fabric surfaces, it also resists fabric growth. Garment dyeing and finishing procedures improve elastic properties (including the modulus of the fabric).

Other forms of thermal activation procedures are also available, including (but not limited to) microwave, infrared, conductive, ultrasonic, and laser technologies. The choice of machine sizing for each technology is mainly based on low melting behavior and fabric performance requirements. Among them, the density or power density of laser energy and the scanning speed are the most important for laser technology.

The fabric is exposed to a variety of process conditions, including exposure to heat and / or pressure. Therefore, in some embodiments, a separate heat setting / fusion process is not required, as the heat setting of the fabric will also cause the yarn to fuse. If heat setting is required, consider using lower temperature and short time.

Due to the adhesive force and the interlocking structure, the fabric of the present invention has better visual effects and exhibits a flat and smooth surface appearance. The fabric of the present invention has elastic fiber seam slippage and dethreading And a lower tendency for fabric bending. It also prevents slipping and dethreading and bending of the seams between the elastic fibers and adjacent fibers after the thermal activation procedure. Low-melting fiber can withstand repeated washing in fabric and garment finishing procedures and home washing.

In one embodiment, the low-melting fibers have a softer feel compared to conventional textile fibers. If the content of low-melting fibers is too high, this can become rougher after the thermal activation procedure. In contrast, when the low-melting fiber content is less than 1%, the fabric cannot deliver good easy-setting performance and good shaping performance. A certain low-melting polymer has a high liquid absorption of the dye. The low-melting fibers may have a darker color than the rigid fibers in the fabric. Surprisingly, it has been found that low-melting fibers with optimal weight content can be hidden inside the fabric and not appear in the surface of the fabric. The preferred content of low-melting fibers is between about 1% to about 55% of the total fabric weight. In the preferred content range, the low-melting fiber is invisible or substantially invisible and cannot be touched from the back and surface of the fabric. The appearance and feel of the fabric does not change significantly. Hide low-melting fibers during clothing. Unlike film or fabric lamination and additional inserts and special weaving and knitting structures, low-melting fibers do not form a film or a different appearance on the surface of the fabric. When using low-melting fibers, the fibers are buried inside the fabric body, which avoids unpleasant flashes and rubbery touch surfaces. The fiber is also invisible from the outside and inside of garments with good breathing ability.

Various fibers and yarns can be used with the fabrics and garments of certain embodiments. These include cotton, wool, acrylic, polyamide (Nylon), polyester, spandex, cellulose, rubber (natural or synthetic), bamboo, silk, soybean, or a combination thereof.

In addition, garments including shaped regions can be molded. For example, fabrics can be molded under conditions suitable for rigid fibers in the fabric. In addition, molding may be possible at a temperature at which the shaped article will be molded but below a temperature suitable for molding rigid fibers. Examples of clothing or apparel that includes shaped areas that fall within the scope of the present invention include, but are not limited to: jeans, pants, khakis, leggings, women's shirts, and the like.

Analytical method

In the following examples, the following analysis methods were used.

Fabric elongation (stretch)

The fabric is evaluated at a specified load (i.e., force) in the elongation direction of the fabric (the direction in which it is a composite yarn (i.e., weft, warp, or weft and warp)) at% elongation. Three samples of 20 cm x 6.5 cm were cut from the fabric. The long dimension (25cm) corresponds to the telescopic direction. The samples were partially disassembled to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. The samples were then conditioned for at least 16 hours at 20 ° C +/- 2 ° C and 65% +/- 2% relative humidity.

At 6.5 cm from the sample end, a first datum is made across the width of each sample. At 20.0 cm from the first datum, a second datum was made across the sample width. The excess fabric from the second datum to the other end of the sample is used to form and stitch a loop into which a metal pin can be inserted. A notch is then cut into the coil so that weight can be attached to the metal pin.

Clamp the sample without coil ends and hang the fabric sample vertically. A 30 Newton (N) weight (6.74LB) is attached to the metal pin through a hanging fabric coil, allowing the fabric sample to expand and contract by weight. "Practice" the sample by allowing the sample to stretch by weight for three seconds and then manually reducing the force by lifting the weight. Perform this cycle three times. This weight is then allowed to hang freely, thus stretching the fabric sample. Measure the distance in millimeters between two datums while the fabric is under load, and specify this distance as ML. The original distance between the fiducials (that is, the unstretched distance) is designated as GL. The% fabric elongation of each individual sample is calculated as follows:% elongation (E%) = ((ML-GL) / GL) × 100

The three elongation results are averaged to arrive at the final result.

Fabric growth (does not return to stretch)

After stretching, the non-growing fabric will accurately return to its original length before stretching. However, in general, the stretch fabric will not fully recover and will be slightly longer after extended stretch. This slight increase in length is called "growth."

The aforementioned fabric elongation test must be completed before the growth test. Test fabric extension only Shrink direction. For bidirectional stretch fabrics, test in both directions. Three samples were cut from the fabric, each sample was 25.0 cm x 6.0 cm. These samples are different from those used in the elongation test. The 25.0cm direction should correspond to the telescopic direction. The samples were partially disassembled to reduce the sample width to 5.0 cm. Condition the sample at the same temperature and humidity as in the elongation test described above. Pull across the width of the sample to accurately separate the two fiducials of 20 cm.

The known elongation% (E%) from the elongation test was used to calculate the length of the sample at 80% of this known elongation. This calculation is E (length) at 80% = (E% / 100) × 0.80 × L, where L is the original length between the fiducials (ie, 20.0 cm). Clamp the two ends of the sample and expand and contract the sample until the length between the fiducials is equal to L + E (length) (as calculated above). This telescoping was maintained for 30 minutes, after which time the telescoping force was released and the sample was allowed to hang and relax freely. After 60 minutes, the% growth was measured as% growth = (L2 × 100) / L, where L2 is the increase in length between the fiducials of the sample after relaxation and the original length between the L fiducials. This% growth of each sample was measured and the results were averaged to determine the number of growths.

Fabric reply

Fabric recovery means that the fabric is able to recover to its original length after deformation from elongation or tensile stress. It is expressed as a percentage of the increased stretch length of the fabric under tension to the length of the fabric after the elongation or tensile stress is released. It can be calculated from fabric stretching and fabric growth.

Woven fabric shrinkage

The fabric shrinkage was measured after washing. The fabric was first adjusted at the same temperature and humidity as in the elongation and growth test and then two samples (60 cm x 60 cm) were cut from the fabric. Keep the sample at least 15 cm away from the selvedge. Mark a 40cm × 40cm square box on the fabric sample.

The sample is washed in a washing machine together with the sample and the loaded fabric. Total washer load It is 2kg of air-dried material, and no more than half of the washing consists of test samples. Washing is performed gently at 40 ° C and rotating. Use detergents in an amount of 1 g / l to 3 g / l, depending on the water hardness. The sample was laid on a flat surface until dry, and then the sample was conditioned for 16 hours at 20 ° C +/- 2 ° C and 65% relative humidity (+/- 2% rh).

Then, by measuring the distance between the marks, the shrinkage rate of the fabric sample is measured in the warp knitting and weft knitting directions. The shrinkage rate C% after washing is calculated as C% = ((L1-L2) / L1) × 100, where L1 is the original distance between the marks (40cm) and L2 is the distance after drying. The results of the samples are averaged and the results of the weft and warp knitting directions are reported. Negative shrinkage numbers reflect swelling, which is possible in some cases due to hard yarn behavior.

Fabric weight

A 10 cm diameter die was used to die punch the woven fabric samples. The weight of each cut of the woven fabric sample is weighed. "Fabric weight" is then calculated as grams per square meter.

Elastic fiber seam slip

Fabric samples were tested under standardized conditions of temperature, time, and mechanical effects to reproduce the elastic fiber slippage that occurs in industrial garment washing and home washing. Subsequently, the elastic fiber slippage was measured according to the standard procedures shown. Two representative 50 x 50 cm fabric samples were prepared that were cut parallel to the length and width of the fabric. Each sample should contain different groups of warp and weft knitted yarns. The specimen shall be marked to indicate the warp knitting direction.

The following conditions should be used to lock each sample to prevent the burrs from being disassembled during washing: suture needle: 100-110 SUK system; suture: 30Nm / 3 pile for both needle and bottom thread; line step density: 3 To 4 linear steps / cm.

Wash and dry fabric samples in the following conditions: Washing machine: similar to Tupesa TSP-15, 1 vertical machine with a single 75 cm diameter compartment; bath temperature: 98 ° C; program time: 90 minutes; liquid ratio: 1/8 ; Machine speed: 25 to 28rp; PH: 10; salt: 20gr / l; drying temperature: 90 ° C.

After washing and tumble drying, the samples were conditioned by placing each sample in a single layer for at least 16 hours. Slightly iron the sample to facilitate measurement.

Measure the slippage of the elastic fiber seam by: selecting two points to mark and cut the fabric along both sides of the sample in the direction of warp knitting and / or weft knitting. At each point, cut 5 cm along the width and / or length of the fabric and carefully remove the hem stitching thread. Under the fabric inspection light, weft-knitted yarns and / or warp-knitted yarns were removed from the area above 5.0 cm and the warp-knitted / weft-knitted elastic fibers were observed. It is sometimes necessary to untwist the covered yarn to find elastic fibers. Stop the removal of weft / warp yarns as soon as the elastic fibers appear. Measure the distance from the edge of the fabric to the elastic position. The average of this distance between the two samples is considered as elastic fiber slippage in centimeters.

Examples

The following examples demonstrate the invention and its ability to be used in the manufacture of various fabrics. The invention is capable of other and different embodiments, and its several details can be modified in various obvious respects, all without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. Examples are therefore considered to be illustrative rather than restrictive in nature.

For each of the following denim fabric examples, 100% cotton open-end spinning yarns or ring-spun yarns were used as ring warp-knitted yarns. For denim fabric, it contains two yarns: 7.0Ne OE yarn and 8.5Ne OE yarn, with irregularly arranged patterns. The yarn is dyed indigo in rope form before winding. It is then sized and formed into a braided warp beam.

Several composite yarns with elastic fibers and low-melting fibers are used as weft-knitted yarns. A variety of composite yarns, including single-layer coating, air-jet coating, and double-core spinning. Table 1 lists the materials and procedures used to make the composite yarn for each example. Tables 2 and 3 show the detailed fabric structure and performance profile of woven and knitted fabrics. Lycra® spandex is available from Invista, s.á.r.L. in Wichita, Kansas, USA. For example, in the column header, spandex 40D means 40 denier; 3.5X means the draft (machine draft) of Lycra® applied by the core spinning machine. The low-melting two-component system is manufactured by Huvis. Low-melt polyolefin fibers are manufactured by Invista, s.á.r.L. of Wichita, Kansas, USA. In the column header "Rigid Yarn", 20 ’s is like The linear density of the spun yarn measured by the number of inch cotton counts. Clearly mark the remaining items in Table 1, Table 2 and Table 3.

The composite yarn of each example was subsequently used to make a stretch woven fabric. Table 2 summarizes the yarns, weaving patterns used in the fabric, and the quality characteristics of the fabric. Some additional notes to each of the examples are given below. Unless stated otherwise, fabrics are woven on a Donier air-jet loom or a rapier loom. The speed of the loom is 500 shuttles / minute. The fabric is 3/1 twill. The width of the fabric is about 76 inches and about 72 inches in the loom and grey fabric state, respectively. The loom has double warp beam capacity.

Each grey fabric in the examples was completed by a swing dyeing machine. Each knitted fabric was pre-rinsed with 3.0% by weight of Lubit® 64 (Sybron) at 49 ° C for 10 minutes. After that, it was desalted with 6.0 wt% Synthazyme® (Dooley Chemicals. LLC) and 2.0 wt% Merpol® LFH (EI DuPont) at 71 ° C for 30 minutes and then 3.0 wt% Lubit® at 82 ° C. 64. 0.5% by weight Merpol® LFH and 0.5% by weight trisodium phosphate rinse it for 30 minutes.

Example 1: Low-melting fiber: bicomponent fiber

The low-melting fiber LOMELA ^™ manufactured by HUVIS is used to make the composition yarns and fabrics. LOMELA (TM) is a low melting bicomponent filament with a core and sheath structure. The sheath is a low-melting polymer and the core is a conventional polyester fiber. During the thermal activation process, the fibers can easily form a bonding function in which a stable form is required. The yarn is 75 denier and 36 filaments. The melting temperature is 165 ° C for the sheath component part. When the heating temperature is lower than 150 ° C, the appearance and behavior of the fiber are the same as those of conventional polyester fibers. When the temperature reaches 150 ° C or higher, the low melting sheath starts to soften and melt. When the temperature reached 165 ° C, the sheath portion was completely melted and fused with the core fiber. Individual 36 filaments are fused and bonded together to form a single wire harness. It is also connected and bonded to adjacent rigid fibers and elastic yarns to form a crosslinked structure within the fabric.

Example 2: Low-melting fiber: monocomponent fiber

Monocomponent fibers including "polyolefin" polymers are used as low-melting fibers. The fiber Spin a filament into 40D. The fibers started to melt at 135.65 ° C and reached a melting peak at 146.26 ° C. The thermal activation procedure can be performed in a temperature range from about 120 ° C for a period of 5 seconds to several minutes. After melting, it bonds with adjacent rigid fibers and elastic fibers to form a crosslinked structure within the fabric.

Example 3: Single yarn covering yarn

Wrap 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn around the core of 40D LYCRA® fiber. LYCRA® fibers protrude at 3.0X during cladding. Because of the low melting bicomponent fiber, the yarn has high recovery and glossy beauty on the surface. This covered yarn can be used in hosiery, pantyhose, socks, and knitting and knitting applications.

Example 4: Air-jet coated yarn with two fibers

75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn is entangled around the core of 70D LYCRA® fiber using air-jet nozzles. LYCRA® fibers have a draft of 3.3X during cladding. Intertwined knots are tied at 75 knots per meter. The air pressure is 4 bar and the processing speed is 650 meters per minute. Yarn can be used in hosiery, pantyhose, socks and knitwear. It can also be used as the core of core-spun yarn covered with cotton or other short fibers.

Example 5: Air-jet coated yarn with three fibers

140D / 144f polyester filament and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn are entangled with the core of 40D LYCRA® fiber by using air-jet nozzle. LYCRA® fibers have a draft of 3.3X during cladding. Three yarns are interwoven at 96 knots per meter. The air pressure is 4.5 bar and the processing speed is 650 meters per minute. Yarns can be used for weft-knitted yarns in knitted fabrics.

Example 6: Air-jet coated yarn with two elastic yarns

150D / 68f LYCRA® T400® polyester bicomponent fiber and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn are entangled with 40D LYCRA® fiber by using air-jet nozzle. LYCRA® fibers have a draft of 3.3X during cladding. Three yarns are interwoven at 82 knots per meter. The air pressure is 4.5 bar and the processing speed is 650 meters per minute. Yarns can be used for weft-knitted yarns in knitted fabrics. Since LYCRA® T400® fiber is also an elastic yarn, this composite yarn The line has extremely good restoring power and telescopic level.

Example 7: Air-jet coated yarn with 70D elastic fibers

140D / 144f polyester filament and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn are entangled with the core of 70D LYCRA® fiber by using air-jet nozzle. LYCRA® fibers have a draft of 3.3X during cladding. Three yarns are interwoven at 90 knots per meter. The air pressure is 4.5 bar and the processing speed is 650 meters per minute. Compared to Sample 5, this yarn is stronger due to the use of more LYCRA® fibers. Yarns can be used for weft-knitted yarns in heavier weight knitted fabrics, such as denim.

Example 8: Core-spun yarn with AJY yarn

The core yarn was first produced in the manner explained in Example 4. It is a 70D LYCRA® fiber with 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent air-jet coated yarn. Then, a cotton sheath fiber is spun around this core yarn in a core spinning machine. During the core spinning process, the core yarn is kept in an upright form, so it can be maintained in the center of the yarn without being exposed. For the 4 TM twister level, the yarn is 16s (imperial counter). It can be used as a weft-knitted yarn for knitted fabrics such as khaki and denim.

Example 9: Double core-spun yarn

The core yarn has two filaments: 105D LYCRA® fiber and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent fiber. Sheath fibers are cotton fibers. Cotton fibers are spun together around these two core yarns in a core spinning machine with a dual delivery device. During the core spinning process, 105D LYCRA® fibers and 75D / 36f low-melting bicomponent fibers are fed into the machine and twisted together, but they have different drafting levels. LYCRA® fibers are drafted at 3.8X times their original length; low-melting fibers are only drafted at 1.05X. For 4 TM twisting machine level, the total yarn count is 16s (English count). It can be used as a weft-knitted yarn of knitted fabrics.

Example 10: Double core-spun yarn with elastic polyolefin

The core yarn has two filaments: 40D LYCRA® fiber and 40D low-melt polyolefin fiber, as explained in Example 2. Sheath fibers are cotton fibers. In a package with dual delivery devices In a core spinning machine, cotton fibers are spun together around these two core yarns. During the core spinning process, 70D LYCRA® fibers and 40D low-melt monocomponent polyolefin fibers were fed into the machine and twisted together, but LYCRA® fibers were drawn to 3.5X times their original length. For 4 TM twisting machine level, the total yarn count is 16s (English count). It can be used as a weft-knitted yarn of knitted fabrics.

Example 11: Stretch weaving including low-melting fibers

The warp-knitted yarns are 7.0Ne count and 8.4Ne count mixed start yarns. Warp-knitted yarns are dyed with indigo before winding. The fabric is woven with a 3/1 twill structure, 64 ends, 54 shuttles per inch, and 76 inches in width. The weft-knitted yarn is a cotton sheath 16S double core-spun yarn. The core yarn has two types of filaments: 70D LYCRA® fiber and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent fiber. Cotton fibers are spun together around these two core yarns in a core spinning machine. During the core spinning process, 70D LYCRA® fibers and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent fibers are fed into the machine, twisted together, but they have different drafting levels. LYCRA® fibers are drafted at 3.8X times their original length; low-melting fibers are only drafted at 1.05X.

Table 2 lists the fabric performance after the normal finishing procedure and after the thermal activation procedure. It can be seen that the fabric has good expansion (41.1%), good recovery (75.1%) and low shrinkage (8.56%) after the normal finishing procedure.

When garments are made from fabrics following a normal finishing procedure, fabrics in specific key areas (such as in the hip shaping area, thin thigh shaping area, and belly flattening area) are additionally heat treated at 182 ° C during the heat activation procedure For 45 seconds, the fabric stretch, recovery and shrinkage along the weft direction become 12.5%, 82% and 0%, respectively. The fabric expansion and contraction level will decrease and the holding force will increase, which can provide a shaping effect on the garment. The fabric has no exposed portions. Elastic filaments and low-melting fibers are not seen from both the surface of the fabric and the back of the fabric.

Example 12: Stretch weaving including low-melting fibers

This fabric has the same material and fabric structure as the strength 11. The difference is only the double core yarn structure. In Example 11, two core fibers, 70D LYCRA® fiber and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent fiber, were fed directly from a bare yarn package into a core spinning yarn machine. In Example 12, two core fibers, 70D LYCRA® fiber and 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent fiber, were interwoven first (as explained in Example 4). This air-covered yarn was then fed into a core-spun yarn machine and a core covered with acting cotton (as explained in Example 8).

The fabric performance after the normal finishing procedure and after the thermal activation procedure is shown in Table 2. This fabric also has high stretch (55.8%), low growth (3.2%), good recovery (92.8%), and low shrinkage (6.68%) after the normal finishing process. After a thermal activation procedure at 182 ° C for 45 seconds, the fabric expansion, contraction, growth, recovery, and shrinkage along the weft-knitting direction became 9.0%, 1.3%, 81.9%, and 0%, respectively. This fabric also has a shaping function.

Example 13: Stretch knitting with air-jet coated yarn

The warp-knitted yarn system was the same as in Examples 11 and 12. Weft-knitted yarns are air-jet coated yarns with the following three types of fibers: 140D / 144f polyester filament, 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn, and 70D LYCRA® fiber. The three yarns are entangled through the air-jet nozzle, as explained in Example 7. The fabric expansion, contraction, growth, recovery and shrinkage along the weft-knitting direction were 51.2%, 3.5%, 91.5%, and 11.08% after the normal finishing process. The thermal activation procedure was performed in a press having a temperature of 160 ° C, 60 seconds and a pressure of 2 bar. After this procedure, the fabric stretch level (28.7%) decreased sharply, but the fabric recovery force (83.4%) did not change much.

This example shows that air-jet coated yarns with low-melting fibers can also be shaped. The fabric can be stabilized at a temperature lower than the heat-setting temperature of the elastic fiber.

Example 14: Stretch denim with two kinds of elastic fibers

This sample has the same fabric structure as in Example 13. The only difference is the use of 150D LYCRA® T400® fiber in weft knitting. Weft-knitted yarns contain bi-elastic fibers: 40D LYCRA® fiber with 3.5X draft and 150D LYCRA® T400® fiber. The three types of fibers are entangled through air nozzles, as explained in Example 6. Table 2 summarizes the fabric test results. It clearly shows that this sample has good stretch (44.7%) and lower fabric growth level (3.0%) and extremely good fabric recovery (91.6%). Therefore, by using two different elastic fibers in the same yarn, the covered yarn and fabric can achieve different characteristics.

This fabric containing two types of elastic fibers can also be made with a shaping function before and after the thermal activation procedure, as shown in the information in Table 2. After the thermal activation procedure, the fabric stretch level was reduced to 23.2%, while the growth and recovery were 3.2% and 82.8%.

Example 15: Stretch fabric with common shuttle weft

This sample has the same warp-knitted yarn as the above example. The use of weft-knitting yarns of different weaving techniques. During weaving, 14s cotton, 40D LYCRA® fiber-spun yarn and 75D low-melt bicomponent yarn are simultaneously shuttled into the weft knitting. These two yarns are separated and not connected together before weaving. They are shuttled from different packages into the same knitting shed. The fabric stretch performance before and after heat activation is shown in Table 2.

It is interesting to find that low-melting fibers can still provide bonding and shaping functions under this structure, even if the low-melting yarn does not have a contact point with the elastic yarn covered by cotton.

Example 16: Stretch fabric with bi-elastic yarn

In this example, weft-knitted yarns are co-fed yarns: air-jet coated yarns of 75D low-melt bicomponent yarn plus 150D LYCRA® T400® fiber and 40D LYCRA® spandex fiber (explained in Example 6) Of yarn). The other fabric structure is the same as the above-mentioned denim example. The fabric has extremely high stretch and strong restoring force. After normal finishing procedure, weft direction The expansion, contraction, growth, recovery and contraction rates were 45.1%, 2.7%, 92.5% and 9.4%, respectively. Fabric growth is only 2.7%, which indicates that low-melting fibers will not negatively affect fabric recovery.

Example 17: Stretch fabric with spandex and elastic polyolefin fibers

The warp-knitted yarns are 7.0Ne count and 8.4Ne count mixed start yarns. Warp-knitted yarns are dyed with indigo before winding. Weft-knitted yarns are 16Ne core-spun yarns with 40D T162B Lycra® spandex and 40D polyolefin fibers in the core. Lycra® fibers have a draft of 3.5X and are fed into the twisting zone with the polyolefin fibers during the core spinning coating process. Table 2 lists the fabric properties. Fabrics made from these yarns exhibit good cotton feel, good stretch (45.5%), low growth (5.7%), and good recovery (84.3%). The fabric has no exposed portions. Elastic filaments are not seen from both the surface of the fabric and the back of the fabric.

The fabric insert is thermally activated in the press in the thigh area of the legs of jeans. The thermal conditions were 160 ° C for 1 minute at a pressure of 2 bar. After this procedure, fabric expansion, growth, and recovery became 39.3%, 5.3%, and 83.1%, respectively. Therefore, it can be seen that the denim fabric expands and contracts to reduce the size and shape of the fabric. The denim in the shaping zone can limit the deformation of the denim by adding low-melting fibers, providing higher compression on the human body, and forming the shaping effect of pants, jeans and leggings.

Example 18: Cylindrical knitted denim with low-melting fibers

It is a novel fabric. The fabric is a cylindrical knitted denim fabric with a weaving effect, which contains two groups of yarns: a fancy yarn for the surface and a bottom yarn for the back. Fancy yarns are two 30S cotton yarns dyed with indigo. The base yarn includes 75D / 36f low-melt bicomponent yarn and 70D T162C LYCRA® spandex fiber.

Knit the fabric on a Monarch cylinder knitting machine model F-SEC-U / ST electric Jacque machine with a 32 inch cylinder diameter, 28 gauges (number of stitches per circle inch) and 2958 stitches, And 48 yarn feed positions. The cylinder knitting machine is operated at 16 revolutions per minute (rpm). Measured with Iro Memminger Digital Tensiometer MPF40GIF (Model MER10) Supply LYCRA® fiber feed tension between package and roller guide. LYCRA® fiber feed tension is maintained at 7 grams. The tension of the low-melting fiber is about 8 to 9 grams. The tension of indigo yarn is about 6 to 7 grams. After the normal finishing procedure, 70% and 30.1% of the fabric stretch along the warp and weft directions with growth (8.9% x 5.2% in the warp direction × weft direction). The surface of the fabric is ½ twill and the flat stitch coil base is plain single-sided flat stitch. This knitted fabric has a knitted appearance and performance, and is suitable for use in jean.

In some locations of this sample, heat and pressure were added to the press: 160 ° C for 1 minute at 2 bar pressure. After this thermal activation procedure, the fabric stretches, grows, and recovers: warp knitting direction, 20.5%, 2.9%, and 82.6%; weft loop direction, 33.55, 5.2%, and 80.3%. Clothing made from this fabric can have a shaping effect. In critical areas, high restraint can be used to reduce fabric expansion.

Example 19: Cotton-cylinder knitted fabric with low-melting fibers

Cylindrical knitted fabrics are single jersey with the following three fibers: 50S supima cotton, 40D T162C LYCRA® fiber and 75D / 34f low-melt bicomponent yarn. Three yarns are added to the fabric together and knitted into single-sided flat needles. The content of elastic fibers and low-melting fibers in the fabric were 6.3% and 37.3%, respectively. The fabric has a good cotton feel and appearance and is a good fabric T-shirt, underpants and casual wear. The fabric is heat set at various temperatures before being dyed blue. The stretch levels (machine direction × transverse machine direction) of the fabrics without heat setting, heat setting at 140 ° C, heat setting at 150 ° C, and heat setting at 160 ° C (machine direction × transverse machine direction) are: 131% × 99%, 116% × 93%, 100% × 89%, and 45% × 50%. The weight of the fabric after these procedures: 12.902OZ / Y ^ 2, 10.913OZ / Y ^ 2, 10.394OZ / Y ^ 2 and 7.952OZ / Y ^ 2.

From these results, it can be seen that when the fabric is treated at about 160 ° C, the fabric is well-set, and the fabric expansion and contraction level decreases sharply and has a light weight. It clearly demonstrates that fabrics including low-melting fibers can be heat-set at temperatures well below the temperatures used to heat-set elastic fibers. The heat setting temperature of T162C LYCRA® fiber is about 195 ° C.

Example 20: Polyester cylindrical knitted fabric with low-melting fibers

Cylindrical knitted fabrics are single jersey fabrics with the following three fibers: 70d / 72f textured polyester, 40D T162C LYCRA® fiber, and 75D / 34f low-melt bicomponent yarn. Three yarns are added to the fabric together and knitted into single-sided flat needles. The content of elastic fibers and low-melting fibers in the fabric was 7.8% and 46.1%, respectively. The fabric is good for sports and casual wear. The fabric is heat set at various temperatures before being dyed black with a disperse dye. The stretch levels (machine direction × transverse machine direction) of the fabric without heat setting, heat setting at 140 ° C, heat setting at 150 ° C, and heat setting at 160 ° C (machine direction × transverse machine direction) are: 140% × 117% , 125% × 109%, 121% × 106%, and 55% × 62%. The weight of the fabric after these procedures: 12.323OZ / Y ^ 2, 11.816OZ / Y ^ 2, 10.688OZ / Y ^ 2 and 8.333OZ / Y ^ 2.

As the heat setting temperature increases, the fabric stretch decreases. When the fabric is heat-set at about 160 ° C, the fabric is well-set and the fabric stretch level is significantly reduced. It indicates that fabrics including low-melting fibers can be heat-set at temperatures well below the temperature used to heat-set elastic fibers. When heat is applied in predetermined zones, the fabric has a significantly low stretch level in these zones.

Example 21: Seamless fabric containing low-melting fibers

This fabric is made in Santoni seamless machines. The fabric is not heat-set. This knitted fabric is a plain twill fabric with the following three fibers: 50S cotton, 30D T162CLYCRA® fiber and 75D / 34f low-melt bicomponent yarn. The cotton yarn forms a fabric surface, and the elastic yarn and the low-melting yarn are added together to form a fabric base. The content of elastic fibers and low-melting fibers in the fabric was 6.3% and 34.2%, respectively.

Exemplary fabrics were manufactured by circular knitting using SMA-8-TOP seamless, 28-inch body size, knitting machine (hereinafter, "SANTONI knitting machine") from SANTONI (from GRUPPO LONATI, Italy). In the manufacture of novel fabrics, a combination of different knitted constructions using various types of yarns is used. The machine appliances There are 8 yarn feed positions. It operates at 70 revolutions per minute (rpm). BTSR® digital tension meter (model KTF-100HP) was used to measure the spandex yarn tension. The spandex feed tension was maintained at 1 g for every 10 denier spandex. The tension device used for non-elastic elastic yarns and hard yarns is IRO Memminger of model ROJ Tricot.

The fabric expansion and contraction system along the warp and weft loops is 100% x 79%. To obtain a shaping effect, a heat-treated garment was applied in front of the abdominal position at 155 ° C. for 45 seconds under a pressure of 2 bar. After this thermal activation procedure, the fabric expansion level along the warp and weft loops became 56% x 43%. The fabric provides retention and restraint functions in these positions.

Example 22: Seamless fabric containing low-melting fibers

This fabric is made in Santoni seamless machines. This knitted fabric is a jersey with the appearance of a woven fabric, which is composed of the following three fibers: 60S cotton, 20D T162C LYCRA® fiber, and 75D / 34f low-melt bicomponent yarn. Three yarns are added to the fabric together and knitted into single-sided flat needles. The content of elastic fibers and low-melting fibers in the fabric was 4.8% and 38.9%, respectively. The fabric expansion and contraction system along the warp and weft loops is 118% × 99%. To obtain a shaping effect, heat-treated garments were applied on both sides of the waist region at 150 ° C. for 45 seconds under a pressure of 2 bar. After this thermal activation procedure, the fabric expansion and contraction level in the warp and weft directions becomes 76% × 63%. The fabric has a higher holding force in the waist region to obtain a better slimming effect.

Example 23: socks

The top of the socks is made of the following three types of fiber: rigid yarn, 30S 927W COOLMAX® fiber spinning yarn; elastic yarn, 120D T902C double-covered elastic composite yarn; low-melting yarn: 75d / 36f low-melting double Component yarn. Add elastic yarn and low-melting yarn in a 1/1 mosaic structure. Socks' feet are also made of the following three types of yarns: rigid 30S 927W COOLMAX® fiber spinning yarn, which is elastic and flat in plain weave structure with 18D T178C LYCRA® fiber / 44D / 34f nylon 6 air-covered yarn Yarn with 75D / 36F low-melt bicomponent yarn. Socks are knitted with 200 stitches.

After finishing, the socks have a stretch of 112% × 232% and 127.5% × 184.0% in the top and in the feet (machine direction% × transverse machine direction%). Some parts of the socks were heat treated at 150 ° C for 60 seconds under the press. After the heat treatment, the expansion and contraction levels in the top and foot areas became 92% × 200% and 94% × 97%, respectively. Therefore, this novel method can be used to add local compression zones to socks. Socks have a non-slip effect that can more reliably have a high coefficient of friction in these treated zones than in other zones.

Example 24: Pantyhose

Pantyhose is made of 15D LYCRA® fiber with 10/7 nylon single-covered yarn plus 75D / 36F low-melt bicomponent yarn. Knit structure is jersey. In the middle of the legs, the fabric was pressed at 150 ° C for 45 seconds. The expansion and contraction levels in this area prior to the thermal activation procedure in the machine and transverse machine directions were 139% x 137%. After the hot pressing process, the fabric stretch system in the machine and transverse machine directions is 94% × 97%. In addition, it was found that in the heat-treated zone, spandex has better anti-threading and anti-drawing performance in the cutting holes. Fused and fused low-melt polymers are bonded together with spandex to prevent them from being stripped.

Claims (30)

An elastic fabric having easy-setting and shape-reinforcing properties, comprising a first type of fiber, a second type of fiber, and a third type of fiber; the first type of fiber is a rigid fiber, and the second type of fiber is elastic Fiber, and the third type of fiber is a low-melting fiber; the rigid fiber forms the main body of the fabric; wherein i) the low-melting fiber includes a member selected from the group consisting of polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, and polypropylene Low melting polymer; ii) the melting temperature of the low melting fiber is between about 60 ° C and 200 ° C; iii) the content of the low melting fiber is not less than 0.5% and not more than 55% of the weight of the fabric. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the low-melting fiber is a filament from 10 denier to 450 denier. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the low-melting fiber is a short fiber having a fineness from 0.5 denier to 10 denier. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the low-melting fiber is a monopolymer. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the low-melting fiber is bicomponent. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the low-melting fiber is a bicomponent filament having a sheath-core structure, wherein the sheath comprises a low-melting polymer, and the fineness of the filament is higher than 10 denier, but not higher than 450 denier Neh. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the melting temperature of the low-melting fiber is about 100 ° C to about 185 ° C. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric comprises spandex elastic fibers. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric comprises polyester bicomponent elastic fibers. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric can be heat-set at a temperature below 180 ° C. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric has a structure selected from the group consisting of knitting, circular knitting, warp knitting, socks and seamless structures. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric comprises a woven fabric having the rigid fiber as a sheath and a double core-spun spinning yarn having the elastic fiber and the low-melting fiber as a core. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric comprising air-covered yarns having the elastic fibers and the low-melting fibers and optionally the rigid fibers. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric having an alternating or co-shuttle structure comprising the rigid fiber, the elastic fiber as the core, and the low-melting fiber. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a cylindrical knitted fabric having a yarn adding structure including the rigid fibers, the elastic fibers, and the low-melting fibers. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a warp knitted fabric comprising the rigid fibers, the elastic fibers, and the low-melting fibers. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a sock comprising the rigid fiber, the elastic fiber, and the low-melting fiber. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric provides performance enhancements including enhancements in durability, abrasion resistance, wrinkle resistance, anti-elastic slippage, anti-drawing and dethreading, and anti-bending. A garment comprising a fabric as claimed in claim 1. Apparel as claimed in item 19, which comprises casual clothes, sportswear, work clothes, underwear, such as shorts, and ready-to-wear, such as jeans, shirts, and heavy clothing. The garment of claim 19, wherein the garment is a shaping garment selected from the group consisting of underwear, swimwear, lingerie, leggings, and tights. The garment of claim 19, wherein the garment is jeans, leggings, and khakis. The garment of claim 19, wherein the fabric shaping area is arranged in a zone from the group consisting of hip raising, hip shaping, belly, thin thigh, waist repairing area, and combinations thereof. The garment of claim 19, wherein the stretch level of the shaped region of the fabric is at least 5% lower than that of the fabric in the non-shaped region. The garment of claim 19, wherein the fabric shaping area is placed in a pattern selected from the group consisting of dots, vertical lines, horizontal lines, diagonal lines, grids, and combinations thereof. The garment of claim 19, wherein the fabric shaping region has a gradient edge region. A method of manufacturing a fabric as claimed in claim 1, comprising: adding a low-melting fiber during a spinning or yarn covering or fabric forming process; optionally dyeing or finishing the fabric or garment; and optionally, The fabric is thermally fused in a predetermined position before, during, or after manufacturing. The method of claim 27, wherein a thermal activation procedure is performed on the fabric or fabric inlay before the garment is manufactured. The method of claim 27, wherein the heat fusion temperature is not lower than 60 ° C but not higher than 200 ° C. The method of claim 27, wherein the method of performing the thermal activation procedure is selected from the group consisting of: hot pressing, laminating, oven, awning, ironing, embossing, molding, laser, ultrasonic And above.