KR940011566B1 - How to make polyester fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

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Description

How to make polyester fabric

The present invention relates to a polyester fabric having bulkyness and a soft hand.

It is well known to use blended yarns having different shrinkage ratios as a method of improving the feel in thin fabrics using polyester filament yarns.

In this method, however, the shrinkage difference is not sufficiently expressed because the yarn is constrained to the tissue of the fabric, and therefore, the assumed touch does not appear.

In order to improve this problem, a method of making a fabric by mixing polyester filaments having spontaneous elongation with polyester filaments shrinking in ordinary heat has been proposed (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 46-23785).

In this method, the elongation of spontaneous kidney is expressed without any significant limitation on the tissue binding force of the fabric, so that the contraction is more desirable than other blended yarns, and the overall contraction can be made smaller, so that the knee is not stretched. Good fabrics were obtained, but filament cracking was prone to occur and weaving was also poor due to insufficient inadequate and poor focusing properties.

The present invention provides a multifilament (A) having a spontaneous elongation satisfying the following formula and a multifilament (B) having a dry heat shrinkage rate of 160 ° C. differs from the multifilament (A) with an interlocking degree of 20 to 100. It is a method for producing a polyester fabric, characterized in that weaving and then weaving a set and / or arc (부 付), dried and then weaved as a warp and / or weft of the fabric at 85 ℃ or less.

0% SHD(A)

0%SHW (A)

0% SHD (A)

0%

0%SHW (B)

0%

5%SHD (B) -SHD (A)

5%

DE (A) 50%

SHW: Heat Shrinkage (%)

SHD: Dry heat (160 ℃) Shrinkage (%)

DE: elongation at break (%)

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

First, the multifilament exhibiting spontaneous elongation (hereinafter referred to as spontaneous elongation yarn) by heat referred to in the present invention is stretched without heat treatment, for example, polyester unstretched yarn (preferably non-stretched yarn which is spun at high speed). It can be obtained by relaxation heat treatment at. Of course, the manufacturing method of spontaneous extension yarn is not limited to the said method. In the dry heat treatment at spontaneous elongation at 160 ° C., it is preferable that spontaneous elongation of 0 to 15% is exhibited, the heat shrinkage is at least 0% and the elongation at break is at least 50%. Next, heat-shrinkable multifilament (hereinafter referred to as heat shrink yarn) is a polyester multifilament obtained by a conventional method, preferably having a breaking strength of 4 g / denier or more and breaking elongation of 40% or less. It is preferable that the dry heat shrinkage difference is 10% or more at 占 폚.

The heat-shrinkable yarn may be so-called thick and thin yarn, but the single yarn denier is preferably 0.5 to 5 denier in consideration of balanced touch.

The thermal contraction rate may be in the range of 5 to 30%. If it is less than 5%, it is not preferable because there is a problem of production cost coming from the facility constraint or deterioration of the object coming from the drawing condition.

In addition, when 30% is exceeded, the length value of the yarn is increased during post-processing, but the bulkiness of the surface yarn is tended, but since the seek and gentleman is completely disposed at the core of the composite yarn, there is a tendency that it is impossible to express even the shade of color. In view of the retention of the object after post-processing, the degree of orientation (Δn) has a thin portion of 15 to 60 × 10 ⁻³ , more preferably 20 to 40 × 10 ⁻³ , and a thick portion of 90 × 10. ^-3 or more, More preferably, it is 160 * 10 <^-3> or more.

In general, when the dye and seek dyes have a joke difference, there is a drawback that the joke difference is too strong, but such composite yarn is heat-treated, the seek and gentleman is placed on the inner layer, the spontaneous extension is placed on the outer layer, the seek and gentleman Too strong joke difference is moderately obscured by spontaneous extension and becomes natural color difference.

It is then essential to entangle the spontaneous extension and heat shrinkage. Simple composite yarn blending is not preferable because loops are likely to occur due to the difference in physical properties between spontaneous extension yarns and contractile yarns, and the thread is easily caught by guides due to post-processing such as additional twisting, joining, long diameter, and weaving.

In addition, the entanglement here is most preferably a method in which the spontaneous extension yarn and the contraction yarn are introduced into the fluid disturbance zone and subjected to interlace treatment. Here, the degree of entanglement (iL value) is preferably set to 20 to 100 / m in order to obtain a uniform appearance with handleability and woven fabric in a post process such as additional flammability, diameter, and weaving.

Spontaneously stretchable polyester multifilament and shrinkable polyester multifilament are easily separated from 20 pieces / m or less, and the handleability of the next process falls. If it exceeds 100 / m, no uniform appearance is obtained in the compilation.

In addition, it is preferable that spontaneous elongation yarn and heat shrink yarn are mixed at a ratio of (20/80)% to (80/20)% in a denier ratio.

This is because if the spontaneous elongation rate is less than 20%, there is a lack of spongy characteristic unique to spontaneous elongation, that is, lack of bulkiness and more than 80%.

Next, a release cross section having at least one concave portion on the outer circumferential surface of spontaneous elongation and l or shrinkage yarns is preferable in terms of dry touch, and when the fine particles such as TiO ₂ are contained, the surface of the dull effect and alkali It becomes micropores after weight loss, and is preferable in terms of dyeability and dry touch. Moreover, it is preferable to have a hollow in terms of sublime property, heat retention, etc., and the combination of these is used suitably as needed.

Moreover, it is also preferable to use the polyester fiber which copolymerized sulfonate metal salt etc. as needed.

Next, further flammability of the present composite multifilament is essential. This is because spontaneous extension yarns and shrinkage yarns constituting the composite multifilament have a large dyeing difference, so it is easy to cause moire patterns and stains due to the dyeing difference. This is because it becomes somewhat irregular and degrades the quality, and when tension is applied in the diameter, arc, and weaving process, the degree of entanglement is lowered, the loop is bundled, and the weaving property is lowered.

K

6000 또는 7000

25000, 추가 가연수(T/m)=K/

Additional flammable water is 1100

K

6000 or 7000

25000, Additional Combustible Water (T / m) = K /

K: Number of links

K

6000의 경우는 호부, 건조를, 추가 가연수가 7000

K

25000의 경우는 연지 세트를 시행하면 된다.Should be good. The set is then performed, but the additional flammable water is 1100

K

In the case of 6000, it is called 부, dry, and additional flammable water is 7000

K

In the case of 25000, you can perform a roll set.

However, it is preferable to perform all at 85 degrees C or less.

In addition, the sheet is preferably 70 ° C or lower.

This should be set at low temperature for the following reasons.

(1) By drying heat treatment in sizing, the crystallization of the fiber proceeds, the spontaneous elongation to be expressed by the weaving dyeing process is reduced, and a fabric with sufficient swelling is not obtained.

長差)가 별현되고, 제직성이 나빠진다.② Carrying out dry heat treatment in house part

長 差) is manifested, weaving worsens.

Moreover, as for arc part temperature, room temperature-50 degreeC, and drying are preferable 75 degreeC or less, and acrylic filaments are used for a normal filament as a foil. As for the blowing machine, the cylinder type of Tsudamama and the product of Kawamodo Seiki Co., Ltd. are used, the first chamber is around 70 ° C, the second chamber is around 75 ° C, and the draft in the chamber is preferably low, and 0.1 to 0.2 g / d. Is preferred.

Of course, what is necessary is just to have a low temperature set effect also by methods other than the said method.

製織)이 좋다.The composite multifilament thus obtained is woven in a warp and / or weft by a conventional method, but is preferably a low woven fabric such as water zetium.

製 織) is good.

)의 작동중에 아무래도 모우가 발생하기 쉽기 때문이다.If this is user weaving,

This is because moss is likely to occur during the operation of).

By heat treatment (110-200 degreeC) the fabric thus obtained by normal post-processing etc., the spontaneous elongation component is extended-expressed and becomes a soft-textured soft-textile fabric with good touch.

EXAMPLE

Hereinafter, an Example demonstrates this invention concretely.

The measurement of the hydrothermal shrinkage rate and dry heat elongation rate prescribed | regulated here was performed as follows according to JIS-L-1073B method (1977) and JIS-L-1073 (A method) 6.12.

a. Heat shrinkage

The sample is subjected to a 0.1125 g / d superload using a 1.125m perimeter detector, rewinds at a speed of 120 times / min, produces a small failure with 20 turns, and a 40 times weight of the superload, Measure the failure length l ₀ (mm).

Next, the weight is removed and soaked in boiling water for 30 minutes in such a way that the contraction is not hindered, taken out, and the water is wiped off with a blotter paper or cloth and dried naturally in a horizontal state.

Run the weight again and measure the failure length l ₁ (mm).

The hydrothermal export rate is calculated by

The average of five test sessions shall be taken as a measurement.

b. Dry heat

Load 1/30 g / d on the sample and measure its length l ₀ (mm). Subsequently, the load is removed and the sample is placed in a dryer and dried at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes.

After drying, it is cooled, and a load of 1/30 g / d is again applied to measure the length L ₁ (mm).

The dry heat elongation rate is calculated by the following equation, and the average value of five measurements is taken as the measured value.

c. Gyorakdo

Take out the appropriate length of thread and hang it vertically with a load of 1 / 10g / denier at the bottom.

(cm)를 구하여 다음식에 의해 산출한다.Next, measure the distance ℓ (cm) 100 times by moving the appropriate needle in the middle and lifting it slowly until the load is lifted up.

(cm) is calculated and calculated by the following equation.

EXAMPLES 1-2, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1-6

Self-extending multifilament of 29 denier 18 filaments (DT 3.2g / d, DE 76%, SHW 1.0%, 160 ℃ SHD-4.0%, triangular cross section) and 30 denier 18 filaments of heat shrinkable multifilament (DT5.5g / d, DE31.0%, SHW14.0%, 160 ° C SHD 18.0%) are mixed in the conditions indicated in the first table at the ratio of 50/50 in the denier ratio, and then further burning is carried out to further set the roll. Or hot and dried.

The resultant composite yarn was woven in water jet rom (slope density of 160 bones / inch, weft density of 100 papers / inch), and normal dyeing processing was performed. The results are shown in the first table.

[Table 1]

Mixed fiber loops: 5 or less 10 or less 11 or more

(Number of funnel surfaces)

Speaker trimming: 2% or less 5% or less 6% or less

Weaving utilization rate: 95% or more, 90% or more, less than 90%

Fabric Tactile: Based on tactile sensory evaluation by ten people

○ Both soft feeling drape feeling is good

△ It is defective in a feeling of software, a feeling of drape

× 빳빳

Fabric uniformity: As a checker, sharp lint, streaks, and other defects of the fabric were evaluated.

○ None, △ stand out

× remarkably noticeable

[Examples 3 to 5 and Comparative Examples 7, 8]

Using a polyester bright chip, it was discharged using a nozzle of No. 18 with a Y-shaped hole at a spinning temperature of 289 ° C., and wound up at a speed of 2200 m / min. The unstretched yarn was used to change the draw heat treatment conditions to obtain a coarse and fine pore yarn of 30 denier 18 filaments with different heat shrinkage (shown in the second table).

The orientation degree (triangle | delta) n of a big part was 25x10 <^-3> , and the orientation degree (triangle | delta) n of detail was 150x10 <^{-3> in this} pomp.

Moreover, using the same bright chip, it discharged using the No. 24 nozzle which has a Y-shaped hole at the spinning temperature of 289 degreeC, and wound up at the winding speed of 3000 m / min.

After stretching the undrawn yarn at a hot roller temperature of 80 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.65 times, the relaxed yarn and the heat treatment temperature were changed to obtain a drawn yarn of 30 denier 24 filaments having different elongation characteristics (shown in the second table).

The poised yarn and the stretched yarn were combined to interweave the air at a pressure of 3.0 kg / cm 2 · G by means of an interlacer nozzle to obtain a mixed fiber of 60 denier 42 filaments.

This blended yarn was subjected to additional twisting of 450 S / year of S-lead, and was made without being protected as a slope.

Weft yarns of ordinary 75 denier 72 filament semi-dull polyester yarns are prepared with S.Z lead 3000T / m lecture set yarns, and the weaving density of 163 sheets / inch weft density 96 sheets / inch Desicin was woven into a 44-inch wide fabric in a water jet room (LW-41 from Nissansha, 400 rpm) and subjected to normal post-processing.

The results of evaluation of the finished fabric are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

This results in a very novel type of silky fabric of the present invention (Examples 3 · 4 · 5), which is excellent in touch, drape and bulkiness, at the same time having moderate jangyo or tear strength, and having a natural light tonal difference. Could.

In comparison, Comparative Example 7 was inferior in touch, drape, and bulkiness because the stretch yarn component contracted.

In Comparative Example 8, since the mixed fibers and stretched yarn components similar to those in Comparative Example 1 shrink, good touch does not come out unless the reduction ratio is increased.

However, tear strength fell and bulkiness fell.

[Table 2]

Component A: poem yarn, B: kidney yarn

Tear strength: tear strength in the transverse direction

[Table 3]

※ It evaluated by visual test by ten people.

As described above, the method of manufacturing the polyester fabric of the present invention is a process passability, fabric entanglement, drape, softness, light contrast, and the like, compared to a fabric composed of a conventional spun stretch multifilament yarn and a heat shrink multifilament yarn. It is a method of manufacturing a fabric having an excellent effect.

Claims (7)

Multifilament (A) having spontaneous elongation that satisfies the following formula, and multifilament (B) having a different dry heat shrinkage rate of 160 ° C from this multifilament (A) is twisted composite multifilament entangled with the degree of entanglement 20 to 100 A method of producing a polyester fabric, characterized in that the woven set and / or arc, dried and then weaved as a warp and / or weft of the fabric below 85 ℃. SHW (A)

0% SHD (A)

0% SHW (B)

0% SHD (B) -SHD (A)

5% DE (A) 50% SHW: Hydrothermal Shrinkage (%) SHD: Dry heat (160 ℃) Shrinkage (%) DE: elongation at break (%) The method of claim 1 wherein the composite multifilament is 1100

K

Method for producing a polyester fabric, characterized in that it is further flammable to 6000. The method of claim 1, wherein the composite multifilament is 7000

K

Method for producing a polyester fabric, characterized in that it is further combustible at 25000. The method for producing a polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament (A) is a polyester multifilament having 0 to 15% elongation by dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. without a difference in physical properties indoors. The method of producing a polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament (B) is a polyester multifilament having a coarse stain in the fiber axis direction at a hydrothermal shrinkage of 5 to 30%. The method for producing a polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament (A) and / or the multifilament (B) is a release cross section having at least one concave portion on the outer circumferential surface. The method for producing a polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament (B) has a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C of 0% or less and an elongation difference of at least 5% from the multifilament (A).