JP2014122198A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A stable cosmetic composition, optionally a cleansing composition, in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, with a transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, emulsion appearance.
The present invention relates to (a) at least one oil; and (b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14, preferably a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, more preferably 2 A polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerol, more preferably 3 to 6 glycerol, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol; and (c) at least one associative polyurethane a nanoemulsion or microemulsion comprising: (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water, wherein (a) the amount of oil is in the range of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It relates to a cosmetic composition in the form. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can have, for example, a dispersed phase with a smaller diameter, so that the cosmetic composition is a nanoemulsion or with a stable, transparent or slightly translucent appearance. It can be in the form of a microemulsion.
[Selection figure] None

Description

  The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

  Microemulsions (oil-in-water, water-in-oil or co-continuous) have been developed as alternatives to cleansing oils over the last few years, which are highly valued for their excellent effects on foundation and water-resistant mascara. . The advantage of nanoemulsions or microemulsions is that they sometimes show better rinsing ability for the makeup removal effect, which is usually the same. In addition, the nanoemulsion or microemulsion can reduce its cost due to its low oil content.

US Pat. No. 5,463,633 U.S. Pat.No. 5411744 European Patent No. 173109 French Patent Application Publication No. 0009609 U.S. Pat.No. 4,874,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 US Patent No. 2,781,354

G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993) CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Volume 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53

  One object of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic composition, optionally a cleansing composition, in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, with a transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, emulsion aspect. It is.

  Furthermore, in some cases, nanoemulsions or microemulsions are difficult to have a high viscosity or consistency, especially under wet conditions. Even if a high viscosity or consistency is achieved, for example by using thickeners, this often makes it difficult for the emulsion to have a stable, transparent or slightly translucent appearance. . In addition, cosmetic properties such as cleansing ability or rinsing ability, and texture such as touch may be impaired.

  Another object of the present invention is high viscosity or consistency even under wet conditions, so that it is easy to handle even with wet hands, for example, while maintaining a stable, transparent or slightly translucent appearance. It is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion with good cosmetic properties such as cleansing ability or rinsing ability, and good texture such as good touch. is there.

The above object of the present invention is to
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol, preferably 4 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol One polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably having a derived polyglyceryl moiety;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) at least one polyol;
(e) achieved with a cosmetic composition for rinsing off in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion comprising (a) water, wherein the amount of oil is in the range of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition obtain.

  (a) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of plant or animal origin oils, synthetic oils and hydrocarbon oils. Preferably, the (a) oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at room temperature. (a) The oil may be preferably selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

  (a) The amount of oil may range from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  (b) The nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 may be a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7 to 14.0, preferably 8 to 13.5, more preferably 9 to 13.0.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 10 glycerol It is preferably selected from polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is capric acid PG2, lauric acid PG4, lauric acid PG5, oleic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, tricaprylic acid PG6, oleic acid PG10, dioleic acid PG10, isostearic acid PG10, lauric acid PG2, trilauric acid PG10, myristic Acid PG10, dimyristic acid PG10, stearic acid PG10, distearic acid PG10, myristic acid PG5, trimyristic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, stearic acid PG5, trioleic acid PG5, caprylic acid PG6 and tricaprylic acid PG6 Good.

  According to one embodiment, the raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters preferably having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol. Preferably contains at least 30% by weight of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerol.

  (b) The amount of the nonionic surfactant having HLB of 7 to 14 is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 25% by mass, more preferably 5 to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be a range.

  The mass ratio of (b) nonionic surfactant having HLB of 7 to 14 to (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5.

  (b) The nonionic surfactant having HLB of 7 to 14 may be an oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant.

  The amount of oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

  (c) Associative polyurethane is a copolymer containing at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block It is preferable.

  The amount of (c) associative polyurethane may be in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and / or at least one additional ionic surfactant.

  The polyol is preferably divalent and trivalent, more preferably divalent. Preferred polyols are butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and PEG8. The amount of all polyols is between 4% and 50% by weight, preferably between 6% and 40%, more preferably between 8% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W emulsion, wherein (a) the oil is in the form of droplets having a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably has a turbidimetric turbidity of less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU, more preferably less than 50 NTU.

  The invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, wherein the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: It is characterized by being applied to the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, or scalp.

  Furthermore, the present invention is for the body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membrane and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nail. And / or eyelash and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product, and / or as a cleaning product or in a cleaning product and / or makeup It also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention as a product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.

  As a result of intensive investigations, the inventors have found that emulsions are transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, by using a relatively small amount of nonionic surfactant relative to the amount of oil. It has been discovered that it is possible to provide stable cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsions or microemulsions with

  Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be highly viscous or highly viscous even under wet conditions, so that the composition has a stable, transparent or slightly translucent appearance. Easy to handle with wet hands, for example. Moreover, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have good cosmetic properties such as cleansing ability or rinsing ability, as well as good texture such as good touch.

Therefore, the present invention
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol, preferably 4 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol One polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably having a derived polyglyceryl moiety;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) at least one polyol;
A cosmetic composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion comprising (e) water and (a) the amount of oil in the range of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of high viscosity or high consistency, so that the composition can be, for example, in the form of a viscous gel. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can avoid or reduce dripping of the composition from the skin or hair, for example, when used by a user.

  Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of high viscosity or consistency under wet conditions, typically, for example, in a bathroom. Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is easy to handle even with wet hands, for example.

  Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have good cosmetic properties such as cleansing ability or rinsing ability, as well as good texture such as good touch, so that the composition It can preferably be used for cleansing products such as up-cleansing agents.

  Moreover, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a dispersed phase with a smaller diameter. Thus, the cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion with a transparent or slightly translucent appearance.

  Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.

[oil]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil. As used herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 ° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil, what is generally used in cosmetics can be used individually or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

  The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil; or a mixture thereof.

  (a) The oil preferably contains at least one hydrocarbon oil selected from ester oil, ether oil and alkane oil.

  Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil Oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of animal oils are, for example, squalene and squalane.

  Examples of synthetic oils are ester oils and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic, mono or liquid esters of polycarboxylic acids, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched A branched, C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic, monoalcohol or polyalcohol liquid ester, wherein the ester has a total of 10 or more carbon atoms.

  Preferably, in the monoalcohol ester, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester of the invention is derived is branched.

  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl myristates such as ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, etc. Octyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

  Examples of the ether oil include dicaprylyl ether.

  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristate (such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate), isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, neopentane Mention may be made of isodecyl acid and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or C _{4 to} C ₂₂ tricarboxylic acids and C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids, and non-sugar C _{4 to} C ₂₆ dihydroxy alcohols, Esters with trihydroxy alcohol, tetrahydroxy alcohol or pentahydroxy alcohol can also be used.

  Specific mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; Diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trioctate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; diheptane Neopentyl glycol acid; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

  Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carboxylate, octyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octane Octyldodecyl acid, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / 2-ethylhexyl caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate , Ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, oleic acid Isodecyl, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate) And glyceryl tris (caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from:
- linear or branched, cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes optionally. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffin, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and
Linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

  Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc .; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; And mixtures thereof.

  The (a) oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at room temperature.

  It is also preferred that the (a) oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

  Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and has one or more short chain hydrocarbons (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and palmitic acid). Ethyl hexyl), hydrocarbon oils having one or more short chain alkyl groups (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), and short chain alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.

  The amount of (a) oil in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the range of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably It may be in the range of 24 to 40% by weight.

[Nonionic surfactant with HLB of 7-14]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7-14. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

  The nonionic surfactant has an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of 7.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 9.0 to 13.0. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all nonionic surfactants.

  In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the amount of (b) the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 is not limited, and is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of 25% by weight, more preferably 3 to 20% by weight.

The (b) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 0.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 9.0 to 13.0 can be selected from:
(1) A surfactant which is a fluid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less, comprising polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol containing 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, 2 to 12 glycerol units at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol containing at least one fatty acid comprising at least one, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain Selected from the esters of
(2) fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixed ester, carboxylic acid and glycerol mixed ester,
(3) sugar fatty acid ester and sugar fatty alcohol ether,
(4) A surfactant which is solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, and is selected from glycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters and sorbitan oxyethylenated fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters,
(5) a block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), and
(6) Silicone surfactant.

(1) The surfactant that is a fluid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower may specifically be:
-Isoleate of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 400, sold under the name PEG 400 by Unichema
-Diglyceryl isostearate sold by Solvay,
-Glyceryl laurate containing two glycerol units, sold by Solvay
-Sorbitan oleate sold under the name Span 80 by ICI,
-Sorbitan isostearate sold under the name Nikkol SI 10R by Nikko Chemicals,
-Palm oil fatty acid α-butyl glucoside or capric acid α-butyl glucoside sold by Ulice.

  (2) Mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixed esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants, in particular, alkyl chains having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. You may choose from the group which consists of the mixed ester of the fatty acid or fatty alcohol which has, and the mixed ester of the alpha-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid which have glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The alkyl chain of the fatty acid or fatty alcohol derived from the mixed ester that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention may be linear or branched, and may be saturated or unsaturated. . They are in particular stearates, isostearates, linoleates, oleates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, isostearyl chains, stearyls It can be a chain, a linoleyl chain, an oleyl chain, a behenyl chain, a myristyl chain, a lauryl chain, a capryl chain, or a mixture thereof.

  Examples of mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the present invention include glycerol and a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linolenic acid and oleic acid sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 375. Mixed ester (CTFA name: citric acid / lactic acid / linolenic acid / glyceryl oleate); sold by Huls under the name Imwitor 780K, mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol and glycerol (CTFA name: succinic acid) Isostearyl diglyceryl acid); sold under the name Imwitor 370 by Huls, mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid and glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate stearate); Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30 by Danisco Lactic acid and a mixed ester of stearic acid and glycerol sold under the name (CTFA name: stearic acid milk) It is a glyceryl).

The fatty acid ester of sugar (3) that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant may be a solid preferably at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, specifically, C _{8 to} C ₂₂ fatty acid, sucrose, maltose, ester or ester mixture with Gurukurosu or fructose, and a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of ester or ester mixture of esters of methyl glucose.

The C _{8 to} C ₂₂ or C _{14 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids constituting the ester fat unit, which can be used in the present invention, contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. It contains a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl chain. The fatty units of the ester may in particular be selected from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. . Stearates are preferably used.

  Examples of esters or ester mixtures of fatty acids with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose are monostearin, such as the products sold by Croda under the names Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160. Acid sucrose, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof; an example of an ester or ester mixture of a fatty acid and methyl glucose is named Tego-care 450 by the company Goldschmidt Methyl glucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate sold by Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl-o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

The fatty alcohol ether of (3) sugar that can be used as the nonionic surfactant described above may be solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, specifically, C _{8 to} C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and glucose, and maltose , ethers or ether mixtures of sucrose or fructose, as well as the C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, may be selected from the group consisting of ethers or ether mixtures of methyl glucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols constituting the ether fat units that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the present invention are 8 to 22 carbon atoms or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. Saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains having the number of carbon atoms. The ether fat units may in particular be chosen from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, for example cetearyl units. .

  Examples of sugar fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, which are sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200 respectively. Cetostearyl glucoside, which is a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by Goldschmidt, under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and For example, there is arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.

  Further particularly used surfactants are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, and alkyl polyglucosides.

  (4) Fatty esters of glycerol that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants are solids at temperatures below 45 ° C., and in particular have 12 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 12 glycerol units It can be selected from the group consisting of esters composed of at least one acid containing a saturated linear alkyl chain. One or more of these fatty esters of glycerol can be used in the present invention.

  These esters may be chosen in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidic acid esters and palmitic acid esters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferred to use stearates and palmitates.

  Examples of surfactants that can be used in the present invention include decaglyceryl monostearate, decaglyceryl distearate, decaglyceryl tristearate, and decaglyceryl pentastearate (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate). , Polyglyceryl tristearate-10, polyglyceryl pentastearate-10), for example, Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and There is a 5-S product, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 stearate) such as a product sold by Nikko Chemicals under the name Nikkol DGMS can be mentioned.

(4) The fatty acid ester of sorbitan that can be used as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant is a solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less, C _{16 to} C ₂₂ fatty acid ester of sorbitan, and oxyethylenated C ₁₆ to C of sorbitan _It may be selected from the group consisting of ₂₂ fatty acid esters. They are composed of at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated ester generally contains 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, and preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

  These esters may be chosen in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidic acid esters and palmitic acid esters, and mixtures thereof. It is preferred to use stearates and palmitates.

  Examples of the above-mentioned nonionic surfactants that can be used in the present invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the name Span 60 by ICI, and Span 40 by ICI. Examples include sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 64) sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI.

  The (4) ethoxylated fatty ether that can be used as the nonionic surfactant and is a solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less preferably contains 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and 16 to 22 carbon atoms. An ether composed of at least one fatty alcohol chain. The fatty chain of the ether may in particular be selected from behen, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl units. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned include behenyl alcohol ethers containing 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units, such as products sold by Nikko Chemicals under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30. (CTFA names: behenez-5, behenez-10, behenez-20, behenez-30), and products sold under the name Brij 72 by ICI, stearyl alcohol ethers containing two ethylene oxide units ( CTFA name: Steareth-2).

  The (4) ethoxylated fatty ester that can be used as the nonionic surfactant and is solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less is at least 1 having 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and 16 to 22 carbon atoms. An ester composed of two fatty acid chains. In particular, the fatty chain in the ester may be selected from units of stearic acid ester, behenic acid ester, arachidic acid ester and palmitic acid ester, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned are esters of stearic acid containing 40 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), for example the product sold under the name Myrj 52 by ICI. And behenate esters containing 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as a product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

The block copolymer of (5) ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), which can be used as a surfactant in the nanoemulsion according to the present invention, is in particular represented by the formula (IV)
HO (C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H (IV)
[Wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z is in the range of 2 to 100 and y is in the range of 14 to 60]
More particularly, from the block copolymers of formula (IV), the HLB can be selected from the range of 8.0 to 14.0.

  Examples of (6) silicone surfactants that can be used according to the present invention include those disclosed in Patent Documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

  (6) Silicone surfactant as the nonionic surfactant is a compound of formula (I)

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are each independently a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group, or a group-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z- Represents OR ₄ and at least one of the groups R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl group,
R ₄ is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group,
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, except that A and B are not equal to 0 at the same time,
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30,
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5)
It is preferable that it is a compound of these.

  In a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and y is an integer in the range of 4 to 30.

  Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II)

(Wherein A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) that can be mentioned in the same way are those of formula (III)
H- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)
(Where A 'and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20)
It is this compound.

  The compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning. The compounds of DC5329, DC7439-146, and DC2-5695 have the formula (II) (where A is 22, B is 2, y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.

  The compound of Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) (wherein A ′ is 15 and y is 13).

(Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester)
The nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7 to 14. A single type of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

  It is preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycols, more preferably 3 to 6 glycols, even more preferably 5 or 6 glycols.

  The HLB value of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 7.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 9.0 to 13.0. When more than one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is used, its HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

  The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, lauric acid having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, It can be selected from monoesters, diesters and triesters of acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 10 glycerol It is preferably selected from polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is capric acid PG2, dicapric acid PG2, tricapric acid PG2, caprylic acid PG2, dicaprylic acid PG2, tricaprylic acid PG2, lauric acid PG2, dilauric acid PG2, trilauric acid PG2, myristic acid PG2, dimyristic acid PG2, Trimyristic acid PG2, stearic acid PG2, distearic acid PG2, tristearic acid PG2, isostearic acid PG2, diisostearic acid PG2, triisostearic acid PG2, oleic acid PG2, dioleic acid PG2, trioleic acid PG2, capric acid PG3, dicapric acid PG3, Tricapric acid PG3, Caprylic acid PG3, Dicaprylic acid PG3, Tricaprylic acid PG3, Lauric acid PG3, Dilauric acid PG3, Trilauric acid PG3, Myristic acid PG3, Dimyristic acid PG3, Trimyristic acid PG3, Stearic acid PG3, Distearic acid PG3, tristearic acid PG3, isostearic acid P G3, diisostearic acid PG3, triisostearic acid PG3, oleic acid PG3, dioleic acid PG3, trioleic acid PG3, capric acid PG4, dicapric acid PG4, tricapric acid PG4, caprylic acid PG4, dicaprylic acid PG4, tricaprylic acid PG4, lauric acid PG4, dilauric acid PG4, trilauric acid PG4, myristic acid PG4, dimyristic acid PG4, trimyristic acid PG4, stearic acid PG4, distearic acid PG4, tristearic acid PG4, isostearic acid PG4, diisostearic acid PG4, triisostearic acid PG4, Oleic acid PG4, dioleic acid PG4, trioleic acid PG4, capric acid PG5, dicapric acid PG5, tricapric acid PG5, caprylic acid PG5, dicaprylic acid PG5, tricaprylic acid PG5, lauric acid PG5, dilauric acid PG5, trilauric acid PG5, myristic Acid PG5, dimyristic acid PG5, trimyristic acid PG5, Phosphoric acid PG5, distearic acid PG5, tristearic acid PG5, isostearic acid PG5, diisostearic acid PG5, triisostearic acid PG5, oleic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, trioleic acid PG5, capric acid PG6, dicapric acid PG6, tricapric acid PG6 , Caprylic acid PG6, dicaprylic acid PG6, tricaprylic acid PG6, lauric acid PG6, dilauric acid PG6, trilauric acid PG6, myristic acid PG6, dimyristic acid PG6, trimyristic acid PG6, stearic acid PG6, distearic acid PG6, tristearic acid PG6, isostearic acid PG6, diisostearic acid PG6, triisostearic acid PG6, oleic acid PG6, dioleic acid PG6, trioleic acid PG6, capric acid PG10, dicapric acid PG10, tricapric acid PG10, caprylic acid PG10, dicaprylic acid PG10, tricaprylic acid PG10, lauric acid PG10, dilauric acid PG10, trilla Phosphoric acid PG10, myristic acid PG10, dimyristic acid PG10, trimyristic acid PG10, stearic acid PG10, distearic acid PG10, tristearic acid PG10, isostearic acid PG10, diisostearic acid PG10, triisostearic acid PG10, oleic acid PG10, dioleic acid It can be selected from the group consisting of PG10 and trioleic acid PG10.

  Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is capric acid PG2, lauric acid PG4, lauric acid PG5, oleic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, tricaprylic acid PG6, oleic acid PG10, dioleic acid PG10, isostearic acid PG10, lauric acid PG2, trilauric acid PG10, myristic Acid PG10, dimyristic acid PG10, stearic acid PG10, distearic acid PG10, myristic acid PG5, trimyristic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, stearic acid PG5, trioleic acid PG5, caprylic acid PG6 and tricaprylic acid PG6 preferable.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the following:
-Polyglyceryl monolaurate, containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl monooleate, containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,
-Polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units.

  In one embodiment, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 5 to 6 glycerin, which mixture is preferably And 30% by mass or more of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 to 6 glycerin.

  The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited and ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be.

(Oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant)
The nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 may be selected from oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactants. A single type of oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

  The oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 7.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 9.0 to 13.0. When two or more oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the mass average of the HLB values of all oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactants.

  The oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant according to the present invention may be selected from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.

  The mono- or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester has (poly) oxyalkylene moieties derived from 1 to 200 oxyalkylenes, preferably from 3 to 150 oxyalkylenes, more preferably from 4 to 120 oxyalkylenes. Is preferred.

  The (poly) oxyalkylene moiety may be derived from an alkylene glycol such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol. The (poly) oxyalkylene moiety may contain between 1 and 200, preferably between 2 and 150 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

  Mono- or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters are saturated or unsaturated acids, preferably containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mono and diesters of saturated acids such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid may be selected.

Examples of mono- or polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters may be mentioned, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₂ -C _30, preferably C ₆ -C _30, more preferably C ₈ and acids -C _30, there are esters of polyethylene glycol.

  Examples of mono- or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide and esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. There are adducts, especially those containing 8 to 120 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-8 to PEG-120 laurate (as CTFA name: PEG-8 to laurate PEG-120); myristic Acid PEG-8 to PEG-120 (CTFA name: PEG-8 myristate: PEG-120 myristic acid); PEG-8 palmitate to PEG-120 (CTFA name: PEG-8 palmitate to palmitic acid PEG-120); PEG-8 to PEG-120 stearate (as CTFA name: PEG-8 stearate to PEG-120 stearate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 isostearate (as CTFA name: isostearic acid) PEG-8 to isos PEG-120 acrylate; PEG-8 to PEG-120 (as CTFA name: PEG-8 from oleic acid PEG-120); PEG-8 to behenate PEG-120 (as CTFA name: Behenate PEG-8 to behenate PEG-120); and mixtures thereof.

  Other examples of mono- or polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include Steareth-100 available as Brij 700 from Uniqema Inc., Performathox 450, 480 and 490 available from New Phase Technologies, Inc. There is Palace alcohol available as Suitable examples of dialkyl substituted polymers include Glutamate DOE-120 and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate available as Glucamate DOE-120, both from Chemron Corporation. A suitable example of a trialkyl substituted polymer is PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate available as Glucamate LT from Chemron Corporation. A suitable example of a tetraalkyl-substituted polymer is PEG150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate available as Crothix from Croda Corporation.

  The polyglycol fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the group consisting of PEG-120 oleate, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of the oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant is not limited and ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. May be.

[Associative polyurethane]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane. A single type of associative polyurethane may be used, but two or more different types of associative polyurethanes may be used in combination.

  The associative polyurethane may be cationic or nonionic.

  Among the associative polyurethanes, mention may be made of associative polyurethane derivatives such as those obtained by polymerization: from about 20% to 70% by weight of carboxylic acid containing α, β-monoethylene unsaturation, About 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer containing α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, a nonionic monourethane that is a reaction product of a monohydroxylated surfactant and a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate About 0.5 to 60% by mass.

  Similar ones are described in detail in EP 173109 and in more detail in Example 3. More precisely, this polymer is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and is a 25% aqueous dispersion. This product is offered by AMERCHOL under the reference number VISCOPHOBE DB1000.

Also suitable are cationic associative polyurethanes, the family of which is described by the applicant in French patent application No. 0009609. More specifically, this is the general formula (A)
RX- (P) _n- [L- (Y) _m ] _r -L '-(P') _p -X'-R '(A)
(Wherein R and R ′ are the same or different and represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X ′ are the same or different and hold the hydrophobic group or not an amine function. Represents a group containing a group or otherwise represents a group L ''; L, L ′ and L ″ are the same or different and represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P ′ are Represents a group containing an amine function that is the same or different and retains or does not carry a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is between 1 and 100, preferably 1 to 50 , In particular an integer between 1 and 25; n, m and p are each independently between 0 and 1000; the molecule is at least one protonated or quaternized An amine functional group and at least one hydrophobic group)
Can be represented by

  In a very advantageous embodiment, the only hydrophobic groups of these polyurethanes are R and R ′ groups at both ends of the chain.

  According to a first preferred embodiment, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A) wherein R and R ′ independently represent a hydrophobic group and X and X ′ are each L ′. 'Represents a group, n and p are between 1 and 1000, and L, L', L '', P, P ', Y and m have the meanings given in formula (A)) Equivalent to.

  According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A), wherein R and R ′ independently represent a hydrophobic group, and X and X ′ are each L '' Represents a group, n and p are equal to 0, and L, L ′, L ″, Y and m have the meanings in formula (A) shown above).

  The fact that n and p are equal to 0 means that these polymers do not contain units derived from monomers containing amine functionalities incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation. In these polyurethanes, the protonated amine functionality is excessively generated by hydrolysis of the isocyanate functionality at the chain end, and then the alkyl of the primary amine functionality formed by an alkylating agent containing a hydrophobic group. A compound of the type RQ or R′Q (wherein R and R ′ are as defined above, Q represents a leaving group such as a halide group, sulfate group, etc.) It is.

  According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane has the formula (A), wherein R and R ′ independently represent both hydrophobic groups, and X and X ′ are independently Both represent a group containing a quaternary amine, n and p are equal to zero, and L, L ′, Y and m have the meanings given in formula (A)) .

  The number average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethane is usually between 400 and 500,000 g / mol, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 g / mol, ideally between 1000 and 300,000 g / mol.

  When X and / or X ′ represents a group containing a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X ′ is represented by the following formula:

(Where
R ₂ represents a linear or branched alkylene group or an arylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, and having one or more The carbon atom can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, P;
R ₁ and R ₃ are the same or different and represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group or alkenyl group, aryl group, and at least one of the carbon atoms is N, S, Can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from O, P;
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion)
One of the can be represented.

  The groups L, L 'and L' 'are represented by the formula:

(Where
Z represents -O-, -S- or NH-
R ₄ represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or not, or an arylene group, one or more Can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P)
Represents a group of

  The groups P and P ′ contain an amine function and have the following formula:

(Where
R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meaning as R ₂ as defined above, R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meaning as R ₁ and R ₃ as defined above,
R ₁₀ represents a linear or branched alkylene group, which is optionally unsaturated, which contains one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P Well,
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion)
At least one of the can be represented.

  With respect to the meaning of Y, the expression hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric, water-soluble group. Examples that may be mentioned are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol when no polymer is included. According to a preferred embodiment, examples of hydrophilic polymers that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide.

  The cationic associative polyurethane of the formula (A) is composed of diisocyanate and various compounds having a functional group containing labile hydrogen. The functional group containing labile hydrogen may be an alcohol functional group, a primary or secondary amine functional group, or a thiol functional group, which, after reaction with a diisocyanate functional group, respectively, Polyurethane, polyurea and polythiourea are produced. The term “polyurethane” in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethane, polyurea and polythiourea in the strict sense, and copolymers thereof.

  The first type of compound that initiates the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a compound containing at least one unit containing an amine function. The compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, i.e., according to a preferred embodiment, the compound comprises, for example, a hydroxyl function, a primary amine function, Contains two labile hydrogen atoms held by secondary amine functions or thiol functions. It is also possible to use a mixture of polyfunctional compounds and bifunctional compounds, where the proportion of polyfunctional compounds is low.

  As indicated above, the compound may contain more than one unit containing an amine function. This is a polymer that in that case retains repeating units containing an amine function.

This type of compound has the following formula: HZ- (P) _n -ZH or HZ- (P ') _p -ZH, where Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above. ).

  Examples of compounds containing an amine function are N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound that initiates the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula O = C = NR ₄ -N = C = O, wherein R ₄ is defined above.

  Examples that may be mentioned are methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, methylene cyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate, hexane diisocyanate.

  The third compound that initiates the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a hydrophobic compound that is intended to form the terminal hydrophobic group of the polymer of formula (A).

  This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, such as a hydroxyl functional group, a primary or secondary amine functional group, or a thiol functional group.

  As an example, the compound may be a fatty alcohol, for example, in detail stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. If the compound contains polymer chains, this may be, for example, hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene.

  The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (A) can also arise from a quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine of a compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. Therefore, the hydrophobic group is introduced by a quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is of the type RQ or R′Q (wherein R and R ′ are as defined above, Q represents a leaving group such as a halide group, sulfate group, etc.). A compound.

  The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound that initiates the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. This is preferably bifunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture, in which the proportion of polyfunctional compounds is low.

  Functional groups containing labile hydrogen are alcohols, primary or secondary amines, or thiol functional groups. The compound may be a polymer terminated at both ends of the chain by one of these functional groups containing labile hydrogen.

  Examples that may be mentioned are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol when no polymer is included.

  Examples of hydrophilic polymers that may be mentioned are, by way of example, polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or mixtures of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, in particular polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide.

  The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (A) is optional. Indeed, units containing quaternized or protonated amine functional groups may be sufficient for this type of polymer to provide the required solubility or water dispersibility in aqueous solutions. Although the presence of the hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such groups are still preferred.

  The associative polyurethane used in the present invention may also be nonionic, in particular a nonionic polyurethane-polyether. More particularly, the polymers may be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic bonds and / or in their chains, mostly hydrophilic sequences of polyoxyethylenated nature. It contains both a hydrophobic sequence which may be an aromatic bond.

  Preferably, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, The hydrocarbon chain can be a pendant chain or a chain at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible to envisage one or more pendant chains. In addition, the polymer can include hydrocarbon chains at one or both ends of the hydrophilic sequence.

  The polyether-polyurethane may be a polyblock, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequence may be at each end of each chain (eg: a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed at both ends and in the chain (eg a polyblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be in the form of graft units or in the form of stars.

  Associative polyurethanes can form a network structure in water, where the hydrophobic portion connects pseudo micelles as shown above.

  Thus, the associative polyurethane can enhance the viscosity or consistency of the composition according to the invention. Therefore, after application of the composition according to the present invention, the associative polyurethane can quickly restore the original elasticity of the composition.

  Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing fatty chains may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequences are polyoxyethylenated chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.

  Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes contain urethane bonds between hydrophilic sequences, which is the origin of this name.

  Expanded in its meaning, those whose hydrophilic sequence is linked to the hydrophobic sequence by other chemical bonds are also included in nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing hydrophobic chains.

  Examples of non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes containing hydrophobic chains that can be used in the present invention include Rheolate® 205 containing urea functional groups sold by the company RHEOX, other Rheolate® It is also possible to use trade marks) 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM 184®.

Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® containing C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chains and the product ELFACOS T212® containing C ₁₈ alkyl chains from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS, which has a urethane bond with a C ₂₀ alkyl chain, sold with a dry substance content of 20% in water can also be used.

  It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J provided by ROHM & HAAS.

  The polyether-polyurethanes described above that can be used are those described in a paper by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993). You can also choose from.

  Even more particularly, according to the invention, it comprises (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Preference is given to using polyether-polyurethanes which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds.

  These polyether-polyurethanes are in particular sold under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® by the company ROHM & HAAS [ACULYN 46® is 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide. A polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 440 Is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%). % By mass].

  According to the invention, the associative polyurethane is preferably selected from the steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by the company Rheox.

  (c) The amount of the associative polyurethane is not limited and may be in the range of 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.4 to 3% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. .

(Polyol)
The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

  The term “polyol” as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include monosaccharides or derivatives thereof. Examples of monosaccharide derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of monosaccharides, and one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof are alkyl groups. Monosaccharide or sugar alcohol substituted with at least one substituent such as hydroxyalkyl group, alkoxy group, acyl group or carbonyl group.

Polyols, at least two hydroxy groups, preferably C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol comprising from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, preferably may be a C _{2 to 9} polyol.

  The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

  The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycol and its derivatives. The polyol is a group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,5-pentanediol. May be selected.

  The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, for example from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[water]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains water.

  The amount of water is not limited, and may be 10 to 80% by mass, preferably 20 to 75% by mass, more preferably 30 to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[Additional surfactant]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one nonionic additional surfactant different from the above (b) and / or at least one ionic additional surfactant. A single type of additional surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of additional surfactant may be used in combination. The ionic surfactant can be selected from a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

(Nonionic additional surfactant)
The nonionic additive surfactant can be selected from the following if its HLB value is less than 7.0 or greater than 14.0:
(1) Surfactant that is fluid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or less, comprising polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol containing 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, 2 to 10 glycerol units at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol containing at least one fatty acid comprising at least one, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain A surfactant selected from the esters of
(2) fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixed ester, carboxylic acid and glycerol mixed ester,
(3) sugar fatty acid ester and sugar fatty alcohol ether,
(4) A surfactant which is solid at a temperature of 45 ° C. or lower, and is selected from glycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters and sorbitan oxyethylenated fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters,
(5) a block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), and
(6) Silicone surfactant.

  The details of (1) to (6) above are the same as those described above.

  The nonionic additive surfactant can be selected from oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactants if the HLB value is less than 7.0 or greater than 14.0.

  Details of the oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant are the same as those described above.

(Cationic surfactant)
The cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Good.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
Formula (I)

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen. It is selected from linear and branched aliphatic group, the aliphatic groups, for example an alkyl group, alkoxy group, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkylamido ( C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate and hydroxyalkyl groups; and may be selected from aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; X ⁻ is a halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, selected from (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfonate ion or an alkyl aryl sulfonate ion)
Have
The quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example the formula (II)

(Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen groups, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
X ^- is selected from halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, alkyl sulfate ion, alkyl sulfonate ion and alkyl aryl sulfonate ion)
Have In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixed group selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, and R ₇ is methyl. And R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and quaternium-83 sold by Witco under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. (CTFA 1997).
Formula (III)

(Where
R ₉ is selected from aliphatic groups containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from a hydrogen or alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ ;
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from a hydrogen group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an alkyl group. ,
X ^- is selected from halide ion, acetate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, ethylsulfonate ion and methylsulfonate ion)
Diquaternary ammonium salt. Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts are FINNETT CT-P (Quotanium-89) from FINETEX or FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75) from FINETEX.
A quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester function, for example of formula (IV)

(Where
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R ₂₃ is a group,

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is a group,

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex organic and inorganic anions, where the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, provided that when x is 0, R ₂₃ represents R ₂₇ (However, when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ )
Have R ₂₂ may be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from straight chain alkyl groups. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, and a dihydroxypropyl group, for example, a methyl group and an ethyl group. In one embodiment, the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇ , it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. You may go out. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R _24, R ₂₆ and R _28, which may be the same or different and linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C ₁₁ ~ Selected from C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl groups and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ may be selected from halide ions such as chloride ion, bromide ion and iodide ion; and may be selected from C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl sulfate ions such as methyl sulfate ion. Good. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate and anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups Is an other non-limiting example of an anion that may be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride ion and methylsulfate ion.

In another embodiment, the formula (IV)
(Wherein R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group;
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
R ₂₃ is a group,

, A methyl group, an ethyl group, and a C _{14 to} C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is a group,

And hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, straight chain and branched, selected from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated and unsaturated)
The ammonium salt of can be used.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl. Sulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methylsulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride and methylsulfuric acid There are salts, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products are, for example, optionally directly oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine directly to fatty acids or to mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. It can be obtained by esterification or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, such as alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; Methyl acid; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

  Such compounds are, for example, named Dehyquart (registered trademark) by Cognis, Stepanquat (registered trademark) by Stepan, Noxamium (registered trademark) by Ceca, and Rewoquat (Rewoquat (registered trademark) by Rewo-Goldschmidt. (Registered trademark) WE 18 ”.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include the ammonium salts described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180 containing at least one ester functional group. Can be mentioned.

  Among the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the invention, the compounds corresponding to formula (I), such as, for example, tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyl, are not limited thereto. Trimethylammonium chloride (wherein the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium And stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the company Van Dyk.

  According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition of the present invention is selected from quaternary ammonium salts, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium- 83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(Anionic surfactant)
The anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants include in particular anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins or silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers. It may be selected from sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, alkylsulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.

1) Anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins are protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups, said hydrophobic groups being naturally present in the protein, or of the protein and / or Protein hydrolysates can be added by reaction with hydrophobic compounds. The protein is of vegetable origin or silk and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may be made in more detail of apple protein hydrolysates, wheat protein hydrolysates, soy protein hydrolysates or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Anionic derivatives of vegetable origin proteins and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium salt, a potassium salt and / or an ammonium salt.

  Therefore, examples of protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups are silk proteins whose proteins have been modified with lauric acid, such as products sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken Fine Chemicals. Protein hydrolyzate salt; potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acid Potassium) and sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic ( A protein hydrolyzate salt, such as CTFA name: Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acid Sodium), which is a wheat protein whose protein has been modified with lauric acid; a sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: Lauroyl oat amino acid sodium) and other proteins with 10 to 22 charcoal Protein hydrolyzate salts, which are oat proteins containing an alkyl chain with atoms, and especially protein hydrolyzate salts, wherein the protein is an oat protein modified with lauric acid; or by Proteol APL by Seppic There is a salt of an apple protein hydrolyzate containing an alkyl chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (CTFA name: cocoyl apple amino acid sodium) sold under the name (30% aqueous / glycol solution). Mention may also be made of Lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine), neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate, sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 by CTPIC (CTFA name: sodium cocoylamino acid). , Alanine).

2) As phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, lauryl monophosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, Crafol AP-31 (by Cognis) Potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate as a mixture of monoesters and diesters (mainly diesters) sold under the name (registered trademark), phosphoric acid sold under the name Crafol AP-20 (registered trademark) by Cognis Mixture of octyl monoester and diester, ethoxylated (7 mol EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester sold by Condea under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® a mixture of the order by the company Uniqema number Arlatone MAP 230K-40 (R) and Arlatone MAP 230T-60 sold as (R), mono (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃₎ alkyl phosphate Lithium salt or triethanolamine salt, potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99 / 09 (registered trademark) by Rhodia Chimie, and sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema Monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as potassium cetyl phosphate.

3) Examples of carboxylate salts include the following:
An amide ether carboxylate (AEC), for example sodium lauryl amide ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals,
-Polyoxyethylenated carboxylates, e.g. sodium oxyethylenated (6 EO) lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C ₁₂ ~ sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals _{C 14 ~C 16), Biologia E} Tecnologia by the company Olivem 400 (registered trademark) sold under the name, polyoxyethylenated fatty acids and carboxymethylated fatty olive oil origin, or by Nikko Chemicals Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX Oxyethylenated (6 EO) tridecyl ether sodium carboxylate sold under the name (registered trademark), and
-Salts of fatty acids with C ₆ to C ₂₂ alkyl chains neutralized with organic or inorganic bases (soap), such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and Arginine.

4) Specific examples of amino acid derivatives of alkali salts of amino acids include the following:
-Sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or Oramix L30® by SEPPIC, Nikkol Sarcosinate MN (by Nikko Chemicals) (Registered trademark) sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals,
-Alanate salts, such as N-lauroyl-N-methylamide pro, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals or Alanone ALE (registered trademark) by Kawaken Fine Chemicals Sodium pinate or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine sold under the name Alanone ALTA (registered trademark) by Kawaken Fine Chemicals,
-Glutamate, for example, monoethanol coil triethanolamine sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12 (registered trademark) by Ajinomoto Co., Inc., sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 (registered trademark) by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. Lauroylglutamate triethanolamine,
An aspartate, for example a mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine and N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi Chemical;
A glycine derivative (glycinate), e.g. sodium N-cocoylglycinate sold under the name Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
-Citrate salts, such as the citric acid monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohol sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt,
-Galacturonic acid salts such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate sold by Soliance.

5) Sulfosuccinates can be mentioned, for example, by oxyethylation (3 EO) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special (registered trademark) and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4 (registered trademark) by Witco. Lauryl (70/30 C ₁₂ / C ₁₄ ) alcohol monosulfosuccinate, a hemisulfosuccinate of C _{12 to} C ₁₄ alcohol sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz Disodium salt, oxyethylenated (2EO) disodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo Oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco Disodium salt of Tomonosu Le phosphate succinate or there is Rewoderm S 1333 (R) ricinoleic acid sold under the name monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate by Witco Corporation. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinate may be utilized, for example disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.

6) Alkyl sulfates can include, for example, lauryl sulfate triethanolamine, such as a product sold under the name Empicol TL40 FL by Huntsman or a product sold under the name Texapon T42 by Cognis. (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulfate) and these products are 40% aqueous solutions. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate) such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is a 30% aqueous solution.

7) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulfate) such as those sold by Cognis under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP, or Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.

8) Examples of sulfonates include α-olefin sulfonates, which are named Bio-Terge AS-40 (registered trademark) by Stepan, Witconate AOS Protege (registered trademark) and Sulframine by Witco. under the name AOS PH 12 (TM), Bio-Terge AS-40 CG ( registered trademark) sold under the name α- olefin sodium sulfonate by _{Stepan (C 14 ~C 16),} Hostapur SAS 30 by Clariant Secondary sodium olefinsulphonate sold under the name (registered trademark); or the names Manrosol SXS30 (registered trademark), Manrosol SXS40 (registered trademark) and Manrosol SXS93 (registered trademark) by Manro It is sodium xylene sulfonate sold in Japan.

9) What can be mentioned as isetinate is acyl isethinate, for example sodium cocoyl isethionate such as the product sold by Jordan under the name Jordapon CI P®.

10) The taurate can be listed as palm salt oil methyl taurate sodium salt sold by Clariant under the name Hostapon CT Pate®; N-acyl N-methyl taurate N-cocoyl-N-methyl taurate sodium sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by, for example, Clariant, or Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikko Chemicals, Alternatively, it is sodium palmitoylmethyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT (registered trademark) by Nikko Chemicals.

11) The anionic derivative of the alkyl polyglucoside can in particular be a glycerol ether obtained from citrate, tartrate, sulfosuccinate, carboxylate and alkylpolyglucoside. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) tartrate sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, Essai 512 MP® by Seppic. The disodium salt of cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) sulfosuccinate sold under the name or the cocoyl polyglycoside (1,4) citrate sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia It is a sodium salt of an acid ester.

  The amino acid derivative is preferably an acyl glycine derivative or a glycine derivative, particularly an acyl glycine salt.

  The acyl glycine derivative or glycine derivative can be selected from an acyl glycine salt (or acyl glycinate) or a glycine salt (or glycinate), and in particular, can be selected from the following:

i) Formula (I)
R-HNCH ₂ COOX (I)
(Where
R represents an acyl group R′C═O, wherein R ′ is preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, Better represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms,
-X represents a cation selected from, for example, an alkali metal ion (Na, Li, K, etc., preferably Na or K), an alkaline earth metal ion (Mg, an ammonium group, and a mixture thereof) )
Acyl glycinate.

  The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the groups lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably R is a cocoyl group.

ii) Formula (II)

(Where
R ₁ is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still 16 to 20 carbon atoms Represents a hydrocarbon chain; R ₁ is advantageously selected from lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from stearyl, oleyl groups;
-R ₂ groups are identical or different and represent an R''OH group, where R '' is an alkyl group containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms)
Of glycinate.

  Examples of the compound of formula (I) include compounds having an INCI name of sodium cocoylglycinate, such as Amilite GCS-12 sold by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. and having an INCI name of potassium cocoylglycinate There are compounds such as Amilite GCK-12 manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

  As the compound of the formula (II), those of dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or those of dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate can be used.

(Amphoteric surfactant)
The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic ionic surfactants are, for example (non-limiting list), aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, of which Aliphatic groups are linear or branched chains that contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms and are solubilized in at least one water (e.g., carboxylate ions, sulfonate ions, sulfate ions). , Phosphate ions or phosphonate ions).

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of products sold under the name Miranol, which are described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982. Classified by the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), the structures of each are as follows:
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -),
(Where
R ₁ represents an alkyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group)
as well as
R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C).
(Where
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C is - represents (CH _{2) z-} Y ', where z = 1 or 2,
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH group, —CH ₂ —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′ or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ represents —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′ or CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group,
Z ′ represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion such as a sodium ion, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
R ₁ 'is an acid R ₁ present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil' alkyl group -COOH, for example C _7, C _9, C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, C ₁₇ alkyl group and isotypes thereof Or represents an unsaturated C ₁₇ group).

Amphoteric surfactants, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Arukiruanho monoacetate salt, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Arukiruanho diacetate, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylamphoacetates mono propionate, and, (C Preferably it is selected from ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamphodipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, in disodium cocoamphophonate, disodium lauroamphofoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , Caprylamfodipropionic acid disodium, caprylamphodipropionic acid disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M condensate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

  Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant may be betaine.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant, preferably, alkyl betaines, alkyl amido alkyl betaines, sulfobetaine, from phosphobetaines and alkyl amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, in particular, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ ~ C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylsulfobetaine. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamides (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl sulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines. It is.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include, alone or as a mixture, in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocoamidopropylbetaine, Compounds classified under the names palmitoamidopropyl betaine, stearamide propyl betaine, cocoamidoethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultain, oleamido propyl hydroxy sultain, coco hydroxy sultain, lauryl hydroxy sultain and coco sultain There is.

  Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.

  The amount of additional surfactant may be from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.10% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

[Other materials]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain other effective amounts of materials that have been known elsewhere in whitening compositions or coloring compositions, for example, various common adjuvants, EDTA And sequestering agents such as etidronic acid, UV blockers, silicones other than those mentioned above (such as those having an amine group), preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, such as panthenol, opacifying agents, perfumes, Plant extracts, cationic polymers and the like.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Therefore, the organic solvent is preferably miscible with water. Mention may be made, as organic solvent, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; is and mixtures thereof; similar products.

  The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount in the range of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Manufacturing and properties]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be produced by mixing the above essential and optional materials according to the methods of the prior art. As a prior art method, mixing (high energy process) using a high-pressure homogenizer can be mentioned. As an alternative, the cosmetic composition can be produced by a low energy process such as phase inversion temperature method (PIT), phase inversion concentration method (PIC), automatic emulsification.

  The mass ratio of (b) nonionic surfactant having HLB of 7 to 14 to (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5. Specifically, the mass ratio of (b) nonionic surfactant having HLB of 7 to 14 / (a) oil is preferably 1 or less, such as 0.3 to 1, preferably 0.4 to 1, more preferably 0.45. To 1.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

  A “microemulsion” can be defined in two ways: broad and narrow. That is, in some cases ("narrowly defined microemulsions"), microemulsions are thermodynamically stable isotropic singles having a three-component system with three components: an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant. Refers to the liquid phase; in other cases (`` broadly defined microemulsions ''), microemulsions are transparent or translucent due to smaller particle sizes in typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems. In addition, an emulsion that exhibits a unique appearance is included (Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). “Microemulsion” as used herein refers to a “narrow microemulsion”, ie, a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

  The microemulsion is either an O / W type (oil-in-water type) microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by micelles, or a W / O type (water-in-oil type) microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles It refers to one state or a co-continuous microemulsion in which the number of surfactant molecules associated is infinite so that both the liquid phase and the oil phase have a continuous structure.

  The microemulsion may be a dispersed phase having a number average diameter measured by a laser particle size meter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, more preferably 20 nm or less.

  “Nanoemulsion” as used herein means an emulsion characterized in that it is a dispersed phase having a dimension of less than 350 nm, which may optionally form a lamellar type liquid crystalline phase, (b) It is stabilized at the interface of the dispersed phase / continuous phase by the crown of a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14. In the absence of a specific opacifier, the transparency of the nanoemulsion arises from a small dimension of the dispersed phase, which is obtained for the use of mechanical energy, especially for the use of high pressure homogenizers. .

  Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions composed of, for example, (a) oil swollen, (b) micelles of nonionic surfactants with HLB of 7-14. It is. Moreover, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy for production.

  The microemulsion may be a dispersed phase having a number average diameter as measured with a laser particle size meter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, more preferably 100 nm or less.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W nanoemulsion or microemulsion, a W / O nanoemulsion or microemulsion, or a co-continuous emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, and (a) the number average particle size of the oil is 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm, more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm. The form is preferred.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

  This measurement is performed on an undiluted composition. The blank is determined using distilled water. The transparency may be measured by measuring the turbidity of the turbidimetric analysis (for example, using a 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter manufactured by HACH).

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention may preferably have a turbidimetric turbidity of less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU, more preferably less than 50 NTU.

[Method and use]
The cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin, the hair, the mucous membrane, the nails, the eyelashes by applying it to the skin, to the hair, to the mucous membranes, to the nails, to the eyelashes, to the eyebrows or to the scalp. The eyebrows and / or can be used in non-therapeutic methods such as cosmetic methods to care for the scalp.

  The invention also provides a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the body and / or for facial skin and / or for mucosa and / or for the scalp and / or for hair. And / or for nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product, and / or as a cleaning product or in a cleaning product, And / or the use as a makeup product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.

  In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as it is as the product. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may preferably be a rinse-off product, such as a makeup removal product for the body and / or facial skin. Otherwise, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used as one element of the above products. For example, a cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to make up the product described above.

  Care products may be lotions, creams, hair tonics, care conditioners, sunscreens and the like. The cleaning product may be a shampoo, face wash, hand wash and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blusher, eye shadow, nail polish and the like. The makeup removal product may be a makeup cleansing agent or the like.

  The invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1)
The following cosmetic compositions in the form of transparent O / W emulsions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1 are mixed with the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows: (1) Surfactant and oil were mixed to form an oil phase; (2) The oil phase was heated to approximately 70 ° C; (3) Water and a hydrophilic material were mixed An aqueous phase was formed; and (4) The liquid phase was added into the oil phase followed by mixing to obtain an O / W emulsion. The numerical values of the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by mass” as active raw materials.

(Transparency)
The transparency of the composition was measured by measuring the turbidity of the turbidimetric analysis using a 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter made by HACH. All three of these compositions showed a turbidimetric turbidity of less than 80 NTU (which means good transparency).

(Viscosity measurement)
The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1 was measured as follows. The viscosity of the composition itself (bulk) and the viscosity of the composition diluted with 70% by weight of water (diluted) were measured. A diluted composition was prepared by adding 70 g of water to 100 g of the composition.
Viscosity measurement:
Device: ARES (Manufacturer: TA Instruments)
Shape dimension: conical plate (diameter: 5cm), angle = 0.0404rad, gap = 0.0532mm
Temperature: 25 ° C
Shear rate: 1s ^-1

  Table 2 shows the viscosity data of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 1.

  As is apparent from the above results, the viscosity of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 increased significantly in the presence of water, whereas the composition according to Comparative Example 1 did not show any significant increase in viscosity. It has been found.

(Stability test)
The stability of each of the compositions containing various thickeners was evaluated.

  Each composition according to Examples 1 and 2 was stored in a clear container and kept at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 1 day. Next, the appearance of the composition was visually observed. The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 retained their original transparent aspect and no phase separation was observed.

  Next, the following cosmetic compositions in the form of transparent O / W emulsions according to Comparative Examples 2 to 10 shown in Table 3 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3 as follows: (1 ) Surfactant and oil were mixed to form an oil phase; (2) The oil phase was heated to approximately 70 ° C .; (3) Water and a hydrophilic material were mixed to form a liquid phase; And (4) The liquid phase was added into the oil phase and subsequently mixed to obtain an O / W emulsion. The numerical values of the amounts of the components shown in Table 3 are all based on “% by mass” as active raw materials.

  Each composition according to Comparative Examples 2 to 10 was also stored in a transparent container and kept at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 1 day. Next, the appearance of the composition was visually observed. The observation results are shown in Table 3.

PS: Phase separation
(1) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(2) SUNSOFT Q-83H-C (Taiyo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
(6) ANTIL SOFT SC (Evonik)
(7) Jaguar HP105 (Rhodia)
(8) Aculyn 44 polymer (Rohm And Haas)
(9) Natrosol Plus 330CS (Ashland)
(10) Aculyn 22 Polymer (Rohm And Haas)
(11) Carbopol SF-1 polymer (LUBRIZOL)
(12) Aculyn 38 Polymer (Rohm And Haas)
(13) Satiagum UTC 30 (CARGILL)
(14) Rhodicare CFT (Rhodia)
(15) Awaze XT (AKZO Nobel)

  As is apparent from the above results, it was found that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were stable, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 2 to 10 were unstable.

  Therefore, based on all the above measurement results and test results, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can be transparent, stable and exhibit high viscosity (or high consistency) under wet conditions. It turned out to be. Therefore, the composition is easy to handle even with wet hands, for example. On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 10 are (1) transparent under wet conditions, but cannot exhibit high viscosity (or high consistency), and therefore the compositions are, for example, wet hands. Or (2) they were either translucent or turbid, or unstable, so they could not have a transparent appearance or could not be maintained.

Claims (21)

A cosmetic composition for rinsing off in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion,
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol, preferably 4 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol One polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably having a derived polyglyceryl moiety;
(c) at least one associative polyurethane;
(d) at least one polyol;
A cosmetic composition comprising (e) water, wherein (a) the amount of oil is in the range of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) the oil is selected from the group consisting of plant or animal origin oils, synthetic oils and hydrocarbon oils.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils in a liquid form at room temperature.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (a) the oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.   (a) The amount of oil ranges from 20 to 60% by weight, preferably from 22 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1.   The (b) nonionic surfactant is a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 7.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 9.0 to 13.0, according to any one of claims 1 to 5. Cosmetic composition.   The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polyglyceryl caprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, a polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, a polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units, 3 to 10 The polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate containing 3 to 10 glycerol units. Cosmetic composition as described in any one.   Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is capric acid PG2, lauric acid PG4, lauric acid PG5, oleic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, tricaprylic acid PG6, oleic acid PG10, dioleic acid PG10, isostearic acid PG10, lauric acid PG2, trilauric acid PG10, myristic Selected from acid PG10, dimyristic acid PG10, stearic acid PG10, distearic acid PG10, myristic acid PG5, trimyristic acid PG5, dioleic acid PG5, stearic acid PG5, trioleic acid PG5, caprylic acid PG6 and tricaprylic acid PG6 Item 8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Items 1 to 7.   The raw material of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters preferably having a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol, and the mixture is preferably 5 or The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at least 30% by mass of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a polyglyceryl moiety composed of six glycerins.   (b) The amount of the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is in the range of   The mass ratio of (b) nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 14 to (a) oil is from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of 9 above.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) having an HLB of 7 to 14 is an oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant.   The amount of the oxyalkylene-containing nonionic surfactant is in the range of 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Item 14. A cosmetic composition according to Item 13.   The (c) associative polyurethane is a copolymer comprising at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block; 15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein:   The amount of the (c) associative polyurethane ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of 15.   The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, further comprising at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from (b) and / or at least one additional ionic surfactant. The cosmetic composition as described.   The amount of all polyols is between 4% and 50% by weight, preferably between 6% and 40%, more preferably between 8% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 18. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein   The form of O / W emulsion, wherein (a) the oil is in the form of droplets having a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 150 nm. Cosmetic composition.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the transparency is greater than 50%, preferably greater than 60%, more preferably greater than 70%.   21. A non-therapeutic method for caring for skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, wherein the cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 20 Non-therapeutic method, characterized in that the composition is applied to the skin, to the hair, to the mucous membranes, to the nails, to the eyelashes, to the eyebrows or to the scalp.   Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, for the body and / or for facial skin and / or for mucous membranes and / or for the scalp. And / or hair and / or nail and / or eyelash and / or eyebrows, as a care product or in a care product and / or a cleaning product Or in a cleaning product and / or as a makeup product or in a makeup product and / or as a makeup removal product or in a makeup removal product.