JP2012021237A - Jacket with lining cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a jacket with a lining cloth solving the following problem, by a method free from causing degradation in the appearance of the jacket, reduction in commodity value, increase in costs, and/or the like: a jacket such as a suit having a lining cloth made of inelastic fabric sometimes makes a wearer have inflexible or discomfort feeling when she (he) moves her (his) body.SOLUTION: The jacket with a lining cloth is structured as follows: pleats 10 giving an open margin in a direction where a back lining 5a and a lining narrow waist 5b are separated from each other, to each of mutually-patched connection parts at the underarms of the back lining 5a and the lining narrow waist 5b, are formed on a lining cloth 5 while inserting them into a space between the lining cloth 5 and a face cloth 2. The pleats 10 may be formed on the back body part-side edge part of the lining narrow waist 5b.

Description

  The present invention relates to a jacket having a non-stretch lining, and more specifically, a feeling of wearing (so-called comfort) by relaxing the wearer's movements by the lining in a manner that does not cause deterioration in appearance or reduction in commercial value. ) Related to improved outerwear.

  For the outerwear of suits and the like, stretch fabric is usually used for the outer material. Thus, for unlined jackets, the movement of the wearer is unlikely to be disturbed, except when the size is too small.

  On the other hand, as for the lining provided for the outerwear of suits and the like, it is common to use non-stretchable fabric, and the lining composed of non-stretchable fabric matched the body shape Especially when it is a jacket, it prevents free movement of the person wearing it.

  Patent Document 1 below proposes to employ a lining made of stretchable fabric at locations corresponding to shoulders, elbows, knees, and the like where body movement increases as a countermeasure against the problem.

Utility Model Registration No. 3155704

  The stretchable fabric has a limited amount of stretch. Compared to rubber, the amount of elongation is small (due to the structure of the weave), and therefore, the suit disclosed in Patent Document 1 has a concern that it may cause resistance and discomfort to a large body movement. The

  Also, if you replace a part of the lining with an elastic fabric that has a different texture or weave structure from the original lining, the appearance of the back of the outerwear will deteriorate, and luxury suits that sell elegance will be casual The product value decreases as it gives an impression.

  In addition, the product cost is adversely affected by adding another part to the original lining.

  This invention solves the above problems by a method that does not cause deterioration of the appearance of the outerwear, reduction of the commercial value, cost increase, etc., and improves the wearing feeling of various lining outerwear including suits. It is an issue.

  In order to solve the above-described problems, the present invention provides pleats on the lining of a jacket having a lining formed of a non-stretchable fabric. Specifically, an allowance is given in the direction where the back of the back and the back belly are separated from each other at the joints of the back of the back (back of the back) and the back of the back of the back (back of the back) The pleats to be used were placed on the lining, and the pleats were inserted between the lining and the outer material and covered with the lining and the outer material.

  In addition, as a structure that can also be applied to a jacket without a backside lining, it has a backside made of non-stretchable fabric, and the back side of the back side is away from the back side of the back side. A pleat for providing an opening allowance was provided on the lining of the lining under the armpits, and the pleat was inserted between the lining and the outer surface and covered with the lining and the outer surface.

  The former pleat provided at the joint between the back and back strips is one of the protrusions formed corresponding to the joint between the back and back strips. It is preferable to fold in a direction opposite to the direction and in a direction to enter between the outer surface and the lining on the side having the projecting piece, and sew the edges of the projecting end of the projecting piece and the projecting end of the other projecting piece together. .

  In the outer garment where the back is present, a pleat that provides an opening allowance in the back width direction with respect to the lining can also be provided at the center of the back width direction of the back.

  The pleats may be either one in which the width of the heel is substantially constant in the entire region, or one in which the width of the heel is changed on the side close to the base of the sleeve or on the side away from the base of the sleeve.

  In the outer garment of the present invention, pleats are provided at locations corresponding to the roots of the sleeves of the lining, and a clearance is given to the dimensions of the lining by the pleats. When the wearer of the jacket lifts the arm, the pleats open, and the width corresponding to the pleats widens in the waistline direction of the back belly, creating a state that is not substantially different from the stretched lining.

  Thereby, a feeling of resistance and a sense of incongruity do not occur with respect to the movement of the wearer's arm and shoulder, and the feeling of wearing the outerwear is improved. Unlike rubber and rubber knitted fabrics, there is no sense of resistance or tension when the pleats open, and a jacket that fits the body shape does not give a tight feeling to the movement of the wearer.

  Moreover, since the said pleat folds a part of lining and is made to enter between a lining and a surface material, the appearance of a jacket does not deteriorate. Since the pleats are covered with the lining and the outer material, it is difficult to notice the presence of the pleats, and there is no loss of luxury or commercial value.

  In addition, since no additional parts are added, the product cost will not increase.

Front view showing an example of a jacket of the present invention The figure which expands and shows a part of lining of the jacket of FIG. 1 is a development view of the back and back of the back (A) An explanatory diagram of an initial stitching procedure between the back and the back of the back, (b) a diagram showing a state in which the deviation of the seam is corrected, (c) an end of stitching of the back of the back Explanatory drawing of the stitching procedure of the pleat forming part of the back and back thin belly The figure which shows the principal part of the stitching part of a back back and a back thin belly Figure showing the pleats closed and open compared Sectional drawing of the position along the VIII-VIII line of FIG. The development which shows the principal part of the back side of the example which formed the pleat on the back thin belly Sectional view along line XX in FIG. (A)-(d) Explanatory drawing of the sewing procedure of the pleat formation part of the back thin stomach of FIG. The figure which looked at the state after protrusion piece folding of the back thin belly of FIG. 11 from the back

  Hereinafter, embodiments of the jacket of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. 1 to 12 of the accompanying drawings.

  FIG. 1 shows a jacket for a man's suit (back). In the figure, 1 is a jacket, 2 is a front material, 2a is the front body of the front material, 3 is a sleeve, 4 is a collar, 5 is a lining, 6 is a side pocket, and 7 is a chest pocket. The front side of the illustrated outerwear has the same configuration as that of the conventional product, and the front material of the front body 2a, the sleeve 3 and the collar 4 is shown in the figure.

  The characterizing portion of the present invention resides in the backing 5 shown in FIG. The lining 5 is formed by stitching together a back lining (back lining) 5a, a lining thin belly (skin lining) 5b, a trunk lining (trunk lining) 5c, and a sleeve lining (sleeve lining) 5d (see FIG. 6). Has been. Each part of the lining is made of a non-stretchable fabric. 2 in FIG. 2 is a turnover made of the same fabric as the outer material, and 9 in FIG. 2 is a side pad provided as necessary. The side arm 9 is easy to install if it is connected in advance to the sleeve back 5d.

  The back 5a is formed by joining the paired left and right parts at the center of the back, and the back back 5a and the back thin belly 5b are joined at the base of the sleeve 3 (on the side of the wearer). A pleat 10 is provided at a corresponding position.

  The pleat 10 is formed with a protruding piece 5e (see FIG. 3) on the side where the back back 5a is connected to the thin back belly 5b, and the protruding piece 5e is folded away from the thin back belly 5b. The edge of the protruding end is sewn together with the edge of the protruding piece 5f of the back thin belly 5b that is inserted into the back back 5a side so as to overlap the edge.

  As shown in FIG. 4 (a), the back thin belly 5b is reversed and placed on the back thin 5a (the reverse back 5a can be reversed and placed on the back thin belly 5b), and the hem of the jacket Overlay the seam allowances 12 on both linings, giving priority to the side. Then, a portion where the seam allowance 12 is exactly overlapped is sewn from the hem side (13 is a seam at that position). In the stitching, when the position of the seam allowance at the next seam is shifted, as shown in FIG. 4B, the seam allowance at the correction part is sewn while correcting the shift.

  As shown in FIG. 4 (c), after stitching up to the overlapping edge (sewing allowance) of the protruding pieces 5e, 5f formed corresponding to the back back 5a and the back thin belly 5b, the reverse back thin belly 5b is Return to the original position, and fold the protrusion 5e so that a crease line is formed on the extension of the seam 13 (on the chain line).

  Then, as shown in FIG. 5, the vicinity of the sleeve side cutting edge of the fabric of the overlapping edge of the protruding pieces 5e and 5f is stitched together (14 is the seam at that position). Thereby, the protruding piece 5e is folded into the back side of the lining, and the desired pleat 10 is formed under the armpit.

  Although the illustrated pleat 10 has a substantially constant width w, the projecting pieces 5e and 5f are shaped so that the width gradually decreases from the side close to the base of the sleeve 3 toward the side away from the base. You may sew both ends.

  In that case, a pleat is formed in which the width of the heel is large on the side close to the base of the sleeve, and the width of the heel decreases as the distance from the base of the sleeve increases, and the object of the invention is achieved even with such a pleat.

  In the lining 5 in which the pleats 10 are formed on the base side of the sleeve 3, the seam allowance on the sleeve side is sewn to the attachment portion of the sleeve 3 together with the sleeve back 5d. As shown in FIG. 6, the sewing at this time is performed such that the cut edges of the back back 5a and the back thin belly 5b are wrapped and hidden by the sleeve back 5d.

  In the illustrated lining 5, pleats 11 are also provided at the stitched portions of the left and right parts of the back lining 5a. The pleats 11 are provided as necessary and do not characterize the present invention. Incidentally, the pleat 11 can also be formed by the same method as the pleat 10.

  In the lining 5 configured as described above, when the back lining 5a and the back thin belly 5b are pulled away from each other at a position close to the sleeve 3, the pleats 10 are opened as shown by a chain line in FIG. Therefore, the width of the lining in the vicinity of the base of the sleeve 3 is widened, and resistance to the movement of the jacket wearer does not occur. The prototype outerwear in which the pleat width w in the folded state was about 20 mm and the unfolded width (2 · w) was 40 mm was very comfortable to wear.

  In addition, the pleat 10 folds the protruding piece 5f of the back thin belly 5b to the back thin belly 5b side, and stitches the edge of the protruding piece 5f and the edge of the protruding piece 5e of the back back 5a superimposed on the protruding piece 5f together. It may be configured.

  In addition, there are so-called total backs of suit jackets. The object of the invention is also achieved by forming a pleat on the back of the jacket.

A specific example of the jacket will be described with reference to FIGS. As shown in FIG. 9, the back of the back is only the Kannon back 5a- ₁ and the vent lining 5a- ₂ , which cannot be sewn to the back thin belly 5b. In such a jacket, the edge on the back side of the back thin belly (which is also made of a non-stretchable fabric) 5b is stitched to the joint portion of the outer fabric 2.

  In FIG. 9, 8 is a look back, 2 b is the back body of the outer material, and the back body 2 b and the slender body 2 c (see FIG. 10) are stitched together at the position of the seam 15.

  The edge of the back side of the back thin belly 5b along the seam 15 is sewn to the seam allowance of the thin belly body 2c (16 is the seam of that portion). A pleat 10 is provided in the armpit portion of the abdomen 5b.

  As shown in FIG. 11, the pleat 10 of FIG. 9 has a protruding piece 5f on the back thin belly 5b {see FIG. 11 (a). This has a width slightly more than twice that of the protruding piece in FIG. 3, first fold along the fold line 20 (see FIG. 11B), and then fold back along the fold line 19 {FIG. 11 (c)}, and a sewing machine is attached to the edge along the crease 19 {see FIG. 11 (d)}.

  Further, a part of the projecting piece 5f folded twice (a portion that is not sewn to the outer fabric) is stitched together at the position of the seam 18 shown in FIG. 12, and the edge (seam allowance) of the projecting end of the projecting piece 5f is sewn into the seam 17 (see FIG. (See 10, which is on the extension of the seam 16).

  This pleat 10 is also covered with the back thin belly 5b, and its presence is hardly understood only by looking at the back side of the jacket. Thus, even if the pleats 10 are formed on the back thin belly 5b, the purpose of improving the wearing feeling of the outerwear is achieved.

  Although the above description has been given taking an example of a man's suit outerwear, the present invention can be applied to all outerwear with a lining. The present invention can also be applied to jackets, coats, and outer garments other than so-called outerwear. It doesn't matter whether the jacket you apply is for women or men.

1 jacket 2 Outer 2a front body 2b back body 2c Hosohara body 3 sleeves 4 collar 5 lining 5a back lining _{5a -1} Guanyin back lining _{5a -2} vent backing 5b UraHosohara 5c Doura 5d sleeve lining 5e, 5f protrusion 6 Side pocket 7 Chest pocket 8 Turn over 9 Side pad 10, 11 Pleated 12 Seam allowance 13-18 Seam 19, 20 Crease

Claims (4)

  It has a lining (5) made of a non-stretchable fabric, and the lining includes a back lining (5a) and a back thin belly (5b), and the back lining (5a) and back thin belly (5b) The lining (5) is provided with a pleat (10) that provides an opening allowance in a direction in which the back sole (5a) and the back thin belly (5b) are separated from each other at the joint portion of the armpit A garment with a lining in which the pleats (10) are covered with a lining (5) and a surface (2).   It has a back thin belly (5b) made of a non-stretchable fabric, and the opening allowance in the direction in which the back thin belly (5b) is separated from the back body (2b) with respect to the back thin belly (5b) A pleat (10) for providing a lining is provided on the lining thin belly (5b) under the armpit, and the pleat (10) is covered with the lining thin belly (5b) and the outer surface (2). .   One of the protruding pieces (5e, 5f) (for example, 5e) formed so that the pleat (10) corresponds to the joint portion of the back back (5a) and the back thin belly (5b) Fold in a direction opposite to the protruding direction of the protruding piece and between the outer surface (2) and the backing on the side having the protruding piece (5e), and fold the edge of the protruding end of the protruding piece (5e) The outer garment having a lining according to claim 1, wherein the edges of the protruding ends of the protruding pieces (5f) are sewn together.   The jacket which has a lining of Claim 1 or 3 which provided the pleat (11) which provides the opening allowance to a back width direction with respect to a lining in the back width direction center part of the said back lining (5a).

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