JPH05132856A - Production of hard twisted stretchable woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce a woven fabric with excellent stretchability by weaving hard-twisted yarns of latently shrinkable conjugated polyester fibers having specific crimp properties, subjecting the woven fabric to alkali-thinning treatment followed by humid heat treatment at elevated temperature. CONSTITUTION:For example, polyester components different from each other in boiling water shrinkage are used to produce latently shrinkable conjugated polyester fibers having higher than 70% elasticity after 30min. boiling water treatment and more than 50% crimpability. The yarns from the polyester fibers are heated in the range from 10,000 to 25,000 twist multiplier K and heat-set to give hard-twisted yarns. The yarns are woven as the warp and weft to give a fabric, which is subjected to alkali thinning treatment of 5 to 40% weight reduction. The fabric is dyed in usual manner and finished with humid heat treatment at 100 deg.C or higher temperature for more than 30 minutes to allow the fabric to develop their crimp properties whereby high-stretchability woven fabric of high modulus is obtained.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric excellent in stretchability and stretch recovery, that is, stretchability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various methods have been adopted for imparting excellent stretchability to a woven fabric. For example, there is a method of using a polyurethane-based yarn excellent in stretchability as a yarn constituting a woven fabric. However, this polyurethane-based yarn has a drawback that the texture is hard as a property peculiar to polyurethane, and therefore the texture of the woven fabric is lowered, or the drape property of the woven fabric is reduced. In order to avoid this drawback, it has been practiced to weave a woven fabric by using a polyurethane yarn and a polyester yarn together. However, there is a difference in dyeability between the polyurethane-based yarn and the polyester-based yarn, and the dyeing process becomes complicated when dyeing the woven fabric, or the desired color (in many cases, dark color) is dyed. There was a drawback that it became difficult.

Further, it has been practiced to impart elasticity to a woven fabric by using a false twisted yarn as a yarn constituting the woven fabric. The false twisting yarn has an inherent torque due to twisting and untwisting, and this torque imparts elasticity to the yarn. However, this torque tends not only to contribute to the stretchability of the woven fabric, but also to easily transfer to the texture on the surface of the woven fabric. Therefore, the woven fabric composed of the false twist textured yarn has a good stretchability, but has a drawback that the surface is likely to be wrinkled. In order to avoid this drawback, the woven fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to reduce the torque in the false twisted yarn, but in this case, the disadvantage of the occurrence of wrinkles is reduced, but the original purpose is However, there is a drawback that the elasticity is lowered. Further, in order to balance the torque in the false twisted yarn, S twist and Z twist are given as false twist directions, and the yarns are combined into twin yarns to weave a woven fabric. ing. However, since each torque is balanced, there is a drawback that the stretchability of the woven fabric is insufficient. That is, the target growth rate of 15% or more,
In particular, it was difficult to obtain an elongation rate of 20 to 30%.
Moreover, the elongation recovery was also insufficient.

[0004]

Therefore, there is a method of obtaining a stretchable woven fabric by using a yarn composed of crimpable fibers without using a polyurethane yarn or a false twisted yarn. Being tried. For example, a method has been attempted in which a woven fabric is woven with a yarn composed of a composite fiber having a latent crimping property, and the woven fabric is heat-treated to develop crimps in the composite fiber. However, even if the latently crimped conjugate fiber that is generally used is used, a woven fabric having sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained. The reason for this is that when a yarn made of latently crimpable conjugate fiber is used for the warp and / or the weft, the yarn is restrained by the woven structure and the crimping performance originally possessed by the conjugate fiber is sufficiently exhibited. It is thought that this is because the crimped composite fiber does not inherently have high elasticity.

Therefore, the present inventors have used a latent crimpable conjugate fiber having a specific crimping performance, and the latent crimping conjugate fiber present in the woven fabric exhibits sufficient crimping performance. Thus, a method for obtaining a woven fabric having excellent stretchability has been proposed (JP-A-3-02098). That is, the present invention provides a yarn composed of a latent crimpable composite polyester fiber having a crimping performance with an elastic modulus after boiling water treatment for 30 minutes of 70% or more and a crimping rate of 50% or more, Weaving a woven fabric as warp and / or weft, and then subjecting the woven fabric to alkali weight reduction treatment to reduce the woven fabric by 5 to 40%, and thereafter under the condition that the fabric is given a temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C. or more for 30 minutes or more. After dyeing and finishing,
A method for producing a stretchable woven fabric, characterized in that the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber constituting the woven fabric is made to exhibit the crimping performance.

The present inventors have attempted to improve the present invention in order to produce a woven fabric having better stretchability. Then, if the yarn made of the latently crimpable conjugate fiber having a certain crimping performance used in the present invention is twisted with a certain twisting coefficient and subjected to heat setting, a strong twisting yarn is used. As compared with the woven fabric obtained by the method according to the invention, it has been found that the fabric can be imparted with good stretchability and excellent resilience, and can be stretched or waisted. is there.

[0007]

That is, the present invention is based on boiling water 30
It is composed of latently crimpable composite polyester fibers having a crimping performance with a modulus after treatment of 70% or more and a crimping rate of 50% or more, and a twisting coefficient K represented by the following formula of 10,000 to 25,000.
After twisting in the range, the heat-set strongly twisted yarn is woven as a warp and / or a weft, and then the fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment to reduce the weight of the fabric by 5 to 40%, and then The fabric is subjected to a dyeing finishing process under the condition that a temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C. or more is given for 30 minutes or more, and at this time, the latent crimping composite type polyester fiber constituting the fabric exhibits the crimping performance. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable fabric, which is characterized in that Note T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ) [where T represents the number of twists per 1 m of the yarn length, and D represents the denier number of the yarn. ]

The strongly twisted yarn used in the present invention is composed of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber. That is, yarns such as a multifilament yarn in which a plurality of monofilaments composed of latently crimpable composite polyester fibers are bundled, and a spun yarn in which staple fibers composed of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber are spun. Articles are used in the present invention. The latent crimpable composite polyester fiber is a combination of a first component and a second component having a boiling water shrinkage different from that of the first component. The combination method must be such that the fibers are crimped in a spiral shape or the like due to the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the first component and the second component. Specifically, a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type is adopted.

What is important in the present invention is that the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber must have crimping performance as shown below. That is, the elastic modulus after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 70% or more and the crimp ratio is
Must be at least 50%. Here, the elastic modulus after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is measured by the following method.
That is, the latent crimping composite type polyester fiber skeined five times with a measuring machine is doubled and suspended on a stand by applying a load of 1/6000 (g / D), and further 1/10 (g / D Apply the load of D) and measure the length (a). Then, the sample is left for 30 minutes with a load of 1/6000 (g / D) applied, and then kept in this state for 30 minutes in boiling water. Then air dry for 30 minutes,
A load of 1/500 (g / D) is applied and the length (b) is measured. Next, after removing the load of 1/500 (g / D), a load of 1/20 (g / D) is applied and the length (c) is measured. Furthermore, 1/20 (g /
Remove the load of D), apply a load of 1/500 (g / D) again, and measure the length (d). Then, the elastic modulus is calculated by the following formula. That is, elastic modulus (%) = [(cd)
/ (C-b)] × 100. Further, the crimping rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is obtained by the following equation using the length obtained above. That is, the crimp ratio (%) = [(c-
b) / c] × 100. In the present invention, the elastic modulus after the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber is treated with boiling water for 30 minutes is
When it is less than 70%, the elongation recovery of the polyester fiber after the crimping is low, and thus the elongation recovery of the obtained woven fabric is low, and it becomes difficult to impart good stretchability to the woven fabric.
If the crimp ratio of the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber after boiling water treatment for 30 minutes is less than 50%, the extensibility of the polyester fiber after crimping is poor, and thus the elongation of the resulting woven fabric is reduced. It also has poor properties and it becomes difficult to impart good stretchability to the woven fabric.

As the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber having the crimping performance as described above, generally, a polyester-based first component having a high intrinsic viscosity [η] and a polyester-based second component having a low intrinsic viscosity are used. A polyester fiber in which the components are joined side by side is used. Specifically, polyester-based fibers in which a polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75 or more and a second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.50 or less are side-by-side bonded are preferably used. sell. The polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.75 or more is obtained, for example, by using a polymer in which 85 mol% or more of structural units is polyethylene terephthalate and the other 15 mol% or less is another polyester. be able to. The second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.50 or less can be obtained by using, for example, a polymer in which 95 mol% of the structural unit is polyethylene terephthalate. The intrinsic viscosity [η] here is measured in a solvent of equal weight mixture of phenol and tetrachloroethane at 20 ° C.

The strongly twisted yarn made of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber is twisted in a twisting coefficient K of 10,000 to 25,000. Here, the twist coefficient K is represented by the following formula. That is, T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ) [where T represents the number of twists per 1 m of the yarn length, and D represents the denier number of the yarn. ] Is represented.
If the twist coefficient K is less than 10,000, the resulting woven fabric will not be able to obtain good stretchability with resilience, which is not preferable. In addition, uneven texture appears on the surface of the obtained woven fabric, and the tension and the stiffness of the resulting woven fabric deteriorate, which deteriorates the woven fabric quality, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient K exceeds 25,000, the texture of the strongly twisted yarn is hardened, and the weaving property is significantly deteriorated due to the generation of snare, which is not preferable. Further, this strongly twisted yarn is heat set after being twisted. If heat setting is not performed, due to the development of torque in the weaving process,
The strongly twisted yarns are entangled with each other and the weavability is deteriorated, which is not preferable. The heat setting is preferably performed at a temperature of 80 to 85 ° C. for a time of 30 to 45 minutes.

The strongly twisted yarn described above is used for either warp or weft, or for both warp and weft, to weave a woven fabric. Any conventionally known woven structure can be adopted as the woven structure. The woven fabric thus obtained is subjected to alkali reduction treatment. For the alkali reduction treatment, a conventionally known method can be appropriately adopted. In addition, it is desirable to perform relaxing scouring and, if necessary, presetting before the alkali reduction treatment. In the case of a woven fabric using a multifilament yarn as the strongly twisted yarn, a washer or the like is generally used during the relaxation treatment. In this alkali weight loss treatment,
The weight loss rate of the fabric is 5-40%. If the weight reduction rate is less than 5%, sufficient voids are not formed between the latently crimpable composite polyester fibers that form the strongly twisted yarn, and the latently crimpable composite is formed when the crimps appear later. The type polyester fibers are bound to each other, and sufficient crimping performance cannot be exhibited, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the weight loss rate exceeds 40%, the strength and tension and stiffness of the obtained woven fabric will be reduced, which is not practical.

After the alkali reduction treatment, a dyeing finishing process is performed. The dyeing / finishing process may be performed under conventionally known general conditions. However, at the time of dyeing and finishing, the temperature of the wet heat of 100 ° C. or higher must be applied to the fabric for at least 30 minutes. That is, the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber used in the present invention shows a predetermined elastic modulus and crimp rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. If the above is not given, the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber is not sufficiently crimped, and the predetermined elastic modulus and crimping rate cannot be obtained. Further, this dyeing and finishing process is preferably carried out using a jet dyeing machine or the like with a tension as low as possible. This is because if high tension is applied to the woven fabric, there is a risk that the crimp development may be hindered or the developed crimp may disappear. It should be noted that it is also preferable to add an elastic agent or the like to the woven fabric to improve the quality of the woven fabric during the finishing process as long as the physical properties, feeling, fastness and the like of the woven fabric are not adversely affected.

[0014]

【Example】

Example A polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] 0.76 (a polyester composed of 12 mol% of isophthalic acid component, 88 mol% of a terephthalic acid component and a diol component such as diethylene glycol) and a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity [η] 0.49. A side-by-side latent crimpable composite polyester fiber (filament) was obtained by a melt composite spinning method using the second system component. The elastic modulus of this latently crimpable composite polyester fiber was 80% after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes, and the crimp rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes was 69.5%. Then, this filament was bundled to obtain a multi-filament yarn of 50 denier / 12 filament. The multifilament yarn was twisted with a twist coefficient K of about 21000 and S, Z3000T / M, and then vacuum heat set at a temperature of 80 ° C. for a time of 40 minutes to obtain a strongly twisted yarn.

Using this strongly twisted yarn for warp and weft,
Georgette with a warp density of 110 threads / inch and a weft density of 80 threads / inch was woven. This georgette was wound with Andon, and 1 g / l of a carrier was also used, and a relaxation treatment was performed with a rotary washer at a temperature of 100 ° C. for a time of 20 minutes. Then caustic soda 1g / l and surfactant 1g / l
Using the solution in combination with, the solution was scoured with a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd. under conditions of a wet heat of 80 ° C. for a time of 20 minutes and dried. Then, using a tenter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd., dry heat without applying tension to both the warp and the weft.
Heat setting was performed at 180 ° C. for 20 seconds.
Then, apply alkali weight reduction treatment by the fishing method,
This Georgette was reduced by 23.5%.

Thereafter, a disperse dye solution having the following composition was used,
Using a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., dyeing was performed under the conditions of a humidity of 130 ° C. and a time of 30 minutes. Note Dianix Navyblue BG-SE (disperse dye manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 3.0% owf Sunsolt RZ-8 (leveling agent manufactured by Nichika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) 0.5g / l acetic acid (48%) 0.2cc / l After that, VISNOL P -70 (one-bath reducing detergent manufactured by Yatasha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 5g / l, wet heat at 80 ° C for 2 hours
After reducing and washing under the condition of 0 minutes, it was dried. Then, using a heat setter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd.,
Finishing set was carried out under conditions of dry heat of 170 ° C. and time of 20 seconds without applying tension on both the background and the background to obtain a plain dyeable stretchable fabric. The stretch rate, the stretch recovery rate, etc. of this stretchable fabric are as shown in Table 1, and showed good stretchability. In addition, as shown in Table 1, good tension, waist and elastic repulsion were exhibited, and the texture was also good.

[0017]

[Table 1] The measuring methods of the items described in Table 1 are as follows. 1) Elongation rate: Measured by applying a load of 1.5 kg based on JIS L-1018 method. 2) elongation recovery rate: the sample length l _0, applying a 1.5kg load based on JIS L-1018 method. Then, the sample is stretched to 80% of the elongation rate, the length of the sample is measured, and this length is set to l ₁ . In the stretched state, leave for 1 minute, then remove the weight and leave for 3 minutes. Then, the length of the sample is measured, and the length is set to l ₂ . Using the sample lengths l ₀ , l ₁ and l ₂ measured above,
The elongation recovery rate is calculated by the following formula. Growth recovery rate =
[(L ₁ -l ₂ ) / (l ₁ -l ₀ )] × 100 3) Elastic repulsion force: Using spandex yarn of the same denier, based on a spandex fabric woven with the same woven structure, It was judged by the sensory test as follows. ⊚: equivalent to spandex fabric, ∘: slightly inferior to spandex fabric, Δ: considerably inferior to spandex fabric, ×: extremely inferior to spandex fabric. 4) Tension and waist: Using a strongly twisted woven fabric having the same denier and different shrinkage, a strong twisted fabric woven with the same woven structure was used as a reference, and a sensory test was performed to judge as follows. ⊚: equivalent to the strong twist woven fabric, ◯: slightly inferior to the strong twist woven fabric, Δ: considerably inferior to the strong twist woven fabric, ×: extremely inferior to the strong twist woven fabric.

Comparative Example 1 A plain dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example, except that the multifilament yarn used in the example was woven without twisting and heat setting without twisting. The elongation rate and the like of this woven fabric are as shown in Table 1. As is clear from this result, the elongation rate and the elongation recovery rate showed almost the same values as those in the example, but lacked elastic repulsion force, and further lacked in tension and waist, and showed satisfactory stretchability. I didn't have it.

Comparative Example 2 A plain dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example except that the alkali reduction treatment was omitted. The elongation rate and the like of this woven fabric are as shown in Table 1. As is clear from this result, the elongation recovery rate and the tension and waist were almost the same as those in the examples,
It lacks in elongation rate and elastic resilience,
It did not have satisfactory stretch performance.

Comparative Example 3 A side-by-side latent crimpable composite polyester by a melt composite spinning method using a polyester-based first component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] 0.65 and a polyester-based second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] 0.49. A system fiber (filament) was obtained. The elastic modulus of this latently crimpable composite polyester fiber was 62% after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes, and the crimping rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes was 42%. Then, this filament was bundled to obtain a multi-filament yarn of 50 denier / 12 filament. Using this multifilament yarn, twisting and heat setting were performed in the same manner as in the example to obtain a strongly twisted yarn, and a plain dyed fabric was obtained in the same manner as in the example. As shown in Table 1, this woven fabric did not have sufficient stretchability.

[0021]

Industrial Applicability As described above, the method for producing a stretchable woven fabric according to the present invention is a latent crimpable composite polyester fiber having crimping performance exhibiting a specific high elastic modulus and a high crimping rate. After being twisted so as to have a constant twist coefficient, a woven fabric is woven using a heat-set strongly twisted yarn, and then the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber is crimped as described above. It is a method of expressing performance. Therefore,
The polyester fibers that make up the woven fabric exhibit a high elastic modulus and a high crimping ratio, and the twisting of a constant twisting factor causes the length of the actual yarn per unit length of the strongly twisted yarn to be sufficiently increased. Due to the synergistic effect of the two factors, the woven fabric exhibits high stretchability and high stretch recovery property, and has the effect of being excellent in stretchability. Further, since this woven fabric is composed of a strongly twisted yarn having a constant twist coefficient, it has an effect that it has good tension and waist and is also excellent in elastic repulsion.

Further, in the present invention, an important point is that the woven fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment before the crimping is manifested. By this treatment, the woven fabric has a good feel, and due to the structure of the strongly twisted yarn, finer voids are formed between the latently crimpable composite polyester fibers. Therefore, due to the presence of the voids, crimps are well expressed when the crimps are expressed. That is, the presence of the voids makes it difficult for adjacent latent crimpable composite polyester fibers to be bound to each other when the crimps appear. Therefore, the latent crimpable composite type polyester fiber can be sufficiently exerted without impairing the crimping performance, and the obtained woven fabric can be given high stretchability and high stretch recovery property. It is effective.

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Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A latent crimpable composite polyester fiber having a crimping performance of which the elastic modulus after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 70% or more and the crimping rate is 50% or more, and is represented by the following formula. After twisting the twist coefficient K in the range of 10000 to 25000, the heat-set strongly twisted yarn is woven into a woven fabric as warp and / or weft, and then the woven fabric is subjected to alkali reduction treatment to give the woven fabric with 5 to 5 40% reduction, and then the textile is subjected to a dyeing finishing process under the condition that a temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C or more is given for 30 minutes or more, and at this time, the latent crimpable composite polyester fiber constituting the textile. A method for producing a stretchable woven fabric, which comprises expressing the crimping performance in Note T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ) [where T represents the number of twists per 1 m of the yarn length, and D represents the denier number of the yarn. ]