JPH06212558A - Processing of woven fabric of twisted cellulosic fiber yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain twist yarn woven fabric having excellent appearance and shrinkproofness by weaving cloth with cellulosic fiber yarn having a twist number larger than a specific level as warps or wefts, subjecting the cloth to creping and alkali treatment and drying in relaxed state under crumpling. CONSTITUTION:Woven fabric is produced by using cellulosic fiber yarn such as cuprammonium rayon having a twist number of >=1,000 T/m as the warps and wefts. The woven fabric is creped by detwisting, treated in an alkaline aqueous solution and dried in relaxed state while crumpling the fabric at a water-content of >=20wt.% and <90wt.%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for processing a twisted woven fabric. More specifically, it relates to a method for improving appearance quality and imparting shrinkage resistance. The present invention relates to a processing method that has good graininess and excellent dimensional stability during washing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A twisted woven fabric of cellulosic fibers can be made to have unevenness when it is creped. However, since the degree of swelling in water is higher than that of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, the woven fabric is stretched in the wet process of dyeing and finishing after graining, the graininess is reduced, and the shrink resistance is also reduced, and You can only get poor quality.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a twisted woven fabric of cellulosic fibers which has good graininess and excellent shrinkage resistance.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of earnest research on the relationship between the swelling of cellulosic fibers in water and the crease formation and dimensional change of unwoven fabric of twisted woven fabric It was clarified that the decrease in graininess and the dimensional change due to swelling were most affected by the swelling of the cellulosic fiber with water and the drying method for evaporating the water content from the woven fabric, and completed the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, a woven fabric in which a cellulose fiber yarn having a twist number of 1000 T / m or more is used as at least a warp or a weft is untwisted, crimped, and then treated in an alkaline aqueous solution, and then the above-mentioned. Moisture content of the fabric is 20% by weight
A method for processing a cellulosic fiber twisted yarn woven fabric, which comprises relaxing dry while kneading with less than 90% by weight.

The yarn having a twist of 1000 T / m or more used in the present invention means a cellulosic fiber yarn having a twist of 100.
The number of twists of 1000 T or more is 0 T / m or more, and the relation between the untwisting force generated when the fibers swell in water and the dimensional change in the yarn length direction and the cross-sectional direction is significantly different from that of less than 0 T / m. The value of / m or more more affects the size and uniformity of the wrinkle by the above relationship.

[0007] Further, considering the retaining property of the grain of the grained woven fabric, the cellulosic fiber is relaxed in an alkaline aqueous solution having a higher swelling degree than water.
By the drying process of the subsequent process, it is possible to dry the woven fabric without applying unnecessary tension.
It is possible to impart shrink resistance. The alkaline aqueous solution used in the present invention is preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate or the like, and the treatment with the aqueous solution is performed by untwisting the woven fabric, creaking and then treating with a continuous relaxer or a Hineken type machine. The treatment concentration is preferably 1
It is preferably 0 g / liter or more and less than 80 g / liter. With this treatment concentration, sufficient swelling is given to the cellulosic fiber, and the fiber is not damaged such as strength reduction. When the treatment temperature is 10 ° C. or higher and lower than 80 ° C., the treatment time is preferably 1 minute or longer and shorter than 30 minutes.

Another point of the present invention is a method of drying after treating with an alkaline aqueous solution. After the treatment with the alkaline aqueous solution, it is neutralized by a conventional method, washed with water, and then dehydrated. Subsequently, as a method of drying, the fabric is relaxed and dried while being rubbed with a moisture content of 20% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight. The moisture content of the cellulosic fiber fabric is 20% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight and 60% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight.
Since the dimensional change of the woven fabric greatly changes in two areas, the most stable woven structure can be obtained by kneading and relaxing and drying in this area. Will be obtained.

In the present invention, kneading / relax drying means that the fabric is not tensioned as much as possible in a high moisture content region of the fabric, that is, 60% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight, and
Low moisture content region of woven fabric, that is, 20% by weight or more and 50% by weight
Below, it is for obtaining an overfeed effect in the warp and weft directions by drying the fabric. The dryer is, for example, a drum-type tumbler dryer, a method of blowing hot air from above and below by a net conveyor method to dry while kneading the fabric, or a dryer of a jet dyeing machine. No. 80912, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-
A processing machine such as the specification of 25116 or U.S. Pat. No. 3,718,012 is also included.

The cellulosic fibers used in the present invention include cotton, viscose rayon (including polynosic), copper ammonia ray, rayon having a high degree of polymerization of 500 to 600 and dry organic solvent spun rayon. The present invention, the effect of the present invention even if subjected to a texture improvement before and after the alkaline aqueous solution by an enzyme treatment such as cellulase for improving the appearance quality, or subjected to a stone wash process for improving the appearance quality and the texture. Can hold

Further, the shrinkage resistance and the texture can be further improved by subjecting the cellulosic fibers to fiber processing, such as resin processing or softening, before and after kneading / relax drying.

[0012]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. The washing shrinkage rate is in accordance with JIS-L-1042 G method. Also, the feeling of graininess is based on the following evaluation criteria. Grade 5: Uniform deep grain is produced.

Grade 4 A uniform and slightly shallow grain appears. Grade 3 Uniform wrinkles appear. There is uneven unevenness of the second grade. Grade 1 The graininess is poor and there is almost no graininess.

[0014]

Example 1 Copper-ammonia rayon fiber 75d for warp
/ 45f, copper ammonia method rayon fiber 100d for weft
/ 60f (SZ2700T / m) Bemberg de Chine (density, warp 129 / inch, weft 74 / inch)
Was untwisted by a conventional method, and was wrung.

Subsequently, the mixture was treated with a 30 g / liter aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at 50 ° C. for 10 minutes with a Hineken type scouring machine, followed by neutralization and washing with water. Further, using a Winth dyeing machine, the dyeing was carried out by a conventional method with a reactive dye, followed by washing and centrifugal dehydration to obtain a woven fabric having a moisture content of 82% by weight. Then use a tumbler dryer at 80 ° C for 1
After drying for 5 minutes, a tenter type dryer was used to set the width.

[0016]

Example 2 The wet fabric dyed with the reactive dye obtained in Example 1 was squeezed with a mangle roll and dried by a net conveyor system. Subsequently, polyurethane resin (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., trade name Elastron MF-9)
3% by weight, catalyst (trade name Cat3 manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
2) Apply a resin liquid containing 0.9% by weight by the dip nip method (pickup rate 85%), and use a continuous tumbler dryer (Tunbrest, trade name manufactured by Gunze Sangyo Co., Ltd.) to
It was dried at 00 ° C. for 2 minutes and then heat-treated at 150 ° C. for 2 minutes with a pin tenter type dryer.

[0017]

Comparative Example 1 The bemberg decin used in Example 1 was untwisted and creped by a conventional method, dyed with a reactive dye using a Wins dyeing machine, and set in a tenter with a pin tenter type dryer.

[0018]

Comparative Example 2 The woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 was heat-treated with the same resin formulation as in Example 2 using only a pin tenter type dryer without using a continuous tumbler dryer. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the various woven fabrics obtained as described above.

[0019]

[Table 1]

As can be seen from Table 1, Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention have a uniform and good texture feeling compared with Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and have a washing shrinkage ratio of less than 5% in both the weft and latitudinal directions. Shrinkproof property is obtained.

[0021]

[Example 3] Viscose rayon fiber 120d for warp
/ 50f (SZ2000T / m), viscose rayon fiber 120d / 50f (SZ2000T / m) for weft
Rayon georgette (density, warp 70 warps / inch, weft 62 warps / inch) was untwisted and crimped by a conventional method. Subsequently, the mixture was treated with a 30 g / liter aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at 50 ° C. for 15 minutes with a Hineken type scouring machine, and then neutralized and washed with water.

Further, it is dyed with a direct dye by a conventional method using a Wins dyeing machine, and after a fixing treatment, 0.5% by weight owf of aminosilicone softening agent (Nikka Silicone AMZ, manufactured by Nika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) is added. After treating with a Wins dyeing machine at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes in an aqueous solution containing
A woven fabric having a moisture content of 85% by weight was obtained. Next, it was dried at 100 ° C. for 1 minute with a net conveyor type dryer (shrink surfer type), and subsequently, a tenter type dryer was used to set the width.

[0023]

[Comparative Example 3] The rayon georgette used in Example 3 was untwisted and creped by a conventional method, directly dyed with a Wins dyeing machine, fixed, dehydrated, and then dried on a net conveyor dryer. And dried. Then, dip an aqueous solution containing 0.5% by weight of Nikka Silicone AMZ.
It was applied by the nip method, and the width was set with a pin tenter type dryer.

[0024]

[Example 4] Viscose rayon fiber 120d for warp
/ 50f, rayon short fiber in weft (average degree of polymerization 500)
Rayon twist yarn using 30 cotton count single yarn (Z1000T / m) (density, warp 102 yarns / inch, weft 5)
(9 pieces / inch) were untwisted and squeezed by a conventional method.

Subsequently, it was treated with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide 45 g / liter, followed by neutralization and washing with water, and dyeing with a reactive dye by a conventional method using an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine,
After washing, the mangle was dehydrated and dried by a net conveyor dryer. Subsequently, dimethyldihydroxyethylene urea-based resin (trade name: Fixapret NF manufactured by BASF)
10% by weight, mixed metal salt catalyst (trade name C manufactured by BASF)
3% by weight of ondesol 2451) and 0.5% by weight of aminosilicone-based softener (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., Nikka Silicone AMZ-3) in an aqueous solution.
It was applied by the nip method to obtain a woven fabric having a moisture content of 80% by weight.

Then, the continuous tumbler dryer is used for 100
Dry for 2 minutes at ℃, then 16 with a pin tenter type dryer
Heat treatment was performed at 0 ° C. for 2 minutes.

[0027]

[Example 5] Polynosic 50 cotton count single yarn (Z1
000T / m), copper ammonia method rayon fiber 7 for weft
Reverse twisted yarn Ett fabric (density, 88 warps / inch, weft 84 threads / inch) using 5d / 45f (SZ1200T / m) was untwisted and deflated by a conventional method, and subsequently, Example 4
Alkali treatment, dyeing, drying, and resin processing were performed in the same manner as in.

[0028]

[Comparative Example 4] The rayon twisted yarn et used in Example 4 was untwisted and creped by a conventional method, dyed with a reactive dye in an atmospheric pressure jet dyeing machine, and after dewatering mangle, in a net conveyor dryer. Dried. Subsequently, a resin solution was applied according to the resin formulation used in Example 4, and 100 was applied by a pin tenter type dryer.
Dry for 1 minute at ℃ and roll-baked at 160 ℃ for 2 minutes.
Heat treated for minutes.

[0029]

Comparative Example 5 The reverse woven fabric used in Example 5 was used in Comparative Example 4.
In the same manner as above, untwisting, graining, dyeing, drying and resin processing were performed.
Table 2 shows the physical properties of the various woven fabrics obtained as described above.

[0030]

[Table 2]

From Table 2, Example 3 of the present invention was compared with Comparative Example 3
It has a uniform and deep grainy feeling, and has a washing shrinkage ratio of less than 5% both in the weft direction. In addition, Examples 4 and 5 are Comparative Example 4
Compared with No. 5 and No. 5, there is a uniform and good feeling of warping, the shrinkage factor after washing is high, and a high shrink resistance of 2% or less in the weft direction is obtained.

[0032]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The processing method of the present invention can industrially produce a cellulosic fiber twisted woven fabric having a uniform texture and excellent shrink resistance.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric in which a cellulosic fiber yarn having a twist number of 1000 T / m or more is used as at least a warp or a weft is untwisted, creped and then treated in an alkaline aqueous solution, and then the moisture content of the woven fabric is increased. Of 20% by weight or more and less than 90% by weight is relaxed and dried while kneading, and a method for processing a cellulosic fiber twisted yarn woven fabric.