JP6587723B2 - Warp knitting interlining - Google Patents
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Description
本発明は、張り、腰があり保形性に優れた衣料用の経編芯地に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric for apparel that has tension and waist and is excellent in shape retention.
芯地は保形性やシルエット調整などを目的として背広、ズボン、作業服、コートなどの衣服やネクタイや帽子などの付属品などの広い分野で用いられている。また、芯地を成す布帛の種類としては不織布、織物、編物などで形成され、それぞれ一長一短を有していることから用いる製品の要求性能に応じて適宜選択し、採用されている。 Interlining is used in a wide range of areas such as suits, trousers, work clothes, coats, and accessories such as ties and hats for the purpose of shape retention and silhouette adjustment. In addition, the kind of fabric forming the interlining is formed of a nonwoven fabric, a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, and the like, and each has advantages and disadvantages, so that it is appropriately selected and adopted according to the required performance of the product to be used.
例えば、参考文献1で提案されているような不織布は薄くて、形態安定性が優れ、しかも比較的安価であることから衣料用の芯地とし多用されているが、形態安定性が優れる反面、ドレープ性に欠け、表地の変形に追従し難くいという問題がある。また、特許文献2や特許文献3で提案されているような織物やよこ挿入トリコット編地であれば、構成する糸条同士が接着結合されていないのでドレープ性に優れ、表地の変形に追従し易いが、形態保持性という点には不織布より劣るのが問題である。 For example, the nonwoven fabric as proposed in Reference 1 is thin, excellent in form stability, and relatively inexpensive, so it is often used as a garment for clothing, but has excellent form stability, There is a problem that drape is lacking and it is difficult to follow the deformation of the outer surface. Further, in the case of a woven fabric or a weft insertion tricot knitted fabric as proposed in Patent Document 2 or Patent Document 3, since the constituent yarns are not adhesively bonded to each other, they are excellent in drape and follow the deformation of the outer material. Although it is easy, it is a problem that it is inferior to a nonwoven fabric in terms of form retention.
また、学生服の詰襟用やズボンなどの腰回り用の芯地においては、特に張り、腰を有し、高度な形態安定性が要求され、上述したような通常の布帛構造では不十分であることから、布帛の片面に柔らかな樹脂シートや他の布帛などをラミネート加工して用いられている。 In addition, in the interlining for the waistline of school clothes, trousers, etc., it is particularly tight and has a waist, and a high degree of form stability is required, and the normal fabric structure as described above is insufficient. For this reason, a soft resin sheet or other fabric is laminated on one side of the fabric and used.
しかしながら、芯地の表裏で熱的性質の異なる材料が貼り合わさっているとアイロンなどで高温度に曝された際に変形が生じ易い問題や、ラミネート加工費用が付加されて製造コストがアップするという問題がある。 However, if materials with different thermal properties are bonded together on the front and back of the interlining, problems such as the possibility of deformation when exposed to high temperatures with an iron or the like, and the cost of laminating are added, increasing the manufacturing cost. There's a problem.
本発明は、上述したような問題点に鑑みて、張り、腰を有して形態安定性に優れ、特に学生服の詰襟用などに適した芯地を安価な製造コストで提供することにある。 In view of the above-described problems, the present invention is to provide an interlining having a tightness and a waist and having excellent shape stability, and particularly suitable for use as a collar for school uniforms, etc., at a low manufacturing cost. .
本発明者が上記技術的課題を解決するために採用した手段を、添付図面を参照して説明すれば、次のとおりである。 Means employed by the present inventor for solving the above technical problem will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
即ち、本発明は、表編地と裏編地、および表編地と裏編地とを一体化する連結糸からなる経編組織にて編成され、前記連結糸の一部または全部が熱可塑性糸であって、前記連結糸が前記表編地を構成する表編目のシンカーループと前記裏編地を構成する裏編目のシンカーループにそれぞれ挿入させることで完成させた。 That is, the present invention is knitted with a warp knitting structure comprising a connecting yarn that unifies the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric, and the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric, and a part or all of the connecting yarn is thermoplastic. The connecting yarn was completed by inserting the connecting yarn into a sinker loop of the front stitch constituting the front knitted fabric and a sinker loop of the back stitch constituting the back knitted fabric, respectively.
また、前記連結糸は、編成コース毎のウェール方向への振り巾が異なる2種類以上から成る技術的手段を採用することができる。 Moreover, the said connection thread | yarn can employ | adopt the technical means which consists of 2 or more types from which the swing width to the wale direction for every knitting course differs.
更にまた、前記連結糸は、鞘部が低融点ポリマー、芯部が高融点ポリマーで構成される芯鞘複合糸とする技術的手段を採用することができる。 Further, the connecting yarn may employ a technical means in which the sheath portion is a core-sheath composite yarn having a low melting point polymer and a core portion made of a high melting point polymer.
更にまた、前記連結糸は、互いに交絡し、その交絡点において連結糸同士を接着させる技術的手段を採用することができる。 Furthermore, the connecting yarns can be entangled with each other, and technical means for adhering the connecting yarns at the entanglement point can be adopted.
更にまた、前記表編地および/または裏編地において、その一部または全部がメッシュ組織とする技術的手段を採用することができる。 Furthermore, technical means in which a part or all of the front knitted fabric and / or the back knitted fabric has a mesh structure can be adopted.
更にまた、前記表編地および/または裏編地において、その一部または全部に色糸を使用する技術的手段を採用することができる。 Furthermore, technical means using colored yarn for a part or all of the front knitted fabric and / or the back knitted fabric can be employed.
本発明にあっては、表編地と裏編地、および表編地と裏編地とを一体化する連結糸からなる経編組織にて編成され、前記連結糸の一部または全部が熱可塑性糸であって、前記連結糸が前記表編地を構成する表編目のシンカーループと前記裏編地を構成する裏編目のシンカーループにそれぞれ挿入させた両面経編地で、表裏同一の構造であるから、編地がカールするような癖がないので取り扱い易く、衣服の芯材に用いても形態が変化するようなことがない。 In the present invention, the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric, and the warp knitting structure comprising the connecting yarn that integrates the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric are knitted, and a part or all of the connecting yarn is heated. A double-sided warp knitted fabric in which the connecting yarn is inserted into a sinker loop of a front knitted fabric constituting the front knitted fabric and a sinker loop of a back knitted fabric constituting the back knitted fabric, the same structure on both sides Therefore, since there is no wrinkle that curls the knitted fabric, it is easy to handle, and even if it is used as the core material of clothes, the form does not change.
また、本発明の経編芯地は両面経編地であるから分厚くて張り、腰を有するので、他の材料を複合させることなくそのままで張り、腰が要求されるような学生服の詰襟用やズボンの腰回り用の芯材として適用できる。 Also, since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-sided warp knitted fabric, it is thick and stretched and has a waist. It can be applied as a core material for waists and pants.
また、連結糸を表編地および裏編地に編み込ませず、表編地と裏編地のシンカーループに挿入させて一体化させているので、連結糸に低融点ポリマー糸を使用しても経編地の表裏面に低融点ポリマー成分が現れず、低融点ポリマー糸の溶融温度以上で熱セットしても表地から低融点ポリマー成分が滲み出るような問題の懸念がない。 In addition, since the connecting yarn is not knitted into the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric, but is integrated by being inserted into the sinker loop of the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric, a low melting point polymer yarn can be used as the connecting yarn. The low melting point polymer component does not appear on the front and back surfaces of the warp knitted fabric, and there is no concern about the problem that the low melting point polymer component oozes from the surface material even when heat setting is performed at a temperature higher than the melting temperature of the low melting point polymer yarn.
また、異なる振り幅の連結糸は互いに異なる斜め方向に向いた状態で交錯して表編地と裏編地を一体化しているので、表編地面と裏編地面の剪断変形が抑止され、優れた形態安定性を発揮する。 In addition, since the connecting yarns with different swing widths are crossed in different oblique directions and the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric are integrated, shear deformation of the front knitted ground and the back knitted fabric is suppressed, and is excellent. Demonstrate morphological stability.
また、連結糸に鞘部が低融点ポリマー、芯部が高融点ポリマーで構成される芯鞘複合糸を用い、異なる振りの連結糸同士の絡合状態で接着させることにより、高剛性となるのでより一層高い張り、腰を有した経編芯地となる。 In addition, using a core-sheath composite yarn composed of a low-melting-point polymer sheath and a high-melting-point core in the connecting yarn, and bonding in an entangled state between the connecting yarns of different swings, it becomes highly rigid. It becomes a warp knitted fabric with even higher tension and waist.
更にまた、表編地および/または裏編地において、その一部または全部に色糸を用いて、裁断線や縫製のための中央位置を印すことで、縫製加工の効率化が行える。 Furthermore, in the front knitted fabric and / or the back knitted fabric, the sewing process can be made more efficient by marking the cutting line and the center position for sewing using a part or all of the colored yarn.
本発明を実施するための形態を、具体的に図示した図面に基づいて、更に詳細に説明すると、次のとおりである。 The mode for carrying out the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the drawings specifically illustrated as follows.
図1は本発明の経編芯地を説明するための編地構造を示し、符号1が本発明の経編芯地で、符号2は表側鎖編糸4からなる表側編目列f1、f2、f3、f4・・とヨコ挿入糸6とからなる表編地2を示し、符号3は裏側鎖編糸5からなる裏側編目列b1、b2、b3、b4・・とヨコ挿入糸7からなる裏編地3を示す。 FIG. 1 shows a knitted fabric structure for explaining a warp knitted fabric of the present invention, wherein reference numeral 1 is a warp knitted fabric of the present invention, and reference numeral 2 is a front side stitch row f1, f2, consisting of front side chain knitting yarns 4. The front knitted fabric 2 is composed of f3, f4,... and the weft insertion yarn 6. Reference numeral 3 is a back surface composed of the back side stitch rows b1, b2, b3, b4,. The knitted fabric 3 is shown.
ヨコ挿入糸6および7はそれぞれ5針のヨコ振り挿入の例を示したが、2針以上のヨコ振りであればよく、ヨコ振り幅を大きくして配列する糸量が増大させることで、経編芯地1に張り、腰効果を増大させることが出来るので好ましい。 The horizontal insertion threads 6 and 7 are each shown as an example of horizontal insertion of 5 stitches. However, it is sufficient that the horizontal insertion is more than 2 stitches. It is preferable because it can be stretched on the knitted fabric 1 and the waist effect can be increased.
そして、表編地2と裏編地3間に1針挿入組織の連結糸8と2針挿入組織の連結糸9が配置され、それぞれの連結糸8、9は表編地2の鎖編組織のシンカーループと裏編地3の鎖編組織のシンカーループに挿入されて表編地2と裏編地3を連結一体させて、連結糸8、9は経編芯地1の表裏には出現しない編地構造である。 A connecting yarn 8 having a one-needle insertion structure and a connecting thread 9 having a two-needle insertion structure are arranged between the front knitted fabric 2 and the back knitted fabric 3, and the connecting yarns 8 and 9 are connected to the chain stitch structure of the front knitted fabric 2. Are inserted into the sinker loop of the chain stitch structure of the back knitted fabric 3 and the back knitted fabric 3 to connect the front knitted fabric 2 and the back knitted fabric 3 together, and the connecting yarns 8 and 9 appear on the front and back of the warp knitted fabric 1 Not knitted fabric structure.
すなわち、1針挿入組織の連結糸8は表側編目列f1、f2、f3、f4・・とそれぞれ対向する裏側編目列b1、b2、b3、b4・・との間を連結しながらコース方向にジグザグ状で挿入されており、一方、2針挿入組織の連結糸9は、表側編目列f1、f2、f3、f4・・とそれぞれ対向する裏側編目列b1、b2、b3、b4・・・に対して隣の編目列(斜め方向)と連結しながら挿入されており、表編地2および裏編地3と二つの異なる連結糸8、連結糸9はトラス構造のように配向し合うので、表編地2と裏編地3の剪断変形の動きが抑止され、非常に形態安定した経編地となる。 That is, the connecting yarn 8 of the one-needle insertion structure is zigzag in the course direction while connecting the front side stitch rows f1, f2, f3, f4... And the back side stitch rows b1, b2, b3, b4. On the other hand, the connecting yarn 9 of the two-needle insertion structure is inserted into the back side stitch rows b1, b2, b3, b4... Facing the front side stitch rows f1, f2, f3, f4. The front knitted fabric 2 and the back knitted fabric 3 and the two different connecting yarns 8 and 9 are connected to each other like a truss structure. The movement of the shear deformation of the knitted fabric 2 and the back knitted fabric 3 is suppressed, and a warp knitted fabric having a very stable shape is obtained.
なお、連結糸8、9の挿入組織は1針挿入と2針挿入の組み合わせだけでなく1針挿入と3針挿入とか、あるいは3種類の組み合わせであってもトラス構造の配向が出来れば構わない。また、用いる糸種としては、連結糸8、9以外の鎖編糸4、5、およびヨコ挿入糸6、7は特に限定されないが、少なくとも連結糸8、9に熱可塑性繊維糸を用いることで、2種の連結糸8、9が互いに絡み合った状態で熱セットされて経編地自体の剛性が増すので、連結糸には熱可塑性繊維糸を採用することが好ましい。 The insertion structure of the connecting yarns 8 and 9 is not limited to the combination of one-needle insertion and two-needle insertion, but may be one-needle insertion and three-needle insertion, or a combination of three types as long as the truss structure can be oriented. . Further, the yarn types to be used are not particularly limited to the chain knitting yarns 4 and 5 and the weft insertion yarns 6 and 7 other than the connecting yarns 8 and 9, but at least the connecting yarns 8 and 9 are made of thermoplastic fiber yarns. Since the two types of connecting yarns 8 and 9 are heat-set in a state where they are intertwined with each other, the warp knitted fabric itself has increased rigidity. Therefore, it is preferable to use a thermoplastic fiber yarn as the connecting yarn.
本発明の経編芯地1は、上述したように表裏が同じの両面経編地構造であるから編地がカールするような癖がなく、衣服の芯材に用いても形態が変化するようなことがないし、また、異なる振り幅の連結糸が互いに異なる方向に向いた状態で交錯して表編地と裏編地を一体化しているので、表編地面と裏編地面の剪断変形が抑止され、優れた形態安定性を発揮する特徴がある。 Since the warp knitted fabric 1 of the present invention has a double-sided warp knitted fabric structure with the same front and back as described above, there is no wrinkle that curls the knitted fabric, and the form changes even when used as a garment core. In addition, since the connecting yarns of different swing widths are crossed in directions different from each other and the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric are integrated, the shear deformation of the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric is prevented. It is suppressed and has excellent morphological stability.
本発明の経編芯地1の連結糸8、9に鞘部が低融点ポリマー、芯部が高融点ポリマーで構成される芯鞘複合糸を用い、編成後に低融点ポリマーの溶融温度以上に加熱することで、連結糸8、9の絡み合い交錯部、および鎖編糸4、5のシンカーループとの交錯部において、低融点ポリマーで強固に接着し、より一層の剛性が増し、張り、腰を有した経編芯地1を得ることが出来る。 The connecting yarns 8 and 9 of the warp knitted core 1 of the present invention use a core-sheath composite yarn in which the sheath is made of a low-melting polymer and the core is made of a high-melting polymer. As a result, the connecting yarns 8 and 9 are intertwined with each other and the cross-knitting portions of the chain knitting yarns 4 and 5 with the sinker loop are firmly bonded with a low melting point polymer, and the rigidity is further increased. The warp knitted fabric 1 that has it can be obtained.
芯鞘複合糸としては、ポリエステル、ポリアミドあるいはポリエチレン等の熱可塑性ポリマーからなり、なかでも、弾性率の高いポリエステルの熱可塑性ポリマーが好ましい。そして融点が100〜180℃程度の低融点ポリマーが鞘部で、低融点ポリマーの融点より20℃程度以上高いポリマーを芯部にして溶融紡糸された複合糸であることが好ましく、通常の高融点ポリマーから成る繊維糸を芯にし、低融点ポリマー100%からなる繊維糸をカバーリングした複合糸であっても構わない。 The core-sheath composite yarn is made of a thermoplastic polymer such as polyester, polyamide, or polyethylene, and among them, a polyester thermoplastic polymer having a high elastic modulus is preferable. The low melting point polymer having a melting point of about 100 to 180 ° C. is preferably a composite yarn that is melt-spun with a polymer having a sheath portion that is higher than the melting point of the low melting point polymer by about 20 ° C. or more. A composite yarn in which a fiber yarn made of a polymer is used as a core and a fiber yarn made of 100% low melting point polymer is covered may be used.
また、本発明の経編芯地1の連結糸8、9に低融点ポリマーを含む複合糸を用いても、連結糸8、9は表編地2、および裏編地3の表面に出現せず経編芯地1の内側に留まっているので、芯地を用いた衣服等に高温処理されても低融点ポリマーが衣服表面に滲み出るような懸念がない。 Even if a composite yarn containing a low melting point polymer is used for the connecting yarns 8 and 9 of the warp knitted core fabric 1 of the present invention, the connecting yarns 8 and 9 appear on the surface of the front knitted fabric 2 and the back knitted fabric 3. Since it remains inside the warp knitted interlining 1, there is no concern that the low melting point polymer will ooze out on the surface of the garment even if the garment or the like using the interlining is subjected to a high temperature treatment.
本発明の経編芯地1は、2つの針床を有した通常のダブルラッセル経編機にて製造することが出来、使用する編機のゲージ、コース密度や編糸の繊度などは要求される経編芯地1の目付や厚さ、あるいは剛性などにより適宜選択されるが、好ましい範囲としては、編機のゲージが9〜36ゲージ、コース密度が10〜40コース/25.4mm、編糸の繊度が30〜1000dtexの範囲が好ましい。 The warp knitted fabric 1 of the present invention can be manufactured with a normal double raschel warp knitting machine having two needle beds, and the gauge, the course density, the fineness of the knitting yarn, etc. of the knitting machine to be used are required. The warp knitting core 1 is appropriately selected depending on the basis weight, thickness, rigidity, etc. As preferred ranges, the knitting machine gauge is 9 to 36 gauge, the course density is 10 to 40 course / 25.4 mm, The fineness of the yarn is preferably in the range of 30 to 1000 dtex.
また、本発明の経編芯地1の表編地2、あるいは裏編地3をメッシュ組織とすることが出来、通気性が要求されるような衣服の芯地として有効であるし、また、目付低減にも効果を発揮することから好ましい態様である。 Further, the front knitted fabric 2 or the back knitted fabric 3 of the warp knitted fabric 1 of the present invention can be made into a mesh structure, and is effective as a garment for clothing that requires air permeability, This is a preferred embodiment because it also has an effect on reducing the basis weight.
更にまた、本発明の経編芯地1の表編地2、あるいは裏編地3の一部または全部に色糸を使用することが出来、経編芯地1の裁断線、あるいは中心線となるところの目印として色糸を配置させておけば、縫製時にいちいち採寸することなく裁断や縫製が出来、縫製作業を効率化させることが出来る。
『実施例』
Furthermore, colored yarn can be used for part or all of the front knitted fabric 2 or the back knitted fabric 3 of the warp knitted fabric 1 of the present invention. If a colored thread is arranged as a mark of the place, cutting and sewing can be performed without measuring each time during sewing, and the sewing work can be made efficient.
"Example"
次に、本実施形態の芯地について説明する。
カールマイヤー製の24ゲージのダブルラッセル機を用い、図2に示す組織、表1および表2に示す糸使いと編成条件で本発明の経編芯地1を以下の方法で編成した。
Next, the interlining of this embodiment will be described.
Using a 24-gauge double raschel machine made by KARL MAYER, the warp knitted fabric 1 of the present invention was knitted by the following method with the structure shown in FIG. 2, the yarn use and the knitting conditions shown in Table 1 and Table 2.
経編芯地1は、経糸ガイド筬L2でバックニードル列による鎖編糸5で経糸ガイド筬L6の5針ヨコ振り挿入糸7を一体保持して裏側編目列b1、b2、b3、b4・・による裏編地3と、経糸ガイド筬L5でフロントニードル列による鎖編糸4で経糸ガイド筬L1の5針ヨコ振り挿入糸6を一体保持して表側編目列f1、f2、f3、f4・・・による表編地2を形成させると同時に経糸ガイド筬L3の1針挿入糸8、および経糸ガイド筬L4の2針振り挿入糸9による連結糸で一体化された両面経編地の本発明の経編芯地1を得た。 The warp knitted fabric 1 has a back side stitch row b1, b2, b3, b4,... Held integrally with a warp guide rod L2 by a chain stitch yarn 5 by a back needle row and a 5-needle swing insertion yarn 7 of the warp guide rod L6. The front knitting row f1, f2, f3, f4,... Is integrally held by the back knitted fabric 3 by the warp guide rod L5 and the chain stitch yarn 4 by the front needle row and the five-needle swing insertion yarn 6 of the warp guide rod L1. The double-sided warp knitted fabric of the present invention is formed by forming the front knitted fabric 2 by the above and simultaneously connecting the connecting yarns of the one-needle insertion yarn 8 of the warp guide guide L3 and the two-needle swing insertion yarn 9 of the warp guide guide L4. A warp knitted interlining 1 was obtained.
編成された経編芯地1を乾熱式熱セット加工機を用い、200℃で処理時間2分の条件で熱処理加工を行い、実際に学生服の詰襟用として縫製加工を行った結果、縫製性、外観、張り、腰において問題なく、良好な結果であった。 The knitted warp knitted fabric 1 was heat-treated using a dry heat type heat setting machine at 200 ° C under the condition of a treatment time of 2 minutes. There was no problem in the properties, appearance, tension and waist, and the results were good.
本発明の経編芯地1は、他の材料を貼り合わせることなく張り、腰を有した芯材となることから、それらの特性が要求される用途への展開が可能で産業上の利用価値は大きい。 The warp knitted core fabric 1 of the present invention is stretched without bonding other materials and becomes a core material having a waist. Therefore, the warp knitted core fabric 1 can be developed for applications requiring these characteristics and has industrial utility value. Is big.
1:本発明の芯地
2:表側編目
f1、f2、f3、f4:表側編目列
3:裏側編目
b1、b2、b3、b4:裏側編目列
4:表編地鎖編糸
5:裏編地鎖編糸
6:表側5針ヨコ挿入糸
7:裏側5針ヨコ挿入糸
8;1針挿入連結糸
9:2針挿入連結糸
1: Interlining of the present invention 2: Front side stitches f1, f2, f3, f4: Front side stitch row 3: Back side stitches b1, b2, b3, b4: Back side stitch row 4: Front knitted fabric knitting yarn 5: Back knitted fabric Chain stitch yarn
6: Front side 5-needle insertion thread 7: Back side 5 needle insertion thread 8; 1-needle insertion thread 9: 2-needle insertion thread
Claims (3)
更に前記連結糸に、鞘部が低融点ポリマー、芯部が高融点ポリマーで構成される芯鞘複合糸が使用されると共に、前記連結糸が、編成コース毎のウェール方向への振り巾が異なる2種類以上から構成されて、互いに交絡し、その交絡点において連結糸同士が接着していることを特徴とする経編芯地。 Knitted in a warp knitting structure composed of a connecting yarn that integrates a front knitted fabric and a back knitted fabric, and a front knitted fabric and a back knitted fabric, a part or all of the connecting yarn is a thermoplastic yarn, The connecting yarn is inserted into the sinker loop of the front stitch constituting the front knitted fabric and the sinker loop of the back stitch constituting the back knitted fabric, respectively, and has a knitted fabric structure in which the connecting yarn does not appear on the front and back sides.
Furthermore, a core-sheath composite yarn in which the sheath portion is made of a low melting point polymer and the core portion is made of a high melting point polymer is used for the connecting yarn, and the connecting yarn has a different swing width in the wale direction for each knitting course. A warp knitted fabric comprising two or more types, entangled with each other, and connected yarns bonded at the entanglement point .
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