JPH0689493B2 - Method for producing dark polyester fiber fabric - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a darkening method for polyester fiber woven fabric.

[Conventional technology]

There are two types of woven fabrics, one woven with dyed yarn (colored yarn) (dyed) and the other woven with dyed yarn (dyed).

In the case of dyeing, many dyed yarns have to be stocked according to the number of colors of the woven fabric, and the amount of residual yarns increases as the number of colors increases, which is a good idea. In this respect, post-dyeing is considered to be advantageous, and with the development of print printing technology, diversification of products, and small lot production, recent post-dyeing has become the mainstream of textiles.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

In the case of post-dyeing, the amount of dye used naturally increases as the fabric becomes thicker, but with this, the degree of internal penetration of the dye also deteriorates, and the interior and surface of the fabric during the coloring process of the dye also deteriorate. The water distribution becomes non-uniform, and stains due to migration are likely to occur, which is particularly pointed out in polyester fibers having poor dyeability.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to efficiently produce a uniform dark-colored thick polyester fiber fabric by post-dyeing, and at the same time, to reduce the use cost of the dye.

[Structure of Invention]

The method for producing a dark-colored polyester fiber woven fabric according to the present invention is consistent with the above-mentioned object, and the front yarn 12 and the back yarn 22 are ordinary polyester fibers, and the middle yarn 13 is a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, and the front yarn A polyester fiber woven fabric 11 having a twill or satin weave design in which the middle yarn 13 connecting the 12 and the back yarn 22 is raised to the front and back in an area ratio of 30% or less and 10% or more within one complete weave design The weight of the front yarn 12, the back yarn 22 and the middle yarn 13 and the weaving density at the knot point 14 are such that the middle yarn 13 appears finely in the longitudinal and transverse dimensions of 0.7 mm × 0.4 mm or less and the surface area of 0.2 mm ² or less. After weaving, the weaving machine is dyed with a chromatic disperse dye and a black cationic dye and a relaxation treatment is performed.

The front yarn and the back yarn 22 are warp double front warp yarns and back warp yarns, or
Weft means double-sided weft and back weft, respectively.
Is a weft that binds those front and back warps and back warps together,
Or, it means a warp that binds the weft double front weft and the back weft, and the cationic dyeable polyester fiber means a sulfonic acid group or a carboxyl group in the main chain or side chain or end of polyethylene terephthalate of ordinary polyester fiber. Means a fiber introduced with.

In order to make the middle yarn 13 stand out on the front and back sides of the woven fabric with an area ratio of 35% or less to 10% or more in one complete weave design, each of the front yarn 12 and the back yarn 22 in the warp or weft double weave design is The arrangement interval is e1, the arrangement interval of the middle thread 13 is e2, the apparent thickness of the front thread 12 and the back thread 22 is d1, and the apparent thickness of the middle thread 13 is
Let d2 be the number of one complete design point (one repeat of the weave design) on one side of the front and back sides, and in the number n of the one complete design point, the knotting points 14 appearing on each of the front and back side of the middle thread When the number is m, it may be set so that they satisfy the following equation.

0.10 ≦ (d1 × d2 × m) / (e1 × e2 × n) ≦ 0.35 The apparent thickness referred to here is measured with the yarn stretched in a straight line with a slight tension so that the yarn does not stretch. It

The thickness and the weaving density of the front yarn 12, the back yarn 22 and the middle yarn 13 are set at the knot point 14
In order to make the middle thread 13 finely appear in the vertical and horizontal dimensions of 0.7 mm × 0.4 mm or less and the surface area of 0.2 mm ² or less, the front thread 12, the back thread 22, and the middle thread
In the range where the apparent thicknesses d1 and d2 of 13 satisfy the inequality of d1 × d2 ≦ 0.15 (mm ² ), one of them has an apparent thickness d1 of 0.4 mm or less, and the other has an apparent thickness d2 of 0.7. mm
Below, and adjacent front threads 12 and 12 ', back threads 22 and 2
2'and the denseness so that there is no perspective gap between the middle yarns 13 and 13 ', that is, the reed density is fine for the warp and the driving density is fine for the weft. The arrangement interval e of them is set to be substantially the same as the apparent thickness d.

The thickness and compactness of the front yarn 12, the back yarn 22, and the middle yarn 13 show the limit for obtaining a uniform and clear single dark color plain polyester fiber woven fabric according to the present invention. It is preferable that the longitudinal and lateral dimensions of the intermediate thread 13 appearing at the knotting point 14 are 0.5 mm × 0.3 mm or less and the surface area is 0.15 mm ² or less. The embodiment will be specifically described with reference to actual examples. For example, if one of the front yarn 12, the back yarn 22 and the middle yarn 13 is spun yarn, the thickness should be 5 or more cotton count and 500 or less denier for filament yarn (processed yarn). Thickness is 0.45mm or less, and the connecting point is 14
When the other is spun yarn, the thickness is cotton count 11 or more and filament yarn (processed yarn) is 220 denier or less and apparent thickness is 0.3 mm or less, and they are arranged closely It is recommended to set the woven density in this manner, and particularly to use the polyester fibers forming the front yarn 12 and the back yarn 22 that have been crimped by being subjected to Woolley processing.

The greige 10 set as described above is subjected to relaxation treatment in the dyeing bath in the subsequent dyeing process, or in the moist heat or washing process, and shrinks by about 10%. It is a twill or satin weave design that rises to the front and back, and the middle thread appears at the front beyond the front thread or back thread at one design point (connection point), but there are two or more front threads and back threads. At the texture point, it continuously exceeds the middle thread, and therefore, the float of the front thread / back thread on the surface of the raw fabric is longer than that of the middle thread. It expands and obscures the knot 14 where the middle thread appears, and at the knot of the raw machine 10, the vertical and horizontal dimensions are 0.45.
The middle thread, which appeared in the area of mm × 0.3 mm or less, is covered with the front and back threads and the vertical and horizontal dimensions are 0.45 mm × 0.15 mm or less or 0.23 mm.
Reduced to less than × 0.3mm.

The dyeing may be carried out by one-bath dyeing in which the disperse dye and the cationic dye are used in the same bath, but due to the difference in the ionicity of the dyes, a tar-like precipitate is produced in the dyeing bath, which deposits on the fabric. Since there is a risk of contamination of the dyes, it is preferable to use the two-bath two-stage dyeing method in which these dyes are properly used. In that case, the disperse dye may be dyed first, and then the cationic dye may be dyed.

〔The invention's effect〕

(1) In the present invention, the disperse dye is dyed to the front yarn and the back yarn which are ordinary polyester fibers, but is not dyed to the left as much to the middle yarn which is a polyester fiber dyeable with a cationic dye. On the other hand,
The cationic dye is dyed on the middle yarn which is a polyester fiber dyeable with a cationic dye, but it is hardly dyed on ordinary polyester fibers to the extent that it is contaminated. As a result, the surface area and the back surface area of 65% or more of the woven fabric of the present invention having a double weave structure are colored with the chromatic color front yarn and back yarn dyed with the disperse dye.

Then, the black middle thread dyed with the cationic dye appears on the front and back surfaces at a ratio of 35% or less, but as a result of the color mixture of the background on the fabric surface, the hue is 65% or more, which is a dominant chromatic hue. With 35% or less achromatic black color, the lightness of the woven surface is reduced without significantly reducing the saturation of the chromatic color, and as a result, the colors on the front and back sides are clearly thickened without turbidity. .

That is, the vivid color due to the monodisperse dye on the front surface (back surface) of the woven fabric does not become cloudy due to darkening.

(2) The size of the middle thread, which appears as black dots at each knotting point, makes the arrangement of the front thread and the back thread dense, and limits the thickness of each thread of the front thread, the back thread, and the middle thread. As a result, it becomes very small, and the greige is shaken in the dyeing process to be relaxed, whereby the front yarn or back yarn shifts and relaxes so as to cover the middle yarn at each knot where the middle yarn appears. It contracts, reveals bulkiness, expands and covers the joints from the left and right, and the maximum vertical and horizontal dimensions of 0.7 mm x 0.4 in a raw machine.
The middle thread that appeared as a black dot of 0.3 mm is 0.35 mm
Black dots of 0.4 mm or less or 0.7 mm × 0.2 mm or less (long side 0.35 m
m, short side 0.40 mm or less, or long side 0.70 mm, short side 0.20 mm or less).

By the way, the minimum length that a person with normal vision (1.0) can distinguish two points at a distance of 5 m under an illumination of 200 Lx is 1.5 mm.
And the visual angle at that time is 1 '. This means that a point with a side of 0.15 mm is indistinguishable from the surrounding color when it is viewed by a person with normal eyesight at a distance of 50 cm or more. This is supported by the fact that the halftone dots of the color reproduction are rough and 60 dots / cm, that is, the halftone dot spacing is 10 mm / 60 dots = 0.17 (mm / piece).

And the size of the black middle thread appearing in the fabric obtained according to the present invention is 0.35 mm × 0.4 mm or less in the length and width or 0.7 mm × 0.2 mm or less, which means that a person with normal vision sees from the distance of clear vision. It is barely recognizable as a "dot".

Therefore, the middle yarn, which darkens the vivid color by the monodisperse dye on the front surface (back surface) of the polyester fiber fabric, appears as stains on the front surface (back surface) of the fabric or as fine spots of defrosting. The surface (back side) of the polyester fiber woven fabric does not become dull with low saturation.

Therefore, as described as the embodiment of the present invention,
The vertical and horizontal dimensions of the middle thread 13 appearing at the knot 14 are 0.5 mm × 0.3
It is desirable that the surface area is 0.15 mm ² or less when the size is less than mm, and this is 0.25 in length and width by dyeing and relaxing.
It is desirable that the size be less than mm × 0.3 mm or less than 0.5 mm × 0.15 mm.

(3) In the polyester fiber woven fabric according to the present invention, the black dots of the middle yarn appearing in such small "dots" are regularly arranged according to the weave structure, and the surface around the knotting point occupying 65% or more of the woven fabric surface. It blends with the chromatic color of the thread or the back thread, and can be discerned only to the viewer as the shadow of the texture of the front thread or the back thread, which cannot be easily identified as "black spots". The thread or back thread looks darker than it really is,
This has the effect of adding depth and texture to the appearance of the fabric.

Of course, in order to do so, not only do the middle yarns appear in the complete weaving structure with an area ratio of 35% or less, but also in the complete weaving structure with an area ratio of at least 10% or more on both front and back surfaces. It goes without saying that you will do the same.

(4) Due to the effect of the black dots of the middle yarn, the front and back can be deeply dyed with a small amount of the disperse dye used, and such a stain unevenness tends to occur when the amount of the disperse dye used (dyed amount) is small. In addition, the amount of disperse dye dyed on the entire polyester fiber fabric is reduced because the intermediate yarn is dyed with a black cationic dye which is less expensive than the chromatic disperse dye.

(5) The front yarn and the back yarn are not contaminated by the cationic dye, and therefore, the front and back surfaces have clear colors, while the middle yarn is slightly contaminated by the disperse dye, but the dyed cationic dye is black. This counteracts the stains and thus gives a woven fabric which is dyed in deep shades.

〔Example〕

Normal polyester fiber filament yarn with a total denier of 150d (number of filaments: 48)
And back warp 22, each with a warp density of 36 yarns / cm (total warp yarn density 72 yarns / cm), and a total denier 300d (48 filaments x 2 yarns) wooly processed cationic dyeable polyester fiber Filament yarn is used for the middle yarn (weft) 13 and the weft density is 26.8 threads / cm.
0 was woven, then scoured and dried at 170 ° C., circular dyed, washed with water and dried at 170 ° C. with a black cationic dye and a chromatic disperse dye, and finished with a tenter at 185 ° C.

The polyester fiber woven fabric 11 thus obtained has a width of about 10% and a length of about 15%, respectively, as compared with the raw fabric 10.
12 and the back warp 22 are dyed clearly with a disperse dye without being contaminated with a cationic dye, and the apparent thickness is swollen by about 1.5 times compared to that of the raw machine 10, while the middle yarn 13 is not contaminated with a disperse dye. Is dyed in a clear black color with a cationic dye,
Compared with the case where only the disperse dye is dyed, the color tone of the entire fabric 11 is deeper, deeper and clearer, and there is no turbidity in the color, and the middle yarns 13 of the binding points 14 cannot be individually observed on the fabric surface 11. It was extremely small.

Further, the knotting points 14 of the obtained polyester fiber woven fabric 11 were randomly selected at 40 points, and the longitudinal and lateral dimensions of the middle thread 13 appearing there were measured by a microscope. As a result, the horizontal (front thread 12 and back thread 22 Average dimension d1 in the vertical direction is 0.127 mm (max 0.20 mm, min 0.06 m)
m), the average length d2 of the length (apparent thickness of the middle thread 13) is 0.335.
mm (maximum 0.38 mm, minimum 0.30 mm), and these measured values had a substantially normal distribution.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged surface view of a twill weaving machine in the present invention, FIG. 2 is an enlarged surface view of a woven fabric obtained by dyeing and finishing the weaving machine of FIG. 1, and FIG.
The figure is the front organization chart of the greige machine of FIG. 1, FIG. 4 is the back organization chart of the greige machine of FIG. 1, and FIG. 5 is the double weave construction consisting of the front organization of FIG. 3 and the back organization of FIG. 6 and 6 are sectional views taken along line XX 'in FIG. 1, and FIG. 7 is a sectional view taken along line YY' in FIG. 10… Gift, 11… Polyester fiber fabric, 12… Front yarn, 22… Back yarn, 13… Medium yarn, 14… Bonding point.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) The front yarn 12 and the back yarn 22 are ordinary polyester fibers, (2) the middle yarn 13 is a polyester fiber dyeable with a cationic dye, and (3) the front yarn 12 and the back yarn 22 are bonded. With a twill or satin weave design in which the intermediate thread 13 is 35% or less and 10% or more in area ratio within the complete weave design, (4) the polyester fiber woven fabric 11 is designed in a warp double or weft double structure. , (5) The thickness and the weave density of the front yarn 12, the back yarn 22, and the middle yarn 13 should be adjusted so that the middle yarn 13 appears finely in the longitudinal and transverse dimensions of 0.7 mm × 0.4 mm or less and the surface area of 0.2 mm ² or less at the knot point 14. And (6) after weaving, dyeing the greige with a chromatic disperse dye and a black cationic dye and performing a relaxation treatment.