JPH07157904A - How to sew a men's clothing jacket - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] Keeping a beautiful line from shoulders to sleeves even after wearing men's clothing for a long period of time or after cleaning. [Structure] When saddle stitching, the shoulder pad 3 and the front core 4 are trimmed so as to project about 20 mm from the cuff seam line, and the girder cotton 14 is inside the part from the shoulder to the upper part of the sleeve about 2 mm from the cuff seam line. Sew it by the insertion method so that it protrudes.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for sewing a men's clothing upper garment which keeps a beautiful line from the shoulder to the sleeve even after being worn for a long period of time or after being cleaned.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Wearability (comfort) of men's clothing jackets such as suit jackets, jackets, and blazers depends on how the shoulders and arms fit around the neck.
In addition, it is a requirement for the clothing for men's clothing that the part keeps a beautiful three-dimensional shape when worn or hung on a hanger.

On the other hand, the men's clothing garment featuring natural shoulders does not use an excessive core (pat),
It is known that it has a natural line from around the neck to the shoulders and arms, has a beautiful appearance and is light and comfortable to wear.

In the conventional natural shoulder men's clothing, as shown in FIG. 4, when the sleeve portion is sewn on the sleeve 1, the portion where the sleeve body 2 is attached to the sleeve (armhole) is three-dimensionally expanded. In order to maintain a beautiful shape with a shoulder pad 3 and a front core 4,
Furthermore, the cotton girder 5 is used inside the part from the shoulder to the upper part of the sleeve, and this gadget cotton 5 is 7 mm to 8 m on the sleeve edge side when saddle stitching.
Shape retention is ensured by folding back through the seam 6 at the seam allowance of m (single-sided folding method).

In FIG. 4, reference numeral 7 is a back body and 8 is a back body.
Is the back and 9 is the front.

In men's clothing jackets with natural shoulders, which are sewn by a single-sided method, girder cotton is sewn using a thin girder cotton in order to smoothly produce the line from the shoulder to the upper part of the sleeve. After that, it is known that it is necessary to form a natural shoulder by applying a strong press to the folded portion of the girder cotton.

[0007]

However, the men's clothing garment made by the one-sided return method forms a natural shoulder by applying a strong press to the folded-back portion of the girder cotton. By doing so, there is a problem that the bulge along the seam of the armhole pressed by the press at the folded part of the girder cotton is restored, and it is not possible to maintain a beautiful natural shoulder when sewing is finished. This problem cannot be solved even by using girder cotton with thin cuffs, in which case the cuffs have less tension and maintain a three-dimensional shape. Not only not possible,
Fine vertical wrinkles occur on the upper part of the sleeve (below the cuff seam),
It will spoil the appearance of the jacket. This is remarkable when using a light weight fabric for the spring / summer season (fine carded plain weave).

The present invention has been made in view of the above points, and maintains a beautiful line from the shoulder to the sleeve even after long-term wearing or after cleaning without causing unsightly wrinkles on the upper part of the sleeve. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for sewing a men's clothing jacket that keeps a good finished appearance for a long time.

[0009]

According to the method for sewing a men's clothing jacket of the present invention, the shoulder butt and the front core are trimmed so as to protrude from the cuff seam line by about 20 mm during saddle stitching.
It consists of sewn cotton girders inside the part from the shoulders to the upper part of the sleeves by the insertion method so as to project about 2 mm from the cuff seam line.

[0010]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS An embodiment of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. In FIG. 1, the same members as those in FIG. 4 are designated by the same reference numerals.

FIG. 1 is a view of the front part of the body cuff of a men's clothing jacket viewed from the back side. The front balance hair core 10 having an elliptical semi-circular arc shape on the front part of the body cuff is saddle stitched during saddle stitching. Sewn by 11. At the time of this saddle stitching, the shoulder butt 3 and the front core 4 are sewn together by the saddle stitching stitch line 11 in a state where they are cut and aligned so as to project from the stitching line 6 by about 20 mm. Although not shown in FIG. 1, as shown in FIG. 2, a rear portion balance hair core 12 having an elliptic semi-circular arc shape is also sewn to the rear portion of the body cuff by a saddle stitching line 11 during saddle stitching. In the present invention, the front balance hair core 10, the rear balance hair core 12, and the sleeve ridge portion 14 which is wrapped with a cotton cloth obtained by cutting cotton in the form of tape form girder cotton.

After the front balance hair core 10 and the rear balance hair core 12 are sewn to the body sleeve, the sleeve crest portion 14 of the girder cotton is formed inside the portion extending from the shoulder to the upper part of the sleeve from the cuff seam line 6. It is arranged by a plug-in method at a position protruding by about 2 mm, and is sewn to the body armhole portion by the crest girder seam line 15.

FIG. 3 shows another embodiment of the present invention. In this embodiment, only the rear part of the girder cotton sleeve cap 14 is about 20 mm above the intersection of the back seam and the back body of the sleeve. It is sewn to the rear part of the body sleeve sleeve in a twisted state.

[0014]

As described above, according to the present invention, a beautiful line is maintained from the shoulder to the sleeve after wearing for a long period of time or after cleaning, without causing unsightly wrinkles on the upper part of the sleeve, and a good finish is obtained. Can be kept for a long time. In addition, it is possible to have a three-dimensional beautiful shape with a bulge without using thick shoulder pads or girder cotton, so the weight of the wearer's shoulder is not put on the clothes, the wearing feeling is light and easy to move. Becomes

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing a state as viewed from the back side after saddle stitching in which a balance hair core is attached to a front part of a body cuff by a sewing method for a men's clothing upper garment according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a state in which the sleeve portion after saddle stitching in which girder cotton is attached to the sleeve mountain portion is viewed from the back side.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a view seen from the back side in which a body sleeve sleeve girder cotton is sewn by a single-sided method by a conventional method for sewing a men's clothing jacket.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Sleeve part 2 Sleeve body 3 Shoulder pad 4 Front core 10 Front part balance hair core 11 Saddle stitch seam line 11 12 Rear part balance hair core 14 Sleeve part 14

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When saddle stitching, the shoulder pad and the front core are trimmed so as to project about 20 mm from the armhole seam, and the girder cotton protrudes about 2 mm from the armhole seam line inside the region from the shoulder to the upper part of the sleeve. A sewing method for men's clothing garments, characterized in that