KR100439595B1 - Tocopherol-containing Ceramide Liquid Crystal Capsule, Emulsion thereof and Cosmetic comprising the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule useful for improving dry skin and inhibiting skin aging, wherein ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids and oils are contained in a weight ratio of 3.0 to 7.0: 4.0 to 8.0: 4.0 to 9.0: 1.0 to 3.0. It is characterized in that the tocopherol is contained in the ceramide liquid crystal capsule. The tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule of the present invention is not only skin irritation and excellent transdermal absorption, it is excellent in the improvement effect of dry skin because it can impart excellent moisture retention ability to the skin. In addition, the stability over time according to the temperature change is good and the antioxidant capacity is maintained for a long time, it shows an excellent effect on the skin aging suppression.

Description

Tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules, emulsions thereof and cosmetics comprising the same

The present invention relates to a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule, an emulsion thereof, and a cosmetic containing the same, which are useful for improving dry skin and inhibiting skin aging. More particularly, the present invention relates to a ceramide liquid crystal capsule comprising ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, and oils. The present invention relates to a ceramide liquid crystal capsule containing a tocopherol, a paper-soluble active substance, an emulsion thereof, and a cosmetic comprising the same.

In general, the moisture content of the normal stratum corneum is about 10 to 30%. The proper moisture contained in the stratum corneum not only smoothes and softens the skin's surface, but also provides normal body protection. When the moisture content of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, the skin becomes rough and the body loses its protective function, causing aging. For example, in dry skin, the scaling of keratinocytes is weakened and scales are peeled off from the surface of the skin, resulting in a scaling phenomenon. Because it is a little. In addition, even in healthy skin, the lack of moisture caused by changes in the external environment may cause a poor skin condition.

Therefore, it is very important to properly maintain the moisture content of the stratum corneum. For this purpose, conventionally, sebum-like components, NMF components, or moisturizers such as polyols have been used in cosmetics, but only temporary effects have been obtained.

Recent studies have shown that ceramide, the main component of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum, maintains the water retention ability of the stratum corneum, strengthens the barrier function of the skin, and plays an important role in maintaining the cohesion and adhesion of keratinocytes. . Therefore, attempts have been made to maintain the water retention ability of the stratum corneum and enhance the barrier function by adding the ceramide component to the cosmetic. For example, US Pat. Nos. 5294444, 5368857 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 81-123210 disclose cosmetics in which ceramide is incorporated into a formulation. However, ceramide is not compatible with other raw materials, so it is difficult to formulate the ceramide to a concentration sufficient to exhibit efficacy in the product when the ceramide is simply formulated in the cosmetics as described above. Therefore, since the amount of use is limited, there is a disadvantage in that the water retention ability and barrier function improvement effect of the stratum corneum is insignificant.

On the other hand, the human body needs a continuous supply of oxygen in order to maintain life phenomena. During the metabolism, harmful and reactive oxygen compounds (ROS: Reactive Oxygen Species) are produced. These oxygen compounds, called oxygen free radicals, toxic oxygens, and reactive oxygen species, are highly reactive with their surroundings, so their major cellular components are proteins, lipids, It destroys nucleic acids (DNA, RNA) in a chain or causes modifications, thereby lowering important physiological functions such as enzyme activity and normal expression of genes.

Generally, about 5% of the oxygen consumption of the total oxygen consumption can be treated without significant damage by the body's defense function represented by antioxidant enzymes, but the generation of harmful oxygen by external environment such as smoking, ultraviolet ray, ozone, etc. This can increase rapidly. As a result, it is difficult to process the increased oxygen free radicals only by the antioxidant function possessed by the human body, so it is necessary to receive an antioxidant substance from the outside.

Antioxidants may be supplied, for example, in food or cosmetics, and these are called antioxidants. Representative antioxidant vitamins include vitamin E, vitamin C and beta-carotene. These antioxidants not only remove free radicals by themselves, but also assist the polymer antioxidant enzymes in the body, increase their antioxidant function through interactions with each other, and inhibit the destruction of antioxidants by oxidation.

Conventionally, these antioxidant components are simply blended or stabilized in an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, or stabilized in a water-in-oil (W / O / W) polyphase emulsion form. It was added to the cosmetic. However, the methods have a problem that the activity of the antioxidant component is deteriorated over time, deteriorated to another substance, or a specific odor is generated to irritate the skin.

The technical problem of the present invention is to solve the above problems to not only give sufficient water retention capacity to the stratum corneum, but also to facilitate the percutaneous absorption of the ceramide liquid crystal capsule to improve the skin condition, enhance the antioxidant capacity and skin The present invention provides a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule containing tocopherol that inhibits aging so as to be stable to heat or light.

Another technical problem of the present invention is to provide an emulsion of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule.

Another technical problem of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic containing an emulsion of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule.

1 is a scanning electron micrograph of a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention.

In order to achieve the above technical problem, the present invention includes a tocopherol in a ceramide liquid crystal capsule containing ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acids, and oils in a weight ratio of 3.0 to 7.0: 4.0 to 8.0: 4.0 to 9.0: 1.0 to 3.0. Provided is a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule.

Unlike other liquid crystals, the ceramide liquid crystal capsule formed at such a compounding ratio does not cause a swelling process, and the fat soluble active material tocopherol is effectively contained in the ceramide liquid crystal so as not to be affected by external heat or light.

Ceramides constituting the ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention include ceramides of copper, plant origin, and ceramides of yeast origin, for example, ceramide I, ceramide II, ceramide III, ceramide IV, ceramide V, ceramide VI One or more kinds of derivatives may be used in admixture.

As cholesterol, cholesteryl nonanoate, cholesteryl cinnamate, cholesteryl benzoate, cholesteryl adipate, cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesterol One or more cholesterols selected from cholesterol derivatives consisting of sterylpropionate, cholesteryloleyl carbonate and cholesterylisostearyl carbonate can be used.

In addition, as the oil constituting the ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention, one or more of oils such as octyldodecanol, squalane, octyltodecyl myristate, octyl palmitate, and caprylic capric triglyceride may be used. .

In the ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention, the content of tocopherol is preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt% based on the total weight of the ceramide liquid crystal capsule. If the content of tocopherol is less than 1.0% by weight, the antioxidant ability to prevent skin aging may be insignificant. In addition, when the content of tocopherol exceeds 10.0% by weight, the solubility of tocopherol may be degraded and precipitated. Therefore, since it impedes the formation of the ceramide liquid crystal capsule, when applied to the cosmetic it may lower the stability of the cosmetic.

In order to achieve the above another technical problem, the present invention comprises ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and oils in a weight ratio of 3.0 to 7.0: 4.0 to 8.0: 4.0 to 9.0: 1.0 to 3.0, and the ceramide liquid crystal capsule containing tocopherol therein. To provide an emulsion of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule having a content of 25 to 55% by weight based on the total weight. The method for producing an emulsion of such a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule is as follows.

First, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and oils are mixed in a weight ratio of 3.0 to 7.0: 4.0 to 8.0: 4.0 to 9.0: 1.0 to 3.0, and dissolved by heating at 82 to 85 ° C, for example, to prepare an oily part. Subsequently, tocopherol is added to the oil portion, followed by mixing with an aqueous portion containing distilled water as the main component, followed by stirring to emulsify. That is, for example, the emulsification step may be emulsified by a method in which the oily part and the aqueous part to which the utocopherol is added are put in a vacuum mixer and stirred at a speed of 2,500 to 4,000 rpm with a homomixer while maintaining at 70 to 75 ° C. Then, the obtained emulsion can be cooled to a temperature of, for example, 25 to 35 ° C., thereby producing a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule emulsion according to the present invention.

Tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule emulsion prepared in this way can be applied to cosmetics made of various formulations, such as lotions, creams, essences, etc. It is preferably added in the range of 1.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetics. When the content of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule is less than 1.0% by weight, the effect may be insignificant, and when it exceeds 20.0% by weight, it may be difficult to prepare a formulation such as lotion, cream, essence, and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to experimental examples and examples. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the present invention should not be construed as limited to the embodiments described below. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more completely explain the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Examples 1 to 3

In accordance with the composition shown in Table 1 below, propylene glycol was used as a solvent, and the raw materials 1 to 6 were mixed and stirred at 80 to 85 ° C. while being dissolved. Tocopherol was added thereto at 70 to 75 ° C., mixed with an aqueous part consisting of 8 to 11, emulsified with a homomixer at a speed of 2500 to 4000 rpm for 3 to 6 minutes, and then naturally cooled to 25 to 35 ° C. Tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules were prepared.

Raw material name (% by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 One Ceramide 3.0 5.0 7.0 2 Propylene glycol 10.0 14.0 18.0 3 Isostearic acid 4.0 6.0 9.0 4 Octyldodecanol 1.0 1.0 1.0 5 Triethanolamine 2.0 2.0 2.0 6 Cholesterol isostearate 4.0 6.0 8.0 7 Tocopherol 1.0 5.0 10.0 8 Dimethicone 0.2 0.2 0.2 9 Carboxy Vinyl Polymer 5.0 5.0 5.0 10 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.3 0.3 0.3 11 Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount

In Table 1, ceramide is ceramide LS 3773 of Sererobiologiques of France, octyl dodecanol of Eutanol-G of Henkel of Germany, cholesterol isostearate of Japan Kacer's Excerparl IS-CE was used, Tocopherol was manufactured by Henkel, Germany, and the carboxyvinyl polymer was US B. F. Carbopol 941 from B. F. Goodrich was used as a 1 wt% aqueous solution.

1 is a scanning electron microscope (SEM: Electron Microscopy, VG Microthch E7400) of the liquid crystal capsule prepared according to Example 3 (4,000 times). As shown in FIG. 2, the liquid crystal capsule of the present invention was formed in a rigid structure having a high concentration of a multilayer film, and existed in various forms having a size of approximately 0.5 5.0 μm when hydrated with 10% water.

Examples 4-6

To prepare an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion containing a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the composition of Table 2.

First, the water phase and the oil phase were heated and dissolved at 75-80 degreeC, respectively, and the oil phase was added to the water phase. The mixture thus obtained was emulsified with a homomixer at a rate of 4,000 to 6,000 rpm with stirring for 4 to 6 minutes, and then a tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule was added at 45 to 50 ° C. to obtain an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion.

division Raw material name (% by weight) Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Triethanolamine 0.15 0.15 0.15 Carboxy vinyl polymer (1 wt% aqueous solution) 10.0 10.0 10.0 Dark glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paid Cetostearyl alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan monostearate 0.3 0.3 0.3 POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isocetil Myristate 7.0 7.0 7.0 Isocetyl octinoate 5.0 5.0 5.0 Liquid crystal capsule Ceramide Capsule of Example 3 1.0 10.0 20.0

Comparative Examples 1 to 3

An oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Examples 4 to 6, except that tocopherol was simply added according to the conventional method instead of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the composition of Table 3 below.

division Raw material name (% by weight) Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Triethanolamine 0.15 0.15 0.15 Carboxy vinyl polymer (1 wt% aqueous solution) 10.0 10.0 10.0 Dark glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paid Cetostearyl alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan monostearate 0.3 0.3 0.3 POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isocetil Myristate 7.0 7.0 7.0 Isocetyl octinoate 5.0 5.0 5.0 additive Tocopherol 0.1 1.0 2.0

In Tables 2 and 3, the carboxyvinyl polymers are prepared in US B. Chem. F. Carbopol 941 (BFGoodrich) in a 1% by weight aqueous solution, sorbitan monostearate is Arlacel 60, a product of ICI (USA), Pio (20) sorbitan mono Stearate used Tween 60 of Isaiah, USA, and isocetyloctanoate of IHIC Co., Ltd. of Japan Nihon Kokyo Alcohol.

The oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion prepared by the above-described method was measured as time-lapse stability, skin irritation, water retention ability, dry skin improvement effect and transdermal absorption as follows.

Triangular stability test

Samples prepared according to Examples 4-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were placed in opaque containers and stored for 16 weeks at room temperature (25 ° C.) and high temperature (40 ° C.), for 1 week, 4 weeks, 8 weeks and After 16 weeks, the amount of tocopherol remaining in the cosmetic composition was quantified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and the results are shown in Table 4 as the remaining amount (% by weight).

Storage condition Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 25 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 90 86 80 4 Weeks 99 99 98 70 64 60 8 Weeks 97 96 94 56 50 44 16 Weeks 92 92 90 40 36 30 40 ℃ 1 week 100 100 100 78 72 66 4 Weeks 97 97 96 62 54 50 8 Weeks 92 91 90 46 40 34 16 Weeks 88 86 85 32 26 20

Referring to Table 4, the cosmetics of Examples 4 to 6 containing the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules were excellent in aging stability at room temperature and high temperature. The amount destabilized by moisture and oxygen at each temperature condition is only 15% after 16 weeks. On the contrary, it can be seen that the cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, in which tocopherol was simply blended, greatly degraded aging stability at both room temperature and high temperature.

Skin primary irritation test

50 healthy adult men and women were placed on the back of each of the samples prepared according to Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 (approximately 0.2 g), and then the pin chamber was removed for 2 hours. Then, the skin condition change was visually read and the results are shown in Table 6. Criteria are shown in Table 5 below.

Stimulus Reaction Criteria 0 - No symptoms One +- Have only a slight erythema reaction 2 + Clear erythema, with edema but without blisters 3 ++ Clear erythema, edema, blisters 4 +++ If you have a cannon

In addition, the skin irritation index was determined according to the following formula.

Skin irritation index = Number of test subjects / total test subjects with irritability × response

sample Judgment result (the number of people) Skin irritation index ++ + +- - Example 4 0 0 One 24 0.02 Example 5 0 0 2 23 0.04 Example 6 0 0 One 24 0.02 Comparative Example 1 0 0 One 24 0.02 Comparative Example 2 0 0 2 23 0.04 Comparative Example 3 0 0 2 23 0.04

As shown in Table 6, the cosmetics of Examples 4 to 6 showed a stable skin irritation index without significant difference compared to the cosmetics of the conventional Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

Moisture retention test

In order to determine the water retention capacity of the samples prepared according to Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the following tests were performed twice a day for 24 months on 24 adult men and women with dry hand regions.

First, before using the samples of Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the skin moisture content measuring device (Skin Surface Hygrometer) ), Model name: SKICON-200, manufactured by IBM Corporation, Japan. Then, the skin moisture content after using the samples for 3 months on the back of the hand was measured and the results are shown in Table 7 (unit of the value used here is μs).

Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Before use 2.4 2.6 2.6 2.4 2.4 2.6 after use 43 56 60 24 32 42

As shown in Table 7, the cosmetics of Examples 4 to 6 containing the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules were superior in the moisture retention effect compared to the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 in which the tocopherol was simply added.

Dry skin improvement effect measurement test

In order to examine the dry skin improvement effects of the samples prepared according to Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the following tests were conducted twice a day for 24 months on 24 adult men and women with dry hand regions. Was performed.

First, before using the samples according to Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the scale generated on the skin with respect to the area of the 4 cm x 4 cm area of the back of the subject's hand was selected as a dry evaluation parameter and used as a handy scope. After measuring the back of the hand, the scale area was measured using image analysis. Then, the scale area after using the samples on the back of the hand for 3 months was measured and the results are shown in Table 8. The figures used are% of scale area.

Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Before use 15.4 15.2 14.8 15.2 14.8 14.8 after use 4.6 3.2 1.6 6.2 5.4 4.4

As shown in Table 8, the cosmetics of Examples 4 to 6 containing the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules significantly reduced the scale area compared to the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 containing the tocopherol. Therefore, it can be seen that the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention has an excellent effect of improving dry skin.

Percutaneous absorption measurement test

In order to evaluate the percutaneous absorption promoting effect of tocopherol contained in the samples prepared according to Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, three skin permeation tests were performed using the skin of hairless mice. 48 μl of samples were injected into the skin surface of 7.5 mm in diameter, and the amount of tocopherol permeated after 24 hours using a transdermal absorption device (Microette, Hanson Co.) was analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography. Quantification The results are shown in Table 9 as transmittance (%).

Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Transmittance (%) 14.2 15.4 17.6 3.82 3.94 3.92

As shown in Table 9, the cosmetics of Examples 4 to 6 containing the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules were significantly promoted transdermal absorption, compared to the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 containing a simple tocopherol, and also the content of ceramide liquid crystal capsule As this increases (Example 4 → 6), it can be seen that the transdermal absorption of tocopherol also increases proportionally.

As described above, the cosmetic composition containing the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule according to the present invention is not only irritating skin and excellent transdermal absorption, it is excellent in the improvement effect of dry skin because it can impart excellent moisture retention ability to the skin. . In addition, the stability over time according to the temperature change is good and the antioxidant capacity is maintained for a long time, it shows an excellent effect on the skin aging suppression.

Claims (4)

Ceramide liquid crystal capsule containing ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid and oil in a weight ratio of 3.0 to 7.0: 4.0 to 8.0: 4.0 to 9.0: 1.0 to 3.0, tocopherol contained 1.0 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the ceramide liquid crystal capsule Tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsules. delete The emulsion of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule of claim 1, wherein the content of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule is 25 to 55% by weight based on the total weight. A cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the content of the tocopherol-containing ceramide liquid crystal capsule emulsion is 1.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight.