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KR102129971B1 - Method for manufacturing processed fiber and method for inhibiting damage to processed fiber, animal fiber, and method for processing animal fiber - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing processed fiber and method for inhibiting damage to processed fiber, animal fiber, and method for processing animal fiber Download PDF

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KR102129971B1
KR102129971B1 KR1020187009161A KR20187009161A KR102129971B1 KR 102129971 B1 KR102129971 B1 KR 102129971B1 KR 1020187009161 A KR1020187009161 A KR 1020187009161A KR 20187009161 A KR20187009161 A KR 20187009161A KR 102129971 B1 KR102129971 B1 KR 102129971B1
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fiber
fibers
wool
animal
keratin
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KR20180042429A (en
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미쓰히로 시마
쇼조 도리고에
요시히로 야마시타
세이지 시모다
세이지 겐조
유이치 쓰다
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가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼
도요 우모 고교 가부시키가이샤
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/15Proteins or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/12Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen combined with specific additives
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/46General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10Animal fibres

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리한 경우에 있어서도, 섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처와 내광성이 유지되고, 원하는 색상을 실현할 수 있는 가공섬유의 제조방법 및 상기 가공섬유, 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법을 제공한다.
동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하여 가공섬유를 제조하는 방법에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정을 포함하는 가공섬유의 제조방법이다.
The present invention, even when the animal fiber is bleached and / or dyed, the unique texture and light resistance of the fiber is maintained, the manufacturing method of the processed fiber capable of realizing the desired color and the processing fiber, animal fiber damage control Methods and methods of processing animal fibers are provided.
In a method of manufacturing processed fibers by bleaching and/or dyeing animal fibers, it is a method of manufacturing processed fibers including a step of immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution.

Description

가공섬유의 제조방법 및 상기 가공섬유, 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법Method for manufacturing processed fiber and method for inhibiting damage to processed fiber, animal fiber, and method for processing animal fiber

본 발명은, 표백 및/또는 염색처리된 가공섬유의 제조방법 및 상기 가공섬유, 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing bleached and/or dyed processed fibers, and to a method for inhibiting damage to processed fibers, animal fibers, and processing methods for animal fibers.

동물섬유를 사용한 섬유제품에 있어서, 텍스처(texture)와 색상은 제품의 가치를 판단하는 데에 중요한 인자이다. 동물섬유의 텍스처는 「부드럽다」, 「매끄럽다」, 또는 「실키(silky)하다」 등으로 표현되며, 상기 섬유를 채취하여, 정련(精練) 이외의 화학적 처리를 하지 않은 상태가 가장 텍스처가 우수하다고 여겨진다. 또한 색상에 대해서는 목적에 따라 염색이 이루어지지만, 백색 또는 극담색(極淡色)으로부터 담색(淡色)의 선명한 색상이 요구될 때에는, 염색에 앞서 섬유를 표백할 필요가 있다. 그 때문에, 종래부터 과산화수소를 사용한 산화표백 또는 하이드로설파이트나 아황산수소나트륨을 사용한 환원표백이 이루어지고 있다. 그러나 이들 표백에서는, 장시간의 가열과 알칼리제가 필요하게 되어 섬유가 손상됨으로써, 동물섬유가 갖는 부드러움이나 실키하다고 하는 독특한 텍스처의 저하를 야기하게 되어 버린다.In textile products using animal fibers, texture and color are important factors in determining product value. The texture of the animal fibers is expressed as "soft", "smooth", or "silky", and the state in which the fibers are collected and not subjected to chemical treatment other than refining is the most excellent in texture. Is considered. In addition, although the color is dyed according to the purpose, when a vivid color from white or ultra light blue to light blue is required, it is necessary to bleach the fiber before dyeing. Therefore, conventionally, oxidation bleaching using hydrogen peroxide or reduction bleaching using hydrosulfite or sodium hydrogen sulfite has been performed. However, in these bleaching, a long period of heating and an alkali agent are required, and the fibers are damaged, which causes the softness of the animal fibers and the deterioration of a unique texture such as silkiness.

그래서 텍스처의 저하를 야기하지 않고 충분한 백색도(白色度)를 얻는 표백방법의 개발이 시도되어 왔다. 예를 들면 폴리카르복시산계 폴리머 및 아민계 화합물을 함유한 표백조제(漂白助劑)(특허문헌1)나, 히드록시알킬포스핀 및 그 유도체와 알칼리성 단백질 분해효소를 처리하는 방법(특허문헌2)이 제안되어 있다. 그러나 텍스처의 저하억제나 내광성(耐光性)에 있어서 충분하다고는 할 수 없다.Therefore, development of a bleaching method that obtains sufficient whiteness without causing texture degradation has been attempted. For example, a bleaching agent containing a polycarboxylic acid-based polymer and an amine-based compound (Patent Document 1), or a method of treating hydroxyalkylphosphine and its derivatives with an alkaline protease (Patent Document 2) Is proposed. However, it cannot be said that it is sufficient in suppressing the deterioration of texture or in light resistance.

또한 동물섬유에 대하여 내광성을 향상시키는 방법으로서는, 예를 들면 자외선흡수제를 사용하는 방법(특허문헌3), 저급 인산 및 저급 인산염을 부여하는 방법(특허문헌4), 형광증백제를 부여하는 방법(특허문헌5) 등이 제안되어 있다. 그러나 그 효과는 반드시 충분하다고 할 수 없고, 텍스처를 해치거나 인체에 대한 안전성도 염려된다.In addition, as a method of improving light resistance to animal fibers, for example, a method using an ultraviolet absorber (Patent Document 3), a method of imparting lower phosphoric acid and lower phosphate (patent document 4), and a method of imparting a fluorescent whitening agent ( Patent documents 5) and the like have been proposed. However, the effect is not necessarily sufficient, and the texture is harmed or the safety of the human body is concerned.

한편 동물로부터 유래하는 단백질을 동물섬유에 결합시켜, 동물로부터 유래하는 단백질이 갖는 성질을 섬유에 부여하는 방법은 종래부터 제안되어 있다(특허문헌6∼8). 예를 들면 세리신을 디클로로트리아진계 화합물과 함께 섬유에 사용함으로써 내구성, 형태안정성을 부여하는 것(특허문헌6), 동물성 단백질 섬유의 천(cloth)에 형성된 형상의 고정처리에 있어서, 천을 콜라겐 단백 유도체 및 피브로인 단백 용액 또는 케라틴 용해액에 흡착처리함으로써, 텍스처나 두께감을 유지하는 것(특허문헌7), 수모(獸毛) 단백 수용액과 가교제(架橋劑)의 존재하에서 단백섬유제품을 침지시킴으로써, 단백섬유제품의 물성을 개량하고, 단백섬유제품을 농색화(濃色化)하는 것(특허문헌8) 등이 보고되어 있다.On the other hand, a method of binding a protein derived from an animal to an animal fiber and imparting properties of the protein derived from the animal to the fiber has been conventionally proposed (Patent Documents 6 to 8). For example, by using sericin in combination with a dichlorotriazine-based compound to impart durability and form stability (Patent Document 6), in fixing treatment of a shape formed on a cloth of animal protein fiber, the cloth is a collagen protein derivative And fibroin protein solution or keratin soluble solution, thereby maintaining texture and thickness (Patent Document 7), by immersing the protein fiber product in the presence of a water-soluble aqueous protein solution and a crosslinking agent. It has been reported to improve the properties of textile products and to enrich protein fiber products (Patent Document 8).

그러나 케라틴 가수분해물에, 표백이나 염색처리에 의하여 생기는 동물섬유의 텍스처나 내광성의 저하를 억제하는 작용이 있다는 것은 지금까지 알려져 있지 않았다.However, it has not been known until now that keratin hydrolyzate has an effect of suppressing degradation of texture and light resistance of animal fibers caused by bleaching or dyeing treatment.

: 일본국 공개특허 특개2005-146442호 공보: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2005-146442 : 일본국 공개특허 특개평11-172580호 공보: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-172580 : 일본국 공개특허 특개평2-242970호 공보: Publication of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-242970 : 일본국 공개특허 특개평5-156573호 공보: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-156573 : 일본국 공표특허 특표2001-518919호 공보: Publication of Japanese Patent Publication No. 2001-518919 : 일본국 공개특허 특개2004-44055호 공보: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2004-44055 : 일본국 공개특허 특개평1-280074호 공보: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 1-280074 : 일본국 공개특허 특개평6-341058호 공보: Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 6-341058

본 발명은, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리한 경우에 있어서도, 섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처와 내광성이 유지되고, 원하는 색상을 실현할 수 있는 가공섬유의 제조방법 및 상기 가공섬유, 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법을 제공하는 것에 관한 것이다.The present invention, even when the animal fiber is bleached and / or dyed, the unique texture and light resistance of the fiber is maintained, the manufacturing method of the processed fiber capable of realizing the desired color and the processing fiber, animal fiber damage control It relates to providing a method and a method for processing animal fibers.

본 발명자들은, 상기 과제를 감안하여 예의 연구를 거듭한 결과, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하는 경우의 어느 하나의 공정에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 처리를 함으로써, 섬유의 손상이 억제되어, 동물섬유가 본래 갖는 텍스처 및 내광성을 유지하면서 원하는 색상을 실현시킨 가공섬유를 제조할 수 있다는 것을 찾아내었다.The present inventors have conducted extensive studies in view of the above problems, and as a result, in any process in the case of bleaching and/or dyeing animal fibers, the fibers are immersed in a hydrolyzed keratin solution. The damage was suppressed, and it was found that it is possible to manufacture a processed fiber that realizes a desired color while maintaining the texture and light resistance inherent to the animal fiber.

즉 본 발명은 이하의 1)∼10)에 관한 것이다.That is, the present invention relates to the following 1) to 10).

1) 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하여 가공섬유를 제조하는 방법에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지(浸漬)시키는 공정을 포함하는 가공섬유의 제조방법.1) In a method of manufacturing processed fibers by bleaching and/or dyeing animal fibers, a method of manufacturing processed fibers including a step of immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution.

2) 가수분해 케라틴 용액이, 0.01∼1질량% 농도의 가수분해 케라틴 용액인 1)의 방법.2) The method of 1), wherein the hydrolyzed keratin solution is a hydrolyzed keratin solution having a concentration of 0.01 to 1% by mass.

3) 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정이, 표백 및/또는 염색공정의 전 및 후에 이루어지는 1) 또는 2)의 방법.3) The method of 1) or 2) in which the step of immersing in the hydrolyzed keratin solution is performed before and after the bleaching and/or dyeing process.

4) 가수분해 케라틴이, 양모(羊毛) 또는 우모(羽毛)로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴인 1)∼3) 중의 어느 하나의 방법.4) The method of any one of 1) to 3), wherein the hydrolyzed keratin is hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool or wool.

5) 가수분해 케라틴이, 수평균분자량(數平均分子量) 10,000∼130의 가수분해 케라틴인 1)∼4) 중의 어느 하나의 방법.5) The method of any one of 1) to 4), wherein the hydrolyzed keratin is a hydrolyzed keratin having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 to 130.

6) 동물섬유가 양모, 캐시미어(cashmere), 모헤어(mohair), 낙타모(camel hair), 라마(llama), 알파카(alpaca), 비큐나(vicuna), 앙고라(angora), 밍크(mink) 및 실크(silk) 중에서 선택되는 1종 또는 2종 이상인 1)∼5) 중의 어느 하나의 방법.6) Animal fiber is wool, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, llama, alpaca, vicuna, angora, mink and Method of any one of 1) to 5) selected from one or more of silk.

7) 동물섬유가 방적사(紡績絲)인 1)∼6) 중의 어느 하나의 방법.7) The method of any one of 1) to 6) in which the animal fibers are spun yarn.

8) 동물섬유의 표백 및/또는 염색처리에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정을 포함하는 상기 섬유의 손상억제방법.8) In the bleaching and/or dyeing treatment of animal fibers, a method for inhibiting damage to the fibers comprising the step of immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution.

9) 동물섬유의 가공방법으로서, 표백 및/또는 염색처리의 전 혹은 후 또는 전후에, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정을 포함하는 방법.9) As a method for processing animal fibers, a method comprising immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution before or after bleaching and/or dyeing treatment.

10) 1)∼7) 중의 어느 하나의 방법에 의하여 제조된 가공섬유.10) Processed fiber produced by any one of 1) to 7).

본 발명의 가공섬유의 제조방법, 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법에 의하면, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색할 때에 생기는 섬유손상을 억제 또는 수복(修復)할 수 있어, 동물섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처를 손상시키지 않고, 강도 및 내광성이 유지된 가공섬유를 제조할 수 있다. 또한 본 발명의 방법은, 천연으로부터 유래하는 케라틴 단백질의 가수분해물을 사용하기 때문에, 인체나 환경 등에 큰 악영향을 끼칠 염려가 없이 실시할 수 있다.According to the manufacturing method of the processed fiber of the present invention, the method for inhibiting damage to the animal fiber and the method for processing the animal fiber, it is possible to suppress or repair the fiber damage caused when the animal fiber is bleached and/or dyed. It is possible to manufacture a processed fiber that maintains strength and light resistance without damaging the unique texture it possesses. In addition, since the method of the present invention uses a hydrolyzate of keratin protein derived from nature, it can be carried out without fear of having a great adverse effect on the human body or the environment.

도1은, 가수분해 케라틴의 SDS-PAGE이다.
도2는, 메틸렌블루 염색 전후의 섬유면 사진이다.
도3은, 실시예5∼7 및 비교예3의 ATR-FTIR 스펙트럼이다.
도4는, 실시예11∼12 및 비교예3의 ATR-FTIR 스펙트럼이다.
도5는, 메틸렌블루 염색 전후의 섬유면 사진이다.
1 is SDS-PAGE of hydrolyzed keratin.
2 is a photograph of the fiber surface before and after dyeing methylene blue.
3 is an ATR-FTIR spectrum of Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Example 3.
4 is an ATR-FTIR spectrum of Examples 11 to 12 and Comparative Example 3.
5 is a photograph of the fiber surface before and after dyeing methylene blue.

본 발명의 가공섬유의 제조방법은, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하여 가공섬유를 제조하는 방법에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지(浸漬)시키는 공정을 포함하는 것이다.The manufacturing method of the processed fiber of the present invention is a method of manufacturing a processed fiber by bleaching and/or dyeing animal fibers, and includes a step of immersing the fiber in a hydrolyzed keratin solution.

본 발명에 있어서 동물섬유는, 방적(紡績)에 사용될 수 있는 것으로서, 그 형태는 단섬유, 장섬유, 방적사, 편물, 직물, 펠트 등 어느 것이더라도 좋고, 또한 의복, 침구, 쿠션, 봉제완구 등의 섬유제품이더라도 좋다.Animal fibers in the present invention, which can be used for spinning (紡績), the form may be any of short fibers, long fibers, spun yarn, knitted fabrics, felts, and also clothing, bedding, cushions, plush toys, etc. It may be a textile product.

여기에서 동물섬유로서는, 예를 들면 양모(羊毛), 캐시미어(cashmere), 모헤어(mohair), 낙타모(camel hair), 라마(llama), 알파카(alpaca), 비큐나(vicuna), 앙고라(angora), 밍크(mink), 실크(silk) 등을 들 수 있다. 이러한 동물섬유는 단독으로 사용하여도 좋고, 2종 이상을 혼합하여 사용하여도 좋다.Here, as animal fibers, for example, wool, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, llama, alpaca, vicuna, angora ), mink, silk, and the like. These animal fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

본 발명의 가공섬유는, 상기의 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하여 얻어지는 것이고, 따라서 표백처리섬유, 염색처리섬유, 표백 및 염색처리섬유가 포함된다.The processed fiber of the present invention is obtained by bleaching and/or dyeing the above animal fibers, and thus includes bleached fiber, dyed fiber, bleached and dyed fiber.

본 발명에 있어서 표백처리는, 동물섬유의 백색도(白色度)를 향상시키기 위하여 실시되는 처리로서, 예를 들면 과산화수소와 계면활성제를 함유하는 수용액, 과산화수소와 규산나트륨을 함유하는 수용액 등을 사용하여 이루어진다. 또한 염색처리는 특별히 한정되지 않고, 액류법(液流法), 지거법(jigger process), 빔법(beam process), 콜드패드배치법(cold pad batch process), 패드스팀법(pad steam process), 패드롤법(pad roll process), 연속법(連續法) 등을 사용할 수 있어, 동물섬유의 종류에 따라 사용하는 염료 및 염색방법을 적절하게 선정하면 좋다.In the present invention, the bleaching treatment is a treatment performed to improve the whiteness of animal fibers, for example, using an aqueous solution containing hydrogen peroxide and a surfactant, an aqueous solution containing hydrogen peroxide and sodium silicate, and the like. . In addition, the dyeing treatment is not particularly limited, a liquid flow method, a jigger process, a beam process, a cold pad batch process, a pad steam process, a pad Since a pad roll process, a continuous method, etc. can be used, the dye and dyeing method used may be appropriately selected according to the type of animal fibers.

본 발명에 있어서 가수분해 케라틴으로서는, 케라틴 함유 원료 또는 상기 원료로부터 환원조건하 등에서 추출된 케라틴을 산, 알칼리, 과산화물, 효소 등을 사용하여 분해하여 얻어지는 가수분해물을 들 수 있고, 그 방법은 모두 공지되어 있다(예를 들면 일본국 공개특허 특개2005-247692호 공보, 일본국 공개특허 특개2006-124341호 공보, 일본국 공개특허 특개2008-247925호 공보, 일본국 공개특허 특개평6-116300호 공보를 참조). 이 중에서 알칼리나 과산화물을 사용한 가수분해물이 바람직하다.In the present invention, as the hydrolyzed keratin, there may be mentioned a hydrolyzate obtained by decomposing keratin-containing raw materials or keratin extracted under reducing conditions from the raw materials using acids, alkalis, peroxides, enzymes, and the like, and all methods are known. (For example, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2005-247692, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2006-124341, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2008-247925, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. Hei 6-116300 See). Among these, a hydrolyzate using alkali or peroxide is preferred.

이러한 가수분해 케라틴의 분자량은, 섬유에 대한 수착(收着), 침투성의 점에서, 겔여과분석에 의하여 측정되는 수평균분자량(數平均分子量)이 바람직하게는 10,000 이하, 더 바람직하게는 8,000 이하, 더 바람직하게는 5,000 이하, 더 바람직하게는 3,000 이하, 더 바람직하게는 2,000 이하이며, 또한 바람직하게는 130 이상, 더 바람직하게는 150 이상, 더 바람직하게는 200 이상, 더 바람직하게는 300 이상이다. 또한 바람직하게는 10,000∼130, 더 바람직하게는 8,000∼130, 더 바람직하게는 5,000∼130, 더 바람직하게는 3,000∼150, 더 바람직하게는 2,000∼200, 더 바람직하게는 2,000∼300이다.The molecular weight of such hydrolyzed keratin is, in terms of sorption to fibers and permeability, the number average molecular weight measured by gel filtration analysis is preferably 10,000 or less, more preferably 8,000 or less , More preferably 5,000 or less, more preferably 3,000 or less, more preferably 2,000 or less, also preferably 130 or more, more preferably 150 or more, more preferably 200 or more, more preferably 300 or more to be. In addition, it is preferably 10,000 to 130, more preferably 8,000 to 130, more preferably 5,000 to 130, more preferably 3,000 to 150, further preferably 2,000 to 200, and still more preferably 2,000 to 300.

알칼리나 과산화물을 사용한 가수분해에서는, 케라틴 함유 원료를 그대로 분해할 수 있다.In hydrolysis using alkali or peroxide, the keratin-containing raw material can be decomposed as it is.

알칼리 가수분해는, 예를 들면 수산화나트륨, 수산화칼륨 등의 알칼리금속 수산화물, 수산화칼슘 등의 알칼리토류금속 수산화물, 암모니아 등의 알칼리를 사용할 수 있으며, 통상 0.1∼0.8mol/L, 바람직하게는 0.2∼0.5mol/L의 농도로, 통상 20∼120℃, 바람직하게는 0.1∼72시간 케라틴 함유 원료를 처리하는 것이 바람직하다.For alkali hydrolysis, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, alkali earth metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide, and alkalis such as ammonia can be used, and usually 0.1 to 0.8 mol/L, preferably 0.2 to 0.5 It is preferable to treat the keratin-containing raw material at a concentration of mol/L, usually 20 to 120°C, preferably 0.1 to 72 hours.

또한 과산화물을 사용한 가수분해(산화 가수분해)는, 과산화수소, 과산화포름산, 과산화아세트산 등의 과산화물을 사용하여 이루어지며, 통상 1∼10%, 바람직하게는 3∼8%의 농도로, 통상 실온∼100℃, 바람직하게는 30분∼48시간 케라틴 함유 원료를 처리하는 것이 바람직하다.In addition, hydrolysis using oxidized peroxide (oxidative hydrolysis) is carried out using peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide, formic acid and acetic acid peroxide, usually at a concentration of 1 to 10%, preferably 3 to 8%, usually at room temperature to 100 It is preferable to treat the keratin-containing raw material at ℃, preferably 30 minutes to 48 hours.

또한 이러한 가수분해물은, 필요에 따라 양이온화, 실릴화, 아실화 또는 알킬 양이온화하여 가수분해 케라틴의 유도체로 할 수도 있어, 본 발명의 효과를 발휘하는 한 이러한 유도체를 사용할 수도 있다.Further, such a hydrolyzate can be used as a derivative of hydrolyzed keratin by cationization, silylation, acylation or alkyl cationization, if necessary, and these derivatives can be used as long as the effects of the present invention are exhibited.

케라틴 함유 원료로서는, 조류, 양, 말, 돼지, 알파카, 모헤어, 앙고라, 캐시미어 등의 수모(獸毛)를 들 수 있고, 이 중에서도 조류로부터 얻을 수 있는 우모(羽毛) 또는 양모가 바람직하고, 우모를 사용하는 것이 더 바람직하다. 또한 우모는, 예를 들면 닭, 메추라기, 칠면조 등의 육조(陸鳥)나 거위(goose), 콜 덕(call duck), 집오리(domestic duck), 유러피안 덕(European duck), 베이징 덕(Peking duck), 아이더 덕(eider duck) 등의 수조(水鳥)로부터 얻을 수 있는 다운(down), 페더(feather), 스몰 페더(small feather) 중의 어느 것의 우모도 사용할 수 있지만, 특히 수조의 우모가 바람직하다.Examples of keratin-containing raw materials include hairs such as algae, sheep, horses, pigs, alpaca, mohair, angora, and cashmere. Among them, wool or wool obtained from birds is preferable, and wool It is more preferable to use. Also, for example, ducks, goose, call duck, dometic duck, European duck, Peking duck, such as chicken, quail, turkey, etc. ), any of down, feather, and small feather obtained from a water tank such as an Eider duck can be used, but in particular, a wool of a tank is preferable. Do.

본 발명에 있어서 적합한 가수분해 케라틴으로서는, 양모 또는 우모로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴을 들 수 있고, 더 적합하게는 우모로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴을 들 수 있고, 더욱 적합하게는 우모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴 혹은 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 들 수 있다.Suitable hydrolyzed keratin in the present invention includes hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool or wool, more preferably hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool, and more preferably alkali hydrolyzed from wool. Degraded keratin or oxidative hydrolyzed keratin.

가수분해 케라틴의 용액으로서는, 물, 에탄올의 용해액을 들 수 있지만, 바람직하게는 수용액이다.As a solution of hydrolyzed keratin, a solution of water and ethanol may be mentioned, but it is preferably an aqueous solution.

상기 가수분해 케라틴 용액 중에는, 그 효과를 손상시키지 않는 범위에서 킬레이트제, 금속염, 세라미드, 지방산 에스테르 등의 지질성분(脂質成分), 구연산, 아스코르브산 등의 유기산, 비이온 계면활성제, 양이온 계면활성제, 양성 계면활성제, 고급 알코올류, 저급 알코올류, 동식물유, 실리콘 오일류, 천연다당류, 동식물추출물, 동식물로부터 유래하는 가수분해물 및 그 유도체, pH조정제, 방부제 등 다양한 것을 적절하게 배합할 수 있다.In the hydrolyzed keratin solution, in the range that does not impair its effect, lipid components such as chelating agents, metal salts, ceramides, fatty acid esters, citric acid, organic acids such as ascorbic acid, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, Various surfactants such as amphoteric surfactants, higher alcohols, lower alcohols, animal and vegetable oils, silicone oils, natural polysaccharides, animal and vegetable extracts, and hydrolyzates derived from animal and vegetable products, derivatives thereof, pH adjusting agents, and preservatives can be appropriately combined.

가수분해 케라틴 용액 중의 가수분해 케라틴 농도는, 동물섬유의 보호작용 및 수복작용(修復作用)을 높이는 점, 및 가수분해 케라틴의 섬유에 대한 수착량(收着量)의 증가에 따른 텍스처(texture)의 저하를 억제하는 점에서, 바람직하게는 0.01질량% 이상, 더 바람직하게는 0.03질량% 이상, 더 바람직하게는 0.05질량% 이상, 더 바람직하게는 0.1질량% 이상이고, 또한 바람직하게는 1질량% 이하, 더 바람직하게는 0.7질량% 이하, 더 바람직하게는 0.5질량% 이하이다. 또한 바람직하게는 0.01∼1질량%, 더 바람직하게는 0.03∼0.7질량%, 더 바람직하게는 0.05∼0.7질량% 이상, 더 바람직하게는 0.1∼0.5질량%이다.The concentration of hydrolyzed keratin in the hydrolyzed keratin solution increases the protective and restorative action of animal fibers, and the texture of the hydrolyzed keratin as the sorption amount of the fiber increases. From the viewpoint of suppressing the decrease of, the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.03% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, still more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and also preferably 1% by mass % Or less, more preferably 0.7% by mass or less, and still more preferably 0.5% by mass or less. Moreover, it is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 0.7% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 0.7% by mass or more, and still more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass.

가수분해 케라틴 용액에 대한 동물섬유의 침지는, 열에 의한 변성 또는 침투력의 저하에 따른 동물섬유에 대한 보호작용 및 수복작용의 저하를 억제하는 점에서, 가수분해 케라틴 용액 중에 동물섬유를 통상 30∼80℃에서 20∼60분 침지처리하는 것이 바람직하고, 40∼60℃에서 30∼60분 처리하는 것이 보다 바람직하다.Immersion of the animal fibers in the hydrolyzed keratin solution suppresses the deterioration of the protective and restoring effects on the animal fibers due to heat deterioration or reduction of the penetration force, and thus the animal fibers are usually 30 to 80 in the hydrolyzed keratin solution. It is preferable to immerse for 20 to 60 minutes at ℃, and more preferably for 30 to 60 minutes at 40 to 60°C.

가수분해 케라틴 용액에 대한 동물섬유의 침지는, 표백공정 및/또는 염색공정 전에 하는 전처리공정으로서 실시하는 것, 표백공정 및/또는 염색공정 후의 후처리공정으로서 실시하는 것 중에서 어느 것이더라도 좋고, 전처리공정과 후처리공정을 양방 실시하는 것이 보다 바람직하다. 예를 들면 표백처리에 계속하여 염색처리를 하는 경우에는, 표백공정 전과 염색공정 후의 2회, 또는 표백공정 전, 표백공정 후(염색공정 전) 및 염색공정 후의 3회 하는 것이 바람직하다.The immersion of the animal fibers in the hydrolyzed keratin solution may be performed as a pretreatment step before the bleaching step and/or dyeing step, or as a post treatment step after the bleaching step and/or dyeing step, and may be pretreated. It is more preferable to perform both a process and a post-treatment process. For example, in the case where the dyeing treatment is continued after the bleaching treatment, it is preferable to perform two times before the bleaching process and after the dyeing process, or before the bleaching process, after the bleaching process (before the dyeing process) and three times after the dyeing process.

이렇게 하여 얻어진 본 발명의 가공섬유는, 표백이나 염색을 할 때에 생기는 섬유손상이 억제되거나 수복되어 있다. 즉 본 발명의 가공섬유는, 동물섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처(예를 들면, 손으로 만졌을 때의 감촉)가 표백이나 염색에 의하여 손상되지 않고 유지되고 있고, 또한 강도 및 내광성(耐光性)이 저하되지 않고 유지되고 있다.In the thus obtained processed fiber of the present invention, fiber damage caused when bleaching or dyeing is suppressed or repaired. That is, in the processed fiber of the present invention, the unique texture of the animal fiber (e.g., hand touch) is maintained without being damaged by bleaching or dyeing, and strength and light resistance are not deteriorated. Without being maintained.

따라서 동물섬유의 표백 및/또는 염색처리에 있어서, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정을 포함하는 방법은, 표백 및/또는 염색처리에 있어서의 상기 섬유의 손상억제방법이 될 수 있다. 또한 동물섬유의 표백 및/또는 염색처리 전 혹은 후 또는 전후에, 상기 섬유를 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 공정을 포함하는 방법은, 상기 섬유의 손상을 억제하는 가공방법이 될 수 있다.Therefore, in the bleaching and/or dyeing treatment of animal fibers, a method including the step of immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution may be a method for inhibiting damage to the fibers in the bleaching and/or dyeing treatment. In addition, before or after bleaching and/or dyeing treatment of animal fibers, a method including a step of immersing the fibers in a hydrolyzed keratin solution may be a processing method for suppressing damage to the fibers.

이러한 동물섬유의 손상억제방법 및 동물섬유의 가공방법은, 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리로부터 보호하고, 상기 섬유의 텍스처 또는 내광성의 유지에 유용하다.Such a method for inhibiting damage to an animal fiber and a method for processing the animal fiber are useful for protecting the animal fiber from bleaching and/or dyeing treatment and maintaining the texture or light resistance of the fiber.

또한 본 발명에 있어서, 「텍스처」는 손으로 만졌을 때나 피부에 닿았을 때의 감촉, 착용감 등의 사람이 물건과 접촉하였을 때에 느끼는 재질감을 의미하고, 동물섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처는 「부드러움」, 「매끄러움」, 「실키함(silkiness)」, 「보드라움」, 「소프트함」, 「탄력성이 있음」, 「폭신함」 등을 의미한다.In addition, in the present invention, "texture" refers to a feeling of texture when a person touches an object, such as a feeling of touch, a feeling of wearing, or the like when touched by hand, and the unique texture of animal fibers has "softness", " It means smoothness, "silkiness", "voidness", "softness", "elasticity", and "softness".

또한 내광성은, 빛에 의한 열화(섬유의 황변(黃變)이나 퇴색(退色))에 대한 저항성을 의미한다.In addition, light resistance means resistance to light deterioration (yellowing or fading of fibers).

실시예Example

이하에 실시예를 들어 본 발명을 더 구체적으로 설명한다. 단, 본 발명은 이들 실시예에 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<평가방법><Evaluation method>

1. 염색(내광) 견뢰도 시험법(染色(耐光) 堅牢度 試驗法)1. Dyeing (light-resistant) fastness test method (染色(耐光) 堅牢度 試驗法)

JIS L 0842 제3노광법(露光法)에 준하여 섬유의 염색(내광) 견뢰도를 측정하였다. 이 시험에 의하여 얻어진 등급이 높은 쪽이 견뢰도가 더 높다는 것을 나타내고 있다.The color fastness of the fibers (light resistance) was measured according to JIS L 0842 third exposure method. The higher the grade obtained by this test indicates that the fastness is higher.

2. 섬유 손상도 시험법 : 알칼리 용해도법2. Fiber damage test method: alkali solubility method

JIS L 1081 알칼리 용해도법에 준하여 섬유의 알칼리 용해도를 측정하였다. 이 시험에 의하여 얻어진 값이 작은 쪽이 섬유의 손상이 적다는 것을 나타내고 있다.The alkali solubility of the fiber was measured according to JIS L 1081 alkali solubility method. The smaller the value obtained by this test, the less damage the fiber shows.

3. 섬유 손상도 시험법 : 착색법(메틸렌블루법)3. Fiber damage test method: coloring method (methylene blue method)

JIS L 1081 착색법(메틸렌블루법)에 준하여 섬유의 손상도를 판정하였다. 섬유의 손상이 없는 것은 담청색(light blue)으로, 손상이 있는 것은 딥블루(deep blue)로 착색되므로, 착색농도에 의하여 손상도를 판정한다.The degree of damage to the fibers was determined according to the JIS L 1081 coloring method (methylene blue method). Since the fibers without damage are light blue, and those with damage are deep blue, the degree of damage is determined by the color concentration.

4. ATR-FTIR 시험법4. ATR-FTIR test method

섬유의 ATR-FTIR 스펙트럼을, Universal ATR Sampling Accessory를 부속시킨 PerkinElmer Spectrum One FTIR spectrophotometer(퍼킨엘머(PerkinElmer, Inc.) 제품)를 사용하여 기록하였다. 적산횟수(積算回數) 16회, 분해능(分解能) 4cm-1, 4000∼400cm-1의 조건으로 실시하였다. 얻어진 스펙트럼 중 1040cm-1에서 술폰산에 귀속하는 피크가 얻어진다. 이 술폰산은 섬유에 포함되는 시스틴으로부터 유래하고, 시스틴이 과잉으로 산화됨으로써, 개열(開裂)되어 술폰산으로 변화한다. 그러므로 1040cm-1의 피크가 낮은 쪽이 술폰산의 함유량이 적다는 것을 나타내고, 표백공정에 의한 섬유의 과잉산화가 억제되고 있다는 것을 나타내고 있다.The ATR-FTIR spectrum of the fibers was recorded using a PerkinElmer Spectrum One FTIR spectrophotometer (PerkinElmer, Inc.) attached with Universal ATR Sampling Accessory. It was performed under the conditions of 16 times of integration, 4cm -1 of resolution and 4000 to 400cm -1 . A peak attributed to sulfonic acid is obtained at 1040 cm -1 in the obtained spectrum. This sulfonic acid is derived from cystine contained in the fiber, and when the cystine is excessively oxidized, it is cleaved and converted into sulfonic acid. Therefore, the lower the peak of 1040 cm -1 indicates that the content of sulfonic acid is small, and that the excess oxidation of the fiber by the bleaching step is suppressed.

5. 실의 탄성도 시험5. Elasticity test of yarn

JIS L 1095 일반 방적사 시험법에 준하여 단사(單絲)의 인장강도 및 신장율을 측정하였다.Tensile strength and elongation of the single yarn were measured according to the JIS L 1095 general spinning yarn test method.

6. 패널리스트 평가(관능평가)6. Panelist evaluation (Sensory evaluation)

검체(檢體)에 대한 패널리스트 평가를 하였다. 업무상 캐시미어 섬유를 평가할 기회가 많은 25명의 패널리스트가 검체를 임의로 만져, 손으로 만졌을 때의 감촉에 대하여 하기의 기준으로 평가하고, 그 평균값을 구하였다.Panelist evaluation of specimens was conducted. Twenty-five panelists who had many opportunities to evaluate cashmere fibers for work, touched the specimens arbitrarily, evaluated them by the following criteria for the touch when they were touched by hand, and averaged them.

평가기준Evaluation standard

5 : 매우 좋다5: Very good

4 : 좋다4: Good

3 : 약간 좋다3: slightly good

2 : 나쁘다2: Bad

1 : 매우 나쁘다1: Very bad

7. 전기영동7. Electrophoresis

SDS-PAGE 전기영동은, 프리캐스트 겔(precast gel)(아토 가부시키가이샤(ATTO CORPORATION) 제품, e-PAGEL)을 사용하여 하였다. 염색은 쿠마시 브릴리언트 블루로 하고, 탈색은 10% 아세트산으로 하였다.SDS-PAGE electrophoresis was carried out using a precast gel (Ato Corporation, e-PAGEL manufactured by ATTO CORPORATION). The dyeing was done by Coomassie Brilliant Blue, and the bleaching was made with 10% acetic acid.

8. 겔여과 크로마토그래피8. Gel filtration chromatography

겔여과용 칼럼 : 쇼와 덴코 가부시키가이샤(Showa Denko K.K.) 제품, AsahipakGF-510HQ, AsahipakGF-310HQGel filtration column: Showa Denko K.K. products, AsahipakGF-510HQ, AsahipakGF-310HQ

이동상(移動相) : CH3CN/H2O(45/55)+0.1% 트리플루오로아세트산(TFA)Mobile phase: CH 3 CN/H 2 O (45/55) + 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid (TFA)

유속 : 0.5ml/minFlow rate: 0.5ml/min

칼럼온도 : 40℃Column temperature: 40℃

UV 검출조건 : 215nmUV detection conditions: 215nm

표준시료 : 카탈라아제(Mw 230,000), 알돌라아제(Mw 158,000), 소혈청알부민(BSA)(Mw 68,000), 오브알부민(OVA)(Mw 45,000), 키모트립시노겐A(Mw 25,000), 시토크롬C(Mw 12,500), 인슐린(Mw 5,808), 바시트라신(Mw 1,400), Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly(Mw 360.3), Gly-Pro-Ala(Mw 243), Phe(Mw 165)Standard samples: catalase (Mw 230,000), aldolase (Mw 158,000), bovine serum albumin (BSA) (Mw 68,000), ovalbumin (OVA) (Mw 45,000), chymotrypsinogen A (Mw 25,000), cytochrome C (Mw 12,500), Insulin (Mw 5,808), Bacitracin (Mw 1,400), Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly (Mw 360.3), Gly-Pro-Ala (Mw 243), Phe (Mw 165)

제조예1 : 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화(비가수분해) 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 1: Preparation of solubilized (non-hydrolysis) keratin derived from wool

양모 10g에, 0.05M 트리스, 0.1M 디티오트레이톨을 포함하는 8M의 요소용액(pH9.5) 300mL를 가하고, 4℃에서 24시간 교반(攪拌)하였다. 그 후에 아황산나트륨 7.5g, 사티온산나트륨 이수화물 18g을 첨가하여, 다시 4℃에서 24시간 교반하였다. 원심분리에 의하여 미용해물(未溶解物)을 제거한 후에, 염산에 의하여 pH5.2로 조정하여, 가수분해되지 않고 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴을 제조하였다.To 10 g of wool, 300 mL of an 8M urea solution (pH9.5) containing 0.05M Tris and 0.1M dithiothreitol was added and stirred at 4°C for 24 hours. Thereafter, 7.5 g of sodium sulfite and 18 g of sodium tetrathionate were added, followed by stirring at 4° C. for 24 hours. After removing the lysate by centrifugation, it was adjusted to pH5.2 with hydrochloric acid to prepare solubilized keratin derived from wool without hydrolysis.

제조예2 : 우모로부터 유래하는 가용화(비가수분해) 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 2: Preparation of solubilized (non-hydrolysis) keratin derived from wool

양모를 우모로 변경한 것 이외에는 제조예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해되지 않고 우모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴을 제조하였다.A solubilized keratin derived from wool was prepared by treating in the same manner as in Production Example 1, except that the wool was changed to wool.

제조예3 : 양모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 3: Preparation of oxidative hydrolysis keratin derived from wool

양모 10g을 과산화수소수에 침지시키고, 3시간 산화반응을 하였다. 그 후에 암모니아를 첨가하여 가수분해하였다. 잔류한 과산화수소와 미분해물(未分解物)을 제거하여, 양모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조하였다.10 g of wool was immersed in hydrogen peroxide water, and reacted for 3 hours. Thereafter, ammonia was added to hydrolyze. Residual hydrogen peroxide and undegraded products were removed to prepare oxidative hydrolysis keratin derived from wool.

제조예4 : 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 4: Preparation of oxidative hydrolysis keratin derived from wool

양모를 우모로 변경한 것 이외에는 제조예3과 동일하게 처리하여, 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조하였다.Oxidative hydrolysis keratin derived from wool was prepared by treating in the same manner as in Production Example 3, except that the wool was changed to wool.

제조예5 : 양모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 5 Preparation of alkaline hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool

양모 10g에 1.3% 수산화나트륨 100g을 첨가하여, 120℃에서 20분 동안 반응시켰다. 실온까지 냉각한 후에 염산에 의하여 pH4까지 내리고, 하룻밤 방치하였다. 원심분리에 의하여 미분해물을 제거한 후에, 수산화나트륨에 의하여 pH5.6으로 조정하여, 양모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴을 제조하였다.100 g of 1.3% sodium hydroxide was added to 10 g of wool and reacted at 120° C. for 20 minutes. After cooling to room temperature, it was lowered to pH 4 by hydrochloric acid and left overnight. After removing the un-degraded product by centrifugation, the pH was adjusted to 5.6 with sodium hydroxide to prepare alkali hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool.

제조예6 : 우모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴의 제조Preparation Example 6: Preparation of alkaline hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool

양모를 우모로 변경한 것 이외에는 제조예5와 동일하게 처리하여, 우모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴을 제조하였다.Alkali-hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool was prepared by treating in the same manner as in Production Example 5, except that the wool was changed to wool.

제조예1∼6에서 제조한 케라틴의 SDS-PAGE에 의한 분자량 분석결과를 도1에 나타낸다. 우모 및 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴에 있어서는 분자량이 10,000 이상인 밴드가 확인되었지만, 우모 및 양모로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴에 있어서는 분자량이 10,000 이하인 밴드밖에 확인되지 않았다. 이것으로부터, 우모 및 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴에는 분자량이 10,000 이상인 케라틴 분자가 포함되어 있고, 우모 및 양모로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴에는 분자량이 10,000 이하인 케라틴 분자밖에 포함되어 있지 않다는 것을 알 수 있다.The results of molecular weight analysis by SDS-PAGE of keratin prepared in Preparation Examples 1 to 6 are shown in FIG. 1. In solubilized keratin derived from wool and wool, a band having a molecular weight of 10,000 or more was confirmed, but in hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool and wool, only a band having a molecular weight of 10,000 or less was confirmed. From this, it can be seen that the solubilized keratin derived from wool and wool contains keratin molecules having a molecular weight of 10,000 or more, and the hydrolyzed keratin derived from wool and wool contains only keratin molecules having a molecular weight of 10,000 or less.

또한 제조예3∼6에서 제조한 케라틴의 겔여과 분자량 분석에 의한 분자량 측정결과를 표1에 나타낸다. 케라틴 함유 원료의 유래 및 가수분해의 방법에 관계없이, 수평균분자량이 1000 전후인 케라틴 분자가 포함되어 있다는 것을 알 수 있다.In addition, the results of molecular weight measurement by gel filtration molecular weight analysis of keratin prepared in Preparation Examples 3 to 6 are shown in Table 1. It can be seen that, regardless of the origin of the keratin-containing raw material and the method of hydrolysis, keratin molecules having a number average molecular weight of around 1000 are included.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00001
Figure 112018031955680-pct00001

실시예1∼4, 비교예1∼2(표백 전후의 케라틴 처리)Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 (keratin treatment before and after bleaching)

(실시예1)(Example 1)

캐시미어모(cashmere hair)를, 제조예4에서 제조한 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴의 0.1% 수용액에 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비(液比) 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.1%의 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 후처리를 하였다. 충분히 수세(水洗)한 후에 건조시켜, 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모(毛, hair)를 제작하였다.Cashmere hair was immersed in a 0.1% aqueous solution of oxidatively hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool produced in Preparation Example 4 at a temperature of 40°C for 60 minutes, and pretreated. Subsequently, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20 and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, it was immersed in a 0.1% hydrolyzed keratin solution at a liquid ratio of 1:20 and a temperature of 40°C for 60 minutes, followed by post-treatment. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs treated with oxidative hydrolysis keratin derived from rain.

(실시예2)(Example 2)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조예6에서 제조한 우모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 우모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.Processed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool was replaced with the alkali hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool produced in Production Example 6, to prepare a hair treated with alkali hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool. Did.

(실시예3)(Example 3)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조예3에서 제조한 양모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 양모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.Processed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool was changed to the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool prepared in Production Example 3, to prepare a hair treated with oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool. Did.

(실시예4)(Example 4)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조예5에서 제조한 양모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 양모로부터 유래하는 알칼리 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.Processed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool was changed to the alkali hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool prepared in Production Example 5, to prepare a hair treated with alkali hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool. Did.

(비교예1)(Comparative Example 1)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조예1에서 제조한 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 양모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the wool was changed to the solubilized keratin derived from the wool prepared in Production Example 1 to prepare a hair treated with solubilized keratin derived from the wool.

(비교예2)(Comparative Example 2)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴을 제조예2에서 제조한 우모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예1과 동일하게 처리하여, 우모로부터 유래하는 가용화 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin derived from the hair was replaced with the solubilized keratin derived from the hair produced in Production Example 2, to prepare a hair treated with the solubilized keratin derived from the wool.

(결과)(result)

실시예1∼4, 비교예1∼2의 섬유손상도 시험결과 및 패널리스트 평가(손으로 만졌을 때의 감촉)의 평균값을 표2에 나타낸다. 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리하지 않은 비교예1∼2와 비교하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 실시예1∼4에서는, 표백에 의한 섬유손상을 억제하고, 또한 캐시미어 섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처의 열화를 억제할 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있다.Table 2 shows the fiber damage test results and panelist evaluation (touch when touched) of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, respectively. Compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 not treated with hydrolyzed keratin, in Examples 1 to 4 treated with hydrolyzed keratin, fiber damage due to bleaching was suppressed and deterioration of the unique texture of cashmere fibers was suppressed. You can see.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00002
Figure 112018031955680-pct00002

실시예1∼4, 비교예1∼2 및 미처리의 메틸렌블루 염색 전후의 섬유면(纖維綿) 사진을 도2에 나타낸다. 섬유의 손상이 없는 것은 담청색으로, 손상이 있는 것은 딥블루로 착색되므로, 착색농도에 의하여 섬유손상도를 평가할 수 있다. 도2에 있어서, 비교예1∼2는 뚜렷하게 미처리보다도 진하게 착색되어 있다. 실시예1∼4는 비교예1∼2보다도 연하게 착색되어 있고, 특히 실시예1∼2는 미처리와 동등한 정도로 착색되어 있다. 이것으로부터 실시예1∼4는 메틸렌블루 염색법에 의한 평가에서도, 알칼리 용해도법과 마찬가지로 표백에 의한 섬유손상을 억제하고 있다는 것을 알 수 있다.Fig. 2 shows photographs of fibers 1 and 4 before and after Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and untreated methylene blue dyeing. Since there is no damage to the fiber in light blue color, and the damage is in deep blue, it is possible to evaluate the fiber damage by the color concentration. In Fig. 2, Comparative Examples 1-2 are markedly darker than untreated. Examples 1 to 4 are lighter colored than Comparative Examples 1 to 2, and in particular, Examples 1 to 2 are colored to the same extent as untreated. From this, it can be seen that Examples 1 to 4 also inhibit fiber damage due to bleaching, as in the alkali solubility method, in the evaluation by the methylene blue dyeing method.

섬유손상도 및 손으로 만졌을 때의 감촉을 평가한 결과로부터, 표백에 의한 섬유손상을 억제하는 효과가 높은 케라틴은, 평균분자량이 10,000 이하인 가수분해 케라틴이라는 것을 알 수 있다.From the results of evaluating the degree of fiber damage and the feel when touched by hand, it can be seen that keratin having a high effect of suppressing fiber damage due to bleaching is hydrolyzed keratin having an average molecular weight of 10,000 or less.

실시예5∼7 및 비교예3(표백 전의 케라틴 처리)Examples 5-7 and Comparative Example 3 (keratin treatment before bleaching)

(실시예5)(Example 5)

실시예1에서 사용한 것과는 원산지가 다른 캐시미어모를, 0.5%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 30분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.Cashmere hairs having different origins from those used in Example 1 were immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.5% wool for 30 minutes at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 40° C. and pretreated. Thereafter, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예6)(Example 6)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 60℃에서 침지시킨 것 이외에는 실시예5와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same treatment as in Example 5 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin solution originating from the wool was immersed at 60°C to prepare a hair treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예7)(Example 7)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 80℃에서 침지시킨 것 이외에는 실시예5와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same treatment as in Example 5 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin solution derived from the wool was immersed at 80°C to prepare a hair treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(비교예3)(Comparative Example 3)

실시예5에서 사용한 것과 동일한 캐시미어모를, 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 케라틴으로 처리하지 않은 모를 제작하였다.The same cashmere hair as that used in Example 5 was immersed in a solution to which 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was added at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After washing with water sufficiently, the hair was not treated with keratin to prepare a hair.

(결과)(result)

1) 미처리 모, 실시예5∼7 및 비교예3의 섬유손상도 시험결과를 표3에 나타낸다. 비교예3과 비교하여 실시예5∼7에서는, 섬유손상도가 저하되어 있어, 표백에 의한 섬유손상이 억제되어 있다는 것을 알 수 있다.1) Table 3 shows the fiber damage test results of the untreated mothers and Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Example 3. As compared with Comparative Example 3, it was found that in Examples 5 to 7, the fiber damage degree was lowered, and fiber damage due to bleaching was suppressed.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00003
Figure 112018031955680-pct00003

2) 미처리 모, 실시예5∼7 및 비교예3의 ATR-FTIR 스펙트럼을 도3에 나타낸다. 미처리 모에서는 1040cm-1에서 술폰산에 귀속하는 피크를 볼 수 없지만, 실시예5∼7 및 비교예3에서는 1040cm-1에서 술폰산에 귀속하는 피크를 볼 수 있기 때문에, 이는 표백에 의한 과잉산화가 일어나고 있음을 시사한다. 그러나 실시예5∼7은, 비교예3과 비교하여 1040cm-1의 피크강도가 약하기 때문에, 이는 표백에 의한 과잉산화가 억제되고 있음을 시사한다.2) ATR-FTIR spectra of untreated parent, Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Example 3 are shown in FIG. 3. Since all the untreated, but can see the peak attributable to the acid from 1040cm -1, for example, it is carried out 5 to 7 and Comparative Example 3, can view the peak attributable to the acid from 1040cm -1, which is taking place over-oxidation by the bleach Suggests that However, Examples 5 to 7 have a weak peak intensity of 1040 cm -1 compared to Comparative Example 3, which suggests that excessive oxidation by bleaching is suppressed.

실시예8(표백 후의 케라틴 처리)Example 8 (Keratin treatment after bleaching)

(실시예8)(Example 8)

표백 캐시미어모를, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켰다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The bleached cashmere hair was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool for 60 minutes at a liquid ratio of 1:20 and a temperature of 40°C. After washing with water sufficiently, the hair treated with hydrolyzed keratin was produced.

(결과)(result)

실시예8 및 표백 캐시미어모의 섬유손상도 및 내광견뢰도를 표4에 나타낸다. 실시예8에서는 표백 캐시미어모와 비교하여 섬유손상도가 저하되어 있고, 이는 섬유손상이 회복되어 있음을 시사한다. 또한 내광견뢰도가 높아져 있고, 이는 내광성이 높아져 있음을 시사한다.Table 8 shows the fiber damage and light fastness of Example 8 and bleached cashmere wool. In Example 8, the fiber damage level was lower than that of the bleached cashmere wool, which suggests that the fiber damage was recovered. In addition, the light fastness is increased, which suggests that the light fastness is increased.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00004
Figure 112018031955680-pct00004

실시예9∼10(표백·염색 후의 케라틴 처리)Examples 9 to 10 (keratin treatment after bleaching and dyeing)

(실시예9)(Example 9)

표백·염색 캐시미어모를, 0.5%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 60℃에서 20분 동안 침지시켰다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The bleached and dyed cashmere hair was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.5% wool for 20 minutes at a liquid ratio of 1:20 and a temperature of 60°C. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예10)(Example 10)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 80℃에서 침지시킨 것 이외에는 실시예7과 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same treatment as in Example 7 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin solution derived from the wool was immersed at 80°C to prepare a hair treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(결과)(result)

실시예9, 10 및 표백·염색 캐시미어모의 내광견뢰도를 표5에 나타낸다. 실시예9 및 10은 내광견뢰도가 높아져 있다.Tables 9 and 10 show the light fastness properties of bleached and dyed cashmere wool. Examples 9 and 10 have high light fastness.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00005
Figure 112018031955680-pct00005

실시예11∼12(표백 전후의 케라틴 처리)Examples 11-12 (keratin treatment before and after bleaching)

(실시예11)(Example 11)

실시예5에서 사용한 것과 동일한 캐시미어모를, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 후처리를 하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 전·후처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same cashmere hair as used in Example 5 was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 40° C. for 60 minutes, and pretreated. Thereafter, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, the solution was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 40° C. for 60 minutes, followed by post-treatment. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs pre- and post-treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예12)(Example 12)

우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 30℃에서 침지시킨 것 이외에는 실시예9와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same treatment as in Example 9 was carried out except that the oxidative hydrolyzed keratin solution derived from the wool was immersed at 30°C to prepare a hair treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(결과)(result)

1) 미처리 모, 실시예11∼12 및 비교예3의 섬유손상도 시험결과 및 패널리스트 평가의 평균값을 표6에 나타낸다. 비교예3과 비교하여 실시예11∼12에서는, 섬유손상도가 저하되어 있다. 또한 내광견뢰도도 높아져 있다. 패널리스트에 의한 손으로 만졌을 때의 감촉에 대한 평가에서는, 실시예11 및 12에서는 그 감촉의 저하가 억제되고 있다는 것을 알 수 있다. 그러므로 섬유가 갖는 독특한 텍스처와 내광성을 유지하면서, 우수한 색상의 동물섬유 방적사를 얻을 수 있었다.1) Table 6 shows the results of the fiber damage test and panelist evaluation of the untreated mothers, Examples 11 to 12 and Comparative Example 3. In Examples 11 to 12, compared with Comparative Example 3, the degree of fiber damage was lowered. In addition, light fastness is also increasing. In the evaluation of the touch when touched by the panelist, it can be seen that in Examples 11 and 12, the decrease in the touch was suppressed. Therefore, while maintaining the unique texture and light resistance of the fibers, it was possible to obtain an excellent quality animal fiber spun yarn.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00006
Figure 112018031955680-pct00006

2) 미처리 모, 실시예11∼12 및 비교예3의 ATR-FTIR 스펙트럼을 도4에 나타낸다. 미처리 모에서는 1040cm-1에서 술폰산에 귀속하는 피크를 볼 수 없지만, 실시예11∼12 및 비교예3에서는 1040cm-1에서 술폰산에 귀속하는 피크를 볼 수 있기 때문에, 이는 표백에 의한 과잉산화가 일어나고 있음을 시사한다. 그러나 실시예11∼12는, 비교예3과 비교하여 1040cm-1의 피크강도가 약하기 때문에, 이는 표백에 의한 과잉산화가 억제되고 있음을 시사한다.2) The untreated parent, the ATR-FTIR spectra of Examples 11 to 12 and Comparative Example 3 are shown in Fig. 4. Peaks attributed to sulfonic acid cannot be seen at 1040 cm -1 in untreated hair, but peaks attributed to sulfonic acid at 1040 cm -1 can be seen in Examples 11 to 12 and Comparative Example 3, which causes overoxidation by bleaching. Suggests that However, Examples 11 to 12 have a weak peak intensity of 1040 cm -1 compared to Comparative Example 3, which suggests that excessive oxidation by bleaching is suppressed.

실시예13∼14(표백·염색 전후의 케라틴 처리)Examples 13-14 (keratin treatment before and after bleaching and dyeing)

(실시예13)(Example 13)

실시예5에서 사용한 것과 동일한 캐시미어모를, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 80℃에서 30분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.03%의 산성염료를 사용하여 염색하였다. 표백·염색 후의 캐시미어모를, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 80℃에서 30분 동안 침지시켜, 후처리를 하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 전·후처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same cashmere hair as used in Example 5 was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 80°C for 30 minutes, and pretreated. Thereafter, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, it was dyed using 0.03% acid dye. The cashmere hair after bleaching and dyeing was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 80°C for 30 minutes, followed by post-treatment. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs pre- and post-treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예14)(Example 14)

0.5%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시킨 것 이외에는 실시예13과 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same treatment as in Example 13 was carried out except that the solution was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.5% of wool to prepare a hair treated with hydrolysis keratin.

(비교예4)(Comparative Example 4)

실시예5에서 사용한 것과 동일한 캐시미어모를, 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.03%의 산성염료를 사용하여 염색하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 케라틴으로 처리하지 않은 모를 제작하였다.The same cashmere hair as that used in Example 5 was immersed in a solution to which 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was added at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, it was dyed using 0.03% acid dye. After washing with water sufficiently, the hair was not treated with keratin to prepare a hair.

(결과)(result)

실시예13, 14 및 비교예4의 섬유손상도 및 내광견뢰도를 표7에 나타낸다. 비교예4와 비교하여 실시예13 및 14는, 섬유손상도가 저하되어 있고, 이는 섬유손상이 억제되고 있음을 시사한다. 또한 내광견뢰도가 높아져 있고, 이는 내광성이 높아져 있음을 시사한다.Table 7 shows the fiber damage and light fastness of Examples 13, 14 and Comparative Example 4. In comparison with Comparative Example 4, Examples 13 and 14 showed a decrease in fiber damage, which suggests that fiber damage is suppressed. In addition, the light fastness is increased, which suggests that the light fastness is increased.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00007
Figure 112018031955680-pct00007

실시예15, 비교예5(표백 전후의 케라틴 처리<방적사>)Example 15, Comparative Example 5 (Keratin treatment before and after bleaching <spun yarn>)

(실시예15)(Example 15)

방적 후의 울사(wool yarn)를, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.1%의 우모로부터 유래하는 산화 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 후처리를 하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 울 방적사를 제작하였다.The wool yarn after spinning was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 40° C. for 60 minutes, and pretreated. Thereafter, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, the solution was immersed in an oxidative hydrolysis keratin solution derived from 0.1% of wool at a liquid ratio of 1:20 at a temperature of 40° C. for 60 minutes, followed by post-treatment. After washing with water sufficiently, a wool spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin was produced.

(비교예5)(Comparative Example 5)

방적 후의 울사를, 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 표백한 울 방적사를 제작하였다.After spinning, the wool yarn was immersed in a solution to which 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was added at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After sufficiently washed and dried, a bleached wool spun yarn was produced.

(결과)(result)

원사(原絲), 실시예15 및 비교예5의 실의 강도(强度) 및 신도(伸度)를 표8에 나타낸다. 비교예5와 비교하여 실시예15에서는, 표백 전의 원사에 가까운 값을 나타내는 것으로부터, 표백에 의한 실의 물성변화가 적다는 것을 알 수 있다.Table 8 shows the strength and elongation of yarns of yarns, Example 15 and Comparative Example 5. Compared with Comparative Example 5, in Example 15, since the value close to the yarn before bleaching was found, it was found that there was little change in physical properties of the yarn due to bleaching.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00008
Figure 112018031955680-pct00008

실시예16∼20, 비교예6∼10(표백 전후의 케라틴 처리<방적사>)Examples 16-20 and Comparative Examples 6-10 (keratin treatment before and after bleaching <spun yarn>)

(실시예16)(Example 16)

울사를 캐시미어사로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예15와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 캐시미어 방적사를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 15 was carried out except that the wool yarn was changed to cashmere yarn, thereby producing a cashmere spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(실시예17)(Example 17)

울사를 실크사로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예15와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 실크 방적사를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 15 was performed except that the wool yarn was changed to a silk yarn, and a silk spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin was produced.

(실시예18)(Example 18)

울사를 알파카사로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예15와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 알파카 방적사를 제작하였다.An alpaca spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin was produced in the same manner as in Example 15, except that the wool yarn was changed to alpacasa.

(실시예19)(Example 19)

울사를 모헤어 80%, 울 20%의 혼합사로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예15와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 혼합 방적사를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 15 was carried out except that the wool yarn was changed to a 80% wool, 20% wool blended yarn, and a mixed spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin was produced.

(실시예20)(Example 20)

울사를 앙고라사로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예15와 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 앙고라 방적사를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 15 was performed except that the wool yarn was changed to Angora yarn, thereby producing an Angora spun yarn treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(비교예6∼10)(Comparative Examples 6 to 10)

실시예16∼20에서 사용한 것과 동일한 수모사(獸毛絲)를, 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 케라틴으로 처리하지 않은 방적사를 제작하였다.The same woolen yarn used in Examples 16 to 20 was immersed in a solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After washing with water sufficiently, a spun yarn not treated with keratin was produced.

(결과)(result)

각 동물모의 원사, 실시예16∼20 및 비교예6∼10의 실의 강도 및 신도를 표9에 나타낸다. 표백함으로써 실의 강도 및 신도가 저하되는 경향이 있다. 케라틴으로 처리함으로써 실의 강도 및 신도의 저하를 억제한다는 것을 알 수 있다.Table 9 shows the strength and elongation of yarns of each animal hair, Examples 16 to 20, and Comparative Examples 6 to 10. Bleaching tends to lower the strength and elongation of the yarn. It can be seen that treatment with keratin suppresses a decrease in yarn strength and elongation.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00009
Figure 112018031955680-pct00009

(실시예21)(Example 21)

캐시미어모를, 시판되는 가수분해 케라틴(평균분자량 1,000)의 0.1% 수용액에 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 전처리를 하였다. 그 후에 35% 과산화수소수 20cc/L를 첨가한 용액에 액비 1:20으로 침지시키고, 60℃에서 1시간 표백하였다. 표백한 후에, 0.1%의 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 액비 1:20, 온도 40℃에서 60분 동안 침지시켜, 후처리를 하였다. 충분히 수세한 후에 건조시켜, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.Cashmere hair was pretreated by immersion in a commercially available 0.1% aqueous solution of hydrolyzed keratin (average molecular weight 1,000) at a temperature of 40°C for 60 minutes. Thereafter, the solution added with 20 cc/L of 35% hydrogen peroxide was immersed at a liquid ratio of 1:20, and bleached at 60°C for 1 hour. After bleaching, it was immersed in a 0.1% hydrolyzed keratin solution at a liquid ratio of 1:20 and a temperature of 40°C for 60 minutes, followed by post-treatment. After sufficiently washed with water, it was dried to prepare hairs treated with hydrolyzed keratin.

(비교예11)(Comparative Example 11)

가수분해 케라틴을 시판되는 가수분해 콜라겐(평균분자량 1,000)으로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예21과 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 콜라겐으로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 21 was carried out except that the hydrolyzed keratin was changed to a commercially available hydrolyzed collagen (average molecular weight of 1,000) to prepare a mother treated with hydrolyzed collagen.

(비교예12)(Comparative Example 12)

가수분해 케라틴을 시판되는 가수분해 실크(평균분자량 1,000)로 변경한 것 이외에는 실시예21과 동일하게 처리하여, 가수분해 실크로 처리한 모를 제작하였다.The same procedure as in Example 21 was carried out except that the hydrolyzed keratin was changed to a commercially available hydrolyzed silk (average molecular weight of 1,000), to prepare hairs treated with hydrolyzed silk.

(결과)(result)

실시예21 및 비교예11∼12의 섬유손상도 시험결과(알칼리 용해도법) 및 내광견뢰도를 표10에 나타낸다. 가수분해 콜라겐, 가수분해 실크로 처리한 비교예11∼12와 비교하여, 가수분해 케라틴으로 처리한 실시예21에서는, 섬유손상도가 가장 낮고 또한 내광견뢰도는 가장 높은 값을 나타내고 있다.Table 21 shows the fiber damage test results (alkali solubility method) and light fastness of Example 21 and Comparative Examples 11 to 12. Compared to Comparative Examples 11 to 12 treated with hydrolyzed collagen and hydrolyzed silk, Example 21 treated with hydrolyzed keratin showed the lowest fiber damage and the highest light fastness.

Figure 112018031955680-pct00010
Figure 112018031955680-pct00010

실시예21 및 비교예11∼12의 메틸렌블루 염색 전후의 섬유면 사진을 도5에 나타낸다. 섬유의 손상이 없는 것은 담청색으로, 손상이 있는 것은 딥블루로 착색되므로, 착색농도에 의하여 섬유손상도를 평가할 수 있다. 도5에 있어서, 비교예11∼12는 뚜렷하게 미처리보다도 진하게 착색되어 있다. 실시예21은 비교예11∼12보다도 연하게 착색되어 있다. 이것으로부터 실시예21은, 메틸렌블루 염색법에 의한 평가에서도, 알칼리 용해도법과 마찬가지로 표백에 의한 섬유손상을 억제하고 있다는 것을 알 수 있다. 그러므로 가수분해 단백질 중에서 가수분해 케라틴이 섬유손상억제에 효과적이라는 것을 알 수 있다.Fig. 5 shows photographs of the fiber surface before and after dyeing methylene blue of Examples 21 and Comparative Examples 11 to 12. Since there is no damage to the fiber in light blue color, and the damage is in deep blue, it is possible to evaluate the fiber damage by the color concentration. In Fig. 5, Comparative Examples 11 to 12 are markedly darker than untreated. Example 21 is lighter colored than Comparative Examples 11 to 12. From this, it can be seen that, in the evaluation by the methylene blue dyeing method, Example 21 suppresses fiber damage due to bleaching as in the alkali solubility method. Therefore, it can be seen that among the hydrolyzed proteins, hydrolyzed keratin is effective in suppressing fiber damage.

Claims (11)

동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하여 가공섬유를 제조하는 방법에 있어서,
상기 동물섬유를, 수평균분자량(數平均分子量)이 150∼3,000인 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지(浸漬)시키는 침지공정을 포함하고,
상기 침지공정은, 표백 및/또는 염색공정의 전 및 후에 이루어지며,
상기 동물섬유는, 양모(羊毛), 캐시미어(cashmere), 모헤어(mohair), 낙타모(camel hair), 라마(llama), 알파카(alpaca), 비큐나(vicuna), 앙고라(angora), 밍크(mink) 및 실크(silk)로 이루어지는 군(群) 중에서 선택되는 1종 또는 2종 이상인
가공섬유의 제조방법.
In the method of manufacturing processed fibers by bleaching and / or dyeing animal fibers,
And immersing the animal fiber in a hydrolysis keratin solution having a number average molecular weight of 150 to 3,000.
The immersion process is performed before and after the bleaching and/or dyeing process ,
The animal fibers are wool, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, llama, alpaca, vicuna, angora, mink ( mink) and one or more selected from the group consisting of silk
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
제1항에 있어서,
상기 침지공정에서, 상기 가수분해 케라틴 용액은 0.01∼1질량% 농도의 가수분해 케라틴 수용액인
가공섬유의 제조방법.
According to claim 1,
In the immersion step, the hydrolyzed keratin solution is an aqueous hydrolyzed keratin solution having a concentration of 0.01 to 1% by mass.
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
삭제delete 제1항에 있어서,
상기 가수분해 케라틴이, 우모(羽毛)로부터 유래하는 가수분해 케라틴인
가공섬유의 제조방법.
According to claim 1,
The hydrolyzed keratin is hydrolyzed keratin derived from feathers.
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
제1항에 있어서,
상기 가수분해 케라틴이, 수평균분자량 300∼2,000의 가수분해 케라틴인
가공섬유의 제조방법.
According to claim 1,
The hydrolyzed keratin is a hydrolyzed keratin having a number average molecular weight of 300 to 2,000.
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
삭제delete 제1항, 제2항, 제4항 또는 제5항 중의 어느 하나의 항에 있어서,
상기 침지공정에서 처리되는 동물섬유가, 포(布, fabric)가 되기 전의 모 또는 원사(原絲)인
가공섬유의 제조방법.
The method of any one of claims 1, 2, 4 or 5 ,
The animal fibers processed in the immersion process are wool or yarn before becoming fabric.
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
양모, 캐시미어, 모헤어, 낙타모, 라마, 알파카, 비큐나, 앙고라, 밍크 및 실크로 이루어지는 군 중에서 선택되는 1종 또는 2종 이상의 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하기 전 및 후에, 수평균분자량이 150∼3,000인 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 침지공정을 포함하는
동물섬유의 손상억제방법.
Number average molecular weight before and after bleaching and/or dyeing one or two or more animal fibers selected from the group consisting of wool, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, llama, alpaca, vicuna, angora, mink and silk Including the immersion process to immerse in the 150-3,000 hydrolysis keratin solution
Method for inhibiting damage to animal fibers.
양모, 캐시미어, 모헤어, 낙타모, 라마, 알파카, 비큐나, 앙고라, 밍크 및 실크로 이루어지는 군 중에서 선택되는 1종 또는 2종 이상의 동물섬유를 표백 및/또는 염색처리하기 전 및 후에, 수평균분자량이 150∼3,000인 가수분해 케라틴 용액에 침지시키는 침지공정을 포함하는
동물섬유의 가공방법.
Number average molecular weight before and after bleaching and/or dyeing one or two or more animal fibers selected from the group consisting of wool, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, llama, alpaca, vicuna, angora, mink and silk Including the immersion process to immerse in the 150-3,000 hydrolysis keratin solution
Animal fiber processing method.
제1항, 제2항, 제4항 또는 제5항 중의 어느 하나의 방법에 의하여 제조된 가공섬유.
Processed fiber produced by any one of claims 1, 2, 4 or 5 .
제1항, 제2항, 제4항 또는 제5항 중의 어느 하나의 항에 있어서,
상기 침지공정에 의하여, 표백 및/또는 염색처리를 할 때에 생기는 동물섬유의 손상이 억제되는
가공섬유의 제조방법.
The method of any one of claims 1, 2, 4 or 5 ,
By the immersion process, damage to animal fibers caused by bleaching and/or dyeing treatment is suppressed.
Method for manufacturing processed fibers.
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