KR100624147B1 - An air textured micro-yarn with excellent suede effect, and a process of preparing for the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an ultrafine intertwined yarn having excellent suede effect, wherein a two-component composite yarn (superfiber) having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after splitting or eluting component eluting has a form in which a thermoplastic multifilament (screening) is wound. The two-component composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more are formed on the surface of the yarn, and the two-component composite yarn loops are formed at about 350 mm / m. It is characterized by an increase of ˜170 times, and the strength of the ultrafine blended yarn after the weight loss compared to the weight loss increases to 5 to 30%. The present invention is produced by air-texturing (air processing) at a pneumatic pressure of 6 to 16 kgf / ㎠ while supplying the two-component composite yarn (super yarn) and the thermoplastic multifilament (screening) at an appropriate overfeed rate, respectively. The ultra-fine blended yarn of the present invention is excellent in monofilament dispersibility in the production of knitted fabrics, has a high hair density, and has a uniform hair growth, and exhibits an excellent suede effect.

Suede, micro fine mixed yarn, two-component composite yarn, super yarn, screening, monofilament dispersibility, hair density, overfeed rate, strength, strength reduction rate

Description

{An air textured micro-yarn with excellent suede effect, and a process of preparing for the same}

1 is a schematic diagram of an air texturing (air processing) process of the present invention.

2 is a schematic diagram of a conventional false twist texturing process

3 is an electron micrograph of the present invention ultrafine hornsum yarn (ATY)

Figure 4 is an electron micrograph of conventional biaxial horn fiber (ITY)

FIG. 5 is an electron micrograph of the ultrafine intertwined yarn portion of the fabric woven with the ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) of Example 1. FIG.

FIG. 6 is an electron micrograph of a biaxial intertwined yarn portion of a fabric woven with a biaxial intertwined yarn (ITY) of Comparative Example 2. FIG.

Figure 7 is an electron micrograph after the weight loss of the present invention ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY)

8 is a strength curve of the present invention ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) according to the reduction ratio

※ Explanation of Codes on Major Parts of Drawings

A: Two-component composite yarn (super yarn) B: Thermoplastic multifilament (screening)

C: High Oriented Unstretched Bicomponent Composite Yarn (Super Yarn)

a: the present invention ultrafine mixed yarn (ATY) loop portion                 

b: Conventional double shrinkage ITY focusing part

c: Conventional double shrink horn bulky part

1, 10: 1st supply roller 2, 13: 2nd supply roller

3, 14: air processing nozzle 4: water supply device

5, 15: 3rd supply roller 6: hollow heater

7: 4th supply roller 8, 16: winding roller

11: hot plate 12: flammable unit

The present invention relates to an ultrafine blended yarn and a method for producing the same, which are excellent in expressing the feel and appearance such as natural leather (hereinafter referred to as a "suede effect").

Synthetic fiber with excellent physical properties has been used as a yarn for clothing with natural fiber for a long time, but synthetic fiber has a problem that it is not soft and soft to the touch.

As one method of imparting soft touch to synthetic fibers like natural fibers, development of ultra-fine synthetic fibers having a monofilament fineness (monofilament fineness) of 1.0 denier or less has been in progress. Ultra-fine synthetic fibers have a touch and functionality more than natural fibers, are easy to process, easy to handle, and can be mass-produced at low cost.

Usually, the ultrafine synthetic fibers are produced by direct spinning or composite spinning.                         

The direct spinning method is difficult to manufacture ultra-fine fibers of less than 0.1 denier because it is directly spun through the detention, and various problems occur in the processing and weaving stage.

On the other hand, in the method of complex spinning, two-component composite yarns are produced by complex spinning of different polymers, such as polyester / polyamide composition or polyester / copolymer polyester composition, and then two-component composites are produced by physical or chemical methods during the post-processing process. Monofilaments (hereinafter referred to as "fibrils") of the in-house fibrous component are prepared by separating and dividing. Therefore, it is easy to manufacture ultrafine fibers of 0.1 denier or less, and since fibrils are separated and divided during the post-process, it is easy to complex with other fibers and has good processing and weaving processability.

However, when the two-component composite yarn prepared by the composite spinning method alone is used in a knitted fabric, it has a disadvantage in that buffing, aftertaste, drape, and rupture strength are inferior. In particular, in the case of the composite spinning of the polyester / co-polyester composition, the copolyester is extracted by the weight loss, so that a space is formed between the knit fabric tissues, resulting in severe decrease in the larynx, drape, and rupture strength of the fabric.

In order to solve the above problems caused by using ultrafine synthetic fibers or two-component composite yarns alone, a method of combining ultrafine synthetic fibers and other fibers has been widely studied.

In the prior art of combining the two-component composite yarns and other fibers in the Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 1998-55564 and 1999-24801 and the like as shown in Figure 2 after stretching the two-component composite yarn (C) in the unstretched state, After supplying the same in the high shrinkage yarn (B) and the air processing nozzle at the same overfeed rate (1 to 5% level), a method of simply interlacing them with air pressure of 1 to 5 kgf / cm 2 is proposed.

Hereinafter, in the present invention, the overfeed rate of the screening and superficial yarns is the same as described above, and the overfeed rate thereof is set to 5% or less, and the air processing and the superficial yarns are subjected to air processing under the conditions set to 5kgf / cm 2 or less. A biaxial blended yarn, which is manufactured by a process of simply interlacing in a nozzle and whose yarns and screens are simply entangled at irregular intervals along the yarn length direction, is defined as "ITY (Interlaced yarn)" as shown in FIG. Specifically, the ITY has a structure in which the focusing part b and the bulky part c are alternately repeated along the yarn length direction as shown in FIG. 4.

The diaxial horn fiber manufactured by the above method exhibits excellent bulkiness due to the biaxial shrinkage difference between the bulky ultrafine fibers and the high shrink yarn during the post-processing process. There is an advantage that sex is expressed. However, since the above method draws and burns unstretched bicomponent composite yarns having weak physical properties alone, process stability is very low under normal flammability conditions, and a blended yarn having excellent bulkiness cannot be obtained.

For example, if the fiber-forming component is polyester and the two-component composite yarn, in which the elution component is a copolyester, is stretched and flawed, the thermal stability of the copolyester as the eluting component is inferior. This is inevitable and has a problem in that it does not give sufficient combustible water (twist number / unit length).                         

As a result, the produced biaxially blended yarn is bulky, that is, the crimp rate (CR%) is very low. Crimp rate is a representative property that shows the bulkiness and quality of the fabric during post-processing. Due to the low crimp rate, it is not possible to obtain high quality fabrics because the ultrafine fibers are not sufficiently blown on the fabric surface.

On the other hand, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. Hei 7-126951 et al. Has an air processing nozzle with a boiling rate of 2-15% for thermoplastic multifilament (screening) and a two-component composite yarn (superfine) for the same overfeed rate (1-5% level). After supplying in the inside, these are simply interlaced (air entanglement) by the air pressure of 1-5 kgf / cm <2>, and the method of manufacturing biaxially-bonded yarn (ITY) is disclosed.

However, the ITY manufactured by the conventional methods is simply a difference in the thermal behavior between the two yarns, the length difference occurs, but the bulkiness is expressed, but the dispersibility of the fibrils is reduced, it has a good suede effect when manufacturing a knitted fabric It does not manifest. More specifically, the biaxial horn fiber (ITY) manufactured by the conventional method has a form in which fibrils are simply focused at regular intervals along the longitudinal direction of the horn fiber as shown in FIG. 4.

As a result, the concentrated fibrils are not dispersed well after fabrication of the knitted fabric, and the length of the raised hair is different because the entangled portion is buffed and the raised and entangled portions are buffed. And the density of hair is also uneven. As a result, when the knitted fabric is manufactured, the napped together as shown in FIG. 6, the bottom surface of the knitted fabric is partially exposed, and thus there is a problem in that an excellent suede effect cannot be expressed.

On the other hand, in another conventional technique, each of the thermoplastic multifilament (screening) having a boiling contraction rate of 2 to 15% and the ordinary low-shrinkable multifilament (trailing) which is not a two-component composite yarn, each has a different overfeed rate (5 to 50% level). After supplying into a furnace air processing nozzle, these methods are also widely performed by air-texturing (air-processing) them with the high air pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm <2>, and manufacturing a biaxially blended yarn.

Hereinafter, in the present invention, as described above, the overfeed rate of the screening and superficial yarns is different, the overfeeding rate thereof is set to a high level of 5 to 50%, and the air pressure is also set to 6 to 16 kgf / cm 2 under the conditions of the screening and superficial yarns. Is manufactured by a process of air texturing in an air processing nozzle, and the ultrafine blended yarn in which the yarns are wound around the screen and the loops (a) of the yarns are formed on the surface of the blended yarn as shown in FIG. 3 is "ATY (Airtextured yarn)". It is defined as.

The ATY prepared as described above forms a loop on the surface of the blended yarn as shown in FIG. 3, but because the weaving yarn forming the loop is not a two-component composite yarn, that is, it is not an ultrafine fiber, and therefore, has a low hair density at the time of fabric production. Fibril dispersion did not occur, there was a problem that does not express the suede effect at all.

An object of the present invention is to provide a fine fibrillation dispersibility after the buffing process in order to solve such a conventional problem, high density of the hair, uniform hair length is also very fine mixed fiber that can express the excellent touch and appearance To provide (ATY). Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing an ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) excellent in the suede effect as described above.

According to the present invention, the two-component composite yarn (superfiber yarn) and thermoplastic multifilament (screening) are subjected to air texturing (air processing) under appropriate conditions, and the superfiber yarn is wound around the screen, and the loop of the two-component composite yarn uniform on the surface of the blended yarn. Is formed, to provide an ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) excellent in the suede effect in the manufacture of knitted fabrics.

In the manufacturing method of the present invention for achieving the above problems in the production of ultra-fine blended yarn (ATY) by air-texuring (air processing) the superfine yarn and the screening, the single yarn fineness after division or after eluting component elution 0.001 ~ 0.3 denier Phosphorus bicomponent composite yarn is used as the superfine yarn, thermoplastic multifilament is used as the screening, the overfeed rate of the superfine yarn is adjusted to 10 to 60%, and the overfeed rate of the screening is adjusted to 5 to 55%, respectively. It is characterized by performing air processing by adjusting to 16kgf / ㎠.

The ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) of the present invention prepared as described above has a form in which a bicomponent composite yarn (superfiber) having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after splitting or eluting component is wound around a thermoplastic multifilament (examination), 2 to 350 bicomponent composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more are formed on the surface of the thread, and 95% or more of the bicomponent composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more have a length of 1.0 to 2.5 mm, Fibrills are completely divided and opened after weight loss compared to before weight loss in woven and knitted fabrics, and the loops on the surface of the blended yarn are increased by 8 to 170 times, and the strength of the ultra fine blended yarn is increased to 5 to 30% after the weight loss compared to the weight loss. It is done.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

The present invention uses the two-component composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after splitting or eluting component elution as the superfine yarn (A), and using the thermoplastic multifilament as the superficial yarn (B). Each of them is supplied to the air processing nozzle 3 through the first supply roller 1 and the second supply roller 2 such that the overfeed rate of the superfiber yarn is 10 to 60% and the overfeed rate of the screening is 5 to 55%. After that, these are subjected to air texturing (air processing) at an air pressure of 6 to 16 kgf / cm 2 to produce an ultrafine blended yarn (ATY).

More preferably, the feeder 4 is moistened with moisture before the feeder B is fed into the air processing nozzle 3.

The overfeed rate of the twisted yarn is adjusted by the linear speed difference between the first supply roller 1 and the third supply roller 5, and the overfeed rate of the screening is adjusted between the second supply roller 2 and the third supply roller 5. Adjust by linear velocity difference.

The micro fine mixed fiber mixed in the air processing nozzle 3 is wound around the winding roller 7 heat-treated in the hollow heater 6.

Various kinds of yarns of the thermoplastic multifilament (examination) may be used, general semi-dull stretched yarns may be used to manufacture inexpensive processed yarns, and high shrinkable multifilaments may be used to maximize bishrinkage effect. In order to achieve the Ziton effect, salty multifilament can be used, yarns such as latent crimps, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and spandex can be used to express stretch functionality, and a release section yarn can be used to give a quick drying function. Can be. In addition, in order to increase the hair density and obtain an optimum appearance, the two-component composite yarn used in the above yarn can be used as a screening.

On the other hand, the two-component composite yarn (super yarn) may be composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component, or may be composed of two or more fiber-forming components. The two-component composite yarn (superfiber) of the present invention may have a fiber-forming component and an eluting component mixed in an island-in-sea type or split type, and the two-component composite yarn of the present invention is a conventional composite composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component It includes all the fibers.

In addition, the two-component composite yarn (super yarn) of the present invention is a composite of two or more fiber-forming components, such as a two-component composite yarn in which polyester and polyamide, which are fiber-forming components, are compounded in a side by side form. Also include composite fibers.

The two-component composite yarn (super yarn) of the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after splitting or eluting component elution. If the single yarn fineness exceeds 0.3 denier after split or eluting component, the suede-like fabric of excellent texture cannot be obtained. If the single yarn fineness is less than 0.001 denier, the texture becomes very good, but the yarn manufacturing processability is poor, and the light fastness and washing fastness are poor. There are disadvantages.

In addition, when the elongation of the two-component composite yarns (superfibers) is less than 23%, yarn manufacturability and processability are reduced, and when the elongation is more than 45%, toughness is increased to decrease the buffing property, and the uniformity of hair may be poor. have. Therefore, the elongation of the two-component composite yarn (superfine yarn) is more preferably 23 to 45%.

As the fiber-forming component, a polyester resin, a polybutylene terephthalate resin, a polyamide resin, or the like may be used, and an additive such as carbon black may be added to the resin. As the elution component, copolyester copolymerized with isophthalate and / or polyalkylene glycol may be used.                     

The two-component composite yarn includes both yarns made by spin direct draw, stretched yarns unstretched or false twisted yarns twisted. In addition, the two-component composite yarn may be in the form of posture yarn prepared by irregularly stretching the undrawn yarn.

1 is an example of an apparatus for making a composite yarn of the present invention. The superficial yarns (A) and screening (B) described above are supplied from supply rollers (1, 2) with different overfeed rates, and the superficial yarns (A) and screening (B) passing the supply rollers are airtexturing at the air processing nozzles. (Air processing) processing.

The reason for supplying the screening and weaving yarn from the different supply rollers is to place the screening (B) at the center of the blended yarn by varying the overfeed rate of the twisted yarn and the screening, and loop the yarn (A) on the surface of the blended yarn as shown in FIG. a) to float in form.

At this time, the overfeed rate of the superficial yarn is 10 to 60%, and the overfeed rate of the screening is 5 to 55%. If the overfeed rate of the superfine yarn is too low, loops may not be well formed on the surface of the blended yarn, and if the overfeed rate of the screening is too high, fairness may be degraded.

The overfeed rate of the weaving and screening is determined by the ratio between the rotational linear speed of the first feed roller 1 and the second supply roller 2 and the rotational linear speed of the third supply roller 5. In other words, when the overfeed rate of the superfine yarn and the screening exceeds 0%, the linear rotational speed of the first supply roller 1 and the second supply roller 2 is faster than the rotational linear speed of the third supply roller 5. Means that.

On the other hand, it is preferable to adjust the overfeed rate ratio of superfine yarn to overfeed rate of 1.2 to 4.0. If the ratio of the overfeed rate is less than 1.2, not only the superfine yarn but also the screen is formed on the surface of the loop and the touch is poor. When the ratio of the overfeed rate exceeds 4.0, the surface loops of the blended yarn may be uneven.

In other words, as the overfeed rate of the superfine yarn and the screen increases, the number of loops formed on the surface of the mixed fiber increases and the loop length also increases. However, if the overfeed rate of superfine yarn and screening becomes excessively high, the intensity | strength of an ultrafine blended yarn will fall.

On the other hand, the air pressure for air texturing (air processing) the screening and superfine yarn is adjusted to 6 to 16 kgf / cm 2. If the air pressure is less than 6 kgf / cm 2, the loops (a) of the two-component composite yarns (superfine yarns) are not formed on the surface of the ultrafine mixed yarn (ATY) as shown in FIG. In accordance with the irregular entangled form, the suede effect is reduced during the production of knitted fabrics. When the air pressure exceeds 16 kgf / cm 2, excessive air pressure damages the screening and superficial yarns, thereby deteriorating the physical properties of the ultrafine interwoven yarn (ATY).

The ultrafine horn filament yarn (ATY) of the present invention prepared as described above has a form in which a two-component composite yarn (super filament) having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after dividing or eluting component is wrapped around a multifilament (examination). 2 to 350 bicomponent composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more are formed on the surface, and 95% or more of the bicomponent composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more have a length of 1.0 to 2.5 mm. When applying the knitted fabrics, the fibrils are completely divided and opened after the weight loss compared to before the weight loss, and the loop on the surface of the blended yarn is increased by 8 to 170 times, and the strength of the ultrafine blended yarn is increased to 5 to 30% after the weight loss.

In the case where the total fineness of the biaxially interwoven yarn (ATY) is 100 denier or less, it is more preferable that the bicomponent composite yarn loops are formed at 2 to 50 / m.

Specifically, the ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) of the present invention is composed of a thermoplastic multifilament as a core and a bicomponent composite yarn as a core.

In the center of the micro-fine fiber (ATY), a large number of thermoplastic multifilaments are distributed, and the external two-component composite yarns of ultra-fine fine islands are distributed in a large amount of loops. Uniform fibrils can be completely dispersed. As a result, a good touch and a suede effect of a dense structure are expressed in the production of knitted fabrics.

Conventional di-shrink blended yarns (ITY) as shown in Figure 4 can be obtained a fabric having a bulky property due to the occurrence of the step difference caused by the difference in the heat shrinkage rate of the screening and weaving, splitting, splitting between fibrils after elution This is not done smoothly because the nipples are united, there is a problem that the fabric of the ultra-fine touch can not be obtained and the appearance becomes poor.

However, in order to solve such a problem, the present invention does not simply mix screening and superfine yarn, but actively protrudes in a loop on the surface of mixed fine yarn (ATY) bicomponent composite yarns that are microscopically divided or eluted. To maximize the difference in the bulkiness of screening and weaving during weaving and to improve the density and uniformity of hair, a suede-like knitted fabric having excellent texture is produced.

Microfiber mixed yarn (ATY) of the present invention having a large amount of loops may be impaired fairness by the loop when applied to a knitted fabric, the loop length and the number of loops is very important to obtain fairness and excellent quality.                     

The ultrafine intertwined yarns (ATY) of the present invention have 2 to 350 bicomponent composite yarn loops of 1.0 mm or more in length per meter. If the number of loops is less than 2 / m it is not possible to obtain a good quality due to the deterioration of bulkiness, if the number of loops exceeds 350 / m is poor workability and weaving due to a large friction force during four run .

In addition, the loop length is also important in order to obtain smooth processability and weaving, and to obtain a uniform hair. At least 95% of the loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more formed in the ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) of the present invention have a length of 1.0 to 2.5 mm. The more loops exceeding 2.5mm, the higher the frictional force, which results in less fairness, and the non-uniform length of the hair after the application of the knitted fabric results in a poor quality fabric.

Figure 7 shows that one loop is increased by several orders of magnitude after weight loss by electron micrographs taken after the eluting component of the present invention prepared in Example 1 is completely eluted in an aqueous solution of 95 ° C. in alkaline aqueous solution. Able to know.

Therefore, since the surface loops of the ultra-fine mixed fibers before weight loss are geometrically increased after the weight loss, many fine loops cover the fabric surface even without raising or buffing process, so that excellent touch fabric can be obtained. When buffing is performed, a superior touch fabric can be obtained. When the weak buffing can be obtained the fabric of the nubuck tank, and if the general brushing or buffing can be obtained a suede-like fabric of excellent quality.

If the air processing (ATY) is carried out using the ultrafine filament of 0.3 denier or less by the direct spinning method and the post processing is carried out by the usual method, a suede-like fabric of excellent quality can be obtained. However, the air processing (ATY) using the ultrafine filament is performed. ), Cutting occurs frequently under high air pressure of 6-16 kgf / cm 2 and high overfeed rate of 10-60%, resulting in poor processability and poor loop quality.

However, the ultra-fine blended yarn of the present invention is easy to process the air because of the air processing by using the screening and superfine yarn having a general single yarn fineness, and the loop quality is excellent, and the weaving preparation process and weaving processability is very excellent due to the stable quality processed yarn. All the processes proceed smoothly until the weight loss and elution process.

When the weight loss and dissolution proceed, one loop is divided into several loops to cover the surface of the fabric, so the hair density is high and when brushed or buffed, the dispersion of hair is excellent and there is no problem such as gloss. It is possible to obtain a suede fabric with excellent touch.

In the present invention, it is most preferable that the number of loops after the weight loss is completely divided and opened to increase the number of loops by 8 to 170 times before the weight loss. If the fabric cannot be obtained and the number of loops after weight loss exceeds 170 times compared to before weight loss, the touch can be excellent, but the hair strength is weak. Color fastness may be poor.

8 is a view showing the change in strength according to the weight loss rate by reducing the ultra-fine blended yarn obtained in Example 1 in alkaline solution. As the eluting component is eluted, the strength is increased proportionally, and the eluting component is completely eluted, and then has the maximum strength value.

In general polyester fibers, the strength decreases as the reduction ratio increases, because the end groups of the amorphous regions are gradually decomposed in the alkaline solution, and the filaments become thinner and embrittlement proceeds. In particular, the polyester to which the inorganic particles are added, the crystal growth is hindered by the inorganic particles to form an amorphous region, the penetration of the alkaline solution in these parts is fast. This creates a myriad of holes in the surface where the inorganic particles were, which promotes a decrease in strength.

However, the two-component composite yarn constituting the ultrafine intertwined yarn of the present invention is composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component. Since the eluting component is copolymerized, the eluting component is easily cured and embrittled by heat, resulting in a very low strength after air processing. However, as the eluting component is eluted due to weight loss and elution, only the fiber forming component having excellent strength remains, thereby increasing the strength.

The rate of change of strength before and after the loss of the ultrafine blended yarns depends on the weight ratio of the bicomponent composite yarns in the ultrafine blended yarns, the ratio of the elution component to the fiber forming component constituting the bicomponent composite yarns, the loss ratio, and the like. The strength change rate before and after is 5-30%, that is, the strength after weight loss is increased by 5-30% compared to the strength before weight loss.

The microfiber blended yarn (ATY) of the present invention described above is used as warp and / or weft yarn to weave or knit in a conventional manner to produce a knitted fabric. Then, the knitted fabric is heat-treated to express the shrinkage difference, the fibrils are divided by alkali weight loss treatment, and the hair is formed through a process such as brushing and buffing, dyeing, chemical treatment and heat setting to prepare the final processed paper.

In the case of using the microfiber blended yarn (ATY) of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric of excellent quality even when only one of the warp yarns or the weft yarns is used instead of all the warp yarns and the weft yarns. The woven fabric thus obtained is characterized in that the fibrills have higher dispersibility, higher hair density, better uniformity and less gloss than the woven fabric obtained in the prior art.

Compared to FIG. 5, which is an electron micrograph of an ultrafine hornsum yarn part of the fabric obtained from Example 1, which is an example of the present invention, and FIG. 6, which is an electron microscope photograph of the biaxial hornsome yarn portion of the fabric obtained from Comparative Example 2 It can be seen that the inventive fabric has a higher hair density than the conventional fabric and is excellent in quality.

In the present invention, various properties and properties of yarns and knitted fabrics were evaluated by the following method.

Fracture Strength (g / d) / Elongation at Break (%)

Measured with an Instron Model 4201 instrument under standard conditions (20 ° C. × 65% RH) according to ASTM D 2556 method.

The rate of increase in the strength of the ultra fine blended yarn after weight loss

In this manner, after measuring the ultra-fine blended yarn breaking strength (X) and the ultra-fine blended yarn breaking strength (Y) after the weight loss at 95 ° C and 1% NaOH solution, respectively, the calculated value is substituted into the following equation.                     

Reduction rate (%)

Raw material weight measured under standard condition (20 ℃ × 65% RH) by treatment of ultrafine mixed fiber in 10 minutes at 95 ℃, 1% weight solution in alkaline solution for 10 ~ 70 minutes and the weight of sample after alkali treatment Measure and calculate by the following formula.

A: Raw material weight of micro fiber

B: Weight of the ultra fine mixed yarn after weight loss treatment

Boiling Shrinkage (%)

It measures by the JIS-L 1037-5-12 method.

Loop length and loop count

Using the FARY COUNTER Model DT-104 manufactured by Toray, Japan, as described in the International Fiber Journal (published December 1993), the measurement is performed for 1 minute at a speed of 60 m / min. Specifically, the number of loops X having a maximum height (hereinafter referred to as "loop length") of the loop protruding to the surface of the blended yarn is measured by the measuring device, and the number of loops having a loop length of 2.5 mm or more ( Y) was measured by the measuring device, and these measured values were substituted into the following equations to determine the length of the loop having a length of 1.0 to 2.5 mm among loops having a loop length of 1.0 mm or more.                     

Looking at the loop length measuring mechanism, a micrometer-mounted yarn guide is used to drive a biaxial horn fiber in a certain direction, and light is passed at a right angle to the driving direction so that a loop shadow of a set value appears on the screen plate. The current flowing through the phototransistor is amplified by an electric signal and automatically countered by the counter to measure the number of loops.

· Drapability / Softness / Uniformity

It is evaluated by the sensory test method of 10 experts. The five-point system was evaluated, and the average point was 4 points or more, and the average point was 3.9 to 3.0, and the average point was 2.9 points or less.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber forming component, and 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 10 wt% of polyethylene glycol were copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as a soluble component, respectively, and a copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 was used. do. The two polymers were melted separately, and spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1,200 m / min using a composite spinning cap, followed by drawing in a conventional manner with a draw ratio of 3.3 times. 8%, strength 4.0g / denier, elongation 32%, weight ratio of eluting component and fiber-forming component is 3: 7, 120 denier / 48 where single filament is divided into 36 fibrils after weight loss and elution. A bicomponent composite yarn of filaments is prepared. Meanwhile, when synthesizing polyethylene terephthalate, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 prepared by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, a third copolymerization component, 10 mol% was melted at 280 ° C. and spun at a spinning speed of 1,450 m / min, followed by 90 ° C. Stretching at 2.9 times to prepare a 30 degree denier / multifilament of 30 denier / 12 filament with a boiling shrinkage of 23%, strength 4.0g / denier, elongation 28%. The two-component composite yarn prepared as described above was supplied to the air processing nozzle (using the Hebrain T-311 nozzle) with superfiber at an overfeed rate of 50%, and the air processing nozzle was screened by the thermoplastic multifilament prepared as described above. To the feed at a feed rate of 25%, they are airtextured (air-processed) at an air pressure of 13 kgf / cm 2, and then thermally set at 180 ° C. in the hollow heater 6 to produce an ultrafine mixed fiber (ATY). Weaving fabrics of eight runner tissues using the ultra-fine blended yarn (ATY) as a weft yarn, and then suede-like fabrics are prepared by refining, alkali reduction, dyeing, heat setting, brushing, and buffing according to conventional conditions. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the prepared ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) and the fabric are shown in Table 2.

Example 2-Example 6 and Comparative Example 1

Except for changing the boiling shrinkage of the polyester multifilament, the overfeed rate of the screen, and the overfeed rate of the superfiber as shown in Table 1, the ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) and suede-like fabrics were prepared in the same process as in Example 1. Manufacture. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the prepared ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) and the fabric are shown in Table 2.

Manufacture conditions division Examination boiling contraction rate (%) Air pressure (kgf / ㎠) Overfeed rate (%) judge Draft Example 1 23 13 25 50 Example 2 23 11 15 30 Example 3 23 9 10 20 Example 4 13 11 15 30 Example 5 6 11 15 30 Example 6 8 11 15 30 Comparative Example 1 23 17 42 66

Example 7

Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber forming component, and 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 10 wt% of polyethylene glycol were copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as a soluble component, respectively, and a copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 was used. do. The two polymers were melted separately, and spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1,200 m / min using a composite spinning cap, followed by drawing in a conventional manner with a draw ratio of 3.3 times. 8%, strength 4.0g / denier, elongation 33%, weight ratio of the eluting component and the fiber-forming component is 3: 7, 80 denier / 24 filament in which single filament is divided into 36 fibrils after weight loss and elution To prepare a two-component composite yarn. Next, two-component composite yarns prepared as described above are used as superfine yarn and screening, and are subjected to air-texturing (air processing) under the same process and conditions as in Example 2 to produce ultrafine intertwined yarns (ATY). After weaving fabrics of eight runner tissues using the ultra-fine blended yarn (ATY) as a weft yarn, the suede-like fabric is manufactured by refining, alkali reduction, dyeing, heat setting, brushing, and buffing according to the usual conditions. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the prepared ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) and the fabric are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber forming component, and 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 10 wt% of polyethylene glycol were copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as a soluble component, respectively, and a copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 was used. do. The two polymers were melted separately, and spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and spinning speed of 3,200 m / min using a composite spinning cap pack to produce a highly oriented undrawn yarn of 200 denier / 48 filaments. Combustion by the usual method in the composite combustible expectation (heating plate: 150 ℃) of 2, the boiling shrinkage is 6%, the strength is 3.8g / denier, elongation is 28%, the weight ratio of the eluting component and the fiber-forming component is 3: 7, 120 denier / 48 filament false twist yarn is produced in which single yarn filament is divided into 36 fibrils after weight loss and elution. Meanwhile, when synthesizing polyethylene terephthalate, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 prepared by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, which is a third copolymerization component, 10 mol% was melted at 280 ° C. and spun at a spinning speed of 1,450 m / min, followed by 90 ° C. Stretched at 2.9 times to prepare a thermoplastic multifilament of 30 denier / 12 filaments having a boiling shrinkage of 23%, a strength of 4.0 g / denier and an elongation of 28%. Each of the twisted yarns and thermoplastic multifilaments manufactured as described above were successively interlaced (air entangled) under the conditions of an overfeed rate of 2.5% and an air pressure of 3.5 kgf / cm 2 at the composite twisted base to prepare a biaxially woven fiber. . After weaving the fabric of eight runner tissues using the biaxially woven fiber (ITY) as a weft yarn, the suede-like fabric is manufactured by refining, alkali reduction, dyeing, heat setting, brushing, and buffing according to conventional conditions. . The results of evaluating the physical properties of the manufactured biaxial horn fiber (ITY) and the fabric are shown in Table 2.

Comparative Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 was used as the fiber forming component, and 2.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 10 wt% of polyethylene glycol were copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as a soluble component, respectively, and a copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.58 was used. do. The two polymers were melted separately, and spun at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1,200 m / min using a composite spinning cap, followed by drawing in a conventional manner with a draw ratio of 3.3 times. 6%, strength 4.0g / denier, strength 28%, weight ratio of eluting component and fiber-forming component is 3: 7, 120 denier / 48 filament where single filament is divided into 36 fibrils after weight loss and elution To prepare a two-component composite yarn. Meanwhile, when synthesizing polyethylene terephthalate, a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 prepared by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, which is a third copolymerization component, 10 mol% was melted at 280 ° C. and spun at a spinning speed of 1,450 m / min, followed by 90 ° C. Stretched at 2.9 times to prepare a thermoplastic multifilament of 30 denier / 12 filaments having a boiling shrinkage of 23%, a strength of 4.0 g / denier and an elongation of 28%. The two-component composite yarn prepared as described above was supplied to the air processing nozzle (using the Hebrain T-100 nozzle) at a superfeed rate of 3%, and the air processing nozzle was examined by the thermoplastic multifilament prepared as described above. Is fed at an overfeed rate of 3%, and they are interlaced (air entanglement) with an air pressure of 3.5 kgf / cm 2 to produce a biaxially woven fiber. After weaving the fabric of eight runner tissues using the biaxial horn fiber (ITY) as a weft yarn, the suede-like fabric is manufactured by refining, alkali reduction, dyeing, heat setting, brushing, and buffing according to conventional conditions. The results of evaluating the physical properties of the manufactured biaxial horn fiber (ITY) and the fabric are shown in Table 2.

Ultrafine blended yarn and fabric properties division Microfine blended yarn Fabric properties Number of loops between 1.0 and 2.5mm (number / m) Number of loops over 2.5mm (number / m) Strength before weight loss (g / denier) Strength after weight loss (g / denier) Surface loop increase ratio after loss (times) Drape castle Softness Hair density Example 1 158 3 1.8 2.0 36 Great Great Good Example 2 101 0 2.6 2.9 36 Great Great Great Example 3 56 0 3.2 3.4 36 Good Good Great Example 4 105 One 2.6 3.1 36 Great Great Great Example 5 103 0 2.6 3.2 36 Good Great Great Example 6 111 0 2.4 3.0 36 Good Great Great Example 7 156 2 1.7 2.0 155 Great Great Great Comparative Example 1 265 173 1.3 1.32 0 Good Great Bad Comparative Example 2 0 0 3.8 3.9 0 Good Bad Bad Comparative Example 3 0 0 3.6 3.7 0 Bad Bad Bad

The ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) of the present invention is excellent in monofilament dispersibility of two-component composite yarns in the production of knitted fabrics, has a high hair density, and has a uniform hair length. Therefore, the ultra-fine blended yarn of the present invention is useful as a yarn for clothing.

Claims (9)

The two-component composite yarn loop in which the single-component composite yarn (superfine yarn) having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after the split or eluted component is wound around the thermoplastic multifilament (screening) and has a length of 1.0 mm or more on the surface of the mixed yarn yarn. Is formed from 2 to 350 pieces / m, and 95% or more of the two-component composite yarn loop having a length of 1.0 mm or more has a length of 1.0 to 2.5 mm. Fine and fine blended yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect, characterized in that the loops of the blended yarn surface are increased by 8 to 170 times, and the strength of the fine blended yarn is increased to 5 to 30% after the weight loss. The ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 1, wherein the two-component composite yarn (superfiber) is composed of two or more kinds of fiber-forming components. The ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 1, wherein the two-component composite yarn (super yarn) is composed of a fiber forming component of polyester and a fiber forming component of polyamide. The ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 1, wherein the two-component composite yarn (superfiber) is composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component. The ultrafine blended yarn having excellent suede effect (ATY) according to claim 4, wherein the fiber-forming component and the eluting component in the two-component composite yarn (super yarn) are composited in an island-in-sea type or a split type. The ultrafine intertwined yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 1, wherein two to fifty-component composite yarn loops having a length of 1.0 mm or more are formed. In manufacturing ultra fine mixed yarn (ATY) by air-texturing (air processing) of superfine yarn and screening, a thermoplastic multifilament is used as a bicomponent composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.3 denier after splitting or eluting component elution. The suede effect is characterized by adjusting the overfeed rate of the superficial yarn to 10 to 60%, the overfeed rate of the screening to 5 to 55%, and the air pressure to 6 to 16kgf / cm2. Preparation method of ultrafine blended yarn (ATY). The method for producing ultrafine blended yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 7, wherein the elongation of the superfine yarn and the screening is 23 to 45%. 8. The method for producing ultrafine interweave yarn (ATY) having excellent suede effect according to claim 7, wherein the overfeed ratio of superfine yarn / overfeed ratio of superfine yarn is adjusted to 1.2 to 4.0.

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