MXPA02004994A

MXPA02004994A - Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising film forming polymers.

Info

Publication number: MXPA02004994A
Application number: MXPA02004994A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Samain Henri
Original assignee: Oreal
Priority date: 1999-11-19
Filing date: 2000-11-10
Publication date: 2002-09-18
Also published as: FR2801200B1; AU1710601A; JP2003533433A; BR0015691A; FR2801200A1; EP1233739A1; WO2001035910A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least a film forming polymer (A) selected such that the material resulting from drying said polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at room temperature and at a relative humidity rate of 50 %, has a mechanical profile defined by at least (a) an ultimate elongation (egr;r) not less than 160 %; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) ranging between 10 and 68 %; (c) a recovery (R300) at 300 seconds ranging between 30 and 100 %; (d) when the recovery (R300) at 300 seconds ranges between 45 and 60 %, then the ultimate elongation (egr;r) is less than 1300 %; (e) a modulus of elasticity higher than 10 M Pa, measured at a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a traction of 20 mm min.

Description

CAPILLARY COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT PROVIDES GOOD PROPERTIES OF RESISTANCE AND THAT COMPRISES POLYMERS FILMOGEN DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with particular characteristics. The invention also relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hair with the aid of this composition, as well as its use for the formulation of styling products such as lacquers, sprays or foams, with a view to obtaining the maintenance or the conformation of the hairstyle. Among the hair products for the fixation of the most widespread hair on the cosmetics market, there can be mentioned spray compositions in aerosol or atomizer such as lacquers, sprays or foams, essentially constituted by a solution as much as possible. often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and by a fumaric polymer soluble in water or alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.

REF: 138872 However, these hair formulations such as foams, gels and especially sprays and aerosol lacquers designed to maintain the shape of the hairstyle do not yet allow the hairstyle to successfully resist the different natural movements of life such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind. The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic fumaric polymers, which lead to the formation of films that have a more or less hard and brittle character. When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, ie generally less than 2% and the resistance of the hairstyle is not ensured with time. To remedy this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers and obtained more flexible and non-brittle coatings. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that after deformation, they recover their initial shape very little. If the resistance of the hairstyle is improved, it is not yet satisfactory since the shape of the hairstyle evolves with time.

More satisfactory results in terms of strength have been obtained with compositions comprising an association of smoke-forming polymers, such as for example a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions do not yet fully satisfy, inasmuch as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. In addition, it would be desirable to further increase the fixing power. Cosmetic compositions are therefore sought for the maintenance and / or fixation of the hairstyle that provide the hair, in addition to a durable fixation, good cosmetic properties, particularly good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has discovered that it was possible to remedy the technical problems mentioned above, using particular polymers. The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fumaric polymer (A) selected in such a way that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at room temperature and with a percentage of relative humidity of 50%, presents a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) a percentage of elongation at break (e.) greater than or equal to 160%; (b) an instantaneous coating (Ra) comprised between 10 and 68%, (c) a coating (R300) in 300 seconds comprised between 30 and 100%, (d) when the coating (R300) in 300 seconds is comprised between and 60%, then the elongation at break (er) is less than 1300%, (e) a Young's modulus greater than 10 M Pa, measured with a thickness of 0, 5 mm and at a tension of 20 mm / min. Another object of the present invention relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition. Another object of the present invention also relates to the use of this composition for the production of hair cosmetic compositions, with a view to obtaining a maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle. The polymers (A) particularly considered by the present invention are those distributed by AIR PRODUCTS under the name YAY IEG 973 and by SANYO under the name PA Marin UA 310. In the sense of the present invention, it is understood by film obtained by drying ambient temperature (22 + 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity percentage of 50o + 5%, the film obtained under these conditions from a mixture of 6% of active material (ma) of polymer A with ethanol or with water , adapting the amount of mixture to obtain in a Teflon matrix, a film thickness of 500 + 50 μm. The drying is continued until the weight of the film does not evolve further, which represents approximately 12 days. Polymers A that are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form. In the sense of the present invention, the percentage of elongation at break and the percentage of coating are evaluated by means of the tests described below. To perform the tensile tests, the film is cut into small pieces of rectangular shape, with an extension of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.

The tests were carried out in an apparatus marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying, ie a temperature of 22 + 2 ° C and a relative humidity percentage of 50 +. 5 e. The test pieces were stretched at the speed of 20 mm / min and the distance between the jaws was 50 + 1 mm. To determine the instantaneous coating (R.), proceed as follows: - the test piece is stretched 150% (emax) ie 1.5 times its initial length (I0) - the tension is loosened by imposing a return speed equal to the tensile speed, that is 20 mm / mn and the elongation of the test piece is measured in percentage, after the return to zero load (ei). The coating in% (Rx) is facilitated by the formula given below: R_ = ((emax - e / emax) X 100 To determine the coating in 300 seconds, the test piece was held at zero tension for 300 seconds more. that has experienced the preceding operations, and percentages of elongation in percentage were measured (e3oo) • The coating in 300 seconds in% (R300) was given by the formula given below: R300 = ((ema? - e3oc) / emax x) X 100 To measure the Young's modulus or elasticity, a Test piece with the previous dimensions. Preferably, the Young's modulus is greater than 15 MPa. In the compositions according to the invention, the fuminogenic polymer (s) (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the smoke polymer (A) is chosen from the group comprising the polyurethanes, the polyvinyl alcohols, the polymers comprising at least one acrylic unit. Preferably, the (or) smoke-forming polymers (A) are soluble in aqueous or hydroalcoholic medium. The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or mixtures of water-solvent (s), these solvents preferably being C? -C alcohols.

Among these alcohols, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred. The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive selected from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, polymers. non-anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric fixatives, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, modified or not and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended for to be applied on hair.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose the possible compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically related to the composition according to the invention are not substantially altered by the addition considered. . These compositions can be conditioned in various forms, particularly in sprays or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a foam.

Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes. When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or rinated hydrocarbon and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air as the propellant. It is also possible to use mixtures of propellants. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used. Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration of between 10 and 60%.

The compositions according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair. The invention will be illustrated more fully with the help of the following non-limiting examples. All the percentages are percentages related in weight with relation to the total weight of the composition and m.a. means active matter. EXAMPLE: The following compositions according to the invention are made. Composition 1: YAY IEG 973 marketed by AIR PRODUCTS 6 I m.a. 100% neutralized with AMP Water esp 100 g Composition 2: YAY IEG 973 marketed by AIR PRODUCTS neutralized 100% with AMP Alcohol 50% Water esp 100 g Composition 3: UA 310 marketed by SANYO 6% Water esp 100 g Composition 4: UA 310 marketed by SANYO 6% Alcohol esp 100 g Composition 5: 5 UA 310 marketed by SANYO Alcohol 50 Water esp 100 g The parameters that define the mechanical profile of the compositions are indicated in Table I given below. 10 Table I The compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention were applied to wicks of natural Eurocastane hair.

After the conditioning of these compositions in sprays and applications of 10 pressures on wicks of natural hair of 5 grams, previously washed and dried, it was observed that these compositions fix the hairstyle well and provide the hair with a pleasant coated touch. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims

CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fumaric polymer (A) selected in such a way that the material obtained by drying of this polymer in aqueous or alcoholic medium, at room temperature and with a relative humidity percentage of 50%, presents a mechanical profile defined by at least: (a) a percentage of elongation at rupture (er) greater than or equal to 160%; (b) an instantaneous coating (Ri) comprised between 10 and 68%, (c) a coating (R300) at 300 seconds comprised between 30 and 100%, (d) when the coating (R300) in 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation at break (er) is less than 1300%, (e) a Young's modulus greater than 10 M Pa, measured with a thickness of 0.5 mm and at a tension of 20 mm / min.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the Young's modulus is greater than 15 MPa.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that or the smoke-forming polymers (A) are preferably present, in concentrations between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15 by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the smoke polymer (s) (A) (A) is (are) chosen from the group comprising the polyurethanes, the polyvinyl alcohols , the polymers comprising at least one acrylic unit. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains conventional cosmetic additives selected from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, non-anionic, nonionic, cationic or foetid non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, modified or not and any another additive classically used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to hair. 6. Aerosol device, characterized in that it contains a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Method of maintaining or shaping the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises the use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for the manufacture of a hair cosmetic product, with a view to maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle.