KR101756776B1 - manufacturing method for clothing leather having new pattern and clothing leather manufactured by the method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a method for realizing a new pattern on a very thin cloth of 0.8-1.2 mm in thickness. Specifically, oil and wax are moved by using fluidity and physical external pressure of oil and wax in leather The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a leather for clothes, and a leather for clothes produced by the method.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention [0001] The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a leather for clothing,

The present invention relates to a method for realizing a new pattern on a thin cloth leather of 0.8 to 1.2 mm thickness, and more specifically, by using oil and wax in leather and physical external pressure, oil and wax And a leather for clothes produced by the method.

In consideration of the various tastes of consumers, the leather industry manufactures a new patterned leather by applying various surface techniques such as printing, embossing, and embossing in order to impart a surface effect by a coloring effect.

Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2006-0081398, for example, discloses a technique of forming free-spiraling and irregular thin solid lines on the surface of leather to form a pattern of monochromatic or multi-colored patterns, So that a pattern of another new pattern can be produced. Thus, it is required to provide a new leather having a new pattern.

On the other hand, it has been applied to leather products such as shoes which have been formed in the "Crazy Horse" pattern in the industry. Here, Crazy Horse is a term derived from the fact that various oils and waxes are artificially forced into tanned wet blue to induce irregular surface tactility and surface color due to fluidity of oil and wax. It is expressed in the sense of "footprint of crazy horse".

At present, thicker leather (over 1.8mm), these crazy hose-type leather have been commercialized for a long time, but they have not been developed in thin leather (less than 1.2mm) used for clothing. This is because the reaction sites are relatively small and there is a limit in combining a large amount of oil and wax.

Specifically, when the oil and wax are to be injected in a crusher state, it is necessary to use a roll coat. In the case of a thin cruster, there is a problem in the wax injection by the roll coat due to the reverse flow phenomenon in the reverse roll during the reverse coating.

Therefore, in the present invention, the maximum amount of oil and wax are injected into the leather which can be used as a very thin leather for clothing, and a new pattern called crazy hose is formed. Thus, the leather can be used not only as a warm- We want to provide material that can satisfy fashion needs.

Korean Patent Publication No. 2006-0081398

Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention have found that, in order to absorb the maximum amount of oil and wax in a thin leather having a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 mm, a roll coater equipped with a tip type oil and a wax It is possible to realize a crazy hole pattern by injecting a large amount of wax in the leather by solving the backflow phenomenon of the leather, thereby devising the present invention.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to (i) a process for increasing flexibility by coating a leather raw material having a thickness of 0.8-1.2 mm, which has undergone a tannin process and a dyeing process, with soybean oil; (ii) a drying step of putting the husked leather hides into a steamed drying chamber and drying the husks; (Iii) coating the dried leather hides with carnauba wax using a roll coater; (iv) an ironing step of ironing the painted leather hides; And (v) a step of milling the iron skin treated with the iron so as to form a pattern by rotating it in a milling machine. The present invention also provides a method for manufacturing leather-like clothes using the oil and wax.

The present invention also relates to a novel pattern prepared by the above-described method using an oil and wax having a tensile breaking load of 20 to 30 kg / 1.27 cm, an elongation percentage of 40 to 60%, a heat load of 3 to 5 kg and a flexibility of 5 to 7 mm And to provide an implemented leather for clothes.

In order to solve the problems of the present invention as described above, the present invention provides a process for producing a leather-like material, comprising the steps of: (i) coating a soybean oil with a leather raw material having a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 mm through a tannin process and a dyeing process to increase flexibility; (Ii) a drying step of putting the leather hides which have been subjected to the branching treatment into a drying chamber equipped with steam and drying the dried hides, (iii) a step of coating the dried leather hides with carnauba wax using a roll coater; (iv) an ironing step of ironing the painted leather hides; (V) a milling step of forming a pattern by rotating the dried leather hides into a milling machine and rotating the knitted fabric.

The present invention also relates to a novel pattern prepared by the above-described method using an oil and wax having a tensile breaking load of 20 to 30 kg / 1.27 cm, an elongation percentage of 40 to 60%, a heat load of 3 to 5 kg and a flexibility of 5 to 7 mm The present invention provides an implemented leather for clothing.

The clothing leather embodying the new pattern according to the present invention can be provided as a high-quality high-fashion type product, and it is anticipated that it will bring about the revitalization of the domestic leather market for leather, which is gradually losing its competitiveness. It is anticipated that the company will secure a source of technology equivalent to advanced countries in leather. The developed product can be utilized not only for clothing but also as a material for household goods such as shoes, handbags and bags.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing a method of manufacturing a new patterned leather for clothes using oil and wax according to the present invention. FIG.
Fig. 2 is a photograph of a leather for clothing in which a new pattern (crazy horses pattern) manufactured according to Example 1 is implemented.
Fig. 3 is a photograph of the leather for clothing produced in Comparative Example 1. Fig.
Fig. 4 is a photograph of the leather for clothing produced in Comparative Example 2. Fig.
Fig. 5 is a photograph of the leather for clothing produced in Comparative Example 3. Fig.
6 is a photograph of the leather for clothing produced in Comparative Example 4. Fig.
7 is a photograph of the leather for clothing produced in Comparative Example 5. Fig.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail as an embodiment.

The present invention performs the following steps (i) to (v) in order to realize a new pattern of the crack pattern shown in FIG. 2 on a leather hull having a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 mm which has been subjected to a tannin process and a dyeing process. At this time, the tannin process and the dyeing process can be performed by a general leather-working process.

In the manufacturing method of the present invention, a specific type of oil and wax are used in order to increase the bonding force of the oil in the tanning process, and reverse flow phenomenon of the fabric is prevented by using a reverse type roll coater with a tip in the coating process, The oil and wax are absorbed in the leather to ensure the fluidity of the oil and the wax, and when the physical external pressure is applied to the leather, a thin cloth leather of a crazy hose type whose color changes according to the change of the external environment can be realized .

Specifically, the step (i) is a branching process in which soybean oil is coated on a leather hull having a thickness of 0.8-1.2 mm which has undergone a tannin process and a dyeing process to increase flexibility.

In order to realize the crack pattern shown in Fig. 2 in a very thin leather hull having a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 mm, a large amount of oil and wax must be absorbed so that the fluidity of oil and wax when various physical external pressures are applied, A pattern can be implemented.

Therefore, the soybean oil of the step (i) used in the present invention is a solution prepared by mixing water, carnauba wax, sulphonation soybean oil prepared by using soybean oil having an iodine number of 100 or more and an emulsifier .

Specifically, the soybean oil in step (i) comprises 30 to 50% by weight of a sulfonated soybean oil, 30 to 50% by weight of water, 10 to 30% by weight of carnauba wax, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of an emulsifier It is preferable to use a solution.

In one embodiment, the preparation of the sulfonated soybean oil is as follows. The reactor charged with 300 g of soybean oil having an iodine value (IV) of 100 or more is maintained at 25 ° C. and 130 rpm. To this, 97% sulfuric acid (H ₂ SO ₄ ) is added dropwise over 3 hours. Next, 50 g of 5% sodium chloride (NaCl) is added and the water is separated by water. After separating the layers, the water in the lower layer is removed and 30% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is added to the oil layer to adjust the pH to 4-6. If the pH is less than 4, the leather may be damaged by the acid when used. If the pH is more than 6, the stabilization is limited due to excessive use of the neutralizing agent.

The sulfonated soybean oil oil thus prepared A degree of sulfuric acid of 6.0, and a light fastness of class 4.

Next, the step (ii) is preferably a drying step in which the raw hides of the leather-treated hides are placed in a steam-equipped drying chamber and dried, preferably at 70 to 80 ° C for 30 to 60 minutes. When the drying temperature is lower than 70 ° C, the drying speed is lowered and the productivity is limited. When the drying temperature is higher than 80 ° C, the collagen constituting the leather is damaged and the leather hardens or the physical strength becomes weak. There is a limit in achieving complete drying, and there is a limit in that the tactile property and physical properties are weakened due to drying in the case of exceeding 60 minutes, so it is preferable to carry out within the above range.

Next, the step (iii) is a coating step of applying a carnauba wax using a roll coater to the leather hides dried in the step (ii).

The roll coater used in the coating process may be a TOPSTARs manufactured by GEMATA, which is composed of two rolls and a tip, and the two rolls are rotated by reverse rolling, The wax is injected into the leather hides. Rolling and tip in the reverse direction can absorb a large amount of oil and wax on the leather hides by solving backflow of leather hides.

In this case, the rotation speed for rolling is preferably 15 to 20 rpm and the distance between the rolls is preferably 0.8 to 1.2 mm, in order to evenly spray the carnauba wax and absorb moisture to a large amount on the leather hides. Preferably, such a coating process is repeated five to eight times.

The carnauba wax is preferably a carnauba wax emulsified with a KOH solution, NaOH solution or a mixed solution thereof.

It is preferable that the soybean oil and the carnauba wax are adsorbed to the leather raw material which has been subjected to the step (i), the step (ii), and the step (iii) in an amount of 10 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the raw hides. If the adsorption amount is less than 10 wt%, the moisture absorption amount of wax and oil is small and crack pattern as shown in Fig. 2 is not realized. When the adsorption amount is less than 15 wt%, the leather is heavy.

Next, the step (iv) is an ironing process of ironing the painted leather hides, which is performed in order to impart heat and pressure to the leather to reduce surface gloss.

The step (v) which is finally performed is a method of applying a physical external pressure to embody a crazy hull pattern on a rough leather hull until the step (iv), and is a milling process for forming a pattern by rotating a leather hull using a milling machine.

Preferably, the milling is carried out at a temperature of 30 to 50 DEG C at a rotational speed of 14 to 16 rpm for 20 to 40 minutes. More preferably at 40 占 폚 for 30 minutes.

When the temperature is lower than 30 ° C, there is a limit to increase flexibility. When the temperature is higher than 50 ° C, static electricity is excessively generated due to evaporation of water. When the rotation speed is lower than 14rpm, There is a limit that the leather is severely entangled with each other and physical properties are deteriorated. In the case of less than 20 minutes, the milling effect is lowered, and when it exceeds 40 minutes, scratches may be formed on the leather surface. It is good to do.

As described above, the leather for clothing, which has been subjected to the above steps (i) to (v), has irregular surface tactile sensation and color irregularities while cracks are formed in various directions as shown in Fig. 2, and tensile breaking load is 20 to 30 kg / Is 40 to 60%, the tensile load is 3 to 5 kg, and the flexibility is 5 to 7 mm. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a leather material for clothes.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Example  One

A mixed solution consisting of 49.0% by weight of water, 10% by weight of carnauba wax, 40% by weight of sulfonated soybean oil of pH 5, and 1.0% by weight of emulsifier was applied to a 0.8 mm thick leather hull which had undergone tannin processing and dyeing process The leather hides obtained were dried in a drying oven at a temperature of 70 ° C for 30 hours, and carnauba wax emulsified with a KOH solution using a roll coater was applied to leather hides. This painting treatment was repeated five times and then ironed to obtain a leather hides on which the surface was smoothly formed. This was milled for 30 minutes at a rotation speed of 14 rpm at a temperature of 40 ° C in a milling machine to produce a leather for clothing in which the pattern shown in FIG. 2 was implemented.

The sulphonated soybean oil was prepared by adding 300 g of soybean oil having an iodine number (IV) of 100 or more to the reactor, and maintaining 97% sulfuric acid (H ₂ SO ₄ ) in the reactor at a temperature of 25 ° C and a rotation speed of 130 rpm for 3 hours 50 g of 5% sodium chloride (NaCl) was added thereto, followed by oil-water separation. The water in the lower layer was removed and 30% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) was added to the oil layer to prepare a pH of 5 Respectively.

Comparative Example  One

A leather for clothing was manufactured through a conventional method for producing leather for clothing, in which a leather material having a thickness of 0.8 mm was coated with a coating agent containing a binder and a pigment in a coating process using a spray coater. Fig. 3 shows the appearance of the leather of Comparative Example 1, and it can be confirmed that the crazy hose pattern could not be realized.

Comparative Example  2

A leather for clothes was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the wax used in Example 1 was replaced by paraffin wax instead of carnauba wax. Fig. 4 shows the appearance of the leather of Comparative Example 2, and it can be confirmed that when paraffin wax is used, the leather can not penetrate into the leather, and the product surface is excessively put on the surface and the product value is lowered.

Comparative Example  3

A leather for clothing was prepared using the same procedure as in Example 1 except that a palm oil (pH 5) having a relatively low iodine value (IV) was used instead of the soybean oil used in Example 1. Fig. 5 shows the appearance of the leather of Comparative Example 3, which shows that the flexibility is poor and the degree of appearance of the crazy pattern is poor.

Comparative Example  4

A leather for clothes was prepared using the same method as in Example 1 except that the pH of the sulfonated soybean oil was 3. Fig. 6 shows the appearance of the leather of Comparative Example 4, which shows that the infiltration of oil is poor and the flexibility is poor and the appearance of crazy pattern is poor.

Comparative Example  5

A leather for clothing was produced using the same method as in Example 1 except that the pH of the sulfated soybean oil was 7. FIG. 7 shows the appearance of the leather of Comparative Example 5, which shows that lowering of physical strength and loose grain phenomenon are caused and the merchantability as a product is lowered.

Experimental Example : Measurement of physical properties

The physical properties of the medical leather prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated in the following manner, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

(1) Oil and wax content: Measured by KSM-6882 test method.

(2) Tensile breaking load: Measured by ASTM D-2209 test method.

(3) elongation percentage: measured by ASTM D-2211 test method.

(4) Thermal load: Measured by ASTM D-2262 test method.

(5) Flexibility: Measured by KSM ISO 17235 test method.

division goal
(Reference value) unit Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Oil and wax content 10 to 15 weight% 13.5 7.0 8.2 7.0 6.8 6.5 Tensile breaking load 20 ~ 30 kg / 1.27 cm 24.9 19.8 19.0 18.3 18.0 19.0 Elongation rate 40 to 60 % 47 35 35 30 35 35 Thermal load 3 to 5 kg 3.8 1.3 2.8 2.3 2.5 2.8 flexibility 5 ~ 7 mm 5.3 4.2 4.5 3.5 3.5 3.5

As shown in Table 1, in the case of Example 1 according to the present invention, not only the pattern was formed through the fluidity of the oil and the wax and the milling process, but also the physical properties required for the leather for clothing were all satisfied, In the case of Comparative Example 1, the same pattern as shown in Fig. 2 could not be formed, and the properties required for the leather for clothing could not be satisfied.

Also, in Comparative Example 2, the pattern was not penetrated into the leather, and the leather was excessively put on the surface, resulting in a deterioration of the merchandise value. Also, the product did not satisfy the physical properties required for the leather for clothes.

In the case of Comparative Example 3, the degree of appearance of the crazy pattern in the pattern formation was poor, and the flexibility was also lowered in the properties required for the leather for clothes.

In the case of Comparative Example 4, oil penetration was poor in pattern formation, resulting in poor crazy pattern development, and the flexibility was also lowered in physical properties required for clothing leather.

In the case of Comparative Example 5, the pattern was poorly formed, and the physical strength required for the leather for clothes and the loose grain phenomenon occurred, resulting in a deterioration of the merchantability as a product.

In other words, in order to increase the binding force of oil in leather, a method of manufacturing leather for clothing according to the present invention is to use a specific soybean oil and carnauba wax in a reverse type roll coater , It is possible to ensure the fluidity of the oil and the wax in the fabric due to the prevention of the reverse flow of the fabric and the absorption of a large amount of oil and wax, and the crazy hose type It is possible to provide the leather for clothes of the present invention.

Claims (9)

(I) a branching process that increases flexibility by coating a tannin process and a dyeing process with a soybean oil based on a skin of 0.8-1.2 mm thick leather;
(Ii) a drying step of putting the leather-treated raw hides into a drying chamber equipped with steam and drying the raw hides;
(Iii) coating the dried leather hides with carnauba wax using a roll coater;
(iv) an ironing step of ironing the painted leather hides; And
(V) a milling step of forming the pattern by rotating the dried leather hides into a mill and rotating them;
The method of claim 1, wherein the oil and wax are used in combination.
The soybean oil according to claim 1, wherein the soybean oil is 30 to 50% by weight of water, 10 to 30% by weight of carnauba wax, 30 to 50% by weight of sulphonated soybean oil, and 0.5 to 1.5% Wherein the oil and the wax are mixed with each other.
[3] The sulphonated soybean oil according to claim 2, wherein the sulphonated soybean oil is one obtained by sequentially adding sulfuric acid and sodium chloride to soybean oil having an iodine (IV) content of 100 or more, separating the oil by water, removing water therefrom and then adding sodium hydroxide Wherein the oil is an oil having a pH in the range of 4 to 6, and the oil and wax are used.
The method of claim 1, wherein the step (iii) uses a roll coater equipped with a tip device as a leather release preventing device,
The roll coater is composed of two rolls, which are rotated by reverse rolling to inject the injected carnauba wax into the leather hides,
The rotation speed of the roll coater is 15 to 20 rpm, and the separation distance between rolls is 0.8 to 1.2 mm
A method for manufacturing a leather for clothing which realizes a new pattern using oil and wax.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the step (iii) is repeated five to eight times.
The oil and fat of claim 1, wherein in step (i) the soybean oil and the carnauba wax are adsorbed to the total weight of the leather hull by 10 to 15% A method of manufacturing a leather for clothing which realizes a new pattern using wax.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the drying of the step (ii) is carried out at a temperature of 70 to 80 DEG C for 30 to 60 minutes using a hot air drier. Gt;
The method according to claim 1, wherein the milling of the step (v) is performed at a temperature of 30 to 50 ° C at a rotational speed of 14 to 16 rpm for 30 to 60 minutes. ≪ / RTI >
A process for producing a polyurethane foam according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the tensile breaking load is 20 to 30 kg / 1.27 cm, the elongation percentage is 40 to 60%, the tensile load is 3 to 5 kg and the flexibility is 5 to 7 mm Newly designed leather for clothing using oil and wax.

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