JP7541712B2 - Vesicle composition, hair cosmetic containing same, and stabilizer for reduced keratin - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a vesicle composition that has excellent stability of reduced keratin. The present invention also relates to a hair cosmetic that has excellent penetration and durability into the application site of the hair, and has high protection, repair and improvement power for the functions and properties of hair at the application site. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a stabilizer for reduced keratin that can improve the stability of reduced keratin.

Hair cosmetics are not just used to make hair look beautiful and smooth the feel of the hair, but are also used to protect the area to which they are applied, or to repair or improve the functions and properties of the area to which they are applied. For example, keratin, a protein found in feathers and wool, is known to be an effective ingredient when added to hair cosmetics, as it blends well with hair and is effective in repairing and improving the quality of hair.

As a result, technology such as that described in Patent Document 1 is known for cosmetics containing reduced keratin that has excellent durability on the application site. Reduced keratin has thiol groups that can be crosslinked inside the hair, and can be crosslinked to the hair via the thiol groups. This allows reduced keratin to continuously repair and modify hair, improving physical properties such as strength and elongation rate, as well as waviness, and forming waves.

In addition, a technique such as that described in Patent Document 2 is known as a method for improving the permeability of active ingredients contained in cosmetics to the application site. By converting the active ingredient into a vesicle, the permeability of the active ingredient to the application site can be improved. Compared to a technique such as that described in Patent Document 3, this technique is simpler and can convert a wide range of substances into vesicles.

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-100600 JP 2018-199669 A JP 2015-189763 A

Because reduced keratin has thiol groups, when reduced keratin is incorporated into hair cosmetics, cross-linking between reduced keratin molecules can occur via the thiol groups within the hair cosmetics. As a result, there has been a challenge in stabilizing reduced keratin over time in hair cosmetics containing reduced keratin.

Therefore, the present invention aims to provide a vesicle composition that has excellent stability of reduced keratin. In addition, the present invention aims to provide a hair cosmetic that has excellent penetration and durability into the application site of the hair, and has high protection, repair and improvement power at the application site of the hair. Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide a stabilizer that can improve the stability of reduced keratin.

As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have found that reduced keratin is stable over time in a vesicle composition containing (A) a polyol, (B) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, and (C) reduced keratin.

Furthermore, hair cosmetics containing the vesicle composition have reduced keratin stabilized over time, so they can stably exert protective, repairing and improving powers on the applied area of the hair for a long period of time.

The vesicle composition of the present invention has excellent stability of reduced keratin. The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention has excellent stability of reduced keratin, and therefore can stably exert protective, repairing and modifying powers on the application site of hair for a long period of time. The stabilizer of the present invention can improve the stability of reduced keratin.

(1) Vesicle Composition The vesicle composition of the present invention contains (A) a polyol, (B) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, and (C) reduced keratin. The vesicle composition of the present invention is excellent in the stability of reduced keratin, and therefore can be used to improve the stability of reduced keratin.

There is no particular limitation on the type of (A) polyol, so long as a vesicle composition can be obtained. Specific examples of the (A) polyol include glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol. From the viewpoint of ease of vesicle formation, glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol are preferred as (A) polyol. One type of (A) polyol may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in combination.

The content of polyol (A) can be appropriately set as necessary. In the vesicle composition of the present invention, the content of polyol (A) is usually 5 to 40 mass%.

The type of (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester is not particularly limited as long as a vesicle composition can be obtained. Specific examples of (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester include polyglycerol fatty acid esters obtained by esterifying one or more fatty acids selected from fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms with polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of 5 to 20. Specific examples of the fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms include caproic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid.

Specific examples of (B) polyglycerin fatty acid esters include polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 trioleate. From the viewpoint of ease of vesicle formation, (B) polyglycerin fatty acid esters are preferably polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate. (B) Polyglycerin fatty acid esters may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The content of (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester can be appropriately set as necessary. In the vesicle composition of the present invention, the content of (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester is usually 0.5 to 5 mass%. This content may be combined with the content of (A) polyol described above.

The blending ratio of the (A) polyol and the (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester is not particularly limited as long as a vesicle composition can be obtained. From the viewpoint of ease of vesicle formation, the blending ratio of the (A) polyol and the (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester/(A) polyol = 0.01 to 1.0, more preferably 0.05 to 0.7, and particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.4. This allows the formation of highly stable vesicles. This blending ratio may be combined with the description of the content of the (A) polyol and/or (B) polyglycerol fatty acid ester above.

(C) Reduced keratin is a keratin derivative having at least one thiol group. Reduced keratin is different from hydrolyzed keratin because it is reduced and extracted. There is no particular limitation on the method for obtaining reduced keratin (C). (C) Reduced keratin can usually be obtained by reducing cystine in keratin or hydrolyzed keratin. There is no particular limitation on the reduction method and conditions as long as the cystine in keratin or hydrolyzed keratin can be reduced.

There is no limitation on the origin of the keratin or hydrolyzed keratin from which the reduced keratin is obtained. Specific examples of the keratin or hydrolyzed keratin include human and animal hair (human hair, wool, feathers, etc.), horns, and nails that contain keratin.

The specific structure of (C) reduced keratin is not particularly limited as long as it has at least one thiol group. (C) reduced keratin may be keratin in which all cystine has been reduced by reduction, or may be keratin in which some of the cystine remains unreduced. From the viewpoint of crosslinking to hair, (C) reduced keratin preferably has four or more cysteines per 100 amino acid residues. Four or more cysteines are preferable because they provide a strong crosslinking force to hair and provide sufficient durability. Furthermore, the molecular weight of (C) reduced keratin is not limited as long as it has the ability to protect, repair, and modify the hair to which it is applied.

The content of (C) reduced keratin can be appropriately set as necessary. In the vesicle composition of the present invention, the content of (C) reduced keratin is usually 0.01 to 20% by mass. This content may be combined with the content of (A) polyol described above. The contents of (A) polyol and (B) polyglycerin fatty acid ester and the blending ratio of (A) polyol and (B) polyglycerin fatty acid ester described above may be used alone or in combination, or may be combined with all of the above descriptions.

The vesicle composition of the present invention may contain components other than (A) to (C) as necessary, as long as they do not inhibit vesicle formation.

There is no particular limitation on the method for obtaining the vesicle composition of the present invention. The vesicle composition of the present invention can be prepared, for example, by preparing a liquid containing components (A) to (C) by adding components (A) to (C) individually to a solvent, or by combining a liquid containing components (A) and (B) with a liquid containing component (C), and then by a known method such as stirring, specifically, for example, stirring the liquid at high temperature with a homomixer. This description also discloses a method for converting reduced keratin into vesicles and a method for stabilizing reduced keratin.

Because reduced keratin has thiol groups, it may react with itself and crosslink via the thiol groups. When reduced keratin crosslinks with itself, the thiol groups are lost, and the reactivity of the reduced keratin decreases. When reduced keratin is in a single state, it can be stabilized by adding a solubilizer (such as a surfactant) or a stabilizer (such as a reducing agent). However, when reduced keratin is added to hair cosmetics, the interaction between the multiple ingredients of the hair cosmetics may cause crosslinking of the reduced keratin.

The vesicle composition of the present invention stabilizes reduced keratin by converting it into a vesicle. Therefore, the vesicle composition of the present invention can prevent cross-linking between reduced keratin molecules. Furthermore, even when vesiculated reduced keratin is incorporated into a hair cosmetic, cross-linking between reduced keratin molecules can be prevented and reduced keratin can be stabilized. Therefore, by including the vesicle composition of the present invention in a hair cosmetic, the useful effects of reduced keratin can be exerted for a long period of time. Note that this knowledge is merely intended for the convenience of understanding the invention, and is not intended to define the present invention.

(2) Hair Cosmetics The hair cosmetics of the present invention contain the vesicle composition of the present invention. The hair cosmetics of the present invention can improve the penetration into the application site of the hair by stabilizing reduced keratin through vesiculation. This can enhance the protection, repair and modification power of the application site of the hair.

In the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, the amount of the vesicle composition of the present invention contained is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount effective for the functions and properties of the hair at the application site.

There are no particular limitations on the method of incorporating the vesicle composition of the present invention into the hair cosmetic of the present invention. For example, the vesicle composition of the present invention may be prepared separately and added to the hair cosmetic. In addition, the components (A) to (C) constituting the vesicle composition of the present invention may be blended together with the components constituting the hair cosmetic (or a part thereof) to form vesicles in the hair cosmetic or in the components constituting the hair cosmetic.

The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain other components in addition to the above (A) to (C) as necessary, so long as the action of the present invention is not inhibited. Such other components include known components that have been added to hair cosmetics in the past, or other functional components. Specific examples of such other components include fats and oils, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, surfactants (nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric), moisturizers, water-soluble polymers, film-forming agents, UV absorbers, sequestering agents, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, amino acids, pH adjusters, vitamins, antioxidants, colorants, preservatives, and fragrances.

There are no particular limitations on the specific uses of the hair cosmetic of the present invention. The hair cosmetic of the present invention can be used, for example, to improve the physical properties of hair (strength, elongation rate, etc.), to improve the disorder of hair ends caused by hair frizz or wavyness, or to further improve the texture (moisturizing, smooth, soft, etc.). Since the hair cosmetic contains reduced keratin, specific embodiments are preferably, for example, shampoos, rinses, treatments, conditioners, hair styling products, permanent wave agents, curling agents, hair coloring agents, hair growth and hair care agents, and pre- or post-treatment agents for the use of these agents.

(3) Stabilizer The stabilizer for reduced keratin of the present invention contains (A) a polyol and (B) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester. The above explanation applies to (A) the polyol and (B) the polyglycerol fatty acid ester. In addition, the above explanation of (C) reduced keratin applies to "reduced keratin".

The stabilizer of the present invention may contain components other than (A) and (B) as necessary, as long as they do not inhibit the formation of vesicles from reduced keratin.

By combining the stabilizer of the present invention with reduced keratin and forming a vesicle of the reduced keratin, the reduced keratin can be stabilized. This makes it possible to prevent cross-linking between reduced keratin molecules. Even when reduced keratin formed into a vesicle in this manner is incorporated into a hair cosmetic, cross-linking between reduced keratin molecules can be prevented, the reduced keratin can be stabilized, and useful effects can be achieved over the long term.

There are no particular limitations on the method and conditions for stabilizing reduced keratin with the stabilizer of the present invention or converting reduced keratin into vesicles. For example, the stabilizer of the present invention is combined with a liquid containing reduced keratin to prepare a liquid, and then the reduced keratin can be converted into vesicles and stabilized by a known method such as stirring, specifically, for example, stirring the liquid at high temperature with a homomixer. The liquid may contain components other than the stabilizer of the present invention and reduced keratin as necessary.

The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to examples. Note that the present invention is not limited to the forms shown in the examples. The embodiments of the present invention can be modified in various ways within the scope of the present invention depending on the purpose and application. In addition, any considerations regarding the results in the examples are merely the inventor's views, and are not intended to define the present invention in any way.

(1) Preparation of Vesicle Compositions Vesicle compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 shown in Table 1 were prepared according to a conventional method. The values in Table 1 indicate the content of the component in the corresponding column, and the unit is % by mass.

(2) Test for stability over time of reduced keratin The vesicle compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 prepared in (1) above were left in an incubator set at 50° C. (Yamato Chemical Co., Ltd., "Constant Temperature Incubator DKN302") for 14 days, and then the stability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1. Here, stability refers to the stability of reduced keratin. When reduced keratin reacts to crosslink with itself, solubility decreases and sediment is generated. Here, the stability was evaluated on a 5-point scale based on the degree of sediment generation. The more sediment generated, the worse the stability is.
Stability rating: 5: No sediment is generated. 4: Almost no sediment is generated. 3: Some sediment is generated. 2: Sediment is generated. 1: A lot of sediment is generated.

(3) Test Results From the results in Table 1, it was confirmed that, compared with Comparative Examples 1 to 4, Examples 1 to 3 contained in the vesicle composition of the present invention have excellent stability of reduced keratin over time.

The following are examples of formulations of hair cosmetics containing the vesicle composition of the present invention. The blending amounts are in mass %. In all of these formulation examples, the excellent stability of reduced keratin was confirmed by the evaluation method described above in (2).

(Formulation Example 1: Shampoo)
Component content (mass%)
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate 12.00
Sodium lauroyl methylalanine 4.00
Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.00
Cocamide DEA 1.50
Polyquaternium-10 0.40
Urea 1.00
Etidronic acid 0.05
Sodium benzoate 0.40
Composition of Example 2 10.00
Rooibos extract 0.10
Aloe vera juice 0.10
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 2: Hair Treatment)
Component content (mass%)
Behentrimonium chloride 1.50
Steartrimonium chloride 1.50
Glyceryl stearate 1.00
Cetyl alcohol 6.00
Behenyl alcohol 1.00
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 6.00
Dimethicone 3.00
Amodimethicone 1.00
Dimethiconol 1.00
Polysilicone-29 0.30
Cyclohexane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol 0.20
Glycerin 1.00
BG 2.00
Caesalpinia spinosa gum 0.40
Lactic acid 0.05
Cholesterol 0.10
Ceramide NP 0.10
Methylparaben 0.20
Propylparaben 0.10
Composition of Example 2 10.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 3: Hair Mist)
Component content (mass%)
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1.00
BG 5.00
Glycerin 2.00
Ethoxydiglycol 1.00
Urea 1.00
Citric acid 0.05
Dimethicone 0.50
Amodimethicone 0.50
Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone 0.50
Dimethiconol 0.50
Ceramide AG 0.10
Hydrolyzed silk 0.50
Arginine ethyl HCl 0.50
Black currant fruit extract 0.01
Methylparaben 0.20
Composition of Example 2 10.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 4: Treatment Agent)
Component content (mass%)
PG 5.00
Glycerin 2.00
Betaine 2.00
Urea 1.00
Trehalose 0.50
Polyquaternium-7 0.50
Decyl glucoside 0.10
Lauramidopropyl betaine 0.10
Hydrolyzed keratin 1.00
Hydrolyzed collagen 1.00
Hydrolyzed silk 1.00
Ceramide AP 0.50
Arginine 0.01
Citric acid 0.05
Methylparaben 0.20
Composition of Example 2 5.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 5: Hair wax)
Component content (mass%)
Candelilla wax 3.00
Cetearyl alcohol 2.00
Glyceryl stearate 1.00
Stearic acid 2.00
Seteth -40 1.00
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4.00
Dimethicone 2.00
Polyacrylamide 0.50
BG 2.00
Sodium hydroxide 0.02
Jojoba seed oil 0.10
Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Composition of Example 2 2.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 6: Hair Cream)
Component content (mass%)
Mineral oil 10.00
Grape seed oil 3.00
Vaseline 3.00
Glyceryl isostearate 2.00
Seteth -40 2.00
Camellia seed extract 0.50
Polysorbate-20 1.00
Carbomer 0.50
Arginine 0.10
Glycerin 3.00
Methylparaben 0.20
Propylparaben 0.10
Composition of Example 2 4.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 7: Hair Manicure)
Component content (mass%)
Benzyl alcohol 4.00
Ethanol 25.00
Glycolic acid 2.00
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00
Xanthan gum 0.40
Dimethicone 1.00
Black 401 0.50
Composition of Example 2 3.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 8: Hair Color Treatment)
Component content (mass%)
Steartrimonium chloride 1.00
Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine 2.00
Cetearyl alcohol 8.00
Glyceryl Caprylate 2.00
Decyl glucoside 0.50
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.30
Polyquaternium-37 0.50
Dimethicone 1.00
Amodimethicone 1.00
Dimethiconol 1.00
Ethoxydiglycol 3.00
Glyceryl glucoside 1.00
Urea 4.00
Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 0.80
Arginine 0.40
Basic Blue 9 90.20
HC Blue 2 0.20
Composition of Example 2 5.00
Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 9: Curling agent)
(1st drug)
Component content (mass%)
Cysteamine HCl 2.00
Cholesterol 0.50
Glucosylceramide 0.50
Monoethanolamine 0.50
Arginine 0.30
Citric acid 0.50
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 1.00
Cocamide DEA 1.00
EDTA-2Na 0.10
Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Composition of Example 2 2.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water remaining
Total amount 100.00
(2nd drug)
Component content (mass%)
Sodium bromate 10.00
BG 4.00
Citric acid 0.10
Sodium citrate 0.60
Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 10: Hairspray (aerosol))
Component content (mass%)
(Alkyl acrylate/diacetone acrylamide) copolymer AMP 2.00
BG 1.00
Yuzu fruit extract 1.00
Dimethicone 0.10
Composition of Example 2 1.00
Purified water 5.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Ethanol Remaining amount LPG 6.00
Total amount 100.00

(Formulation Example 11: Setting Gel)
Component content (mass%)
PVP 4.00
BG 2.00
Ethanol 25.00
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 1.20
Citric acid 0.05
Sodium citrate 0.10
Algae extract 1.00
Macadamia nut oil 0.10
Composition of Example 2 1.00
Fragrance Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount
Total amount 100.00

As described above, the composition and stabilizer of the present invention are excellent at stabilizing reduced keratin. The hair cosmetic of the present invention has excellent stability for reduced keratin, and therefore has excellent protective, repairing and improving powers at the application site of the hair, and can exert useful effects over the long term. Therefore, the hair cosmetic of the present invention is practical and has a wide range of uses, and is highly useful in the cosmetics industry.

Claims (3)

A vesicle composition comprising (A) a polyol, (B) polyglyceryl-10 laurate , and (C) reduced keratin. A hair cosmetic comprising the vesicle composition according to claim 1. A stabilizer for reduced keratin comprising (A) a polyol and (B) polyglyceryl-10 laurate .