JP7555564B2 - Agent for suppressing diurnal changes in complexion - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an agent for suppressing diurnal variation in complexion that can suppress diurnal variation in complexion and maintain the complexion in the morning while maintaining a translucent appearance.

In the past, cosmetics have been developed to make skin look beautiful by making pores less noticeable and by making skin texture look finer. In addition, cosmetics focusing on complexion have been developed to improve the dullness of the complexion that occurs with age (Patent Document 1). On the other hand, it is known that many women not only experience dullness in the complexion that occurs with age, but also feel that their complexion is duller in the evening compared to the morning. This sensation has been thought to be largely due to psychological aspects when tired after finishing work in the evening, and changes over time in the foundation applied to the skin. For this reason, base makeup cosmetics that improve makeup staying power and cosmetics that utilize changes over time caused by the ingredients in the cosmetics coming into contact with sebum, etc. have been developed (Patent Document 2). However, these conventional cosmetics have not been sufficient to improve the dullness felt in the evening.

Patent No. 3563578 Patent No. 5178920

The inventors of the present application therefore investigated the possibility that the dullness felt in the evening is not due to psychological aspects or makeup durability, but is due to changes in the actual bare face color. As a result, when they investigated whether bare face color actually changes throughout the day, they found that the face color changes unexpectedly (more details will be described later). However, when a pigment with high concealing power is used to suppress this daily variation in face color, it causes the makeup to look thick and lose transparency, leading to an unnatural impression. In fact, there are no cosmetics on the market that focus on such daily variations in bare face color, and it is expected that there is a high demand for such cosmetics. In light of the above background, the problem that the present invention aims to solve is to provide an agent for suppressing daily variations in face color that can suppress daily variations in face color and maintain the morning face color while maintaining the transparency of the finish.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides an agent for suppressing diurnal variation in complexion by incorporating an interference pearl pigment, whose maximum reflected interference light is 550 nm to 625 nm, into a cosmetic product.

The interference pearl pigment used in the present invention has a maximum reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm. When a double-sided tape is attached to a piece of black paper, and the interference pearl is evenly applied on the piece with a cosmetic brush, the maximum spectral reflectance is in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm when the spectral reflectance is measured at 400 nm to 780 nm with a spectrophotometer, and the interference pearl pigment has a golden reflected interference color.

In addition, in the present invention, in order to more effectively suppress the increase in redness during the day and evening, it is preferable that the maximum value of the reflected interference light is in the range of 550 nm to 600 nm, where there is little red interference light.

The interference pearl pigment used in the present invention is a coating layer mainly composed of titanium oxide formed on the surface of a flaky substrate, and is a flaky substrate such as mica, synthetic mica, glass flakes, etc., with a particle size of 1 to 150 μm and a thickness of 5 μm or less, preferably 1 μm or less, with titanium oxide having a crystal form such as rutile type or anatase type uniformly coated on the surface, and may contain silica, tin oxide, etc. (each size is a catalog value). The interference pearl pigment used in the present invention is transparent or white when applied to white paper, but when applied to black paper, the reflected interference color is in a range of colors that can be recognized as gold, as described above. The particle size is also preferably 120 μm or less to prevent the beauty of the finish from being lost due to the glare of the interference pearl pigment itself being noticeable.

Specific examples of interference pearl pigments used in the present invention having a maximum reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm include TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD (MERCK) and GLARE CRYSTAL GOLD (CQV). One or more of these interference pearl pigments can be used. TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD has a maximum reflected interference light in the range of 550 nm to 600 nm and has a reduced reddish hue, so it can be used as a more preferred interference pearl pigment.

The interference pearl pigments used in the present invention may be subjected to various surface treatments, such as metal soap treatment, silicone treatment, fluorine-containing compound treatment, and amino acid treatment, in order to impart water repellency and oil repellency. These treatments may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

Furthermore, in the present invention, in order to suppress the glare of the interference pearl pigment itself and further enhance the transparent and natural finish, it is preferable to coat the surface with fine particles of acrylic resin, silica, calcium carbonate, etc. In particular, the fine particles are preferably characterized by a particle diameter of 20 to 650 nm and a spherical, nearly spherical, cubic, etc. shape, and it is better to coat 5 to 40% by weight of the interference pearl.

In addition to the above essential components, the agent for suppressing diurnal variation in complexion of the present invention may contain, as necessary, components that are typically contained in cosmetics, such as various oils, surfactants, water-soluble polymers, other powders, moisturizers, preservatives, drugs, UV absorbers, pigments, inorganic salts or organic acid salts, fragrances, chelating agents, pH adjusters, water, etc., within the scope of the invention.

The agent for suppressing diurnal variation in complexion of the present invention can be used by directly applying the powder, which is the essential ingredient, to the skin as is, or it can be in various forms, such as basic cosmetics such as lotion, milky lotion, cream, etc., makeup base, face powder, pressed face powder, face powder, powder foundation, oil foundation, cream foundation, liquid foundation, concealer, blusher, etc. However, since it is applied to the entire face during the day, base makeup cosmetics such as makeup base, face powder, foundation, etc. are preferred.

The content of the interference pearl pigment used in the present invention, whose maximum reflected interference light is in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm, in the cosmetic is preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, in order to fully exert the effect of suppressing diurnal changes in complexion.

The agent for suppressing diurnal changes in complexion of the present invention can suppress diurnal changes in complexion while maintaining a clear finish, thereby maintaining the complexion you have in the morning.

FIG. 1 shows the results of a survey on diurnal variations in bare facial color. FIG. 13 is a graph showing the results of a survey on diurnal variation in the spectral reflectance of bare faces. 13 is a diagram showing the difference in spectral reflectance of an uncovered face between the 9 o'clock hour and each time of the day. FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the spectral reflectance of various interference pearl pigments.

Next, the agent for suppressing diurnal changes in complexion according to the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the results of a survey on diurnal changes in complexion, the results of an evaluation of the properties of interference pearls, and examples carried out based on these results, but the present invention is not limited to these.

[Survey on diurnal changes in complexion]
A study on whether or not the natural color of the face actually changes during the day was conducted on 12 women in their 20s to 40s using the following method. The measurement site was the cheek, which makes up the majority of the facial skin.

Twelve female subjects in their 20s to 40s were asked to spend a day without makeup after washing their faces, and their faces were photographed five times at 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, and 17:00 using Paparab's two-dimensional colorimeter PPLB-300, and the average L ^* a ^* b ^* values of both cheeks (circles of 25 mm diameter on both cheeks) at each time were measured from the images. The subjects were asked to have lunch around 12:00 and to work as usual during the rest of the day.

From these measurements, the L ^* value (lightness), C ^* value (chroma), and h value (hue) in the L ^* C ^* h color system were calculated, and the values for the 12 subjects at each time were averaged, yielding the results shown in Figure 1.

Compared to the 9:00 a.m. time slot, the L ^* and h values were significantly lower at all other times, and the C ^* values were significantly lower at the 13:00 and 15:00 p.m. time slots. In particular, contrary to the expectation that the L ^* and h values would gradually decrease from morning to evening, the results showed that they were at their lowest before the 11:00 a.m. time slot, recovered slightly at the 13:00 p.m. time slot, and then decreased again in the evening.

[Daily fluctuation of complexion]
In the method for investigating the diurnal variation of complexion described above, the L ^* a ^* b ^* color difference (CIE 1976) at each time compared to the 9 o'clock hour, i.e., ΔE = [(ΔL ^* ) ² + (Δa ^* ) ² + (Δb ^* ) ² ] ^1/2 , is defined as the diurnal variation of complexion ΔE, and the maximum value of the diurnal variation of complexion at each time is defined as the diurnal variation of complexion ΔE _max .

Three experts compared cheek images taken at 9 o'clock and other times for 12 subjects and found that when the diurnal variation in complexion ΔE was less than 0.7, no difference in complexion was felt; when it was between 0.7 and 1.2, the complexion at 9 o'clock was slightly more beautiful; when it was between 1.2 and 1.5, the complexion at 9 o'clock was more beautiful; and when it was 1.5 or greater, the complexion at 9 o'clock was felt to be very beautiful.

The average diurnal variation in complexion color ΔE _max of the 12 subjects in the above-mentioned survey of diurnal variation in bare complexion was 1.74, and 11 out of the 12 subjects had a diurnal variation in complexion color ΔE _max of 1.2 or more. A diurnal variation in complexion color ΔE of 1.2 or more is a sufficient difference in complexion color to be felt, and it became clear that the reason why women feel a change in complexion compared to the morning is not only due to psychological aspects or problems with the durability of foundation makeup, but that most women actually experience a change in the color of their bare face.

[Investigation of diurnal variation in spectral reflectance of bare face]
We investigated how the spectral reflectance of bare faces changes throughout the day. The measurement site was the cheek, which makes up the majority of the facial skin.

As with the survey of diurnal changes in complexion, 12 female subjects in their 20s to 40s were asked to spend the day without makeup on their faces after washing them, and the spectral reflectance of their right cheek in the 380nm to 740nm range was measured using a spectrophotometer (Konica Minolta CM-2600d) five times: around 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, and 17:00. The subjects were asked to have lunch around 12:00, and to go about their normal work schedules for the rest of the day.

The average spectral reflectance of the 12 people at each time point was calculated from these measurements, and the results are shown in Figure 2.

Furthermore, when we calculated the difference between the spectral reflectance at 9:00 and each time, we got the results shown in Figure 3.

These results reveal that the spectral reflectance of the cheeks is reduced around 580 nm at other times of the day compared to the morning. The wavelength of 580 nm is a wavelength at which specific absorption by hemoglobin is observed, and it has become clear that absorption by hemoglobin is greater at other times of the day compared to the morning.

As with the L ^* and h values in the above-mentioned diurnal complexion variation survey, the spectral reflectance also showed the lowest drop at around 11:00, recovered slightly at around 13:00, and then dropped again in the evening.

Considering these results together, it can be said that the cause of the diurnal variation in complexion is not simply the gradual worsening of blood flow from morning to evening due to fatigue from work, but the autonomic nervous system's control of the expansion and contraction of the cheek blood vessels. Until now, the control of the cheek blood vessels by the autonomic nervous system has not been clearly understood, but based on this survey, it can be explained by assuming that the cheek blood vessels expand when the sympathetic nervous system is activated and contract when the parasympathetic nervous system is activated. Between 9am before work, when people are in a relaxed state, the parasympathetic nervous system is activated and the cheek blood vessels are in a contracted state; between 11am when people become more active, the sympathetic nervous system is activated and the cheek blood vessels are in a contracted state; between 1pm after lunch, the parasympathetic nervous system is activated again and the cheek blood vessels are in a contracted state; after that, people become more active again, the sympathetic nervous system is activated, and the cheek blood vessels are in a contracted state. These are the causes of the diurnal variation in complexion.

Based on these results, it is effective to use interference pearl pigments as agents for suppressing diurnal changes in complexion and maintaining the complexion of the morning. This takes advantage of the property of interference pearl pigments that the reflected interference light stands out more when applied to a base with a low reflectance. When applied in the morning, the reflectance of bare skin is high, so the interference pearl pigments are not noticeable, but at other times of the day, the reflected interference light of the interference pearl pigments compensates for the reduced reflected light of bare skin.

Next, the effect of various interference pearl pigments in suppressing diurnal changes in complexion was investigated.
Test Example 1
The double-sided tape was attached to a piece of black paper, and various interference pearl pigments were evenly applied to the double-sided tape with a cosmetic brush. The spectral reflectance of the samples measured in the range of 400 nm to 780 nm using a spectrophotometer (SE7700 manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.) is shown in FIG.

Table 1 shows the wavelengths at which the spectral reflectance of each of the interference pearl pigments shown in FIG. 4 is maximized, and the reflected interference colors.

Test Example 2
After applying various interference pearl pigments to the entire faces of three subjects who show average diurnal variation in face color, the average L*a*b* values of both cheeks (circles of 25 mm diameter on both cheeks) were measured at each time (9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00) using a two-dimensional colorimeter PPLB-300 from Paparab Co. ^, Ltd., and a diurnal variation survey of diurnal variation in face color was conducted, and the diurnal variation of face color ^{ΔE max} at that time was calculated. The effect of suppressing diurnal variation of face color was evaluated as follows: ⊚: diurnal variation of face _color ΔE _max of less than 0.7, ◯: 0.7 or more but less than 1.2, △: 1.2 or more but less than 1.5, and ×: 1.5 or more.

As is clear from the results in Table 2, TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD, which has a maximum reflected interference light at a wavelength of 575 nm, suppresses the diurnal variation in complexion and can maintain the complexion of the morning. This is thought to be because it is an interference pearl pigment that compensates for the wavelengths that decrease in skin during the day and in the evening, as shown in Figure 3. Therefore, TIMIRON SPLEENDID COPPER and TIMIRON SPLEENDID RED, which have low spectral reflectance at wavelengths that decrease in skin during the day and in the evening, do not have the effect of suppressing diurnal variation in complexion. TIMIRON SILK GOLD and TIMIRON SUPER GOLD, whose maximum reflected interference light is in the wavelength range longer than 625 nm, have gold interference light similar to that of TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD, but because they reflect more red light, they are unable to suppress an increase in redness during the day or in the evening, and are weak in suppressing diurnal changes in complexion. TIMIRON SPLENDID GREEN, whose maximum reflected interference light is in the wavelength range shorter than 550 nm, strongly reflects blue-green light, so blueness is noticeable during the day or in the evening, and they are weak in suppressing diurnal changes in complexion.

From these results, it became clear that in order to suppress diurnal complexion variation and maintain the complexion of the morning, it is effective to use an interference pearl pigment with a maximum reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm as an agent for suppressing diurnal complexion variation. This utilizes the property of interference pearl pigments that the lower the reflectance of the base, the more prominent the reflected interference light becomes. Therefore, if the agent for suppressing diurnal complexion variation of the present invention is applied in the morning and left as is for the whole day, it will exert its effect of suppressing diurnal complexion variation all day long and will maintain the complexion of the morning. Furthermore, even if it is applied for the first time during the day or in the evening, or if it is reapplied, it will quickly bring the complexion closer to the morning complexion.

(Powder Foundation 1)
As Example 1, powder foundation 1 having the following formulation was prepared using TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD, which has a maximum reflected interference light wavelength in the range of 550 nm to 625 nm.
Component Content (wt%)
(1) Silicone-treated talc 10.00
(2) Silicone-treated sericite Remaining amount (3) Silicone-treated titanium dioxide fine particle 5.00
(4) Silicone-treated titanium dioxide 5.00
(5) Silicone-treated red iron oxide 0.25
(6) Silicone-treated yellow iron oxide 1.68
(7) Silicone-treated black iron oxide 0.16
(8) Synthetic phlogopite 8.00
(9) Boron nitride 5.00
(10) Silica 8.00
(11)TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD 5.00
(12) Methylparaben 0.25
(13) Neopentylene glycol diisononanoate 5.00
(14) Methylpolysiloxane (30cs) 6.00
(15) Fragrance 0.10
Total 100.00

(Preparation Method)
Components (1) to (12) were mixed uniformly in a Henschel mixer and pulverized in an atomizer. The pulverized mixture of components (1) to (12) and premixed components (13) to (15) were then added to the Henschel mixer and mixed uniformly. The mixture was pulverized in the atomizer, passed through a sieve, and pressed into a medium dish to obtain powder foundation 1.

(Powder Foundation 2)
As Example 2, powder foundation 2 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the blending amount of component (11) was changed to 3 wt %.

Comparative Example 1 (Powder Foundation 3)
As Comparative Example 1, powder foundation 3 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (11) was replaced with TIMIRON SUPER GOLD.

Comparative Example 2 (Powder Foundation 4)
As Comparative Example 2, powder foundation 4 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (11) was replaced with TIMIRON SPLENDID GREEN.

Comparative Example 3 (Powder Foundation 5)
As Comparative Example 3, powder foundation 5 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (11) was replaced with silicone-treated titanium oxide.

Test Example 3
The powder foundations obtained in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were evaluated in the same manner as in Test Example 2 for their effect of suppressing diurnal variation in complexion when applied to the entire face, and also for the transparency of the finish immediately after application. The transparency of the finish was evaluated by three experts, with "high" being 5 points, "slightly high" being 4 points, "average" being 3 points, "slightly low" being 2 points, and "low" being 1 point. The average score at that time was 4.5 points or more as ◎, 3.5 points or more but less than 4.5 points as ◯, 2.5 points or more but less than 3.5 points as △, and less than 2.5 points as ×.

As is clear from the results in Table 3, Examples 1 and 2 were able to suppress diurnal fluctuations in complexion and maintain the complexion of the morning while still providing a clear finish.

Example 3 (W/O emulsion foundation)
As Example 3, a W/O emulsion foundation having the following formulation was prepared using GLARE CRYSTAL GOLD (maximum reflected interference light: 625 nm), which has a maximum reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm.
Component Content (wt%)
(1) Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00
(2) Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 5.00
(3) Isotridecyl isononanoate 8.00
(4) Diisopropyl sebacate 5.00
(5) Disteardimonium hectorite 0.20
(6) PEG-9 Dimethicone 1.00
(7) PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone 1.00
(8) Dipolyhydroxystearate PEG-30 1.00
(9) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4.00
(10) Silicone-treated titanium dioxide fine particle 5.00
(11) Silicone-treated yellow iron oxide 1.68
(12) Silicone-treated red iron oxide 0.25
(13) Silicone-treated black iron oxide 0.16
(14) GLARE CRYSTAL GOLD 5.00
(15) Dimethylsilylated silica 3.00
(16) Vaseline 1.00
(17) Purified water Balance (18) 1,3-butylene glycol 10.00
(19) Pentylene glycol 1.00
(20) Xanthan gum 0.30
Total 100.00

(Preparation Method)
Components 1 to 16 were uniformly dispersed to form an oil phase. Components 17 to 20 were uniformly dispersed to form an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was gradually added to the oil phase with stirring, and emulsified at room temperature. After emulsification, the mixture was defoamed to obtain a W/O emulsion foundation.

Example 4 (white powder)
As Example 4, a face powder having the following formulation was prepared using TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD, which has a maximum reflected interference light wavelength in the range of 550 nm to 625 nm.
Component Content (wt%)
(1) Talc remaining (2) Mica 30.00
(3) Titanium oxide 1.00
(4) Bengala 0.1
(5) Yellow iron oxide 0.1
(6) TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD 8.00
(7) Methylparaben 0.25
(8) Isotridecyl isononanoate 2.00
Total 100.00

(Preparation Method)
Components (1) to (7) were mixed uniformly in a Henschel mixer and pulverized in an atomizer. The pulverized mixture of components (1) to (7) and (8) were added to a Henschel mixer and mixed uniformly. The mixture was pulverized in an atomizer and passed through a sieve to obtain a white paper powder.

Example 5 (Solid Powder Blush)
As Example 5, a solid powder blusher having the following formulation was prepared using silicone-treated TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD, which has a maximum reflected interference light wavelength in the range of 550 nm to 625 nm.
Component Content (wt%)
(1) Talc remaining (2) Silicone-treated sericite 15.00
(3) Mica titanium 10.00
(4) Titanium oxide 0.20
(5) Bengala 2.00
(6) Yellow iron oxide 0.50
(7) Synthetic phlogopite 5.00
(8) Silica 2.00
(9) Silicone-treated TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD 10.00
(10) Methylparaben 0.25
(11) Di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate 6.00
(12) Methylpolysiloxane 5.10
Total 100.00

(Preparation Method)
Components (1) to (10) were mixed uniformly in a Henschel mixer and pulverized in an atomizer. The pulverized mixture of components (1) to (10) and premixed components (11) to (12) were then added to the Henschel mixer, mixed uniformly, pulverized in the atomizer, passed through a sieve, and pressed into a plate to obtain a solid powder blusher.

The cosmetics obtained in Examples 3 to 5 as agents for suppressing diurnal changes in complexion were able to suppress diurnal changes in complexion and maintain the complexion of the morning while still maintaining a transparent finish.

In Example 6, powder foundation 6 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the TIMIRON SPLEENDID GOLD in component (11) in Example 1 was replaced with TIMIRON SPLEENDID GOLD coated with 10% by weight of spherical silica particles having a particle size of 600 nm.

The powder foundation 6 obtained in Example 6 was confirmed to have an effect of suppressing diurnal changes in complexion when applied to the entire face, similar to Example 1. When comparing the finish immediately after application, the powder foundation 6 of Example 6 was preferable, as it had a natural finish with reduced glare.

The agent for suppressing diurnal variation in complexion of the present invention can suppress diurnal variation in complexion and maintain the complexion of the morning while maintaining a transparent finish, and therefore can be used in cosmetics.

Claims (3)

A method for using a cosmetic composition containing an interference pearl pigment having a maximum spectral reflectance value of reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 400 nm to 780 nm in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm for the purpose of suppressing diurnal variation in complexion. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic material containing an interference pearl pigment having a maximum value of the spectral reflectance of reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 400 nm to 780 nm in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm is a make-up cosmetic material. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 5% by weight or more of an interference pearl pigment whose maximum spectral reflectance of reflected interference light in the wavelength range of 400 nm to 780 nm is in the wavelength range of 550 nm to 625 nm.