RU2743141C1 - Method of pigmentation of the human eyebrow skin "sable brows" - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: after preliminary consultation of the client and coordination of the course and content of the performed manipulations, two longitudinal rows of arc-shaped strokes are applied along the contour of the eyebrows, with the help of the SofTap needle module, at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other and a size of 5-8 mm. First, the first row is applied to "fix the sketch", and then the second row is applied to fill in the contour. Next, the body of the eyebrows is filled with strokes of 2-5 mm, located end-to-end and overlapping each other throughout the body of the eyebrow, except for the contours. Strokes over the contour are applied by moving "from oneself" with non-uniform width throughout the length, thicker at the beginning of the movement and 2 times thinner from mid stroke to the end, gradually increasing the depth of penetration of the needles with the penetration into the top layer of the dermis at the end of the stroke. Short strokes over the entire body of the eyebrow are applied by moving "to oneself " with short movements at an angle of 45°, gradually increasing the depth of penetration of the needles with penetration into the upper layer of the dermis, and a smooth output from the skin at the end of the stroke.

EFFECT: method provides a long-term visual effect of the maximum natural thick and voluminous eyebrows.

1 cl, 4 dwg

Description

The method of pigmenting the skin of human eyebrows "Sable brows" refers to services in cosmetics, in particular, to permanent makeup (cosmetic tattooing in the face area) in order to create a long-lasting makeup, namely, the visual effect of voluminous thick eyebrows with visible individual hairs, which will allow them look as natural as possible. The method of pigmenting the skin of human eyebrows "Sable brows" can be used to meet the aesthetic needs of the client about his appearance in accordance with his wishes, fashion trends and taking into account his individual characteristics, namely, to correct problem areas of the eyebrows and give the face individual expressiveness.

Performing permanent eyebrow makeup is one of the labor functions provided for by the Professional Standard "Specialist in the provision of household cosmetic services", approved by order of the Ministry of Labor and Social Protection of the Russian Federation of December 22, 2014 No. 1069n. This professional standard specifies three classic techniques for permanent eyebrow makeup: "shading", "first type of hair arrangement" and "mixed".

As follows from GOST R 55700-2015 National Standard “Household Services. Cosmetic tattooing. General requirements "this procedure can be performed both with a hand instrument (reusable or disposable pen with a needle or a bundle of needles attached to its end), and with an electromechanical instrument (an electromechanical device that imparts a reciprocating motion to a needle or a bundle of needles with a given amplitude and frequency).

From the prior art there is a known method "Microblading, or hair technique by hand, the secret of three hairs" (WWW.PERMANENT-MAGAZINE.ru PERMANENT MAKE-UP # 10 2016 p. 65), in which each hair is manually drawn, with skin cuts along the entire length of the hair, clearly, thinly along the edges with a thickening in the middle, with control of the angle of inclination of the needle and the movement of the needle with a turn when performing bending of the hair; the pigment is implanted into the dermis through cuts, in several passes; the first pass is to outline the contour taking into account the location of the hairs along the length of the eyebrow, the second pass is to fill the contour taking into account the planned location of the hairs, the third pass is corrective, filling in empty areas, adjusting the shape of the hair itself.

The disadvantage of this method is a high level of trauma for the skin, since when pigmented through cuts along the entire length of the hair, the skin restores for a long time, especially after re-adjusting the hair itself, which lengthens the healing process after the procedure.

From the prior art, there is a method for pigmentation of the eyebrow skin (RF patent for invention No. 2671771, IPC A61M 37/00, published on 11/06/2018), in which each hair is drawn manually, with the control of the angle of inclination of the needle and the movement of the needle, each hair is drawn, the contour is drawn taking into account the location hairs along the length of the eyebrow and fill the contour, taking into account the planned arrangement of the hairs, characterized in that they fill the contour with arrays of hairs in the form of strokes of 3-10 mm, which are located in each array close to each other with a shift of 0.8-1 mm, filling part the desired pattern; the next array of strokes is shifted relative to the previous one by 0.5-2 mm according to the drawing, choosing the direction of the strokes of the next array and the density of the arrangement of strokes, partially filling the gaps between the strokes of the previous array, according to the artistic concept; strokes are formed from closely lying pigmented micropores in the epidermis, formed at a high speed of vertical reciprocating movement of the handpiece needle, slowed towards the wrist towards itself, stroking the needle over the skin, which is led with a gradual change in the depth of its penetration into the epidermis along the trajectory of the arc , changing in the stroke of stroking the inclination of the needle to the skin surface, with a smooth entry into the skin at the beginning of the arc, starting from 80-85 ° at the beginning of the stroke, up to 90 ° degrees towards the middle of the stroke in the center of the arc and up to 95-100 ° at the end of the stroke, with a smooth exit from the skin at the end of the arc.

To implement this method, the author proposes to determine the application technique and the choice of the tool for pigmentation, depending on the type of skin in the eyebrow area, while the criteria for the difference in skin types indicates: thickness, density and the presence of scar tissue on it. When implementing this method of pigmentation on different types of skin, it is proposed to use specific types and configurations of needles for permanent make-up, the degree of stretching, the density of pigment application, as well as different speeds of the needle reciprocating on the block. Thus, the implementation of this method of pigmentation is possible only through the use of an electromechanical device imparting a reciprocating motion to a needle or a bundle of needles with a given amplitude and frequency.

The described method has several disadvantages. First, it is highly traumatic for the skin and the impossibility of applying individual thin hairs due to the lateral beating factor of the needle, which occurs when using an electromechanical tool. Secondly, it is fragility. The epidermis, being the outer layer of the skin, is subject to constant renewal, due to which the pigment introduced into it in any way will be able to stay on the skin surface for a very short time or not at all. The risk accompanying the process of traumatizing the skin cannot be justified by the minimum period of the makeup effect obtained.

The closest to the claimed one is the method of skin pigmentation using manual technology GenuLine (Zhenyu-line) (Beauty PRO # 10 / October 2017 / p. 38-39), which consists in drawing the finest lines on the skin in the eyebrow area, as in microblading, but by introducing pigment into skin cuts, by introducing pigment into the upper layer of the dermis using special SofTap needle modules, which are a monoblock consisting of a plastic holder, into which a bundle of needles arranged in one configuration or another is pressed. In total, there are 23 types of needle modules, each of which is pressed into a bundle from 3 to 114 needles to perform tasks on various types of skin. Thus, when implementing this method of skin pigmentation, the factor of using an electromechanical tool and the undesirable consequences of the lateral beating of its needle are excluded.

At the same time, the disadvantage of this method is the lack of the effect of natural thick eyebrows, since when using this method it is impossible to achieve natural volume and density of the eyebrows due to linear movement when applying hair images.

The objective of the proposed technical solution is to create a long-term visual effect of the most natural thick volumetric eyebrows with visible individual hairs with the least trauma.

The problem is solved by using the proposed method of pigmentation of human eyebrow skin "Sable brows", which supplements the atraumatic "hair" technique GenuLine (Zhenya-line) with the technique of "shading". At the same time, the images of hairs on the skin made in this way look more natural, and excessive trauma to the skin when using the claimed method can be eliminated by using, instead of a manual tool, a special SofTap module with a bundle of needles, which significantly reduces the area of the injured surface. This minimizes trauma and reduces the likelihood of noticeable scarring. The less the trauma, the less the immune response, and the more predictable the outcome. The use of special needle modules SofTap when using the proposed method allows the introduction of pigment into the upper (papillary) layer of the dermis, which is not subject to constant renewal, which leads to a long-term effect.

The technical result of the described method of pigmentation of human eyebrow skin "Sable brows" is to create a long-term visual effect of the most natural volumetric and thick eyebrows with visible individual hairs, which is achieved by combining the "shading" and "hair" technique through the use of a manual tool, due to which excludes the factor of reciprocating lateral beating of the needle when using an electro-mechanical tool and, as a result, excessive trauma to the skin.

The proposed technique is called "Sable brows", which in English means "Sable eyebrows", since the artistic concept of this solution is to create visually voluminous, thick and velvety eyebrows that outwardly resemble the fur of a sable animal.

The essence of the invention is as follows. When performing the proposed method of pigmentation, it is first provided to apply along the contour of the eyebrows two longitudinal rows of strokes sufficiently far from each other 5-10 mm and 5-8 mm in size. In this case, the longitudinal rows are applied in turn: first, the first row to "fix the sketch", then the second - to fill the contour. Next, the body of the eyebrows is filled in with short strokes of 2-5 mm, located very close, end-to-end and overlapping to each other along the entire body of the eyebrow (except for the contours). In this case, long strokes along the contour are applied with a movement "from oneself" with a non-uniform width along the entire length, thicker at the beginning of the movement and 2 times thinner from the middle of the stroke to the end, with a gradual change in the depth of penetration of the needles into the upper layer of the dermis, with a smooth exit from skin at the end of the arcuate stroke. Short strokes throughout the entire body of the eyebrows are applied with a movement "towards you" in short movements at an angle of 45 °, with a gradual change in the depth of penetration of the needles into the upper layer of the dermis, with a smooth exit from the skin at the end of the arcuate stroke, and in one pass they pigment a part of the skin with the required pattern area , ensuring the implementation of the artistic concept in the form of thick natural and voluminous eyebrows over the entire area and with elements of individual hairs along the perimeter.

The invention is illustrated by drawings, where Fig. 1 shows the scheme and directions of the strokes when drawing the eyebrow contour; in fig. 2 shows the scheme and direction of short strokes when filling the body of the eyebrows; in fig. 3 shows an image of a tool for performing the proposed method - the SofTap # 10 module; in fig. 4 shows the depth of penetration of the SofTap # 10 needles into the upper layer of the dermis, its position to the skin surface at an angle of 45 °, as well as pigment particles placed in the dermis and providing a visual effect.

The method of pigmentation of human eyebrow skin using the Sable brows technique consists of the first preparatory stage, the second technological stage, which consists in the actual introduction (implantation) of the pigment into the dermis, and the third final stage, during which the performed work is controlled and corrected. The activities that make up the content of the listed stages are carried out in the following sequence.

1. Preparatory activities include the collection of data on the age, health status of the client, the presence or absence of contraindications; informing and advising the client about the features of the service using this technique; stages of the procedure, related aspects (anesthesia, recovery processes, recommendations for care, temporary complications, approximate terms for maintaining the result).

Provided that there are no contraindications and after the client signs an informed consent, make-up removal of the pigmentation area is performed using a perfume and cosmetic makeup remover. This area is then treated with sterile disposable wipes soaked in a skin disinfectant.

Next, a sketch of the future eyebrows is drawn, the following parameters are discussed and agreed upon: the preferred shape, width, position on the face, bend, softness or stiffness of the arc, the shape of the eyebrow head, color and saturation that are planned to be achieved as a result of the procedure. When drawing a sketch, the oval of the face, the size and shape of the nose, the severity (clarity) of the cheekbones, the asymmetry of the eyebrows, the cut and type of eyes, as well as the individual preferences and wishes of the client are taken into account. To draw a sketch, a thin white helium pen is used as a marker, with which lines are drawn along the contour of the sketch, forming a frame, inside which pigmentation will be carried out.

After the sketch is drawn, the tool is being prepared for the service. The implementation of the described method of pigmentation of human eyebrow skin "Sable brows" involves the use of one needle module SofTap # 10 both for drawing hairs on the skin and for shading. Changing the needle configuration is not required. SofTap # 10 module (yellow module) consists of 10 thin needles pressed into two even rows, 5 pieces each, is the ideal choice for reproducing fine hairs on the skin. The very fine needles in the bun create the finest hair lines. Before use, it is necessary to check the integrity and tightness of the module packaging and check its shelf life.

Next, the pigment of the desired color, composition and consistency is selected. When choosing the color of the pigment, the color of the native hairs in the eyebrow area, the color of the hair on the head and skin, the client's color type, the type and undertones of the skin, as well as its quality: dry, oily, normal, combined; density and thickness of the skin; visible proximity of capillaries, rashes. To achieve the required color, it is allowed to mix several pigments with strict adherence to the recommendations of their manufacturers in a sterile container immediately before the procedure. Mixed pigments cannot be stored. Immediately before the procedure, the amount of pigment to be used is placed in a sterile container-ring, which is put on the finger of the hand free from the instrument during the pigmentation procedure. When choosing a pigment, preference should be given to pigments intended for manual pigmentation techniques, that is, containing glycerin in its composition, which makes its texture creamy. Thicker creamy pigments are most convenient for the implementation of the claimed pigmentation method, in contrast to pigments that contain alcohol or water, and therefore have a liquid consistency.

Implementation of the claimed method of pigmentation of eyebrows "Sable brows" implies the mandatory provision of accompanying consumables during the procedure (cotton swabs, cotton pads, sterile wipes, skin disinfectants, perfumes and cosmetics, containers for disposing of disposable materials, etc.), which should be placed within reach on a special table.

2. After completing the above preparatory measures, the second technological stage is carried out, which consists in the actual introduction (implantation) of the pigment into the dermis. Pigmentation begins with the first pass, during which the sketch is "consolidated", when long strokes are applied along the perimeter of the eyebrows to simulate hairs with a needle module with pigment, far enough from each other, 5-10 mm long and 5-8 mm apart. In this case, the skin should be taut. The strokes begin to be performed from the tail of the eyebrow to the side to the arch, then from the arch to the head of the eyebrow. First, in this way, the upper eyebrow line is worked out, and then its lower. Movements are performed "from oneself" with a non-uniform width along the entire length, thicker at the beginning of the movement and 2 times thinner, starting from the middle of the stroke to the end, with a gradual increase in the depth of penetration of the needles into the upper layer of the dermis, with a smooth exit from the skin at the end of the arcuate stroke ... We work in this way first on one, then on the other eyebrows. After the sketch has been secured, secondary anesthesia can be applied to the damaged skin if necessary. After 10-15 minutes, the remnants of the anesthetic are removed with a sterile cotton swab and then a second pass along the contour of the eyebrows is made in the above described way.

Further, in the third pass, the eyebrow body is filled. To do this, within the previously fixed sketch, short strokes are made over the entire body of the eyebrow with movements "towards you" at an angle of 45 ° with a gradual change in the depth of penetration of the needles into the upper layer of the dermis, with a smooth exit from the skin at the end of the arcuate stroke. In one pass, a part of the eyebrow with the required drawing area is pigmented, ensuring the implementation of the artistic concept in the form of thick, voluminous natural eyebrows throughout the entire area. At the same time, after each pass, excess pigment is removed with a sterile napkin and the quality and density of pigment introduction into the skin is checked. After this passage, secondary anesthesia can be used again, if necessary, as described above.

3. This is followed by the final pigmentation stage, during which, using a disposable ruler, the symmetry of the work performed is checked on the client, who for this purpose takes a vertical position. If there are shortcomings in the work performed, appropriate marks are made with a marker, after which they are corrected by performing a fourth pass, during which individual hairs can be drawn and unpainted areas can be filled. At this stage, the pigmentation is considered complete. The execution time for all stages is about 40-50 minutes.

The advantages of this method are:

- providing the visual effect of the most natural thick and voluminous eyebrows, which gives the face expressiveness and attractiveness;

- achieving a long-term effect of work, which consists in the introduction of pigment with the help of a special tool to a certain depth into the upper layer of the dermis;

- due to the choice of a manual instrument with a special structure, a reduction in the factor of skin trauma is achieved, which accordingly reduces the risk of negative consequences for the client's health and shortens the recovery period.

Claims (1)

The method of pigmentation of the skin of the eyebrows, characterized in that after preliminary consultation with the client and coordination of the course and content of the manipulations performed using the SofTap needle module, two longitudinal rows of arcuate strokes are applied along the contour of the eyebrows at a distance of 5-10 mm and a size of 5-8 mm, first, the first row is applied to "fix the sketch", then the second row is applied - to fill the contour, then the body of the eyebrows is filled with strokes of 2-5 mm, located end-to-end and overlapping to each other along the entire body of the eyebrow, except for the contours, while the strokes along the contour is applied with a movement "from oneself" with a non-uniform width along the entire length, thicker at the beginning of the movement and 2 times thinner from the middle of the stroke to the end, gradually increasing the depth of penetration of the needles with penetration into the upper layer of the dermis at the end of the stroke, short strokes throughout the body eyebrows are applied with a movement "towards you" in short movements at an angle of 45 °, gradually increasing the depth of penetration of the needles with by dropping into the upper layer of the dermis, and smoothly exiting the skin at the end of the stroke.

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