JPS6335843A - Polyester processed product and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Abstract] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Field of Industrial Application The present invention relates to a processed polyester yarn and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, crimped filaments having different dyeability are The present invention relates to a processed polyester yarn that has irregular spots and gives a swelling effect due to the difference in length between filaments, a unique color effect, and a flame effect, and a method for producing the same.

Conventional technology In recent years, various types of yarn have been developed to increase the added value of fiber m%I products. For example, by varying the dyeing behavior in the longitudinal direction of the filament yarn or between filaments, it is possible to create marbled or heathered tones. Multifilament yarns have been proposed.

Problems to be Solved by the Invention In general, the different color effect is effective in obtaining particularly deep color tones, and the more fibers that have different dyeing behavior, the better the effect. However, the conventionally known multifilament yarns having a marbled tone or heathered tone as described above can only produce a different color effect of two colors or shading, and cannot obtain a deep color tone effect.

The present invention aims to provide a polyester-based processed yarn and a method for producing the same, which can produce a knitted fabric with a deeper color tone and high flame effect and swelling effect similar to that of wool fibers. It is something to do.

Means for Solving the Problems In order to solve the above problems, the polyester processed yarn of the first invention is a crimped ester filament that has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction and is undyable to ionic dyes. F, a polyester crimped filament F that has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction and is dyeable with ionic dyes. It is 1:5~521
The polyester-based crimped filaments F1 and F2 are mixed in ratio, and most of the above-mentioned ester-based crimped filaments F1 and F2 are uneven in phase, and the method for producing a polyester-based processed yarn according to the second invention includes: Birefringence (mu) is 20 x 10 ~
A highly oriented undrawn polyester filament that is 80×10 and undyable to ionic dyes, and a highly oriented undrawn polyester filament that is dyeable to ionic dyes and has a birefringence (addition) lower than the highly oriented undrawn polyester filament by 65×10. A multifilament mixed with a polyester highly oriented undrawn filament is subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a relaxation rate It is characterized by stretching at a magnification of DR and then false twisting.

DR= 0.6 (10-cho σb) ~ 1-3 (1+i
) First, in the first invention, the polyester crimped filament F1 constituting the polyester processed yarn is undyable with ionic dyes, and the polyester crimped filament F is dyeable with ionic dyes, Both have irregular thickness unevenness and crimps in the longitudinal direction (v!4 fiber axis direction), and exhibit a multicolored ink dyeing effect and a bulging effect. Both of the above-mentioned thickness irregularities must be present, and if there is no irregularity in either one, no effect can be obtained. The thick portions of both of the polyester crimped filaments Fi and Fz are both less oriented and have a lower crystallinity than the finer details, and therefore are thought to have more dye-dyed spots, and are dyed deeply. The polyester crimped filament Fl, which is undyable with ionic dyes, is dyed only with disperse dyes and has dark dyed areas and light dyed areas alternately in the longitudinal direction. Further, the polyester crimped filament F2 dyeable with ionic dyes is dyed not only with ionic dyes but also with disperse dyes, and has dark dyed areas and light dyed areas in the longitudinal direction. The mixing ratio of the preester crimped filaments F1 and Fl is the marbled yarn after dyeing,
In order to obtain a stable color tone in heathered yarn, the weight ratio is 1.
:5 to 5:1, and particularly preferably 1:3 to 3:1. Furthermore, each filament has crimps, and yarns that have been crimped by false twisting and crimping are particularly
Since the large part of each filament is mixed with the small part and undergoes twisting deformation by false twisting, heat setting, and untwisting, the large part undergoes more torsional deformation than the small part, and the filament length increases. The resulting crimped yarn has concave filaments and yarn length differences within the filament, which causes the yarn to swell and become more air-containing. You can also get a plumping effect.

The above features of the processed polyester yarn of the present invention are conceptually illustrated in FIG. 1.

That is, Fl indicates a polyester filament that is undyable to ionic dyes, and the dark dyed thick part Fla and the light dyed detail Fl
b exist irregularly. On the other hand, F2 shows a polyester filament dyeable with an ionic dye, and a dark dyed thick part Fza and light dyed details F and b are irregularly present.

and! I dyed thick part F1a and dark dyed thick part F2a fi! (
The light dyed details F, b and the light dyed details Fzb) are shifted in the fiber axis direction, and therefore, when dyed separately with disperse dyes and ionic dyes, the dark dyed thick areas and light dyed details are staggered. Appears on the surface, effectively expressing the ink dyeing multicolor effect. On the other hand, in the yarn conceptually shown in Figure 2 for comparison, the dark dyed thick part fla s is a polyester filament f that is undyable with ionic dyes, and the polyester filament f is dyeable with ionic dyes. f8 thick dyed m fga
The positions of the crimped filaments are aligned with respect to the fiber axis direction, the dark dyed thick part and the light dyed detail of each crimped filament are aligned, and each part of the crimped filament is not effectively exposed on the yarn surface, and the ionic dye Even if dyed separately with disperse dyes, the surface of the fabric will have a heathered or sink-like appearance, and the multicolor effect or deep tone effect of ink dyeing cannot be obtained.

Next, in the second invention, birefringence (△n) is used as the raw yarn.
A highly oriented undrawn polyester filament that is undyable with ionic dyes and has a birefringence of at least 65 x 10 lower than that of the filament, which is dyeable with ionic dyes. A multifilament made of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments is used. The birefringence of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are undyable to ionic dyes is 20X.
If it is less than 10"-', even if the filament is uneven in thickness, the degree of orientation in most of the filament is too low, resulting in poor abrasion resistance and chemical resistance. On the other hand, if the birefringence (△n) of the highly oriented undrawn polyester filament that is undyable with ionic dyes exceeds 80 x 10, the orientation will be too high. As a result, sufficient shrinkage cannot be obtained during the relaxation heat treatment, making it difficult to obtain yarns with the desired thickness irregularities and shading.Furthermore, highly oriented polyester dyes dyeable with the ionic dyes are used. If the birefringence of the undrawn filament is less than 5×10 2 than the multiphase refractive index of the polyester-based highly oriented drawn filament, the phases of the thick parts of both will be easily aligned. , the desired flame effect and color tone effect cannot be obtained.Most of the phase of the processed polyester yarn obtained by the present invention is between the filament that is undyable to ionic dyes and the filament that is dyeable. The reason for the difference is not clear in detail, but the amount of shrinkage is different between these filaments, so the amount of stretching and stretching tension in the subsequent drawing process are different, and as a result, the position where the bulk is formed is different. Conceivable.

The above-mentioned multifilament, which is a mixture of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are undyable with ionic dyes and highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are dyeable with ionic dyes, has a relaxation rate X% of 30% or more. Perform relaxation heat treatment. When the relaxation rate X% is less than 30%, the contraction top is insufficient and the desired thickness unevenness (darkly dyed thick part) cannot be obtained. By setting the relaxation rate X% to 30% or more, it is possible to obtain spots of sufficient thickness and a large shrinkage difference, which allows ionic dyes to be undyed and dyed by the stretching process in the post-process. The thick part phase between the filaments can be made irregular.

This is because shrinkage spots occur in the longitudinal direction within the multifilament, and correspondingly, areas where the amount of shrinkage is large and the birefringence is low are easily stretched and become fine details, and the areas where the amount of shrinkage is relatively small and the birefringence is low. This is thought to be because areas with a high ratio are difficult to stretch and become large areas. There is no particular upper limit to the above relaxation rate, but
Preferably, it does not exceed 140%. Further, the relaxation heat treatment temperature is preferably 130°C to 200°C.

If it is less than (1+1i5-?5-), the draw ratio is too low and there is a large amount of 18s in the filament, and the 18s is too small, so the dark and light tone effect of the thickness unevenness is not fully exhibited, and the multicolored marbling effect, no heathering effect was obtained, and on the other hand, the stretching ratio was 1.3.
If it exceeds (1 + 2), the drawing ratio is too high and there are too few parts in the filament, and the filament becomes full of details, and rather than uneven thickness, it becomes just a few thick parts that can be seen here and there, and the purpose is not achieved. Can not do it. The stretching ratio is 0.6 (1
+drowning) ~ 1,3 (1+m), the tonal effect of different shades of light and light can be obtained for the first time.

In the method of the present invention, the pre-combustion processing may be performed under normal processing conditions, but for example, the heater temperature may be 150 to 240.
℃, false twist number (@/m) is 23000 to 33 as twist coefficient
000, and the overfeed rate is preferably -10% to +5%.

The multifilament used in the present invention, consisting of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are undyable with ionic dyes and highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are dyeable with ionic dyes, is a multifilament spun from the same nozzle pack. Alternatively, the threads may be spun using separate nozzle packs and individually wound into cheese, and the threads may be aligned. In the present invention, even when the above-mentioned simply drawn threads are used, a shrinkage difference is given between these filaments by the relaxation heat treatment process, and the tension that acts during stretching is different, and furthermore, the migration effect due to false twisting causes mixing. The fineness is very good.

The highly oriented undrawn ester-based filaments that are undyable with ionic dyes and used to obtain the processed polyester yarn of the present invention are ester-based highly oriented undrawn filaments that do not have ionic dye dyeing chambers in their molecules. On the other hand, highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are dyeable with ionic dyes are polyester yarns with improved dyeability that have sulfonate groups in the form of metal salts in the polyester main chain or at the ends, and are dyeable with cationic dyes. A general term for polyester filaments that can be dyed with ionic dyes.

The cross-sectional shape of both filaments may be round, irregularly shaped, or hollow.

In the present invention, birefringence (mu) is measured using a polarizing microscope-compensator.

Effect The polyester processed yarn of the first invention has a polyester crimped filament F1 that is undyable with ionic dyes and has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction, and a polyester crimped filament F1 that is dyeable with ionic dyes that has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction. Preester crimped filament F
are mixed at a weight ratio of 1=5 to 5:l, and the phases of the thick parts of both polyester crimped filaments F and F2 are uneven, so they exhibit a flame effect similar to that of wool fibers, and disperse dyes By dyeing them separately with ionic dyes, dark dyed thick parts and light dyed details appear alternately on the surface of the yarn, creating a deep color tone due to the multicolor effect of ink dyeing and fullness due to crimp and yarn length difference. It is a yarn with excellent appearance and texture.

Furthermore, in the second invention, the birefringence is 20XIO~
80 x 10 polyester highly oriented undrawn filaments that are undyable to ionic dyes, and highly oriented polyester undrawn filaments that are dyeable to ionic dyes and have a birefringence as low as 65 x 10-3. Mix 30
% or more relaxation rate X%, then 0.6
By stretching (1+ side) to 1°3 (1+H) and further performing false twisting, uneven thickness is formed on each filament, creating a dark and light tone effect, a multicolor ink dye effect, and a bulging effect. A polyester-based processed yarn with excellent properties can be obtained.

EXAMPLE First, an example of the PI8 manufacturing process of the polyester processed yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. Highly oriented undrawn multifilament blend yarn (1) made by simultaneously spinning and winding polyester that is undyable with ionic dyes and polyester that is dyeable with ionic dyes at high speed from the same nozzle pack.
is pulled out from the package (21), and the heater (
4) Relaxation heat treatment (heat shrinkage treatment) is performed to create a shrinkage difference between highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are undyable to ionic dyes and highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments that are dyeable to ionic dyes. Express. Next, the draw ratio (DR) is 0.6 (1+) 1.3 (1+ 100) between roller (5) and roller (6).
The polyester filament, which is undyable to ionic dyes, and the polyester filament, which is dyeable to ionic dyes, are stretched in a double box to give uneven thickness. The phase of the thick part is made irregular, the spindle (8) passes through the heater (7), false twisting is applied, the roller (9) takes up, and the winding roller αO winds up the cheese α force. When performing the relaxation heat treatment using the heater (4), it is preferable to use a non-contact type heater in order to obtain stable running since the treatment is performed at a high relaxation rate.

Next, an embodiment based on the steps shown in FIG. 3 will be described.

Polyethylene terephthalate (polyethylene terephthalate) obtained by simultaneously spinning polyethylene terephthalate and a polyethylene terephthalate copolyester made by copolymerizing 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate components from the same nozzle pack:
153 d/24f (birefringence 47XIO"") and the polyethylene terephthalate copolyester: 7
A highly oriented undrawn multifilament mixed yarn with 7d/12f (birefringence index 33×10) was processed in the process shown in FIG. 3 under the following conditions.

Temperature of heater (4) 180℃ Heater (7) 170℃ Number of false twists Z 1850 T/M roller (9)
The processed yarn obtained at a surface speed W of 211 m/rrlin was woven with a warp density of 6 gk/I)t, a weft density of 263~, and a texture of F2 twill. After refining the gray fabric with Rizix,
Only the filament that can be dyed with a cationic dye was dyed blue with a cationic dye of Eisen Cachilon Blue CD-FBLH (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.), and the thick part of the filament was dyed dark blue and the details were dyed pale blue. Next, when I dyed it yellow with a disperse dye of Dianic Yellow L [-5E (Mitsubishi Kasei), the majority of the filament was dyed in a deep tone, and the details were dyed in a pale yellow, resulting in a mixture of blue and yellow.
It has a heathered tone with a mixture of shades of blue and yellow, but when you look at it, it looks like a uniform deep green color tone.
A preferable ink-dyed multicolored drain was obtained. In addition, the fabric had an excellent texture with a sense of fullness. One thread was taken out from this fabric, and in order to examine the phase of the thick part of each filament, one end of the thread was fixed, and a load of 1/10 g/d was applied radially from the center of an arc drawn from each filament at IH intervals. The position of the thick part was determined for each filament and marked on graph paper. As a result, it was confirmed that the positions of the thick parts of each filament, especially the positions of the large parts of the polyethylene terephthalate filament and the positions of the thick parts of the polyethylene terephthalate-based coiled ester filaments, were clearly uneven.

Effect of Komei As mentioned above, the polyester processed yarn of the present invention is a mixture of crimped polyester filaments that are undyable to ionic dyes and crimped polynisder filaments that are dyeable to ionic dyes. Each of the filaments has uneven thickness, the thick part is dyed once and the details are light dyed, and the positions of these thick parts are irregular, so there is a winding that shows 41 different dyeing behaviors on the yarn surface. Shrunken filaments appear, producing an extremely high multi-color mixed fiber effect with a marbled or heathered tone, a deep color tone effect, and a fluffy texture similar to that of a lined fiber product. It is an excellent yarn for weaving and knitting.

[Brief Description of the Drawings] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram conceptually showing the characteristics of the processed polyester yarn of the present invention, Figure 2 is a schematic diagram for comparison with the processed polyester yarn of the present invention, and Figure 3 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the polyester-based processed yarn of the present invention. Fl... Polyester filament undyable with ionic dyes, F2... Polyester filament dyeable with ionic dyes, Flag F2 a... Thick section, Flb. F2b...Details, Figure 1 Figure 2

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A polyester crimped filament F_1 that has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction and is undyable with ionic dyes, and a polyester crimped filament F_1 that has uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction and is dyeable with ionic dyes. The polyester crimped filament F_2 is mixed with the polyester crimped filament F_2 at a weight ratio of 1:5 to 5:1, and the polyester crimped filament F_
A processed polyester yarn characterized in that the phases of the thick parts of 1 and F_2 are uneven. 2. Birefringence (△n) is 20×10^-^3 to 80×1
0^-^3 polyester-based highly oriented undrawn filaments that are undyable to ionic dyes, and ions whose birefringence (△n) is at least 5 x 10^-^3 lower than the polyester-based highly oriented undrawn filaments. A multifilament made by mixing dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn filaments with a dyeable dye is subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a relaxation rate x (%) of 30% or more to develop a shrinkage difference between the two filaments. , and a method for producing a polyester-based textured yarn, which comprises stretching at a stretching ratio DR shown in the following formula, and then false-twisting the yarn. DR=0.6(1+(x/100))~1.3(1+(
x/100))