JPH11158750A - Highly twisted textile fabric having mandarina silkworm pongee texture and feeling - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a textile fabric having mandarina silkworm pongee texture and feeling which can be given natural ruggedness of mandarina silkworm pongee texture and feelings of crispiness, creakiness and softness at the same time. SOLUTION: This textile fabric having mandarina silkworm pongee texture and feeling is produced by weaving highly twisted yarns which are a mixed yarn made of (A) thermoplastic filaments having a grade of monofilament denier of >=2.0 and (B) thermoplastic filaments having a grade of monofilament denier of <=0.5 (where the weight ratio of the filaments A is in the range of 20-80%) as warps and/or wefts and have 20-400 convex parts C per 1 meter formed by double twisting in the longitudinal direction of the filament groups.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a wild twisted silky twisted woven fabric having a natural feeling of unevenness and having excellent feelings such as a sharp feeling, a feeling of creaking, and a soft feeling.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various yarns have been proposed to impart a natural unevenness to a woven fabric. For example, JP-B-53-27387 and JP-B-53-36051 disclose a thick and thin yarn in which a thermoplastic multifilament undrawn yarn is drawn at a draw ratio equal to or less than a natural drawing ratio to give a thick and thin fiber. In Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-16489 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-16489, the supply amount of the sheath yarn entangled with the core yarn during the fluid processing is intermittently changed to partially form a lump. Has been proposed.

[0003] However, the woven fabric obtained by weaving these processed yarns has a natural feeling of unevenness, but lacks a sharp feeling, a feeling of creaking, and a soft feeling.

A knitted yarn formed from a knot yarn formed by projecting a knot by winding an effect yarn intermittently and strongly around a core yarn also has a problem of lack of sharpness, creaking, and softness, though it has a feeling of unevenness. was there.

[0005] On the other hand, if weaving is performed using a strong twisted yarn, a woven fabric having a crisp or squishy feel can be obtained. However, since the strong twisted yarn has a uniform appearance, the fabric has a natural feeling of unevenness. There is a problem of lack of softness, and conventional yarns cannot simultaneously impart natural unevenness, sharpness, creaking, and softness to a woven fabric obtained by weaving.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems and provides a woven fabric obtained by weaving simultaneously with the natural unevenness of silkworm pongee and the sharpness, creaking, and softness. It is a technical task to provide a wild silkworm pongee-like fabric that can be produced.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have found that the single yarn fineness is 2.0
The mixed filament yarn consisting of the thick filament yarn group of denier or more and the fine filament yarn group of 0.5 denier or less is strongly twisted, and the strong twisted yarn that has formed a uniform single twist is further twisted to reduce the protrusion caused by double twisting. If it is expressed, in addition to the natural unevenness of wild silkworm pongee, the fabric obtained by weaving,
It has been found that a soft feeling can be given at the same time.

That is, the present invention provides a thermoplastic filament yarn group (A) in which at least one of the warp and the weft has a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more and a thermoplastic filament yarn group (B) in which the single yarn fineness is 0.5 denier or less. Wherein the weight ratio of the filament yarn group (A) is 20.
Characterized by being a highly twisted yarn having a twist factor of 4 × 10 ⁴ or more, wherein the number of protrusions formed by double twisting in the longitudinal direction of the filament yarn group is 20 to 400 / m. The gist is a strongly twisted fabric.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0010] The wild silk-pong-like strong twisted yarn of the present invention has at least one of a warp and a weft composed of a wild silk-pongee-like strong twisted yarn, and the wild silk-pongee-like strong twisted yarn has a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more. Plastic filament yarn group (A) and single yarn fineness of 0.
This is a high twist yarn made of a blended yarn of a thermoplastic filament yarn group (B) having a denier of 5 deniers or less, and as shown in FIG. 1, 20 to 400 convex portions C formed by double twisting in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. / M.

In order to impart a natural texture of wild silkworm-pong to the woven fabric obtained by weaving, the number of the convex portions C is 20 to 400 /
m is required, and when the number of the convex portions C is less than 20 / m, it is not possible to impart a natural texture of pongee to the woven fabric. Also,
When the number of the convex portions C is more than 400 / m, the number of twists is too large and overtwisting occurs, so that not only the yarn quality is reduced, but also the productivity of the twisting process is reduced, The work efficiency of the weaving preparation process decreases.

The above-mentioned convex portion means that when the heat-set strong twisted yarn is observed under a load of 0.1 g / d, the yarn diameter is not less than 1.7 times the single twisted portion and the single twisted portion. Of the thread diameter of the section
It is a portion that is seven times or more continuous in the longitudinal direction.

The reason why the present invention uses a mixed fiber consisting of a thick filament yarn group (A) having a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more and a fine filament yarn group (B) having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less is a thick yarn. This is for imparting the soft feeling obtained by the fine filament yarn group to the unevenness, sharpness, and creaking feeling of the double twisted portion obtained by twisting the filament yarn group more than ordinary strong twisting.

The thick filament yarn group (A) must have a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more, and the thin filament yarn group (B) must have a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less. If the single-filament fineness of the thick filament yarn group (A) is less than 2.0 denier, sufficient feeling of sharpness and creaking cannot be obtained. The fineness of the single filament of the fine filament yarn group (B) is
In order to obtain a sufficient soft feeling, it must be 0.5 denier or less.

In particular, the reason for using the filament yarn group (A) having a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more and the filament yarn group (B) having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less in the present invention is that the yarn group in which these yarn groups are mixed is used. When twisted yarns, especially strong twists with a twist coefficient of 4 × 10 ⁴ or more, a phenomenon that many filament yarns (B) having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less are present in the outer layer of the yarn is observed. This is because a soft feeling can be obtained in spite of being a strong twist yarn, in addition to a sharp feeling and a creaking feeling.

In the present invention, a warp yarn or a weft yarn is constituted by a strongly twisted yarn obtained by blending the filament yarn group (A) and the filament yarn group (B) and then twisting. In this case, the weight ratio of the filament yarn group (A) is 20 to 80%.
Must be. If the weight ratio is less than 20%,
Compared with the filament yarn group (A), the twisting torque is less likely to be generated, and the percentage of filaments is smaller. The number of twists must be increased in order to generate double twist. Worse, enough shari,
The feeling of creaking cannot be obtained. When the weight ratio of the filament yarn group (A) is 80% or more, the ratio of the filament yarn group (B) is too small, and the soft feeling is insufficient. As the fiber mixing method, an interlace method using air confounding, an electrostatic fiber opening method, or the like can be used.

Next, the strongly twisted yarn of the present invention having 20 to 400 protrusions / m formed by double twisting is twisted with a twist number of 4 × 10 ⁴ or more on a twisting machine. Then, it can be obtained by performing a heat treatment in a relaxed state while developing a convex portion by double twist. The twist coefficient K is a numerical value obtained from the total fineness D of the supplied yarn and the number of twists T by an expression of K = T × D ^1/2 . For a yarn having a twist coefficient K as large as 4 × 10 ⁴ or more, twisting the yarn alone results in a large twist torque, and it is difficult to directly supply the yarn to the weaving process.
Protrusions due to double twist are not sufficiently formed. Therefore, it is necessary to reduce the twisting torque and improve the weaving property by performing a heat treatment while developing a convex portion due to double twisting in a relaxed state after the twisting yarn on the twisting machine, and improve the weaving property and make it a strong twisted yarn that can express the wild silkworm pongee tone. it can. In other words, in a strong twisted yarn having a double twist, the double twist disappears or increases depending on the tension state, and when the double twist disappears due to excessive tension, the twisting torque rapidly increases. Therefore, it is necessary to control the tension sufficiently in the heat treatment.

The heater used for the relaxation heat treatment is desirably a short heater because it is attached to the twisting machine, and reduces the torque to a value that can be supplied to the weaving process. However, a contact dry heater is preferred from this point.

The conditions for the relaxation heat treatment are as follows: the overfeed rate is 10 to 50%, and the heater temperature varies depending on the yarn speed.
It is preferable that the temperature be 0 ° C. or higher and the softening point or lower.

The present invention relates to a woven fabric using the above-mentioned strong twist yarn for at least one of a warp and a weft. In order to give the obtained woven fabric a natural unevenness and feel of wild silkworm pongee, scouring,
It is preferable to perform each step such as dyeing and finishing.

[0021] In particular, when the material is a polyester fiber, it is preferable to carry out a weight reduction process. The weight loss rate is determined in consideration of the feeling of the final product, such as a crispness, a squeaky feeling and a softness.
It is preferably at least 0%, particularly preferably at least 30%.

[0022]

In the woven fabric of the present invention, a yarn obtained by blending filament groups having different single-filament finenesses and then strongly twisting is used as at least one of a warp and a weft. Since this yarn is mixed before twisting, the yarn enters the twisting process in a state where filaments having different single yarn deniers are mixed as compared with a case where the yarn is simply drawn and twisted. In the twisting process, the twisting torque is reduced. Filaments with a large single-filament size that become stronger tend to be bundled together and gather at the core, and filaments with a small single-filament size tend to form a sheath portion. A soft feeling can be obtained by filaments having a small single-fiber fineness relatively gathered on the surface. In addition, this strong twisted yarn can express natural unevenness, sharpness, and creaking due to the number of twists and the presence of double twists.

[0023]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. The evaluation in the examples was performed by the following method.

(1) Number of convex portions A sample having a yarn length of 25 cm was collected by applying a load of 0.1 g / d to the strongly twisted yarn after heat setting, and the sample was observed with a loupe. A portion that was 1.7 times or more of the twisted portion and 1.7 times or more the yarn diameter of the single twisted portion and was continuous in the longitudinal direction was evaluated as a convex portion, and the number (pieces / m) was counted.

(2) Hand feeling Evaluation of the woven fabric after finishing processing was evaluated by handling for sharpness, creaking, softness, and wild silkworm-like texture. ：: Excellent. Δ: Inferior. ×: Very poor. In four stages.

Example 1 Polyester filament 100d / 48f (single yarn fineness: 2.1 denier) and polyester filament 110d
/ 336f (single yarn fineness: 0.33 denier) was air-blended at 40 pieces / m using a DuPont JD-1 nozzle and then double twisted by Murata Machine Co., Ltd. as shown in FIG. A first delivery roller 7 and a second delivery roller 9 are provided in the yarn running space between the .310-C type guide roller and the friction drum, and the effective length is 30c.
m of an electrically heated contact heater 8
Spindle speed 1.0 × 10 ⁴ rpm and twist number 4200t /
m (twisting coefficient 60864), twisting of S twist (and Z twist), followed by 30% of overfeed rate between the first delivery roller and the second delivery roller, and heater temperature of 180
S twisted strong twisted yarn and Z having a wild silky pongee appearance by heat treatment at ℃
A twisted twisted yarn was obtained.

The obtained S-twisted and Z-twisted yarns are used as weft yarns, and the polyester yarn is used as warp yarns.
The warp density is 137 using 8f 350 t / mS twisted yarn.
A plain weave with two wefts (2.5 S / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 73 / 2.54 cm) (we alternately use two S twisted yarns and two Z twisted yarns) was woven in a water jet loom.

The obtained woven fabric is dyed and finished in the order of scouring / relaxation-preset-alkaline treatment (weight reduction rate 30%)-dyeing-final set according to the usual method of polyester fiber, and A strongly twisted woven fabric was obtained.

Example 2 Polyester filament 150d / 72f (single yarn fineness: 2.1 denier) and polyester filament 55d /
Except that 168f (single fiber fineness 0.33 denier) was used and the number of twists was 4000 t / m (twist coefficient 57271), a wild silkworm-like strong twisted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

Comparative Example 1 A strongly twisted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that two polyester filaments 100d / 48f (single yarn fineness: 2.1 denier) were supplied and air-entangled. .

Comparative Example 2 A strongly twisted fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that two polyester filaments 110d / 336f (single yarn fineness: 0.33 denier) were supplied and air-entangled. .

Comparative Example 3 Polyester filament 100d / 72f (single yarn fineness 1.4 denier) and polyester filament 110d
A strongly twisted fabric of Comparative Example 3 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that / 336f (single yarn fineness: 0.33 denier) was used.

Comparative Example 4 Polyester Filament 100d / 48f (Single Yarn Fineness 2.1 Denier) and Polyester Filament 100d
A strongly twisted fabric of Comparative Example 4 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that / 144f (single yarn fineness: 0.7 denier) was used.

Comparative Example 5 Example 1 was repeated except that the number of twists was changed to 2700 t / m.
In the same manner as in Example 1, a strongly twisted woven fabric of Comparative Example 5 was obtained.

Comparative Example 6 After winding at 1500 t / m, which is the same as the number of twists of a general strong twisted yarn, a SE type vacuum setting device manufactured by Marui Co.
A strongly twisted fabric of Comparative Example 6 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the heat setting was performed at 45 ° C. for 45 minutes.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the physical properties and woven fabric properties of the strong twisted yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6.

[0037]

[Table 1]

As is evident from Table 1, the strong twisted yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 have a double twisted convex portion of 116-120.
There were 145 fibers / m, and the woven fabric had a natural wild silky pongee-like unevenness, and had excellent feelings such as a sharp feeling, a creaking feeling, and a soft feeling. On the other hand, single yarn fineness 0.5
Comparative Example 1 in which there is no filament yarn group of denier or less
Has a poor softness and a feeling of wild silkworm pongee surface, and has a fineness of single yarn.
In Comparative Example 2 in which no filament yarn group having a denier of 0 denier or more was present, the number of convex portions due to double twisting was small, and the sharpness, the feeling of creaking, and the surface feeling of a wild silkworm pongee were poor. Further, even in the case of mixed yarns, Comparative Example 3 in which the single-fiber fineness of the large fineness group was less than 2.0 denier was poor in the sharpness, the squeaky feeling, and the wild silkworm-ponged surface feeling, and the single yarn of the fine fineness group Comparative Example 4 having a fineness of 0.5 denier or more had poor softness and wild silky pongee-like surface feeling. Comparative Examples 5 and 6, which were ordinary strong twisted yarns and had no double twisted protrusions, did not have sufficient softness, lacked sharpness, and had no wild silky silky surface feel.

[0039]

According to the present invention, the wild silk yarn-like strong twisted yarn fabric of the present invention is a super-strong twisted yarn fabric which exceeds the range of ordinary strong twisted yarn, and has a ratio of 20 to 400 protrusions / m formed by double twisting. It has a natural feeling of unevenness, crispness, and crispness, and has a twist of K4 × 10 ⁴ or more. Many of the following fineness groups are present in the outer layer of the yarn, and a soft feeling can be imparted despite strong twisting.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing one embodiment of a side surface of a wild silky silk-like strong twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing one embodiment of a cross section of a wild silkworm-like strong twisted yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic process diagram showing an embodiment of the apparatus for producing a strong twisted yarn of the silkworm pongee style of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A Filament yarn group having a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more B Filament yarn group having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less C Convex portion of strong twisted yarn 1 Winding body 2 Thread 3 Hollow core 4 Guide guide 5 Spindle disk 6 Balloon guide 7 First Delivery Roller 8 Contact Dry Heater 9 Second Delivery Roller 10 Winding Roller 11 Winding Cheese

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) at least one of a warp and a weft is
A mixed filament consisting of a thermoplastic filament yarn group (A) having a single yarn fineness of 2.0 denier or more and a thermoplastic filament yarn group (B) having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less, the weight of the filament yarn group (A) The ratio is 20 to 80%, and the number of convex portions formed by double twisting in the longitudinal direction is 20 to 400 / m
A wild-twisted silky twisted woven fabric characterized by existing twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 4 × 10 ⁴ or more.