JPH07197354A - Production of knit fabric - Google Patents
Production of knit fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH07197354A JPH07197354A JP35315293A JP35315293A JPH07197354A JP H07197354 A JPH07197354 A JP H07197354A JP 35315293 A JP35315293 A JP 35315293A JP 35315293 A JP35315293 A JP 35315293A JP H07197354 A JPH07197354 A JP H07197354A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- shrinkage
- yarn
- weight
- filament yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title abstract description 56
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 13
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 230000008646 thermal stress Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 19
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 7
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 5
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 208000012886 Vertigo Diseases 0.000 description 4
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 3
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002745 absorbent Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003795 desorption Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、防風性を要求される外
衣に用いることができる編地の製造方法に関するもので
ある。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric which can be used for outer garments requiring windproof properties.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】従来より、編地は、織物に比べると密度
が高くないため、通気性がよく防風性に乏しいため防風
性を要求される外衣としてはあまり用いられていない。
しかし、柔軟性を持つ編地を外衣として用いるために、
防風性を備えた編地を製造する方法として、編地に樹脂
コーティングを施す方法やを高密度の編地を製造する方
法があった。2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a knitted fabric is not used as an outer garment which is required to have a windproof property because it has a high air permeability and a poor windproof property because it has a lower density than a woven fabric.
However, in order to use a flexible knitted fabric as an outer garment,
As a method for producing a knitted fabric having windproof properties, there have been a method of applying a resin coating to the knitted fabric and a method of producing a high-density knitted fabric.
【０００３】高密度の編地を製造する方法としては、編
密度を高くする方法、あるいは高収縮と低収縮の２種の
フィラメントによる複合糸を用いて製編した後、収縮処
理を施す方法等があった。As a method for producing a high-density knitted fabric, a method of increasing the knitting density, a method of knitting using a composite yarn of two kinds of filaments of high shrinkage and low shrinkage, and then performing shrinkage treatment, etc. was there.
【０００４】[0004]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】上記の従来法のうち、
編地に樹脂コーティングを施す方法では、樹脂コーティ
ングされた編地は、風合いが硬く、蒸れ感があり、着用
時にスレ音が気になるという問題があった。また、樹脂
コーティング加工のために工程を増やさなければならな
いという欠点があった。Of the above-mentioned conventional methods,
In the method of applying a resin coating to the knitted fabric, the resin-coated knitted fabric has a problem in that it has a hard texture, has a stuffy feeling, and has a jarring noise when worn. In addition, there is a drawback that the number of steps must be increased for processing the resin coating.
【０００５】編密度を高くする方法では、密度に限界が
あり、また、特殊な編機が必要となり生産効率上問題が
あった。また、高収縮と低収縮の２種のフィラメントに
よる複合糸を用いて製編した後、収縮処理を施す方法で
は、得られた編地の風合いが硬く、吸放湿性が小さいた
め蒸れる等の問題があった。In the method of increasing the knitting density, there is a limit to the density and a special knitting machine is required, which causes a problem in production efficiency. In addition, in a method in which a knitted fabric is knitted using a composite yarn composed of two types of filaments having high shrinkage and low shrinkage, and then subjected to shrinkage treatment, the texture of the obtained knitted fabric is hard and moisture absorption and desorption are small, so that problems such as steaming was there.
【０００６】本発明は、上記問題に鑑み、編地の密度が
十分高く防風性を有し、しかも風合いが柔軟で蒸れ感の
ない編地の製造方法を提供することを目的とする。In view of the above problems, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a knitted fabric having a sufficiently high density of the knitted fabric, windproof property, soft texture and no stuffiness.
【０００７】[0007]
【課題を解決するための手段】すなわち、本発明は、沸
水収縮率が２０％以上、最大熱応力が0.４ｇ／ｄ以上、
かつピーク温度が１００℃以上であるポリエステル系フ
ィラメント糸２０〜７０重量％とセルロース系ステープ
ル８０〜３０重量％とからなる複合糸を少なくとも５０
重量％含有するように製編し、収縮処理を施して、カバ
ーファクターＣＦ＝０.6５以上とすることを特徴とする
編地の製造方法に関するものである。That is, according to the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage is 20% or more, the maximum thermal stress is 0.4 g / d or more,
Also, at least 50 composite threads composed of 20 to 70% by weight of polyester filament yarn having a peak temperature of 100 ° C. or higher and 80 to 30% by weight of cellulose staple are used.
The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric, which is characterized in that a cover factor CF is 0.65 or more by knitting so as to contain the material in a weight percentage and performing shrinkage treatment.
【０００８】また、沸水収縮率が２０％以上、最大熱応
力が0.４ｇ／ｄ以上、かつピーク温度が１００℃以上で
あるポリエステル系フィラメント糸２０〜７０重量％と
セルロース系ステープル８０〜３０重量％とからなる複
合糸を少なくとも５０重量％含有するように製編し、収
縮処理を施して、通気度を４０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ 2・ｓｅｃ
以下とすることを特徴とする編地の製造方法に関するも
のである。20-70% by weight of polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more, a maximum thermal stress of 0.4 g / d or more, and a peak temperature of 100 ° C. or more and 80-30% by weight of cellulose staple. % Of the composite yarn is knitted so as to contain at least 50% by weight, and subjected to shrinkage treatment so that the air permeability is 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec.
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric characterized by the following.
【０００９】本発明において、沸水収縮率の測定方法は
次にとおりである。糸条の一端を固定し、他端に糸条の
１／１０ｇ／ｄの初荷重を吊し、正しく５００ｍｍの間
隔を図って両端に印を付け、初荷重を取り、これを沸騰
水中に３０分間浸漬した後、取り出して軽く吸取紙また
は布で水を切り、水平状態で自然乾燥後、再び初荷重を
掛けて前記両端間の長さＬを計り、下式により沸水収縮
率を算出する。 Ａ＝〔（５００−Ｌ）／５００〕×１００ ここで、Ａは沸水収縮率（％）とする。また、本発明に
おいて、最大熱応力、ピーク温度は以下の値とする。カ
ネボウエンジニアリング社製のＫＥＴ−１型熱応力測定
器を用い、試料に０.0１５ｇ／ｄの初荷重を掛け、昇温
速度１８０秒／３００℃で昇温を行って熱応力曲線を得
て、この曲線の最大を示す値をもって最大熱応力とす
る。また、前記の最大熱応力の測定において、熱応力が
最大値を示すときの温度をもってピーク温度とする。In the present invention, the method for measuring the boiling water shrinkage is as follows. Fix one end of the thread, hang the initial load of 1/10 g / d of the thread on the other end, mark the both ends with a proper 500 mm interval, take the initial load, and put this in boiling water for 30 After soaking for a minute, the product is taken out, lightly drained with absorbent paper or cloth, naturally dried in a horizontal state, and again subjected to an initial load to measure the length L between the both ends, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio is calculated by the following formula. A = [(500-L) / 500] × 100 Here, A is the boiling water shrinkage rate (%). Further, in the present invention, the maximum thermal stress and the peak temperature have the following values. A KET-1 type thermal stress measuring instrument manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. was used to apply an initial load of 0.015 g / d to the sample, and the temperature was raised at a heating rate of 180 seconds / 300 ° C. to obtain a thermal stress curve, The value showing the maximum of this curve is the maximum thermal stress. In the measurement of the maximum thermal stress, the temperature at which the thermal stress shows the maximum value is defined as the peak temperature.
【００１０】本発明において使用するポリエステル系フ
ィラメント糸は、沸水収縮率が２０％以上、最大熱応力
が0.４ｇ／ｄ以上、かつピーク温度が１００℃以上であ
る必要がある。The polyester filament yarn used in the present invention must have a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more, a maximum thermal stress of 0.4 g / d or more, and a peak temperature of 100 ° C. or more.
【００１１】ポリエステル系フィラメント糸の沸水収縮
率は、２０％以上であることが必要であり、特に３０〜
５０％であるのが好ましい。沸水収縮率が２０％未満に
なると、本発明において使用するセルロース系ステープ
ルとの収縮差が少なくなって、編地の表面に主としてセ
ルロース系ステープルを顕現させることが困難になる。The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester filament yarn must be 20% or more, and particularly 30 to
It is preferably 50%. When the boiling water shrinkage is less than 20%, the shrinkage difference from the cellulose-based staple used in the present invention becomes small, and it becomes difficult to reveal the cellulose-based staple mainly on the surface of the knitted fabric.
【００１２】ポリエステル系フィラメント糸の最大熱応
力は、0.４ｇ／ｄ以上であることが必要であり、特に
０.5〜０.7ｇ／ｄであることが好ましい。最大熱応力が
0.４ｇ／ｄ未満になると、編地に十分な収縮を与えるこ
とができず、その表面に主としてセルロース系ステープ
ルを顕現させることが困難になる。製編した後、収縮処
理によりポリエステル系フィラメント糸を十分に収縮さ
せるためには、沸水収縮率だけでなく、加熱されたとき
に収縮する力である熱応力も十分に大きいことが必要で
ある。The maximum thermal stress of the polyester filament yarn needs to be 0.4 g / d or more, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 0.7 g / d. The maximum thermal stress
If the amount is less than 0.4 g / d, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk, and it becomes difficult to reveal the cellulose staple mainly on the surface. In order to sufficiently shrink the polyester filament yarn by the shrinking treatment after knitting, not only the boiling water shrinkage rate but also the thermal stress that is the force of shrinking when heated is required to be sufficiently large.
【００１３】ポリエステル系フィラメント糸のピーク温
度は、１００℃以上である必要がある。ピーク温度が１
００℃未満であると、低温で収縮する恐れがあり、収縮
工程以外の工程、たとえば製編工程等で収縮し、ポリエ
ステル系フィラメント糸の特性が収縮工程に至るまでに
低下したり、染色加工工程等において編地にシワを発生
させる恐れがあるので好ましくない。ここでピーク温度
とは熱応力が最大値を示すときの温度である。The peak temperature of the polyester filament yarn must be 100 ° C. or higher. Peak temperature is 1
If the temperature is less than 00 ° C, there is a risk of shrinkage at a low temperature, shrinkage occurs in a process other than the shrinkage process, such as a knitting process, and the properties of the polyester-based filament yarn are reduced until the shrinkage process or the dyeing process process. It is not preferable because it may cause wrinkles in the knitted fabric. Here, the peak temperature is the temperature at which the thermal stress shows the maximum value.
【００１４】本発明において使用するポリエステル系フ
ィラメント糸は、前述した三条件を満足することが必要
である。例えば、沸水収縮率が４０％であっても最大熱
応力値が0.４ｇ／ｄ未満であると、編地に十分な収縮を
与えることができない。また、最大熱応力値が0.４ｇ／
ｄ以上であっても沸水収縮率が２０％未満であると、編
地に十分な収縮を与えることができない。すなわち、本
発明の目的とする収縮を編地に与えるには、従来の目安
であった沸水収縮率だけでは不十分であり、沸水収縮率
と最大熱応力値との両者が特定範囲であることが必要な
のである。The polyester filament yarn used in the present invention is required to satisfy the above three conditions. For example, even if the boiling water shrinkage is 40%, if the maximum thermal stress value is less than 0.4 g / d, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk. Also, the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4 g /
If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 20% even if it is d or more, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk. That is, in order to impart the shrinkage targeted by the present invention to the knitted fabric, the boiling water shrinkage ratio, which has been a conventional guideline, is not sufficient, and both the boiling water shrinkage ratio and the maximum thermal stress value are in a specific range. Is necessary.
【００１５】以上のごときポリエステル系フィラメント
糸は、ある特定のポリエステル重合体を溶融紡糸して得
ることができる。すなわち、エチレングリコールとテレ
フタル酸の合計が８５モル％以上であり、イソフタル酸
等が１５モル％以下よりなる三元共重合体ポリエステル
を使用して得ることができる。The polyester filament yarn as described above can be obtained by melt spinning a specific polyester polymer. That is, it can be obtained by using a terpolymer polyester in which the total of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid is 85 mol% or more and isophthalic acid and the like is 15 mol% or less.
【００１６】本発明において使用するセルロース系ステ
ープルとしては、綿・麻・絹・毛・レーヨン・キュプラ
等の天然繊維が挙げられる。これらのうちでも綿は、風
合い等が良いため好ましい。Examples of the cellulose staple used in the present invention include natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, silk, wool, rayon and cupra. Of these, cotton is preferable because it has a good texture.
【００１７】本発明は、前記ポリエステル系フィラメン
ト糸２０〜７０重量％とセルロース系ステープル８０〜
３０重量％とからなる複合糸を使用する。複合糸中のポ
リエステル系フィラメント糸が２０重量％未満になると
編地に十分なハリ、コシを与えることができなくなるの
で好ましくない。一方、複合糸中のポリエステル系フィ
ラメント糸が７０重量％を越えると得られる編地の表面
にポリエステル系フィラメント糸が多く顕現する恐れが
生じるため好ましくない。In the present invention, 20 to 70% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 80 to 70% of the cellulose staple are used.
A composite yarn consisting of 30% by weight is used. If the content of the polyester-based filament yarn in the composite yarn is less than 20% by weight, it is not possible to impart sufficient elasticity and stiffness to the knitted fabric, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the content of the polyester-based filament yarn in the composite yarn exceeds 70% by weight, a large amount of the polyester-based filament yarn may appear on the surface of the obtained knitted fabric, which is not preferable.
【００１８】また、複合糸の作成方法としては、前記ポ
リエステル系フィラメント糸とセルロース系ステープル
とを、混繊・交絡および／または交撚・精紡交撚等すれ
ばよい。混繊・交絡方法は公知の混繊・交絡糸の製造方
法によって適切な条件を選択することにより達成され
る。具体的には、流体交絡付与装置、例えばタスラン加
工ノズルやインターレース加工ノズルを用いて達成され
る。交撚方法も公知の交撚糸の製造方法によればよい。
精紡交撚に関しては、フィラメント糸を芯にしてこの周
囲をセルロース系ステープルで被覆した精紡交撚糸の作
り方として、フィラメント糸とセルロース系ステープル
粗糸を精紡段階で複合させるリング精紡長短複合式等が
ある。As a method for producing the composite yarn, the polyester filament yarn and the cellulosic staple may be mixed and entangled and / or twisted and spun and twisted. The mixed fiber / entanglement method can be achieved by selecting appropriate conditions according to a known method for producing mixed fiber / entangled yarn. Specifically, it is achieved by using a fluid entanglement imparting device, for example, a Taslan processing nozzle or an interlace processing nozzle. The twisting method may be a known twisted yarn manufacturing method.
As for the fine spinning mixed twist, as a method of making a fine spinning mixed twisted yarn in which a filament yarn is used as a core and the periphery thereof is covered with a cellulose staple, a ring fine spinning long / short composite in which a filament yarn and a cellulosic staple roving are combined in a fine spinning stage There are formulas.
【００１９】得られた複合糸を使用して従来公知の編機
にて製編するが、複合糸は、編地中に少なくとも５０重
量％以上含有されている必要がある。複合糸の量が５０
重量％未満になると、編地に十分な収縮を与えることが
できないので好ましくない。編地の編組織は従来公知の
種々のものを任意に採用することができる。また、編地
の経密度及び緯密度は、４０〜６０コース及び２０〜４
０ウェール程度のものでよい。The obtained composite yarn is knitted by a conventionally known knitting machine, but the composite yarn must be contained in the knitted fabric in an amount of at least 50% by weight or more. The amount of composite yarn is 50
If it is less than 10% by weight, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk, which is not preferable. As the knitting structure of the knitted fabric, various conventionally known knitting structures can be arbitrarily adopted. The warp density and the weft density of the knitted fabric are 40 to 60 courses and 20 to 4
It may be about 0 wale.
【００２０】製編した後、熱処理による収縮処理を施し
てポリエステル系フィラメント糸を収縮させ、本発明の
編地を得る。熱処理は、乾熱でも湿熱でも、又それらの
併用でもよく、できるだけ張力を掛けず、繊維の持つ収
縮力が最大限に発揮されて均一に熱処理されればよい。
特に湿熱処理の場合には、９０〜１３０℃の浴中でビー
ティングや液噴射、揉みなどを行い収縮を助長すること
が好ましい。すると織編物の表面はセルロース系ステー
プルでカバーされ、ポリエステル系フィラメント糸は内
部で織編物にハリ、コシを与え、風合い、外観ともに優
れた本発明の織編物を得る。After knitting, shrinkage treatment by heat treatment is performed to shrink the polyester filament yarn to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention. The heat treatment may be dry heat, wet heat, or a combination thereof, as long as the tension is not applied as much as possible, and the shrinkage force of the fiber is maximized and the heat treatment is performed uniformly.
Particularly in the case of moist heat treatment, it is preferable to promote shrinking by beating, jetting a liquid, rubbing, etc. in a bath at 90 to 130 ° C. Then, the surface of the woven or knitted material is covered with the cellulose-based staple, and the polyester-based filament yarn gives the woven or knitted material firmness and elasticity inside, so that the woven or knitted material of the present invention excellent in texture and appearance is obtained.
【００２１】収縮処理を施した後は、分散染料や酸性染
料等を用いて、従来公知の方法で染色を行ったり、ある
いは従来公知の仕上げ加工を行ってもよい。After the shrinking treatment, a disperse dye, an acid dye or the like may be used for dyeing by a conventionally known method, or a conventionally known finishing process may be performed.
【００２２】前記糸条を用いて製編し、収縮処理を施し
た編地は、下式で計算したカバーファクターＣＦが０.6
５以上であるのが望ましい。ＣＦ＝１／Ｌ・Ｍ1/2ここ
でＬは編地の１ループの平均長さ（ｃｍ）、Ｍは仕上げ
後の綿番手とする。The knitted fabric knitted using the above yarn and subjected to shrinkage treatment has a cover factor CF of 0.6 calculated by the following formula.
It is preferably 5 or more. CF = 1 / L · M 1/2 where L is the average length (cm) of one loop of the knitted fabric, and M is the cotton count after finishing.
【００２３】前記糸条を用いて製編し、収縮処理を施し
た編地の通気度は４０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓｅｃ以下であ
るのが望ましい。４０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ2 ・ｓｅｃを越える
と防風性を備えているとはいいがたい。The air permeability of the knitted fabric knitted using the above yarn and subjected to shrinkage treatment is preferably 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec or less. If it exceeds 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec, it cannot be said to have windproof properties.
【００２４】[0024]
【作用】本発明は、前記特定の沸水収縮率と最大熱応力
およびピーク温度を有するポリエステル系フィラメント
糸とセルロース系ステープルとからなる複合糸を用いて
製編し、収縮処理を施すことによって、密度の高い編地
の製造が可能となったものである。すなわち、前記複合
糸を用いて製編し、収縮処理を施すことによって、ポリ
エステル系フィラメント糸は十分に収縮し、一方セルロ
ース系ステープルは相対的に殆ど変位しない。よって、
ポリエステル系フィラメント糸とセルロース系ステープ
ル間に糸長差が増大し、セルロース系ステープルがポリ
エステル系フィラメント糸を被覆する構造となり、十分
に収縮させた編地の表面にはポリエステル系フィラメン
ト糸が看取されなくなり、セルロース系ステープルが顕
現する。また、ポリエステル系フィラメント糸の収縮に
より、編地の組織は高密度となり、編地にハリ、コシを
付与する。よって、樹脂コーティング等による樹脂で編
地が拘束されず、通気性が保たれ、吸湿性の高いセルロ
ース系ステープルが肌に接し、風合いが良好でムレ感の
ない防風性に優れた編地が得られる。According to the present invention, the density is obtained by knitting using a composite yarn composed of a polyester-based filament yarn having the above-mentioned specific boiling water shrinkage ratio, maximum thermal stress and peak temperature, and cellulose-based staple, and subjecting to shrinkage treatment. It is now possible to manufacture high-quality knitted fabrics. That is, when the composite yarn is knitted and subjected to the shrinking treatment, the polyester filament yarn is sufficiently shrunk, while the cellulose staple is relatively hardly displaced. Therefore,
The difference in yarn length between the polyester filament yarn and the cellulose staple increases, and the cellulose staple becomes a structure that covers the polyester filament yarn, and the polyester filament yarn is observed on the surface of the knitted fabric that has been sufficiently shrunk. It disappears and cellulosic staples become apparent. Further, due to the shrinkage of the polyester-based filament yarn, the structure of the knitted fabric has a high density and gives the knitted fabric elasticity and stiffness. Therefore, the knitted fabric is not restricted by the resin such as resin coating, the air permeability is maintained, the highly hygroscopic cellulose staples come into contact with the skin, and the knitted fabric is excellent in texture and has excellent windproof property without stuffiness. To be
【００２５】[0025]
【実施例】以下、実施例によって本発明を詳しく説明す
るが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではな
い。The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
【００２６】実施例１ エチレングリコール成分とテレフタル酸成分以外にイソ
フタル酸成分を１２モル％添加したポリエステルを溶融
紡糸して、沸水収縮率が２５％、最大熱応力が０.5ｇ／
ｄ、ピーク温度が１３２℃であるポリエステル系フィラ
メント糸を得た。そして、ポリエステル系フィラメント
糸で構成した３０デニール／１２フィラメントのポリエ
ステル系フィラメント糸条を得た。前記３０デニール／
１２フィラメントのポリエステル系フィラメント糸条を
２本引き揃えたものと綿の粗糸を交撚させて、４０Ｓ／
１、エステル／綿の混率が４６／５４、撚り数が２８.5
Ｔ／ｉｎｃｈである複合糸を得た。該複合糸を用いて製
編し、経密度５４コース／ｉｎｃｈ、緯密度３０ウェー
ル／ｉｎｃｈの天竺組織の生機を得た。得られた生機
を、温度１００℃、６０分間の条件で液流染色機を用い
て過酸化水素で晒処理を施した後、温度１３０℃、３０
分間の条件で分散染料によりポリエステル染色を行うと
同時に収縮処理を行った。次いで、水洗、乾燥させて本
発明による編地を得た。また、得た編地の１０ループを
解編した時の１ループの平均長さは０.2４ｃｍ、仕上げ
後の糸条は３４Ｓ／１であった。Example 1 A polyester prepared by adding 12 mol% of an isophthalic acid component in addition to an ethylene glycol component and a terephthalic acid component was melt-spun to have a boiling water shrinkage of 25% and a maximum thermal stress of 0.5 g /
d, a polyester filament yarn having a peak temperature of 132 ° C. was obtained. Then, a polyester filament yarn of 30 denier / 12 filaments composed of the polyester filament yarn was obtained. 30 denier /
Two 12-ply polyester filament yarns are lined up and a cotton roving is mixed and twisted at 40S /
1, ester / cotton mixing ratio 46/54, twist number 28.5
A composite yarn having T / inch was obtained. The composite yarn was used for knitting to obtain a raw fabric with a warp density of 54 courses / inch and a weft density of 30 wales / inch. The resulting raw fabric was exposed to hydrogen peroxide using a jet dyeing machine at a temperature of 100 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then a temperature of 130 ° C., 30
Polyester dyeing was performed with a disperse dye under the condition of 1 minute, and at the same time, shrinkage treatment was performed. Then, it was washed with water and dried to obtain a knitted fabric according to the present invention. The average length of one loop when the 10 loops of the obtained knitted fabric were unknitted was 0.24 cm, and the yarn after finishing was 34S / 1.
【００２７】比較例１ ４４デニール／２４フィラメントのレギュラーポリエス
テル系フィラメント糸条と綿の粗糸とを交撚させて４０
Ｓ／１、エステル／綿の混率が３４／６６である複合糸
を得た以外は、実施例１と同様にして比較例１の編地を
得た。また、得た編地の１０ループを解編した時の１ル
ープの平均長さは０.2６ｃｍ、仕上げ後の糸条は４０Ｓ
／１であった。COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 A regular polyester filament yarn of 44 denier / 24 filament and a cotton roving were twisted together to give 40
A knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a composite yarn having an S / 1 and ester / cotton mixing ratio of 34/66 was obtained. When the 10 loops of the obtained knitted fabric were unknitted, the average length of 1 loop was 0.26 cm, and the finished yarn was 40S.
It was / 1.
【００２８】比較例２ 比較例１で得た編地に樹脂コーティングを施して比較例
２の編地を得た。実施例１、比較例１〜２で得られた編
地の厚さ、カバーファクター、通気度を測定し、その結
果を表１にまとめた。また、得た編地の１０ループを解
編した時の１ループの平均長さは０.2６ｃｍ、仕上げ後
の糸条は３９Ｓ／１であった。Comparative Example 2 The knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 was coated with a resin to obtain a knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2. The thickness, cover factor, and air permeability of the knitted fabrics obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were measured, and the results are summarized in Table 1. Further, when 10 loops of the obtained knitted fabric were unknitted, the average length of 1 loop was 0.26 cm, and the yarn after finishing was 39S / 1.
【００２９】[0029]
【表１】 [Table 1]
【００３０】表１からわかるように、実施例１で得られ
た編地は、加工後の収縮率が高く、加工後の目付が大き
く、厚みがあり、カバーファクターＣＦの値は大きく、
通気度が小さいものであった。また、適度のハリ、コシ
を有し、風合い及び外観の優れたものであった。比較例
１で得られた編地は、加工後の収縮率は低く、加工後の
目付が小さく、厚みのないものであり、カバーファクタ
ーＣＦの値は小さく、通気度の大きいものであった。ま
た、ハリ、コシに欠けるものであり、表面にイラツキが
みられた。比較例２で得られた編地は、加工後の収縮率
が低く、加工後の目付が大きく、厚みがあり、カバーフ
ァクターＣＦの値は小さいが、通気度の小さいものであ
った。しかし、風合いが悪くゴワゴワし、ムレ感があ
り、また表面にイラツキがみられた。As can be seen from Table 1, the knitted fabric obtained in Example 1 has a high shrinkage ratio after processing, has a large basis weight after processing, is thick, and has a large cover factor CF.
The air permeability was small. Moreover, it had moderate elasticity and firmness, and was excellent in texture and appearance. The knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 had a low shrinkage ratio after processing, a small basis weight after processing, and no thickness, a small cover factor CF value, and a large air permeability. In addition, it lacked firmness and elasticity, and was irritated on the surface. The knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 had a low shrinkage rate after processing, a large basis weight after processing, was thick, and had a small cover factor CF value, but had a low air permeability. However, the texture was not good, it was stiff, there was a feeling of stuffiness, and the surface was irritated.
【００３１】[0031]
【発明の効果】以上のごとく、本発明に係る方法により
得られた編地は、ハリ、コシを有し、通気度の小さい高
密度のものである。また、表面の感触がよく、ムレ感も
なく、外観にも優れたものである。よって、衣料用等、
特に防風性が要求される外衣等にも用いることができる
ものである。INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY As described above, the knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention is a high-density knitted fabric having elasticity, stiffness and small air permeability. In addition, the surface feels good, there is no stuffiness, and the appearance is excellent. Therefore, for clothing, etc.
In particular, it can be used for outer garments and the like that require windproof properties.
Claims (2)
0.４ｇ／ｄ以上、かつピーク温度が１００℃以上である
ポリエステル系フィラメント糸２０〜７０重量％とセル
ロース系ステープル８０〜３０重量％とからなる複合糸
を少なくとも５０重量％含有するように製編し、収縮処
理を施して、カバーファクターＣＦ＝０.6５以上とする
ことを特徴とする編地の製造方法。1. The boiling water shrinkage is 20% or more, and the maximum thermal stress is
Knitting to contain at least 50% by weight of a composite yarn composed of 20 to 70% by weight of polyester filament yarn having a peak temperature of 0.4 g / d or more and 100 ° C. or more and 80 to 30% by weight of cellulose staple. Then, a shrinkage treatment is performed to obtain a cover factor CF of 0.65 or more.
0.４ｇ／ｄ以上、かつピーク温度が１００℃以上である
ポリエステル系フィラメント糸２０〜７０重量％とセル
ロース系ステープル８０〜３０重量％とからなる複合糸
を少なくとも５０重量％含有するように製編し、収縮処
理を施して、通気度を４０ｃｍ3 ／ｃｍ 2・ｓｅｃ以下
とすることを特徴とする編地の製造方法。2. The boiling water shrinkage is 20% or more, and the maximum thermal stress is
Knitting to contain at least 50% by weight of a composite yarn composed of 20 to 70% by weight of polyester filament yarn having a peak temperature of 0.4 g / d or more and 100 ° C. or more and 80 to 30% by weight of cellulose staple. Then, a shrinkage treatment is performed so that the air permeability is 40 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec or less.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP35315293A JPH07197354A (en) | 1993-12-28 | 1993-12-28 | Production of knit fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP35315293A JPH07197354A (en) | 1993-12-28 | 1993-12-28 | Production of knit fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH07197354A true JPH07197354A (en) | 1995-08-01 |
Family
ID=18428919
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP35315293A Pending JPH07197354A (en) | 1993-12-28 | 1993-12-28 | Production of knit fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH07197354A (en) |
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002235263A (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-08-23 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Knitted fabric having excellent windproof property and soft feeing, and method for producing the same |
| EP1306475A1 (en) * | 2001-10-18 | 2003-05-02 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Double-face velour fabric articles having improved dynamic insulation performance |
| US6828003B2 (en) | 1999-07-02 | 2004-12-07 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Velour fabric articles having flame retardance and improved dynamic insulation performance |
| US7560399B2 (en) | 1998-08-28 | 2009-07-14 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Multi-layer composite fabric garment |
| JP2014001484A (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2014-01-09 | Eclat Textile Co Ltd | Method for producing windproof knitted fabric and composition of the same |
| KR101498015B1 (en) * | 2013-06-19 | 2015-03-03 | 주식회사 성안 | Knit for protecting against wind |
| JP2016125147A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2016-07-11 | 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社 | Low elastic knitted fabric for water sportswear |
-
1993
- 1993-12-28 JP JP35315293A patent/JPH07197354A/en active Pending
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US7560399B2 (en) | 1998-08-28 | 2009-07-14 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Multi-layer composite fabric garment |
| US6779368B2 (en) | 1999-07-02 | 2004-08-24 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Double-face velour fabric articles having improved dynamic insulation performance |
| US6828003B2 (en) | 1999-07-02 | 2004-12-07 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Velour fabric articles having flame retardance and improved dynamic insulation performance |
| USRE40314E1 (en) * | 1999-07-02 | 2008-05-13 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Velour fabric articles having flame retardance and improved dynamic insulation performance |
| USRE41574E1 (en) * | 1999-07-02 | 2010-08-24 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Velour fabric articles having flame retardance and improved dynamic insulation performance |
| US7829172B2 (en) | 1999-07-02 | 2010-11-09 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Double-face velour fabric articles having improved dynamic insulation performance |
| US8129296B2 (en) | 1999-07-02 | 2012-03-06 | Mmi-Ipco, Llc | Velour fabric articles having improved dynamic insulation performance |
| JP2002235263A (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-08-23 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Knitted fabric having excellent windproof property and soft feeing, and method for producing the same |
| EP1306475A1 (en) * | 2001-10-18 | 2003-05-02 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Double-face velour fabric articles having improved dynamic insulation performance |
| JP2014001484A (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2014-01-09 | Eclat Textile Co Ltd | Method for producing windproof knitted fabric and composition of the same |
| KR101498015B1 (en) * | 2013-06-19 | 2015-03-03 | 주식회사 성안 | Knit for protecting against wind |
| JP2016125147A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2016-07-11 | 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社 | Low elastic knitted fabric for water sportswear |
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