RU2014824C1 - Artificial sunburn cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: cream composition comprising kernel oil, distilled monoglycerides, cosmetic glycerol tristearate, lanolin, triethanolamine, methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester, flavoring agent, and water further contains dihydroxyacetone syrup, perfumery oil and propyl p- hydroxybenzoic acid ester in the following mixture ratio, % by weight: kernel oil 2.0-1.0, perfumery oil 6.0-8.0, distilled monoglycerides 2.0-4.0, cosmetic glycerol tristearate 2.0-4.0, triethanolamine 0.7-0.9, lanolin 2.0-4.0, dihydroxyacetone syrup 8.0- 12.0, methyl p- hydroxybenzoic acid ester 0.1-0.5, propyl p- hydroxybenzoic acid ester 0.08-0.12, flavoring agent 0.4- 0.6 and water for the balance. EFFECT: increased smoothing effect, uniform distribution of sunburn.

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetology.

Known cream for facial skin containing components in the following ratio, wt. %: Olive oil 9.0 Perfume oil 4.5 Diethylene glycol stearate 10.0 Glycerol monostearate 2.5 Beeswax 2.5 Ceresin 1.25 Alcohol fractions C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ 1.0 Lanolin 2.0 Borax 1.25
Rowan Oil Extract 5.0
Biologically active parsley extract 10.0
Condensed milk whey 6.0
Methyl ether
paraoxybenzoic acid 0.3
Propyl ether
paraoxybenzoic acid 0.12 Paraformaldehyde 0.035 Fragrance 1.0 Water Else
USSR author's certificate N 1327887, cl. A 61 K 7/00, 1985).

 The disadvantage of this cream is that it has an irritating and sensitizing effect for some types of skin.

The closest technical solution known is a cream for facial skin care containing components in the following ratio, wt.%: Emulsion wax 3.0
Glycerol Monostearate 1.75
Distilled monoglycerides 1.75 Cosmetic stearin 1.75 Lanolin 1075
Hydrogenated
sperm whale fat alcohols 1.25 Olive oil 4.75 Glycerin 3.5 Triethanolamine 0.85
Methyl ether
paraoxybenzoic acid 0.3 Paraform 0.022 Ethyl alcohol 3.5 Citric acid 0.4 Flavor 0.65 Pyridoxal-5-phosphate 0.65 Water Else
(USSR author's certificate N 1247010, class A 61 K 7/00, 1985).

 However, this cream for some types of skin has an irritating and sensitizing effect and does not contribute to an even distribution of tan in the absence of emollient properties.

 Known artificial tanning agent containing dioxiacetone, methyl ether of paraoxybenzoic acid, citric acid, olive oil, isopropyl myristate, highly refined petroleum paraffins, cremoforms A-6 and A-25, paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ether, ceresin, emulsion waxes, propellant, perfume and water (USSR author's certificate N 992058, class A 61 K 7/00, 1981).

 Providing a uniform distribution of tanning and improving emollient properties, this artificial tanning agent is difficult to manufacture, contains a number of scarce components, is prone to dyeing, which reduces its consumer properties, and hence its marketing on the market.

 The introduction in the claimed cream for artificial tanning of new components, namely perfume oil, distilled monoglycerides, cosmetic stearin, triethanolamine, lanolin, dioxiacetone syrup at these ratios, avoids this drawback, while ensuring a more uniform distribution of tan and preserving softening properties.

 Thus, we can conclude that the claimed cream is new, meets the inventive step, and therefore the criterion of "significant differences", and can be industrially used in healthcare.

 Syrup with dioxiacetone, which is a product of glycerol biotransformation carried out by a specific strain of microorganisms during their growth and processing of the indicated substrate (glycerol), followed by purification and thickening of the culture medium, is introduced into the formulation as an active component.

 The composition of the dioxiacetone syrup and its characteristics are given in table 1.

 Acting on the composition of the cream with dioxiacetone syrup, a slightly acidic environment is created with a pH of 5-6, which corresponds to human skin and provides maximum reactivity of dioxiacetone syrup introduced into the cream in the amount of 8.0-12.0%. The tan color at a pH below 4 decreases sharply, which corresponds to the introduction of less than 8.0% of dioxiacetone syrup into the cream. With an increase in the percentage of dioxiacetone syrup over 12.0%, the pH increases from 7 to 8 units. At pH 7, the color of the skin during tanning is weak, and at pH 8 it disappears completely.

 As the fat base in the formulation, stone oil (olive) in the amount of 2.0-4.0% was used. Introducing it below the lower limit does not provide optimal skin softening, and introducing it above the upper limit creates an overwhelming effect.

 The film-forming agent is perfumery oil - 6.0-8.0%. The introduction of perfume oil above 8.0% creates a rigid film structure, and with a decrease in the amount of perfume oil below 6.0%, the film may not form at all.

 As the primary emulsifiers used distilled monoglycerides - 2.0-4.0%. The introduction of distilled monoglycerides of less than 2.0% does not provide a primary emulsifying effect. The introduction of distilled monoglycerides of more than 4.0% affects the structure of creams.

 Cosmetic stearin - 2.0-4.0% and triethanolamine - 0.7-0.9%, which give a pleasant consistency to the cream, were used as the main emulsifier and builder in the formulation. With the introduction of the number of components below the minimum limit, the consistency of the cream becomes more liquid, therefore, the time it affects the skin is reduced, therefore, its positive effect on the physiological state of the skin is removed. When you enter the number of components in excess of the upper limit, the consistency of the cream becomes more thick and viscous, which leads to a decrease in its penetrating ability through the skin barrier.

 As a consistent, emollient, increasing the moisture capacity of the cream additives in the formulation introduced lanolin - 2.0-4.0%. The introduction of lanolin less than 2.0% does not provide the moisture capacity of the composition. Its introduction of more than 4.0% creates an overwhelming effect.

 A complex of preservatives was introduced into the cream formulation, consisting of methyl paraoxybenzoic acid and paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ether - 0.08-0.12%. The complex, introduced within the specified limits, provides a preservative effect.

 Fragrance is introduced in an amount of 0.4-0.6%. Its introduction above 0.6% and below 0.4% does not create a favorable tone of cream smell.

 Examples of the implementation of the compositions of the cream are given in table.2.

The cream is prepared according to the following technology:
- preparation of the components of the fat base;
- preparation of the components of the aqueous phase;
- cooking cream (emulsification, perfumery);
- crystallization;
- unloading cream;
- packaging;
- packaging, labeling.

In a cast iron enameled reactor brand R4EN-1 with a capacity of 400 l, made with a steam-water jacket and an anchor mixer, solid components of the fat base are loaded, according to the recipe. The mixture was melted at a temperature of 65-70 ^{° C} and stirred with an anchor stirrer rotating at a speed of 100 rev / min. According to the recipe, stone oil is fed into the melt. Preservatives are dissolved in 5% stone oil when heated and the solution is introduced into the melt.

Then the estimated amount of water at a temperature of 75-80 ^about With served in the measuring device.

Water from the measuring device at a temperature of 65 ^{° C} through a nylon filter N 61 is fed to iron enamelled reactor-grade RCHEN 630 l capacity 630 configured steam jacketed anchor type stirrer with a propeller stirrer. At the same time, the calculated amount of dioxiacetone syrup and triethanolamine is administered. Mix the contents with an anchor stirrer at 100 rpm, measure the temperature, which at the time of the start of emulsification should be equal to 55-60 ^about C.

After that include a propeller stirrer and start the pump pumping fat components from the reactor RCHEN-1 through a nylon filter at ⁶⁰ ° C in a reactor RCHEN-630, and at the completion of pumping comprise feeding to the digester reactor jacket parovodnuyu cold water. Emulsification is continued for 15 minutes. Then the propeller stirrer is turned off and the cream is pumped into the refrigerator. At a temperature of 45 ^{° C} parfyumerizuyut cream and stirred for another 15 min.

After cooling, the cream ^at 20 ° C is pumped into the tanks 100-150 l capacity stainless steel for crystallization for 12-24 hours.

 Then, after laboratory analysis, the cream from the tanks is pumped into the hopper by a pump, from where it enters the cremation machine.

 A cream-filling machine with a dosing device performs the filling of the cream into polystyrene jars. The mass of cream in a jar is 38 g + 6%.

 Packaging jars is carried out according to OSTA 18-364-8.

 The cream has emollient properties, improves the uniform distribution of tanning, eliminates the irritating and sensitizing effect, provides a uniform distribution of the active component of dioxiacetone syrup on human skin, which makes it smooth and velvety.

Claims (1)

ARTIFICIAL TAN CREAM, containing olive oil, dioxiacetone syrup, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, perfume and water, characterized in that it additionally contains perfume oil, distilled monoglycerides, cosmetic stearin, triethanolamine and lanolin in the following ratio of components. :
Olive oil 2 - 6
Perfume oil 6 - 8
Distilled Monoglycerides 2 - 4
Cosmetic stearin 2 - 4
Triethanolamine 0.7 - 0.9
Lanolin 2 - 4
Dioxiacetone Syrup 8 - 12
Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.1 - 0.5
Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.08 - 0.12
Fragrance 0.4 - 0.6
Water Else