RU2778810C2 - Composition for topical application, containing glycerin and yeast extract - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to the cosmetic industry, namely to a composition for topical application for improvement of appearance relatively to at least one sign of skin aging. A composition for topical application for improvement of appearance relatively to at least one sign of skin aging is proposed, containing: from 0.5 to 25 percent by weight of glycerin; from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivate; from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate; and from 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of Pichia anomala extract. At the same time, the composition contains less than 0.1 percent by weight of fatty alcohols and has a form of cream-gel.

EFFECT: above-described composition has an improved effect relatively to at least one sign of skin aging.

5 cl, 2 tbl, 2 ex

Description

Cross references to related applications

The present application claims priority to the benefits of U.S. Provisional Application No. 62/432,945, filed December 12, 2017. The entire disclosure of the aforementioned U.S. patent application is incorporated herein by reference for all purposes.

Scope of the invention

The present invention provides a topical composition comprising (a) 0.5 to 25 weight percent glycerol; (b) from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivatate; (c) 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate; and (d) 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala; wherein the composition is substantially free of fatty alcohols and is in the form of a cream-gel.

Prerequisites for the creation of the invention

Cream gels are a desirable form of hygiene compositions for topical application to the skin. The aesthetic impact of the cream-gel is characterized by the creation of a watery, destructible translucent texture and a slight residual feeling on the skin after application.

NEUTROGENA Hydro Boost Cream Gel is commercially available from Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. and provides a long lasting moisturizing effect. It absorbs quickly into the skin like a gel, but provides long lasting intense hydration like a cream. It contains hyaluronic acid along with glycerin, cetearyl olivat and sorbitan olivat.

US 6,620,420 describes cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water cream gels containing: (i) up to 90 wt. aqueous phase, (ii) up to 20% of the mass. lipid phase based on the total weight of drugs, (iii) up to 5% of the mass. one or more emulsifiers, (iv) also containing up to 5% of the mass. one or more copolymers of ammonium acrylolidimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone ( ^ARISTOFLEX® AVK, available from Clariant GmbH).

Pichia is a genus of yeast in the Saccharomycetaceae family. More than 100 species of this genus are known. The best known species include Pichia anomala, Pichia guilliermondii, Pichia norvegensis and Pichia ohmeri .

Pichia anomala (formerly called Hansenula anomala ) can be found in unboiled milk and cheese. Pichia yeast extracts are high in mannans, polysaccharides composed of mannose monomers. Pichia anomala and mannans are known to be used to treat aging skin. See, for example, FR 2938768, FR 2906719, FR 2897266 and FR 2976490.

PRO-LIPISKIN ^® is a commercially available cosmetic ingredient containing Pichia anomala extract. It is produced using a Pichia strain isolated from sugar cane. It can be purchased from Silab-France.

There is a need for cream-gel formulations with an improved anti-aging effect.

Applicant has found that compositions containing glycerol and yeast extract increase the levels of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) produced by the skin when applied topically to skin requiring signs of aging. In particular, these compositions contain glycerol, cetearyl olivat, sorbitan olivat and Pichia anomala extract, but are substantially free of fatty alcohols, in particular cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, are predominantly synthesized by fibroblasts. It is known that the aging process of the skin leads to a weakening of these metabolic processes, which leads to a decrease in the GAG content of the extracellular matrix of the dermis and a slowdown in cell growth, which leads to negative changes in the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its strength, elasticity, tone and/or firmness.

The applicant has found that the compositions of the invention increase the amount of hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate in the skin after topical application of these compositions to it.

Statement of the Invention

The present invention provides a topical composition comprising (a) 0.5 to 25 weight percent glycerol; (b) from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivatate; (c) 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate; and (d) 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala; wherein the composition is substantially free of fatty alcohols and is in the form of a cream-gel.

Detailed description

It is believed that a person skilled in the art, based on the description presented herein, will be able to use the present invention to the fullest extent. The specific embodiments presented below are to be considered as examples only and do not limit the remainder of the description in any way.

Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the common meaning understood by any average specialist in the field to which the present invention pertains. In addition, all publications, patent applications, patents and other materials mentioned in this document are incorporated herein by reference. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages used to express quantities of ingredients are by weight percentage (i.e., % (w/w)). Similarly, the weight ratios used to express the relative proportions of ingredients are also defined using weight percentages (i.e., weight ratios are calculated by dividing the weight percentage of one ingredient by the weight percentage of the other ingredient). Unless otherwise noted, all ranges are subject to limit values, for example, the range "4 to 9" includes limits 4 and 9.

As used herein, "product" does not necessarily mean the finished product in packaged form. In one embodiment of the invention, the package is a container, such as a plastic, metal or glass tube or jar containing the composition. Also, the product may have additional packaging, such as a plastic or cardboard box, in which said container is placed. In one embodiment, the product includes a composition of the present invention and contains instructions for the consumer to apply the composition to the skin or hair.

As used herein, the term "topical application" means direct application or distribution to the outer surface of the skin, scalp, or hair, for example, by hand or using an applicator such as a tissue, roller, or spray.

As used herein, the term "cosmetic" refers to an appearance enhancing substance or preparation that maintains, restores, imparts, mimics or enhances physical attractiveness, or has an attractive or youthful effect, especially with respect to the appearance of tissue or skin.

As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the ingredients that the term describes are acceptable for use in contact with tissues (e.g., skin or hair) without undesirable toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic reactions or the like.

In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are suitable for the treatment of signs of skin aging. As used herein, the term "signs of skin aging" includes striations and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone, and blotchiness. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a sign of aging is the presence of furrows, wrinkles and/or loss of elasticity.

As used herein, the term "reversal of signs of skin aging" refers to reducing, alleviating, preventing, correcting or eliminating the presence of the signs of skin aging described above.

In this document, the term "wrinkle" refers to fine lines, fine wrinkles or deep wrinkles. Examples of wrinkles include, without limitation, fine lines around the eyes (eg, crow's feet), wrinkles on the forehead and cheeks, brow furrows, and expression lines around the mouth.

As used herein, the term "loss of elasticity" includes loss of elasticity or structural integrity of skin or tissue, including, without limitation, sagging, laxity, and laxity of tissue. Loss of elasticity or integrity of the tissue structure may result from a number of factors, including, but not limited to, disease, aging, hormonal changes, mechanical trauma, environmental stress, or may result from the application of products such as cosmetics or pharmaceuticals to the tissue.

As used herein, the term "uneven skin tone" means a skin condition associated with diffuse or patchy pigmentation, which can be classified as hyperpigmentation, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

As used herein, the term "spotting" refers to a skin condition associated with redness or erythema.

As used herein, the phrase "improving skin strength" means increasing the strength or elasticity of the skin, preventing loss of skin strength or elasticity, or preventing or eliminating skin sagging, laxity and laxity. The strength or elasticity of the skin can be measured with a cutometer. See Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin, eds . J. Serup, G. Jemec & G. Grove, Chapter 66.1 (2006). Loss of elasticity or strength of the skin can be caused by a number of factors, including, but not limited to, aging, environmental damage, or the effects of cosmetics applied to the skin.

As used herein, the term "improving skin texture" means smoothing the surface of the skin to eliminate bulges or depressions on the surface of the skin.

As used herein, the term "improving the appearance of skin wrinkles" means preventing, reducing, halting the progression or reversing the formation of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin.

In this document, the wording "safe and effective amount" means an amount sufficient to initiate the desired effect, but low enough to prevent serious side effects. A safe and effective amount of a compound, extract, or composition will vary depending on, for example, the age, health, and environmental conditions of the end user, the duration and nature of the treatment, the specific extract, ingredient, or composition used, the specific carrier used, and the like.

As used herein, the term "cream-gel" means a formulation with a low content of oil droplets suspended in an aqueous gel matrix.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are suitable for skin care requiring enhanced skin barrier function and hydration. As used herein, "skin in need of enhanced skin barrier function and hydration" refers to skin that is characterized by, without limitation, lack of moisture, lack of sebum, cracking, dryness, itching, flaking, xeroderma, dehydration, lack of firmness, lack of shine, lethargy, or lack of lipid content.

As described herein, Applicants have found to provide a topical composition containing (a) 0.5 to 25 weight percent glycerol; (b) from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivatate; (c) 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate; and (d) 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala; wherein the composition is substantially free of fatty alcohols and is in the form of a cream-gel.

Glycerol

The composition contains from 0.5 to 25 percent by weight of glycerol. In one embodiment, the composition contains from 1 to 6 percent by weight of glycerol.

Cetearylolivat and sorbitanolivat

The composition contains from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivatate. In one embodiment, the composition contains from 0.1 to 2 percent by weight of cetearyl olivatate.

The composition also contains 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate. In one embodiment, the composition contains 0.1 to 2 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate.

A suitable source of cetearyl olivat and sorbitan olivat is ^Olivem® 1000, available from Hallstar Itali.

Yeast extract

The topical composition contains one or more extracts of Pichia anomala . Pichia is a genus of yeast in the Saccharomycetaceae family. More than 100 species of this genus are known. The best known species include Pichia anomala , Pichia guilliermondii , Pichia norvegensis and Pichia ohmeri . Pichia anomala (formerly called Hansenula anomala ) can be found in unboiled milk and cheese. Pichia yeast extracts are high in mannans, polysaccharides composed of mannose monomers. Pichia anomala and mannans are known to be used to treat aging skin. See, for example, FR 2938768, FR 2906719, FR 2897266 and FR 2976490.

In particular, such extracts may be extracts obtained using one of the various strains of Pichia anomala isolated from the fruit or other aerial parts of the plant. Any cosmetically acceptable extract of Pichia anomala may be used.

One example of a suitable extract of Pichia anomala is PRO-LIPISKIN, commercially available from Silab-France. It is made from a strain of Pichia anomala that is present on sugar cane.

Another example of a suitable extract of Pichia anomala is obtained from a strain of Pichia anomala found on kiwi fruits or leaves.

Both of the above extracts can be provided as aqueous solutions with a dry matter content in the range of about 20%, more specifically 2 to 10%, most specifically 3 to 7%. Accordingly, the composition may contain from 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of Pichia anomala extract.

PRO-LIPISKIN ^® is a commercially available cosmetic ingredient containing Pichia anomala extract. It is obtained using a Pichia strain isolated from sugar cane. It can be purchased from Silab-France.

In one embodiment, the composition is substantially free of fatty alcohols. In particular, the composition is substantially free of cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. As used herein, the term "substantially free" means less than 0.1 percent by weight, or less than 0.01 percent by weight, or the absence of an ingredient. In one embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. In another embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain fatty alcohols.

In another embodiment, the composition has a pH value of less than 7.

Additional cosmetic active agents

The compositions of the present invention may further contain any of various additional cosmetically active agents. Examples of suitable additional active agents include skin lightening agents, darkening agents, additional anti-aging agents, tropoelastin stimulators, collagen stimulators, anti-acne agents, skin radiance control agents, antimicrobial agents such as anti-yeast agents, antifungal and antibacterial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antiparasitic agents, topical analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotectors, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, detergents/surfactants, humectants, nutrients, vitamins, energy boosting agents, antiperspirants, pore-refining agents, deodorants, hair removers , hair growth enhancing agents, hair growth retardants, thickeners, hydration enhancers, performance enhancers, anti-roughness agents, skin conditioning agents, anti-cellulite agents, odor control agents such as odor masking agents or pH changing agents and the like.

Examples of various suitable additional cosmetically acceptable active agents include hydroxy acids; benzoyl peroxide; D-panthenol; UV filters such as, but not limited to, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), disodium bisdisulizole (Neo Heliopan AP), diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ecamsul (Mexoryl SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T 150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octylmethoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), octyl salicylate (Octisalate), padimate O (Escalol 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), polysilicon-15 (Parsol SLX), trolamine salicylate, bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), Benzophenones 1-12, Dioxybenzone, Drometrizoletrisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), Octocrylene, Oxybenzone (Eusolex 4360), Sulisobenzone, Bisoctrizol (Tinosorb M), Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide; carotenoids; free radical scavengers; spin traps; retinoids and retinoid precursors such as retinol, retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate; ceramides; polyunsaturated fatty acids; essential fatty acids; enzymes; enzyme inhibitors; minerals; hormones such as estrogens; steroids such as hydrocortisone; 2-dimethylaminoethanol; copper salts such as copper chloride; peptides containing copper, coenzyme Q10; amino acids such as proline; vitamins; lactobionic acid; acetyl coenzyme A; niacin; riboflavin; thiamine; ribose; electron carriers such as NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and FADH2 (a reduced form of flavin adenine dinucleotide); and other plant extracts such as extracts of oats, aloe vera, feverfew, soy, shiitake mushrooms, as well as their derivatives and mixtures.

In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one additional skin moisturizing active agent.

In certain preferred embodiments, the implementation of the composition contains at least one additional agent to improve the appearance in relation to at least one sign of skin aging. Examples of suitable additional appearance enhancing agents for at least one sign of skin aging include, but are not limited to, tropoelastin stimulants, collagen stimulants, retinoids, dimethylaminoethanol, N,N,N',N'-tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine , alpha hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and combinations of two or more of them.

As used herein, the term "tropoelastin stimulants" refers to a class of compounds having biological activity associated with enhancing tropoelastin production. In accordance with the present invention, tropoelastin stimulants include all natural or synthetic compounds capable of increasing the production of tropoelastin in the human body.

Examples of suitable tropoelastin stimulants include, but are not limited to, blackberry extracts, skumpia extracts, pyrethrum maidenhair extracts, and bimetallic complexes containing copper and/or zinc moieties. The bimetallic complex containing copper and/or zinc components can be, for example, copper-zinc citrate, copper-zinc oxalate, copper-zinc tartrate, copper-zinc malate, copper-zinc succinate, copper-zinc malonate, copper-maleate zinc, copper zinc aspartate, copper zinc glutamate, copper zinc glutarate, copper zinc fumarate, copper zinc glucarate, copper zinc polyacrylate, copper zinc adipate, copper zinc pimelate, copper zinc suberate, copper azealate zinc, copper-zinc sebacate, copper-zinc dodecanoate, or combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the tropoelastin stimulant is selected from blackberry extracts, skumpia extracts, pyrethrum maidenhair extracts, and combinations thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the tropoelastin stimulant is selected from blackberry extracts, pyrethrum maidenhair extracts, and combinations thereof.

By "blackberry extract" is meant a mixture of compounds isolated from a plant of the genus Rubus , preferably Rubus fruticosus . In one embodiment, the compounds are isolated from the flowers of the plant. In a further embodiment, the compounds are isolated from dried flowers of the plant. Such compounds can be isolated from one or more parts of a plant (eg, the whole plant, flower, seed, root, rhizome, stem, fruit, and/or leaf of a plant). In a preferred embodiment, the blackberry extract is a blackberry leaf extract. One particularly useful blackberry extract is obtained by extracting the leaves of Rubus fruticosus with a mixture of water and ethanol with about 5% to about 10% maltodextrin matrix, and is commercially available from Symrise Inc., Teterboro, NJ, under the tradename SymMatrix. .

Compositions of the present invention may include a cosmetically effective amount of one or more tropoelastin stimulants, such as those described above. The compositions preferably comprise (by active substance content) from about 0.1% to about 10% tropoelastin stimulants, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% tropoelastin stimulants, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% stimulants. tropoelastin.

As used herein, the term "collagen stimulator" refers to compounds having biological activity related to enhancing collagen production. In accordance with the present invention, "non-retinoid collagen stimulants" includes all natural or synthetic compounds that are not retinoids or derivatives of retinoids and are capable of increasing the production of collagen in the human body.

Examples of suitable collagen stimulants include, without limitation, the following: retinoids, including retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid, feverfew ( Tanacetum parthenium ) extracts, Centella asiatica extracts, and Siegesbeckia orientalis extracts; soy extracts; peptides that stimulate the formation of collagen; ursolic acid and asiaticoside.

Centella asiatica , also known as Violette marronne in Réunion Island, Gotu kola or Indian shieldwort in India, Centella repanda in North America, and Talapetraka in Madagascar Island, is a polymorphic herbaceous plant and belongs to the Umbelliferae ( Apiaceae ) family, specifically to the subfamily Hydrocotyle . This wild plant is found in all the tropics and prefers humid and shaded areas at an altitude of about 600 to 1200 meters above sea level. There are three types of Centella asiatica : common (Typica), Abyssinian (Abyssinica) and Florida (Floridana). The plant is known for its healing, soothing, analgesic, antidepressant, antiviral and antimicrobial properties. The biological activity of the plant is apparently associated with the presence of triterpene molecules in it. A suitable extract of Centella asiatica under the trade name TECA is available from Bayer Consumer HealthCare, Basel, Switzerland.

By "extracts of Siegesbeckia orientalis " is meant any of the various extracts of the plant Siegesbeckia orientalis , including Darutoside manufactured by Sederma (Croda International Group, Edison, NJ, USA).

Suitable collagen stimulating peptides include the following: matrikine peptides (i.e., peptides derived from degradation of extracellular matrix proteins collagen, elastin, or proteoglycan), including palmitoyl pentapeptides such as MATRIXYL, manufactured by Sederma (Croda International Group). , Edison, New Jersey); GHK (glycine-histidine-lysine) peptide copper complex available from Photomedex, Montgomeryville, PA under the tradename PROCYTE; GHK peptide palmitoyl derivative available from Sederma (Croda International Group, Edison, NJ) ) under the trade name Biopoeptide CL; biomimetic tetrapeptides commercially available from Unipex, Quebec, Canada under the trade name Chronoline Tri Peptide; and palmitoyl tripeptide commercially available from DSM, Basel, Switzerland under the tradename Syn-Coll.

Ursolic acid is also known as pentacyclic triterpene acid, Prunol, Malol, Urson, beta-ursolic acid and 3-beta-hydroxy-urs-12-en-28-oic acid. It is commercially available, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich, St. Louis, Missouri, USA.

Asiaticoside, also known as the chemical compound [6-[[3,4-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)-5-(3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-methyloxan-2-yl)oxyoxan-2-yl]oxymethyl ]-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]-10,11-dihydroxy-9-(hydroxymethyl)-1,2,6a,6b,9,12a-hexamethyl-2,3,4,5,6 ,6a,7,8,8a,10,11,12,13,14b-tetradecahydro-1H-picene-4a-carboxylate), commercially available, in particular from Bayer Santé Familiale, Division Serdex, 69, Boulevard Victor Hugo, 93400, SAINT-OUEN, France.

Compositions of the present invention may include a cosmetically effective amount of one or more collagen stimulants. The compositions preferably comprise (by active substance content) from about 0.1% to about 10% collagen stimulants, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% collagen stimulants, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% collagen stimulants. collagen.

Compositions of the present invention may additionally contain at least one active skin lightening agent. Examples of suitable skin lightening active agents include, but are not limited to, tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin-degrading agents, melanosome transfer inhibitors including PAR-2 antagonists, exfoliants, sunscreens, retinoids, antioxidants, tranexamic acid, tranexamic cetyl ester hydrochloride. acids, skin whitening agents, linoleic acid, adenosine monophosphate disodium, chamomile extract, allantoin, opacifiers, talcs and silicas, zinc salts, etc., and other agents described in Solano et al . Pigment Cell Res. 19 (550-571) and Ando et al. Int J Mol Sci 11 (2566-2575).

Examples of suitable tyrosinase inhibitors include, without limitation, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, resorcinols, hydroquinone, flavones (e.g., licorice flavonoids, licorice root extract, mulberry root extract, Dioscorea coposita root extract, saxifrage extract, etc.), ellagic acid, salicylates and their derivatives, glucosamine and its derivatives, fullerene, hinokitiol, dicarboxylic acid, acetylglucosamine, 5,5'-dipropyldiphenyl-2,2'-diol (magnolignan), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (4-HPB), combinations of two or more of them, etc. Examples of vitamin C derivatives include, without limitation, ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and natural extracts fortified with vitamin C. Examples of vitamin E derivatives include, but are not limited to, alpha-tocopherol, beta, tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol, delta a-tocotrienol and mixtures thereof, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol phosphate and natural extracts enriched with vitamin E derivatives. Examples of resorcinol derivatives include, without limitation, resorcinol, 4-substituted resorcinols such as 4-alkylresorcinols such as -hexylresorcinol (Synovea HR, Sytheon), phenylethylresorcinol (Symwhite, Symrise), 1-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl)-propane (nivitol, Unigen), etc. ., as well as natural extracts enriched with resorcinols. Examples of salicylates include, without limitation, potassium 4-methoxysalicylate, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, and salts thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitors include a 4-substituted resorcinol, a vitamin C derivative, or a vitamin E derivative. In more preferred embodiments, the tyrosinase inhibitor comprises phenylethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, or ascorbyl-2-glucoside.

Examples of suitable melanin-degrading agents include, without limitation, peroxides and enzymes such as peroxidases and ligninases. In some preferred embodiments, the melanin inhibitory agents include peroxide or ligninase.

Examples of suitable melanosome transfer inhibiting agents include PAR-2 antagonists such as soybean trypsin inhibitor or Bowman-Birk inhibitor, vitamin B3 and derivatives such as niacinamide, whole soy product, whole soy, soy extract. In some preferred embodiments, the melanosome transfer inhibiting agents include soy extract or niacinamide.

Examples of exfoliants include, without limitation, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or any combination of any of these, beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, polyhydroxy acids such as lactobionic acid. and gluconic acid, as well as mechanical exfoliators such as microdermabrasion. In certain preferred embodiments, exfoliants include glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

Examples of retinoids include, without limitation, retinol (an alcohol form of vitamin A), retinal (an aldehyde form of vitamin A), retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, isotretinoin, tazarotene, bexarotene, adapalene, combinations of two or more of these, etc. In some preferred embodiments, the retinoid is selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, and combinations of two or more of them. In some more preferred embodiments, the retinoid is retinol.

Examples of antioxidants include, without limitation, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulphite and N-acetylcysteine, glutathione), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, stilbenoids such as resveratrol and its derivatives, lactoferrin, chelating agents iron and copper, as well as ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (eg ascorbyl-2-glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl polypeptide). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (eg, retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (eg, tocopherol acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinones. Natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, without limitation, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids, as well as their derivatives (for example, genistein and diadzein), extracts containing resveratrol, etc. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed extract, green tea, black tea, white tea, pine bark, feverfew, feverfew maidenhair extract, parthenolide free, oat extract, blackberry extract, skumpia extract, soy extract, pomelo extract, wheat germ extract, hesperidin, grape extract, purslane extract, licochalcon, chalcon, 2,2'-dihydroxy chalcone, primrose extract, propolis, etc.

Compositions of the present invention may include a cosmetically effective amount of one or more anti-inflammatory compounds.

Examples of suitable anti-inflammatory agents include substituted resorcinols, (E)-3-(4-methylphenylsulfonyl)-2-propenenitrile (such as Bay 11-7082 from Sigma-Aldrich, St. Louis, MO), tetrahydrocurcuminoids ( such as Tetrahydrocurcuminoid CG manufactured by Sabinsa Corporation, Piscataway, NJ), extracts and substances derived from the following raw materials: Phellodendron amurense bark extract (PCE), undenatured soybean ( Glycine max ), feverfew ( Tanacetum parthenium ), Ginger ( Zingiber officinale ), Ginkgo ( Ginkgo biloba ), Madecassoside ( Centella asiatica extract ingredient), Mackerel ( Cotinus coggygria ), Butterbur extract ( Petasites hybridus ), Goji fruit ( Lycium barbarum ), Spotted thistle extract ( Silybum marianum ), Honeysuckle ( Lonicera japonica ), balsam of Peru ( Myroxylon pereirae ), sage ( Salvia officinalis ), cranberry extract ( Vaccinium oxycoccos ), amaranth oil ( Amaran thus cruentus ), pomegranate ( Punica granatum ), mate ( Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract), white lily flower extract ( Lilium candidum ), olive leaf extract ( Olea europaea ), phloretin (apple extract), oat flour ( Aveena sativa ), Lifenol extract (hops: Humulus lupulus ), Bugrane P ( Ononis spinosa ), licochalcon (licorice: component of Glycyrrhiza inflate extract), simrelifa (bisabolol and ginger extract), combinations of two or more of these, etc.

In one embodiment, the anti-inflammatory agent is resorcinol. Particularly suitable substituted resorcinols include 4-hexylresorcinol and 4-octylresorcinol, in particular 4-hexylresorcinol. 4-Hexylresorcinol under the tradename SYNOVEA HR is commercially available from Sytheon, Lincoln Park, NJ, USA. 4-Octylresorcinol is commercially available from City Chemical LLC, West Haven, Connecticut, USA.

By "feverfew extracts" is meant extracts of the Tanacetum parthenium plant, which can be obtained, for example, according to the details given in US Patent Application Publication No. 2007/0196523 titled PARTHENOLIDE FREE BIOACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM FEVERFEW (TANACETUM PARTHENIUM) AND PROCESSES FOR THEIR PRODUCTION. One particularly suitable extract of Feverfew, in a form containing about 20% active Feverfew, is commercially available from Integrated Botanical Technologies, Ossining, NY, USA.

In one embodiment, the topical composition contains hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid can be linear, cross-linked or a mixture of linear and cross-linked hyaluronic acid. It may be in the form of a salt such as sodium hyaluronate. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid can vary as desired from very low molecular weight to very high molecular weight.

The commercially available cross-linked hyaluronic acid useful in the present invention is ^HyaCare® Filler CL from Evonik Industries AG. HyaCare ^® Filler CL is a high quality, high purity fermented biopolysaccharide produced by a solvent free process. It is identical to the hyaluronic acid found in the skin with an average molecular weight of 700 kDa.

Another commercially available cross-linked hyaluronic acid useful in the present invention is ^Hylasome® EG10 available from Vantage Specialty Ingredients.

The cross-linked hyaluronic acid can be prepared in a manner known in the art. For example, natural or synthetic sources of linear hyaluronic acid can be cross-linked with a variety of cross-linking linkers, including divinyl sulfone (DVS), formaldehyde, polyanhydrides, polyaldehydes, polyalcohols, carbodiimides, epichlorohydrin, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, butanediol diglycidyl ether , polyglycidyl ether of polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol diglycidyl ether, bis- or polyepoxy crosslinkers such as 1,2,3,4-diepoxybutane or 1,2,7,8-diepoxyoctane, or other crosslinkers connections known in the art. The degree of crosslinking can also be controlled in a manner known in the art.

In another embodiment, the composition comprises a citrus fruit extract, such as a lemon peel extract.

Other Ingredients

Compositions of the present invention are applied topically to human skin or hair. Accordingly, the composition may further comprise cosmetically acceptable topical ingredients known in the personal care art for use with oil-in-water emulsion cream-gel formulations.

In certain preferred embodiments, the composition contains one or more topical ingredients selected from the group consisting of surfactants, chelating agents, additional emollients, humectants, conditioners, preservatives, opacifiers, fragrances, and the like.

Additional emollients contain compounds that allow the skin to maintain a soft, smooth and pliable appearance (for example, by spreading on the surface of the skin or in the stratum corneum and functioning as a lubricant). Examples of suitable emollients include those found in chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, G Zocchi) in the Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (ed. A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001 Marcel Dekker, Inc New York, NY), and include, without limitation, petrolatum, hexyldecyl stearate, and vegetable and nut oils, as well as vegetable oils such as macadamia nut oil, rice bran oil, grape seed oil, palm oil, oil evening primrose, hydrogenated peanut butter and avocado oil.

By humectant is meant a compound intended to increase the water content of the upper layers of the skin (eg hygroscopic compounds). Examples of suitable humectants include those presented in chapter 35, pp. 399-415 (G. Zocchi, Skin Feel Agents) in the Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (ed. A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, published in 2001 Marcel Dekker, Inc New York, NY), and include, without limitation, glycerol, sorbitol, or trehalose (e.g., α,α-trehalose, β,β-trehalose, α,β-trehalose) or a salt or ester thereof. (for example, trehalose-6-phosphate).

By surfactant is meant a surface active agent intended for cleaning or emulsification. Examples of acceptable surfactants include those presented in Chapter 37, pages 431-450 (Oldenhove de Guertechin, Classification of surfactants) in the Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (ed. A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach published in 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc New York, NY) and include, without limitation, anionic surfactants such as sulfates, cationic surfactants such as betaines, amphoteric surfactants such as sodium cocoglycinate, non-ionic surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides.

Examples of suitable chelating agents include agents that are capable of protecting and preserving the compositions of this invention. The chelating agent is preferably ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and more preferably EDTA tetrasodium salt commercially available from Dow Chemical Company, Midland, Michigan, USA under the tradename VERSENE 100XL.

Acceptable preservatives include, for example, parabens, quaternary ammonium compounds, phenoxyethanol, benzoates, DMDM hydantoin, organic acids and are present in the composition in an amount, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0 to about 1 percent, or from about 0.05 percent to about 0.5 percent.

For use in the present invention, any of a number of conditioners that result in additional characteristics, such as hair shine, are acceptable. Examples include, without limitation, a volatile silicone conditioning agent having an atmospheric boiling point of less than about 220°C. Examples of suitable volatile silicones include, without limitation, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylcyclosiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, cyclomethicone fluids such as polydimethylcyclosiloxane available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan under the trade name DC-345, and mixtures thereof, and preferably include cyclomethicone liquid. Other suitable conditioners include cationic polymers, including polyquaterniums, cationic guar gum, and the like.

Any of a number of commercially available pearlescent or opacifying agents are suitable for use in the composition. Examples of suitable pearlescent or opacifying agents include, without limitation, mono- or diesters of (a) fatty acids having about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and (b) ethylene or propylene glycol; mono- or diesters of (a) fatty acids having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and (b) polyalkylene glycol of the formula: HO-(JO) _a -H, where J is an alkylene group having from about 2 to about 3 carbon atoms; and a is 2 or 3; fatty alcohols containing from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; esters of fatty acids of the formula: KCOOCH ₂ L, where K and L independently contain from about 15 to about 21 carbon atoms; inorganic solids insoluble in the shampoo composition; and mixtures of the foregoing.

Any flavor compositions suitable for application to the skin can be used in accordance with the present invention.

The composition may contain a thickener such as a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate. Such an ingredient is commercially available under the name ^Sepimax® C from Seppic. In one embodiment, the composition contains from about 0.1 to about 10 or from about 1 to about 8% of the mass. thickener.

The amount and choice of thickener allows you to stabilize the cream gel, while maintaining the aesthetics of the cream gel and the feel on the skin.

The composition may contain, for example, suitable gelling agents such as natural gums, acrylic acid, acrylate polymers and copolymers and cellulose derivatives (eg, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose). Suitable gelling agents for oils (such as mineral oil) include, without limitation, hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer. In such gels, the content of these gelling agents, as a rule, is from about 0.1% to 5% of the mass.

Additional cosmetically active agent may be present in the composition in any acceptable amount, for example in an amount of from about 0.0001% to about 20% of the mass. compositions, for example from about 0.001% to about 10%, in particular from about 0.01% to about 5%. In certain preferred embodiments, in an amount of from 0.1% to 5%, and in other preferred embodiments, from 1% to 2%.

Compositions, formulations and products containing such a composition may be prepared using techniques well known to those of ordinary skill in the art.

In one embodiment, the composition contains dimethicone, carbomers, glycerin, beeswax, polyacrylamide, laureth-7, C13-14 isoparaffin, water, chlorphenesin, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, cetearololivat, sorbitanolivat, dimethicone, crosslinked dimethicone polymer, sodium hydroxide, dimethiconol, crosslinked vinyl dimethicone polymer, C12-14 paret-12, sodium hyaluronate and Pichia anomala extract.

Ways

The present invention also provides a method for enhancing the barrier function and moisturizing the skin by applying the composition of the present invention to the skin in need of strengthening the skin barrier function and moisturizing. This method comprises, for example, topical application of the composition to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and hydration. Such topical application can be carried out on skin in need of care in any part of the body, such as the skin of the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, feet and/or legs.

The present invention further includes a method for improving appearance with respect to at least one sign of skin aging by applying to skin in need of improvement in appearance with respect to at least one sign of aging the composition of the present invention. The method includes, for example, topical application of the composition to the skin requiring the elimination of at least one sign of skin aging. Such topical application can be carried out on skin in need of care in any part of the body, such as the skin of the face, lips, neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, feet and/or legs.

Any suitable method of applying the composition to the skin to be treated can be used. For example, the composition may be applied directly from the package to the skin to be treated, applied by hand to the skin to be treated, or may be transferred to the skin from a substrate such as a wet wipe or mask, or a combination of two or more of the above. In other embodiments, the composition may be applied by pipette, tube, roller, aerosol, and patch, or may be added to a bath or otherwise in water for application to the skin, etc. The composition may be applied in a variety of ways and in a variety of forms, including, but not limited to , leave-in cream, mask and/or serum.

The following non-limiting examples are further illustrative of the present invention.

Example 1

A topical cream-gel composition according to the invention was prepared with the following ingredients.

TABLE 1

Name according to INCI (USA) MAIN FUNCTION % wt. Dimethicone SOFTENER 3.5 Carbomer VISCOSITY INCREASING AGENT 0.15 Glycerol HUMIDIFIER 6 Synthetic beeswax FILM FORMING AGENT 0.5 Polyacrylamide; laureth-7; C13-14 isoparaffin VISCOSITY INCREASING AGENT 2 Water SOLVENT 75.23 Chlorphenesin PRESERVATIVE 0.2 Ethylhexylglycerin; phenoxyethanol PRESERVATIVE 0.8 Cetearololivat; sorbitanolivat EMULSIFIER 2 Dimethicone; cross-linked polymer of vinyl dimethicone SKIN CONDITIONING SUPPLEMENT 1.5 Sodium hydroxide PH REGULATOR 0.02 dimethicone; dimethiconol 2 Cross-linked dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone polymer; C12-14 paret-12 one sodium hyaluronate SKIN CONDITIONING SUPPLEMENT 0.1 Water Pichia anomala extract solution 5

Example 2

A topical cream-gel composition according to the invention was prepared with the following ingredients.

TABLE 2

Name according to INCI (USA) MAIN FUNCTION % wt. Dimethicone SOFTENER 3 Glycerol HUMIDIFIER 5 Stearet-10 EMULSIFIER 0.5 Resin sclerotia VISCOSITY REGULATOR 0.4 Water SOLVENT 77.4 Chlorphenesin PRESERVATIVE 0.2 Ethylhexylglycerin; phenoxyethanol PRESERVATIVE 0.8 Cetearololivat; sorbitanolivat EMULSIFIER 1.5 Dimethicone; cross-linked polymer of vinyl dimethicone SKIN CONDITIONING SUPPLEMENT 2.5 dimethicone; dimethiconol 2 Glyceryl dilaurate SOFTENER 0.5 Copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate 1.2 Water Pichia anomala extract solution 5

Claims (9)

1. Composition for topical application to improve the appearance in relation to at least one sign of skin aging, containing: (a) from 0.5 to 25 percent by weight of glycerin; (b) from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of cetearylolivatate; (c) 0.1 to 5 percent by weight of sorbitanolivate; and (d) from 0.01 to 1 percent by weight of an extract of Pichia anomala; moreover, the composition contains less than 0.1 percent by weight of fatty alcohols and is in the form of a cream-gel. 2. The composition of claim 1 having a pH of less than about 7. 3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the Pichia anomala extract is derived from a strain of Pichia anomala present on kiwi fruits/leaves. 4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract of Pichia anomala is obtained from a strain of Pichia anomala present on sugar cane. 5. A composition according to claim 1 containing less than 0.1 percent by weight of cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.