JP3262850B2 - Method for producing silk-spun bulky processed yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a bulky yarn having a silk-spun appearance and feeling.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is well known that a woven or knitted fabric using a yarn or a different shrinkage mixed fiber having a modified cross-sectional shape of a synthetic fiber has silk-like luster, drape, swelling and the like. In addition, a large number of bulky processed yarns having a silk-like feeling with a multifilament having characteristics of a spun yarn and a silk-like filament yarn have been proposed. A typical example is a Taslan yarn, which has a spun yarn-like appearance and texture due to loops and slacks present on the surface, but has poor unwinding properties from the twisted yarn package due to the entanglement of the loops and slacks. Not only is the knitting property inferior, but also the quality of the woven or knitted material is reduced.

In order to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks, a method of giving a loop or a sag within a range that does not impair the unwinding property and the knitting and weaving properties and giving a feeling of fluff or swelling after forming a fabric, for example, includes: Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-94636 discloses that a core-sheath type mixed fiber entangled yarn is formed at a low overfeed rate by using two kinds of yarns having different heat shrinkage rates, and the yarn is used to form a fabric. There has been proposed a method of imparting fluffiness and swelling by utilizing a difference in shrinkage due to heat. However,
The processed yarn obtained by this method is restricted by the structure of the fabric and cannot exhibit the differential shrinkage effect sufficiently, or even if the differential shrinkage effect appears, the shrinkage behavior during heat shrinkage differs.
The core yarn and the sheath yarn are separated into two layers at the boundary of the entangled portion, and the sheath yarn is entangled in a swell shape around the core yarn. There is a disadvantage that it is significantly reduced.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems, sufficiently develops a different shrinkage effect without impairing the unwinding property and knitting and weaving properties of the yarn, and gives the cloth a swelling and fluffiness. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a silk-spun bulky processed yarn capable of imparting a mild gloss and a natural surface feeling, as well as being able to impart a softness. .

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, obtained a low-shrink yarn having a difference in yarn length by subjecting a hetero-shrink mixed fiber to a heat treatment for bunching and relaxation. It has been found that if the yarn and the high shrinkage yarn are subjected to fluid treatment, swelling and fluffiness can be imparted, and a bulky processed yarn excellent in mild gloss and natural surface feeling can be obtained. The present invention has been reached.

That is, the present invention comprises a high shrinkable filament group and a low shrinkage filament group, wherein the hot water shrinkage of the yarn is 10% or more, and the difference in the hot water shrinkage between the two filaments is 5%. % Or less under the tension of 0.06 g / d or less under the tension of 0.06 g / d or less.
Subjected to reluctant focusing relaxation heat treatment hot water shrinkage is 3% or less of the yarn, then the yarn and hot water shrinkage percentage than that of the yarns are aligned draw and at least 3% higher multifilament yarns fluid ejection The present invention is directed to a method for producing a silk-spun bulky processed yarn, which is characterized by being processed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

It is an object of the present invention to maximize the effect of the different shrinkage of the different shrinkage mixed fiber in the yarn stage and the two stages after forming the fabric, and to make the fabric bulge due to the difference in yarn length. Is to be provided. Therefore, in the present invention,
At least one of the supplied yarns is made of a different shrinkage mixed fiber,
It is important to make the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn exhibit a difference in yarn length at the yarn stage, and to make it a low shrinkage yarn.
The different shrinkage mixed fiber must have a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more, and a difference in hot water shrinkage between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group of 5% or more. .

More specifically, the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group is 10% or more, and the difference between the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group and the hot water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament group is By using 5% or more of the different shrinkage mixed yarn, a difference in yarn length appears between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group in the post-concentration and relaxation heat treatment.
A bulge can be imparted to the yarn. If the difference between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group is less than 5%, the difference in yarn length is insufficient, and sufficient swelling cannot be imparted to the yarn. Also,
If the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group is less than 10%, it is difficult to make the difference in the hot water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament group to 5% or more, and the different shrinkage effect is reduced by half.

In the present invention, as a means for causing such a different shrinkage mixed fiber to exhibit a yarn length difference at the yarn stage, the present invention performs a bunching / relaxation heat treatment under a low tension. The bundle relaxation heat treatment referred to in the present invention is a treatment in which the yarn is subjected to a heat treatment in a relaxed state while being twisted and bundled with a twist having a twist coefficient of 5,000 to 20,000 . By applying an appropriate twist and bundle to the yarn, uniform heat is applied to the individual filaments, and a uniform shrinkage effect can be realized. Excessive twist bunching during the bunching-relaxation heat treatment is not preferred because it tends to impart crimp or change the cross-section of the filament, reducing the silky luster by half. Also, if the relaxation heat treatment is performed without twist twisting, the individual filaments are not given a uniform heat effect, causing uneven shrinkage and uneven length difference in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Moreover, the luster is a thread exhibiting a metallic-like shine.

As described above, in the present invention, it is important to perform appropriate twisting and bundling, and it is preferable to perform the treatment with a twisting number capable of imparting appropriate twisting and bundling to the yarn. If this moderate twist number is represented by a twist factor, 5000 to 20000 is a preferable range. Here, the twist coefficient is a numerical value calculated by the following equation. Twist coefficient = D ^1/2 × twist number (T / M) where D is the fineness (denier) of the supply yarn.

Although there is no particular limitation on an apparatus for performing such an appropriate twisting and focusing as long as the apparatus can perform twisting and focusing in a relaxed state, a swirl nozzle using a fluid is preferably used.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to perform the bunching-relaxation heat treatment in an over-feed state such that the yarn tension is as low as 0.06 g / d or less. By placing the yarn in such a state that it is easy to shrink under such low tension, the different shrinkage effect of the different shrinkage mixed fiber is maximized and the difference in yarn length is easily realized. When the above-mentioned yarn tension exceeds 0.06 g / d, the expression of the yarn length difference becomes insufficient.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to reduce the hot water shrinkage of the yarn obtained by performing the bunching / relaxation heat treatment to 3% or less. By making the hot water shrinkage less than 3%, the difference between the hot water shrinkage and other multifilament yarns to be mixed at the time of the subsequent fluid jetting process is increased, and the difference after the fabric is formed. Bulging can be amplified by promoting contraction.

In the present invention, in order to obtain a low shrinkage yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 3% or less by subjecting the different shrinkage mixed fiber to a bundle relaxation heat treatment, the relaxed state during the bundle relaxation heat treatment (overfeed of the yarn) Rate) and heat treatment temperature must be appropriately selected. In this case, the heat treatment temperature is preferably set to a high temperature within a range that does not cause fusion of the yarn, and the overfeed ratio is higher than the hot water shrinkage ratio of the low shrinkable filament group and the entire yarn is heated. It is preferable to set the overfeed rate as high as possible without sagging. With such a relaxed state, a low-shrink yarn having a difference in yarn length with a hot water shrinkage of 3% or less is obtained.

Next, in the present invention, a low-shrinkage yarn exhibiting a difference in yarn length by performing the bunching-relaxation heat treatment and another multifilament yarn are subjected to fluid jetting. In this case, it is necessary to use a hot water shrinkage rate of the other multifilament yarn which is 3% or more higher than the hot water shrinkage rate of the low-shrinkage yarn subjected to the bundle relaxation heat treatment.

By making the difference in the hot water shrinkage ratio between the low shrinkage yarn and the other multifilament yarns 3% or more, the heat treatment after forming the fabric allows the low shrinkage yarn and the other multifilament yarns to be interposed. The difference in yarn length due to the difference in differential shrinkage can be expressed, and the swelling of the fabric can be further amplified. However, if the hot water shrinkage of other multifilament yarns is too high, the width of the fabric becomes large and the hand becomes hard, and the hot water shrinkage ratio between the low shrinkage yarn and other multifilament yarns is increased. The difference is too large, and irritability due to the separation of the yarn is liable to occur. Therefore, in consideration of the quality and the feeling, it is desirable that the difference in the shrinkage ratio between the low-shrinkage yarn and the other multifilament yarns be 3 to 15%. If the other multifilament yarn is a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, the different shrinkage effect can be further enhanced.

The overfeed ratio of the yarn during the fluid jetting is not particularly limited, but the different shrinkage effect can be obtained by making the overfeed ratio of the low shrink yarn equal to or larger than that of other multifilament yarns. It is preferable from the point of increasing. The overfeed rate of the yarn is
What is necessary is just to select suitably under the conditions which can form the loop and sag within the range which does not impair unwinding property and knitting and weaving property. The lack of fluff caused by restricting loops and sagging can be sufficiently supplemented by the heat shrinkage effect after forming the fabric.

The yarn mixed by the fluid jet processing has loop fluff and entanglement throughout the yarn, and exhibits mild luster and a natural surface feeling due to voids between filaments and their complicated internal refraction. Becomes In addition, three or more types of blended yarns have substantially different yarn length differences due to the difference in yarn length due to the difference in yarn length of the low shrinkage yarn and the difference in shrinkage from other multifilament yarns. Becomes a mixed yarn, and becomes a bulky and excellent bulging yarn. Furthermore, since the yarn composed of three or more types of filaments having different yarn lengths has a special structure of three or more layers, the whole yarn does not separate into two layers and the quality is good without irritability. Fabric can be obtained.

The fluid jetting process in the present invention may be any of interlacing for interlacing yarns, and a Taslan process for forming interlacing and loop fluff. The fluid jetting nozzles to be used include interlace nozzles and Taslan nozzles. Can be.

The yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber such as polyester or polyamide. A bright yarn or a modified cross-section yarn capable of expressing silky luster is preferably used.

As described above, the silk spinning bulky processed yarn, which is the object of the present invention, can be obtained by a series of actions of the convergence relaxation heat treatment and the fluid injection processing. The silk-spun bulky yarn has the following features. In other words, the amount of loop fluff formed on the yarn surface is suppressed to a range that does not impair unwinding properties and knitting and weaving properties, improving high-order workability, and imparting a sufficient fluff feeling by heat shrinkage after forming the fabric. can do. Three or more filament groups with different yarn lengths are mixed and entangled. Due to the synergistic effect of the expression of the yarn length and the unique yarn morphology of the fluid treatment, the silk-like swelling, mild luster and natural luster A surface feeling can be imparted. With three or more different shrinkage and mixing effects (yarn length difference expression)
The whole yarn does not separate into two layers, and it is possible to obtain a high-quality cloth free from irritability.

Next, the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber A is supplied by the first feed roller 1 between the first feed roller 1 and the first delivery roller 4 in an overfeed state.
Next, the first feed roller 1 and the first delivery roller 4
Twisting and focusing are performed by a twisting and focusing device (fluid swirling nozzle) 3 provided therebetween, heat-set by a heater 2 and subjected to a bundle relaxation heat treatment, and then guided to a fluid processing area by a first delivery roller 4. . Subsequently, the fluid ejection nozzle 5 performs fluid ejection processing together with another multifilament yarn B supplied from the second feed roller 6, and then winds up the package 8 via the second delivery roller 7.

[0025]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 As a supply yarn, a high shrinkage filament group was 30d / 24f,
Polyester heterogeneous shrinkage with low shrinkage filaments composed of 35d / 24f, hot water shrinkage of yarn of 13%, hot water shrinkage difference between high shrinkage filaments and low shrinkage filaments of 8% Hot water shrinkage of 8% at 50d / 24f with mixed yarn A
Using the polyester multifilament yarn B of Example 1 and a fluid swirling nozzle as a twisting and bundling device and a Taslan nozzle as a fluid jetting nozzle, a silk-spun adjusted bulky yarn was manufactured under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process of FIG. . The hot water shrinkage ratio of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber A after the bundle relaxation heat treatment was 1.2%.
The difference in the hot water shrinkage rate shown in Table 1 is the difference between the average value of the hot water shrinkage rates of the high shrinkage filament group and the average value of the hot water shrinkage rates of the low shrinkage filament group.

[0027]

[Table 1]

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 Using the same supply yarn and nozzle as in Example 1, according to the process of FIG. 1, and under the conditions shown in Table 1, instead of the bundle relaxation heat treatment, a bundle tension heat treatment was performed to produce a bulky processed yarn. . The hot water shrinkage ratio of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber A after the bundle tension heat treatment was 5%.

Comparative Example 2 The hot water shrinkage rate of the different shrinkage mixed fiber A was 8%, and the hot water shrinkage rate difference was 3
%, Using the same supply yarns and nozzles as in Example 1 and according to the process shown in FIG. 1, bulky processed yarns were produced under the conditions shown in Table 1. The hot-water shrinkage of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber A after the bundle relaxation heat treatment was 1.5%.

The lofted yarns obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are woven into a plain weave using warp and weft yarns.
Dyeing finish processing was performed with a disperse dye.

The silk-spun bulky processed yarn obtained in Example 1 has no trouble in weaving, has good high-order workability, and the obtained fabric has a swelling and fluffiness and a mild luster. It had a natural surface appearance, silk-spun appearance and texture. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the yarn after the bundle relaxation heat treatment or the bundle tension heat treatment did not show a sufficient difference in yarn length, and even after the fabric was formed, the yarn lacked the swelling feeling and the fabric surface appeared irritated. , Quality and feeling were inferior.

[0032]

According to the present invention, the synergistic effect of the convergence relaxation heat treatment and the fluid jetting process provides excellent high-order workability, and the swelling and fluffiness can be amplified by the different shrinkage effect after forming the fabric. Besides, mild luster brought by thread form,
It is possible to produce a silk-spun bulky processed yarn having a natural surface feeling and a silk-spun appearance and feel.
Furthermore, by knitting and weaving the high-spun textured yarn obtained in the present invention, it is possible to obtain a good-quality fabric without irritation due to three or more types of mixed fiber structures having different yarn length differences.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process drawing showing one embodiment of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Reference Signs List A Different-shrinkage mixed fiber B Other multi-filament yarn 1 First feed roller 2 Heater 3 Fluid swirl nozzle 4 First delivery roller 5 Fluid ejection nozzle 6 Second feed roller 7 Second delivery roller 8 Package

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02J 1/00-1/22 D02G 1/10-3/48

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A filament comprising a group of high shrinkage filaments and a group of low shrinkage filaments, wherein the hot water shrinkage ratio of the yarn is 10% or more, and the difference in hot water shrinkage ratio between both filament groups is 5% or more. to differential shrinkage combined filament yarn, 0.06g / d under the following tension, twist
The bundle is subjected to a bunching / relaxation heat treatment while adding a twist having a coefficient of 5,000 to 20,000 to give a yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 3% or less.
A method for producing a silk-spun, high-bulk textured yarn, wherein the yarn and a multifilament yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 3% or more higher than the yarn are aligned and subjected to fluid jet processing.