JP2007269723A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic having excellent humectant effects, good slip and spread during coating, a high glossy feeling and excellent impartment of a springy feeling. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic is obtained by formulating (a) one or two or more kinds of water-soluble film-forming agents with (b) one or two or more kinds of water-soluble humectants and (c) a compound in which carboxy groups at both terminals of an oligomer ester of a dimer acid with a dimer diol are esterified with isostearyl alcohol. (a) The water-soluble film-forming agents are selected from polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyethylene glycol. (b) The water-soluble humectants are selected from citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, acetylglutamic acid and salts thereof, urea, arginine and hydroxyproline. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic comprising a water-soluble film-forming agent selected from polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, and polyethylene glycol, a specific water-soluble humectant, and a specific ester compound. The present invention relates to a cosmetic that has a good spread, an excellent moisturizing effect, and excellent glossiness and firmness.

Human skin loses its elasticity as it ages, and wrinkles and sagging appear. A number of cosmetics have been put on the market for those who have developed such symptoms to supplement the skin with moisture, give it a gloss, and raise the sagging of the skin.
As such cosmetics, a specific plant-derived component, a method of giving firmness and gloss to the skin in combination with other medicinal ingredients (for example, see Patent Documents 1 to 4), and a highly polymerized silicone oil are blended. A method (for example, refer to Patent Document 5) that gives firmness and gloss is disclosed.
In addition, a method of imparting a moisturizing effect to the skin and a method of maintaining the moisturizing feeling by using a specific glycoside, saccharides such as trehalose and starches are disclosed (for example, Patent Document 6, 7).
Furthermore, a homopolymer of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine (hereinafter abbreviated as MPC), or a copolymer of MPC and a hydrophobic monomer, and a water hydrating agent are blended to provide good spreading and moisturizing effect. A method for obtaining a cosmetic material for the eye has been developed by combining a method of obtaining a copolymer of MPC and a hydrophobic monomer, acetylated hyaluronic acid and a polyhydric alcohol (see, for example, Patent Documents 8 and 9). ).
On the other hand, specific esterified products of dimer acid and dimer diol have been developed for the purpose of improving the feeling of use and water retention. (For example, refer to Patent Document 10).

However, the method of blending a specific plant-derived component may not provide sufficient feeling of use such as spreading and moisturizing effect, and the method of blending highly polymerized silicone oil does not provide sufficient moisturizing effect. There was a case.
In addition, the method using a specific glycoside or a sugar such as trehalose or starch is not satisfactory in terms of spreading and giving a glossy feeling.
Furthermore, the method of blending the MPC polymer and the water-holding oil agent is not satisfactory in terms of the effect of imparting a sense of elasticity, and includes a copolymer of MPC and a hydrophobic monomer, acetylated hyaluronic acid and a polyhydric alcohol. The method used in combination was not satisfactory in terms of the moisturizing effect and the gloss imparting effect.
On the other hand, the method of blending a specific esterified product of dimer acid or dimer diol described in Patent Document 10 is not satisfactory in terms of moisturizing effect, feeling of use such as spreading, and imparting elasticity.

JP-A-9-241147 JP 2001-213750 A JP 2002-284663 A JP-A-11-106336 JP 2005008540 A JP 2004-168785 A JP 2005-053841 A JP 2004-143063 A Japanese Patent Laying-Open No. 2005-068073 JP 2004-256515 A

  Therefore, the development of cosmetics with a very high moisturizing effect, good spreading at the time of application, and excellent effect of imparting a feeling of gloss and firmness (feeling that the skin is moistened and stretched) It was desired.

  In view of this situation, the present inventors have conducted extensive research and found that a water-soluble film-forming agent selected from polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, and polyethylene glycol, a specific water-soluble humectant, and a specific ester compound, dimer acid and dimer. It has been found that a cosmetic comprising a compound obtained by esterifying a carboxyl group at both ends of an oligomer ester with a diol with isostearyl alcohol solves the above problems, and has completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (a) to (c);
(A) One or more water-soluble film forming agents selected from polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, and polyethylene glycol (b) Citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, acetyl One or more water-soluble humectants selected from glutamic acid and salts thereof, urea, arginine, and hydroxyproline (c) carboxyls at both ends of the oligomeric ester of dimer acid and dimer diol represented by the following chemical formula (1) Compound R ³ OCO—R ¹ — (— COO—R ² —OCO—R ¹ —) _n —COOR ³ (1) whose group is esterified with isostearyl alcohol
(In the formula, R ¹ represents a dimer acid residue, R ² represents a dimer diol residue, R ³ represents an isostearyl alcohol residue, and n represents a number of 4 to 6.)
The cosmetics characterized by mix | blending are provided.
Further, the present invention provides a cosmetic that uses only the eye area.

  The water-soluble film forming agent of component (a) used in the present invention is blended for imparting a sense of elasticity, and includes polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyethylene glycol (hereinafter referred to as “PVA” and “PVP”, respectively). , Which may be abbreviated as “PEG”), or two or more thereof may be used. The molecular weights of PVA, PVP, and PEG are not particularly limited, and may be appropriately selected depending on the compounding agent type and the compounding purpose. As commercially available products, Gohsenol EG-05, EG-25, EG-40 (above, manufactured by Nippon Synthetic Chemical Co., Ltd.), Kuraray Poval PVA-124, PVA-217, PVA-224 (above, made by Kuraray) ), LUVISKOL K30, the same K90 (above, manufactured by BASF Japan), PEG 1500, the same 6000S, the same 20000 (more, manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries), and the like. Among these, PVA has a viscosity of 4% aqueous solution, 90 mPa · s or less at 20 ° C., PVP has an average molecular weight of 40000 to 360000, and PEG has a number average molecular weight of 550 to 20000. The thing which was especially excellent in the provision effect of is obtained and preferable.

  The amount of component (a) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), more preferably 0.05 to 0.3%. If it is this range, the thing especially excellent in the provision effect of a firm feeling will be obtained.

  The water-soluble humectant of component (b) used in the present invention is blended for imparting a moisturizing effect. Specifically, citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid , Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, acetyl glutamic acid and salts thereof, urea, arginine, hydroxyproline, which can be used alone or in combination, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, acetyl glutamic acid, and salts thereof, hydroxy Proline is particularly preferred.

Although the compounding quantity of the component (b) used for this invention is not specifically limited, Preferably, it is 0.01 to 2%, More preferably, it is 0.05 to 1%.
If it is this range, the outstanding thing with a very high moisturizing effect will be obtained.

The compound obtained by esterifying the carboxyl groups at both ends of the oligomeric ester of the dimer acid and dimer diol of the component (c) used in the present invention with isostearyl alcohol (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “ester compound”) Can be represented by the following general formula (1).
R ³ OCO—R ¹ — (— COO—R ² —OCO—R ¹ —) _n —COOR ³ (1)
(In the formula, R ¹ represents a dimer acid residue, R ² represents a dimer diol residue, R ³ represents an isostearyl alcohol residue, and n represents a number of 4 to 6.)

The ester compound of component (c) used in the present invention is a compound obtained by esterifying carboxyl groups present at both ends of an oligomer ester obtained from dimer acid and dimer diol with isostearyl alcohol.
Dimer acid, which is a starting material, is obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acid, but is obtained by dimerizing unsaturated fatty acid having 11 to 22 carbon atoms, and mainly a dibasic acid having about 36 carbon atoms. It is an ingredient. The CAS number corresponds to 61788-89-4. Further, in the dimerization reaction, hydrogenated dimer acid obtained by hydrogenating double bonds is preferable. Examples of commercially available products include PRIPOL 1006, 1009, 1015, and 1025 (manufactured by Unikema).
The dimer diol is mainly composed of a diol having about 36 carbon atoms in which the dimer acid and / or lower alcohol ester thereof is hydrogenated in the presence of a catalyst and the carboxylic acid portion of the dimer acid is an alcohol. Examples of commercially available products include PRIPOL 2033 (manufactured by Unikema).
Isostearyl alcohol includes those obtained by reducing fatty acids obtained from dimer acid by-products, those obtained by the garvet method, those obtained by the aldol condensation method, and the like. Things can also be used. Examples of commercially available products include Speziol C18 ISOC (manufactured by Cognis).

Although the manufacturing method of the ester compound of a component (c) is not specifically limited, For example, after esterifying dimer acid and dimer diol and obtaining oligomer ester, it obtains by esterifying a carboxyl group with isostearyl alcohol further. be able to. It can also be obtained by esterifying dimer acid, dimer diol and isostearyl alcohol at once.
In the production of component (c), when an oligomer ester is obtained as an intermediate, the oligomer ester of dimer acid and dimer diol, which is an intermediate, can be obtained by changing the respective feed ratios, The average molecular weight can be adjusted. The range of the charging ratio is preferably 0.4 to 0.9 molar equivalent of dimer diol with respect to 1 molar equivalent of dimer acid. Furthermore, when esterifying with isostearyl alcohol, it is preferable that it is 0.8-1.5 mol with respect to the remaining carboxyl group.

  The conditions for the esterification reaction for obtaining the ester compound of component (c) are not particularly limited, and are carried out by a commonly used method. For example, paratoluenesulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, methanesulfonic acid, boron trifluoride diethyl ether complex or the like is used as a catalyst, and heptane, hexane, cyclohexane, toluene, xylene or the like is used as a solvent at 50 to 260 ° C. be able to. Alternatively, esterification can be carried out at 100 to 260 ° C. even without solvent and without catalyst.

  The ester compound of component (c) preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 10,000 to 20,000 mPa · s. Examples of such ester compounds include LUSPLAN DA-DD-IS (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.). The viscosity was measured using a cone plate viscometer (ROTO visco1 manufactured by Haake Co.) under the conditions of a shear rate of 100 (1 / s), a cone diameter of 35 mm, and an angle of 2 °.

  Although the compounding quantity of a component (c) is not specifically limited, Preferably, it is 1-15%, More preferably, it is 2-10%. If it is this range, it will become smooth and favorable spread at the time of application | coating, the effect of a component (a) (b) will be improved further, and the thing excellent in provision of the glossiness and firmness with a high moisturizing effect will be obtained.

In addition to the above essential components, the cosmetics of the present invention include oily components, surfactants, aqueous components, water-soluble polymers, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, powders, fragrances, preservatives, colorants, cosmetics Ingredients, pH adjusters, and other components used in normal cosmetics can be appropriately blended in a quantitative and qualitative range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
In particular, the water-soluble polymer is preferably blended with the present invention because the effects of the present invention, which are smooth and good spreading at the time of application, a moisturizing effect, a glossy feeling, and a feeling of elasticity are further enhanced. The water-soluble polymer is not particularly limited, but guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, pectin, mannan, starch, pullulan, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, Chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, glycogen, heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid (HA), sodium hyaluronate, tragacanth gum, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, kerato sulfate, locust bean gum, succino Examples include glucan, caronic acid, carboxymethyl chitin, and agar.

The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method, and can be liquid, emulsion, cream, gel, solid, etc., lotion, emulsion, cream, eye cream, beauty serum, massage Skin care cosmetics such as cosmetics, packs, hand creams and body creams, and makeup cosmetics such as cosmetic foundation cosmetics and liquid foundations.
In particular, a cream-like or gel-like high-viscosity dosage form is preferable because the effect of the present invention is more exerted, the moisturizing effect is high, and the glossiness and firmness is excellent.
Further, the cosmetic of the present invention has a plump and moisturizing effect due to the provision of an excellent moisturizing effect, glossiness and firmness when it is used as an eye cream or a cosmetic liquid for eyes, etc. The effect becomes particularly clear, such as the skin becoming less noticeable. Furthermore, a higher moisturizing effect, glossiness and firmness can be imparted by impregnating a non-woven fabric or the like with a lotion or cosmetic liquid and using it as a sheet-like cosmetic.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

(Synthesis Example 1)
"Dimer acid dimer diol oligomer ester isostearyl alcohol ester compound"
Hydrogenated dimer acid (PRIPOL 1006: manufactured by Unikema) 200 g (0.348 mol) and dimer diol (PRIPOL 2033: manufactured by Unikema) 132 g (0.243 mol) were charged into a reactor and heated to 210-220 ° C. in a nitrogen stream. Then, the esterification reaction was carried out for 5 hours while distilling off the generated water to obtain 323 g of an intermediate dimer acid dimer diol oligomer ester (dimer acid: dimer diol = 1: 0.7). Furthermore, 307 g of the oligomer ester and 59 g (0.217 mol) of isostearyl alcohol (Speziol C18 ISOC: manufactured by Cognis) were charged into a reactor, heated to 210 to 220 ° C. in a nitrogen stream, and the generated water was distilled off. Then, the esterification reaction was performed for 10 hours to obtain 351 g of the target ester compound. The obtained ester compound had a hue Gardner 2, an acid value of 5.2, a saponification value of 111, a viscosity of 15,000 mPa · s, and a refractive index of 1.48.

Example 1 (Invention Products 1-6 and Comparative Products 1-10): Eye Cream An eye cream was prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 and the following production method. For the obtained eye cream, (1) feeling of use (spreading), (2) moisturizing effect, (3) imparting a glossy feeling, and (4) imparting a firm feeling are evaluated by the following methods and the results are also shown. It was shown in 1.

(Production method)
A: Components (11) to (24) are heated to 70 ° C.
B: Components (1) to (10) are heated to 70 ° C.
C: B is added to A and emulsified.
D: After cooling C, components (25) to (26) were added to obtain an eye cream.

(Evaluation method: feeling of use (spreading spread), moisturizing effect, glossy effect, elasticity effect)
After washing the face twice a day in the morning and evening by 10 professional evaluation panels, after cleaning the face with commercially available lotion and milky lotion, each sample of products 1 to 6 of the present invention and comparative products 1 to 10 was processed to a large extent. Ingredients were applied to the eyes such as the corners of the eyes and under the eyes. This is done for 2 weeks, and for each sample, (1) feeling of use (spreading spread), (2) moisturizing effect, (3) giving a glossy feeling, (4) giving a feeling of firmness to the following (b) evaluation criteria The sensory evaluation was performed in five stages, and the average score of each sample was determined using the following (b) four-stage criteria.
(I) Evaluation criteria:
[Evaluation Result] [Score]
Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Normal: 3 points Somewhat bad: 2 points Bad: 1 point (b) Criteria:
[Average score] [Judgment]
4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

As is clear from the results in Table 1, the products 1 to 6 of the present invention were eye creams excellent in feeling of use (spreading spread), moisturizing effect, glossiness, and firmness.
On the other hand, Comparative products 1, 2 and 3 in which only one component of components (a), (b) and (c) is added in an increased amount have a poor feeling of use (spreading), and have a moisturizing effect, a glossy feeling and a firm feeling. It was inferior to the application, no glossiness or firmness, inferior use feeling (spreading) and moisturizing effect, or inferior to any effect.
Moreover, the comparative product 4 which does not mix | blend a component (c) but mix | blends the pyrrolidone carboxylic acid of the component (b) in an increased amount does not provide a glossiness, and is inferior to a feeling of use (spreading spread), a moisturizing effect, and a feeling of elasticity Comparative product 5 that does not contain component (b) is inferior in imparting moisturizing effect and elasticity, and comparative product 6 that does not contain component (a) and increases the amount of the ester compound of component (c) is moisturized. Although effects and the like were obtained, there was no added elasticity.
Comparative product 7 containing lanolin in place of component (c) is inferior in use feeling (spreading spread), moisturizing effect, glossiness, and elasticity, and instead of component (b) Comparative product 8 in which an increased amount of glycerin was added had a moisturizing effect and the like, but was inferior in terms of providing a feeling of use (expansion) and a feeling of elasticity.
Moreover, although the comparative product 9 which mix | blended maltitol instead of the component (b) had the feeling of use (spreading spread), it was inferior in the surface of a moisturizing effect, the provision of a glossiness, and the provision of a firm feeling.
Moreover, although the comparative product 10 which mix | blended methylcellulose instead of the component (a) was able to obtain a moisturizing effect, it was inferior in terms of feeling of use (spreading spread), glossiness, and firmness.

Example 2 Eye lotion (component) (%)
1. Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate 1
2. Sorbitan monooleate 1
3. Cetostearyl alcohol 1
4). Liquid paraffin 5
5. Triglyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate 3
6. Cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate 5
7). Natural vitamin E 0.5
8). Ester compound (Note 1) 5
9. Purified water remaining amount 10. Edetate disodium 0.1
11. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.3
12 Phenoxyethanol 0.5
13. Glycerin 5
14 Dipropylene glycol 10
15. Sodium lactate (Note 7) 0.2
16. Hydroxyproline (Note 3) 0.05
17. Polyvinyl alcohol (Note 4) 0.1
18. Gellan gum 0.1
19. Ethanol 5
20. Perfume appropriate amount Note 7: Lactic acid soda (Musashino Chemical Laboratory)

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are dissolved by heating at 70 ° C.
B: A part of component (9), (10) to (17) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., and then added to A to emulsify.
C: Swell component (18) with the remainder of component (9) heated to 70 ° C.
D: After cooling B to room temperature, a mixture of C and components (19) and (20) was added to obtain an eye emulsion.

The eye lotion of Example 2 was an eye lotion that was excellent in spreading at the time of application, a moisturizing effect, and a glossy feeling, and in providing a firm feeling.

Example 3 Cream (ingredient) (%)
1. Stearic acid 2
2. Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate 3
3. Cetostearyl alcohol 3
4). Squalane 10
5). Paraffin wax 5
6). Candelilla wax 3
7). Dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester 5
8). Ester compound (Note 1) 5
9. Glycerin 10
10. Propylene glycol 10
11. Urea (Note 8) 0.1
12 Triethanolamine 1
13. Purified water remaining amount 14. Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Note 5) 0.05
15. Ethanol 5
16. Perfume appropriate amount Note 8: Japanese Pharmacopeia (manufactured by Takasugi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are dissolved by heating at 70 ° C.
B: Components (9) to (14) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., then added to A and emulsified.
C: After cooling B to room temperature, components (15) and (16) were added to obtain a cream.

The cream of Example 3 was a cream excellent in spreading and spreading at the time of application, moisturizing effect, glossiness, and firmness.

Example 4 Sheet cosmetic (component) (%)
1. Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.8
2. Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5
3. Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphoric acid 0.1
4). Squalane 1.0
5). Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 0.5
6). Cetostearyl alcohol 0.2
7). Ester compound (Note 1) 5
8.1,3-Butylene glycol 15
9. Polyethylene glycol (Note 6) 0.3
10. Sodium hydroxide 0.03
11. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
12 N-acetyl-L-glutamic acid (Note 9) 1
13. Purified water remaining amount 14. Ethanol 5
15. Fragrance appropriate amount Note 9: N-acetyl-L-glutamic acid (Nippon Protein Co., Ltd.)

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (7) are dissolved by heating at 70 ° C.
B: After components (8) to (13) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., A is added and emulsified.
C: After cooling B, components (14) and (15) are added, and this is impregnated into the nonwoven fabric.
D. C was sealed and filled into an aluminum laminate bag-like container to obtain a sheet-like cosmetic.

The sheet-like cosmetic of Example 4 was a sheet-like cosmetic that was excellent in feeling of use (spreading spread), moisturizing effect, and glossiness, and also provided a firm feeling.

Claims (2)

The following components (a) to (c);
(A) One or more water-soluble film forming agents selected from polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polyethylene glycol (b) Citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, acetyl One or more water-soluble humectants selected from glutamic acid and salts thereof, urea, arginine, and hydroxyproline (c) The oligomeric esters of dimer acid and dimer diol represented by the following general formula (1) Compound R ³ OCO—R ¹ — (— COO—R ² —OCO—R ¹ —) _n —COOR ³ (1) in which carboxyl group is esterified with isostearyl alcohol
(In the formula, R ¹ represents a dimer acid residue, R ² represents a dimer diol residue, R ³ represents an isostearyl alcohol residue, and n represents a number of 4 to 6.)
Cosmetics characterized by blending.   The cosmetic material according to claim 1, wherein the site of use is dedicated to the eyes.