JP5657455B2 - Oily cosmetic base and oily cosmetic - Google Patents
Oily cosmetic base and oily cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5657455B2 JP5657455B2 JP2011080840A JP2011080840A JP5657455B2 JP 5657455 B2 JP5657455 B2 JP 5657455B2 JP 2011080840 A JP2011080840 A JP 2011080840A JP 2011080840 A JP2011080840 A JP 2011080840A JP 5657455 B2 JP5657455 B2 JP 5657455B2
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- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- oily cosmetic
- cosmetic base
- oily
- copolymer
- base according
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002549 elastin Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 238000001879 gelation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002306 glutamic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- OIKBVOIOVNEVJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 6-methylheptanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCC(C)C OIKBVOIOVNEVJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052588 hydroxylapatite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940071085 lauroyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000395 magnesium oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium oxide Inorganic materials [Mg]=O CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 1
- WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl p-hydroxycinnamate Natural products OC(=O)C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004200 microcrystalline wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019808 microcrystalline wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052627 muscovite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000620 organic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Al]O[Al]=O TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001173 oxybenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019809 paraffin wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N perfluorodecane Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)C(F)(F)F BPHQIXJDBIHMLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010702 perfluoropolyether Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002952 polymeric resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920005990 polystyrene resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229960004063 propylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RMAQACBXLXPBSY-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicic acid Chemical compound O[Si](O)(O)O RMAQACBXLXPBSY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012239 silicon dioxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002803 thermoplastic polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019149 tocopherols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
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- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical class OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GZIFEOYASATJEH-VHFRWLAGSA-N δ-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=CC(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 GZIFEOYASATJEH-VHFRWLAGSA-N 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は油性化粧料基剤に関する。詳細には、本発明は、N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドと油剤と(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーとを含む容易に粘度調整が可能な油性化粧料基剤、ならびに、さらに顔料などの化粧料成分を含む容易に粘度調整が可能な油性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic base. More specifically, the present invention relates to an oily cosmetic base capable of easily adjusting the viscosity, which contains N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, an oil agent, and an (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, and further a pigment, etc. The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic that can be easily adjusted in viscosity.
油性化粧料には、その適用形態に応じて、リップスティック、ファンデーションなどのように常温で固形状のものから、リップクリーム、アイカラー、リップグロス、オイルクレンジングなどのように、常温で半固形ないしゲル状のものまで種々の形態のものが存在する。 Depending on the type of application, oily cosmetics may be solid at room temperature, such as lipsticks and foundations, or semi-solid at room temperature, such as lip balm, eye color, lip gloss, oil cleansing, etc. There are various forms, including gels.
従来、このような固形ないしゲル状の油性化粧料を調製するために、ワックスや、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤または微粒子無水ケイ酸などのゲル化剤が用いられて化粧料の粘性が調整されている。
しかしながら、ワックスを用いた場合には低粘度域における安定性に優れた油性化粧料を調製するのが困難になる。一方、高粘度域においては、融点が高くなり、化粧料自体が硬くなってしまい、リップスティック等に使用した場合、塗布性が悪い等の使用性の低下が生じる。また、化粧料が不透明になって配合される顔料などの色彩にも悪影響を及ぼし、美しい外観を表現することができない。
また、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを用いた場合にはワックスを用いた場合よりも粘度調整が容易であり、透明性が高い油性化粧料を調製することができるが、低粘度域における安定性に劣るという欠点がある。
また、微粒子無水ケイ酸を用いた場合にはパサパサした仕上がりとなってしまったり、塗布時の伸びが重くなる等の使用感が悪くなり、また高粘度の油性化粧料を調製するためには多量に配合する必要があった。
さらに、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤を用いた場合には油性化粧料を透明にすることが可能となるが、低粘度域における安定性が十分ではないという欠点があった(特許文献1−3)。
Conventionally, in order to prepare such a solid or gel-like oily cosmetic, a gelling agent such as wax, dextrin fatty acid ester, amino acid-based gelling agent or fine particle silicic acid is used, and the viscosity of the cosmetic is reduced. It has been adjusted.
However, when a wax is used, it becomes difficult to prepare an oily cosmetic having excellent stability in a low viscosity region. On the other hand, in the high-viscosity region, the melting point becomes high, the cosmetic itself becomes hard, and when used for a lipstick or the like, the usability is deteriorated such as poor applicability. Further, it adversely affects the color of pigments and the like that are blended when the cosmetic becomes opaque, and a beautiful appearance cannot be expressed.
In addition, when dextrin fatty acid ester is used, viscosity adjustment is easier than when wax is used, and oily cosmetics with high transparency can be prepared, but the disadvantage of poor stability in the low viscosity region There is.
In addition, when fine silica is used, the finish becomes crisp, and the feeling of use such as increased elongation at the time of application becomes worse, and a large amount is required to prepare a high viscosity oily cosmetic. It was necessary to blend in.
Further, when an amino acid gelling agent is used, it is possible to make the oily cosmetic transparent, but there is a drawback that the stability in the low viscosity region is not sufficient (Patent Documents 1-3).
したがって、低粘度域から高粘度域にわたる硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、安定性や使用感に優れた油性化粧料が望まれていた。
さらに、配合する顔料などが固有に有する色彩に及ぼす影響が少なく、鮮やかな色を呈することができる油性化粧料が望まれていた。
Therefore, there has been a demand for an oily cosmetic that can easily adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength from a low viscosity range to a high viscosity range and that is excellent in stability and usability.
Furthermore, there has been a demand for an oily cosmetic that has a small effect on the inherent color of the pigment to be blended and can exhibit a vivid color.
本発明者らが、上記の課題のもとに鋭意検討した結果、従来から用いられているアミノ酸系ゲル化剤によりゲル化した油剤を、(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーと組み合わせることにより低粘度域から高粘度域の全域にわたって硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、しかも安定性や使用感に優れた油性化粧料基剤が得られ、その基剤から同様の効果を有する油性化粧料が得られることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。
また、かかる油性化粧料基剤は特定の油剤を選択することにより透明な基剤とできるため、上記した特性に加えて鮮やかな顔料の色彩を呈することができる油性化粧料が得られることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。
As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors based on the above-mentioned problems, an oil agent that has been gelled with an amino acid-based gelling agent that has been conventionally used is combined with an (α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer to reduce the viscosity. An oily cosmetic base that is easy to adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength from the viscosity range to the high-viscosity range, and that has excellent stability and usability. The inventors have found that a cosmetic can be obtained and have completed the present invention.
Further, since such an oily cosmetic base can be made into a transparent base by selecting a specific oil, it has been found that an oily cosmetic capable of exhibiting a vivid pigment color in addition to the above-described properties can be obtained. The present invention has been completed.
すなわち、本発明は、
[1](A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミド、
(B)2質量%の(A)を溶解して生成したゲルの20℃におけるゲル降伏値が0.5 N/cm2以上となる油剤、および
(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー
を含む油性化粧料基剤;
[2](A)がN−2−エチルヘキサノイルグルタミン酸ジブチルアミドおよびN−ラウロイルグルタミン酸ジブチルアミドのいずれか一方または両方である前記[1]記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[3](B)がホホバ油、水添ポリイソブテン、トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル−2、トリエチルヘキサノイン、ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコールおよびラウロイルグルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル/オクチルドデシル)よりなる群から選択される1種または2種以上の成分である前記[1]または[2]に記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[4](C)が(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー、(ビニルピロリドン/ヘキサデセン)コポリマーおよびトリコンタニル・ポリビニルピロリドンよりなる群から選択される1種または2種以上の成分である前記[1]ないし[3]のいずれか1に記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[5](A)および(C)を質量比にて(A):(C)=1:1〜500:1で含む前記[1]ないし[4]のいずれか1に記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[6](A)および(C)を質量比にて(A):(C)=2:1〜200:1で含む前記[5]に記載の油性化粧料基剤;および
[7]さらに、(A)を150℃以下で溶解することができる溶剤を含む前記[1]ないし[6]のいずれか1に記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[8]溶剤がオクチルドデカノールである前記[7]に記載の油性化粧料基剤;
[9]前記[1]ないし[8]のいずれか1に記載の油性化粧料基剤を含む油性化粧料を提供する。
That is, the present invention
[1] (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide,
(B) an oil agent in which a gel yield value at 20 ° C. of a gel formed by dissolving 2% by mass of (A) is 0.5 N / cm 2 or more, and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer Oily cosmetic base;
[2] The oily cosmetic base according to [1], wherein (A) is one or both of N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide and N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide;
[3] (B) is jojoba oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyglyceryl triisostearate, triethylhexanoin, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, and di (phytosteryl / octyl) lauroyl glutamate The oily cosmetic base according to the above [1] or [2], which is one or more components selected from the group consisting of dodecyl);
[4] The above [1] to [C] wherein (C) is one or more components selected from the group consisting of (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer, (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer and tricontanyl polyvinyl pyrrolidone. 3] The oily cosmetic base according to any one of
[5] The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein (A) and (C) are contained in a mass ratio of (A) :( C) = 1: 1 to 500: 1. Base;
[6] The oily cosmetic base according to [5] above, containing (A) and (C) in a mass ratio of (A) :( C) = 2: 1 to 200: 1; and [7] The oily cosmetic base according to any one of [1] to [6], comprising a solvent capable of dissolving (A) at 150 ° C. or lower;
[8] The oily cosmetic base according to [7], wherein the solvent is octyldodecanol;
[9] An oily cosmetic comprising the oily cosmetic base according to any one of [1] to [8] is provided.
本発明によれば、低粘度域から高粘度域にわたって硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、しかも安定性や使用感に優れた油性化粧料基剤およびそれを含む油性化粧料を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to easily adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength from a low viscosity region to a high viscosity region, and to provide an oily cosmetic base excellent in stability and feeling of use, and an oily cosmetic containing the same. can do.
本発明は、第1の態様において、(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミド、(B)2質量%の(A)を溶解して生成したゲルの20℃におけるゲル降伏値が0.5 N/cm2以上となる油剤および(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーを含む油性化粧料基剤を提供する。 In the first aspect of the present invention, the gel yield value at 20 ° C. of a gel formed by dissolving (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, (B) 2% by mass of (A) is 0.5 N An oily cosmetic base comprising an oil agent having a / cm 2 or more and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer is provided.
本発明の油性化粧料基剤に用いる(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドは、一般式I:
本発明の油性化粧料基剤に用いる(B)油剤は、N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドで十分に固化、粘度上昇できることが必要である。(B)油剤は、上記N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドを2質量%で溶解して生成したゲルの20℃におけるゲル降伏値が0.5 N/cm2以上となるものであれば特に限定されるものではない。
ここで定義するゲル降伏値は、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを2質量%で溶解した油剤30gを30mLのジャー容器に充填し、20℃で24時間以上静置した後、不動工業株式会社製レオメーター2020ND−Dを用いて、テーブルスピード30cm/min、15mmないし25mm径を有する円盤状の押し型で測定し、進入開始時点から15mm進入するまでに測定される応力の最大値である。
The oil agent (B) used in the oily cosmetic base of the present invention must be sufficiently solidified and increase in viscosity with N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide. (B) The oil agent is particularly limited as long as the gel yield value at 20 ° C. of the gel formed by dissolving the N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide at 2% by mass is 0.5 N / cm 2 or more. It is not something.
The gel yield value defined here is as follows: 30 g of an oil agent in which N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide was dissolved at 2% by mass was filled in a 30 mL jar and allowed to stand at 20 ° C. for 24 hours or longer. Using a company-made rheometer 2020ND-D, measured with a disk-shaped stamping die with a table speed of 30 cm / min and a diameter of 15 mm to 25 mm, it is the maximum value of stress measured from the start of entry to 15 mm. .
このような油剤には、例えば、1,3−ブチレングリコールなどのポリオール、ホホバ油などの植物油(液状ロウ)、水添ポリイソブテンなどの炭化水素油(流動イソパラフィンないし重質流動イソパラフィン)、トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル−2(ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル)、トリエチルヘキサノイン(トリグリセリド)、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル/オクチルドデシル)などのエステル油、ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコンなどのシリコーン油などが含まれる。これらの油剤は、1種または2種以上を油性化粧料基剤の全量に対して約10〜99質量%、好ましくは約30〜95質量%、より好ましくは約40〜95質量%、最も好ましくは約50〜95質量%配合することができる。油剤の配合量が約10質量%未満である場合や約99質量%を超える場合は、油性化粧料基剤の硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が困難となるため好ましくない。 Such oils include, for example, polyols such as 1,3-butylene glycol, vegetable oils such as jojoba oil (liquid wax), hydrocarbon oils such as hydrogenated polyisobutene (liquid isoparaffin or heavy liquid isoparaffin), triisostearic acid Ester oil such as polyglyceryl-2 (polyglycerin fatty acid ester), triethylhexanoin (triglyceride), diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), diphenylsiloxy Silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicone are included. These oil agents are used in an amount of about 10 to 99% by mass, preferably about 30 to 95% by mass, more preferably about 40 to 95% by mass, and most preferably one or more types based on the total amount of the oily cosmetic base. Can be blended in an amount of about 50 to 95% by mass. When the blending amount of the oil is less than about 10% by mass or exceeds about 99% by mass, it is not preferable because it is difficult to adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength of the oily cosmetic base.
本発明の油性化粧料基剤に用いる(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーは、炭素原子数12〜36のα−オレフィンとビニルピロリドンとから合成されるコポリマーであり、好ましくはISP Japan株式会社からAntaron(登録商標)V-220として販売されている(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー、同社からAntaron(登録商標)V-216として販売されている(ビニルピロリドン/ヘキサデセン)コポリマーおよび同社からAntaron(登録商標)WP-660として販売されているトリコンタニル・ポリビニルピロリドンよりなる群から選択される1または2種以上である。これらのコポリマーは、いずれか1種または2種以上を油性化粧料基剤の全量に対して約0.002〜1.0質量%、好ましくは約0.005〜0.5質量%、より好ましくは約0.01〜0.3質量%、最も好ましくは約0.02〜0.2質量%配合することができる。
また、本発明の油性化粧料基剤は、(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドと(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーとを質量比にて(A):(C)=約1:1〜約500:1、好ましくは約2:1〜約200:1で用いる。(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーが上記の油性化粧料基剤の全量に対する配合比率や(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドとの配合比の範囲外となる場合は、油性化粧料基剤の硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が困難となるため好ましくない。
The (C) (α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer used in the oily cosmetic base of the present invention is a copolymer synthesized from an α-olefin having 12 to 36 carbon atoms and vinyl pyrrolidone, preferably ISP Japan. (Eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer sold by Antaron (registered trademark) V-220 from the company, and (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer sold by the company as Antaron (registered trademark) V-216. (Registered trademark) One or more selected from the group consisting of tricontanyl and polyvinylpyrrolidone sold as WP-660. These copolymers are used in an amount of about 0.002 to 1.0% by weight, preferably about 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably about 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total amount of the oily cosmetic base. Most preferably, about 0.02 to 0.2 mass% can be blended.
Further, the oily cosmetic base of the present invention comprises (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer in a mass ratio (A): (C). = About 1: 1 to about 500: 1, preferably about 2: 1 to about 200: 1. If the (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer is outside the range of the blending ratio with respect to the total amount of the above-mentioned oily cosmetic base or the blending ratio with (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, the oily cosmetic It is not preferable because it is difficult to adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength of the base.
さらに、本発明の油性化粧料基剤には、(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドの溶解を容易にするために溶剤を用いることができる。かかる溶剤を配合することにより油性化粧料基剤の製造工程における取扱い性をさらに向上することができる。
本発明の油性化粧料基剤に用いる溶剤は、150℃以下で(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドを溶解し得るものであれば特に限定されるものではないが、好ましくはオクチルドデカノールである。
Furthermore, a solvent can be used in the oily cosmetic base of the present invention in order to facilitate the dissolution of (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide. By blending such a solvent, the handleability in the production process of the oily cosmetic base can be further improved.
The solvent used in the oily cosmetic base of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can dissolve (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide at 150 ° C. or lower, but preferably octyldedeca Nord.
本発明の油性化粧料基剤は、例えば、(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドを、約150℃以下の温度で(B)油剤に溶解させてから、その溶液に(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーを加えて約100〜120℃にて溶解または均一に分散させるか、または(B)油剤および(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーの混合物に加えて約100〜120℃にて溶解または均一に分散させた後、脱泡して、放冷または水冷で80〜90℃程度に冷却し、十分に流動性がある状態で容器に流し込み、その後固まるまで冷却することにより製造することができる。
あるいは、(A)N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドは、所望により、溶剤に溶解した後に、(B)油剤に、または(B)油剤および(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーの混合物に加えることにより、より低い温度で溶解または均一に分散させることができ、製造工程における取扱い性を向上することができる。
The oily cosmetic base of the present invention is prepared by, for example, dissolving (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide in (B) the oil at a temperature of about 150 ° C. or lower, and then adding (C) ( The α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer is added and dissolved or uniformly dispersed at about 100-120 ° C., or added to the mixture of (B) oil and (C) (α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer. Dissolve or uniformly disperse at 100-120 ° C, degas, cool to about 80-90 ° C by standing or water cooling, pour into a container with sufficient fluidity, and then cool until solidified Can be manufactured.
Alternatively, (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide is optionally dissolved in a solvent before (B) the oil or (B) the oil and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer. By adding to a mixture, it can melt | dissolve or disperse | distribute uniformly at lower temperature, and can improve the handleability in a manufacturing process.
また、本発明は、第2の態様において、前記した油性化粧料基剤に化粧料成分を加えて調製される油性化粧料を提供する。
本発明の油性化粧料に用いる化粧料成分は、本発明の効果を損なわないものであれば特に限定されるものではないが、顔料ないし粉体、(A)以外のゲル化剤、(B)以外の油剤、(C)以外のポリマー、(A)を150℃以下で溶解することができる溶剤以外の溶剤、または酸化防止剤などである。
Moreover, this invention provides the oil-based cosmetics prepared by adding a cosmetic ingredient to the oily cosmetic base described above in the second aspect.
The cosmetic ingredient used in the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention, but is a pigment or powder, a gelling agent other than (A), (B) Other than the oil agent, the polymer other than (C), the solvent other than the solvent capable of dissolving (A) at 150 ° C. or lower, or the antioxidant.
顔料ないし粉体としては、例えば、形状や粒子径、粒子構造によって特に限定されることはなく球状、板状、針状あるいは微粒子、多孔質、無孔質等のものも使用することができ、無機粉体類、光輝性粉体類、有機粉体類、色素粉体類、金属粉体類、複合粉体類等、通常化粧品に使用されるものであれば特に制限されず、いずれのものも使用することができる。
具体的には、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、硫酸バリウム等の白色無機顔料、酸化鉄、カーボンブラック、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、紺青、群青等の有色無機顔料、タルク、白雲母、金雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母、合成金雲母、絹雲母(セリサイト)、合成セリサイト、カオリン、酸化アルミニウム、酸化マグネシウム、酸化ジルコニウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ヒドロキシアパタイト、窒化ホウ素、無水ケイ酸等の白色体質粉体、酸化チタン被覆雲母、酸化鉄雲母チタン、紺青処理雲母チタン、カルミン処理雲母チタン、オキシ塩化ビスマス等の光輝性粉体、ポリアクリル系樹脂、フッ素系樹脂、セルロース系樹脂、ポリスチレン系樹脂、スチレン−アクリル共重合体等のコポリマー樹脂、シリコーン樹脂、ウレタン樹脂等の有機高分子樹脂粉体、赤色201号、赤色202号、青色404号、黄色401号等の有機顔料粉体、赤色104号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、緑色3号、青色1号等のジルコニウム、バリウムまたはアルミニウムレーキ等の有機顔料粉体等が挙げられる。
As the pigment or powder, for example, there is no particular limitation depending on the shape, particle diameter, particle structure, and spherical, plate-like, needle-like or fine particles, porous, nonporous, etc. can be used. Inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders, and the like are not particularly limited as long as they are usually used in cosmetics. Can also be used.
Specifically, white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide and barium sulfate, colored inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, carbon black, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen and ultramarine, talc, muscovite, phlogopite, red Mica, biotite, synthetic phlogopite, sericite, synthetic sericite, kaolin, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum silicate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, silicic anhydride, etc. , Titanium oxide-coated mica, iron oxide mica titanium, bituminized mica titanium, carmine-treated mica titanium, luminescent powder such as bismuth oxychloride, polyacrylic resin, fluorine resin, cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, styrene Copolymer resin such as acrylic copolymer, organic polymer resin powder such as silicone resin, urethane resin, Organic pigment powder such as color 201, red 202, blue 404, yellow 401, red 104, orange 205, yellow 4, yellow 5, green 3, blue 1, etc. zirconium, barium Or organic pigment powders, such as aluminum lake, etc. are mentioned.
これらの顔料ないし粉体は、1種または2種以上を用いることができ、必要に応じて、フッ素系化合物、シリコーン系化合物、金属石鹸、水素添加レシチン、コラーゲン等を用いて、公知の方法により表面処理を施したものであってもよい。 These pigments or powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and if necessary, using a fluorine compound, silicone compound, metal soap, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, etc., by a known method. A surface treatment may be performed.
また、(B)以外の油剤としては、例えば、植物油、合成油や固形油、半固形油等性状や起源を問わず、種々の炭化水素類、油脂類、ロウ類、硬化油類、エステル油類、脂肪酸類、高級アルコール類、シリコーン油類、フッ素系油類、ラノリン誘導体類、油性ゲル化剤類等を使用することができる。
具体的には、ワセリン、パラフィンワックス、セレシン、ワックス、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、ポリエチレンワックス、エチレン・プロピレンコポリマー、等の炭化水素類、モクロウ、等の油脂類、ミツロウ、カルナウバワックス、キャンデリラワックス、ゲイロウ等のロウ類、セチルイソオクタネート、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、トリベヘン酸グリセリル、ロジン酸ペンタエリトリットエステル、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)等のエステル類、ステアリン酸、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、ベヘン酸、イソステアリン酸等の脂肪酸類、ステアリルアルコール、ラウリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール等の高級アルコール類、ジメチルポリシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン、フッ素変性ポリシロキサン等のシリコーン類、パーフルオロデカン、パーフルオロポリエーテル等のフッ素系油剤類等を使用することができる。
In addition, as the oil agent other than (B), for example, various hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, regardless of properties and origins such as vegetable oils, synthetic oils, solid oils, semi-solid oils, etc. , Fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents and the like can be used.
Specifically, petroleum jelly such as petroleum jelly, paraffin wax, ceresin, wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, etc., oil such as owl, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, gay wax Waxes such as cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl tribehenate, pentaerythritol ester of rosin acid, cholesterol fatty acid ester, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), etc. Esters, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol Silicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, silicone such as fluorine-modified polysiloxane, fluorine oils such as perfluorodecane, perfluoropolyether, etc. Can be used.
また、オクチルドデカノール以外の溶剤としては、例えば、セチルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコールやプロピレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、ポリグリセリン等の多価アルコール類を使用することができる。 Examples of the solvent other than octyldodecanol include polyvalent solvents such as cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin. Alcohols can be used.
さらに、(C)以外のポリマーとしては、例えば、ポリエチレンワックス等を使用することができる。
酸化防止剤としては、天然ビタミンEやd−δ−トコフェロール等のトコフェロール類、ジブチルヒドロキシトルエンやブチルヒドロキシアニソール等を使用することができる。
Furthermore, as the polymer other than (C), for example, polyethylene wax or the like can be used.
As the antioxidant, natural vitamin E, tocopherols such as d-δ-tocopherol, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole and the like can be used.
それ以外にも、界面活性剤としては、化粧料一般に用いられている界面活性剤であればいずれのものも使用でき、非イオン性界面活性剤、アニオン性界面活性剤、カチオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤等が挙げられる。例えば、グリセリン脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステルおよびそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル共変性オルガノポリシロキサン、ポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサン、レシチン等が挙げられる。 In addition, any surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics can be used as the surfactant, and nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, Examples include amphoteric surfactants. For example, glycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitan fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyalkylene alkyl Modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene modified organopolysiloxane, lecithin and the like can be mentioned.
さらに、紫外線吸収剤としては、例えばベンゾフェノン系、PABA系、ケイ皮酸系、サリチル酸系、4−tert−ブチル−4'−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン、オキシベンゾン等、保湿剤としては、例えばタンパク質、ムコ多糖、コラーゲン、エラスチン、ケラチン等、美容成分としては、例えばビタミン類、消炎剤、生薬等、防腐剤としては、例えばパラオキシ安息香酸エステル、フェノキシエタノール、1,2−ペンタンジオール等が挙げられる。 Further, examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone-based, PABA-based, cinnamic acid-based, salicylic acid-based, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, etc., and humectants include, for example, protein, mucopolysaccharide Examples of cosmetic ingredients such as collagen, elastin and keratin include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents and herbal medicines, and examples of antiseptics include paraoxybenzoic acid ester, phenoxyethanol, and 1,2-pentanediol.
本発明の油性化粧料は、前記した任意の化粧料成分を、化粧料基剤の製造において(B)油剤および(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーと一緒に混合することによって製造することができる。また、任意の化粧料成分が高温で酸化/分解などを受け易い成分である場合は、適当な温度、例えば約40℃〜80℃の温度まで冷却してからその成分のみを加えることができる。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention is produced by mixing any of the above-described cosmetic ingredients together with (B) an oil and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer in the production of a cosmetic base. be able to. In addition, when an arbitrary cosmetic ingredient is an ingredient that is susceptible to oxidation / decomposition at a high temperature, it can be cooled to an appropriate temperature, for example, about 40 ° C. to 80 ° C., and then only that ingredient can be added.
本発明の油性化粧料は、リップスティック、リップクリームもしくはリップバーム、リップグロス、アイカラー、アイライナー、アイシャドウ、アイブロー、マスカラ、おしろい、フェイスパウダー、固形粉末状ファンデーション、油性ファンデーション、クリーム状ファンデーション、液体ファンデーション、チークカラー、コンシーラー、オイルクレンジング、マッサージオイルなどの商品とすることができる。また、本発明の油性化粧料は、粘性の調整が容易に行えることからチューブに充填して使用する形態の商品とすることができる。 The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is a lipstick, lip balm or lip balm, lip gloss, eye color, eyeliner, eye shadow, eyebrow, mascara, funny, face powder, solid powdered foundation, oily foundation, creamy foundation, Products such as liquid foundation, cheek color, concealer, oil cleansing, massage oil can be used. Moreover, since the oily cosmetics of this invention can adjust viscosity easily, it can be set as the goods of the form filled with a tube and used.
以下に、実施例に基づいて本発明をより詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例によって限定されるものではない。なお、別段指摘しない限り、実施例の処方において表す配合率の単位は質量%である。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, unless otherwise indicated, the unit of the mixture rate represented in the prescription of an Example is the mass%.
実施例1 (α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーがゲル降伏値に及ぼす影響の検討
以下の表1の処方にしたがって油性化粧料を調製し、下記の方法によりゲル降伏値を測定した。
Example 1 Examination of Effect of (α-Olefin / Vinylpyrrolidone) Copolymer on Gel Yield Value An oily cosmetic was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 1 below, and the gel yield value was measured by the following method.
N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミド(A)および油剤(B)を150℃にて加熱して溶解し、それに(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー(C)を120℃にて加えて溶解し、その他の成分を加え混合し、室温まで冷却してゲル化させた後に以下の方法によってゲル降伏値を測定した。
30gの調製した各油性化粧料1〜3を30mLのジャー容器に充填し、20℃にて24時間以上静置した。
レオメーター(不動工業株式会社製)2020ND−Dを用い、円盤状の押し型アダプター(15mmまたは25mm径)、テーブルスピード30cm/minの条件でゲル降伏値を測定し、進入開始時点から15mm進入するまでの最大剪断応力を測定してゲル降伏値とした。
その結果を以下の表2に示す。
N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (A) and oil agent (B) are dissolved by heating at 150 ° C., and (eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer (C) is added to 120 ° C. and dissolved therein. The components were added and mixed, and after cooling to room temperature and gelling, the gel yield value was measured by the following method.
30 g of each of the prepared oily cosmetics 1 to 3 was filled in a 30 mL jar and allowed to stand at 20 ° C. for 24 hours or more.
Using a rheometer (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 2020ND-D, measure the gel yield value with a disk-shaped push adapter (15 mm or 25 mm diameter) and a table speed of 30 cm / min. The maximum shear stress up to was measured as the gel yield value.
The results are shown in Table 2 below.
実施例2 (α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーがゲル降伏値に及ぼす影響の検討
以下の表3の処方にしたがって油性化粧料を調製し、下記の方法によりゲル降伏値を測定した。
Example 2 Examination of Effect of (α-Olefin / Vinylpyrrolidone) Copolymer on Gel Yield Value An oily cosmetic was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 3 below, and the gel yield value was measured by the following method.
N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミド(A)およびオクチルドデカノールを120〜140℃に加熱して溶解し、それに(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー(C)および油剤(B)を100〜120℃にて加えて溶解し、室温まで冷却してゲル化させた後に以下の方法によってゲル降伏値を測定した。
30gの調製した各油性化粧料4〜6を30mLのジャー容器に充填し、20℃にて24時間以上静置した。
レオメーター(不動工業株式会社製)2020ND−Dを用い、円盤状の押し型アダプター(15mmまたは25mm径)、テーブルスピード30cm/minの条件でゲル降伏値を測定し、進入開始時点から15mm進入するまでの最大剪断応力を測定してゲル降伏値とした。
その結果を以下の表4に示す。
N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (A) and octyldodecanol are dissolved by heating to 120-140 ° C., and (eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer (C) and oil agent (B) are heated to 100-120 ° C. The gel yield value was measured by the following method after cooling to room temperature and gelling.
30 g of each of the prepared oily cosmetics 4 to 6 was filled in a 30 mL jar and allowed to stand at 20 ° C. for 24 hours or more.
Using a rheometer (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 2020ND-D, measure the gel yield value with a disk-shaped push adapter (15 mm or 25 mm diameter) and a table speed of 30 cm / min. The maximum shear stress up to was measured as the gel yield value.
The results are shown in Table 4 below.
表4に示すように、N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミドおよび油剤のゲル組成物に配合した(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー濃度が増加するにしたがって油性化粧料のゲル降伏値は低下した。また、ゲル降伏値の低下はN−2−エチルヘキサノイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを配合した油性化粧料4において最も著しく、次いでN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを配合した油性化粧料5において著しく、両方のゲル化剤を1:1の混合比で配合した油性化粧料6は最も温和なゲル降伏値の低下を示した。 As shown in Table 4, the gel yield value of the oily cosmetic decreased as the concentration of the (eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer added to the gel composition of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide and the oil agent increased. Moreover, the decrease in the gel yield value is most remarkable in the oily cosmetic 4 formulated with N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, and then in the oily cosmetic 5 formulated with N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide. Remarkably, the oily cosmetic 6 in which both gelling agents were blended at a mixing ratio of 1: 1 showed the most gentle reduction in gel yield value.
実施例3 種々の(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーがゲル降伏値に及ぼす影響の検討
つぎに、実施例2において最も温和なゲル降伏値の低下を示したN−2−エチルヘキサノイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドおよびN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを配合した油性化粧料において、種々の(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーがゲル降伏値の低下に及ぼす影響を検討した。
以下の表5の処方にしたがって、実施例2と同様の方法で油性化粧料を調製し、ゲル降伏値を測定した。
その結果を表6に示す。
Example 3 Examination of the Effect of Various (α-Olefin / Vinylpyrrolidone) Copolymers on Gel Yield Value Next, N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L, which showed the mildest decrease in gel yield value in Example 2, was shown. -In oily cosmetics containing glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, the effects of various (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymers on the decrease in gel yield value were investigated.
According to the formulation shown in Table 5 below, an oily cosmetic was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, and the gel yield value was measured.
The results are shown in Table 6.
表6に示すように、N−2−エチルヘキサノイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドおよびN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドの両方を配合した油性化粧料において、供試したすべての(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーについて油性化粧料のゲル降伏値が低下した。また、油性化粧料のゲル降伏値低下の程度は、配合する(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーの種類によって異なり、実施例2において温和なゲル降伏値の低下を示した(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーよりも(ビニルピロリドン/ヘキサデセン)コポリマーまたはトリコンタニル・ポリビニルピロリドンを配合した油性化粧料8または9がさらに温和なゲル降伏値の低下を示した。
したがって、これらの(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーにより、硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、しかも安定性や使用感に優れた油性化粧料が得られることが判明した。
As shown in Table 6, in the oily cosmetics formulated with both N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, all (α-olefin / The gel yield value of oily cosmetics for the vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer decreased. Further, the degree of reduction in the gel yield value of the oily cosmetic varies depending on the type of the (α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer to be blended, and in Example 2, a mild decrease in the gel yield value was exhibited (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone). Oily cosmetics 8 or 9 formulated with (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer or tricontanyl polyvinylpyrrolidone showed a milder decrease in gel yield value than the copolymer.
Therefore, it was found that these (α-olefin / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymers can provide oily cosmetics that can be easily adjusted in hardness, viscosity, and gel strength, and that are excellent in stability and use feeling.
実施例4 油剤の違いによるアミノ酸系ゲル化剤のゲル化効果の検討
つぎに、基剤として用いる油剤の選択方法を検討した。
下記の表7に示す各種油剤にN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを2質量%溶解し、ゲル降伏値(N/cm2)を測定した。
その結果を表7に示す。
Example 4 Examination of Gelation Effect of Amino Acid Gelator by Difference in Oil Agent Next, a method for selecting an oil agent to be used as a base was examined.
2% by mass of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide was dissolved in various oil agents shown in Table 7 below, and the gel yield value (N / cm 2 ) was measured.
The results are shown in Table 7.
表7に示すように、植物油、炭化水素油、エステル油、シリコーン油など広範囲の油剤にN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドを用いて、十分にゲル化させることができることが判明した。なお、本発明の油性化粧料においては、0.5N/cm2以上のゲル降伏値となる油剤を用いた場合に、硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、しかも安定性や使用感に優れた油性化粧料基剤およびそれから調製される油性化粧料が得られることが判明した。 As shown in Table 7, it was found that N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide can be sufficiently gelled in a wide range of oils such as vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and silicone oils. In addition, in the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention, when an oil agent having a gel yield value of 0.5 N / cm 2 or more is used, it is easy to adjust hardness, viscosity, and gel strength, and also provides stability and usability. It has been found that excellent oily cosmetic bases and oily cosmetics prepared therefrom are obtained.
実施例5 ゲル化剤および(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーが外観に及ぼす影響の検討
ゲル化剤および(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーが油性化粧料基剤の外観に及ぼす影響を検討した。
下記の表8に示す処方にしたがって油性化粧料基剤を調製し、以下の方法によって吸光度を測定した。
調製した油性化粧料基剤を光路1cmのプラスチックセルに充填し、20℃にて1時間以上静置した。その試料を分光光度計 SHIMADZU UV-2450を用いて波長660nmの吸光度を測定し、次式によって透過度を算出した。
A=−log10T (式中、吸光度:A、透過度:T)
その結果を以下の表8に示す。
Example 5 Examination of effects of gelling agent and (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer on appearance The effects of gelling agent and (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer on the appearance of oily cosmetic base were examined. .
An oily cosmetic base was prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 8 below, and the absorbance was measured by the following method.
The prepared oily cosmetic base was filled in a plastic cell having a light path of 1 cm and allowed to stand at 20 ° C. for 1 hour or longer. The sample was measured for absorbance at a wavelength of 660 nm using a spectrophotometer SHIMADZU UV-2450, and the transmittance was calculated by the following equation.
A = −log 10 T (in the formula, absorbance: A, transmittance: T)
The results are shown in Table 8 below.
表8に示すように、N−アシル−L−グルタミン酸ジアルキルアミド(A)と(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーとを組み合わせて調製した油性化粧料基剤は、従来使用されていた油剤とゲル化剤から調製したゲルと比較して高い透明性を示した。したがって、このような油性化粧料基剤を用いて調製した油性化粧料は配合する顔料などの固有の色彩に影響が少なく、鮮やかな成分の色を呈することが示された。なお、本発明の油性化粧料基剤においては、透過度が90%以上となる場合に、それから調製される油性化粧料における顔料などの固有の色彩に影響が少なく、鮮やかな成分の色を呈することが判明した。 As shown in Table 8, the oily cosmetic base prepared by combining the N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (A) and the (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer is an oil agent and a gel that have been used conventionally. High transparency compared to the gel prepared from the agent. Therefore, it has been shown that oily cosmetics prepared using such an oily cosmetic base have a small effect on the inherent colors of pigments and the like, and exhibit vivid colors. In the oily cosmetic base of the present invention, when the transmittance is 90% or more, the inherent color of pigments and the like in the oily cosmetic prepared therefrom is less affected and exhibits a bright component color. It has been found.
実施例6 リップグロス Example 6 Lip Gloss
得られたリップグロスは、透明性が高く、50℃以下の環境下においてパール剤が沈まない、温度安定性に優れたものであった。
The obtained lip gloss had high transparency, and the pearl agent did not sink under an environment of 50 ° C. or less, and was excellent in temperature stability.
実施例7 リップバーム Example 7 Lip Balm
得られたリップバームは、温度経時安定性に優れ、保湿効果に優れたものであった。また、得られたリップバームは、(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーによる粘性の調整が容易であり、所望のテクスチャーに調整しやすいものであった。
The obtained lip balm was excellent in temperature aging stability and excellent in moisturizing effect. Further, the obtained lip balm was easy to adjust the viscosity with the (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer, and was easy to adjust to the desired texture.
実施例8 流し込みリップスティック Example 8 Pour-in lipstick
得られたリップスティックは保湿効果に優れたものであった。また、得られたリップスティックは、(エイコセン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマーによる粘性の調整が容易であり、所望のテクスチャーに調整しやすいものであった。
The obtained lipstick had an excellent moisturizing effect. The obtained lipstick was easy to adjust the viscosity with the (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer and easily adjusted to the desired texture.
実施例9 アイシャドウ Example 9 Eyeshadow
得られたアイシャドウは彩度が高く、美しい発色が可能であった。また、保湿効果に優れたものであった。
The obtained eye shadow had high saturation and beautiful color development was possible. Moreover, it was excellent in the moisturizing effect.
実施例10 チークカラー Example 10 Teak color
得られたチークは彩度が高く、美しい発色が可能であった。また、保湿効果に優れたものであった。
The obtained teak had high saturation and beautiful color development was possible. Moreover, it was excellent in the moisturizing effect.
実施例11 オイルクレンジング Example 11 Oil Cleansing
得られたオイルクレンジングは、手からこぼれ落ちない程度の粘性を有し、使用性に優れ、テクスチャーに優れたものであった。
The obtained oil cleansing had a viscosity that did not spill from the hand, was excellent in usability, and was excellent in texture.
本発明の油性化粧料基剤および油性化粧料は、リップスティック、リップクリームもしくはリップバーム、リップグロス、アイカラー、アイライナー、アイシャドウ、アイブロー、マスカラ、おしろい、フェイスパウダー、固形粉末状ファンデーション、油性ファンデーション、クリーム状ファンデーション、液体ファンデーション、チークカラー、コンシーラー、オイルクレンジング、マッサージオイルなどの化粧料として利用することができる。
本発明は、低粘度域から高粘度域にわたる硬さ・粘性・ゲル強度の調整が容易で、安定性や使用感に優れるこれらの油性化粧料基剤および油性化粧料に関するものである。
The oily cosmetic base and oily cosmetic of the present invention are lipstick, lip balm or lip balm, lip gloss, eye color, eyeliner, eye shadow, eyebrow, mascara, funny, face powder, solid powder foundation, oily It can be used as cosmetics such as foundation, creamy foundation, liquid foundation, teak color, concealer, oil cleansing, massage oil.
The present invention relates to these oily cosmetic bases and oily cosmetics that are easy to adjust the hardness, viscosity, and gel strength from the low viscosity range to the high viscosity range, and that are excellent in stability and usability.
Claims (9)
(B)2質量%の(A)を溶解して生成したゲルの20℃におけるゲル降伏値が0.5 N/cm2以上となる油剤、および
(C)(α−オレフィン/ビニルピロリドン)コポリマー
を含む油性化粧料基剤。 (A) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide,
(B) an oil agent in which a gel yield value at 20 ° C. of a gel formed by dissolving 2% by mass of (A) is 0.5 N / cm 2 or more, and (C) (α-olefin / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer Oily cosmetic base.
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