JP6646438B2 - Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic.

In order to obtain a cosmetic such as a foundation with a natural and covering finish, it has been studied to mix various silicone resin powders.
For example, Patent Literature 1 describes that a cosmetic containing a non-volatile oil, a silicone elastomer, an oil-soluble silicone resin, and a volatile solvent has lubricity, and is excellent in durability and feel.

JP-A-2002-205914

  The present inventor has found that a cosmetic such as a foundation containing a large amount of a silicone elastomer is applied thickly to bare skin to cover the spread of pores and conspicuous darkening. Was.

  The present inventor has noticed pores by using a specific dextrin fatty acid ester and a nonvolatile phenyl-modified silicone in combination with a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing a silicone resin spherical elastic powder and a volatile silicone oil. Even if the person applying the foundation on the bare skin, it is difficult to form the streaks (torky), it can be quickly and thickly adhered to the skin, and the applied skin is uniform and dry skin is finished I found that.

The invention comprises the following components (A), (B), (C) and (D):
(A) silicone resin spherical elastic powder 0.1 to 30% by mass,
(B) 0.1 to 10% by mass of a dextrin fatty acid ester having 18 to 22 carbon atoms in the fatty acid,
(C) 0.1 to 10% by mass of a nonvolatile phenyl-modified silicone,
(D) volatile silicone oil 0.1 to 30% by mass
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic containing:

  The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is less likely to have streaks during application, can be quickly adhered to the skin, has excellent pore coverage after application, and has a uniform and matte finish. Moreover, the skin after application has no dry feeling, and excellent pore covering power is maintained even after 3 hours from application.

The silicone resin spherical elastic powder of the component (A) used in the present invention may be a spherical powder having a spherical shape, including a true sphere, a substantially spherical shape, and a spheroid, and having irregularities on the surface.
The silicone resin spherical elastic powder preferably has a rubber elasticity in the range of 5 to 80, more preferably 10 to 50. Rubber elasticity is measured with a durometer A according to JIS K 7215.

In addition, the silicone resin spherical elastic powder preferably has an average particle diameter of 1 to 50 μm, more preferably 2 to 15 μm, from the viewpoint that the silicone resin spherical elastic powder is excellent in elongation and spread on the skin at the time of application and retains a soft touch.
The particle diameter of the powder is measured by a particle size distribution analyzer using a laser diffraction / scattering method. Specifically, it is measured with a laser diffraction scattering type particle size distribution analyzer (for example, LA-920, manufactured by HORIBA, Ltd.) using ethanol as a dispersion medium.

The silicone resin spherical elastic powder may be a silicone rubber powder or a composite spherical powder having a silicone rubber powder as a base powder, and examples thereof include a silicone resin-coated silicone rubber powder.
The silicone rubber powder is obtained by pulverizing a silicone rubber having a structure in which linear dimethyl silicone is crosslinked, and is preferably a (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer. Examples of commercially available products include Trefil E506S (average particle diameter 4 μm, rubber elasticity 30), Trefill E508 (average particle diameter 4 μm, rubber elasticity 17) (all manufactured by Toray Downing).
The silicone resin-coated silicone rubber powder is obtained by coating the surface of a silicone rubber powder with a silsesquioxane resin, and includes (vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, (diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silyl). (Sesquioxane) crosspolymers are preferred. As commercially available products, KSP-100 (average particle diameter 5 μm, rubber elasticity 30), KSP-101 (average particle diameter 12 μm, rubber elasticity 30), KSP-102 (average particle diameter 30 μm, rubber elasticity 30), KSP-105 (Average particle diameter 2 μm, rubber elasticity 75), KSP-300 (average particle diameter 5 μm, rubber elasticity 40) (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
Among these silicone resin spherical elastic powders, a silicone rubber elastic powder whose surface is not coated with the silicone resin is preferable.

  As the component (A), one type or two or more types can be used, and the content thereof is excellent in spreading and spreading on the skin at the time of application, maintaining a soft feel, and excellent pore covering power. 0.1% by mass or more in the entire composition, preferably 0.3% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, still more preferably 1% by mass or more, 30% by mass or less, 15% by mass The following is preferable, 5 mass% is more preferable, and 4 mass% or less is further more preferable. Further, the content of the component (A) is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and 1 to 4% by mass in the whole composition. % Is more preferred.

The dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (B) is an ester of a fatty acid having 18 to 22 carbon atoms and a dextrin and is dissolved in an oil agent and has a film-forming property. More preferably, it is 10 to 100. The sugar chain of dextrin may be linear, branched, or cyclic.
The degree of substitution of the dextrin fatty acid ester is preferably from 1.0 to 3.0 per glucose unit, and more preferably from 1.2 to 2.8 from the viewpoint of easy dissolution in an oil agent.

In addition, the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (B) may contain one or more kinds of branched-chain fatty acids and straight-chain fatty acids as fatty acids having 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of the branched chain fatty acid include isostearic acid, isoarachinic acid, and isohexacosanoic acid, and examples of the linear fatty acid include stearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid.
Specifically, dextrin isostearate, dextrin stearate, dextrin oleate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin arachidate, dextrin isohexacosanoate, dextrin behenate, dextrin (isostearic acid / stearic acid) dextrin, (isostearic acid / arachidic acid) dextrin Dextrin isostearate is preferred because it does not exhibit a thickening effect or gelling ability.
In addition, as a commercially available product, Unifilm HVY (manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) and the like can be mentioned.

  The dextrin fatty acid ester of the component (B) can be used singly or in combination of two or more kinds. 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.3% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, still more preferably 1% by mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 7% by mass or less. It is more preferably at most 4% by mass, more preferably at most 4% by mass. Further, the content of the component (B) is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and 1 to 4% by mass in the whole composition. % Is more preferred.

  In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) makes it difficult to form streaks during application, makes it possible to quickly adhere to the skin, and reduces pore coverage after application. It is preferably 0.1 or more from the viewpoint that an excellent, uniform and matte finish can be obtained, and there is no dry feeling on the applied skin, and excellent pore covering power is maintained even after 3 hours from the application. 0.2 or more, more preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.40 or more, still more preferably 5 or less, more preferably 4 or less, still more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2.3 or less. Further, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is preferably from 0.1 to 5, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, further preferably from 0.3 to 3, and 0 .40-2.3 is even more preferred.

The phenyl-modified silicone of the component (C) is nonvolatile. Here, the term "non-volatile" refers to a material in which 1 g of an oil agent is spread on a glass petri dish having a diameter of 48 mm, and a mass reduction rate after leaving it at 25 ° C. and normal pressure for 24 hours is 1% or less.
The component (C) preferably has a viscosity of 5 mm ² / s or more at 25 ° C., and more preferably has a viscosity of 500 mm ² / s or less.
Examples of the component (C) include phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.
Of these, phenyltrimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone are preferred, and phenyltrimethicone is more preferred, from the viewpoint of dissolving the component (B).

  As the component (C), one type or two or more types can be used. The content of the component (C) is 0.1% by mass in the whole composition from the viewpoint of dissolving the component (B) and having excellent pore coverage after application. % Or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 0.7% by mass or more, still more preferably 1.0% by mass, 10% by mass or less, preferably 7% by mass or less, and 5% by mass. The lower limit is more preferably 3.5% by mass or less. Further, the content of the component (C) is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.7 to 5% by mass, and 1.0 to 10% by mass in the whole composition. 3.5 mass% is more preferred.

  In the present invention, the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is less likely to cause streak unevenness during application, allows quick adhesion to the skin, and reduces pore coverage after application. It is preferably 0.1 or more from the viewpoint that an excellent, uniform and matte finish can be obtained, and there is no dry feeling on the applied skin, and excellent pore covering power is maintained even after 3 hours from the application. 0.3 or more, more preferably 0.4 or more, still more preferably 0.5 or more, preferably 8 or less, more preferably 6 or less, still more preferably 5 or less, and even more preferably 4 or less. Further, the mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) is preferably from 0.1 to 8, more preferably from 0.3 to 6, further preferably from 0.4 to 5, and 0 0.5 to 4 are even more preferred.

The silicone oil of component (D) is volatile. Volatile is one having a flash point of 35-87 ° C.
Examples of the volatile silicone oil include linear dimethylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5 cs) and dimethylpolysiloxane (2 cs); branched siloxanes such as tris (trimethylsilyl) methylsilane and tetrakis (trimethylsilyl) silane; Cyclic dimethyl siloxane such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like can be mentioned.
Of these, cyclic dimethylsiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane are preferable, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane is more preferable.

  As the component (D), one or more types can be used. The content of the component (D) is excellent in the solubility of the components (B) and (C). In view of the fact that the component B forms a film on the surface of the composition and the pores can be smoothed, the content is 0.1% by mass or more in the entire composition, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 4% by mass or more. , 8% by mass or more, more preferably 30% by mass or less, preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 22% by mass, and still more preferably 18% by mass or less. Further, the content of the component (D) is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 25% by mass, more preferably 4 to 22% by mass, and still more preferably 8 to 18% by mass in the whole composition. .

  In the present invention, the mass ratio (C) / (D) of the component (C) to the component (D) is such that after the application, the component (D) evaporates, the component B forms a film on the skin, 0.01 or more, more preferably 0.03 or more, still more preferably 0.05 or more, still more preferably 0.07 or more, still more preferably 5 or less, preferably 1 or less Is more preferable, 0.5 or less is still more preferable, and 0.37 or less is further more preferable. Further, the mass ratio (C) / (D) of the component (C) to the component (D) is preferably 0.01 to 5, more preferably 0.03 to 1, and still more preferably 0.05 to 0.5. , 0.07 to 0.37 are even more preferred.

  In the present invention, the content of water is not particularly limited as long as it can be prepared as a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic. It is preferably 35% by mass, more preferably 35% to 75% by mass, and still more preferably 45% to 65% by mass.

The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can contain a non-volatile oil other than the component (C), and can help dissolution of the component (B). Here, non-volatile refers to a material having a kinematic viscosity of 5 mm ² / s or more at 25 ° C.
Such non-volatile oils are ester oils and hydrocarbon oils which are liquid at 25 ° C., and those used in ordinary cosmetics can be used. The liquid at 25 ° C. is an oil component having fluidity at 25 ° C., and includes a paste-like oil component as long as it has fluidity. Of these, ester oils that are liquid at 25 ° C. are preferred.

As the ester oil liquid at 25 ° C., any oil used in ordinary cosmetics may be used, such as avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, Vegetable oils such as palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, camellia oil, corn oil; animal oils such as liquid lanolin; isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate Butyl stearate, oleyl oleate, octyl dodecyl ricinoleate, octyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate Polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri (capryl / caprate), glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, triisostearate Fatty acid esters such as methylolpropane, dl-α-tocopherol, dl-α-tocopherol nicotinate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate and the like.
Of these, olive oil, ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, propylene glycol dicaprate, and dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate are preferred.

Examples of the hydrocarbon oil liquid at 25 ° C. include linear or branched hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, squalane, and squalene. Can be
Of these, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, and liquid paraffin are preferred.

  One or more non-volatile oils other than the component (C) can be used, and the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the whole composition from the viewpoint of good feeling in use and storage stability. It is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and even more preferably 15% by mass or less. The content of the non-volatile oil other than the component (C) is preferably from 0.1 to 30% by mass, more preferably from 1 to 20% by mass, and still more preferably from 3 to 15% by mass in the whole composition.

  The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may contain a powder other than the component (A). As the powder other than the above, if it is a powder usually used in cosmetics, spherical, plate-like, needle-like or the like, fume-like, fine particles, particle size such as pigment grade, porous, non-porous, etc. It can be used without any particular limitation depending on the particle structure and the like. Specifically, red iron oxide, iron hydroxide, iron titanate, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, carbon black, navy blue, ultramarine, manganese violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, etc. Colored pigments: titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, silicic acid, Silicic anhydride, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, hydroxyapatite, vermiculite, bentonite, montmorillonite, hec White or extender pigments such as light, smectite, zeolite, ceramic powder, dibasic calcium phosphate, alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, boron nitride, synthetic sericite; fish scale foil, titanium oxide-coated mica (titanium mica), bismuth oxychloride , Titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated talc, titanium oxide coated colored mica, titanium oxide iron oxide coated mica, fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment treated mica titanium, lower titanium oxide Coated mica, mica, titanium oxide coated synthetic mica, titanium oxide coated plate silica, hollow plate titanium oxide, iron oxide coated mica, plate iron oxide (MIO), aluminum flake, stainless flake, titanium oxide coated plate alumina, Pearl shell, gold leaf, gold evaporated resin film, gold Pearl pigments (brilliant powder) such as vapor-deposited resin films; organic powders such as polymethylsilsesquioxane, nylon powder, silk powder, urethane powder, cellulose powder; red No. 104, red No. 102, red 226 No. 201, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Yellow No. 4, Black No. 401, etc., and organic tar pigments, organic dyes and lakes thereof, and one or more of these can be used.

Any of the powders used in the present invention can be used as they are, and powders obtained by subjecting one or more of these powders to a hydrophobic treatment can also be used. The hydrophobization treatment is not limited as long as it is a treatment applied to ordinary cosmetic powders, and includes fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, metal soaps, amino acid compounds, lecithin, alkylsilanes, oils, organic titanates, and the like. Dry treatment, wet treatment, etc. may be performed using the above surface treatment agent.
Specific examples of the surface treatment agent include fluorine compounds such as perfluoropolyether, perfluoroalkylphosphate ester, perfluoroalkylalkoxysilane, and fluorine-modified silicone; dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclic silicone, pieces Silicone compounds such as organopolysiloxane modified with trialkoxy group at both or both terminals, cross-linked silicone, silicone resin, fluorine-modified silicone resin, acrylic-modified silicone; aluminum stearate, aluminum myristate, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, etc. Metal soaps; amino acid compounds such as proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, lysine and derivatives thereof; lecithin; Lecithin added; alkylsilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane; oils such as polyisobutylene, wax, oils and fats; and organics such as isopropyltitanium triisostearate Titanate and the like can be mentioned.

Further, as the powder used in the present invention, a powder obtained by subjecting one or more of these powders to a hydrophilic treatment may be used. The hydrophilization treatment is not limited as long as it is a treatment applied to ordinary cosmetic powder.
For example, gum arabic, tragacanth, arabinogalactan, locust bean gum (carob gum), guar gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (quince), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), alge colloid, trant gum, Plant-based polymers such as locust bean gum; microbial polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan; animal-based polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and salts thereof; carboxymethyl starch , Starch-based polymers such as methylhydroxypropyl starch; methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose Hydroxypropylcellulose, nitrocellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, carboxymethylcellulose sodium, crystalline cellulose, cellulose-based cellulosic polymer; alginic acid-based polymer such as sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate; polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer Polyoxyethylene polymers such as polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol silane; Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer polymers; acrylics such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate and polyacrylamide And inorganic silicate compounds such as silica.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, other oil-based components, surfactants, water-soluble polymers, fragrances, humectants, cosmetic components. , A pharmaceutically active ingredient, an ultraviolet absorber, a thickener, a bactericide, a pH adjuster, an antioxidant, a preservative, and an inorganic salt.

The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be manufactured according to a usual method, and can be made into a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel or other dosage form, and an emulsion, cream Is preferred.
Further, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is a makeup base such as a makeup base, foundation, concealer, blusher, eyeshadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow, overcoat agent, lipstick, etc .; It can be applied as an ultraviolet protection cosmetic such as a sunscreen. Among them, a makeup base and a liquid foundation are more preferable.
The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be used alone or in the superposition of powder cosmetics such as liquid foundation, powder foundation, and white powder.

Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3
Manufacture water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics (base makeup) with the composition shown in Table 1 and make it difficult to form streaks during application, good spreadability during application, pore coverage after application, and skin after application Was evaluated for quickness of adhesion, uniform finish after application, and pore coverage after 3 hours of application. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
The components (A) to (D), the other oil phase components, and the water phase components were each heated and dissolved, and the powder components were added to the oil phase components and dispersed. The aqueous phase component was added thereto, and the mixture was stirred with a homomixer to emulsify, and then cooled to room temperature to obtain a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic (foundation).

(Evaluation method)
When applying each cosmetic to the skin with your finger, it is difficult to form streaks during application, good spreadability during application, pore coverage after application, quick adhesion to skin after application, The uniform finish and the pore coverage after 3 hours of application were evaluated. In addition, the evaluation result in a table | surface was sensory-evaluated by the following five steps by ten expert evaluators, and was shown by the total score of ten persons.

(1) Difficulty of streaking during application:
5;
4: Streaks can hardly be formed.
3;
2: Streaks can be slightly formed.
1: Streaks are formed.

(2) Good spreadability during application:
5;
4: Good spreadability.
3;
2; stretch is not very good.
1; stretch is not good.

(3) Pore coverage after application:
5; pores are firmly covered.
4: The pores are covered.
3: The pores are slightly covered.
2: The pores are not covered much.
1: The pores are not covered.

(4) Quickness of adhesion to skin after application:
5; The adhesion to the skin is very fast.
4: Quick adhesion to skin.
3: Adhesion to skin is rather early.
2: Adhesion to skin is slightly slow.
1: Adhesion to skin is slow.

(5) Uniform finish after coating:
5: fairly uniform finish.
4: Uniform finish.
3: Finished somewhat uniformly.
2: Not uniformly finished.
1: Not uniformly finished.

(6) Pore coverage after 3 hours of application:
5; pores are firmly covered.
4: The pores are covered.
3: The pores are slightly covered.
2: The pores are not covered much.
1: The pores are not covered.

Example 10 (water-in-oil type emulsified foundation)
In the same manner as in Examples 1 to 9, a water-in-oil emulsified foundation having the composition shown in Table 2 was produced.
The resulting foundation is less likely to have uneven streaks during application, has good spreadability, can be quickly adhered to the skin, has excellent pore coverage after application, and has a uniform and matte finish. There is no dry feeling on the skin after application, and excellent pore covering power is maintained even after 3 hours from application.

Claims (4)

The following components (A), (B), (C) and (D):
(A) silicone resin spherical elastic powder 0.1 to 30% by mass,
(B) dextrin isostearate 0.1 to 10% by mass,
(C) 0.1 to 10% by mass of a nonvolatile phenyl-modified silicone selected from phenyltrimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone ;
(D) volatile silicone oil 0.1 to 30% by mass
And a mass ratio (B) / (C) of the component (B) to the component (C) of from 0.5 to 8 is a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic. Component (C) is a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of claim 1, wherein is phenyl trimethicone. The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is from 0.1 to 5. The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein a mass ratio (C) / (D) of the component (C) to the component (D) is 0.01 to 5.