JP3161477U - blouse - Google Patents

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide a blouse that is easy to wear and easy to move without impairing fashionability. Provide a blouse that can be prevented from collapsing even if the arms are raised and lowered, and that prevents the hem of the blouse from slipping off the skirt or slacks. A front sleeve 4a and a rear sleeve 4b are cut out into triangles at the locations under the sleeves, and triangular gusset cloths 6a and 6b are provided at the cut out portions, respectively. In the cloth, one side 61a, 61b is sewn to the sleeve body, the other side 62a, 62b is sewn together along the underline seam line, and the other side 63a, 63b is a gusset on the front sleeve side along the arm hole. The cloth 6a is sewn to the front body, and the gusset cloth 6b on the back sleeve side is sewn to the back body, and the sides 62a and 62b sewn together along the seam line of the sleeve under each triangular gusset cloth are biased respectively. The blouse is formed by the feature. [Selection] Figure 4

Description

  The present invention relates to an upper garment, and more particularly to a blouse.

  Blouses are often worn with their hems in skirts or slacks, and blouses are worn in skirts or slacks especially in workplaces where proper clothing is required.

  Also, since the blouse is generally made of non-stretchable fabric, it is made to be a large and thick silhouette away from the body without fitting to the body for easy movement.

  However, if you move your body while wearing a blouse, especially when you move your arms up and down, the hem will rise and your blouse will be loose just above the waist belt of your skirt or slacks. End up. Such a state is not preferable because it looks loose.

  Conventionally, in order to make it easy to perform front / rear and left / right movements of the arm in work clothes such as jumpers and jackets, it is possible to provide a gusset on the armpit of the jacket, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-28802 (Patent Document 1), Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2004-238743 (Patent Document 2), Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 9-310213 (Patent Document 3), and Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2006-2306 (Patent Document 4).

Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-28802 JP 2004-238743 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-310213 JP 2006-2306 A

  In the upper garment of Patent Document 1, an armpit gusset is inserted and sewn between the sleeve and the body over a length of 50% or more of the armhole. This armpit gusset is like a rugby ball that combines two crescent shapes consisting of a circular arc and a straight line, and you can see the armpit gusset not only when you raise your arm, but also when you are holding your arm down There is a problem that the appearance is bad. Moreover, in order to sew such an armpit gusset to the sleeve and the body, unlike the normal sewing procedure, the front body and the back body are sewn with the shoulder line and the side line, and the sleeve is sewn with the sleeve line. The sleeve is partially sewn to the front body and the back body, and then the edges of the armpit gusset are sewn to the sleeve and the body, respectively. There is a problem that such a process is troublesome and is difficult to sew and to finish beautifully.

  The upper garment of Patent Document 2 is an improvement of the upper garment of Patent Document 1, and an approximately elliptical armpit gusset is provided on the armpit at a length of less than 50% of the armhole. Since the length sewn on the sleeve and the body is only slightly shortened, there is a problem that the armpit gusset can be seen even if the arm is raised a little, and the appearance is still bad. In addition, similarly to Patent Document 1, there is a problem that the sewing process takes time and effort, and the sewing work is difficult and it is difficult to finish it cleanly.

  The clothes of Patent Document 3 are jumpers (work clothes), and a crescent-shaped armpit gusset is provided so as to surround the lower half of the armhole. Such armpit gussets can be seen at a glance and are not good looking. In addition, to sew this armpit gusset to the sleeve and body, the armline of the front body and the back body is sewn, the armpit gusset is sewn to the front body and the back body, and the shoulder line of the front body and back body Is sewn, the sleeve underline is sewn, and the sleeve is sewn together with the body and armpit gusset. However, such a sewing process has a problem that, unlike a normal sewing procedure, it takes time and effort, and the sewing work is difficult and it is difficult to finish it beautifully.

  The garment of Patent Document 4 is a jumper (work clothes), and is provided with a front armpit gusset and a rear armpit gusset that are different in the direction of expansion and contraction, but both gussets are visible from the outside and are not good looking. Further, the sewing process for sewing such gussets has a problem that, unlike a normal sewing procedure, it takes time and effort, and the sewing work is difficult and it is difficult to achieve a beautiful finish.

  An object of the present invention is to solve the problems found in the conventional blouse as described above, and to provide a blouse that is easy to wear and easy to move without impairing fashionability.

  In particular, it is an object of the present invention to provide a blouse in which the collapse of the blouse can be suppressed even when the arms are raised and lowered, and the hem of the blouse is prevented from sliding from the skirt or slacks.

  It is another object of the present invention to provide a blouse that can be manufactured in the same process as a normal blouse sewing process.

  In the present invention, the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side are cut into triangles at the armpits of the sleeves, respectively, and a triangular gusset cloth is provided at each of the cut out parts. Is sewn to the sleeve body, the other side is sewn together along the seam line under the sleeve, the other side is along the armhole, the gusset cloth on the front sleeve side is the front body, and the gusset cloth on the back sleeve side is The object has been achieved by a blouse characterized in that each side is sewn on the back body and the sides sewn together along the underline seam line of each triangular gusset cloth are biased.

  Note that the triangular gusseted cloth in the present invention does not indicate a geometrical triangle (all three sides are straight lines), but the gusseted cloth of the present invention is sewn and sewn. Since one side of the gusseted cloth has a gentle curve, it is a substantially triangular shape.

  According to the present invention, in the sleeve pattern, a triangle composed of a sleeve line, a sleeve attachment line, and a diagonal line connecting the sleeves is cut out at the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side, respectively, and each of the triangles fitted into the respective cutouts. The gusseted cloth pattern has a diagonal line having the same length as the diagonal line, and the lower sleeve line is drawn from the diagonal line at the same angle as the angle formed by the lower sleeve line and the diagonal line of the notch. The underline of the cloth is 1 mm to 20 mm longer than the length of the underline of the notch, and the length of the gusset cloth on the front sleeve side and the gusset cloth on the back sleeve side is the same, and the end of the diagonal line of the gusset cloth and the underline of the sleeve The curves connecting the ends of the sleeves are the cuffing lines, and in the pattern of the front body and the back body, the shape of the armholes in the front body and the back body is changed corresponding to the change in the length of the cuffing lines, and these Cut the fabric based on the pattern and sew It is possible to produce a blouse.

  In this case, it is preferable that the bottom seam line is continuous from the cuff through the gusset cloth to the side seam line, and is sewn from the cuff to the hem by one time sewing.

  The blouse of the present invention is provided with an inverted pleat (that is, a reverse pleat, a worship pleat, and a pleat with a pleated butt) at the center of the back, and the upper end of the inverted pleat is the center of the back. It is preferably located 5 to 8 cm below the upper end, and the length of the inverted pleats is preferably 18 to 23 cm.

  When providing inverted pleats, it is preferable to provide a yoke on the upper part of the back and form the inverted pleats from below the yoke.

  According to the present invention, the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side are cut out into triangles at the armpit portions of the sleeves, and the triangular gusset cloth is provided at each of the cutout portions. Since the gusset cloth cannot be seen at the level listed horizontally, the appearance looks the same as an ordinary blouse and does not impair fashionability.

  According to the present invention, one side (hereinafter referred to as the sleeve lower side of the gusseted fabric) that is sewn together along the lower sleeve seam line of each triangular gusseted fabric is biased. Since it can stretch, it is easy to raise and lower the arm.

  In particular, by changing the shape of the armhole so that the bottom edge of the gusset cloth biased sleeve is slightly longer than the length of the sleeve at the notch of the original sleeve, and the armhole shape is lowered slightly so that the lowermost point of the body armhole is lowered. Becomes even easier to move. And even if you raise your arm, the armpit of the body is hardly pulled up, so the hem of the blouse doesn't slide from the bottom (skirt or slacks).

  According to the present invention, the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side are notched into triangles at the armpits of the sleeves, and one step of sewing a triangular gusset cloth to each of the notched portions. Others can be performed in exactly the same manner as the normal sewing process. That is, unlike the case where a conventional gusset is provided, it is possible to finish the blouse neatly without requiring a hand gap or skill.

  Furthermore, according to the blouse of the present invention, since the inverted pleat is provided at the center of the back, it is easy to perform the movement of extending the arm forward or the movement of folding the arm. In particular, according to the present invention, the inverted pleat is positioned 5 to 8 cm below the upper end of the center of the back and the length of the inverted pleat is 18 to 23 cm. It opens according to the movement (extending the arm forward, etc.), and when it is in a stationary state, the folds are neatly placed in the original state, and the folds are not left open, resulting in a clean style.

  According to the blouse of the present invention, by providing two triangular gusset cloths under the sleeves and inverted pleats on the back, it is possible to make the sleeves and body like the conventional blouse without making them thicker. Because it is easy to move, you can scrape off unnecessary space to make a slim silhouette.

It is a front view of one Example of the blouse of this invention. It is a rear view of the blouse shown in FIG. It is a side view which shows the state which wears the blouse shown in FIG. 1 and raised the left arm. It is a top view which shows the pattern of the Example of the sleeve and gusset cloth in the blouse of this invention. It is a top view which shows the pattern of one Example of the back body in the blouse of this invention.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on the embodiments shown in the drawings.

  1 and 2 show an embodiment of the blouse 10 of the present invention, and the appearance is the same as that of an ordinary blouse. The blouse of the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is a front opening in which the front body 1 is divided into left and right, and is provided with a dart 1a. The back body 2 is also provided with a dart 2a, which is a slim silhouette.

  A yoke 3 is provided on the shoulder, and this yoke 3 is made of a single cloth and is sewn to the upper ends of the front body 1 and the back body 2. The sleeve 4 is made of a single cloth and is sewn to the body parts 1 and 2. An inverted pleat 2b is provided at the back center 2c of the back body 2 from the lower end of the yoke 3. Inverted pleat 2b is 18-23 cm in length and ends at a height near the underside of the scapula. Inverted pleats 2b have a pleat depth of 1.5cm on one side, and a fold mountain at the center of the back is hung with an edge stitch (decorative stitch at the folded end of the fabric) 2d. It is easy to return to the closed form.

  A cuff 4 c is attached to the tip of the sleeve 4. A collar 5 is sewn to the yoke 3 and the front body 1.

  As shown in FIG. 3, the front sleeve 4 a and the rear sleeve 4 b are cut out in a triangular shape at a position under the sleeve 4. Triangular gussets 6a and 6b are respectively provided at the notched portions. Each gusset cloth 6 a, 6 b is sewn to the front sleeve 4 a or the back sleeve 4 b, the other side is sewn together along the sleeve lower seam line 44, and the other side is sewn to the front sleeve along the arm hole 7. The side gusset 6a is sewn to the front body 1, and the back sleeve gusset 6b is sewn to the back body 2.

  In the pattern of the sleeve 4 shown in FIG. 4, reference numeral 41 denotes a sleeve mountain line, reference numeral 42 denotes a basic line for determining the height of the sleeve mountain, and reference numeral 43 denotes a sleeve attachment line. In FIG. 4, the right side of the sleeve mountain line 41 is the front sleeve 4a, and the left side is the rear sleeve 4b. Reference numeral 44a is a sleeve line on the front sleeve 4a side, and reference numeral 44b is a sleeve line on the rear sleeve 4b side. When the under-sleeve line 44a and the under-sleeve line 44b are sewn, the under-sleeve seam line 44 is obtained.

  In the sleeve pattern shown in FIG. 4, armpit portions where the sleeve attachment line 43 and the sleeve lower lines 44 a and 44 b intersect are obliquely cut out. The cuffing line 43 and the cuffs 44a and 44b in the notched portion are indicated by dotted lines. That is, on the front sleeve 4a and the rear sleeve 4b side, triangles each having a sleeve underline 44a or 44b indicated by a dotted line, a sleeve attaching line 43 indicated by a dotted line, and a diagonal line 45a or 45b connecting the two are cut out. .

  The gusset cloths 6a and 6b are provided at these notches. In the gusset cloth pattern shown in FIG. 4, the sides 61 a and 61 b of the gusset cloth 6 a and 6 b have the same length as the diagonal lines 45 a and 45 b of the sleeve 4. These sides 61a and 61b are called diagonal lines of gusseted cloth.

  The other sides 62a and 62b of the gussets 6a and 6b are the diagonal lines 61a and 61b of the gusseted cloth by forming the same angles α and α ′ as the angles α and α ′ formed by the sleeve underline and the diagonal lines at the notch portion of the sleeve. This is called the gusseted sleeve underline. The sleeve underlines 62a and 62b of the gusseted cloth may be the same as the length of the sleeve underline at the cutout portion of the sleeve 4, but are preferably 1 mm to 20 mm longer. Further, the sleeve line 62a of the gusset cloth 6a and the sleeve line 62b of the gusset cloth 6b have the same length.

  The remaining sides 63a and 63b of the gusset cloth 6a and 6b are sleeved lines that are continuous with the sleeved line 43 of the sleeve 4 and draw a gentle curve.

  FIG. 5 shows an example of the pattern on the back body. A dotted line indicates a conventional pattern and a solid line indicates the blouse pattern of the present invention. In the present invention, the curve of the armhole line 7b is not curved more than the curve of the original armhole line indicated by the dotted line, and the lowest point of the armhole line 7b (the lowest point of the armhole) is the original position indicated by the dotted line. 5-20mm lower than In the pattern of the front body, the shape of the armhole line is similarly changed so that the position of the lowermost point of the armhole line of the front body and the back body matches.

  When the length of the armhole changes in the front body 1 and the back body 2 (when it becomes longer than the original), similarly, the lengths of the sleeve attachment lines 63a and 63b of the gusset cloths 6a and 6b are also changed correspondingly. (Lengthen). If the sleeve lower lines 62a and 62b of the gusset cloth 6a and 6b are lengthened, the lengths of the sleeve attaching lines 63a and 63b of the gusset cloth 6a and 6b can be lengthened.

  Further, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 5, the length of the yoke 3 is made shorter than before, and it is 5-8 cm lower than the upper end of the center of the back. It was located on the top.

  When the fabric is cut based on the pattern shown in FIG. 3, the fabric direction (warp direction or weft direction) in the sleeve 4 body is on the fabric so that the sleeve mountain line 41 is the fabric direction (usually the warp direction) Y. Place the pattern and cut (Note that when cutting using a computer, instead of actually placing the pattern on the fabric and cutting it, enter the relationship between the fabric and the pattern on the computer and enter the pattern. And cut). On the other hand, the gusset cloths 6a and 6b are cut by arranging a pattern on the fabric so that the undersleeve lines 62a and 62b are biased so that the undersleeve lines 62a and 62b are easily stretched. In this case, the positive bias is not necessarily required, but an angle as close to the positive bias as possible is preferable. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the cloth direction Y of the gusset cloth 6 a, 6 b is parallel to the diagonal lines 61 a, 61 b and intersects the cloth direction Y of the sleeve body 4.

  When sewing the fabric cut based on the pattern, the diagonal line 61a of the gusset cloth 6a and the diagonal line 45a of the front sleeve 4a are sewn, and the diagonal line 61b of the gusset cloth 6b is connected to the diagonal line 45b of the rear sleeve 4b. Sew. The front body 1 and the back body 2 are sewn to the yoke 3 respectively. Before performing the side stitching of the front body 1 and the back body 2, the sleeve attachment line 43 of the sleeve 4 and the sleeve attachment lines 63a and 63b of the gusset cloths 6a and 6b are sewn to the neckline 7 of the body 1, 2, and 3. To do.

  Then, the lower sleeve 44a of the front sleeve 4a and the lower sleeve 44a of the rear sleeve 4b are sewn, and then the lower sleeve 62a of the gusset cloth 6a and the sleeve lower line 62b of the gusset cloth 6b are further stitched, and then the front body 1 and the rear Perform side stitching with body 2.

  When sewn in this way, the underline seam line 44 continues from the cuffs of the sleeve 4 (except for the cuffs) through the gusset cloths 6a and 6b to the side seam lines 12 of the body parts 1 and 2, from the cuffs to the hem. It can be sewn by one-time sewing.

  Sewing of the front body 1, the back body 2, the inverted pleats 2 b, the brazing, the cuffs and the like can be carried out in the same manner as in the prior art. Thereby, the blouse of the present invention is completed.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Front body 2 Rear body 3 Yoke 4 Sleeve 6a, 6b Machi cloth 61a, 61b Machi cloth diagonal line 62a, 62b Machi cloth sleeve lower line 63a, 63b Machi cloth sleeve attachment line 44 Sleeve lower seam line 44a, 44b Sleeve lower line

Claims (5)

  The front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side are cut out into triangles at the armpits of the sleeves, respectively, and triangular gusset cloths are provided at the cut out parts, and each triangle gusset cloth has one side on the sleeve body. The other side is sewn together along the bottom sleeve seam line, the other side is along the armhole, the gusset cloth on the front sleeve side is on the front body, and the gusset cloth on the back sleeve side is on the back body A blouse characterized in that the one side that is sewn and sewn together along the line of the under-sleeve seam of each triangular gusseted cloth is biased.   In the sleeve pattern, a triangle composed of an undersleeve line and a sleeved line and a diagonal line connecting both is cut out at the front sleeve side and the rear sleeve side, respectively, and the pattern of each gusset cloth fitted into the respective cutout is: The underline is drawn from the diagonal line having the same angle as the diagonal line and having the same angle as the angle between the underline and the diagonal line of the notch, and the underline of the gusset cloth is 1mm-20mm longer than the length of the notch sleeve line and the same length for the gusset cloth on the front sleeve side and the gusset cloth on the back sleeve side, and the curve connecting the end of the diagonal line of the gusset cloth and the end of the sleeve line Is a sleeve attachment line, and in the pattern of the front body and the back body, the shape of the armholes on the front body and the back body is changed in response to the change in the length of the sleeve attachment line, and the fabric is made based on these patterns. It was cut and sewn Blouse of claim 1, symptoms.   The blouse according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lower sleeve seam line is continuous from the cuff through the gusset cloth to the side seam line, and is sewn from the cuff to the hem by one time sewing.   Inverted pleats are provided at the center of the back, the upper end of the inverted pleats is located 5 to 8 cm below the upper end of the center of the back, and the length of the inverted pleats is 18 to 23 cm. The blouse according to any one of claims 1 to 3.   The blouse according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a yoke is provided at an upper portion of the back, and inverted pleats are formed from a lower side of the yoke.

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