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MXPA00001687A - Cosmetic compositions containing an amine polyoxyalkylene silicon block and a conditioning agent and uses - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions containing an amine polyoxyalkylene silicon block and a conditioning agent and uses

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Publication number
MXPA00001687A
MXPA00001687A MXPA/A/2000/001687A MXPA00001687A MXPA00001687A MX PA00001687 A MXPA00001687 A MX PA00001687A MX PA00001687 A MXPA00001687 A MX PA00001687A MX PA00001687 A MXPA00001687 A MX PA00001687A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
composition according
groups
chosen
radical
composition
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/2000/001687A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Serge Restle
Daniele Cauwetmartin
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of MXPA00001687A publication Critical patent/MXPA00001687A/en

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Abstract

The invention concerns novel compositions containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one conditioning agent selected among poly-a-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, silicon insoluble in the medium, mineral, vegetable or animal oils and at least one (AB)n type polyoxyalkylene amine silicon, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least an amine group. Said combination provides cosmetic properties (smoothness, softness) greatly improved compared to the properties obtained by one or the other of the constituents used on its own. Said compositions are used for washing and/ conditioning hair.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A COPOLYMER IN BLOCK BASED ON SILICONE PO IOXIALQUYLENE AMINE AND AN AGENT CONDITIONER AND ITS I IATIONS DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one conditioning agent selected from among the poly-α-olefins, the fluorinated oils, the fluorinated waxes, the fluorinated rubbers, the carboxylic acid esters which have the at least 10 carbon atoms, cationic polymers, insoluble silicones in the medium, mineral, vegetable or animal oils and at least one polyoxyalkylenated amino silicone of type (AB) n / where A is a polysiloxane block and B a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. It is well known that hair that has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or embrittled) to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents or by the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as colorations, discolorations and / or permanent, are a often difficult to untangle and comb, and lack softness. REF .: 32519 It has already been recognized in the compositions for the washing or treatment of keratin materials such as hair, the use of conditioning agents, particularly cationic polymers or silicones, to facilitate the disentangling of the hair and to give them softness and flexibility. However, the cosmetic advantages mentioned above are unfortunately accompanied in the same way, in dry hair, of certain cosmetic effects judged undesirable, namely a heaviness of the hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair), a lack of smoothing (inhomogeneous hair from the root to the tip) and a lack of brightness. In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose has several disadvantages. Due to their strong affinity for the hair, some of these polymers are deposited in an important way during repeated uses, and lead to undesirable effects such as an unpleasant, charged touch, a stiffness of the hair, and an interfiber adhesion that affects the hairstyle. These drawbacks are accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lack vitality and volume. It has also been recommended to improve the conditioning properties of hair products (FR-A-2709954 and FR-A-27 O 9955), use cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair containing the association of a cationic or amphoteric polymer and a non-ionic polyoxyalkylenated silicone of type (AB) n, being To a polysiloxane block and B a polyoxyalkylenated block. However, these compositions do not yet completely satisfy the properties of smoothing and softness imparted to the hair. In addition, the hair is heavy after repeated applications. In summary, it is appreciated that current cosmetic compositions containing conditioning agents do not completely satisfy. The applicant has now discovered that the association of a particular amino-silicone with certain conditioning agents makes it possible to remedy these drawbacks due to a synergistic effect. Thus, as a consequence of important investigations carried out on the subject, it has been found by the Applicant Firm that by introducing a polyoxyalkylenated aminated silicone of type (AB) n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block that includes at least one amine group in the compositions in particular capillaries of the prior art based on conditioning agents, it is possible to limit, even suppress, the problems generally related to the use of such compositions, namely in particular the heaviness, lack of smoothing and softness of the hair, while maintaining the other advantageous cosmetic properties which are inherent in the compositions base of conditioning agents. This association provides clearly improved cosmetic properties in relation to the properties obtained with one or other of the constituents used alone. On the other hand, the compositions of the invention applied on the skin mainly in the form of a foaming bath or shower gel, provide an improvement of the softness of the skin. Thus, according to the present invention, new acceptable compositions are proposed, at least one polyoxyalkylenated amine silicone of type (AB) n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group and at least one conditioning agent. selected from poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated rubbers, esters of carboxylic acids with at least 10 carbon atoms, cetiónicos polymers, insoluble silicones in the medium, mineral, vegetable or animal oils. Another object of the invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratin materials, such as hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The different objects of the invention will be detailed below. The set of meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for the set of objects of the invention. The polyoxylalkylenated amino silicones of type (AB) n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group can be constituted by repeating units of the following general formula: [SiMe2-0- (SiMe20) xSiMe2-R-N (H) -R '-O- (C2H40) a- (C3H60) b -R' N (H) -R-] (I) wherein: a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably comprised between 5 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100, b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100, R, identical or different, represent a divalent organic group that is bonded to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon bond -silicon and a nitrogen atom, R ', identical or different, represent a divalent organic group which is linked to the adjacent oxygen atom by a carbon-oxygen bond and a nitrogen atom, R is preferably a hydrocarbon radical of C2-C12 optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen. More particularly, R denotes an ethylene radical, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene or -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) H2-. R 'is a hydrocarbon radical of C2-X12 optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen. More particularly R 'designates a divalent alkylene radical such as for example ethylene, linear or branched propylene or linear or branched butylene. The siloxane blocks generally represent between 50 and 95% by moles in relation to the total weight of the silicone and more particularly comprised between 70 and 85% in moles. The percentage of amine is generally between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol and more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 and even more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000. The preparation of the block copolymers used within the framework of the present invention is carried out by known processes of the invention. skilled in the art, for example by reacting silicone of α, α -diphoxide or dichlor with a polyoxyalkylene a, β-diamine. The polyoxyalkylenated amino silicone is preferably used in an amount between 0.01 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount is between 0.1 and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 0.5 and 10% by weight. The conditioning agents can be presented in liquid, semi-solid or solid form such as, for example, oils, waxes or gums.
According to the invention, the conditioning agents should be chosen from poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated rubbers and esters of carboxylic acids having at least 10 carbon atoms, cationic polymers, silicones Insoluble in the medium, mineral, vegetable or animal oils and their mixtures. Preferred conditioning agents according to the invention are poly-α-olefins, cationic polymers and silicones insoluble in the medium. The poly-α-olefins are in particular; - polybutene type, hydrogenated or not, and preferably polyisobutene, hydrogenated or not. Preference is given to isobutylene oligomers of molecular weight less than 1,000 and mixtures thereof with polyisobutylenes of molecular weight greater than 1,000 and preferably between 1, 000 and 15, 000. By way of examples of poly-α-olefins, which can be used within the scope of the present invention, the products sold under the name PERMETHYL 99a, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A can more particularly be mentioned. (n = 16) and 106 A (n = 38) by the company PRESPERSE Inc., or also the products sold under the name of ARLAMOL HD (n = 3) by the ICI Company (designating n the degree of polymerization). - Polydecene type, hydrogenated or not. Such products are sold, for example, under the names ETHYLFLO by ETHYL CORP., And ARLAMOL PAO by the ICI Company. The esters of carboxylic acids are preferably insoluble in water at a concentration of 0.1% by weight at 25 ° C. The total carbon number of the esters is greater than or equal to 10 and preferably less than 100 and more particularly less than 80. Preferably, they do not exhibit surfactant properties. The acid esters can be mono, di, tri or tetracarboxy lie. The esters of liquid acids at a temperature less than or equal to 30 ° C are most particularly preferred. The monocarboxylic acid esters are in particular the monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic acids of C? -C2ß and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols of C? -C26, the total carbon number of the esters being higher or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; the isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; the C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; the linoleyl lactate; the oleyl lactate; the octaisoate of (iso) stearyl; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; the oleate of decile; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; the isodecyl oleate; the isononyl isononanoate; isopropyl myristate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; the octyldodecyl erucate; octyldodecyl myristate; the oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, diooctyl maleate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
It is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids of C4-C22 and C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono, di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols of C2-C26. Particular mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; the dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; the dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl msnoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; the propylene glycol dicaprate dicaprylate; the tridecil erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, Butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; the dioctyl malate, the hexyl laurate, the 2-h-exildecilo laurate and the isononyl isononate, the cetyl octanoate. The fluorinated oils, the fluorinated waxes and the fluorinated rubbers are, for example, the perfluoro-polyethers described in particular in the patent application EP-A-486135 and the fluorohydrocarbon compounds described in particular in the patent application WO 93/11103. The teaching of these two applications is fully included in the present application as a reference. The term designated fluorohydrocarbon compounds whose chemical composition includes a carbon structure from which some hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. The fluorinated oils may also be fluorocarbons such as fluoramines, for example perfluorotributylamine, fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluoroesters and fluoroethers. Perfluoropolyethers are, for example, sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS and KRYTOX by the DU PONT company.
Among the fluorohydrocarbon compounds, mention may also be made of the esters of fluorinated fatty acids such as the product sold under the name NOFABLE FO by the company NIPPON OIL. The oils which can be used in the compositions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: - animal or vegetable oils formed by fatty acid esters and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower oils, corn, soya, avocado, jojoba, pumpkin, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, fish oils, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, or vegetable or animal oils of formula RgCOORio in which R9 represents the rest of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and Rio represents a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms in particular alkyl or alkenyl, for example, Purcellin oil or liquid wax from joj oba; natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, oils of eucalyptus, lavender essence, lavender, spikenard, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, nutmeg, cinnamon, caraway hyssop, orange, geraniol, juniper and bergamot; hydrocarbons, such as hexadecane and paraffin oil; - esters of mineral acid and alcohol. The cationic polymer-type conditioning agents which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as enhancers of the cosmetic properties of the hair treated by detergent compositions, namely those described in patent application EP-A -0, 337, 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2, 270, 846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863. Even more generally, in the sense of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the polymer backbone, or be carried by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and about 5,106, and preferably between about 103 and about 3,106. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyamino ida and polyammonium quaternary type. These are known products. Polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, usable according to the present invention, which can be particularly mentioned, are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: (1) Dialkylamino-alkyl vinylpyrrolidone-acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not split, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the ISP Company, such as Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100 or the product called "Copolymére 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573; (2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in the French patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose which have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group; (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and particularly described in US Pat., 131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, dimethyl dialkyl ammonium salt. The products marketed that meet this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company; (4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. They are used by Examples of guar gums modified by a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium. Such products are marketed particularly under the trade names of JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C 162 by the MEYHALL Company; (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals of straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or oxidation products. Quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are particularly described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361; (6) Water-soluble polyamphenamides prepared in particular - by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacidiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide or even an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-halo-acildiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles by an amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they comprise one or more tertiary quaternized amines. Such polymers are particularly described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508; (7) The polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialloylene triamine acid polymers in which the alkyl radical includes 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in the patent frazensa 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethyl-aminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the Sandoz Society; (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two amine groups primary and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar reaction between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being brought to react with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamphenamide comprised between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961, 347. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the Hercules Inc., or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the Hercules Company in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethyltriamine copolymer. (9) The methyl diallylamine or dimethyl diallyl ammonium copolymers such as the homopolymers or copolymers which comprise, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to the formulas (VI) or (VI '): formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum of k + t being equal to 1; R1 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group or Rio and Rn they may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y "is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate.These polymers are particularly described in French patent 2,080,759 and in their certificate of addition 2, 190, 406. The polymers defined above, can be more particularly cited the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the Merck Company and its homologues of low molecular weights by weight. (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units that correspond to the formula: «O L15 - N + - A1 - N + - B - (VII) X - 16 X - formula (VII) in which: 13 R14 and R15 identical or different represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl radicals, or R? 3, RI4 RIS and Ri? r together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which heterocycles are bound, optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or i3 r Ri4 Ris and ee represent a linear or branched C? -C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D group where Ri7 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; i and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or interspersed in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl groups , quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and X "designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, Ai, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which a piperazine cycle is attached; a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also designate a group (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol radical of the formula: -OZ-0-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group that responds to one of the following formulas: - (CH2-CH2-0) X-CH2-CH2 ~ - [CH2-CH (CH3) -0] and -CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y designate an integer of 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a degree of average polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the bivalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of the formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X "is an anion such as chloride or bromide.These polymers have a number average molecular mass generally ranging from 1,000 to 100,000. Polymers of this type are particularly described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271. , 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020 According to the invention, more can be used particularly the polymers selected from the compounds of formula (VII) in which Ri3, R ?, R15 and Ri6 represent the methyl radical, Ax represents the radical of the formula - (CH2) 3- and Bi represents the radical of formula - (CH2) 6 and X "represents the chloride anion and the compound of formula (VII) in which RL3 and i4 represent the ethyl radical, Ri5 and R6 represent the methyl radical, Ax and Bi represent the radical of formula - (CH2) 3- and X "represents the bromide anion. (11) The quaternary polyammonium polymers constituted by units of formula (VIII): formula in which: Ri8r 19 R2o and R21 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ß-hydroxyethyl, ß-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) P0H, where p equals 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris R19, R2o and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, x denotes a halogen atom, A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-CH2-. Such compounds are particularly described in the patent application EP-A-122, 32. For example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZI" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the Miranol Company can be mentioned among these. (12) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and comprising units: CH2-C CH.-C CH, -C I 2 I o = c o = c o = c i I I O NH O I i 72 R.5-N + -R. R25N + -R ".N. 'R, and / or in which the groups R22 independently designate H or CH3, the groups Ax independently designate a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the groups R23, R24 / R25, identical or different, which independently designate an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, the groups R26 and R27 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms; carbon, X2 ~ designates an anion, for example methosulfate or halide, such as chloride or bromide. The compound (s) usable in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of acrylamides, ethacrylamides, diacetone, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted by nitrogen by lower alkyl, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters . (13) The quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (14) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENGLYCOL" (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE "in the CTFA dictionary. (15) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by a crosslinking by an olefinic unsaturation compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. A crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in the mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC 95" by the company ALLIED COLLOIOS. Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and apichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, the cyclopolymers, in in particular the polymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and MERQUAT S "by the Company MERCK, cationic poccharides and more particularly guar gum modified by sodium chloride. , 3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium sold under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by MEYHALL The silicones which can be used according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in the composition and can be present in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. The organopolisoloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology o f Silicones "(1968) Academie Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and more particularly still between: (i) cyclic silicones which include from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably from 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, the decamethylcyclo pentasiloxane marketed under the name " VOLATILE SILICONE 7158"by UNION CARBIDE," SILBIONE 70045 V 5"by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkyl siloxane type, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE EZ 3109" marketed by the UNION CARBIDE Company, of chemical structure: with D: - Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived of silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1'-oxy (2, 2, 2 ', 2', 3, 3 '-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) bis -neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, the decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. The silicones that fall into this class are likewise described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen among the polyalkylsiloxanes, among which the polydimethylsiloxanes of trimethylsilyl end groups with a viscosity of 5.10"6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10" 5 to 1 mVs can be mentioned.
Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned as non-limiting: SILBIONE oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by the RHONE POULENC Company; the oils of the 200 Series of the Dow Corning Company, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA designation) such as the oils of the 48 series of the company RHONE POULENC. In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polyalkyl (C? - C20) siloxanes.
Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1.10"5 to 5.10-2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among the polyalkylaryl siloxanes, the products marketed under the following designations can be mentioned by way of example. : SILBIONE oils of series 70 641 by RHONE POULENC; oils of series RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 by RHONE POULENC; DOW CORNING oil 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID by DOW CORNING; silicones of PK series by BAYER as PK20 product, the silicones of the PN series, PH of BAYER as the products PN1000 and PH1000, some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums usable according to The invention relates in particular to polydiorganosiloxanes with high average molecular masses of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture thereof. a solvent. This solvent can be chosen among the volatile silicones, the polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), poly-phenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof. The following products can be mentioned more particularly: polydimethylsiloxane polydi ethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. The products which are used more particularly according to the invention are mixtures such as: the mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethyl siloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (so-called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the Dow Corning Company; mixtures formed from a poly-dimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid of the GENERAL Company ELECTRIC, this product is an SF 30 rubber that corresponds to a dimethicone, with a molecular weight 500 000 medium number solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to deca ethylcyclopentanosiloxane; mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10 ~ 6 m2 / s. This product preferably includes 15% SE 30 gum and 85% an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems which include the units: R2Si02 / 2 R3SIO1 / 2 RSi03 / 2 and Si0 / 2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical of C 1 -C 4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical. Among these resins, the product marketed under the name "DOW" may be mentioned.
CORNING 593"or those marketed under the names" SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267"by the GENERAL ELECTRIC Society and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of resins of the trimethylisiloxysilicate type marketed in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU. The organo-digested silicones which can be used according to the invention are silicones such as those defined above and which include in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon radical. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes, which include: polyethyleneoxy and polypropyleneoxy groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as ethylene copolyol, sold by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET oils L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711, from the UNION CARBIDE Company and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; - amino groups substituted or not as products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the Company GENESSE or products marketed under the designations Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the Dow Corning Company. The substituted amino groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups of C? -C4; thiol groups such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" of GENES SE; alkoxylated groups such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated groups such as the hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes described in French patent application FR-A-85 16334 corresponding to formula (V): (V) wherein the identical or different R3 radicals are chosen from the methyl and phenyl radicals; designating at least 60 mole% of the R3 methyl radicals; the radical R '3 is an alkylene link divalent hydrocarbon of C2-C? 8; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is between 1 and 150 inclusive; alkoxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732 and corresponding to formula (VII): (SAW) wherein: R4 designates a methyl, phenyl, -OCOR5, hydroxyl group, with one of the R radicals per silicon atom being OH; R 'denotes methyl, phenyl, designating at least 60% in molar proportion of the group of radicals R4 and R'4 methyl; R5 designates C8-C2o alkyl or alkenyl; R "designates a divalent, linear or branched alkylene hydrocarbon radical of C2-C? 8, r is comprised between 1 and 120 inclusive; p is between 1 and 30; q is equal to 0 or is less than 0.5 p, p + q being between 1 and 30; the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) may contain groups: CHj - Si - OH O I in proportions that do not exceed 15% of the sum of p + q + r. anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186,507 of the CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E of the SHIN-ETSU company; 2-hydroxyalkylsulphonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255". hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of product Q2-8413 of the Dow Corning Company. According to the invention, it is also possible to use silicones comprising a portion polysiloxane and a portion consisting of a non-siliconized organic chain, constituting one of the two main chain portions of the polymer with the other being grafted onto said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412, 704, EP-A-412, 707, EP-A-640,105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582,152 and WO 93/23009 and US 4, '693, 935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic. Such polymers are, for example, copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture consisting of: a) from 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate; b) from 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) from 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula: CH, = (CH 2,) '3 -CH, where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the percentages by weight are calculated in relation to the total weight of the monomers.
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) in which, by means of a thiopropylene-type binding link, mixed polymer units of the poly / meth) acrylic type and of the poly (meth) type are grafted. alkyl acrylate and the poly-dimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) in which, polymeric units of the isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate type are grafted, by means of a thiopropylene-type binding link. According to the invention, all silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions. Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are: - the non-volatile silicones selected from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C, such as oils of the DC 200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular the viscosity of 60 000 Cst, of the SILBIONE 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the oil 70 047 V 500 000 marketed by the RHONE POULENC Company, the polyalkylsiloxanes with ethylsilanol end groups such such as dimethiconol or polyalkylaryl siloxanes such as SILIBONE 70641 V 200 oil sold by the company RHONE POULENC; the mixtures of organopolysiloxanes and cyclic silicones such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the Dow Corning Company, and the product SF 1214 marketed by the Company GENERAL ELECTRIC; mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, in particular of a gum and an oil, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name DOW CORNING 593; - polysiloxanes with aminated groups such as amodi ethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones. It is understood that it is possible to use mixtures of conditioning agents. According to the invention, the conditioning agent or agents can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition final. The compositions of the invention further advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount comprised between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant may be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. The surfactants that are suitable for the embodiment of the present invention are particularly the following: (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Its nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a truly critical character. Thus, as anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as a mixture, within the framework of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali metal salts, particularly sodium, ammonium salts, salts thereof). amines, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamino ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; the alkyl sulfosuccinates, the alkylether sulfosuccinates, the alkylamide sulfosuccinates; the alkyl sulfosuccinates; the alkylsulfoacetates; alkylether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; the acyl isethionates and the N-acyltaurates, including the alkyl or acyl radical of all these various compounds, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably being a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which may also be used, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, copra oil acids or hydrogenated copra oil; the acyl lactylates whose acyl radical includes from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use poorly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether (C6-C24) alkyl acids, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl amido ether acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): The nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & They are (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178) and their nature does not, within the framework of the present invention, be critical. Thus, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids with a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms can be chosen from (non-limiting list), the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups particularly between 2 and 50, the number of glycerol groups being able to be screened particularly between 2 and 30. Ethylene oxide and propylene copolymers, ethylene oxide condensates and propylene, on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; the polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; the oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; the sucrose fatty acid esters, the polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, the alkyl polyglycosides, the N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, the amine oxides such as the oxides of alkyl (C? 0-CnJ amines or the oxides of N- acylaminopropylmorpholine It will be appreciated that the alkyl polyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that come particularly well within the scope of the present invention. (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not critical in the context of the present invention, can be particularly (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines , in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amido alkyl (C? -C6) betaines or the alkyl (C8-C2o) amido-alkyl (C? -C6) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of amines, mention may be made of the products marketed under the MIRANOL demonation, such as those described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures: R2-CONHCH2-CH2-N (R3) (R4) (CH2C00 -) (2) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R a carboxymethyl group; and R5-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) in which: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) ZY', with z = 1 or 2, X 'designates the group -CH2CH2-C00H or a hydrogen atom Y 'designates -COOH or the radical -CH2-CHOH-S03H R5 designates an alkyl radical of an acid R9 -COOH present in the copra oil or in the hydrolysed flax oil, an alkyl radical, particularly of C7, C9, Cn_o CX3, an C? 7 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated CX7 radical.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodi-propionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC. In the compositions according to the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and of non-ionic or non-ionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant. An anionic surfactant selected from among sodium (C12-C14) alkyl sulfates, triethanolamine or ammonium sulfates, sodium (C12-C14) alkyl ether sulfates, triethanolamine or oxyethylenated ammonium in 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium alpha-olefin (C ?4-C6) sulfonate and mixtures thereof with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives so-called disodiococoanfo-dipropionate or sodiumcocoanopropionate marketed in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution at 38% active matter or under the name MIRANOL C32; or an amphoteric surfactant of the zwitterionic type such as the alkylbetaines, in particular the cocobetaine marketed under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in aqueous solution at 32% MA by the company HENKEL. It is also possible to use cationic surfactants, among which may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkyl-ammonium or alkyl pyridinium chlorides or bromides; the derivatives of imidazoline; or the amine oxides of cationic character. The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive selected from thickeners, soluble silicones, surfactants, perfumes, pearlizing agents, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone filters, proteins, vitamins, waxes gone, the pseudoceramidas, the waxes and any other a.ditivo classically used in the cosmetic field. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions that can range between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is easily determined by the person skilled in the art according to its nature and function. The compositions according to the invention can be used more particularly for washing or treating keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair. In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and foaming baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, generally aqueous. The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be indistinctly chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above. The quantity and the quality of the washing base are sufficient to confer a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power to the final composition. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as skin or hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition on the keratin materials as defined above, then optionally rinsing with water. Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the hairstyle, the treatment, the care or washing or removing make-up of the skin, hair or any other keratin material. The compositions of the invention can also be presented in the form of after shampooing for rinsing or not, compositions for perming, straightening, coloring or decolorization, or even in the form of compositions for rinsing, for applying before or after coloring, a discoloration, a permanent or a straightening. The compositions of the invention can also be presented in the form of skin cleansing compositions, and in particular in the form of solutions or of gels for bathing or showering or of cleansing products. The compositions according to the invention can also be presented in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or of the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thick lotion or foam and can be used for the skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly the hair.
The compositions can be packaged in various forms, particularly in vaporizers, sprays or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of the hair. In all that follows or above, the percentages expressed are by weight. The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the help of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting to the described embodiments. In the examples, MA means active material.
EXAMPLE 1 Three shampoo compositions were made, one according to the invention (composition A) and the other comparatives (compositions B and C): (MA = Active material) Shampooing was performed by applying approximately 1 g of composition A on 2.7 g wicks of previously wet discolored hair. The shampoo was frothed, allowed to stand for 15 minutes, then rinsed liberally with water. The procedure was carried out in the same way as before with the comparative compositions B and C. A panel of experts evaluated the straightening of the dried hair. The purpose of the test used is to classify, by a jury, each series of 3 samples in increasing or decreasing function of the effectiveness of the unraveling. The 3 rounds of "the same series were presented simultaneously to the jury, they were asked to classify them from the smoothest to the least smooth." The statistical analysis of the results was made with the help of the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124-125 1963).
Results CONCLUSION For the composition A according to the invention, the results obtained with the rovings treated by the compositions containing the mixture of the aminated silicone of type (AB) n and the cationic polymer are significantly higher (at the limit of 5%) than those obtained with the other two compositions each containing the compounds used alone.
EXAMPLE 2 Three shampoo compositions were made, one according to the invention (composition A) and the other comparatives (compositions B and C): (MA Active matter) Shampooing was performed by applying approximately 1 g of composition A on 2.7 g wicks of previously wet discolored hair. The shampoo was frothed, allowed to stand for 15 minutes, then rinsed liberally with water. We proceeded according to the same operative mode as above with comparative compositions B and C. A panel of experts evaluated the straightening of wet hair. The purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 3 samples in increasing or decreasing function of the effectiveness of the unraveling. The 3 wicks of the same series were presented simultaneously to the jury. They were asked to classify them from the smoothest to the least smooth. The statistical analysis of the results was carried out with the help of the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963).
Results CONCLUSION: For the composition A according to the invention, the results obtained with the wicks treated by the compositions containing the mixture of the aminated silicone of type (AB) n and of the poly-α-olefin are significantly higher (to the limit of 5% ) to those obtained with the other two compositions each containing the compounds used alone.
EXAMPLE 3 A shampoo composition according to the invention was made.
(MA = Active material) EXAMPLE 4 A shampoo composition according to the invention was made.
(MA = Active material) EXAMPLE 5 A product was prepared after shampooing with the following composition: Hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name NATROSOL 250 HHR by AQUALON 1 g Mix of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl alcohol 30 OE 3 g Polydimethylsiloxane (DC200-60000 cst from DOW CORNING) 3 g SILSOFT A843 2 g Preservative, perfume cs Water c. s .p. 100 g EXAMPLE 6 An oxidative composition of permanent deformation or straightening of the hair with the following composition was prepared: Mix of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetyl stearyl alcohol 30 OE 4 g Alkylene carboxylic acid monoethanolamide in 2 moles of ethylene oxide (AMINOL A 15 CHEM AND 1 g SILSOFT A843 1 g MA Copolymer of trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride and acrylamide (SALCARE SC92 from ALLIED COLLOID) 0.5 g MA Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 g Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid, pentasodic salt 0.05 g Stabilizer 0.06 g Phosphoric acid 0.17 g Demineralized water c.s.p. 100 g EXAMPLE 7 An oxidative composition of permanent deformation or straightening of the hair with the following composition was prepared: Cetyl alcohol 2 g Stearyl alcohol in 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 0. . 5 g SILSOFT A843 1 g MA Acid cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl alcohol phosphate 3. 2 g Vaseline oil 3 g Hydrogen peroxide 2. 5 g Diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid, pentasodic salt 0. . 15 g Stabilizer 0. . 06 g Phosphoric acid 0. 17 g Demineralized water c.s.p. 100 g It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (24)

RE IVINDICATIONS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property:
1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyoxyalkylenated aminated silicone of type (AB) n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group and at least one conditioning agent selected from poly-a-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated rubbers, esters of carboxylic acids having at least 10 carbon atoms, cationic polymers, insoluble silicones in the medium, mineral, vegetable oils or animals.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated aminated silicone of type (AB) n, is constituted by repetitive units of the following general formula: [SiMe2-0- (SiMe20) xSiMe2-R-N (H) -R '-O- (C2H40) a- (C3H60) b-R' -N (H) -R-] (I) wherein: a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably comprised between 5 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100, b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably comprised between 4 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100, R, identical or different, represent a divalent organic group which is bonded to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon-silicon bond and a nitrogen atom, R ', identical or different, represent an organic group divalent that is attached to the adjacent oxygen atom by a carbon-oxygen bond and a nitrogen atom.
3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said radicals R and R 'are C2-C2 hydrocarbon radicals that optionally include one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen.
4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that said radical R designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) -CH2-.
5. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the radical R 'designates a divalent alkylene radical such as ethylene, linear or branched propylene or linear or branched butylene.
6. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the poly-α-olefins are of the polybutene type, hydrogenated or not, or of the polydecene type, hydrogenated or not.
7. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the acid esters are selected from the dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; the isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; the C12-C? 5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; the lactate of linoleil; the oleyl lactate; the octaisoate of (iso) stearyl; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; the oleate of decile; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; the isodecyl oleate; the isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; the octyldodecyl erucate; octyldodecyl myristate; the oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, diooctyl maleate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate; Diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; the dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; the dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; the pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; the tetraiso- pentaerythrityl nonanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; the propylene glycol dicaprate dicaprylate; the tridecil erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate.
8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the fluorinated oils, the fluorinated waxes, the fluorinated rubbers are chosen from perfluoropolyethers and fluorohydrocarbon compounds.
9. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the said cationic polymer is chosen from the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, the cyclopolymers, the cationic polysaccharides and their mixtures.
10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that said cyclopolymer is chosen from the homopolymers of the diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide.
11. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that said quaternary cellulose ether derivatives are chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
12. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the said cationic polysaccharides are chosen from the guar gums modified by a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.
13. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from the polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition and are present in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
14. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes. selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups as well as their mixtures.
15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that: (a) the polydimethylsiloxanes are selected from: - the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethyl silyl end groups; - the polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups; - the polyalkyl (C? -C20) siloxanes; (b) the polyalkylaryl siloxanes are chosen from: polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 1.10"5 and 5.10-2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C; (c) the silicone gums are chosen from polydiorganosiloxanes with average molecular weights in the range of 200,000 to 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a divalent; (d) the resins are chosen from the resins consisting of units: R Si 0? / 2, R2 Si 02/2 / R Si O3 / 2, Si O4 / 2 wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; (e) the organomodified silicones are chosen from among the silicones comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon radical.
16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the silicone gums used alone or in the form of a mixture are chosen from the following structures: idimethyl siloxane polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenyl siloxane, idimethyl siloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxanes and the following mixtures: mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the chain end and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane; the mixtures formed from a poly-dimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone; and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes of different viscosities.
17. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the organomodified silicones are chosen among the polyorganosiloxanes which comprise: a) polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups; b) amino groups substituted or not; c) thiol groups; d) alkoxylated groups; e) hydroxyalkyl groups which correspond to the following formula: -Si- (V) wherein the identical or different R3 radicals are chosen from the methyl and phenyl radicals; designating at least 60 mole% of the R3 methyl radicals; the radical R '3 is a divalent hydrocarbon alkylene linkage of C2-C? 8; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is between 1 and 150 inclusive; f) acyloxyalkyl groups corresponding to formula (VI): (SAW) wherein: R4 designates a methyl group, phenyl, -OCOR5, hydroxyl, a single one of the radicals R4 per silicon atom which may be OH; R'4 designates methyl, phenyl, designating at least 60 mole% of the group of radicals R4 and R'4 methyl; R5 designates C8-C2o alkyl or alkenyl; R "designates a divalent, linear or branched alkylene hydrocarbon radical of C2-C? 8, r is comprised between 1 and 120 inclusive, p is between 1 and 30, q is equal to 0 or is less than 0.5 p, comprised p + q between 1 and 30, the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) being able to contain groups: I CH3 - Si - OH I O I in proportions that do not exceed 15% of the sum of p + q + r; g) alkylcarboxylic groups, h) 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate groups i) 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate groups j) hydroxyacylamino groups.
18. Composition according to any of claims 13 to 17, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are selected from poplialkylsiloxanes with trimethyl silyl end groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mixtures of two PDMS consisting of a gum and an oil. of different viscosities, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones, resins of organopolysiloxanes.
19. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized because it also comprises at least one surfactant agent selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present in a concentration comprised between 0.1% and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent is present in a concentration comprised between 0.001% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005% and 7% in weight and in particular between 0.01% and 5% by weight.
22. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in shampoo form, composition after shampooing, composition for the permanent, the straightening, the coloring or the discoloration of the hair, of composition to clarify to apply between the two stages of a permanent or of a straightening, of washing composition for the body.
23. Use of a composition according to any of the preceding claims for washing or for the care of keratin materials.
24. Process for the treatment of keratin materials, such as hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 22 on said materials. OLIMERO IN BLOCK BASED ON SILICONE POLIOXIALQUYLENE AMINE AND AN AGENT CONDITIONER AND ITS UTILIZATIONS SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one conditioning agent selected from poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated rubbers, carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers. , the insoluble silicones in the medium, the mineral, vegetable or animal oils and at least one polyoxyalkylenated amino silicone of type (AB) n being A a polysiloxane block and B a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. This association provides cosmetic properties (smoothing, softness) clearly improved in relation to the properties obtained with one or other of the constituents used alone. These compositions are used for the washing and / or conditioning of the hair.
MXPA/A/2000/001687A 1997-08-25 2000-02-17 Cosmetic compositions containing an amine polyoxyalkylene silicon block and a conditioning agent and uses MXPA00001687A (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR97/10617 1997-08-25

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MXPA00001687A true MXPA00001687A (en) 2001-05-07

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