JP7562917B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents
Cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP7562917B2 JP7562917B2 JP2020131567A JP2020131567A JP7562917B2 JP 7562917 B2 JP7562917 B2 JP 7562917B2 JP 2020131567 A JP2020131567 A JP 2020131567A JP 2020131567 A JP2020131567 A JP 2020131567A JP 7562917 B2 JP7562917 B2 JP 7562917B2
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- Prior art keywords
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- cosmetic
- hlb
- aqueous layer
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 123
- -1 polyoxyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 71
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 36
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 36
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000006353 oxyethylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- ZVUNTIMPQCQCAQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-dodecanoyloxyethyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC ZVUNTIMPQCQCAQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- MQFYRUGXOJAUQK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-(2-octadecanoyloxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOCCOCCOCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC MQFYRUGXOJAUQK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 68
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 63
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 60
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 59
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 59
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 34
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 34
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 25
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 16
- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 16
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 15
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 13
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 12
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 10
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 9
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 9
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 8
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 8
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 150000005215 alkyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000007711 solidification Methods 0.000 description 7
- 230000008023 solidification Effects 0.000 description 7
- ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO ASKIVFGGGGIGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 5
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecahydrosqualene Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FPVVYTCTZKCSOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol distearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FPVVYTCTZKCSOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 description 4
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 4
- 239000006103 coloring component Substances 0.000 description 4
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229940100608 glycol distearate Drugs 0.000 description 4
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000001139 pH measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 4
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920001214 Polysorbate 60 Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940074052 glyceryl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 3
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920000259 polyoxyethylene lauryl ether Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920002503 polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229940058015 1,3-butylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(2-ethylhexoxy)propane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COCC(O)CO NCZPCONIKBICGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004909 Moisturizer Substances 0.000 description 2
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Myristic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920001213 Polysorbate 20 Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940100524 ethylhexylglycerin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- GTABBGRXERZUAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol;2-methyloxirane;oxirane Chemical compound C1CO1.CC1CO1.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GTABBGRXERZUAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 2
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 2
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010486 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000001818 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010989 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N (3-decanoyloxy-2,2-dimethylpropyl) decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC BJDAUCLANVMIOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N (6E,10E,14E,18E)-2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosa-2,6,10,14,18,22-hexaene Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N (z)-1-[(z)-octadec-9-enoxy]octadec-9-ene Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JSOVGYMVTPPEND-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C JSOVGYMVTPPEND-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QOOALSWUUBYFCT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-(7-methyloctanoyloxy)propoxy]propyl 7-methyloctanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)OCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCC(C)C QOOALSWUUBYFCT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALVGIJJKUWXGCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOCCOCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ALVGIJJKUWXGCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WMPGRAUYWYBJKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO WMPGRAUYWYBJKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)CCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DJMBNBIFHBZPFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(7-methyloctanoyloxy)butyl 7-methyloctanoate Chemical compound C(CCCCCC(C)C)(=O)OCCC(C)OC(CCCCCC(C)C)=O DJMBNBIFHBZPFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019489 Almond oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001534 FEMA 4201 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002884 Laureth 4 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241000208467 Macadamia Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000021360 Myristic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palmitinsaeure-octylester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCC OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002701 Polyoxyl 40 Stearate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019774 Rice Bran oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019485 Safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BHEOSNUKNHRBNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tetramethylsqualene Natural products CC(=C)C(C)CCC(=C)C(C)CCC(C)=CCCC=C(C)CCC(C)C(=C)CCC(C)C(C)=C BHEOSNUKNHRBNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GCSPRLPXTPMSTL-IBDNADADSA-N [(2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-bis(hydroxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl] dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@]1([C@]2(CO)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GCSPRLPXTPMSTL-IBDNADADSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N [(2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-bis(hydroxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl] hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@]1([C@]2(CO)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CMPDPBDUZTUXAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N [3-hydroxy-2-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)propyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CO)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C CMPDPBDUZTUXAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012190 activator Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000008168 almond oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000001166 anti-perspirative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003213 antiperspirant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000017531 blood circulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004581 coalescence Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002826 coolant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000005690 diesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000032050 esterification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylhexyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(CC)CCCCC GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002070 germicidal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000008169 grapeseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940070765 laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031726 laureth-10 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940062711 laureth-9 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940105132 myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FBUKVWPVBMHYJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(O)=O FBUKVWPVBMHYJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940049964 oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032067 peg-20 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940023750 peg-60 glyceryl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940032051 peg-8 distearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ONJQDTZCDSESIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N polidocanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO ONJQDTZCDSESIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940097941 polyglyceryl-10 laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940061570 polyglyceryl-10 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010483 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000249 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940113124 polysorbate 60 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000001267 polyvinylpyrrolidone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002244 precipitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008165 rice bran oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000004671 saturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000005472 straight-chain saturated fatty acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 235000020238 sunflower seed Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、多層液状化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to a multi-layered liquid cosmetic.
油層-水層の二層からなる液状化粧料(特許文献1参照)、あるいは不溶性の粉末を含有する水層-粉末層からなる液状化粧料や、さらには水層-油層-粉末層などの三層以上の層からなる多層液状化粧料(特許文献2参照)が知られている。これらの多層の液状化粧料は、使用前の外観が複数の層に分離している状態である。そして使用時には、振とうして一時的に全体を均一な乳化状態あるいは、混合状態の化粧料溶液とし、これを肌に塗布して使用する。使用後には、静置することによって再び多層となる。 Liquid cosmetics consisting of two layers, an oil layer and an aqueous layer (see Patent Document 1), liquid cosmetics consisting of an aqueous layer and a powder layer containing an insoluble powder, and even multi-layer liquid cosmetics consisting of three or more layers, such as an aqueous layer, an oil layer and a powder layer (see Patent Document 2) are known. These multi-layer liquid cosmetics have an appearance of being separated into multiple layers before use. When used, they are shaken to temporarily turn the entire product into a uniform emulsion or mixed cosmetic solution, which is then applied to the skin. After use, they are allowed to stand and re-form into a multi-layered solution.
最も一般的な多層液状化粧料は、乳化していない油層及び水層からなる、異なる特性を持つ液からなる境界面を持った二層化粧料である。このような二層化粧料は、一般的に油層又は水層のいずれかの層に着色を行うか、両方の層を異なる色に着色して両層の界面の境界を明瞭にし、外観の美しさを強調する。さらに沈降性の粉末を含有させることで三層の化粧料とすることもできる。このような二層又は三層化粧料は、多層であるという外観特徴を活かした製品とするために、透明な容器に充填して用いられることが多い。透明な容器に充填された内容物は、紫外線や蛍光灯などにさらされることで着色成分の退色が少なからず生じる。この為、その対策に余計な手間がかかることが問題であった。また、層間の界面を明瞭にするために着色成分を過剰に配合すると、皮膚への着色や衣類の汚染が問題となることがあった。
さらにまた、乳化していない油層及び水層の二層からなる液状化粧料では、油層と水層が分離しやすいため、皮膚や髪に塗布すると直ちにエモリエント感を得やすいが、塗布している最中から肌上や毛髪上で油性感を感じてしまうため、塗布中にみずみずしい感触が得られないことが多かった。そして、この油層及び水層からなる二層化粧料の油層に、さらに保湿持続効果を期待して、固形状やペースト状の油剤を配合すると、長期保管において、油層中に結晶の析出が生じたり、油層そのものが固化したりして、品質を保つことが難しくなるのでほとんど配合されてこなかった。このように、油層及び水層からなる二層化粧料は、一般に、塗布時のみずみずしい感触や、塗布後の高い保湿持続効果、そして外観の安定性を得ることが困難であるといわれてきた。
The most common multi-layer liquid cosmetic is a two-layer cosmetic having an interface between liquids with different properties, consisting of an unemulsified oil layer and an aqueous layer. In such a two-layer cosmetic, either the oil layer or the aqueous layer is generally colored, or both layers are colored in different colors to clarify the interface between the two layers and emphasize the beauty of the appearance. Furthermore, a three-layer cosmetic can be made by adding a sedimentary powder. Such two-layer or three-layer cosmetic is often filled in a transparent container to make a product that takes advantage of the appearance characteristic of being multi-layered. When the contents filled in a transparent container are exposed to ultraviolet rays or fluorescent lights, the coloring components fade to a certain extent. For this reason, it is problematic that measures against this require extra effort. In addition, when an excessive amount of coloring components is added to make the interface between the layers clear, it can cause problems such as coloring of the skin and staining of clothes.
Furthermore, in liquid cosmetics consisting of two layers, an unemulsified oil layer and an aqueous layer, the oil layer and the aqueous layer are easily separated, so that when applied to the skin or hair, it is easy to get an emollient feeling immediately, but since an oily feeling is felt on the skin or hair during application, it is often the case that a fresh feeling is not obtained during application. And, if a solid or paste-like oil agent is blended into the oil layer of this two-layer cosmetic consisting of an oil layer and an aqueous layer in the hope of further improving the moisturizing effect, crystals may precipitate in the oil layer or the oil layer itself may solidify during long-term storage, making it difficult to maintain the quality, and therefore, it has rarely been blended. Thus, it has generally been said that it is difficult for two-layer cosmetics consisting of an oil layer and an aqueous layer to obtain a fresh feeling when applied, a high moisturizing effect after application, and a stable appearance.
一方、乳化層及び水層の二層からなる液状化粧料が提案されている(特許文献3、特許文献4参照)。これらの化粧料は、乳化層が乳白色となるため、着色成分を配合しなくても、乳化層と水層の層間の界面の境界が分かるため、着色成分による問題は発生しなくなった。 On the other hand, liquid cosmetics consisting of two layers, an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, have been proposed (see Patent Documents 3 and 4). In these cosmetics, the emulsion layer is milky white, so even without blending coloring components, the boundary between the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer is visible, and problems caused by coloring components no longer occur.
さらに、乳化層及び水層の二層からなる液状化粧料は、塗布中のみずみずしさも解決してきた。つまり、乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料は、振とうすると乳化層が容易に水層に分散して、一時的に全体が均一化するが、この均一化した化粧料は、塗布している最中にみずみずしい使用感を与えた。そして含有する油分は、乳化層において乳化されているため、さらなる保湿効果を期待して固形状やペースト状の油剤を配合しても、油層-水層型の二層化粧料と比べて、長期保管において、結晶の析出が生じにくいことが期待できた。このように、二層化粧料の一つの層を乳化層とすることで、塗布時のみずみずしい使用感の確保と、保湿効果の持続性を高めたバリエーション化は、ある程度可能となった。
しかし、乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料は、使用時に振とうして一時的な均一状態にした後、一定時間の静置で、すみやかに元の乳化層と水層の二層状態に分離させることと、乳化層を経時的に安定させることの両立が難しいと言われている。例えば、二層化粧料を静置すると、乳化粒子が凝集して、クリーミングを起こして乳化層が分離して二層になるが、乳化層の安定性の確保が不十分な設計(ここでは特に乳化粒子の合一が頻繁に生じて、乳化粒子が大きくなりつづける設計)であると、乳化層からさらに油層が分離した三層分離を起こし美観を損ねるだけでなく、油剤によっては分離した油層の固化などの問題を生じた。乳化層の乳化安定性を高めようと増粘剤や界面活性剤等を多く配合すると、二層の分離速度が遅くなりやすく問題であった(第一の問題)。これとは別に、原因は不明であるが、乳化層の一部が水層に残留して水層に濁りが生じたり、境界が不鮮明になったりすることがあった(第二の問題)。この状態は分離しているとはいえ二層化粧料として外観が美しいとは言い難い。この水層の濁りに関しては、分離速度を遅くした方が、下層の濁りが生じにくいことが知られている。よって第二の問題を抱える乳化層及び水層からなる液状二層化粧料は、一般的に、水層の透明性を確保するために分離速度が遅いか、分離速度を優先させて分離後の水層の濁りが強いか、いずれかの問題が指摘されている。
つまり、乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料においては、乳化層からさらに油層が分離する三層分離の問題、油剤によっては分離した油層の固化などの問題、水層の濁りの問題が、単独あるいは複合して発生する頻度が高く、その処方設計は容易ではなかった。これらすべてを解決し、適切な分離速度の美しい外観の化粧料を得ることに加えて、化粧料として良好な使用感も必須の品質要件となるので、従来技術では、処方設計者は過度な試行錯誤が必要であった。
Furthermore, liquid cosmetics consisting of two layers, an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, have also solved the problem of freshness during application. In other words, when a two-layer cosmetic consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer is shaken, the emulsion layer easily disperses into the aqueous layer, temporarily homogenizing the entire cosmetic, and this homogenized cosmetic gives a fresh feeling of use during application. Furthermore, since the oil contained is emulsified in the emulsion layer, even if a solid or paste-like oil agent is blended in the cosmetic in hopes of further moisturizing effects, it is expected that crystal precipitation will be less likely to occur during long-term storage compared to two-layer cosmetics of oil-aqueous layer type. In this way, by making one layer of a two-layer cosmetic into an emulsion layer, it has become possible to some extent to ensure a fresh feeling of use during application and to vary the product with improved durability of moisturizing effects.
However, it is said that it is difficult to simultaneously achieve a two-layer cosmetic composition consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, which is shaken when used to temporarily create a uniform state, and then left to stand for a certain period of time to quickly separate into the original two-layer state of the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer, and to stabilize the emulsion layer over time. For example, when a two-layer cosmetic composition is left to stand, the emulsion particles aggregate, causing creaming, and the emulsion layer separates into two layers, but if the design does not sufficiently ensure the stability of the emulsion layer (particularly in this case, a design in which the emulsion particles frequently coalesce and the emulsion particles continue to grow), not only does it cause a three-layer separation in which the oil layer is separated from the emulsion layer, damaging the aesthetic appearance, but also causes problems such as solidification of the separated oil layer depending on the oil agent. When a large amount of thickeners, surfactants, etc. are added to increase the emulsion stability of the emulsion layer, the separation speed of the two layers tends to slow down, which is a problem (first problem). In addition to this, for unknown reasons, part of the emulsion layer may remain in the aqueous layer, causing the aqueous layer to become cloudy or the boundary to become unclear (second problem). Although the two-layer cosmetic composition in this state is separated, it is difficult to say that the appearance of the composition is beautiful. It is known that the cloudiness of the water layer is reduced by slowing down the separation speed. Therefore, it has been pointed out that liquid two-layer cosmetic compositions consisting of an emulsion layer and a water layer, which have the second problem, generally have one of two problems: either the separation speed is slow in order to ensure the transparency of the water layer, or the water layer becomes very cloudy after separation because the separation speed is prioritized.
In other words, in two-layer cosmetics consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, the problems of three-layer separation, in which an oil layer separates from the emulsion layer, problems such as solidification of the separated oil layer depending on the oil agent, and problems of turbidity of the aqueous layer frequently occur individually or in combination, and it was not easy to design the formulation. In addition to solving all of these problems and obtaining a cosmetic with a beautiful appearance and an appropriate separation speed, a good usability as a cosmetic is also an essential quality requirement, so in the conventional technology, the formulation designer was required to go through excessive trial and error.
なお特許文献5~7には、保存安定性の良い、乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料が記載されている。しかしいずれも十分ではない。特許文献5及び6に開示された化粧料は、振とうして混合した後、分離に時間を要し、分離後の水層に濁りを生じやすいことが指摘されている。また、特許文献7の化粧料は、油剤の配合量が少なく、化粧料に必要な保湿性に欠けており、さらに振とう後に、下層の水層の透明性が向上するまでには静置後一定の時間を要することが指摘されている。
特許文献8には、リン脂質と水溶性高分子を必須成分とする二層の分離速度の早い、乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料が記載されている。
Patent documents 5 to 7 describe two-layer cosmetics consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, which have good storage stability. However, none of them are satisfactory. It has been pointed out that the cosmetics disclosed in Patent documents 5 and 6 require a long time for separation after mixing by shaking, and the aqueous layer after separation is likely to become cloudy. In addition, it has been pointed out that the cosmetic of Patent document 7 contains a small amount of oil, and thus lacks the moisturizing properties required for cosmetics. Furthermore, it has been pointed out that after shaking, a certain amount of time is required for the transparency of the lower aqueous layer to improve after standing.
Patent Document 8 describes a two-layer cosmetic composition that contains phospholipids and a water-soluble polymer as essential components and that is composed of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer and that separates quickly into two layers.
本発明は、乳化層及び水層からなる多層液状化粧料において、振とうして混合させた後の分離速度が早く、分離後の水層の透明性が高く、しかも化粧料の塗布時のみずみずしい感触と、塗布後の優れたエモリエント感を持ち、さらに保存安定性の良い化粧料を提供することを課題とする。 The present invention aims to provide a multi-layer liquid cosmetic composition consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, which has a fast separation speed after mixing by shaking, a high transparency of the aqueous layer after separation, a fresh feel when applied, an excellent emollient feel after application, and good storage stability.
本発明は、次の構成からなる。
(1)下記成分(A)~(C)を含有する多層液状化粧料。
(A)オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50以上300以下であるポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステル
(B)成分(A)と異なる非イオン性界面活性剤であって、HLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤
(C)25℃で液状の油剤
(2)成分(A)が炭素数12~18の直鎖飽和脂肪酸とポリエチレングリコールのジエステルである(1)に記載の多層液状化粧料。
(3)化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比が、(A):(B)=1:1~1:20である(1)又は(2)に記載の多層液状化粧料。
The present invention comprises the following configuration.
(1) A multi-layered liquid cosmetic composition comprising the following components (A) to (C):
(A) a polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester having an average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added of 50 or more and 300 or less; (B) a nonionic surfactant different from component (A) and having an HLB of 12 or more; (C) an oily agent that is liquid at 25°C; (2) the multi-layered liquid cosmetic composition according to (1), wherein component (A) is a diester of a linear saturated fatty acid having 12 to 18 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycol.
(3) A multi-layered liquid cosmetic according to (1) or (2), in which the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetic is (A):(B) = 1:1 to 1:20.
本発明の多層液状化粧料は、振とうするだけで均一に混合又は乳化状態となり、使用後は、1時間程度静置するだけで、乳化層と水層に速やかに分離する。分離後の境界面は明瞭である。したがって着色せずに層の明瞭な違いを確認できる。また水層は、濁りや浮遊物のない透明状態となる。分離後の水層の透明性が高いため、美的な面からも優れた化粧料として消費者に好ましく提供できる。
また、本発明の化粧料中に含有される(C)成分の油剤は、乳化層内に安定な状態で存在するため、使用に際しては、塗布中に油剤による油性感(べたつき感)を感じさせずに、みずみずしい使用感を与え、塗布後に好ましいエモリエント感(しっとり感)を肌や毛髪に与える化粧料となる。
さらにまた、二層に分離後の乳化層の乳化状態は、極めて安定であって、50℃の環境下に1ヶ月以上保管した後も、結晶の析出や油の層の出現(三層化)、乳化層の固化が発生しない。
The multi-layered liquid cosmetic of the present invention becomes uniformly mixed or emulsified simply by shaking, and after use, it quickly separates into an emulsified layer and an aqueous layer simply by leaving it to stand for about 1 hour. The boundary surface after separation is clear. Therefore, the clear difference between the layers can be confirmed without coloring. In addition, the aqueous layer becomes transparent without turbidity or suspended matter. Since the aqueous layer after separation is highly transparent, it can be provided to consumers as an aesthetically excellent cosmetic.
In addition, the oily agent of component (C) contained in the cosmetic of the present invention is present in a stable state within the emulsion layer, and therefore, upon application, the cosmetic gives a fresh feel to the skin and hair without causing an oily (sticky) feeling due to the oily agent, and after application, the cosmetic gives a pleasant emollient (moist) feeling to the skin and hair.
Furthermore, the emulsified state of the emulsion layer after separation into two layers is extremely stable, and even after storage in an environment of 50°C for one month or more, no crystal precipitation, no appearance of an oily layer (three layers), or solidification of the emulsion layer occurs.
本発明は、振とうするだけで均一に混合又は乳化状態となり、使用後は、1時間程度静置するだけで乳化層と水層とに明瞭に分離し、水層が透明となる化粧料である。なお本発明でいう透明とは、直径4.5cmの透明なガラス瓶に充填し、1日静置後に白濁や浮遊物が肉眼で観察されない状態をいう。
本発明の多層液状化粧料が含有する成分について説明する。
The present invention is a cosmetic preparation which becomes uniformly mixed or emulsified simply by shaking, and after use, is clearly separated into an emulsified layer and an aqueous layer by leaving it to stand for about 1 hour, and the aqueous layer becomes transparent. Note that, in the present invention, "transparent" refers to a state in which no turbidity or suspended matter is observed with the naked eye after filling a transparent glass bottle with a diameter of 4.5 cm and leaving it to stand for 1 day.
The components contained in the multi-layered liquid cosmetic of the present invention will now be described.
<成分(A):オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50以上300以下であるポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステル>
ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルを構成する脂肪酸は、炭素数10~20の脂肪酸が好ましく、さらに好ましくは炭素数10~18の脂肪酸であり、特に好ましくは炭素数12~18の脂肪酸である。また、この構成する脂肪酸は飽和、不飽和、直鎖、分岐鎖のいずれでもよいが、特に直鎖状飽和脂肪酸が好ましい。さらに、脂肪酸は各種脂肪酸の混合物である混合脂肪酸でもよい。
具体的な脂肪酸としては、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、イソステアリン酸、オレイン酸、ヤシ油脂肪酸等が挙げられる。好ましくは、ラウリン酸、ステアリン酸であり、特にステアリン酸が好ましい。
<Component (A): Polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester having an average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added of 50 to 300>
The fatty acid constituting the polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester is preferably a fatty acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably a fatty acid having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a fatty acid having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid constituting the polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester may be saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain, or branched, with straight-chain saturated fatty acids being particularly preferred. Furthermore, the fatty acid may be a mixed fatty acid which is a mixture of various fatty acids.
Specific examples of the fatty acid include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, etc. Preferred are lauric acid and stearic acid, and particularly preferred is stearic acid.
ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルを構成するポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数は、50~300であり、75~250が好ましく、150~250がさらに好ましい。さらに一層好ましくは150~190である。ポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数が50未満である場合、本発明の化粧料において、乳化層及び水層の二層に分離した水層の透明性が低下する。また経時安定性にも不具合を生じる場合がある。ポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数が300を超える場合、乳化層と水層を振とうして混合させたあとの分離速度の低下を引き起こす場合がある。また経時安定性にも悪影響を及ぼす場合がある。また本発明において(A)成分は、成分の特性上、ポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数が小さくなるほど多く含有させる必要があり、ポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数が大きくなるほど少量含有させるだけで効果を発揮する。したがって、処方設計において、使用感も含めて処方のバリエーション化が調整しやいのは、好ましくはポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルを構成するポリオキシエチレン鎖のエチレンオキサイドの平均付加モル数が150~250である。
本発明に用いる成分(A):オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50以上300以下であるポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルのHLBは12以上であり、好ましくは15以上である。より好ましくはHLB16~19.5であると好ましい。
本発明に使用するポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルとしては、ジステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコール、ジラウリン酸ポリエチレングリコール等のポリオキシエチレン直鎖飽和脂肪酸ジエステル、ジオレイン酸ポリエチレングリコール等のポリオキシエチレン不飽和脂肪酸ジエステル、さらにはジイソステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコール等のポリオキシエチレン分岐脂肪酸ジエステルを挙げることができる。なかでも、二層に分離した後の水層の透明性を高める効果が高いジステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコール、ジラウリン酸ポリエチレングリコールが好ましく、ジステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコールが特に好ましい。市販されている界面活性剤であるジステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコールとしては、NIKKOL CDS-6000P(化粧品成分表示名称:ジステアリン酸PEG-150 日光ケミカルズ株式会社製、HLB16.5)、エマルミン862(化粧品表示名称:ジステアリン酸PEG-190 三洋化成工業株式会社製、HLB18)、エマノーン3299RV(化粧品表示名称:ジステアリン酸PEG-250 花王株式会社製、HLB19.2)を挙げることができる。化粧品表示名称において、PEGの後ろの数字は、オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数を示す。
The average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain constituting the polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester is 50 to 300, preferably 75 to 250, and more preferably 150 to 250. Even more preferably, it is 150 to 190. When the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain is less than 50, the transparency of the aqueous layer separated into two layers, the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer, in the cosmetic of the present invention decreases. In addition, problems may occur in the stability over time. When the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain exceeds 300, the separation speed after the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer are mixed by shaking may decrease. In addition, the stability over time may be adversely affected. In addition, in the present invention, the smaller the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain, the more the component (A) needs to be contained, and when the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain is larger, the effect is exhibited by only a small amount of the component. Therefore, in terms of formulation design, the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added to the polyoxyethylene chain constituting the polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester is preferably 150 to 250, which makes it easier to adjust the variations in the formulation, including the feeling of use.
The component (A) used in the present invention: a polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester having an average added mole number of oxyethylene groups of 50 or more and 300 or less, has an HLB of 12 or more, preferably 15 or more, and more preferably an HLB of 16 to 19.5.
Examples of the polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester used in the present invention include polyoxyethylene linear saturated fatty acid diesters such as polyethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol dilaurate, polyoxyethylene unsaturated fatty acid diesters such as polyethylene glycol dioleate, and further polyoxyethylene branched fatty acid diesters such as polyethylene glycol diisostearate. Among them, polyethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol dilaurate, which are highly effective in increasing the transparency of the aqueous layer after separation into two layers, are preferred, and polyethylene glycol distearate is particularly preferred. Examples of commercially available polyethylene glycol distearate surfactants include NIKKOL CDS-6000P (cosmetic ingredient name: PEG-150 distearate, manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., HLB 16.5), Emulmin 862 (cosmetic ingredient name: PEG-190 distearate, manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd., HLB 18), and Emanon 3299RV (cosmetic ingredient name: PEG-250 distearate, manufactured by Kao Corporation, HLB 19.2). In the cosmetic ingredient name, the number after PEG indicates the average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added.
成分(A)は、本発明の化粧料中に、1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができる。
本発明において、成分(A)の含有量は、化粧料全量に対して、0.005~2質量%であり、好ましくは0.01~1質量%、より好ましくは0.01~0.4質量%である。2質量%を超えると分離速度の低下や、経時で乳化層が固化する恐れが高まる。0.005質量%に満たないと、水層の透明性に効果が得られなくなる恐れが高まる。振とうしてから静置し2時間経過後の外観観察において、分離した水層の外観を、より濁りのないものにするためには、成分(A)の含有量は、化粧料全量に対して、0.03質量%以上とすることが好ましく、より好ましくは0.03~0.4質量%、より一層好ましくは0.05~0.4質量%である。
Component (A) may be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention either alone or in combination of two or more.
In the present invention, the content of component (A) is 0.005 to 2% by mass, preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.01 to 0.4% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If it exceeds 2% by mass, there is a high possibility that the separation speed will decrease and the emulsion layer will solidify over time. If it is less than 0.005% by mass, there is a high possibility that the transparency of the aqueous layer will not be improved. In order to make the appearance of the separated aqueous layer less cloudy when observed after shaking and leaving it to stand for 2 hours, the content of component (A) is preferably 0.03% by mass or more, more preferably 0.03 to 0.4% by mass, and even more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
<成分(B):HLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤>
本発明の化粧料は、成分(B)として、成分(A)と異なるHLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤を必須で含有する。成分(B)として、成分(A)と異なるHLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤を含有することで、経時での安定性を高めることができる。
なお、成分(B)の界面活性剤として、HLB値が12未満の非イオン性界面活性剤を用いると、多層液状化粧料を振とうして化粧料全体を混合又は乳化させた後の、乳化層と水層の分離速度が遅くなる。さらに、乳化粒子の合一が生じ、やがて油が分離するなど経時安定性を損なう問題が生じる場合がある。
本発明に使用する成分(B)のHLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤としては、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸モノエステル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル等を例示できる。
ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルの具体例としては、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテル(30E.O.)(HLB16)、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテル(15E.O.)(HLB14)、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテル(12E.O.)(HLB13)、ポリオキシエチレンアルキル(12~14)エーテル(12E.O.)(HLB14.5)、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテル(30E.O.)(HLB15)、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテル(20E.O.)(HLB13)、ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテル(30E.O.)(HLB15)、ポリオキシエチレンオクチルドデシルエーテル(20E.O.)(HLB13)を挙げることができる。ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテルの具体例としてはPPG-4セテス-20(HLB16.5)、PPG-8セテス-20(HLB12.5)、PPG-6デシルテトラデセス-30(HLB12)を挙げることができる。ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸モノエステルの具体例としてはステアリン酸PEG-20(HLB14)、ステアリン酸PEG-30(HLB15)、ステアリン酸PEG-40(HLB16)を挙げることができる。ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステルの具体例としてはステアリン酸PEG-30グリセリル(HLB15)、ステアリン酸PEG-40グリセリル(HLB16)、ステアリン酸PEG-50グリセリル(HLB16)、ステアリン酸PEG-60グリセリル(HLB17)、イソステアリン酸PEG-30グリセリル(HLB15)、イソステアリン酸PEG-40グリセリル(HLB15)、イソステアリン酸PEG-50グリセリル(HLB16)、イソステアリン酸PEG-60グリセリル(HLB16)、ジイソステアリン酸PEG-60グリセリル(HLB14)を挙げることができる。
ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油の具体例としてはPEG-40水添ヒマシ油(HLB12.5)、PEG-60水添ヒマシ油(HLB14)、PEG-80水添ヒマシ油(HLB15)を挙げることができる。ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステルの具体例としてはモノラウリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン(6E.O.)(HLB13.3)、モノラウリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン(20E.O.)(HLB16.7)、モノパルミチン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン(20E.O.)(HLB15.6)、モノステアリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン(20E.O.)(HLB14.9)、モノオレイン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン(20E.O.)(HLB15)を挙げることができる。ショ糖脂肪酸エステルの具体例としてはショ糖ステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖パルミチン酸エステル、ショ糖ミリスチン酸エステル、ショ糖オレイン酸エステル、ショ糖ラウリン酸エステルを挙げることができ、それぞれHLBが12以上となるエステル化度のものを用いることができる。ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルの具体例としては、カプリル酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB16.1)、ラウリン酸ポリグリセリル-6(HLB13.4)、ラウリン酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB14.7)、ミリスチン酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB14.8)、ステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB14.1)、イソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB13.7)、オレイン酸ポリグリセリル-10(HLB12.9)を挙げることができる。
以上の例示した成分(B)の中でも、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル類、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンアルキルエーテル類、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸モノエステル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油が好ましく、中でもポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、がより好ましい。
<Component (B): Nonionic surfactant with HLB of 12 or more>
The cosmetic preparation of the present invention essentially contains, as component (B), a nonionic surfactant different from component (A) and having an HLB of at least 12. By containing, as component (B), a nonionic surfactant different from component (A) and having an HLB of at least 12, it is possible to enhance stability over time.
If a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than 12 is used as the surfactant of component (B), the separation speed of the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer becomes slow after the multi-layered liquid cosmetic is shaken to mix or emulsify the entire cosmetic. Furthermore, coalescence of emulsion particles occurs, and eventually problems such as separation of oil and other deterioration of stability over time may occur.
Examples of the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 12 or more as component (B) used in the present invention include polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene fatty acid monoesters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, etc.
Specific examples of polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers include polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (30 E.O.) (HLB 16), polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (15 E.O.) (HLB 14), polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (12 E.O.) (HLB 13), polyoxyethylene alkyl (12-14) ether (12 E.O.) (HLB 14.5), polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (30 E.O.) (HLB 15), polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (20 E.O.) (HLB 13), polyoxyethylene oleyl ether (30 E.O.) (HLB 15), and polyoxyethylene octyldodecyl ether (20 E.O.) (HLB 13). Specific examples of polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers include PPG-4 ceteth-20 (HLB 16.5), PPG-8 ceteth-20 (HLB 12.5), and PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 (HLB 12).Specific examples of polyoxyethylene fatty acid monoesters include PEG-20 stearate (HLB 14), PEG-30 stearate (HLB 15), and PEG-40 stearate (HLB 16). Specific examples of polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters include PEG-30 glyceryl stearate (HLB15), PEG-40 glyceryl stearate (HLB16), PEG-50 glyceryl stearate (HLB16), PEG-60 glyceryl stearate (HLB17), PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate (HLB15), PEG-40 glyceryl isostearate (HLB15), PEG-50 glyceryl isostearate (HLB16), PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate (HLB16), and PEG-60 glyceryl diisostearate (HLB14).
Specific examples of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil include PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 12.5), PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 14), and PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 15).Specific examples of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters include polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (6 E.O.) (HLB 13.3), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20 E.O.) (HLB 16.7), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (20 E.O.) (HLB 15.6), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20 E.O.) (HLB 14.9), and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 E.O.) (HLB 15). Specific examples of sucrose fatty acid esters include sucrose stearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose myristic acid ester, sucrose oleate, and sucrose laurate, and each of these can be used with an esterification degree of HLB of at least 12. Specific examples of polyglycerin fatty acid esters include polyglyceryl-10 caprylate (HLB 16.1), polyglyceryl-6 laurate (HLB 13.4), polyglyceryl-10 laurate (HLB 14.7), polyglyceryl-10 myristate (HLB 14.8), polyglyceryl-10 stearate (HLB 14.1), polyglyceryl-10 isostearate (HLB 13.7), and polyglyceryl-10 oleate (HLB 12.9).
Among the above-listed examples of component (B), polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene fatty acid monoesters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil are preferred, and among these, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters are more preferred.
本発明の化粧料は、振とうによって化粧料溶液が均一に混合されるか又は乳化し、静置後に乳化層と水層に速やかに分離する。この乳化層と水層の分離速度が速いことと、分離状態を安定に維持し、乳化層の安定状態を維持し、さらに水層の透明性を保つことが重要である。
本発明の化粧料を経時で安定にするには、乳化層中の乳化粒子の合一を起こりにくくすること、および乳化層の固化を防ぐことが必要である。(A)成分の含有量が(B)成分の含有量よりも多くなると、乳化層が固化する恐れが高まるので、(B)成分は(A)成分よりも多く含有させるとよい。
化粧料を調製するにあたり、化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比を、(A):(B)=1:1~1:20、好ましくは、(A):(B)=1:3~1:19、より好ましくは(A):(B)=1:3.1~1:9となるように、両成分の含有量を調整することが好ましい。
この成分(A)と成分(B)の含有比率とすることで、乳化層の保存安定性、分離速度、水層の透明性が向上する。
In the cosmetic of the present invention, the cosmetic solution is uniformly mixed or emulsified by shaking, and after standing, it quickly separates into an emulsified layer and an aqueous layer. It is important that the separation speed between the emulsified layer and the aqueous layer is fast, that the separated state is stably maintained, that the emulsion layer is kept in a stable state, and that the transparency of the aqueous layer is maintained.
In order to stabilize the cosmetic preparation of the present invention over time, it is necessary to make it difficult for the emulsion particles in the emulsion layer to coalesce and to prevent the emulsion layer from solidifying. If the content of component (A) is greater than the content of component (B), there is a greater risk of the emulsion layer solidifying, so it is preferable to include more component (B) than component (A).
In preparing the cosmetic preparation, it is preferable to adjust the contents of both components so that the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetic preparation is (A):(B) = 1:1 to 1:20, preferably (A):(B) = 1:3 to 1:19, and more preferably (A):(B) = 1:3.1 to 1:9.
By setting the content ratio of component (A) and component (B) within this range, the storage stability and separation speed of the emulsion layer and the transparency of the aqueous layer are improved.
<成分(C):25℃で液状の油剤>
本発明の化粧料は、25℃で液体状態を呈する油剤を含有する。本発明に用いる25℃で液状の油剤は、トリグリセリド、エステル油、炭化水素油、シリコーン油を例示できる。
トリグリセリドとしては、オリーブ油、マカデミア種子油、ヒマワリ種子油、アボカド油、サフラワー油、米糠油、米胚芽油、小麦胚芽油、ヒマシ油、ブドウ種子油、アーモンド油、トリ(カプリル/カプリン酸)グリセリル、トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリルを挙げることができる。エステル油としては、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、ジイソノナン酸1,3-ブチレングリコール、ジ2-エチルヘキサン酸1,3-ブチレングリコール、ジイソノナン酸ジプロピレングリコール、ジ2-エチルヘキサン酸ジプロピレングリコール、イソノナン酸イソノニル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、パルミチン酸エチルヘキシル、ネオペンタン酸イソステアリル、ホホバ油を挙げることができる。炭化水素油としては、流動パラフィン、スクワレン、スクワラン、水添ポリデセン、水添ポリイソブテンを挙げることができる。シリコーン油としては、鎖状ポリシロキサンのジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン等、環状ポリシロキサンのデカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、シクロペンタシロキサンを挙げることができる。
本発明の化粧料にあっては、25℃で液状の油剤の含有量は、化粧料全量に対して1~30質量%が好ましく、3~25質量%がより好ましく、5~20質量%が特に好ましい。1質量%未満では、多層液状化粧料に占める乳化層の体積が小さくなり外観の審美性に劣る場合がある。30質量%を超えて含有する場合には、振とう後の乳化層と水層の分離速度が遅くなる恐れがある。
<Component (C): Oil that is liquid at 25°C>
The cosmetic preparation of the present invention contains an oily agent that is in a liquid state at 25° C. Examples of the oily agent that is liquid at 25° C. and is used in the present invention include triglycerides, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and silicone oils.
Examples of triglycerides include olive oil, macadamia seed oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, rice bran oil, rice germ oil, wheat germ oil, castor oil, grape seed oil, almond oil, tri(caprylic/capric acid)glyceryl, and tri-2-ethylhexanoate glyceryl. Examples of ester oils include cetyl ethylhexanoate, 1,3-butylene glycol diisononanoate, 1,3-butylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipropylene glycol diisononanoate, dipropylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and jojoba oil. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, squalene, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. Examples of silicone oils include linear polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and cyclic polysiloxanes such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane.
In the cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the oil agent that is liquid at 25° C. is preferably 1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 3 to 25% by mass, and particularly preferably 5 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If it is less than 1% by mass, the volume of the emulsion layer in the multi-layered liquid cosmetic may become small, resulting in a poor aesthetic appearance. If it is contained in excess of 30% by mass, there is a risk that the separation speed between the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer after shaking may become slow.
<その他成分>
本発明の化粧料は、発明の効果を損なわない範囲で、乳化層又は水層に、化粧料に通常用いられる成分、例えば、水溶性高分子増粘剤、水溶性塩類、保湿・湿潤剤、酸化防止剤、紫外線吸収剤、香料、防腐剤、pH調整剤、血行促進剤、冷感剤、制汗剤、殺菌剤、皮膚賦活剤、あるいはその他の美容成分、薬効成分などを必要に応じて含有することができる。
<Other ingredients>
The cosmetic of the present invention may contain, as necessary, in the emulsion layer or aqueous layer, ingredients that are typically used in cosmetics, such as water-soluble polymer thickeners, water-soluble salts, moisturizing/humectants, antioxidants, UV absorbers, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, germicides, skin activators, or other cosmetic ingredients or medicinal ingredients, provided that the effects of the invention are not impaired.
本発明においては、本発明の構成成分以外に、少量の水溶性高分子増粘剤を含有させることができる。水溶性高分子増粘剤の含有により、乳化層と水層の分離速度を調整しやすくなる。本発明の構成をとることで、分離速度は十分であるが、製品の使用頻度などに合わせて適宜コントロールすること(分離を遅らせること)を目的として水溶性高分子増粘剤を含有させることができる。例えば、振とう後からの二層分離が数分から10分以内と非常に短時間で完了する場合には、消費者が使用中に均一化を目的として何度も振とうする必要が生じるので、その煩雑な行動は不満につながる傾向にあった。したがって、15分~6時間、より好ましくは15分~2時間未満で分離することが好ましい。つまり2時間程度での分離を一つの目安として、適宜水溶性高分子増粘剤を配合するとよい。また使用感のバリエーション化のために水溶性高分子増粘剤を含有してもよい。
従来の技術では、乳化層及び水層の二層以上の層構造を有する多層型化粧料において、選択できる水溶性高分子増粘剤の種類には、制限がある場合があった。例えば特許文献8に記載の二層液状化粧料の場合は、陰イオン性を示す水溶性高分子増粘剤である必要があった。しかし、本発明の多層液状化粧料は、様々な水溶性高分子増粘剤を使用することができる。
すなわち、本発明にあっては、水溶性高分子増粘剤は、通常化粧料に含有されるものであればどのようなものであっても使用可能である。具体的には多糖類、アクリル酸系高分子化合物、カルボキシビニルポリマー、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルピロリドン、これらの誘導体等が挙げられる。特に多糖類及びアクリル酸系高分子化合物、並びにこれらの誘導体が好ましい。ヒドロキシエチルセルロースは使用感が良好なため好ましく例示できる。
水溶性高分子増粘剤は、所望の化粧料の粘度や使用感に応じて適宜選択される。水溶性高分子増粘剤を含有する場合は、化粧料当たり0.01~2質量%、好ましくは0.05~1質量%、より好ましくは0.1~0.5質量%である。
In the present invention, a small amount of water-soluble polymer thickener can be added in addition to the components of the present invention. The inclusion of a water-soluble polymer thickener makes it easier to adjust the separation speed between the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer. Although the separation speed is sufficient by adopting the configuration of the present invention, a water-soluble polymer thickener can be added for the purpose of appropriately controlling (delaying separation) according to the frequency of use of the product. For example, if the separation of the two layers after shaking is completed in a very short time of several minutes to within 10 minutes, consumers will need to shake the product many times during use for the purpose of homogenization, and this cumbersome behavior tends to lead to dissatisfaction. Therefore, it is preferable for the separation to occur within 15 minutes to 6 hours, more preferably within 15 minutes to 2 hours. In other words, it is recommended to appropriately add a water-soluble polymer thickener, with separation within about 2 hours as a guideline. In addition, a water-soluble polymer thickener may be added to vary the feeling of use.
In conventional techniques, there are cases where the type of water-soluble polymer thickener that can be selected is limited in a multi-layered cosmetic composition having a two or more layer structure of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer. For example, in the case of the two-layered liquid cosmetic composition described in Patent Document 8, a water-soluble polymer thickener exhibiting anionic properties is required. However, the multi-layered liquid cosmetic composition of the present invention can use a variety of water-soluble polymer thickeners.
That is, in the present invention, the water-soluble polymer thickener can be any one that is usually contained in cosmetics.Specific examples include polysaccharides, acrylic acid polymers, carboxyvinyl polymers, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and derivatives thereof.In particular, polysaccharides and acrylic acid polymers, and derivatives thereof are preferred.Hydroxyethyl cellulose is a preferred example because it has a good feeling when used.
The water-soluble polymer thickener is appropriately selected depending on the desired viscosity and usability of the cosmetic. When the water-soluble polymer thickener is contained, the amount of the water-soluble polymer thickener is 0.01 to 2% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass, based on the cosmetic.
また、乳化層と水層からなる従来の二層液状化粧料は、1,3ブチレングリコール(BG)、ジプロピレングリコール(DPG)、1,2ペンタンジオール、エチルヘキシルグリセリンなどの保湿剤・湿潤剤を含有すると、水層の極性が変化し、水層に乳化粒子が残存しやすくなり、それが濁りとなって美観を損ねることが指摘されていた。一方、本発明の乳化層及び水層からなる二層化粧料では、分離後の水層の濁りを抑制する効果が著しく高いため、BG、DPG、1,2ペンタンジオールなどの保湿剤・湿潤剤を含有しても水層に濁りを生じることがない。このため本発明の化粧料は、保湿剤・湿潤剤の成分の配合に特段の制限がない。
なおBG、DPG、1,2ペンタンジオール、エチルヘキシルグリセリンなどの保湿剤・湿潤剤を含有する場合は、使用感を考慮して適宜含有量を調整するが、本発明の化粧料当たり0.1~30質量%、好ましくは1~25質量%、より好ましくは3~20質量%、より一層好ましくは3~15質量%であると好ましい。
In addition, it has been pointed out that when a conventional two-layer liquid cosmetic composition consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer contains a moisturizing agent or humectant such as 1,3-butylene glycol (BG), dipropylene glycol (DPG), 1,2-pentanediol, or ethylhexylglycerin, the polarity of the aqueous layer changes, and emulsion particles tend to remain in the aqueous layer, which causes turbidity and impairs the aesthetic appearance.On the other hand, the two-layer cosmetic composition consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer of the present invention has a significantly high effect of suppressing the turbidity of the aqueous layer after separation, so that even if it contains a moisturizing agent or humectant such as BG, DPG, or 1,2-pentanediol, the aqueous layer does not become turbid.Therefore, there is no particular restriction on the blending of moisturizing agent or humectant components in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
When a moisturizing agent or humectant such as BG, DPG, 1,2-pentanediol, or ethylhexylglycerin is contained, the content is adjusted appropriately taking into consideration the feeling when used, and the content is preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 25% by mass, more preferably 3 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 3 to 15% by mass, based on the cosmetic of the present invention.
本発明の化粧料中の水の含有量は、多層状態を形成できる量であればよい。再分離、再分散性を高めるため、30質量%以上が好ましく、40~90質量%がより好ましく、60~85質量%がさらに好ましい。 The content of water in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be any amount that can form a multi-layered state. In order to improve re-separation and re-dispersibility, the content is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40 to 90% by mass, and even more preferably 60 to 85% by mass.
本発明の化粧料のpHは、25℃の環境下において、4.0~10.5であることが望ましい。この範囲だと肌への刺激性が低いので好ましい。 The pH of the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 4.0 to 10.5 in an environment of 25°C. This range is preferable because it causes less irritation to the skin.
本発明の化粧料は、一般的に用いられている製造技術によって製造可能である。すなわち、水に界面活性剤(成分(A)、成分(B))、任意成分として水溶性塩類、水溶性高分子増粘剤、保湿剤、その他水溶性添加物質を加えて撹拌溶解し、必要に応じて加熱撹拌溶解して水層を調製する。一方、油剤、油性物質、その他油溶性添加物質を撹拌溶解して、必要に応じて加熱撹拌溶解して油層を調製する。次いで、水層に油層を添加、混合し、ホモミキサー等で撹拌混合することで、全成分が均一に分散乳化した溶液を調製する。これを適切な化粧料容器に充填し、室温に静置することで、乳化層と水層が分離して、本発明の化粧料を得ることができる。 The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by commonly used production techniques. That is, surfactants (component (A), component (B)), optional components such as water-soluble salts, water-soluble polymer thickeners, moisturizers, and other water-soluble additives are added to water, stirred and dissolved, and heated and stirred and dissolved as necessary to prepare an aqueous layer. Meanwhile, oils, oily substances, and other oil-soluble additives are stirred and dissolved, and heated and stirred and dissolved as necessary to prepare an oil layer. Next, the oil layer is added to the aqueous layer, mixed, and stirred and mixed with a homomixer or the like to prepare a solution in which all components are uniformly dispersed and emulsified. This is filled into an appropriate cosmetic container and left to stand at room temperature, whereby the emulsion layer and aqueous layer are separated, and the cosmetic of the present invention can be obtained.
本発明の多層化粧料は、静置時には、白濁した乳化層及び水層の明瞭な境界面を示す層分離状態を保ち、使用時に軽く振とうすることで容易に全体が白濁乳化状態となり、使用後は、短時間で元の多層分離状態に復帰する。なお本発明の化粧料は乳化層が上層、透明水層が下層、又はその逆となってもよい。 When left to stand, the multi-layered cosmetic of the present invention maintains a layer-separated state showing a clear boundary between a cloudy emulsion layer and an aqueous layer, and when gently shaken when in use, it easily becomes a cloudy emulsion state as a whole, and after use, it returns to its original multi-layered separated state in a short time. Note that the cosmetic of the present invention may have an emulsion layer as the upper layer and a clear aqueous layer as the lower layer, or vice versa.
実施例の化粧料及び比較例の化粧料を示し、本発明の化粧料の特徴を具体的に説明する。
<実施例1~2、比較例1~7>
実施例1~2及び比較例1~7の二層型ローションタイプの化粧料を調製した。各化粧料は、表に記載されている処方(単位は質量%)により、常法により製造した。
実施例1~2は、成分(A)、成分(B)、成分(C)を含有する。
一方、比較例1~4、7は成分(A)を含有しない組成の例であり、比較例1は、成分(A)に代えてオキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が小さい界面活性剤を配合した組成の例である。
比較例2~4、7は、成分(A)に代えて成分(B)を増量した組成の例である。
比較例5、6は成分(B)を含有せず、成分(A)を増量した組成の例である。
実施例1~2及び比較例1~7の二層型化粧料を用いて、次の試験を行った。
The features of the cosmetic of the present invention will be specifically described by showing the cosmetic of the examples and the cosmetic of the comparative example.
<Examples 1 to 2, Comparative Examples 1 to 7>
Two-layered lotion-type cosmetic compositions were prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7. Each cosmetic composition was produced by a conventional method according to the formulation (unit: mass%) shown in the table.
Examples 1 and 2 contain components (A), (B) and (C).
On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and 7 are examples of compositions that do not contain component (A), and Comparative Example 1 is an example of a composition in which a surfactant having a small average added mole number of oxyethylene groups is blended in place of component (A).
Comparative Examples 2 to 4 and 7 are examples of compositions in which the amount of component (B) was increased in place of component (A).
Comparative Examples 5 and 6 are examples of compositions that do not contain component (B) and have an increased amount of component (A).
The two-layer cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were used to carry out the following tests.
1.実施例1~2及び比較例1~7の評価試験(評価試験1)
1)評価試験方法
調製直後の実施例1~2及び比較例1~7の二層型ローションタイプ化粧料を、直径4.5cm、容量125mLのスクリューキャップ蓋つきガラス瓶に100mL充填した。この充填化粧料を、20cm幅で30回振とう撹拌し、化粧料全体を均一化させた後、以下の項目を評価した。本試験品の組成では、いずれも水層は下層になっている。
1. Evaluation Tests of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 (Evaluation Test 1)
1) Evaluation test method Immediately after preparation, 100 mL of the two-layered lotion-type cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were filled into a screw-capped glass bottle with a diameter of 4.5 cm and a capacity of 125 mL. The filled cosmetic composition was shaken and stirred 30 times at a width of 20 cm to homogenize the entire cosmetic composition, and then the following items were evaluated. In the composition of these test products, the aqueous layer was the lower layer in all cases.
(1)pH測定
調製直後に、ガラス電極法によりpHを測定した。
(1) pH Measurement Immediately after preparation, the pH was measured by the glass electrode method.
(2)分離速度
ガラス瓶に充填後、静置し、1時間経過時および2時間経過時に乳化層と水層が分離した界面を目視観察し、以下の基準で判定した。
(評価基準)
○:2層に分離して界面が明瞭
△:2層に分離しているが、界面がやや不明瞭
×:分離していないか、または分離しているが界面が不明瞭
(2) Separation Speed After filling into a glass bottle, the bottle was allowed to stand, and the interface where the emulsion layer and the aqueous layer separated was visually observed after 1 hour and 2 hours. The separation speed was evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: Separated into two layers with a clear interface. △: Separated into two layers, but the interface is slightly unclear. ×: Not separated, or separated, but the interface is unclear.
(3)分離後の水層の外観
静置した後、2時間経過時点の分離した水層の外観を以下の基準で判定した。
(評価基準)
○:濁りがほぼない
△:わずかに濁りがある
×:あきらかな濁りがある
(3) Appearance of Aqueous Layer After Separation After standing for 2 hours, the appearance of the separated aqueous layer was evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: Almost no turbidity △: Slight turbidity ×: Obvious turbidity
(4)再分散性
静置により完全に分離した後、再度20cm幅で5回振とう撹拌したときの再分散性を、以下の基準で判定した。
(評価基準)
○:均一に再分散した
×:均一に再分散しなかった
(4) Redispersibility After complete separation by standing, the redispersibility when the mixture was shaken again five times at a width of 20 cm was evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: Uniformly redispersed ×: Not uniformly redispersed
(5)経時安定性
乳化層の経時安定性を確認するため、室温に0.5ヶ月及び1ヶ月間、50℃の恒温室に0.5ヶ月及び1ヶ月間静置保管し、外観変化を以下の基準で判定した。
なお、下記の評価基準の「分離」とは、静置後、乳化層中の油分が分離してしまっている状態をいう。「固化」とは、静置後、乳化層の一部または全部が固化し、流動性がない状態をいう。
(評価基準)
○:問題なし(分離、固化がない)
△:極めて軽微な分離又は、若干流動性が低下して固化の傾向が認められる
×:あきらかな分離又は、あきらかな固化のいずれかが発生
(5) Stability over Time In order to confirm the stability over time of the emulsion layer, the emulsion layer was stored at room temperature for 0.5 month and 1 month, and in a thermostatic chamber at 50° C. for 0.5 month and 1 month, and the change in appearance was evaluated according to the following criteria.
In the following evaluation criteria, "separated" refers to a state in which the oil in the emulsion layer separates after standing, and "solidified" refers to a state in which the emulsion layer is partially or entirely solidified after standing and has no fluidity.
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: No problem (no separation or solidification)
△: Very slight separation or slight decrease in fluidity and tendency to solidify. ×: Obvious separation or obvious solidification occurred.
(6)使用感(官能評価)
訓練された官能評価員5名により、前腕内側部を洗浄後、試料を0.5g塗布し、以下の基準により、塗布時および塗布後の感触を評価した。評価判断は5名の協議によって決定した。
・塗布時(みずみずしさ)
(評価基準)
○:みずみずしさがある
×:みずみずしさがない
・塗布後(エモリエント感)
(評価基準)
○:エモリエント感(しっとり感)がある
×:エモリエント感(しっとり感)がない
(6) Usability (sensory evaluation)
Five trained sensory evaluators washed the inside of the forearm, applied 0.5 g of the sample, and evaluated the feel upon and after application according to the following criteria. The evaluation judgment was determined by consensus among the five evaluators.
・When applied (freshness)
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: Feels fresh ×: Does not feel fresh - After application (emollient feeling)
(Evaluation Criteria)
○: Has an emollient feeling (moisturizing feeling) ×: Does not have an emollient feeling (moisturizing feeling)
2)評価結果
表1の下段に評価試験結果を示した。
(1)pH測定
実施例1、2及び比較例1~7の化粧料について、ガラス電極法により調製直後のpHを測定した。実施例と比較例の化粧料には大きな相違はなかった。いずれも化粧料として好ましいpHに調整されていた。
(1) pH Measurement The pH of the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was measured immediately after preparation by the glass electrode method. There was no significant difference between the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples. All of the cosmetics were adjusted to a pH suitable for use as cosmetics.
(2)分離速度
(A)1時間経過後の外観
実施例1、2及び比較例2~7は、「○」評価、すなわち、2層に分離し、界面が明瞭であった。比較例1は、「△」評価、すなわち、2層に分離しているが、界面がやや不明瞭であった。
本試験において、「×」評価の化粧料は、なかった。
(B)2時間経過後の外観
2時間経過後の外観は、1時間経過後と同様の観察結果であった。実施例1、2及び比較例2~7は、「○」評価(2層に分離し、界面が明瞭)であり、比較例1は、「△」評価(2層に分離しているが、界面がやや不明瞭)であった。時間が経過しても、比較例1の組成では「○」評価(2層に分離し、界面が明瞭)とはならず、「△」評価のままであり、本発明が求める外観ではなかった。
(2) Separation rate (A) Appearance after 1 hour Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 2 to 7 were rated as "○", i.e., the sample separated into two layers with a clear interface. Comparative Example 1 was rated as "△", i.e., the sample separated into two layers with a slightly unclear interface.
In this test, no cosmetic product was rated as "X".
(B) Appearance after 2 hours The appearance after 2 hours was observed to be the same as that after 1 hour. Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 2 to 7 were rated as "○" (separated into two layers with a clear interface), and Comparative Example 1 was rated as "△" (separated into two layers, but the interface was somewhat unclear). Even after the passage of time, the composition of Comparative Example 1 did not receive the "○" rating (separated into two layers with a clear interface), but remained rated as "△", which was not the appearance desired by the present invention.
(3)分離後の水層の外観(2時間経過後の観察)
実施例1、2は、濁りがほぼなく「○」評価であった。比較例2~4、7は濁りが観察され「×」評価、比較例5はわずかに濁りの観察される「△」評価であった。比較例1、6は濁りがほぼなく「〇」評価であったが、他の評価項目が「×」となり、本発明が求める品質ではなかった。
(3) Appearance of the aqueous layer after separation (observation after 2 hours)
Examples 1 and 2 were almost free of turbidity and were rated as "○". Comparative Examples 2 to 4 and 7 were observed to be turbid and were rated as "×", and Comparative Example 5 was observed to be slightly turbid and was rated as "△". Comparative Examples 1 and 6 were almost free of turbidity and were rated as "○", but the other evaluation items were rated as "×", and did not meet the quality required by the present invention.
(4)再分散性
実施例1、2は、分離後の再分散性が良好であった。比較例5、6は均一に分散しない「×」評価であった。比較例1~4、7は、再分散性が良好であったが、他の評価項目が「×」となり、本発明が求める品質ではなかった。
(4) Redispersibility In Examples 1 and 2, the redispersibility after separation was good. In Comparative Examples 5 and 6, the redispersibility was evaluated as "x" because the particles were not uniformly dispersed. In Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and 7, the redispersibility was good, but the other evaluation items were evaluated as "x", and the quality was not as required by the present invention.
(5)経時安定性
実施例1、2は、室温及び50℃の各条件下で、0.5ヶ月、1ヶ月保管後において、乳化層に問題がなく「〇」評価であった。一方、比較例1、2は、室温又は50℃において明らかな分離が発生し「×」評価であった。さらに、比較例5、6は50℃において明らかに固化が発生し「×」評価であった。比較例5、6は、室温条件下で、若干流動性が低下して固化の傾向が観察された。
(5) Stability over time In Examples 1 and 2, there was no problem with the emulsion layer after storage for 0.5 and 1 month under each of the conditions of room temperature and 50°C, and the evaluation was "good". On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, clear separation occurred at room temperature or 50°C, and the evaluation was "poor". Furthermore, in Comparative Examples 5 and 6, clear solidification occurred at 50°C, and the evaluation was "poor". In Comparative Examples 5 and 6, a slight decrease in fluidity and a tendency to solidify were observed under room temperature conditions.
(6)使用感(官能評価)
実施例1、2は、塗布時のみずみずしさと、塗布後のエモリエント感の両評価項目が「〇」評価であった。一方、比較例1~4及び7は、塗布時のみずみずしさと、塗布後のエモリエント感のいずれか一つが「×」評価となった。比較例5、6は両評価項目が「〇」評価であったが、他の評価項目が「×」となり、本発明が求める品質ではなかった。
(6) Usability (sensory evaluation)
In Examples 1 and 2, both the evaluation items of freshness upon application and emollient feeling after application were rated as "good". On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and 7, either one of the evaluation items of freshness upon application or emollient feeling after application was rated as "bad". In Comparative Examples 5 and 6, both evaluation items were rated as "good", but the other evaluation items were rated as "bad", which did not meet the quality required by the present invention.
実施例1、2の化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比は、いずれも1:3.1であった。 The mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetics of Examples 1 and 2 was 1:3.1 in both cases.
(7)総合評価
本発明の実施例1、2は、すべての項目〔分離速度、分離後の水層の濁りのなさ、再分散性、経時安定性、使用感(みずみずしさ、エモリエント感)〕において優れた結果を示した。一方、比較例1~7は各評価項目の2以上が「×」評価となり目的とする品質は得られなかった。
成分(A)、成分(B)のいずれかを含有しない組成の場合は、乳化層と水層からなる化粧料として好ましくないものとなるものと考えられた。
(7) Overall Evaluation Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention showed excellent results in all items (separation speed, lack of turbidity in the aqueous layer after separation, redispersibility, stability over time, and feeling when used (freshness, emollient feeling)). On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were rated as "x" in two or more of the evaluation items, and did not achieve the desired quality.
It was believed that a composition not containing either component (A) or component (B) would be undesirable as a cosmetic composition consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer.
<実施例3~8、比較例8~16>
実施例3~8及び比較例8~16の二層型ローションタイプの化粧料を調製した。各化粧料は、表2に記載されている処方(単位は質量%)により同様に製造した。
実施例3~8は、本発明の構成をとる組成である。
一方、比較例8~16は、成分(A)を含有しない組成の例である。
そして、比較例8~16は、成分(A)に代えて、ジステアリン酸PEG-8(HLB6)、ジイソステアリン酸PEG-12(HLB8)、ジラウリン酸PEG-20(HLB12)を配合した組成である。これらはいずれもポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルであるが、オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50未満である化合物である。
なお本発明では、オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50未満であるポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルは(A)成分の代替とはならないが、その配合を排除するものではない。
実施例3~8及び比較例8~16の二層化粧料を用いて、次の試験を行った。
<Examples 3 to 8, Comparative Examples 8 to 16>
Two-layered lotion-type cosmetic compositions were prepared in Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16. Each cosmetic composition was produced in the same manner according to the formulation (unit: mass %) shown in Table 2.
Examples 3 to 8 are compositions according to the present invention.
On the other hand, Comparative Examples 8 to 16 are examples of compositions that do not contain component (A).
Comparative Examples 8 to 16 have compositions in which PEG-8 distearate (HLB 6), PEG-12 diisostearate (HLB 8), and PEG-20 dilaurate (HLB 12) are blended in place of component (A). All of these are polyoxyethylene fatty acid diesters, but are compounds in which the average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added is less than 50.
In the present invention, polyoxyethylene fatty acid diesters having an average added mole number of oxyethylene groups of less than 50 are not a substitute for component (A), but their incorporation is not excluded.
The two-layer cosmetic compositions of Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16 were used to carry out the following tests.
2.実施例3~8及び比較例8~16の評価試験(評価試験2)
1)試験方法
実施例、比較例の化粧料を用いた評価試験を行った。評価試験は前記の(評価試験1)と同様に実施した。
2. Evaluation Tests of Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16 (Evaluation Test 2)
1) Test Method Evaluation tests were carried out using the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples. The evaluation tests were carried out in the same manner as in (Evaluation Test 1) described above.
2)試験結果
評価試験結果を下記表2の下段に記載した。
2) Test Results The evaluation test results are shown in the lower part of Table 2 below.
(1)pH測定
実施例3~8、比較例8~16の化粧料について、ガラス電極法により調製直後のpHを測定した。実施例3~8と比較例8~16の化粧料には大きな相違はなかった。いずれも化粧料として好ましいpHに調整されていた。
(1) pH Measurement The pH of the cosmetics of Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16 was measured immediately after preparation by the glass electrode method. There was no significant difference between the cosmetics of Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16. All of the cosmetics were adjusted to a pH suitable for use as cosmetics.
(2)分離速度
(A)1時間経過後の外観
実施例4~8、及び比較例8~16は、「○」評価、すなわち、2層に分離し、界面が明瞭であった。実施例3は、1時間後の評価が、「△」評価、すなわち、2層に分離しているが、界面がやや不明瞭であった。しかし、後述するが実施例3は、2時間経過後の評価は「〇」評価であった。2時間程度で界面が明瞭となったので、消費者の使用において問題ないレベルと判断した。
また「×」評価の組成は、観察されなかった。
(B)2時間経過後の外観
2時間後の観察結果は、すべて「〇」評価であった。
(2) Separation speed (A) Appearance after 1 hour Examples 4 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 16 were rated as "○", that is, the mixture was separated into two layers with a clear interface. Example 3 was rated as "△" after 1 hour, that is, the mixture was separated into two layers with a slightly unclear interface. However, as will be described later, Example 3 was rated as "○" after 2 hours. Since the interface became clear after about 2 hours, it was determined that the level was acceptable for consumer use.
Furthermore, no compositions rated "x" were observed.
(B) Appearance after 2 hours The observation results after 2 hours were all rated as "good".
(3)分離後の水層の外観(2時間経過後の観察)
実施例3、5、6、8は、濁りがほぼ観察されない「○」評価であった。また実施例4、7はわずかに濁りが観察されて「△」評価であった。一方比較例8~16は、あきらかに濁りが観察されて「×」評価であった。
(3) Appearance of the aqueous layer after separation (observation after 2 hours)
Examples 3, 5, 6, and 8 were rated as "○" because almost no turbidity was observed, while Examples 4 and 7 were rated as "△" because slight turbidity was observed, whereas Comparative Examples 8 to 16 were rated as "×" because obvious turbidity was observed.
(4)再分散性
再分散性を測定した実施例3~8、比較例8~13、15、16は、分離後の再分散性が良好であった。比較例14は二層に分離後、すぐに油分の分離(三層分離)を生じたため評価を行わなかった。
(4) Redispersibility The redispersibility after separation was good in Examples 3 to 8 and Comparative Examples 8 to 13, 15, and 16. Comparative Example 14 was not evaluated because separation of oil (three-layer separation) occurred immediately after separation into two layers.
(5)経時安定性
実施例3~8は、室温及び50℃保管(0.5ヶ月、1ヶ月)において、問題がなく「〇」評価であった。一方、比較例9、13、14は、室温及び50℃保管において分離が発生し「×」評価であった。比較例11は、50℃保管において分離が発生し「×」評価であった。比較例8は室温保管で分離が観察され「×」評価であった。
本発明の構成をとることで、乳化層が経時で安定になることが確認できた。
(5) Stability over time
Examples 3 to 8 were rated "good" without any problems when stored at room temperature and at 50°C (0.5 month, 1 month). On the other hand, Comparative Examples 9, 13, and 14 were rated "poor" because separation occurred when stored at room temperature and at 50°C. Comparative Example 11 was rated "poor" because separation occurred when stored at 50°C. Comparative Example 8 was rated "poor" because separation was observed when stored at room temperature.
It was confirmed that the emulsion layer becomes stable over time by adopting the composition of the present invention.
(6)使用感(官能評価)
実施例3~8は、塗布時のみずみずしさと、塗布後のエモリエント感の両評価項目が「〇」評価であった。一方、比較例8~16は、塗布時のみずみずしさの評価は、「〇」であったが、塗布後のエモリエント感は、すべて「×」評価となった。
(6) Usability (sensory evaluation)
In Examples 3 to 8, both the evaluation items of freshness upon application and emollient feeling after application were rated as "good." On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 8 to 16, the evaluation of freshness upon application was "good," but the evaluation of emollient feeling after application was all rated as "poor."
実施例3~8の化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比は、1:1~1:19の範囲にあった。 The mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetics of Examples 3 to 8 was in the range of 1:1 to 1:19.
(7)総合評価
評価試験2において、本発明の実施例3~8は、すべての項目において優れた結果を示した。一方、成分(A)を含有しない比較例8~16は、水層の透明性の評価がすべて「×」評価となり、さらに使用感評価においても塗布後のエモリエント感がすべて「×」評価となった。このように比較例8~16は、外観、使用感においても好ましくないと判断した。
すなわち、成分(A)に代替して、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルであるがオキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50未満である化合物を含有しても、水層の透明性と使用感が良好にならないことが判明した。
(7) Overall Evaluation In Evaluation Test 2, Examples 3 to 8 of the present invention showed excellent results in all items. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 8 to 16, which did not contain Component (A), were all rated as "x" for the transparency of the water layer, and further, in the evaluation of the feeling of use, all of the emollient feeling after application was rated as "x". Thus, Comparative Examples 8 to 16 were judged to be unfavorable in terms of both appearance and feeling of use.
In other words, it was found that even if a compound which is a polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester but has an average added mole number of less than 50 oxyethylene groups is contained in place of component (A), the transparency of the aqueous layer and the feeling when used are not improved.
<実施例9~17、比較例17~19>
実施例9~17及び比較例17~19の二層型ローションタイプの化粧料を調製した。各化粧料は、表3に記載されている処方(単位は質量%)により同様に製造した。
実施例9~17は、成分(A)としてジステアリン酸PEG-150(HLB16.5)を含有し、成分(B)として、PEG-60水添ヒマシ油(HLB14)、(C12-14)パレス-12(HLB14.5)、ポリソルベート60(HLB14.9)、ステアリン酸PEG-20グリセリル(HLB14)、ラウレス-15(HLB14)、ラウレス-12(HLB13)、ラウレス-10(HLB12)、ラウレス-9(HLB12)のいずれか1又は2成分を含有し、成分(C)としてスクワランとエチルヘキサン酸セチルを含有する。また比較例17~19は、成分(B)のHLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤に代えてHLBが11~8を示す非イオン性界面活性剤を含有する組成である。
この実施例9~17及び比較例17~19の二層型化粧料を用いて、次の評価試験を行った。
<Examples 9 to 17, Comparative Examples 17 to 19>
Two-layered lotion-type cosmetic compositions were prepared in Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19. Each cosmetic composition was produced in the same manner according to the formulation (unit: mass %) shown in Table 3.
Examples 9 to 17 contain PEG-150 distearate (HLB 16.5) as component (A), and contain one or two of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 14), (C12-14) pareth-12 (HLB 14.5), polysorbate 60 (HLB 14.9), PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (HLB 14), laureth-15 (HLB 14), laureth-12 (HLB 13), laureth-10 (HLB 12), and laureth-9 (HLB 12) as component (B), and contain squalane and cetyl ethylhexanoate as component (C). Comparative Examples 17 to 19 are compositions containing a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 11 to 8 instead of the nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 12 or more as component (B).
The two-layer cosmetic compositions of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19 were used to carry out the following evaluation tests.
3.実施例9~17、比較例17~19の評価試験(評価試験3)
1)試験方法
実施例9~17、比較例17~19の化粧料を用いた評価試験を行った。評価試験は前記の(評価試験1)と同様に実施した。
3. Evaluation Tests of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19 (Evaluation Test 3)
1) Test Method Evaluation tests were carried out using the cosmetics of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19. The evaluation tests were carried out in the same manner as in (Evaluation Test 1) described above.
2)試験結果
評価試験結果を下記表3の下段に記載した。
2) Test Results The evaluation test results are shown in the lower part of Table 3 below.
(1)pH測定
実施例9~17、比較例の化粧料17~19について、ガラス電極法により調製直後のpHを測定した。実施例と比較例の化粧料には大きな相違はなかった。いずれも化粧料として好ましいpHに調整されていた。
(1) pH Measurement The pH of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19 was measured immediately after preparation using the glass electrode method. There was no significant difference between the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples. All of the cosmetics were adjusted to a pH suitable for use as cosmetics.
(2)分離速度
(A)1時間経過後の外観
実施例10、14~16は、すべて1時間後の評価が「○」評価、すなわち、2層に分離し、界面が明瞭であった。実施例9、11~13、実施例17は、1時間後の評価が、「△」評価、すなわち、2層に分離しているが、界面がやや不明瞭であった。しかし、後述するが実施例9、11~13および実施例17は、2時間経過後の評価は「〇」評価であった。2時間程度で界面が明瞭となったので、消費者の使用において問題ないとレベルと判断した。
一方、比較例17、18は「×」評価、比較例19は、「△」評価であった。後述するが、比較例19は2時間経過後も「△」評価のままであり、目的とする品質には達していなかった。なお、比較例19に関しては24時間経過後にも観察したが、「△」評価のままであった。
(B)2時間経過後の外観
2時間後の観察結果は、実施例9~17すべてが「〇」評価であった。
また比較例17~19はすべてが「△」評価であった。
(2) Separation speed (A) Appearance after 1 hour In Examples 10 and 14 to 16, the evaluation after 1 hour was all rated as "○", that is, the mixture was separated into two layers with a clear interface. In Examples 9, 11 to 13 and 17, the evaluation after 1 hour was rated as "△", that is, the mixture was separated into two layers with a slightly unclear interface. However, as will be described later, in Examples 9, 11 to 13 and 17, the evaluation after 2 hours was rated as "○". Since the interface became clear in about 2 hours, it was determined that the level was not problematic for consumer use.
On the other hand, Comparative Examples 17 and 18 were rated as "X", and Comparative Example 19 was rated as "△". As will be described later, Comparative Example 19 remained rated as "△" even after 2 hours had passed, and did not achieve the desired quality. Note that Comparative Example 19 was also observed after 24 hours had passed, but remained rated as "△".
(B) Appearance after 2 hours The observation results after 2 hours were all rated as "good" for Examples 9 to 17.
Moreover, all of Comparative Examples 17 to 19 were rated as "Fair."
(3)分離後(振とうしてから2時間静置した時点)の水層の外観
実施例9~17、比較例17~19のすべてが、ほぼ濁りがない「○」評価であった。
(3) Appearance of the aqueous layer after separation (at the time when the aqueous layer was left to stand for 2 hours after shaking) All of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19 were rated as "◯" with almost no turbidity.
(4)再分散性
実施例9~17、比較例17~19のすべてが、好ましい再分散性を示す「○」評価であった。
(4) Redispersibility All of Examples 9 to 17 and Comparative Examples 17 to 19 were rated as "◯", indicating favorable redispersibility.
(5)経時安定性
実施例9~17は、室温及び50℃保管において、問題がなく「〇」評価であった。一方、比較例17、18は、50℃保管において固化が発生し「×」評価であった。このように、実施例9~17は、いずれも乳化層が経時安定であることが確認できた。
(5) Stability over time
Examples 9 to 17 were rated as "good" because there were no problems when stored at room temperature and at 50° C. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 17 and 18 were rated as "poor" because solidification occurred when stored at 50° C. In this way, it was confirmed that the emulsion layer of all of Examples 9 to 17 was stable over time.
(6)使用感(官能評価)
実施例9~17は、塗布時のみずみずしさと、塗布後のエモリエント感の両評価項目が「〇」評価であった。比較例17~19も両評価項目が「〇」評価であったが、他の評価項目が目的とする品質ではなかった。
(6) Usability (sensory evaluation)
In Examples 9 to 17, both the evaluation items of freshness upon application and emollient feeling after application were rated as "good." In Comparative Examples 17 to 19, both evaluation items were rated as "good," but the other evaluation items did not meet the desired quality.
実施例9~17の化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比は、1:3.1~1:7の範囲にあった。 The mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetics of Examples 9 to 17 was in the range of 1:3.1 to 1:7.
(7)総合評価
評価試験3において、本発明の実施例9~17は、すべての評価項目において優れた結果を示した。一方、比較例17、18は、50℃の経時安定性が「×」評価となった。このように比較例17、18は、経時安定性において、好ましくないと組成と判断した。また比較例17~19は、分離速度の評価(外観観察)で、2時間経過後も「△」評価のままであり、好ましくないと判断した。
(7) Overall Evaluation In Evaluation Test 3, Examples 9 to 17 of the present invention showed excellent results in all evaluation items. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 17 and 18 were rated as "X" for stability over time at 50°C. Thus, Comparative Examples 17 and 18 were determined to have compositions that were not preferable in terms of stability over time. Furthermore, Comparative Examples 17 to 19 remained rated as "△" even after 2 hours had passed in the evaluation of the separation speed (visual observation), and were therefore determined to be unfavorable.
以上、表1~3に示した実施例1~17及び比較例1~19の乳化層と水層からなる二層液状化粧料の評価試験の結果から、振とうして混合させた後の分離速度が適切であり、分離後の水層の濁りがなく透明であり、しかも化粧料の塗布時のみずみずしい感触と、塗布後の優れたエモリエント感を持ち、さらに保存安定性の良い化粧料を得るためには、成分(C)の油剤と、成分(A)と成分(B)を含有することが必要である、と結論付けた。 From the results of the evaluation tests of the two-layer liquid cosmetics consisting of an emulsion layer and an aqueous layer in Examples 1 to 17 and Comparative Examples 1 to 19 shown in Tables 1 to 3, it was concluded that in order to obtain a cosmetic that has an appropriate separation speed after mixing by shaking, a clear aqueous layer without turbidity after separation, a fresh feeling when applied and an excellent emollient feeling after application, and good storage stability, it is necessary to contain the oil agent of component (C), as well as components (A) and (B).
本発明の構成をとることで、塗布している最中のみずみずしさ、塗布後のエモリエント感といった使用感面が良好なだけでなく、再分散性、振とうして静置後の分離速度(2時間程度で界面の境界が明瞭になる)、水層の透明性(濁りのなさ)が優れた、化粧料としての外観が美しい二層液状化粧料が得られた。特に化粧料中に含有する成分(A)と成分(B)の質量比が、(A):(B)=1:1~1:20の範囲であると、すべての評価項目が良好になるので、処方設計開発時に煩雑な試行錯誤がなくなった。また、任意に水溶性高分子増粘剤や保湿剤を配合しても本発明の優れた効果は得られるので、処方のバリエーション化が可能となった。 The composition of the present invention not only provides a good sensation during application, such as a fresh feeling, and an emollient feeling after application, but also provides excellent redispersibility, separation speed after shaking and standing (the boundary of the interface becomes clear after about 2 hours), and transparency of the water layer (no turbidity), resulting in a two-layer liquid cosmetic with a beautiful appearance as a cosmetic. In particular, when the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) contained in the cosmetic is in the range of (A):(B) = 1:1 to 1:20, all evaluation items are good, eliminating the need for complicated trial and error during formulation design and development. Furthermore, the excellent effects of the present invention can be obtained even if a water-soluble polymer thickener or moisturizer is optionally blended, making it possible to vary the formulation.
Claims (1)
(A)ジステアリン酸PEG-150、ジラウリン酸PEG-75、ジステアリン酸PEG-190及びジステアリン酸PEG-250から選ばれるいずれか1種以上を含む、オキシエチレン基の平均付加モル数が50以上300以下であるポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸ジエステルを多層液状化粧料全量に対し0.01~0.4質量%
(B)成分(A)と異なる非イオン性界面活性剤であって、HLBが12以上の非イオン性界面活性剤
(C)25℃で液状の油剤
A multi-layered liquid cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) to (C) , wherein the mass ratio of the following component (A) to the following component (B) is (A):(B)=1:1 to 1:20 .
(A) 0.01 to 0.4% by mass of a polyoxyethylene fatty acid diester having an average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added of 50 to 300, including at least one selected from PEG-150 distearate, PEG-75 dilaurate, PEG-190 distearate, and PEG-250 distearate , relative to the total amount of the multi-layered liquid cosmetic
(B) A nonionic surfactant different from component (A) and having an HLB of 12 or more. (C) An oil agent that is liquid at 25°C.
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