JP2016125166A - Composite false twisted yarn and method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite false twisted yarn that has bulkiness, resilience, soft touch feeling, and dense feeling and excels in stretchability and processability, a method for producing the composite false twisted yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric using the composite false twisted yarn.SOLUTION: A composite false twisted yarn comprises: core yarns prepared by laminating polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyester in a side by side type; and sheath yarns comprising polyester, in which the core yarns and the sheath yarns are intermingled with one another. The composite false twisted yarn satisfies following characteristics. (1) boiling water shrinkage percentage is 40% or more. (2) elongation recovery ratio after 20% elongation is 80% or more. (3) latent bulkiness is 3 or more. (4) crimp development percentage (CR) is 5% or more and 25% or less.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention is a composite false twisted yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric that is excellent in swelling, soft feeling, resilience, denseness and stretchability and can be developed for clothing, and a method for producing the same, and further, the composite false twist processing The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using yarn.

  As a polyester processed yarn that realizes fabrics and knitted fabrics having stretchability, in Japanese Patent No. 2652918 (Patent Document 1), a wool fabric-like soft swell, waist, and tension, while giving a draping characteristic unique to polyester Composite crimped yarns have been proposed that give moderate stretchability to improve the wear resistance. However, in this method, a certain degree of stretchability is obtained by using a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn as one of two or more types of multifilament yarns. Hard and soft texture is not obtained. Further, since there are many yarn length differences, a strong twist is required and the bulkiness is poor.

  Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 6-316829 (Patent Document 2) proposes a composite yarn that is capable of producing a fabric that is rich in bulk, has a soft texture, and has excellent stretch properties and improved wearing feeling. . However, since the composite yarn using the conjugate filament is a mixed yarn, there is a problem that the crimp rate of the composite yarn is low, and sufficient stretchability and bulkiness cannot be obtained.

  Furthermore, JP-A-2000-328376 (Patent Document 3) discloses a composite false-twisted yarn in which polytrimethylene terephthalate is arranged as a core yarn, polytrimethylene terephthalate is arranged as a sheath yarn, and entangled and false twisted. Although it has been proposed, this processed yarn certainly has excellent stretch properties in the state without twisted yarn, but due to the difference in yarn length, generation of nep in higher-order processing and woven fabrics and knitted fabrics (hereinafter referred to as woven and knitted fabrics). ) Is too frustrating. Further, when the number of twisted yarns is increased, the crimp property of the core yarn is constrained by the sheath yarn, so that there is a problem that the stretchability is lowered.

Japanese Patent No. 2652918 JP-A-6-316829 JP 2000-328376 A

  The present invention provides a composite false twisted yarn having both bulkiness, resilience, and soft texture, and also having excellent stretch properties and process passability, a method for producing the same, and further, the composite false twisted yarn The object is to provide a woven or knitted fabric using the fabric.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, a composite temporary yarn comprising a core yarn in which polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyester are bonded in a side-by-side manner and a sheath yarn made of polyester, wherein the core yarn and the sheath yarn are entangled with each other and satisfy the following characteristics at the same time. It is a twisted yarn.
(1) Boiling water shrinkage rate is 40% or more (2) Elongation recovery rate at 20% elongation is 80% or more (3) Potential bulkiness is 3 or more (4) Crimp expression rate is 5 The method for producing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention described above is a core yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyester, and an undrawn yarn of a sheath yarn made of polyester at 70 ° C. or less. This is a method for producing a composite false twisted yarn, characterized in that the false false twist K is 1500 (T / m) or more and the false false twist is applied to provide entanglement.

  Moreover, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention uses the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention described above.

  According to the present invention, a composite false twisted yarn having both bulkiness, resilience and soft texture, and also having excellent stretch properties and process passability, a method for producing the same, and further, the composite false twist processing A woven or knitted fabric using yarn can be provided.

It is process schematic for demonstrating the manufacturing process of the composite false twisted yarn of this invention. In this invention, it is the schematic model figure which showed the concept about the measurement between the width | variety (maximum value) between the filaments of a composite false twisted yarn for measuring latent bulkiness. In this invention, it is a schematic model figure which showed the concept about the measurement of the width (maximum value): H2 between the filaments of the composite false twisted yarn after boiling water treatment and air drying for measuring latent bulkiness.

  The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention that achieves the above-described object has the following configuration.

  It is composed of at least two kinds of polyester filament yarns, and different polyester polymers are bonded in a side-by-side manner along the fiber length direction, and at least one of the polyester polymers is not highly oriented mainly comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate. It is a composite false twisted yarn composed of a core yarn made of drawn composite fiber filaments and a sheath yarn made of highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament having a higher elongation than the core yarn, and the core yarn and the sheath yarn are entangled with each other.

  The highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament of the core yarn has a polymer with different intrinsic viscosities attached to the side-by-side type in the fiber length direction, so that stress concentrates on the high viscosity side at the time of spinning and drawing. Distortion is different. Therefore, the high-viscosity side contracts due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the heat shrinkage difference in the heat treatment process of the fabric, and distortion occurs in the single fiber, resulting in a three-dimensional coil crimp. Moreover, the crimp extension property which has the outstanding stretch characteristic is obtained by using a polytrimethylene terephthalate for at least one of a polymer.

  The polytrimethylene terephthalate in the present invention is preferably a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component.

  The other polymer of the core yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a polymer having an intrinsic viscosity different from that of the above polytrimethylene terephthalate, but polyester is particularly preferable. Specific examples include polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the like. Among them, a polymer mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate is more preferable.

  Further, the cross-section of the core yarn is not limited to a round cross section as long as it is a side-by-side type, but it may have any shape such as a triangular to octagonal cross section or a flat shape.

  The polytrimethylene terephthalate contains a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond within a range not losing the effect of the present invention, preferably 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less. But it ’s okay. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, and sebacic acid, while glycol components include, for example, ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol. , Butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and the like, but are not limited thereto. Further, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments, and the like can be added as necessary.

  The intrinsic viscosity of the polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 0.5 or more and 1.2 or less. By setting it to 0.5 or more, stable spinning becomes possible and yarn breakage does not occur. Further, unevenness in fineness can be suppressed, and a yarn excellent in tensile strength and bending wear resistance can be obtained. In addition, when the intrinsic viscosity is 1.2 or less, stable spinning can be performed and the texture of the fibers can be made soft. More preferably, it is 0.8 or more and 1.0 or less.

  Side-by-side composite fibers develop crimps due to differences in their elastic recovery rates and shrinkage characteristics, and are distorted within a single fiber and take the form of a three-dimensional coil crimp.

  Further, the composite ratio of both components of the side-by-side type composite fiber constituting the core yarn of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably in the range of 8: 2 to 2: 8 by weight ratio. More preferably, it is 6: 4 to 4: 6. In cases other than this range, the components on the high shrinkage side or the low shrinkage side are reduced, and the coil crimp becomes rough, which is not preferable.

  The single yarn fineness of the core yarn is preferably 1.0 dtex or more and 10 dtex or less. By using a core yarn having a single yarn fineness in this range, it is possible to give an appropriate elasticity to the woven fabric. Preferably they are 1.5 dtex or more and 10 dtex or less, More preferably, they are 6 dtex or more and 10 dtex or less. If the total fineness is in the range of 20 to 350 dtex, it is preferable because it can provide a feeling of fineness and softness suitable for clothing. More preferably, the total fineness is 30 to 200 dtex.

  The sheath yarn of the polyester composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is a highly oriented, unoriented polyester multifilament with high elongation. As yarns made of polyester, filament yarns whose main component is polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyhexamethylene terephthalate, etc. can be employed. From the viewpoint of iron resistance, it is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate. Also, when polytrimethylene terephthalate is used for the sheath yarn, the surface touch of the fabric has a nylon-like soft texture, which is also preferable.

  This highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (sheath yarn) is aligned with the side-by-side highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament (core yarn) and simultaneously false twisted within a temperature range of 70 ° C. or less, thereby producing a polyester multifilament. The yarn becomes the core component (core yarn), and the highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament yarn becomes the sheath component (sheath yarn), thereby forming the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

  At this time, the core yarn and the sheath yarn can exhibit a core-sheath structure when the twist is further added to the composite false twisted yarn based on the difference in elongation of the respective yarns. What constitutes the portion is referred to as a core yarn, and what constitutes the sheath portion is referred to as a sheath yarn. In the present invention, in particular, if the difference is 3% or less, there is substantially no difference in yarn length. The sheath yarn may be a highly oriented unstretched yarn having a higher elongation than the core yarn to such an extent that a yarn length difference occurs between the core yarn and the sheath yarn after simultaneous false twisting.

  Further, the sheath yarn may be added with titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, a dyeing pigment, or the like, if necessary.

  The single yarn fineness of the sheath yarn is preferably 3 dtex or less in order to obtain a soft touch, and more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 dtex. Use of a yarn having a sheath and a thick portion in detail is preferable because the thick portion is dyed in dark dyeing and the detail in light dyeing, and a multicolored toned yarn can be obtained.

  Further, it is preferable that the sheath yarn B is a yarn having fine irregularities on the fiber surface by alkali weight reduction treatment, in addition to the suppression of reflected light due to the irregularities on the fiber surface, as well as improving the color developability and taking into account the dry texture.

  The fibers of the sheath yarn of the present invention may be uniform or thick in the length direction of the cross section of the single yarn, and the cross section is round, triangular, flat, hexagonal, L-shaped, T-shaped, W-shaped. Polygonal type such as Yaba type, Dogbone type, various types, hollow type, etc. can be arbitrarily selected.

  As a result, spontaneous stretchability is imparted between the filaments of the sheath yarn and in the length direction. And dimensional stability is provided, handling property becomes favorable, and the high-order workability to the formation process of woven or knitted fabric etc. becomes favorable.

  Further, in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, after the highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament and the side-by-side highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament are aligned, they are entangled before or after simultaneous false twisting. It is preferable. By this entanglement treatment, the unwinding property from the package and the twisting property in the higher processing are further improved for higher processing.

  In the composite processed yarn of the present invention, when the sheath yarn has spontaneous elongation, the yarn length difference is manifested again in the heat treatment applied in the subsequent dyeing step, and the sheath yarn when the woven or knitted fabric is formed into the core. Restraining with respect to the direction of elongation of the yarn is eased, and the stretchability is enhanced. In particular, when the polyester composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is subjected to additional twisting, the sheath yarn spontaneously stretches and becomes longer in the longitudinal direction than the core yarn, so that the restraint on the stretchability of the core yarn is eased. Thus, a significant difference appears.

  In addition, a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and bulging feeling can be obtained by giving the sheath yarn spontaneous elongation and expressing a yarn length difference.

  The composite false twisted yarn needs to have a boiling water shrinkage of 40% or more in order to give a dense feeling to the fabric. When the boiling water shrinkage is less than 40%, the shrinkage is insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a dense fabric. The boiling water shrinkage is preferably 65% or less. It is difficult to stably obtain a product of 65% or more, and by making it 65% or less, it is possible to suppress the occurrence of uneven shrinkage in the fabric due to excessive shrinkage. More preferably, it is 45% or more and 60% or less. The boiling water shrinkage is measured by the method described in the examples described later.

  Further, in order to obtain a fabric having a high level of soft feeling and repulsion, it is preferable to prevent the cloth from being coarsely cured by removing the fabric restraint with a dry heat intermediate set after scouring the fabric. For that purpose, it is preferable that the dry heat shrinkage rate of the highly shrinkable polyester false twisted yarn after boiling water shrinkage is 2% or less. That is, it is preferable that the yarn hardly shrinks when hot dry heat treatment is performed after the hot water shrinkage. More preferably, the dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as “dry heat shrinkage”) is −10% or more. It can be kept better. In consideration of dimensional stability, the dry heat shrinkage is more preferably −6% or more. In addition, the dry heat shrinkage rate after boiling water shrinkage | contraction is measured by the measuring method described in the Example mentioned later.

  This polyester composite false twisted yarn is a latent crimp type fiber, and crimping of the core yarn is manifested by performing heat treatment, boiling water treatment or dry heat treatment applied in the dyeing process. Further, the sheath yarn is elongated spontaneously and becomes longer than the core yarn, and the stretchability of the core yarn is enhanced by relaxing the constraint of the core yarn.

  In order to realize a woven or knitted fabric having stretch properties, the stretch recovery property of the fabric is important. The elongation recovery rate at 20% elongation of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 80% or more. If it is 80% or more, when forming a woven or knitted fabric, good shape stability and stretchability can be obtained, and it is good as a stretch material. Especially in sports clothing, the woven or knitted fabric sufficiently follows the stretch, It is possible to suppress the occurrence of cracks at the elbows and knees.

  Further, in order to obtain a fabric having stretch properties and a feeling of swelling and softness, it is effective to use a polyester composite false twisted yarn having latent bulkiness in a specific numerical range.

In the present invention, the latent bulkiness means a value defined by the following formula.
Potential bulkiness = H2 / H1
H1: In a state in which a load of 0.1 cN / dtex is applied to the fiber (the crimp of the core yarn is substantially completely stretched), sandwich between the preparations, select a range of 3 cm at an arbitrary location, and use a magnifying glass Take an enlarged photo at an appropriate magnification and measure the maximum filament width. This measurement is repeated 10 times and an average value is taken.
H2: Boiling water treatment was performed for 20 minutes with a 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load suspended on a fiber cassette, air-dried all day and night, then an enlarged photograph was taken with the same method and the same magnification as h1, and the filament width Measure the maximum value. This measurement is repeated 10 times and an average value is taken.

By hanging the same load as 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex corresponding to the restraining force in the fabric and heat-treating it, the bulkiness under the constraint of the fabric can be expressed by the potential bulk height of the fiber cassette. It was. In addition, latent bulkiness is measured by the measuring method described in the Example mentioned later.

  The latent bulkiness is 3 or more, preferably 6 or more, in order to produce a sufficient swell, softness and lightness while having stretchability. If the latent bulkiness is less than 3, the bulkiness and lightness will be poor.

  In addition, as a result of diligent research to solve the problem of fluff generation and shrinkage variation, which has been a hindrance to the development of high-shrinkage yarns in the past, and the problem of passing through the textile process, the present inventors have found that the yarn has a certain degree of It has been found that it is effective to give a crimp of 1 and a converged yarn form.

  That is, it is necessary that the crimp expression rate (CR), which is an index of crimp, is 5% or more and 25% or less. And it is preferable that the entanglement degree per 1 m (CF value) which is an index of entanglement is 10 or more.

  In order to prevent the occurrence of shrinkage variation, it is important to disperse the yarn spots by simultaneous false twist drawing on the highly oriented undrawn yarn and to absorb the yarn spots by crimping. If the crimp expression rate (CR) is 5% or more and 25% or less, the crimp can disperse the yarn spots, and at the same time, the crimp can provide gaps between the single filaments, thereby improving the friction resistance. I found out that

  When the crimping expression rate (CR) is less than 5%, shrinkage variation occurs, and further, after the yarn is shrunk, the filaments are arranged in a straight line and the friction fastness is deteriorated. On the other hand, when the crimp expression rate (CR) exceeds 25%, the crimp is too strong, and it becomes difficult to make the yarn converge. Furthermore, in consideration of mass productivity, it is necessary to twist and steam set for use in the warp of a woven fabric, and the high shrinkage characteristics are hindered. From these things, it is more preferable that a crimp expression rate (CR) is 7 or more because a swell and stretch properties can be imparted to the fabric. In addition, a crimp expression rate (CR) is measured by the measuring method described in the Example mentioned later.

  In addition, if the degree of entanglement per 1 m (CF value) is less than 10, the yarn is opened, and fluff and tarmi are likely to occur, which may result in increased yarn breakage in twisted yarns and woven fabrics. . Moreover, in order to use it for the warp of a textile fabric, it is necessary to twist and set in a steam, and the high shrinkage property is hindered. The CF value is preferably 80 or less. If the CF value exceeds 80, entanglement unevenness may become conspicuous in the fabric and should be avoided if possible. In addition, the entanglement degree per 1 m (CF value) is measured by the measuring method described in the Example mentioned later.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the composite false twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated. The method for producing a composite false twisted yarn of the present invention comprises a core yarn composed of a highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament having a higher elongation than the core yarn. The sheath yarn is stretched and false twisted simultaneously at 70 ° C. or less to impart entanglement.

  The highly oriented undrawn yarn to be used preferably has an elongation of 100% to 300%. That it is 100% or more is a state in which the stretched crystallization of the highly oriented undrawn yarn has not progressed. By using the highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 100% or more in the production method of the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage (%) of the false twisted yarn can be made 40% or more. In addition, the elongation of 300% or less means that the orientation of the non-crystalline part has progressed and there are nuclei that can become crystal parts. If there are nuclei that can become crystal parts, the crystal parts grow by high-temperature dry heat at 160 ° C., and spontaneous elongation occurs. By using this highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 300% or less in the production method of the present invention, the dry heat shrinkage of the false twisted yarn can be made 2% or less.

  In the method of false twisting while stretching, a commonly used stretching false twisting machine can be used sufficiently. Highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (sheath yarn) and side-by-side highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament (core yarn) are aligned and entangled as necessary, and then simultaneously in the range of 70 ° C or lower Perform false twisting. When the temperature exceeds 70 ° C., the crystallization of the yarn proceeds and the crimp is fixed, so that it is difficult to obtain the composite yarn of the present invention. In the production method of the present invention, it is important to set the false twisting temperature to 70 ° C. or less, and when false twisting is performed at a temperature 20 ° C. or more lower than Tg, it is possible to completely prevent thermal crystallization of the yarn. And higher shrinkage characteristics can be obtained, which is more preferable.

  This is because when simultaneous false twisting is performed at this temperature, the sheath yarn having high elongation is stretched while being wound around the core yarn having low elongation, and then untwisted. Further, the draw ratio at this time is preferably 1.6 times or less. When the draw ratio exceeds 1.6 times, the core yarn A having a low elongation becomes fluffy or yarn breakage tends to occur at the false twisted portion. More preferably, it is 1.2 times or less. Since the sheath yarn B is false twisted at a temperature of 70 ° C. or less, the crystallization hardly proceeds and the shrinkage rate remains high.

  Also, by drawing and twisting the fiber at a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 70 ° C. or less, thermal crystallization of the yarn can be prevented, and the boiling water shrinkage rate (%) is controlled to 40% or more. It becomes possible to do. In general, when the false twisting temperature is low, the processing tension is higher than that of a normal hot-drawn false twist, and a necking phenomenon is likely to occur between single fibers, and fluff and tarmi are likely to occur. As a result of intensive studies on this problem, the present inventors have found that it is effective to lower the false twist draw ratio and set the processed yarn elongation to be 25% or more. As a result, the processing tension was lowered, and the yarn was converged. As a result, the fluff and the tarmi disappeared, and the woven fabric could be developed into the warp.

  FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram showing a method for producing a polyester composite false twisted yarn according to the present invention. Side-by-side highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament (core yarn) (1) and highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (sheath yarn) ) (2) is pulled out from the bobbin, and entangled between the feed roller (3) and the feed roller (5) using the air entanglement nozzle (4). The entanglement process may be entangled between the stretching roller (9) and the relaxation roller (10) using an air entanglement nozzle. As the nozzle guide, an interlace nozzle or a compressed air nozzle typified by a Taslan nozzle can be used without particular limitation, but an interlace nozzle is preferable for obtaining a converged yarn form. In addition, the confounding pressure is set to 0.15 (MPa), so that the CF value can be 10 or more. On the other hand, if it is 0.7 (MPa) or more, fabric entanglement unevenness will be noticeable, which is not preferable.

  As for the entanglement overfeed, the CF value can be controlled to 10 or more by setting the entanglement overfeed rate to 0.5% or more. Further, if it is 5% or more, yarn blurring is likely to occur before the entangled nozzle, which is not preferable. Subsequently, it is heated with a heating medium (6) between the feed roller (5) and the stretching roller (9). When a false twisting heater is used, a known medium may be appropriately used for false twisting. Specific examples of the contact heating medium include a hot plate heated by electric heating or a circulating heating medium. Moreover, you may use the slit heater which is a non-contact-type heating medium.

  The running yarn heated while being twisted is then cooled by the cooling medium (7) and passes through a false twist rotor (8) for providing false twist. The false twist rotator (8) may be a spinner pin that directly gives twisted yarn, or may be a friction disk or belt nip that indirectly gives twisted yarn.

  Further, in order to obtain a crimp expression rate of 5% or more, it is important to set the false twist number K to 1,500 (T / m) or more. If the false twist number K is less than 1,500, crimp cannot be imparted to the yarn. In order to sufficiently impart the crimp of the yarn, the false twist number K is preferably 2000 or more. Further, when the false twist number K exceeds 4000, yarn breakage during false twist is likely to occur, which is not preferable.

  In addition, if the yarn processing speed is fast, the productivity becomes high, which is preferable. However, in consideration of the stable false twist property, 100 to 700 (m / min) is preferable.

  After passing through the stretching roller (9), it passes through the relaxing roller (10) and is finally wound up into a package (11).

Moreover, it is preferable to use the high shrinkable polyester false twist yarn of the present invention at a twist coefficient of 6000 to 40000 or less in order to obtain a sufficient swell feeling in the fabric. However,
Twist factor = T x (fineness) ^1/2
T: Number of twists per meter (turns / m)
Fineness: Decitex × 0.9
It is.

  In the present invention, the woven fabric and the knitted fabric are collectively referred to as “woven fabric”. When the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a woven fabric, there is no restriction on the structure and density, but a 1/3 twill or satin structure with many floats is preferable. Further, when the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is made into a knitted fabric, there is no restriction on the structure and density at all, but a tengu and smooth structure with less knitting constraint is preferable.

  Furthermore, when dyeing and finishing a woven or knitted fabric using the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, there is no restriction on the processing method and processing apparatus, but in order to avoid shrinkage wrinkles due to rapid shrinkage. Furthermore, it is preferable to carry out a softening process that can be relaxed and scoured in an expanded form. When the softener device has two baths, the first stage temperature is set to 60 to 75 ° C, and the second stage temperature is set to 90 to 98 ° C.

Moreover, since there exists a characteristic which expands spontaneously by high-temperature dry heat at the time of an intermediate set, the 5-15% elongation setting slightly higher than a normal textile is preferable.
By using the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention to make a woven or knitted fabric, various conventional problems that the high-shrinkage yarn could not be used alone for woven or knitted fabrics for clothing, especially woven fabrics for clothing, A fabric excellent in softness and rebound, and having excellent surface quality and friction characteristics can be formed.

  In addition, when the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is used for warp or weft, stretchability can be imparted to the woven fabric by the crimp-up effect caused by crimping and stretching after dry heat. If the stretch ratio in the direction used is 5% or more, a comfortable stretch property can be imparted to the fabric while having a high density.

  The fibers obtained by the present invention are suitably used for women's clothing such as blouses, suits, pants, dresses, coats, and sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

  Hereinafter, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention and the production method thereof will be described in detail with reference to examples. In addition, the physical property in an Example was calculated | required with the following method.

A. Boiling water shrinkage rate The sample was wound on a measuring instrument with a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex by winding the yarn 10 times, left standing for 10 minutes, and then loaded with a length of 0.09 cN / dtex. L) is measured. Then, this casserole is wrapped with gauze, hydrothermally treated at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes under no load, suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours, and then the casserole length (L1 under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex). ) Was measured and calculated by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Boiling water shrinkage (%) = (L−L1) / L × 100.

B. Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage Using the waste after measurement of boiling water shrinkage in the above section A, treated with dry heat at 160 ° C. for 15 minutes in a load-free state, and the case length under a load of 0.09 cN / dtex (L2) was measured, calculated by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Dry heat shrinkage (%) after boiling water shrinkage = (L1−L2) / L × 100.

C. Elongation recovery rate Elongation recovery rate Using a constant-speed extension type tensile tester with a self-recording device, with an initial load of 0.08826 cN per decitex, mounted at 20 cm grip intervals, with a tensile speed of 20 cm / min. It was stretched to 20% elongation and immediately deweighted at the same rate. Immediately after complete dewetting, it was stretched to the initial load, and the recovery elongation at this time was defined as the elongation recovery rate. The Young's modulus was measured using a constant speed extension type tensile tester according to the initial tensile resistance measurement described in JIS-L-1013, 8.10.

D. Potential bulkiness Potential bulkiness = H2 / H1
H1: In a state where a load of 0.1 cN / dtex is applied to the fiber (the crimp of the core yarn is substantially completely stretched), sandwich between the preparations and select a range of 3 cm at any point, and a magnifying glass (Keyence Using a microscope VH-5000 manufactured by the company, take an enlarged photograph at an appropriate magnification and measure the maximum value of the filament width (FIG. 2). This measurement is repeated 10 times and an average value is taken.

H2: Boiling water treatment was performed for 20 minutes in a state where a 1.8 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex load was suspended on a fiber cassette, air-dried all day and night, and then an enlarged photograph was taken with the same method and the same magnification as H1, and the filament width The maximum value is measured (FIG. 3). This measurement is repeated 10 times and an average value is taken.

E. Crimp expression rate (CR) (%)
The thread is wound 10 times on a measuring machine having a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex, and then hanged on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 24 hours. This casserole is wrapped in gauze, hydrothermally treated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes under no tension, and then suspended on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours. After leaving the cassette, one end of the cassette is hooked and the other end is subjected to initial load and measurement load. Initial load (g) at this time = 1.8 mg / dtex, measurement load (g) = 90 mg / dtex, water temperature = 20 ± 2 ° C. Measure the length of the inside of the left casket and let it be L. Further, the test piece is left for 2 minutes under the condition of only the initial load excluding the measurement load, and the length of the inside of the left case is measured to be L1. The expression rate of crimp under load was obtained by the following formula, this operation was repeated 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp expression rate (CR) (%) = {(L−L1) / L} × 100.

F. Degree of entanglement per meter (CF value)
The degree of entanglement is the number of entangled parts per meter under a tension of 0.1 g / d. A pin is inserted into the non-entangled part under a tension of 0.02 g / d, and 0.1 g / d over 1 m of yarn. The pin is moved up and down in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by the tension of d, and the distance moved with the portion moved without resistance as the unentangled portion is recorded, and the portion where the pin stops is taken as the entangled portion. This operation is repeated 5 times, and the degree of entanglement per meter is calculated from the average value (n = 5) of the distance of the unentangled part.

I. Texture evaluation, surface quality evaluation The feeling of denseness, swelling, softness, resilience, texture evaluation of stretchability, and uniformity of surface quality were evaluated by a five-step evaluation method by five experts.
○○: Excellent ○: Good Δ: Acceptable ×: Impossible

Examples 1-5
As the supply yarn, the core yarn is a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 84 dtex and a filament number of 24 filaments in which the polytrimethylene terephthalate and the polyethylene terephthalate are combined in a side-by-side type at a composite ratio (weight ratio) of 5: 5, As the sheath yarn, a highly oriented polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn having a higher elongation than the core yarn of 84 dtex and 36 filaments is used. Twist and interlace entanglement treatment (entanglement nozzle: QCII manufactured by Toray Precision Co., Ltd.) was performed.

  In Examples 1, 2, 4 and 5, friction false twisting using a urethane disk was performed, and in Example 3, pin false twisting was performed using a pin having a diameter of 2 mm. In Example 2, a contact type dowsum heater having a heater length of 1.5 m was used. In Example 4, the number of false twists was 1800 T / m, and in Example 5, the entanglement overfeed rate was 1.0% and the entanglement pressure was 0.2 MPa.

  Next, the false twisted yarn thus obtained was subjected to additional twisting with a twisting coefficient (K) = 5000 in the S direction using a double twister twisting machine manufactured by Murata Co., Ltd., and then 45 ° C. × 24 A dry heat twist set for hours was performed. A plain woven fabric was prepared using the obtained twisted yarn as a warp and a non-twisted yarn as a weft. Next, the resulting woven fabric was subjected to Softer Relax scouring treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying with a spread dryer and intermediate setting. Next, dyeing and finishing were performed according to a conventional method without reducing the alkali.

  The obtained woven fabric had a texture excellent in denseness, swelling, softness and rebound, and had stretch properties. The surface quality was also good. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1
As the supply yarn, highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 84 dtex, 24 filaments, and a sheath yarn, in which the core yarn is a side-by-side composite of polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate at a composite ratio (weight ratio) of 5: 5. Is a highly oriented unstretched polyethylene terephthalate with 84 dtex and a filament number of 36 filaments, which is higher in elongation than the core yarn, and false twisting and interlace entanglement treatment (entanglement nozzle: Toray) by the method described in Table 1 using a friction false twisting machine. Precision QCII) was carried out. Using the obtained false twisted yarn, fabric evaluation was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was poor in swell feeling, and lacked surface quality and stretchability.

Comparative Example 2
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The obtained woven fabric had a feeling of swelling, but lacked dense space and had poor surface quality.

Comparative Example 3
In the same manner as in Example 1, a false twisted yarn was prototyped under the conditions described in Table 1, and the fabric was evaluated. The obtained woven fabric was poor in swelling and soft feeling, and had poor resilience and surface quality.

1. Side-by-side highly oriented unstretched composite fiber filament (core yarn)
2. Highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (sheath yarn)
3. 3. Feed roller 4. Air entanglement nozzle 5. Feed roller 6. heating medium Cooling medium8. False twist rotor 9. Stretching roller 10. Relax roller11. Winding device

Claims (4)

A composite false twist consisting of a core yarn in which polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyester are bonded side-by-side and a sheath yarn made of polyester. The core yarn and the sheath yarn are entangled with each other and satisfy the following characteristics at the same time: Processed yarn.
(1) Boiling water shrinkage rate is 40% or more (2) Elongation recovery rate at 20% elongation is 80% or more (3) Potential bulkiness is 3 or more (4) Crimp expression rate (CR) Is 5% or more and 25% or less The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the composite false twist yarn further satisfies the following characteristics.
(5) Dry heat shrinkage after boiling water shrinkage is 2% or less (6) Entanglement degree per meter is 10 or more A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the undrawn yarn of the sheath yarn made of polyester are 70 ° C or less and the false twist number K is 1500 (T / M) A method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn, wherein the false false-twisting is carried out to give entanglement. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2.

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