JPH0718067B2 - Alternate twist yarn - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a wool spun yarn-like alternating twisted yarn made of filament yarn.

(Prior Art) Various yarns having bulkiness made of synthetic fiber filament yarn have been conventionally known. For example, a usual false twisted yarn is crimped to make it bulky, and can give a woven or knitted fabric a feeling of volume. However, an ordinary woven or knitted fabric made of false-twisted yarn is woven or knitted in a state in which the bulkiness is reduced due to the tension received by the false-twisted yarn in the knitting and weaving process.
Its bulkiness is inferior to that of a woven or knitted product made of spun yarn. On the other hand, spun yarn differs from filament yarn in that discontinuous short fibers are aligned in the longitudinal direction, [D is the fineness at the spinning position (denier)] Since the fibers are bundled together by twisting, the gap between the short fibers is larger than that of filament yarn, and it is stable and does not stretch against tension and has a suitable tension. It is suitable for bulky clothing because it has a waist. However, spun yarn is complicated in many manufacturing processes, and is not suitable for small lot production.
As consumer preferences in recent years strongly demand the diversification of clothing materials, spun yarn cannot sufficiently meet this demand.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of earnest research to address the above demands, and the purpose of the present invention is to It is an object of the present invention to provide an alternating twisted yarn whose bulkiness is less reduced by the tension received in the weaving and weaving process, and which can give the woven and knitted fabric the tension, waist and bulge like wool spun yarn.

(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention comprises two yarns that are alternately twisted in S and Z, and the two yarns are two or more wound yarns each having a yarn length difference. It is composed of filament yarn with crimp,
While a part of the crimp due to crimping forms slack, a filament yarn with a long yarn length
Z An alternate twisted yarn is characterized by being wound with alternate twists.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The alternate twisted yarn of the present invention is composed of two yarns, and these two yarns are twisted by twists in alternate S and Z directions. Each yarn is composed of filament yarns having two or more crimps having different yarn lengths,
While a part of the crimp due to the crimp forms slack, the filament yarn with a long yarn length changes the filament yarn with a short yarn length into S.
The windings are wound in alternate twisting directions, which are alternating with the Z direction.

The alternate twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the illustrated example. As shown in FIG. 1, the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention comprises a portion I in which two yarns of a yarn A and a yarn B are twisted in the S direction, a portion III in which the two yarns are twisted in the Z direction, and a portion therebetween. It is composed of a non-twisted part II which is a twist direction conversion part of S twist and Z twist. Further, the yarn A has a structure in which a filament yarn A ₁ having a long yarn length is wound with a filament yarn A ₂ having a short yarn length. The S
The filament yarn A ₁ having a long yarn length winds the filament yarn A ₂ having a short yarn length in the Z direction in the portion I twisted in the direction, and the untwisted portion II has no twist and is twisted in the Z direction. In the part III, the filament yarn A ₁ having a long yarn length winds the filament yarn A ₂ having a short yarn length in the S direction. Also,
Similarly, the yarn B has a structure in which a filament yarn B ₁ having a long yarn length is wound with a filament yarn B ₂ having a short yarn length, and a yarn length is long in a portion I twisted in the S direction. filament yarn B ₁ is wound a short filament yarn B ₂ of yarn length in the Z direction, the untwisted portion II has no twist is longer filament yarn B ₁ of yarn length in part III are twisted in the Z-direction yarn A short filament yarn B ₂ is wound in the S direction.

In the example shown in FIG. 1, the filament A and yarn B are twisted in the twisting direction, that is, the twisting direction of the upper twist, and the filament yarn having the long yarn length that constitutes the yarn A or the yarn B is the yarn. An example was shown in which the twist direction in which a filament yarn having a short length was wound, that is, the twist direction of the lower twist was different, but the present invention is not limited to this, and the twist directions of the upper twist and the lower twist are the same. May be

In the present invention, in order to secure a higher stability of the wound structure in which the filament yarn having a long yarn length constituting the yarn A or the yarn B is a filament yarn having a short yarn length, Preferably varies along the longitudinal direction.
The maximum number of twists changing in the longitudinal direction of this yarn is Is preferred, especially Is preferred. Here, D _n is the fineness (denier) of the yarn A or the yarn B, that is, the fineness of the filament yarn constituting the yarn A or the yarn B.

The maximum number of twists of this thread A or thread B is In such a case, the filament yarns having different yarn lengths may be less likely to be bundled, tend to be squeezed when passing through a guide or the like during knitting and weaving, and pills may be generated, impairing the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric.

Further, in order to secure a higher binding property of the yarn A and the yarn B, that is, stability, the number of twists in which the yarn A and the yarn B are twisted, that is, the number of twists of the alternate twist yarn is also the length of the yarn. It is preferable that the direction is changed. The maximum number of twists changed in the longitudinal direction of this yarn is per 1m Is preferred, and particularly preferred Is. Here, D is the fineness (denier) of the yarn A and the yarn B combined, that is, the fineness of the alternately twisted yarn.

The maximum number of twists of this alternating twisted yarn is 1m In this case, the converging property of the yarn A and the yarn B is likely to be lowered, and the yarn is squeezed during the passage of a guide or the like during weaving and knitting, so that one yarn is likely to be snarl. May be reflected in the appearance and spoil its appearance.

In the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention, the yarn A and the yarn B have a structure in which the filament yarns forming them are wound, that is, the axes of the filament yarns intersect each other, so that they are highly aerated and bulky. However, the maximum number of twists of the above-mentioned alternate twisted yarn is The combination of the bulkiness and the converging property of the alternately twisted yarns makes it possible to obtain the same particularly preferable bulges, tensions, waists, as in the above wool spun yarns.
The slime etc. is given.

Furthermore, if the difference in filament length between the filament A and the filament B constituting the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention is increased, the degree of winding and bulkiness are also increased in proportion thereto. In the present invention,
This yarn length difference is preferably 5% or more in order to more effectively prevent the wool spun yarn-like feeling and the twist-off cancellation of the S and Z alternate twists. When the yarn length difference is 5% or more, the filament yarns having a short yarn length and the filament yarns having a long yarn length are not aligned with each other, and the filament yarns effectively cross each other, and the wound filaments The yarns also rise and fall frequently, and the unevenness and bulkiness of the yarns A and B can be more effectively realized.

Next, an example of a method for producing the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention will be described.

First, a high elongation filament yarn A ₁ having a difference in elongation and a low elongation filament yarn A ₂ are aligned and simultaneously false twisted.
High elongation filament yarn A ₁ to low elongation filament yarn A ₂
The false twist process is made 5% longer than that. In a similar manner to this, the filament yarn B ₁ having a high elongation and the filament yarn B ₂ having a low elongation are aligned with another weight and false twisted to obtain a false twisted yarn similar to the above. Next, the false twisted yarns composed of the filament yarns A ₁ and A ₂ and the false twisted yarns composed of the filament yarns B ₁ and B ₂ are separately and intermittently swung, and the two yarns are spun in the longitudinal direction. , Z Alternate torque is applied. Next, when these two yarns are aligned, an alternate twisted yarn is formed by self-twisting with S and Z alternating torques.

Here, as a method of giving a yarn length difference to the filament yarns forming the yarn A or the yarn B, yarns having different supply speeds may be aligned and simultaneously false twisted. Of course, the method of giving the yarn length difference to the filament yarns forming the yarn A and the yarn B may be different.

As a method of intermittently swirling each of the yarn A composed of the filament yarns A ₁ and A ₂ and the yarn B composed of the filament yarns B ₁ and B ₂ , it is preferable to use a fluid twisting device using a swirling flow. Of course, a mechanical spindle may be used to intermittently swirl, but a fluid twisting device is preferable from the viewpoint of durability of the device and a stable swirling number. As a method of intermittently supplying the compressed fluid to the fluid twisting device, there is a method of controlling the supply of the compressed fluid by a solenoid valve or the like. The supply / stop of the supply of the compressed fluid can be controlled by a random signal transmission device such as a micro computer which is input in advance.

In order to improve the bundling property of the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention, it is particularly preferable that the turning directions of the two yarns are the same and the period of fluid supply-supply stop time is matched. However, if you want to make the S and Z twists unclear, the turning directions of the two yarns may be different. Further, the cycle of the supply of the fluid for turning the two yarns-the supply stop time may be different.

Further, in order to give the yarn a turn, in addition to giving the turn intermittently, it is also possible to adopt a method of intermittently changing the yarn in different directions without stopping the turn of the yarn.

Next, an example of the method for producing the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

In FIG. 3, the filament yarn A ₁ having a high elongation and the filament yarn A ₂ having a low elongation are aligned by the guide 3a through the guides 1a and 2a, respectively, and are fed to the spindle 6a via the feed roller 4a and the first heater 5a. A false twisted yarn having a yarn length difference is formed between the filament yarn A ₁ having a high elongation and the filament yarn A ₂ having a low elongation after being supplied and then passed through the first delivery roller 7a. Next, the false twisted yarn is guided to the fluid twisting device 8a through the second heater 12a, and is given intermittent revolving with controlled revolving time, revolving stop time, and revolving-stopping cycle, and high elongation. Of the filament yarn A ₁ is wound around the filament yarn A _{2 of} low elongation to form a yarn A, which is taken up by the second delivery roller 9. On the other hand, the filament yarn B ₁ with high elongation and the filament yarn B ₂ with low elongation are passed through the guides 1b and 2b through the guides 3b, the feed roller 4b and the first heater 5b in different weights in the same manner as above. It is supplied to the spindle 6b and then passes through the first delivery roller 7b and the filament yarn B ₁ with high elongation and the filament yarn B ₂ with low elongation.
A false twisted yarn having a yarn length difference is formed between the two. Next, the false twisted yarn is passed through the second heater 12b and then the fluid twisting device 8
The filament B is guided by b, is given an intermittent turn, and the filament B having a structure in which the filament yarn B ₁ having a high elongation is wound around the filament yarn B ₂ having a low elongation is formed. It is taken up by the second delivery roller 9. The yarn A and the yarn B are taken up and aligned by the second delivery roller 9, and the yarn A and the yarn B are twisted with each other by the self-twisting which acts in the directions in which the torques cancel each other due to the torques of the respective yarns. The alternate twisted yarn of the present invention is formed by being combined and wound on the package 11 by the winding roller 10.

In the above example, the second heater is provided between the first delivery roller and the fluid twisting device, but the second heater may not be provided. As described above, when the second heater is provided to heat the twisted yarn that is intermittently applied, it is possible to increase the intermittent turning torque of the yarn. Therefore, the twisting twisting torque that is applied upstream of this can be increased. In order to obtain a synergistic effect with, the false twisting direction and the intermittent turning direction should be the same direction, and it is more effective to set the heater temperature higher. Further, when the effect of canceling out the torque is desired to be stronger, the false twisting twisting direction and the intermittent turning direction may be different directions, and can be appropriately changed depending on the target yarn.

In the present invention, the yarn length difference is determined by randomly picking the yarn A or the yarn B from the alternate twisted yarn, collecting samples with a yarn length of 50 m from arbitrary 10 points, and untwisting the yarn to obtain 1/10 g / d. of long filament yarns of yarn length under a load line length L ₁ (cm) and a short filament yarn of yarn length the yarn length L ₂ measured (cm), long filament yarn yarn length L ₁ and short filament yarn of It represents the ratio of yarn length L ₁ of the long filament yarn of difference yarn length L ₂ as a percentage, in which the average value was calculated.

Moreover, the number of twists of the yarn A or the yarn B constituting the alternate twisted yarn is measured as follows. When the yarn A or the yarn B is separated from the alternate twisted yarn, it is separated and taken out so that the twist is not adjusted, and the number of twists is arbitrarily set in 10 cm units in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
Measure at 20 points and convert to the number of twists per meter, and take the maximum of these values as the maximum number of twists.

In addition, the number of twists of the alternate twisted yarn is measured at 20 arbitrary points in units of 10 cm in the longitudinal direction and converted into the number of twists per 1 m,
The maximum value of these values is the maximum twist number.

In the present invention, as the filament yarn, for example, multifilament yarn of thermoplastic synthetic fiber such as polyester or polyamide is preferably used.

(Operation) The alternating twisted yarn of the present invention is composed of filament yarns having two crimps each of which has a difference in yarn length, and the crimps are partially slackened by crimping to form a slack. The long filament yarn is formed by winding the filament yarn having a short yarn length with S and Z alternating twists, so that it is not aligned in the longitudinal direction of the filament unlike ordinary filament yarn without crimping. They exist in a state where their comrades intersect. Therefore, the spacing between filament yarns is widened to provide high air content and bulkiness. Furthermore, since two yarns made of filament yarn having a winding structure as described above are twisted alternately in S and Z, bulkiness is obtained by the S and Z alternate twists of the winding structure and two yarns. Sex is further promoted. Further, the air content and bulkiness described above give a feeling of swelling, and the wound structure of the filament yarn and the converging property of the alternately twisted yarn give a feeling of tension, waist and sliminess.

In particular, when the filament yarns that form the yarn have crimps, the filament yarn spacing is further increased and the bulkiness becomes more remarkable. More preferably, the filament yarn having a long yarn length has crimps. In this case, the filament yarn having crimps winds the filament yarn having a short yarn length, and a part of the crimps caused by the crimping. It is effective in preventing twist offset by forming slack and increasing the unevenness of the yarn.

Furthermore, since the filament yarn having the crimps forming the two yarns has the above-described winding structure and the filament yarns intersect with each other, the ups and downs of the wound filament yarns cause The surface of the strip has unevenness, and the twist propagation resistance of S and Z alternating twist cancellation is large against the tension received during weaving and weaving. Therefore, a stable alternate twisting pattern is maintained, the bulkiness is not significantly reduced, and the yarns are not displaced from each other.

In particular, as shown in FIG. 2, when the filament yarn constituting the yarn A or the yarn B has a structure in which the number of twists changes in the longitudinal direction and is wound, ups and downs of the wound filament yarn are more remarkable. And the surface of the yarn has large irregularities,
The twist propagation resistance of S and Z twist offsetting against the tension received during weaving and knitting is further increased, and a more stable alternate twist pattern can be maintained.

(Examples) Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples.

Example Polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn 110d / 36f (elongation 126%) as the high elongation filament yarns A ₁ and B ₁ , and polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn 75d / as the low elongation filament yarns A ₂ and B _2. Using 36f (elongation 28%), alternate twisted yarn was manufactured according to the process shown in FIG. At this time, the processing conditions for the two weights in FIG. 3 are the same, the surface speed of the feed roller is 120 m / min, the first heater temperature is 180 ° C., and the false twist number is 2990.
Times / m. False twist twisting direction Z, surface speed of first delivery roller 118
False twisting is performed at m / min, then the second heater temperature is 150 ° C, the pressure of compressed air supplied to the fluid twisting device is 4 kg / cm ² , the swirling direction S, the compressed air supply time is 0.2 to 0.8 seconds, and compressed. Twisting was performed with the air supply stop time set to 0.2 to 0.6. The time for supplying / stopping the supply of compressed air was controlled by a random pattern which was previously input to the microcomputer (not shown in FIG. 3). Next, a filament A composed of filament yarns A ₁ and A ₂ obtained from the above weights and filament yarn B ₁
A yarn B composed of B and B ₂ was taken up and aligned by a second delivery roller having a surface speed of 103 m / min, and wound by a winding roller as an alternate twisted yarn on a package.

The obtained alternate twisted yarn has a crimped yarn A and a yarn B of S,
Z are twisted alternately, and in the yarns A and B,
The filament yarns A ₁ and B ₁ having a long yarn length were wound around the filament yarns A ₂ and B ₂ having a short yarn length by alternating S and Z twists.
In addition, between filament yarns A ₁ and A ₂ , filament yarns B ₁ and B ₂
The difference in yarn length between the two was 14.9%. Furthermore, yarn A,
The fineness of each of the yarns B was 215 denier. Also,
The filaments A ₁ and B ₁ each have a fineness of 128 denier, and the filaments A ₂ and B ₂ both have a fineness.
It was 87 denier. Furthermore, the number of twists of the alternate twisted yarn, the yarn A, and the yarn B all changed in the longitudinal direction, and the maximum number of twists was as shown in Table 1.

The obtained alternate twisted yarn has a warp density of 68 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 56 threads / 2.
When weaving with a normal loom into a flat fabric of 54 cm, the warp,
Alternating twisting is not canceled by tension during winding of the pipe and ironing of guides, and fluff does not occur due to misalignment of yarns, and weaving can be performed in a stable yarn form. did it. When the obtained fabric was finished by the usual dyeing and finishing process of polyester fiber, it was bulky, rich in air content, and had a texture similar to that of a wool spun yarn thick fabric having swelling, tension, waist and sliminess. Was there.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, in the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention, two yarns are S and Z.
The filaments are alternately twisted and the two yarns are composed of filament yarns having crimps each having a difference in yarn length, and a filament having a long yarn length while forming a slack in a part of the crimps caused by the crimps. Since the filament yarn has a short yarn length and is wound with alternate S and Z twists, it is bulky and can give woolen yarn-like tension, waist and bulge to a woven or knitted fabric. Further, since the filament yarns constituting each yarn have the winding structure as described above, the twisting offset of S and Z of the alternately twisted yarn is small and is extremely stable. Therefore, even if tension is applied in the knitting and weaving process, the bulkiness is not significantly reduced, and a bulky woven or knitted product can be obtained.
Further, the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention can be manufactured in a small number of processes without undergoing many processes unlike spun yarns, and it is possible to manufacture small lots at low cost, which has diversified consumer preferences in recent years. It is something that can be accommodated.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of an example of the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic side view showing an example of one of the two yarns constituting the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention, FIG. [Fig. 3] is a process schematic diagram showing an example of a method for producing the alternate twisted yarn of the present invention. I …… S twisted part, II …… untwisted part, III …… Z twisted part A, B …… yarns A ₁ , B ₁ …… long filament filaments A ₂ , B ₂ …… Short filament yarn

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A crimped yarn comprising two yarns twisted alternately in S and Z, the two yarns being composed of filament yarns having two or more crimps each having a difference in yarn length. An alternate twisted yarn characterized in that a filament yarn having a long yarn length is wound with a filament yarn having a short yarn length by S and Z alternate twists while forming a slack in a part of the crimp. 2. The number of twists of two yarns is changed in the longitudinal direction so that S,
Z twisted alternately, the maximum number of twists per 1m (However, D is the denier display fineness that combines two yarns)
The alternate twisted yarn according to claim 1, which is as described above. 3. A filament yarn having a difference in yarn length, which constitutes each of the two yarns, is a filament yarn having a long yarn length, a filament yarn having a short yarn length and a twist number varying in the longitudinal direction, and
Z Alternating twists, the maximum number of twists per 1m (However, D _n is a denier-indicating fineness of each yarn) or more, The alternate twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2. 4. The alternate twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the filament yarn having a long yarn length is 5% or more longer than the filament yarn having a short yarn length.