JP2007009395A - Ultrafine false-twist polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an ultrafine false-twist polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn giving a woven or knit fabric having excellent soft feeling, exquisite appearance and color development and moderate bulkiness and stretchability unattainable by conventional technique, producible in high productivity and having low environmental load of the waste water generated by alkali treatment. <P>SOLUTION: The yarn is composed essentially of a polytrimethylene terephthalate and satisfies both of formula (1): 5≤TWA(%)≤20 and formula (2): 0.01≤FDT(dtex)≤1 wherein TWA is a dry heat shrinkage after alkali thinning treatment and FDT is a single fiber fineness after alkali thinning treatment. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to an ultrafine false twisted yarn having high shrinkage characteristics, more particularly excellent in spinning stability, and can obtain an unprecedented woven or knitted fabric, and has an appropriate bulge in addition to excellent fineness and softness. The present invention relates to an ultrafine false twisted yarn that can be stretched.

  Conventionally, polyester extra fine yarns having a single fiber fineness of 1 dtex or less made of polyethylene terephthalate have been used for peach-woven fabrics and wiping cloths. Moreover, about the false twisting which is one of the use expansion | deployment of the polyester type | system | group ultra fine yarn, Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2003-138438 (patent document 1) etc. are shown. However, the shrinkage characteristics of conventional polyester ultrafine yarns are insufficient, so that when the woven or knitted fabric is used, the feeling of poor texture cannot be eliminated and the feeling of precision is poor.

  In addition, the method of false twisting directly spun polyester-based ultrafine yarns can improve stretchability and softness, but the spinning and false twisting processes are poor and the generation of fluff and shrinkage properties are insufficient. There are problems such as being.

Therefore, ultrafine yarns using polytrimethylene terephthalate whose polymer itself has high shrinkage properties are disclosed in JP-A-11-1000072 (Patent Document 2), JP-A 2001-348735 (Patent Document 3), and the like. Proposed in Certainly, since the single fiber fineness is thin, it is possible to obtain a soft woven or knitted fabric. However, with these yarns, the shrinkage characteristics are lowered by processing, so that it is impossible to obtain a smooth woven or knitted fabric with a fine feeling in the woven or knitted fabric. That is, since the former is a direct spinning type, the above-mentioned problems cannot be solved and there is a problem of delayed shrinkage in a winding package or a living machine, and the yarn must be reduced in the drawing process. For the latter, ultrafine yarn is obtained from sea-island type composite yarn, but the polymer used as the alkali elution component is a polyester copolymerized with an organic metal salt, and the alkali elution time is long. There is a problem that the polytrimethylene terephthalate component is prevented from shrinking.
JP 2003-138438 A Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-100721 JP 2001-348735 A

  The present invention can provide a woven or knitted fabric having excellent softness, precision, moderate swelling and stretchability, which is not achieved with the above-described conventional technology, and is excellent in productivity and quality stability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polytrimethylene terephthalate extra fine false twisted yarn having a small environmental load of waste liquid.

  The ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention that achieves the above-mentioned object has the following configuration.

An ultrafine false twisted yarn comprising a yarn substantially composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, wherein the dry heat shrinkage (TWA) and the single fiber fineness (FDT) satisfy all of the following formulas.
(1) 8 ≦ TWA (%) ≦ 25
(2) 0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 1
In the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the expansion / contraction recovery rate (CR) satisfies 3 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 30.

  The ultrafine false twist yarn of the present invention is preferably a false twist yarn of a sea-island type composite yarn in which the island component is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and sea component polylactic acid, and the sea component / island component composite ratio is It is obtained by alkali-reducing false twisted yarn characterized by being 10/90 to 50/50.

  In the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention, preferably, the boiling water shrinkage (SWA) and the dry heat shrinkage (TWA) after alkali reduction satisfy TWA (%) / SWA (%) ≧ 1.

  The composite mixed yarn of the present invention is characterized by using the above-mentioned ultrafine false twisted yarn for the core portion or the sheath portion.

  According to the present invention, a polytrimethylene terephthalate can be obtained that has a soft feeling, a fine feeling, an excellent woven or knitted fabric having an appropriate swell and stretchability, is excellent in productivity, and has a low environmental impact due to waste liquid after alkali treatment. Extra fine false twisted yarn is provided. Moreover, it becomes possible to improve the quality deterioration in the fiber manufacturing process and false twisting process, and the decrease in productivity.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, since acid treatment is not required when eluting polytrimethylene terephthalate ultrafine yarn, it is compatible with cotton and cellulosic fibers and is suitable for fabrication such as woven fabric with cotton.

  The fabric comprising the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention is used for clothing, especially women's clothing such as dresses, shirts, blouses and skirts, and sports clothing such as athletic clothing and ski clothing because of its excellent windproof properties, and clothing. For materials, it is suitable for handkerchiefs, eyeglasses wipes, face-wash towels, shading curtains, and the like.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

  The ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention is an ultra fine false twisted yarn composed of a yarn substantially composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate. The polytrimethylene terephthalate will be described later, but substantially means specifically that 90 wt% or more is composed of the polymer.

It is important that the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention has a dry heat shrinkage rate (TWA) satisfying the following formula (1).
(1) 8 ≦ TWA (%) ≦ 25
When ultrafine yarn is obtained by reducing the alkali, generally, the dry heat shrinkage is generally defined by the dry heat shrinkage before reducing the alkali. Alkali weight loss is used to create a soft and supple texture by melting the fiber surface to create voids at the intersections in the woven or knitted fabric. In the present invention, it is possible to obtain an ultrafine false twisted yarn capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and fine feeling and an appropriate swelling by imparting shrinkage and crimpability to the yarn even after alkali weight reduction. I found it. That is, when the dry heat shrinkage rate (TWA) of the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric after reducing the alkali satisfies 8 ≦ TWA (%) ≦ 25, a soft and fine woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. When TWA (%) <8, the woven or knitted fabric cannot be given a fine feeling, and when TWA (%)> 25, the shrinkage is too strong, and the coarse feeling as the woven or knitted fabric becomes strong. More preferably, 10 ≦ TWA (%) ≦ 18. In addition, the dry heat shrinkage rate (TWA) in this invention means the value measured with the measuring method mentioned later.

  Moreover, it is preferable that the ratio of the boiling water shrinkage rate (SWA) and the dry heat shrinkage rate (TWA) of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention satisfies TWA (%) / SWA (%) ≧ 1. This is because even if the dry heat shrinkage rate (TWA) is a high value, if the boiling water shrinkage rate (SWA) is higher than that, the soft and supple texture is reduced. More preferably, 1.0 ≦ TWA (%) / SWA (%) ≦ 2.5. In addition, the boiling shrinkage rate (SWA) in this invention means the value measured with the measuring method mentioned later.

  In the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention, the preferable range of the boiling water shrinkage (SWA) is 2 ≦ SWA (%) ≦ 20, more preferably 2 ≦ SWA (%) ≦ 15 in consideration of the processability of the dyeing process. is there.

  In addition, when the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention is used as the sheath yarn of the composite blended yarn and a material having a high shrinkage rate is used for the core yarn, the above described even if the ultrafine false twisted yarn has a small shrinkage rate to some extent. It becomes possible to obtain a soft and precise feeling.

Furthermore, the single fiber fineness (FDT) of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention needs to satisfy the following formula (2).
(2) 0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 1
By satisfying 0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 1, it is possible to obtain a soft feeling when a woven or knitted fabric is formed. A more preferable range is 0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 0.5. When FDT (dtex)> 1, a soft feeling cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. Further, if FDT (dtex) <0.01, it is too thin and the color developability deteriorates.

  The ultra-thin false twisted yarn of the present invention generally has a false twist coefficient k defined as k = T × √dT (k: false twist coefficient, T: false twist number, dT; decitex) of 15000 to 38000. preferable. About the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention, since the effect of bulging feeling due to false twist crimp tends to be small, it is preferable to set a high false twist number, but more preferably in the range of 20000 to 35000 from the viewpoint of operability. use.

  About the total fineness of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of this invention, the range of 20-167 dtex is used preferably from the relationship of the passability in a post process, a feeling of swelling, and the surface feeling in a fabric.

  In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn composed of the polytrimethylene terephthalate of the present invention may be an irregular cross section such as a flat shape, a triangular shape, and a hollow shape in addition to a round cross section.

  Moreover, in the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric having moderate swelling, soft feeling, and stretch can be obtained by setting the preferable range of the stretch recovery rate (CR) to 3 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 30. . When fibers with CR (%) <3 are used, the knitted fabric has no bulge, softness and stretch, and when fibers with CR (%)> 30 are used, the knitted fabric has a feeling of fluffiness. Resulting in. More preferably, 7 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 20. In addition, the expansion-contraction recovery rate (CR) in this invention means the value measured with the measuring method mentioned later.

  By making the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention into a composite mixed yarn used for a core yarn or a sheath yarn, a woven or knitted fabric having a unique surface feeling can be obtained in addition to a soft woven or knitted fabric having a fine feeling. Preferably, a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent soft feeling can be obtained by using a composite mixed yarn using the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention as a sheath yarn.

  In addition, when using the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention as a sheath yarn, that is, when it is arranged on the outer layer side to form a composite mixed yarn, the core yarn is not particularly limited, but a material having a high shrinkage rate is used as the core yarn. It is preferable to do. Specifically, the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is preferably 15% or more.

  When using the ultra-fine false twisted yarn of the present invention as a composite mixed yarn, the mixed yarn is not particularly limited, but the cross-sectional shape is a round cross section, a triangular shape, a Y shape, an eight leaf shape, a flat shape. It may be an indefinite shape, or a composite yarn such as a side-by-side composite yarn, an eccentric composite yarn, or a concentric core-sheath composite yarn may be used. In addition, the polymer constituting the core yarn is preferably a thermoplastic polymer such as polyester, polyamide, or polyolefin from the viewpoint of moldability, and polyethylene terephthalate or polypropylene terephthalate is more preferably used.

  Further, the total fineness of the mixed yarn is not particularly limited, but a range of 30 to 200% of the total fineness of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably used. When the total fineness of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention is 30% or less, sufficient strength and core yarn characteristics cannot be obtained, and when it is 200% or more, it becomes a hard material without soft feeling. End up.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the ultra fine false twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated.

  The ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention is a sea-island type composite yarn composed of a sea-island type composite fiber in which the island component is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and a sea component polylactic acid, particularly a sea-island type composite false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting the sea-island type composite fiber. Is preferably obtained by reducing the amount of alkali. By using such a sea-island type composite yarn, there are no processing problems such as delayed shrinkage in the state of the yarn package and the raw machine that have been generated chronically in the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and further defined in the present invention. An ultrafine false twisted yarn having a dry heat shrinkage in the numerical range and a single fiber fineness can be obtained.

  In addition, when performing false twist processing or composite fiber mixing processing, it is processed in the state of sea-island type composite yarn, but because it can be heat-set at a low processing temperature of polylactic acid, which is a sea component, The polytrimethylene terephthalate, i.e., the polytrimethylene terephthalate ultrafine yarn, can be imparted with appropriate crimping while leaving shrinkage characteristics. Furthermore, because the polytrimethylene terephthalate ultrafine yarn is covered with polylactic acid, a sea component, in order to perform false twisting and composite fiber mixing, damage to the polytrimethylene terephthalate extra fine yarn during processing is Less, the operability in false twisting / combined fiber processing is good, and the crimp characteristics that can be imparted can be increased.

  Also, polylactic acid, a sea component, has a high alkali weight loss rate, so it is easy to dissolve in the alkali weight loss process, and the island component polytrimethylene terephthalate ultrafine false twist yarn is more likely to shrink, and the polytrimethylene terephthalate ultrafine false twist yarn in the weight loss step The damage to is less.

  Polylactic acid has a lower melting temperature than polytrimethylene terephthalate or polyethylene terephthalate, so the melting temperature is higher than that of polytrimethylene terephthalate, compared to the case where polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with an organometallic salt is used as the sea component. Can be kept low, and it is possible to stabilize operations including raw yarns and higher orders and to prevent a decrease in texture due to thermal degradation of polytrimethylene terephthalate. Due to the effects of these polylactic acids, it is possible to obtain a sea-island type composite yarn having a high raw yarn strength, a good yarn forming property, stretchability, good splitting property, excellent texture, and a small environmental load.

  The polylactic acid referred to in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably a polylactic acid composed of L-lactic acid having an average molecular weight of 50,000 to 100,000 and a purity of 95.0% to 99.5%. For example, the strength in the process can be maintained, and since moderate biodegradability can be obtained, the environmental load of the waste liquid after elution is small and preferable.

  In addition, when the sea component is polyethylene terephthalate as in the prior art, since it takes time to completely dissolve only with the alkali weight reduction treatment, it is usually necessary to perform an acid treatment such as maleic acid before the alkali weight reduction, Therefore, it could not be combined with cotton or cellulosic fibers, but by using polylactic acid as the sea component, the above problems can be solved and fabrication such as cotton and cellulosic fibers can be made. Become.

  The polytrimethylene terephthalate of the island component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate which is the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention, and is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3 propanediol as the main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol% or less, preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of copolymerizable compounds include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, and sebacic acid, while glycol components include, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, and cyclohexanedimethanol. , Polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and the like can be mentioned, but are not limited thereto. Further, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments and the like as antioxidants can be added as necessary.

  One of the factors that can impart stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric using the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention is the elastic elasticity characteristic unique to polytrimethylene terephthalate, in which the main chain of the methylene group expands and contracts.

  In addition, the sea-island type composite yarn according to the present invention can increase the strength of the raw yarn, which is essential for maintaining the yarn maneuverability and processability, by arranging polylactic acid as the sea component of the sea-island type composite fiber. The sea-island composite yarn preferably has a raw yarn strength of 3.0 cN / dtex or more. If the raw yarn strength is less than 3.0 cN / dtex, the raw yarn strength is too low and the operability of the raw yarn deteriorates. In addition, even in higher-order processes, single yarn breakage, fluff, etc. cause process passability and product quality deterioration. Will occur. In order to further improve the raw yarn operability and process passability, the raw yarn strength is preferably 3.3 cN / dtex or more.

  The sea / island component ratio of the sea-island composite fiber in the present invention is 10/90 to 50/50 (weight ratio) from the viewpoint of stability of the composite form, yarn-making property, and productivity. When the composite ratio of the sea component is less than 10%, a composite abnormality occurs, resulting in poor splitting, or even if the composite form is normal, poor splitting due to poor dissolution of the sea component results in sufficient softness. Can't get. On the other hand, when the composite ratio of the sea components exceeds 50%, the productivity is lowered, and when the woven or knitted fabric is formed, “futsukuki” is generated and the knitted or knitted fabric has no rebound. The composite ratio of sea component / island component of the sea-island composite fiber is more preferably 15/85 to 40/60 (weight ratio).

  In the sea-island type composite fiber in the present invention, the fiber surface may be completely covered with a sea component, or a part of the island component may be exposed. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the island component after removing the sea component may be a cross-sectional shape such as a flat shape or a triangular shape in addition to the round cross-section.

  Furthermore, the sea-island type composite fiber according to the present invention can avoid the deterioration of the spinning property due to the composite abnormality or the like by setting the number of island components in the cross section of the single fiber to 3 to 100, and also the single fiber fineness of the island component is appropriate. Therefore, it is easy to achieve both the spinning property and the soft feeling. A more preferable island component number is 6-80. The number of island components and the fineness of the sea-island type composite fiber may be appropriately set so that the fineness (0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 1) of the ultrafine yarn after the alkali weight reduction becomes a desired value.

  In the present invention, the sea-island type composite fiber constituting the sea-island type composite yarn can be manufactured using a known apparatus for composite yarn spinning, for example, FIG. 3 of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 57-47938 or The apparatus shown in FIG. 2 of Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-82526 can be manufactured using a preferred example.

  In spinning the sea-island type composite fiber in the present invention, a method in which spinning and drawing processes are continuously performed, a method of once winding as an undrawn yarn, drawing, a method of performing a relaxation heat treatment after drawing, a high-speed spinning method, etc. Applicable to any process.

  The obtained sea-island type composite yarn is false twisted, and the false twisting in the present invention can be performed by any type of false twisting machine generally used for false twisting of thermoplastic filament yarn. Here, in order to obtain a false twisted yarn having preferable shrinkage characteristics and elongation recovery rate, false twisting is performed on the sea-island type composite yarn in a temperature range of 80 ° C. to 150 ° C. at the yarn temperature at the twisted portion heater outlet. When the yarn temperature is lower than 80 ° C., preferable crimps cannot be imparted. When the yarn temperature is higher than 150 ° C., the island component polytrimethylene terephthalate also has low shrinkage. This is not preferable because the fabric has no sense of elaboration. On the other hand, when the yarn temperature is higher than 120 ° C., fusion of polylactic acid may occur, workability is deteriorated, and crimping of the false twist yarn is also not preferable. Therefore, the yarn temperature range of 80 ° C to 110 ° C is more preferable.

  In addition, in other false twisting conditions, the false twist number employed in general false twist processing may be used, and when improving crimp fastness, a higher false twist number and false twist temperature are adopted. It is preferable that the false twist number is generally k = T × √dT (k: false twist coefficient, T: false twist number, dT: decitex), and the false twist coefficient k is 15000-38000. preferable. The false twisting method may be any method such as a commonly used pin type, friction disk type, nip belt type, and air twist type. Moreover, although the relaxation set after untwisting may be performed, it is preferable not to perform the relaxation set in order to improve the shrinkage characteristics and stretchability. When false twisting, the sea-island type composite yarn of polylactic acid / polytrimethylene terephthalate to be used may be one, or a plurality of them may be aligned and processed.

  Also, when using the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention as a composite mixed yarn, the above-mentioned polytrimethylene terephthalate ultra fine yarn is mixed with the sea-island composite yarn and other yarns, and then mixed and mixed. It may be false twisted. A known method can be used for the composite method of the composite fiber.

  Here, when the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention is used as the sheath yarn of the composite blended yarn and a material having a high shrinkage rate is used for the core yarn, the shrinkage rate of the ultrafine false twisted yarn of the present invention that is the sheath yarn is reduced. Therefore, it is also possible to perform a two-heater false twisting method.

  The method for producing a composite mixed yarn using the polytrimethylene terephthalate extra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, after false twisting a yarn containing polytrimethylene terephthalate, false twisting is performed. By feeding the two different fibers (sheath polytrimethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn and the above core yarn) with a feed difference by the other yarn not to be used and the fluid jet processing method using the fluid jet nozzle A state in which one side is wrapped around and covered by the other side can form a core-sheath structure. In addition, as another manufacturing method, false twisting is performed after fluid injection processing, and a structure in which one filament covers the other by the difference in the degree of crimp or elongation by composite false twisting, Processing to constitute the result layer structure is also possible. There is also a covering method using a covering machine. In the composite processed yarn of the present invention, the core part and the sheath part constituting the core-sheath structure do not need to be completely separated and independent, and are partially mixed with the single fiber of the yarn constituting each part. However, it may be slightly reversed.

  The sea-island type composite yarn is subjected to false twisting to obtain a sea-island type composite false-twisted yarn, which is then woven or knitted. When weaving a woven fabric with a sea-island type composite false twist yarn, a known weaving machine such as a rapier loom, a water loom, an air jet loom or the like can be used. Even when a knitted fabric is knitted with the sea-island type composite false twisted yarn, a known knitting machine such as a circular knitting machine, a warp knitting machine, a flat knitting machine or the like can be used.

  It is also preferable to dye at this stage. In dyeing, a known dyeing method can be used, and it is preferable to use a softer relaxation method or a liquid flow relaxation method as a relaxation scouring step.

  After forming the woven or knitted fabric, the sea component of the sea-island type composite false twisted yarn is reduced by alkali. In reducing the amount of alkali, the amount can be reduced according to a conventional method, for example, using an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. It is preferable to reduce the amount by using a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution heated to 80 ° C. or higher because the alkali weight loss time can be shortened. In the case of a high-density woven fabric, it is more preferable to weave the sea-island type composite false twisted yarn and then perform alkali weight reduction to obtain an ultrafine false twisted yarn. In addition, the obtained sea-island type composite false twisted yarn can be wound around the package with a low winding tension, and the amount of alkali can be reduced in the wound package state to obtain an ultrafine false twisted yarn.

  Through the above steps, a woven or knitted fabric using the ultra fine false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, each characteristic value in an Example was calculated | required with the following method.

A. Boiling water shrinkage (SWA)
The sample is wound 10 times on a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex, taken out for 12 hours, and then measured for length (L). Then, this casserole was wrapped in gauze, treated with hot water at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes under no load, and allowed to stand for about 12 hours. Then, the casserole length (L1) was measured, and the following formula was calculated.
・ Boiling water shrinkage (SWA) = (L−L1) / L × 100
B. Dry heat shrinkage (TWA)
The sample is wound 10 times on a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m under a tension of 90 mg / dtex, taken out for 12 hours, and then measured for length (L). Then, this casserole is wrapped with gauze, hydrothermally treated under no load at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes, and treated under an unloaded condition with a 3% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 80 ° C. until the sea components are completely dissolved. After leaving it at room temperature for about 12 hours, it is treated in a dryer at 160 ° C. under no load for 5 minutes. Then, after hanging on a rod of 2 cm or less and allowing to stand for about 12 hours, the length of the case (L2) was measured and calculated by the following formula.
・ Dry heat shrinkage (TWA) = (L−L2) / L × 100
C. Single fiber fineness (FDT)
Wrap 10 times under a tension meter of 90 mg / dtex on a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m, leave it for 12 hours, wrap this case with gauze, and heat at 98 ° C for 20 minutes under no load. Treated with water and treated with 3% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 80 ° C under no load until the sea components are completely dissolved, then cut to a length of 10 cm with a load of 0.1 g / dtex and measured the weight of the single fiber The single fiber fineness was measured.

D. Expansion / contraction recovery rate (CR)
Wrapping 10 times under a tension of 0.8 mg circumference with a tension meter of 90 mg / dtex, leaving it for 12 hours, wrapping it in gauze, and treating with hot water at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes. After alkali reduction treatment with, air dry for 24 hours. Subsequently, it measured according to JIS L1013 (1999).

E. Strength Measured according to JIS L1013 (1999) using Tensilon UCT-100 manufactured by Orientec Corporation.

F. Intrinsic viscosity [η]
A sample of 0.10 g was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol and measured using an Ostwald viscometer at a temperature of 25 ° C.

  In addition, evaluation in an Example was performed with the following method.

(1) Evaluation of yarn-making property The yarn-making property was evaluated in four stages from the number of yarn breakage at a spinning time of 24 hours.
○○: No thread breakage ○: Thread breakage (1 to 2 times)
Δ: Thread breakage (3-5 times)
X: Many yarn breaks (more than 5 times).

(2) Evaluation of elaborate feeling The sensory evaluation of the fine feeling of the woven fabrics obtained by the methods described in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed based on tactile sensation (fineness of texture) and appearance (cleanness of the surface). Under the present circumstances, the textile of the comparative example 3 which is a conventional product was made into a standard, 4-step evaluation was performed on the following references | standards, and the evaluation result of 10 panelists was averaged and determined.
○○: Extremely sophisticated
○: Somewhat elaborate,
Δ: Texture equivalent to standard fabric,
X: There is no fine feeling (the texture is rough and the surface is not messy).

(3) Evaluation of texture The texture of the woven fabrics obtained by the methods described in Examples and Comparative Examples was subjected to sensory evaluation by tactile sensation. Under the present circumstances, the textile of the comparative example 3 which is a conventional product was made into a standard, 4-step evaluation was performed on the following references | standards, and the evaluation result of 10 panelists was averaged and determined.
○○: Extremely good texture,
○: Slightly good texture,
Δ: Texture equivalent to standard fabric,
X: Bad texture.

[Example 1]
After transesterification was carried out while distilling methanol at 140 ° C to 230 ° C using tetrabutyl titanate as a catalyst in 19.4 kg of dimethylterephthalic acid and 15.2 kg of 1,3-propanediol, the temperature was kept constant at 250 ° C. Polymerization was conducted for 3.5 hours under the above conditions to obtain polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.1.

  Using polytrimethylene terephthalate obtained by the above production method as an island component, using poly-L-lactic acid with an optical purity of 98.0% as a sea component, at a composite ratio of sea / island = 20/80 (weight ratio), A sea-island type compound base having 70 islands and 12 holes was wound with a compound spinning machine at a spinning temperature of 250 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min. Subsequently, the undrawn yarn is drawn using a normal hot roll-hot roll drawing machine at a drawing temperature of 80 ° C. and a heat setting temperature of 120 ° C. so that the drawn yarn has an elongation of 35%. And a 56 dtex-12 fil drawn yarn was obtained. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties of the obtained drawn yarn.

  The drawn yarn obtained by the above method is twisted using a Murata Machine MACH33H false twisting machine (twisting part heater is contact type, secondary set heater is non-contact type, processing mechanism is belt nip type). A false twisting process was performed at a partial heater temperature of 100 ° C., a processing speed of 300 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.05, and a false twist number of 3150 T / m to obtain a processed yarn of 54 dtex-12 fil. The yarn temperature at the outlet of the twisted part heater was 98 ° C to 100 ° C. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties of the obtained false twisted yarn.

    The obtained false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a plain fabric having a warp density of 145 (lines / 2.54 cm) and a weft density of 95 (lines / 2.54 cm), and scoured with hot water at 95 ° C. After that, dry heat set at 160 ° C, and further reduce the weight with 3% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 80 ° C until the sea components are completely dissolved, then dye at 130 ° C wet heat and finish set at 160 ° C dry heat It was. Table 1 shows the results of evaluation of the obtained fabric characteristics. In Example 1, both the yarn-making property and false twisting property were good, and the obtained woven fabric was excellent in fineness, soft, and good with appropriate swelling and stretch.

[Example 2]
Example 2 is a composite spinning machine using the same polymer as in Example 1, with a sea / island = 30/70 (weight ratio) composite ratio and a sea-island type composite die having 8 islands and 36 holes. Was discharged from the die at a spinning temperature of 250 ° C., and after being attached to the oil agent, it was taken up by a hot roller at 2700 m / min, and wound around a package at a speed of 4072 m / min via a hot roller and a godet roller without winding up once. . Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties of the obtained 64 dtex-36 fil drawn / false twisted yarn.

  Next, the obtained drawn yarn was false twisted, woven and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and the woven fabric. The fabric obtained in Example 2 was excellent in exquisiteness and good in softness, swelling and stretch.

[Comparative Example 1]
In Comparative Example 1, the same polytrimethylene terephthalate as in Example 1 was used, and a base having a hole number of 250 was wound with a normal spinning machine at a spinning temperature of 250 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min. False twisting, weaving, and processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and the woven fabric. In Comparative Example 1, the yarn-making property and false twisting property were very poor, and yarn breakage and fluff frequently occurred. Further, in the drawn yarn and false twisted yarn, delayed shrinkage of the fiber occurred and the quality was poor. The resulting woven fabric had a rough surface and lacked a sense of precision.

[Comparative Example 2]
In Comparative Example 2, polytrimethylene terephthalate similar to Example 1 was used as the island component, and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.56 copolymerized with 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was used as the sea component. The same undrawn yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 by winding it at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min using the same base and compound spinning machine as in Example 1. Using the same method as in Example 1, the obtained drawn yarn was false twisted at a twisted part heater temperature of 180 ° C., a processing speed of 300 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.05, and a false twist number of 3150 T / m. Weaving in the same manner as in Example 1 and scouring with hot water at 95 ° C., then performing dry heat setting at 160 ° C., and after acid treatment for 30 minutes at 130 ° C. in hot water at an acetic acid 1 (g / l) concentration, Neutralized / washed with water, treated again in 80 ° C warm water with a sodium hydroxide concentration of 30 (g / l) for 50 minutes to elute the copolyester of the sea component, and dyed and finished by the method of Example 1 A woven fabric was obtained. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and false twisted yarn and the woven fabric. In Comparative Example 2, the yarn-making property was poor and yarn breakage occurred frequently. Further, the obtained woven fabric was rough and lacked a sense of precision.

[Comparative Example 3]
In Comparative Example 3, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.55 was used as the island component, and copolymer polyethylene terephthalate similar to that in Comparative Example 2 was used as the sea component. Got. A false twisted yarn was also prepared in the same manner as in Comparative Example 2. The obtained false twisted yarn was woven and weight-reduced in the same manner as in Comparative Example 2 to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and false twisted yarn and the woven fabric. In Comparative Example 3, the color developability was poor and the texture was bulky.

[Example 3, Comparative Example 4]
The fineness configuration, the sea / island composite ratio, and the number of islands were changed as shown in Table 2, and drawn yarns and false twisting were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Table 2 shows the physical properties of the drawn yarns and false twisted yarns and the results of fabric evaluation.

  In Example 3, the yarn-making property was good, and the obtained fabric had a fine feeling, a soft feeling, and an appropriate swelling, but was good.

  On the other hand, in Comparative Example 4, since the sea component composite ratio is as high as 60%, the yarn-making property is slightly inferior, and the voids between the fibers are largely formed by removing the sea component, and misalignment is likely to occur. Only touch fabric was obtained.

[Comparative Example 5]
In Comparative Example 5, the same polytrimethylene terephthalate as in Example 1 was used, and spinning and drawing were performed using a die having 48 holes in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, and an 84 dtex-48 fil drawn yarn was obtained. Obtained. Table 2 shows the yarn physical properties of the obtained drawn yarn. Using the same method as in Example 1, the obtained drawn yarn was false twisted at a twisted part heater temperature of 180 ° C., a processing speed of 300 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.05, and a false twist number of 3150 T / m. . Table 2 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and the woven fabric. In Comparative Example 5, there was no problem with the yarn-making property and false twisting property, but the resulting woven fabric was a product with insufficient soft feeling.

[Comparative Example 6]
Using the drawn yarn of Example 2, false twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 2 at a twisted portion heater temperature of 160 ° C., but the fibers were completely fused on the heater, and yarn breakage occurred frequently. A processed yarn sample could not be obtained.

[Example 4]
Using the drawn yarn of Example 2, false twisting, weaving, and weight reduction were performed in the same manner as in Example 2 at a false twisting temperature of 130 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and false twisted yarn and the woven fabric. In Example 4, in false twisting, a fusion spot by a heater was found in the yarn, but the fusion could be eliminated by elution. The fabric obtained in Example 4 was excellent in fineness and had a good soft feeling, but was inferior in swelling and stretch as compared with the fabrics of other Examples.

[Example 5]
Using the drawn yarn of Example 2, false twisting, weaving, and weight reduction processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 2 at a false twisting temperature of 80 ° C. and a false twist number of 3150 T / m to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the properties of the drawn yarn and false twisted yarn and the woven fabric. The fabric obtained in Example 5 was a fabric having excellent exquisiteness and softness and having good swell and stretch properties.

[Example 6]
After esterification using terephthalic acid / ethylene glycol and isophthalic acid / ethylene glycol slurry, an ethylene glycol solution of 2,2bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane is added, and the usual method To obtain a chip of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate containing 7.1 mol% of isophthalic acid and 4.4 mol% of 2,2bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane. This chip was extruded at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C., taken up at a speed of 3,850 m / min, and then stretched 1.53 times to obtain a high shrinkage yarn (56 dtex-24 fil, strength 4.0 cN / dtex, elongation 41. 3% and a boiling water shrinkage of 19.9%).

  In Example 6, the false twisted yarn in Example 1 was subsequently mixed with a high shrinkage yarn and air mixed fiber with a yarn length difference of 3% to obtain a false twisted mixed yarn of 110 dtex.

  In order to compare the fabric using the false twisted yarn obtained by the method of Example 6 with the woven fabric of the above example, the warp and weft were used in a warp density of 103 (line / 2.54 cm) and a horizontal density of 68 (line /2.54 cm) plain fabric was used for weaving. The obtained woven fabric was finished by the method of Example 1 and evaluated. The fabric of Example 6 was excellent in exquisiteness, softness, and good swell.

[Example 7]
In Example 7, after performing false twisting in Example 2, using a non-contact type secondary set heater, secondary set heater processing at 130 ° C. and 12% overfeed is performed to perform false twisting yarn. Subsequently, the false twisted yarn and the high shrinkage yarn in Example 6 were mixed by air mixing in the same manner as in Example 6 to obtain a 123 dtex false twisted mixed yarn.

  A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 98 (line / 2.54 cm) and a horizontal density of 64 (line / 2.54 cm) was used for weaving and weft. The obtained woven fabric was finished by the method of Example 1 and evaluated. The fabric of Example 7 was excellent in exquisiteness, softness, and good swell.

[Example 8]
Homopolytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.40 and homopolyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 were separately melted and mixed from a composite spinneret with 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. (Weight%) The product was discharged at 50:50 and taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to obtain a 185 dtex, 24-filament side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine, the hot roll temperature is 75 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 170 ° C., and the draw ratio is 3.3 times. Winding, 56 dtex, 24 filament polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn was obtained. The polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn had a strength of 3.8 cN / dtex, an elongation of 25%, and a boiling water shrinkage of 17.4%.

  In Example 8, after the drawn yarn and the polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn used in Example 2 were mixed by air entanglement, the false twist temperature was 110 ° C. and the false twist number was 2490 T / m. False twisting was performed in the same manner to obtain false twisted mixed yarn.

  A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 115 (lines / 2.54 cm) and a horizontal density of 75 (lines / 2.54 cm) was used for weft and weft. The obtained woven fabric was finished by the method of Example 1 and evaluated. The fabric of Example 8 was a good one having a fine feeling, a soft feeling, and a large swell feeling.

Claims (8)

An ultrafine false twisted yarn comprising a yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and having a dry heat shrinkage (TWA) and a single yarn fineness (FDT) satisfying the following formulas at the same time.
(1) 8 ≦ TWA (%) ≦ 25
(2) 0.01 ≦ FDT (dtex) ≦ 1 The ultrafine false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the expansion / contraction rate (CR) satisfies the following formula.
3 ≦ CR (%) ≦ 30 The island component is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, the sea component is composed of polylactic acid, and the sea island type composite yarn having a composite ratio of sea component / island component of 10/90 to 50/50 is obtained by reducing the alkali. The extra fine false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that The ultrafine false twisted yarn according to claim 3, wherein the hot water shrinkage (SWA) and the dry heat shrinkage (TWA) satisfy TWA / SWA ≧ 1. A composite mixed yarn comprising at least a portion of the ultrafine false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4. The composite blended yarn according to claim 5, wherein the ultra fine false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is arranged on the outer layer side. A woven or knitted fabric using the ultra fine false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or the mixed yarn according to claim 5 or 6. The method for producing an ultrafine false twisted yarn according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the sea-island type composite yarn is false twisted under a condition that the yarn temperature immediately after the exit of the twisted portion heater is 80 ° C or higher and 150 ° C or lower.