JPH06306733A - Special woven or knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a special woven or knit fabric having soft and slimy touch and giving a good-looking tailored dress. CONSTITUTION:The woven or knit fabric is composed of a conjugate yarn having easily fibrillating fiber on the surface of the yarn. The fibrillated fibers of the easily fibrillating fiber are entangled with each other to form isolated protrusions sporadically dispersed on the surface of the special woven or knit fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a special knitted fabric which is soft-touch and has a slimy feel and is excellent in tailoring.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a knitted fabric with a soft touch and a slimy feel, for example, a special yarn such as a sea-island fiber or a split yarn is used.
Examples include those obtained by knitting and weaving using ultrafine fibers of about 1 denier, and raising one surface of the yarn. However, the production of special yarns, knitting and weaving, and the complicated and advanced processes such as ultrafine and raised Since technology is required, productivity is low and cost is high. In addition, since soft touch is generally pursued, so-called "stiffness" is lost, the performance of the sewing process is deteriorated, and so-called tailor-made appearance becomes poor when used as clothes.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a special knitted fabric which is extremely easy and low cost, has a soft touch, has a slimy feel, and has a good tailored appearance.

[0004]

The present invention is a knitted woven fabric composed of a composite yarn having easily fibrillated fibers on the yarn surface, which is an island formed by intertwining fibrillated fibers of easily fibrillated fibers. The special knitted fabric is characterized in that the convex portions are scattered on the surface of the knitted fabric.

The term "fibrillated fiber" as used herein means a fiber obtained by crushing a side surface or an end portion of a single fiber of an easily fibrillated fiber to form an ultrafine fiber, and at least one end thereof is connected to the single fiber. It is a thing. Also, the island-shaped protrusions
It means that a plurality of fibrillated fibers are entangled with each other. Scattering is preferably distributed evenly on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the number is preferably 100 / 10,000 / cm ² and the area ratio Is preferably 5 to 60%.

In the present invention, the easily fibrillated fibers are regenerated cellulose fibers such as silk, cupra, viscose rayon and polynosic rayon (particularly preferably having an average degree of polymerization of 500 to 600), and LYOCELL;
For example, Textile Society of Japan (Fiber and Industry), Vol. 48, No.
11 (1992) P-584-P. Corresponding to the product name TENCEL manufactured by Courtles, Inc. described in 591. ), Acrylic synthetic fibers (including polyacrylonitrile and a copolymer containing 40% by weight or more of polyacrylonitrile).
Filament and spun yarn. Further, the composite yarn having the easily fibrillated fiber on the yarn surface means the easily fibrillated fiber of the same kind or another kind as the easily fibrillated fiber, or the easily fibrillated fiber and the difficult fibrillated fiber other than the easily fibrillated fiber. , A composite yarn obtained by blending, twisting, covering, etc., wherein the easily fibrillated fibers occupy 30% or more, preferably 50% or more of the fibers constituting the yarn surface, and particularly preferable. Is preferably a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure in which the easily fibrillated fiber constitutes the sheath.

Therefore, even if the core portion is the easily fibrillated fiber, the easily fibrillated fiber which is a feature of the present invention is a feature of the present invention in the composite yarn having the complete sheath-core structure in which the sheath portion is made of the non-fibrillated fiber. This is excluded because the island-shaped protrusions formed by the entanglement of the fibrillated fibers are not formed.

The difficult fibrillated fibers are fibers other than the above-mentioned easily fibrillated fibers, for example, wool, cotton,
There are hemp, acetate, polyester, polyamide and the like.
The type of fibers constituting the composite yarn may be one kind or two or more kinds, and may be appropriately selected as desired. For example, cupra comrades, silk and acrylic, viscose rayon by continuous spinning method and winding of 6000 m / min or more. Spin take-up type polyester spun at speed, polynosic rayon and polyester, cupra and polyamide and the like.

Particularly, two or more kinds of regenerated cellulose long fibers having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 1.5% or more, preferably 2% to 12% (regenerated cellulose long fibers having different boiling water shrinkage are regenerated cellulose long fibers. It can be obtained by changing the spinning method. For example, the shrinkage rate of boiling water increases in the order of Hank method, cake method <net process method <continuous spinning method, and these can be appropriately combined as desired. , Increases the feed rate of mixed fiber and easy fibrillated fiber with difficult fibrillated fiber having a boiling water shrinkage greater than that of easily fibrillated fiber (for example, highly shrinkable polyester fiber or polyester different shrinkage mixed yarn) And false twisting, entanglement, mixed fiber or fluid injection processed composite yarn, core spun yarn, hollow spindle spinning, silospan and silofil Composite yarn consisting of staple fibers each other or short fibers and long fibers obtained by a composite spinning techniques are preferred.

The composite yarn is used to form a knitted fabric, and it is good that the composite yarn occupies 30% or more, preferably 50% or more of the fiber yarn constituting the surface of the knitted fabric. And the above-mentioned difficult-to-fibrillate fiber yarns and easy-to-fibrillate fiber yarns are mixed and woven, for example, mixed warp yarns are prepared or mixed and weft-inserted. In particular, a twill fabric or a satin fabric in which one of the warp yarns or the weft yarn is a composite yarn and the other is a difficult fibrillated fiber yarn has island-shaped protrusions formed on only one surface, which is a so-called reversible fabric. . Further, for example, a warp knitted fabric using a composite yarn on one of the front side and the back side and a difficult fibrillated fiber yarn on the other side is also preferable as a reversible knitted fabric. Pattern-knitted fabrics such as jacquard are preferred because island-shaped protrusions are formed mainly around the pattern portion, and so-called FUJIET imparts a slimy feel to the texture peculiar to FUJIET.

The fiber yarns to be mixed in the knitting and weaving include, for example, raw yarns of easily fibrillated fiber yarns such as regenerated cellulose fibers, twisted yarns, design yarns and spun yarns, and synthetic fibers represented by polyester. Original yarn, twisted yarn, design yarn,
Different shrinkage mixed yarn, spontaneously stretched mixed yarn, carded textured yarn, for example, high elongation yarn such as polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY), and low elongation yarn such as polyester regular yarn,
Alignment and entanglement with cationic dyeable yarn and spin take-ab yarn spun at a winding speed of 6000 m / min or more may be mixed with false twisted yarn or spun yarn, and can be appropriately selected according to the desired knitted fabric texture. good.

If necessary, the composite yarn is 100 T / m or more,
Preferably, it may be twisted at a twist number of 500 to 2000 T / m and used. After being temporarily twisted, it is knitted and woven, and then subjected to a graining process in a dyeing step. Examples of the textured knitted fabric include crepe (palace, flat, décin, Yangyanagi, Oriental, Georgette), voile, chilimen and the like. Further, other fiber yarns which are interwoven and knitted may be used as twisted yarns, and S twists and Z twists may be alternately used for warp yarns and / or weft yarns.

The method for forming the island-shaped protrusions in the present invention is, for example, a normal pressure washer, a continuous relaxing machine,
Methods such as kneading in a wet state in a jet dyeing machine, an air flow dyeing machine, or a Wins dyeing machine, or rubbing the knitted and woven fabric surface by the stone wash method are taken into consideration, taking into consideration the state of fibrillation and the formation of island-shaped protrusions. Then, the conditions of kneading and rubbing may be adjusted appropriately. In this case, it is preferable to use a swelling agent for easily fibrillated fiber, for example, in the case of silk or regenerated cellulose fiber, in an alkaline aqueous solution such as NaOH, in the case of acrylic fiber, rodancari, rodan soda, sulfuric acid, nitric acid,
A kneading treatment in a liquid containing DMF, DMSO or the like is preferable because it reduces the strength of the fiber and generates fibrillated fiber.

It is also preferable to reduce the amount of easily fibrillated fiber with an enzyme (for example, cellulase enzyme in regenerated cellulose fiber) in advance so that the fibrillated fiber is generated while suppressing the decrease in the strength of the fiber. Wrinkle processing may be performed before the island-shaped convex portions are formed, or after the formation, soft finish processing may be performed by a paper calendering treatment or a silicone softening agent treatment.

When the special knitted fabric of the present invention is used as an outer garment, the outer garment has an extremely high-class feeling due to the appearance and texture of the surface, and is a garment that is tailored and looks good. When used as an outer garment, the interlining is preferably a thin and soft knit interlining, and the adhesive interlining is a double dod having two layers of dodd-shaped adhesive as disclosed in JP-A-4-316682. The type is good.

[0016]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples. In addition, the boiling water shrinkage is JIS L-1095A method and the number of confounding is JIS L-1013 method.

Example 1 75d / 74f cupra multifilaments (boiling water shrinkage rate 2.5%) and 75d / 45f cupra multifilaments (boiling water shrinkage rate 5.7%) were interlaced and mixed with each other at 50 entanglements / m mixed filament yarn was obtained. 2 for this mixed yarn
A plain weave is woven using warp yarns and weft yarns that have been subjected to additional twisting of 00 times / m (warp 110 yarns / inch, weft 80 yarns / inch), relax scouring according to the usual method, and dye with a jet dyeing machine. At the same time, it was subjected to a rubbing treatment for 5 hours, dried, and subjected to a soft finish (warp 130 / inch, weft 90 / inch). The surface of the obtained fabric, the island-shaped convex portion formed by tangled fibrillated fibers about which 3300 pieces / cm ² is formed, which accounted for about 23% area ratio. An upper garment for women's suits was produced using this woven fabric.

A woven fabric of Comparative Example was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the rubbing treatment was carried out for 1 hour. In Example 1, the upper garment had a soft touch and had a slimy feel and had a nice tailored appearance, while in Comparative Example, there was no slimy feel, and conversely, there was a deviation due to locally fibrillated fibers.

Example 2 A 50 T / m twist of 350 d / 25 f of acrylic multifilament (boiling water shrinkage 7%) was mixed with a cocoon yarn on a reeling machine and mixed with a cocoon yarn (cocoon yarn 30%). The treated yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, woven in the same manner as in Example 1, kneaded in a cloth state, then kneaded for 5 hours at the same time as dyeing, and finished. About 3500 islands / cm ^{2 are} formed on the surface of the obtained fabric, and the area ratio is about 2
It accounted for 5%. When the upper garment for women's suits was produced using this woven fabric, it was a soft touch and had a slimy feel and was tailor-made.

Example 3 75d / 33f viscose rayon multifilament (boiling water shrinkage 1.5%) and 75d / 36f polyester multifilament (boiling water shrinkage 6.7%) were over-fed (feed difference 15). %) And fluid jetting, and then additional twisting, weaving, dyeing and kneading at the same time as in Example 1, and finishing. About 1500 islands / cm ^{2 were} formed on the surface of the obtained woven fabric, and the area ratio occupied about 12%. When an upper garment for women's suits was produced using this woven fabric, the upper garment was slightly inferior to Examples 1 and 2 in soft touch and slimy feel, but had good tailored appearance.

[0021]

Industrial Applicability The present invention provides a special knitted fabric which is soft-touch and has a slimy feel and is excellent in tailoring.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A knitted fabric composed of a composite yarn having easily fibrillated fibers on the yarn surface, wherein island-shaped projections formed by intertwining the fibrillated fibers of the easily fibrillated fiber are Special knitted fabric characterized by being scattered on the surface.