RU2722823C2 - Cosmetic composition for treating and preventing acne on skin - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: group of inventions relates to cosmetology, and can be used for treating and preventing acne, except for its severe form. For this purpose, composition is used, which is an aqueous solution containing, wt. %: Epilobium Angustifolium extract 11.0–13.0, hydroxyquinolone retinoate 8.0–11.0, dextran 0.7–1.0 and tripeptide -1 0.5–1.0, water is the rest. Given composition is used in production of a cosmetic agent and for creating an anti-acne preparation. It is also used for prevention and treatment of acne in the form of local skin application 2 times a day in the morning and in evening for 4 weeks.

EFFECT: given group of inventions provides complex skin care, as well as provides prevention of all types of acne, except for the most severe forms.

16 cl, 4 tbl

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetology and a cosmetic composition for use in the treatment and prevention of acne on the skin.

Description of the Related Art

Problems associated with acne are relevant for more than 80% of youth and adolescents. The concept of “acne problems” reflects a causal relationship between manifestations on the skin and more general systemic disorders in the body’s condition.

The appearance of acne is largely affected by infections, genetic disorders, disorders of the endocrine and immune systems, disorders of the digestive system and neuropsychiatric diseases. The development of problems with acne occurs due to disturbances in the functioning of the sebaceous glands, which are the result of the formation of keratinized sebaceous plugs in the channels of these glands. Pathogenic bacteria begin to multiply actively on the surface of traffic jams (comedones), causing irritation and purulent inflammation of adjacent tissues.

Rashes of acne are most often localized in the area of the chin, nose, forehead, neck and chest, since these zones are the places of the greatest concentration of sebaceous glands. Manifestations of acne can be both non-inflammatory (comedones) and inflammatory (papules, pustules) in nature.

The main goals of skin care for acne prone skin are to prevent the appearance of new comedones, choose the right skin care for problem skin and implement measures to maintain the normal functioning of the body as a whole; decreased sebum secretion; elimination of the inflammatory process and prevention of its spread; minimization of cosmetic problems associated with scarring.

Currently, the only drug that comprehensively affects all the underlying factors of acne is isotretinoin (13-cis-retinoic acid), which is used orally. Retinoic acids are known to act by binding to a family of proteins known as the nuclear retinoic acid receptor (RAR). 13-cis-retinoic acid binds to RARα receptors (there are also RARβ and RARγ receptors); however, RAR receptors form heterodimers to mediate their biological functions (Patent of the Russian Federation (RF) No. 2164499 (May 10, 2001); Leid et al., Cell, 68: 377-395 (1992); Yu et al. Cell 67: 1251-1266 (1991).

However, oral administration of 13-cis-retinoic acid leads to numerous undesirable side effects, the most serious and harmful of which is its teratogenicity, i.e. the presence of physical, chemical and biological factors causing embryonic disorders that lead to congenital malformations. In this regard, in the treatment of acne - with the exception of the most severe and aggressive forms - preference should be given to alternative methods of treatment; in particular, systemic treatment should be preferred to local.

Effective treatment of acne on the skin in accordance with the provisions in the collection of articles, CONSENSUS RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF ACNE (JAAD SUP 2003; 49; 1), should influence as many pathogenic factors as possible. . Local use of retinoiods in the embryonic stages of the appearance of almost all new rashes of acne is also recommended, since their use is the most effective tool against comedones; in addition, they prevent the development of acne by limiting the appearance of new comedones; at the same time, some of the retinoids have both direct and indirect anti-inflammatory effects.

A. Kligman in the article "Actual Acid of Vitamin A in Acne Vulgaris", Arch. Derm., 99: 469-476 (April 1969), uses a composition where the vitamin A acid is dispersed in an oily-oily liquid with a strong solvating effect. However, topical application of such an acidic composition leads to irritation of the treated skin areas (US Patent No. 2,729,568; April 24, 1973)

US Patent No. 4,247,547 (March 19, 1979) describes a gel composition containing a therapeutically effective amount of tretinoin (polytrans vitamin A acid, retinoic acid), an organic solvent (which uses organic alcohols), an antioxidant and a gelling agent. However, from the point of view of all pathogenic factors, this drug does not provide the entirety of the comprehensive care necessary for skin with acne, i.e. to prevent acne, it should be combined with other ingredients. In addition, drugs containing organic alcohols can cause skin irritation.

RF Patent No. 2454989 (July 10, 2012) describes a composition containing at least one retinoid, as well as dispersed benzoyl peroxide, hydrophilic phase, fat phase and emulsifier. Benzoyl peroxide has a pronounced antibacterial and keratolytic effect, due to which it normalizes the renewal of skin cells, reduces oily skin and is significantly effective against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. However, taking into account the chemical instability and high reactivity of benzoyl peroxide, there is a high probability of decomposition of benzoyl peroxide even during its stay (storage) in solution due to instability of the peroxide bond, which significantly reduces the efficiency and effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide as a result of decomposition of benzoyl peroxide in direct contact with skin. On the other hand, retinoids are especially sensitive to natural oxidation, light oxidation and ultraviolet oxidation, and therefore the presence of benzoyl peroxide (which is a strong oxidizing agent) dramatically reduces the strength of the action of retinoids.

US Patent No. 8,440,237 (April 27, 2009) describes a skin care composition that contains extracts of Arctium Lappa (burdock), Epilobium Angustifolium, Cytostoseira Amentacea / Caespitosa Brachycarpa in any combination, from the point of view of cosmetic carriers such as emulsions, creams and lotions. However, the invention according to US Patent No. 8,440,237 only contributes to the elimination of skin hyperemia caused by acne, improves the appearance of the skin and provides protection against the appearance of new foci. In other words, it performs the function of preventing acne, but does not provide comprehensive skin care with acne and treatment of such skin.

Patent CA 2386648 (May 16, 2002) describes a composition having antifungal and antibacterial action and containing Epilobium Angustifolium extract.

Currently, there is a need to create a medicine that covers all stages of skin care with acne and the prevention of acne.

Mention of any document in this document cannot be considered as recognition that such a document is related to the prior art or is considered significant for the patentability of any of the claims in this application. Any statement regarding the content or date of any document is based on information available to the applicant at the time of registration and cannot be considered a recognition of the fairness of such a statement.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is intended to provide comprehensive skin care and prevention of all types of acne, except for the most severe forms of acne. Accordingly, the present invention provides a balanced concentrated composition (hereinafter “the active composition of the RET complex”), which contains, as active substances for the prevention and treatment of acne, an extract of Epilobium Angustifolium, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, dextran and tripeptide-1.

The present invention also claims a preparation for direct application to the skin for use in the prevention and treatment of acne, which is prepared by mixing the active composition of the RET complex with other ingredients used in cosmetology, so that the amount of the active composition of the RET complex is mixed into the preparation, accounts for approximately 2% of the total composition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a unique specially designed composition (RET complex), which contains active ingredients for complex skin care and prevention of acne on the skin. The active composition of the RET complex complements the DERMA CLEAR PLUS line of formulations / preparations, which includes a cleanser, toner, day and night creams, as well as a cleansing mask for direct application to acne-prone skin.

The active composition of the RET complex of the present invention, which can be further abbreviated as the "RET complex", contains a perfectly balanced ratio of four active ingredients: Epilobium angustifolium extract, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (GPR), dextran and tripeptide-1, where their natural penetrating power is enhanced by the presence of additional excipients.

Each active substance present in the composition of the RET complex performs certain functions, and the complex as a whole covers all stages of skin care for acne prone.

Epilobium angustifolium extract contains a bioactive enotein B molecule that inhibits the action of 5α-reductase and inhibits the development of P. acnes, contributing to better acne control. In vitro studies (McCutcheon AR, 1996) have also shown that extracts of the root parts and roots of Epilodium Angustifolium have excellent broad-spectrum antimicrobial, antifungal, and antibacterial effects. The leaves and roots of this plant contain from 10 to 20% of tannins, and up to 15% of mucous substances in its leaves. It also contains large quantities of plant fibers (fiber), sugar, organic acids, pectin, flavonoids, vitamin C (90-588 mg per 100 g of fresh grass), and therefore this plant shows acceptor properties with respect to free radicals, which Reduces skin ulcers caused by oxidative stress. The presence of a large number of tannins and mucous substances determines the anti-inflammatory and wound healing effect of the plant.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HSP) is a class of polytransretinoic acid ester, the peculiarity of which is that it directly binds to a group of receptors known as X-retinoic acid receptors (RXR) (RF Patent No. 2164499; Levin et al., Cell, 68 : 377-395 (1992); Yu et al., Cell, 67: 1251-1266 (1991); Zhang et al., Nature, 355: 441-446 (1992)). In its action, it is similar to retinoic acid, but does not cause side effects in the form of irritation. Selectivity for the RXR receptor family inhibits the proliferation of sebocytes, which causes acne.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate can activate or slow down (if necessary) the development of cells that line the channels of the sebaceous glands, as a result of which the channels are cleansed of dead cells and other contaminants that can clog the channels. In addition, it softens inflammatory processes and stimulates skin protection mechanisms, thereby creating conditions for reducing the number of harmful / pathogenic bacteria and repairing damaged skin areas.

Tripeptide-1 is a biomimetic peptide that activates the synthesis of proteins in the extracellular matrix (collagen I, III, elastin, fibronectin, laminin). Fibronectin is secreted by fibroblasts and promotes cell adhesion and migration; laminin is located inside the basal lamina; it also promotes the adhesion of epithelial cells and the basement membrane. Both of these glycoproteins are involved in the restoration and healing of tissues, in the restoration and reproduction of skin cells and, as a result, reduce the likelihood of scarring and blemishes, providing skin healing during treatment.

In a preferred case, in the considered active composition of the RET complex of the present invention, the relative amounts of active ingredients (by weight) are: Epilobium Angustifolium extract 45-55%, hydroxypinacolone retinoate 35-45%, dextran 2-6%, and tripeptide-1 2-6 % In a more preferred case, the relative amounts of active substances (by weight) are: Epilobium Angustifolium extract 50-54%, hydroxypinacolone retinoate 40-42%, dextran 3.5-4%, and tripeptide-1 2.5-4%. In the most preferred case, the considered active composition of the RET complex of the present invention is an aqueous solution that contains (in% by mass):

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract 11.0-13.0 mass. % hydroxypinacolone retinoate 8.0-11.0 mass. % dextran 0.7-1.0 mass. % and tripeptide-1 0.5-1.0 mass. %

The described active composition of the RET complex of the present invention also contains an auxiliary substance, a thickening agent and a stabilizer, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, and an emulsifier. The composition of the RET complex is intended for use in the prevention and treatment of acne - for example, when mixed with (or diluted) with other cosmetically acceptable excipients, carriers and excipients for the preparation of the drug for direct application to skin prone to acne.

As an auxiliary substance, a solvent is used to enhance the penetrating ability of the active substances / ingredients applied to the skin. Dimethyl isosorbide, which is a sugar-based polar solvent for active substances, can serve as an auxiliary substance that activates the active substances of the RET complex in the upper layers of the epidermis, ensuring long-term preservation of these substances in the skin. Dimethyl isosorbide eliminates irritation and increases the penetration of the active ingredients of the RET complex. Alternatively, ethoxydiglycol can also be used as an excipient, since it is a colorless solvent that enhances the penetrating power of the RET complex and is ideally compatible with all types of drugs. Mixtures of dimethyl isosorbide and ethoxydiglycol are suitable for use as auxiliary substances in the RET complex, for example, a mixture of dimethyl isosorbide and ethoxydiglycol in a ratio of 1: 3, respectively. Although it is preferable to use dimethyl isosorbide and ethoxydiglycol, they do not exhaust examples of excipients for use in the RET complex: other excipients known from the prior art in the field of cosmetology can also be used for this purpose.

As a thickener and stabilizer - to give the composition of the RET complex a gel-like texture to increase the viscosity, a binding agent xanthan gum, which is known for its water-holding ability, can be used; it increases the stability of the composition during the freeze-thaw cycle and stabilizes the active cosmetic composition. Hydroxyethyl cellulose can also be used for this purpose, since it has binders, suspending, emulsifying, stabilizing, water-retaining and preserving properties. Similarly, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose can be used as a thickener and stabilizer, which acts as a regeneration modifier with the properties of a thickener, retains moisture, forms a texture and has suspending properties. Although it is preferable to use the above substances, they do not exhaust examples of thickener and stabilizer for use in the RET complex: for this purpose other thickeners and stabilizers known from the prior art in the field of cosmetology can also be used.

As an emulsifier in the RET complex, glyceryl stearate can be used, which is obtained from palm kernel oil, vegetable or soybean oil, and which is also produced naturally in the human body. Glyceryl stearate acts as a lubricant for the skin, thanks to which the skin looks supple and smooth. It also easily penetrates the skin and slows the loss of moisture from the skin by creating a barrier on its surface. It is known in the art that glyceryl stearate acts as a means of protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Due to its emulsifying properties, glyceryl stearate has a stabilizing effect, reduces the evaporation of moisture and affects frost resistance.

As an emulsifier, hydrolyzed lecithin is used, which is lecithin (a natural mixture of diglycerides of stearic, palmitic and oleic acids associated with ester of choline phosphoric acid) with the addition of hydrogen and having penetrating ability. This emulsifier has all the positive properties of natural lecithin, i.e. a wide range of positive effects on the human body: in particular, it plays an important role in cellular metabolism, especially taking into account its ability to penetrate through membranes. As for emulsifying properties, hydrolyzed lecithin is a surfactant that ideally functions on the phase boundary of various substances, reducing their surface tension. Some polysorbates can also be used as emulsifiers, in particular, POLYSORBATE 20, POLYSORBATE 80 (ethoxylates of fatty acids esterified with sorbitol anhydride). Emulsifiers of this type have good viscous, binding and moisturizing properties. Although it is preferable to use the above substances, they do not exhaust examples of emulsifiers for use in the RET complex: other emulsifiers known from the prior art in the field of cosmetology can also be used for this purpose.

It should be borne in mind that in the preparation of the composition of the RET complex, one or more suitable substances can be used for the excipient, thickener and stabilizer, as well as an emulsifier.

In a preferred case, the considered active composition of the RET complex contains an auxiliary substance in an amount of about 3-5%.

In a preferred case, the considered active composition of the RET complex contains a thickener and a stabilizer in an amount of about 0.2-1.0%.

As for the emulsifier, the active composition of the RET complex under consideration contains it in an amount of about 1.0-3.0%.

In a preferred case, the considered active composition of the RET complex contains propylene glycol or butylene glycol in an amount of about 3.0-8.0%.

In a most preferred embodiment, the active composition of the RET complex in question contains the following ingredients in the following amounts in mass. % (the rest of the mass of the composition is water):

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract 11.0-13.0 hydroxypinacolone retinoate 8.0-11.0 dextran 0.7-1.0 tripeptide-1 0.5-1.0 excipient 3.0-5.0 thickener and stabilizer 0.2-1.0 propylene glycol or butylene glycol 3.0-8.0 emulsifier 1.0-3.0 water the rest of the mass

The composition of the RET complex of the present invention can be obtained using methods known and available to specialists in the relevant field for use in the manufacture of various cosmetic forms / compositions in the cosmetic industry. One of these methods is presented below solely as an example, not of a limiting nature.

Epilobium angustifolium extract is added to a mixture of water and propylene glycol heated to 60 ° C and mixed until completely dissolved. Then, in order to prevent the formation of lumps, a stabilizer is added gradually, in small quantities / doses, in the presence of a homogenizer and with a speed of the mixer of 6000-7000 rpm. Homogenization continues until the thickener is completely dissolved and the mixture acquires a gel-like texture. After that, a mixture of excipient preheated to 60 ° C and hydroxypinacolone retinoate is added by whipping into the resulting gel for 5 minutes, after which an emulsifier is added. Beating homogenization is stopped 5-7 minutes after the addition of the emulsifier. Then the resulting emulsion is cooled to 30-35 ° C with slow stirring, and over the next 30 minutes, dextran and tripeptide-1 are added to the emulsion with stirring.

The composition of the RET complex of the present invention, as a specially designed and balanced anti-acne composition, forms the basis for a preparation applied directly to the skin (for example, DERMA CLEAR PLUS line of compositions), including a cleanser, toner, day and night creams, as well as a cleansing mask , for prevention and treatment at all stages of skin care, prone to acne. The RET complex as a concentrated composition of active ingredients / agents can be used in its concentrated form, but can also be diluted so that the resulting composition / preparation for direct topical application to acne-prone skin - for example, in the form of a cleanser, tonic , day and night creams or a cleansing mask - contained the RET complex (including active ingredients) in an amount of approximately 2% of the total weight of the finished product. In the manufacture / preparation of a preparation for use as a medicine, the RET complex containing the active ingredients is mixed with cosmetically acceptable excipients, carriers and excipients, as well as other cosmetically acceptable ingredients so that the concentration of the RET complex in the finished preparation is about 2% . Cosmetically acceptable excipients, carriers and excipients, as well as other cosmetically acceptable ingredients that perform one or more functions that are commonly used in cosmetology for topical application to the skin, include, in particular, a surfactant / cleanser such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate; a conditioning agent such as water from the leaves of Hamamelis Virginia, water from the leaves of Aloe barbadensis, cetyl esters, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, panthenol, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone; exfoliant - such as glycolic acid; emollient - such as cetyl alcohol; a chelating agent such as disodium EDTA; emulsifier - such as glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearet-2, stearet-21; a solvent such as dimethyl isosorbide, ethoxydiglycol; solvent / co-emulsifier - such as PPG-2b-butet-26 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; air conditioning / solvent - such as tridecyl stearate, neopentyl glycol, dicaprilate / dicaprinate and trimellitate; an agent for increasing viscosity, such as magnesium aluminosilicate; humectant / conditioner - such as sorbitol, sodium pyrrolidone carbonate, glycerin; an antioxidant such as lactose, cellulose, CL 77491, tocopheryl acetate and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose; humectant / solvent / conditioner / viscosity regulator - such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol; emulsion stabilizer / viscosity enhancer such as cetearyl alcohol, xanthan gum; preservative - such as sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol; pH regulator such as triethanolamine; flavoring; etc. The product is intended for topical application to skin prone to acne.

The RET complex and preparations containing the RET complex are characterized by increased stability, high efficiency, ease of use, the absence of side effects in the form of irritation and minimization of scar formation after acne. Thus, the prevention and treatment of acne on the skin is achieved through an integrated approach with the daily use of the DERMA CLEAR PLUS line of ready-made formulations / preparations for topical application to acne-prone skin, which are represented by a cleanser, toner, day and night creams and a cleansing mask. Accordingly, these drugs are intended for use in the prevention and treatment of acne. The present invention also provides a method for the prevention and treatment of acne, which includes topical application to the skin of a person in need thereof (i.e., a person having skin with acne or skin prone to acne), topical preparations such as a cleanser facial skin (composition of cleansing soap), tonic (composition for refreshing facial skin), day and night creams (composition of lotion or skin cream), and a cleansing mask.

The DERMA CLEAR PLUS line of formulations / preparations for direct application to acne-prone skin should be used as follows:

The cleansing composition / preparation (cleansing soap) Derma clear plus smoothing facial cleanser is rubbed into moisturized face skin in small amounts for one minute, and then washed off. This cleanser should be used twice a day - morning and evening.

An additional cleanser for the face with a tonic effect (skin freshener) Derma clear plus spotless skin refresher is used twice a day - in the morning and in the evening - by applying a cotton swab to the skin (without subsequent rinsing). This tool dries on the face in a natural way.

In the morning, after additional cleansing with tonic and natural evaporation of the latter, the composition / preparation of Derma clear plus day control moisturizer is applied to the face.

In the evening, after additional cleansing with tonic and natural evaporation of the latter, a face cream / night cream (lotion or skin cream) Derma clear plus treatment emulsion is applied to the face.

Twice a week, apply a thick layer of Derma clear plus pore purifying mask to skin areas prone to acne: leave this mask on the face for 10-15 minutes or until it completely dries, then rinse thoroughly with warm water.

Clinical trials have established the level of effectiveness of the DERMA CLEAR PLUS line of ready-made formulations for direct application to acne-prone skin and have shown no irritation, allergic reactions or toxic effects on the skin.

The above general description of the invention is supplemented below by explanations in the form of examples, which are presented for illustration and do not limit the scope of the present invention.

EXAMPLE 1

Several embodiments (Embodiments 1-9) of a preparation with an active composition of the RET complex, which differ from each other in the concentration of active ingredients, as shown in Table 1, were studied.

As a result of the experiments, it was found that Embodiment No. 5 is optimal (from the point of view of a positive effect on acne prone skin) for the active composition of the RET complex. All formulations prepared with the active composition of the RET complex have a pleasant texture, are evenly applied to the skin, absorbed fairly quickly, leave no greasy marks, have high organoleptic characteristics and have a pleasant aroma. Any changes in the concentration of the active composition in the direction of decrease compared with Option No. 5 explicitly affect the final result in terms of effectiveness, that is, they reduce the activity of the composition; at the same time, an increase in the concentration of active substances does not increase the effectiveness of the composition, but makes the final product harder, affects the absorption rate and even (in some cases) causes irritation.

EXAMPLE 2

A study was conducted to assess whether daily application under normal conditions (trial use) of the three test products - Cleansing soap for oily and problem skin; Refreshing water for the skin of the face; and Lotion for balanced care for problematic skin - within four weeks to reduce the number of comedones and blackheads in individuals with oily skin.

Type of study

Open, comparative

Number of participants

15 participants

Inclusion Criteria:

Age at least 18 years old and lack of health problems

Ability to sign informed consent

Oily or mixed skin with a tendency to form comedones and blackheads

Participant consent not to use any similar cosmetic products during the study period

Exclusion Criteria:

The use of systemic treatment for acne in the two months preceding the study

History of allergies to related ingredients

Pregnancy

The presence of an acute or uncontrolled chronic disease

Exclusion from participation in another clinical trial (after participation in another study)

Preparation of Cleansing Soap:

Heat the water to a temperature of 75 ° C, add magnesium aluminosilicate, cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum, and homogenize for 25 minutes. After this, add in turn: disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate, propylene glycol, sodium pyrralidone carbonate, sorbitol, dimethyl isosorbide, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, lactose and mix.

Separately heat a mixture of the following ingredients to 75 ° C:

PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, tridecyl stearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprilat / dicaprinate, tridecyl trimellitate, cetyl ethers, cetyl alcohol.

Mix 1 and 2 and homogenize for 20 minutes.

Go to slow stirring, cool to 45 ° C and add phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, chlorphenesin.

At a temperature of 40 ° C, add the RET complex, which includes the extract of Epilobium angustifolium, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, dimethyl isosorbide, propylene glycol, dextran, glyceryl stearate, tripeptide-1 and xanthan gum.

At a temperature of 35 ° C add tocopheryl acetate, perfume.

Making refreshing water for your skin

Mix together:

water, allantoin, disodium EDTA, sodium benzoate, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidone carbonate

Heat to 65 ° C and, with homogenization, add xanthan gum.

Transfer to mixture and add glycolic acid.

At a temperature of 45 ° C add phenoxyethanol, capryl glycol.

At a temperature of 40 ° C add water from the leaves of Aloe barbadensis, water from the leaves of Hamamelis v., Panthenol.

At a temperature of 35 ° C, add the RET complex, which includes the extract of Epilobium angustifolium, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, dimethyl isosorbide, propylene glycol, dextran, glyceryl stearate, tripeptide-1 and xanthan gum.

Add fragrance, PPG-26-butet-26, PET-40-hydrogenated castor oil.

Lotion Preparation:

Stir and heat to 75 ° C

water, disodium EDTA, propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, allantoin

When homogenizing, add xanthan gum.

Separately, heat to a temperature of 75 ° C

cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, stearet-2, stearet-21,

PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate.

Homogenize mixture 1 and 2 for 20 minutes.

Transfer to the mixture and add phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, chlorphenesin at a temperature of 45 ° C.

At a temperature of 40 ° C add panthenol.

At a temperature of 35 ° C, add the RET complex, which includes the extract of Epilobium angustifolium, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, dimethyl isosorbide, propylene glycol, dextran, glyceryl stearate, tripeptide-1 and xanthan gum.

Add fragrance

A small amount of cleansing soap (cleansing composition) is rubbed into moisturized skin for one minute, and then washed off. This cleanser should be used twice a day - morning and evening.

Refreshing water for the skin of the face (skin freshener) is used twice a day - in the morning and in the evening - applying to the skin (without subsequent rinsing) with a cotton pad: after that, the product is left on the face for natural evaporation.

Lotion (composition of night cream) is applied in the evening, after additional cleaning of the skin with tonic and natural evaporation of the latter.

Clinical evaluation is performed by the same dermatologist on the 1st and 29th day of the study.

Change in the number of comedones and blackheads from images in photographs taken with the OBSER 520 camera on the 1st and 29th day of the study.

Changes in the number of black dots on a film examined using the QUANTISEB IMAGE ANALYSIS SYSTEM.

Changes in the amount of sebum as measured by the SEBOMETER® SM 815.

Study protocol

Participants arrive on Day 1 at the Dermatological Testing Center, where they receive detailed explanations regarding the study and sign the informed consent form.

The first parameters of the skin are measured:

Clinical Photography (OBSER 520 Camera)

Counting the number of comedones and blackheads on a given area of the skin.

Counting the number of black dots on a 1 cm film after attachment to the face (IMAGE ANALYSIS SYSTEM - QUANTISEB).

Sebum Measurement (SEBOMETER® SM 815.)

At the end of the measurements, participants are given products for home use, as well as a personal diary to record the time of application of the products, taking into account changes in the appearance of the skin and side effects (if any).

In addition, a demonstration of the quantity of product to be used is being conducted. After 28 days of product use, participants return to the Center for a second assessment, during which the same clinical parameters are studied. Other products and personal diaries are collected and analyzed.

Statistical analysis of the results

Statistical analysis of clinical data is carried out using t-student test

RESULTS

Members

Portability

Good tolerance of the tested products was observed. There were no data on significant adverse reactions in personal diaries.

findings

In the course of the study, according to sebometric analysis, there was a tendency to a decrease in sebum production after 4 weeks of using the products at home. Only results obtained using the Quantiseb system were statistically significant. Products were well tolerated by test participants.

Now, after presenting the full description of the invention, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the above can be achieved within wide limits of equivalent parameters, concentrations and conditions without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention and without undue experimentation.

Although the present invention has been described in connection with specific embodiments, it is contemplated that it may be subject to further modifications. The present application is intended to cover any changes, methods of application or adaptation of the inventions, which generally respect the principles of the invention, and which include deviations from the description that are within the scope of known or ordinary practice in the relevant field of the invention, and which may apply to the essential features set forth below in the attached claims.

All sources cited in this document, including texts of journal articles or abstracts, published or related applications for US patents or foreign patents, or any other sources, are fully incorporated herein by reference, including all data, tables, figures and text, presented in the indicated sources. In addition, the entire contents of the sources indicated in the sources referred to in this document are also fully incorporated into it by reference.

References to known or conventional steps (steps) of the methods, known or conventional methods in no way imply an acknowledgment that any aspect, description or embodiment of the present invention is disclosed, set forth or proposed.

The above description of specific embodiments fully reflects the general nature of the invention, which others, applying knowledge appropriate to the ordinary level of a specialist (including the contents of the sources mentioned in this document), can easily be changed and / or adapted to various conditions of application of such specific embodiments without undue experimentation, without departing from the general concept of the present invention. Thus, it is assumed that such adaptations and changes are consistent with the purpose and scope of use of the disclosed embodiments, based on the provisions and guidelines presented herein. It is assumed that the phraseology and terminology used in this document are intended to describe and do not have a restrictive meaning: they should be interpreted by a specialist in the relevant field in the light of the provisions and guidelines presented, in connection with knowledge corresponding to the level of a specialist.

Claims (17)

1. The composition for the treatment and prevention of acne, in addition to its severe form, which is an aqueous solution containing, mass. %: Epilobium Angustifolium Extract 11.0-13.0 hydroxypinacolone retinoate 8.0-11.0 dextran 0.7-1.0 tripeptide 1 0.5-1.0 water rest 2. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it further comprises auxiliary substances selected from ethoxydiglycol or a mixture of dimethyl isosorbide and ethoxydiglycol in an amount of 3.0-5.0 mass. % 3. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it further comprises a thickener and stabilizer selected from sodium hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose and xanthan gum in an amount of 0.2-1.0 mass. % 4. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it further comprises an emulsifier selected from hydrogenated lecithin, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, glyceryl stearate in an amount. 1.0-3.0 mass. % 5. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it further comprises 3.0-8.0 mass. % propylene glycol. 6. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it further comprises 3.0-8.0 mass. % butylene glycol. 7. The use of the composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-6 in the manufacture of a cosmetic product for the prevention or treatment of acne, except for its severe form. 8. A drug for the treatment and prevention of acne, in addition to its severe form, containing a composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-6, mixed with cosmetically acceptable excipients, carriers and excipients to a concentration of 2 mass in the finished product. % 9. The drug according to p. 8, characterized in that it is intended for topical application to skin prone to acne. 10. The drug according to p. 8, characterized in that it is a cleansing soap for oily and acne-prone skin. 11. The drug according to p. 8, characterized in that it is a means for refreshing the skin. 12. The drug according to p. 8, characterized in that it is a lotion or cream for the skin. 13. A method for the prevention or treatment of acne, with the exception of its severe form, consisting in topical application to the skin of a person in need of this preparation according to claim 8, 2 times a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks. 14. The method according to p. 13, characterized in that the person applying it has acne or skin prone to acne. 15. The method according to p. 13, characterized in that the preparation is a cleansing soap composition or composition for skin freshening. 16. The method according to p. 13, characterized in that the preparation is a composition of a lotion or cream for the skin.