JPH01162838A - High elongation polyester fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain the subject woven fabric developing no crimp after elongated, a thin woven fabric with high elongation and recovery and low residual strain by using polyester multifilament yarns as warps and specific polyester false-twist textured yarns as wefts. CONSTITUTION: This polyester woven fabric with an elongation of >=30% and the residual strain after elongation recovery of <=5% is obtained by weaving, as warps, polyester multifilament yarns each <=75 denier in fineness and, as wefts, polyester false-twist textured yarns each 7,000-18,000 in twist multiplier K, >=9% in percentage crimp Tc and >=120 turns/50 cm in boiling water torque Ts into a thin woven fabric <=120 g/m<2> in basis weight.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to high extensibility polyester fabrics.

(Prior art) In recent years, various functionalities have been required of clothing materials, and of course the texture of textiles is required, but among these functionalities, the demand for elasticity and its recovery is becoming stronger day by day. . In order to improve comfort when worn, fabrics that are soft, have excellent stretchability and stretch recovery performance, and have a delicate surface feel are required, especially for innerwear and blouses.

In order to meet these requirements, a number of knitted fabrics having stretchability have been proposed.6 Knitted fabrics are typical of garments having stretchability. Since knitted fabrics are formed from loose structures and loops, they have a structural storage function and can be easily imparted with elasticity even if the material does not have stretch properties. However, on the other hand, a drawback arising from the structure of the knitted fabric is that the stretch recovery properties are very poor.

On the other hand, in textiles, we use crimps such as false twisted yarn! ,
However, a fabric with sufficiently satisfactory stretchability could not be obtained. For this reason, weaving has been attempted with the weaving standard set to ffl<, but such Iil el has the disadvantage that rough grain appears on the surface, which significantly impairs the quality of the appearance.

Particularly, this drawback is noticeable in the case of thin fabrics.

Unlike knitted fabrics, woven fabrics have features in terms of elegance and quality, such as dimensional stability and texture (firmness, stiffness, drape), and there is a strong demand to take advantage of these features and further provide them with even more elasticity. There is.

Therefore, in order to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks, a method has been proposed in which a material having excellent elasticity such as polyurethane thread or rubber elastic thread is used.

However, these elastic threads are expensive and due to problems with physical properties, they are used alone for very limited special purposes, and when used in a stable state, they have little elasticity. It cannot be used unless it is made into a composite yarn whose expansion and contraction is controlled by using plied yarn or covering yarn, which is not only extremely inefficient, but also causes an increase in cost and a decrease in functionality. Ta. Moreover, in order to obtain a thin fabric (with a basis weight of 120./rd or less), which is the object of the present invention, it is not only difficult to use such a composite yarn, but also it is difficult to use such a composite yarn, and it also has problems in terms of quality such as weft sagging and elastic width. There are drawbacks such as unevenness and surface graining, and a fully satisfactory fabric with high elasticity in the weft direction has not been obtained.

In addition, stretch wA products using simply false-twisted crimped yarn are known, but they have poor stretch performance, and thin fabrics have high seams on the surface and a high strain rate, and thin fabrics have a strain rate of 30% or more. It is not possible to obtain a fabric with a residual strain rate of 5% or less.

(Purpose of the invention) The object of the present invention is to improve such conventional drawbacks and to propose a thin, highly stretchable polyester fabric that has a high elongation rate and a low residual strain rate after recovery from elongation, and does not wrinkle on the surface. There is a particular thing.

(Structure of the Invention) In the present invention, a polyester multifilament yarn having a thickness of 75 de or less is used as the warp, and a polyester false twisted yarn is used as the weft, and the twist coefficient is K.

Use the crimp rate T c and spring water Ts that satisfy the range of the following formula! Th basis weight is 120g7'rrf'
A highly extensible polyester woven fabric having the following characteristics, the woven fabric having an elongation rate of 30% or more and a residual strain rate after recovery from elongation of 5% or less.

The warp used in the present invention is an important component that determines the feel of the fabric of the present invention. First, is the I11 material finishing weight of the present invention 120g/rr? Since it is a thin fabric as shown below, the sewing thread should be 75 de or less, preferably 30 to 50 de.
A fine polyester multifilament yarn in the range of .

In addition, the polyester multificiemen 1 to 1 series have a single filament denier of 3. The polyester multifilament yarn, which is preferably less than Ode, may have an irregular cross-sectional shape.

Next, the weft used in the present invention has a crimp rate Tc of
≧9 (%) and the developed torque Ts or T' in boiling water
s≧120, 150an or more, preferably Ts≧20
In the present invention, it is important to use a polyester false-twisted yarn with a diameter of 150 (2).8 In the present invention, Tc and Ts are measured as follows.

Crimp rate 'I' c 5 to 10 to the total frame while applying a load of Ig/de to the test yarn
After winding the yarn, a load of 0.1 z/de was applied to the total De of the yarn, and its length was measured.
After applying a load and immersing it in boiling water for 20 minutes, dry it, measure the total length at that time, and calculate the shrinkage rate (%). Total length at 0.1 g/de load = 7'.

0.2 g after processing, 'da Kahira's president:! 1 Tc (%) = -x 100 Flood Torque Ts The method for measuring flood torque Ts is to place 110 to 150 an of the false twisted yarn as a sample in a chamber, and place a 0.0 mm in the center of the sample.
To apply a load of 1 q/da, secure both sides of the sample with clips or adhesive tape so that the sample is divided into two equal parts.

The sample (with a load of 0.01 ir/de still applied) is then immersed in boiling water for 20 minutes, and then hung to dry.

The load is removed from the dried sample, and the number of twists at 50 strands is measured using a twister.

The number of twists obtained is proportional to the torque developed in boiling water.
It is determined as Ts - number of twists 150 (to). The false twisted yarn having the limp rate Tc and the spring water torque Ts is as follows:
This can be obtained by using a material with a high false twist coefficient in the range of 31.000 to 43.000, and after false twisting, additional twisting is performed in the opposite direction to the heating direction during false twisting. In order for the spring water torque Ts to satisfy the above range, the twist coefficient K for additional twisting must be 18,000≧≧7.000 [However, K = 'T'轡、D
: Weft thickness (denier)] must be satisfied. If K is less than 7,000, it will not be possible to obtain the diving I/Lux Ts used in the present invention, and if K is more than 18,000, surface wrinkles will occur due to double twisting, which is not preferable.

In order to obtain a thin fabric (with a basis weight of 120 g/rr? or less), which is the aim of the present invention, it is natural to use a fine De polyester multifilament I-yarn with a weft thickness of 100 De or less, preferably 50 to 75 De. That's true.

In addition, there is something K that affects the elongation rate of the fabric: the fabric structure. Basically, the fabric structure should be one that allows the weft yarns, which have elastic properties, to work easily, such as satin, twill big,
Examples include some jacquard fibers.

The fabric elongation rate is largely contributed by the weft and weave structure, but there is another factor.
One important contributing factor is textile standards. In particular, in order to obtain a "clean surface without wrinkles" which is the object of the present invention, it is necessary to increase the finishing density, especially the finishing density of the warp yarns.

In order to exhibit the extensibility of the weft yarns, there is an appropriate range of warp yarn density.

CF (cover factor = F 11 x number/inch)
The object of the present invention is achieved when the following two relationships are simultaneously satisfied when the density of the warp and weft threads is expressed in the gray and finished states.

f CF wp-F CF wp-Q ) (1)
8CF = x100≧30(%
)wp CFkao-a CF,,4 (of △CF[= x100≧60
(%) CF,,vo-F+CFwf-F However, :CF, : Warp density of gray fabric WO-riCF ・Warp density of finished fabric vp-F ゛:CF : Sewing thread density of gray fabric rf-G CF or f-F The weft density of two-finished fabrics (the equation shows the change in warp density from gray to finished fabrics, 80Fw) is less than 30%, the elongation rate is 30%.
It is difficult to obtain more than %. Preferably, the range is 30 to 50%, and if it exceeds 50%, surface wrinkles tend to appear, which is not preferable.

Moreover, the formula (■) shows the ratio of the warp density to the finishing density, and represents the warp coverage ratio necessary to make the grain latent. According to the present invention, in order to make a fabric with a "clean surface elongation rate of 30% or more", 8CF is 60%.
or more, and a range of preferably 65 to 75% is appropriate. When it approaches 80%, the elongation rate decreases, the fabric weight increases extremely, and the number of warp threads becomes extremely large, which is not preferable in the production of thin fabrics.

(Function of the invention) The thin fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, so that conventional thin fabric; High extensibility of
A product can be obtained.

That is, &lJ of the present invention is that even though the elongation rate is as high as described above, no wrinkles are generated on the surface of the fabric after elongation.

In the present invention, the elongation rate and residual strain rate are measured as follows.

Elongation/residual strain rate Three samples of width 5.5cm x 30 pieces were taken in the weft direction of the fabric, and the same number of wefts were removed from both sides of the width to make it 5an, and then the sample was placed on a 20cm test table LO. Mark and fix the upper part of the test piece, then weigh 1.5k including the weight of the lower part.
Immediately after lifting the load f, 10/I+, the distance between the marks L,
Measure. From the obtained data, the expansion rate is determined by the following formula: -L.

Elongation rate (%) - xlooo O Next, how to find the residual strain rate is 1.5K after measuring the interval L1,
After removing the sample from the load and the upper fixture and leaving the specimen on a horizontal table for 60 minutes, measure the interval L2 between the marks. From the obtained tenter, the strain rate is determined by the following formula:

Residual strain rate (%n = x100O (Example) A polyester multifilament yarn with a thickness of 5QdL/36fil was twisted at 300T/M as the warp, and 50de as the weft. / 24f i
A polyester multifilament yarn of I was used on a spindle false twisting machine, with a twist coefficient of 35,000 and a heater temperature of 230°C.

The false twisted yarn K was subjected to false twisting at a yarn speed of 150 m/min and an overfeed rate of 2%, and additional twisting was performed in the opposite direction to the false twisting direction to various twist coefficients. Using extra-twisted yarn that has undergone a false twist process,
Five sheets were woven into a satin weave according to the fabric specifications shown in the table, and then subjected to a conventional dyeing and finishing process to obtain a highly stretchable fabric.

In the examples shown in Table 1, highly elongated fabrics were obtained, and no grains were formed on the surface even after elongation.

Patent applicant Teijin Kaisha Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A polyester multifilament yarn with a thickness of 75 de or less is used as the warp, a polyester false twisted yarn is used as the weft, and the twist coefficient K, crimp rate Tc, and boiling water torque Ts are within the range of the following formula. A thin fabric with a fabric weight of 120 g/m^2 or less is used, and the fabric has an elongation rate of 30% or more and a residual strain rate of 5% or less after recovery from elongation. Highly stretchable polyester fabric. [However, Tc≧9(%) Ts≧120 (times/50cm) 18,000≧K≧7,000]