JP2004307378A - Hair cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to protect hair from physical and chemical stimuli and to suppress the occurrence of split ends and cut hairs, and to give the hair a good feel such as moist feeling, smoothness, and suppleness, and to improve the unity. Further, the present invention provides a hair cosmetic capable of imparting elasticity to hair weakened by aging or the like.
Kind Code: A1 A type containing a (A) amphipathic amide lipid, (B) an oil agent selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and animal and vegetable oils, and (C) a surfactant, which is applied to hair and not washed away. Aqueous hair cosmetics.
[Selection diagram] None

Description

【００１３】
〔式中、Ｒ^１は水酸基及び／又はアルコキシ基が置換していてもよい炭素数１〜１２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ^２は炭素数１〜５の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示し、Ｒ^３は炭素数１〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価の炭化水素基を示す。〕
【００１４】
一般式（１）において、Ｒ^１としては、水酸基及び炭素数１〜６のアルコキシ基から選ばれる１〜３個が置換していてもよい炭素数１〜１２の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基が好ましい。なかでも、無置換の炭素数１〜１２のアルキル基、又は水酸基が１〜２個、炭素数１〜６のアルコキシ基が１個、若しくは水酸基と炭素数１〜６のアルコキシ基が１個ずつ置換した、炭素数２〜１２のアルキル基がより好ましい。具体的には、メチル基、エチル基、プロピル基、ブチル基、ヘキシル基、ドデシル基、２−メチルプロピル基、２−エチルヘキシル基、２−ヒドロキシエチル基、９−ヒドロキシノニル基、２，３−ジヒドロキシプロピル基、２−メトキシエチル基、２−ヒドロキシ−３−メトキシプロピル基、９−メトキシノニル基等が挙げられ、なかでも２−ヒドロキシエチル基、メチル基、ドデシル基、２−メトキシエチル基が好ましい。
【００１５】
一般式（１）において、Ｒ^２としては、炭素数２〜５の、特に炭素数２〜３の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基が好ましい。具体的には、エチレン基、トリメチレン基、テトラメチレン基、ペンタメチレン基、１−メチルエチレン基、２−メチルエチレン基、１−メチルトリメチレン基、２−メチルトリメチレン基、１，１−ジメチルエチレン基、２−エチルトリメチレン基等が挙げられ、なかでもエチレン基及びトリメチレン基が好ましい。
【００１６】
一般式（１）において、Ｒ^３としては、炭素数２〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の二価炭化水素基が好ましく、特に炭素数１１〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基、及び１〜４個の二重結合を有するアルケニレン基が好ましい。具体的には、エチレン基、トリメチレン基、テトラメチレン基、ヘキサメチレン基、ヘプタメチレン基、オクタメチレン基、デカメチレン基、ウンデカメチレン基、ドデカメチレン基、トリデカメチレン基、テトラデカメチレン基、ヘキサデカメチレン基、オクタデカメチレン基、１−メチルエチレン基、２−エチルトリメチレン基、１−メチルヘプタメチレン基、２−メチルヘプタメチレン基、１−ブチルヘキサメチレン基、２−メチル−５−エチルヘプタメチレン基、２，３，６−トリメチルヘプタメチレン基、６−エチルデカメチレン基、７−メチルテトラデカメチレン基、７−エチルヘキサデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、８，１１−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、７，１０−ジメチル−７−エチルヘキサデカメチレン基、１−オクタデシルエチレン基、エテニレン基、１−オクタデセニルエチレン基、７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、７−エテニル−９−ヘキサデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、８，１１−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基等が挙げられる。このうち、７，１２−ジメチルオクタデカメチレン基、７，１２−ジメチル−７，１１−オクタデカジエニレン基、オクタデカメチレン基、ウンデカメチレン基、トリデカメチレン基が特に好ましい。
【００１７】
特に好ましいジアミド化合物（１）は、Ｒ^１、Ｒ^２及びＲ^３として、それぞれ上で挙げた好ましい基を組み合わせた化合物であり、その具体例として、以下の化合物が挙げられる。
【００１８】
【化７】

【００１９】
【化８】

【００２０】
（Ａ−２）一般式（２）で示されるセラミド類
【００２１】
【化９】

【００２２】
〔式中、Ｒ^４はヒドロキシ基、オキソ基又はアミノ基が置換してもよい炭素数４〜３０の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｚはメチレン基、メチン基又は酸素原子を示し、破線はπ結合の存在又は不存在を示し、Ｘ^１は水素原子、アセチル基又はグリセリル基を示すか、又は隣接する酸素原子とともにオキソ基を形成し、Ｘ^２、Ｘ^３及びＸ^４は各々独立して水素原子、ヒドロキシ基又はアセトキシ基を示し（但し、Ｚがメチン基であるとき、Ｘ^２とＸ^３は一方が水素原子で他方は存在せず、−Ｏ−Ｘ^１がオキソ基であるとき、Ｘ^１は存在しない）、Ｒ^５及びＲ^６は各々独立して水素原子、ヒドロキシ基、ヒドロキシメチル基又はアセトキシメチル基を示し、Ｒ^７はヒドロキシ基又はアミノ基が置換してもよい炭素数５〜３５の直鎖、分岐鎖若しくは環状の飽和炭化水素基、又は該炭化水素基のω位にヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数８〜２２の直鎖、分岐若しくは環状の飽和若しくは不飽和の脂肪酸がエステル結合した基を示し、Ｒ^８は水素原子を示すか、ヒドロキシ基、ヒドロキシアルコキシ基、アルコキシ基及びアセトキシ基から選ばれる置換基を有してもよい総炭素数１〜８の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示す。〕
【００２３】
一般式（２）において、Ｒ^４としては、ヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数７〜２２の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基が好ましい。Ｘ^１としては、水素原子、グリセリル基が好ましい。Ｘ^２、Ｘ^３及びＸ^４としては、その０〜１個がヒドロキシ基であり、残余が水素原子であるのが好ましい。Ｒ^５及びＲ^６としては、一方が水素原子又はヒドロキシメチル基であり、他方が水素原子であるのが好ましい。Ｒ^７における飽和炭化水素基のω位にエステル結合若しくはアミド結合してもよい脂肪酸としては、イソステアリン酸、１２−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、リノール酸が好ましい。Ｒ^８としては、水素原子、あるいはヒドロキシ基、ヒドロキシアルコキシ基及びアルコキシ基から選ばれる１〜３個が置換してもよい総炭素数１〜８の炭化水素基が好ましい。
【００２４】
好ましいセラミド類（２）として次の（２ａ）及び（２ｂ）が挙げられる。
【００２５】
（２ａ）一般式（２ａ）で表される天然セラミド又は天然型セラミド類、及びその誘導体（以下、「天然型セラミド類」と記載する）：
【００２６】
【化１０】

【００２７】
〔式中、Ｒ^４ａはヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数７〜１９の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｚ^１はメチレン基又はメチン基を示し、破線はπ結合の存在又は不存在を示し、Ｘ^１ａは水素原子を示すか、又は隣接する酸素原子とともにオキソ基を形成し、Ｘ^２ａ、Ｘ^３ａ及びＸ^４ａは各々独立して水素原子、ヒドロキシ基又はアセトキシ基を示し（但し、Ｚ^１がメチン基であるとき、Ｘ^２ａとＸ^３ａは一方が水素原子で他方は存在せず、−Ｏ−Ｘ^１ａがオキソ基であるとき、Ｘ^４ａは存在しない）、Ｒ^５ａはヒドロキシメチル基又はアセトキシメチル基を示し、Ｒ^７ａはヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数５〜３０の直鎖、分岐鎖若しくは環状の飽和炭化水素基、又は該アルキル基のω末端にヒドロキシ基が置換していてもよい炭素数８〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の脂肪酸がエステル結合した基を示し、Ｒ^８ａは水素原子又は炭素数１〜４のアルキル基を示す。〕
【００２８】
好ましくは、Ｒ^４ａが炭素数７〜１９、更に好ましくは炭素数１３〜１５の直鎖アルキル基；Ｚ^１がメチン基でＸ^２ａとＸ^３ａの一方が水素原子；Ｒ^７ａが炭素数９〜２７のヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい直鎖アルキル基である化合物が挙げられる。また、Ｘ^１ａは水素原子であるか、酸素原子とともにオキソ基を形成するのが好ましい。
特に、Ｒ^７ａとしては、トリコシル基、１−ヒドロキシペンタデシル基、１−ヒドロキシトリコシル基、ヘプタデシル基、１−ヒドロキシウンデシル基、ω位にリノール酸がエステル結合したノナコシル基が好ましい。
【００２９】
天然型セラミド類の具体例としては、以下に構造を示すような、スフィンゴシン、ジヒドロスフィンゴシン、フィトスフィンゴシン又はスフィンガジエニンがアミド化されたセラミドＴｙｐｅ１〜７（例えば、Ｊ． Ｌｉｐｉｄ Ｒｅｓ．， ２４：７５９（１９８３） の図２、及びＪ． Ｌｉｐｉｄ． Ｒｅｓ．， ３５：２０６９ （１９９４） の図４記載のブタ及びヒトのセラミド類）が挙げられる。
【００３０】
【化１１】

【００３１】
更にこれらのＮ−アルキル体（例えばＮ−メチル体）も挙げられる。これらは天然からの抽出物及び合成物のいずれでもよく、市販のものを用いることができる。
【００３２】
（２ｂ）次の一般式（２ｂ）で表される擬似型セラミド類：
【００３３】
【化１２】

【００３４】
〔式中、Ｒ^４ｂはヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数１０〜２２の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し、Ｘ^１ｂは水素原子、アセチル基又はグリセリル基を示し、Ｒ^７ｂはヒドロキシル基又はアミノ基が置換していてもよい炭素数５〜２２の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基であるか、又は該炭化水素基のω末端にヒドロキシル基が置換していてもよい炭素数８〜２２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の脂肪酸がエステル結合した基を示し、Ｒ^８ｂは水素原子を示すか、ヒドロキシ基、ヒドロキシアルコキシ基、アルコキシ基又はアセトキシ基が置換していてもよい総炭素数１〜８のアルキル基を示す。〕
【００３５】
Ｒ^７ｂとしては、特にノニル基、トリデシル基、ペンタデシル基、ω位にリノール酸がエステル結合したウンデシル基、ω位にリノール酸がエステル結合したペンタデシル基、ω位に１２−ヒドロキシステアリン酸がエステル結合したペンタデシル基、ω位にメチル分岐イソステアリン酸がアミド結合したウンデシル基が好ましい。Ｒ^８ｂのヒドロキシアルコキシ基又はアルコキシ基としては炭素数１〜８のものが好ましい。
【００３６】
疑似型セラミド類（２ｂ）としては、Ｒ^４ｂがヘキサデシル基、Ｘ^１ｂが水素原子、Ｒ^７ｂがペンタデシル基、Ｒ^８ｂがヒドロキシエチル基のもの；Ｒ^４ｂがヘキサデシル基、Ｘ^１ｂが水素原子、Ｒ^７ｂがノニル基、Ｒ^８ｂがヒドロキシエチル基のもの；又はＲ^４ｂがヘキサデシル基、Ｘ^１ｂがグリセリル基、Ｒ^７ｂがトリデシル基、Ｒ^８ｂが３−メトキシプロピル基のものが好ましく、一般式（２ｂ）のＲ^４ｂがヘキサデシル基、Ｘ^１ｂが水素原子、Ｒ^７ｂがペンタデシル基、Ｒ^８ｂがヒドロキシエチル基のものが特に好ましい。好ましい具体例として、以下のものが挙げられる。
【００３７】
【化１３】

【００３８】
（Ａ−３）一般式（３）で表されるジアミド化合物
【００３９】
【化１４】

【００４０】
〔式中、Ｒ^９はヒドロキシ基が置換してもよい炭素数１０〜１８のアルキル基を示す。〕
【００４１】
化合物（３）の具体例として、以下の化合物が挙げられる。
【００４２】
【化１５】

【００４３】
（Ａ−４）一般式（４）で表されるアミド化合物
【００４４】
【化１６】

【００４５】
〔式中、Ｒ^１０は炭素数９〜３１の直鎖又は分岐鎖の、飽和又は不飽和の、水酸基が置換してもよいアルキル基、又は２−ドデセン−１−イルコハク酸の残基を示し、ｍは１〜３の整数を示し、Ｒ^１１及びＲ^１２は各々水素原子又は炭素数１〜４のアルキル基又はヒドロキシアルキル基を示し、Ｙは炭素数１０〜３２の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の水酸基が置換してもよいアルキル基、又は次式
【００４６】
【化１７】

【００４７】
（ｋ、ｉ及びｎは、各々１〜３の整数を示し、ｊは０又は１を示し、Ｒ^１３は炭素数９〜３１の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の水酸基が置換してもよいアルキル基を示す）で表される置換基を示す。〕
【００４８】
化合物（４）の具体例として、以下の化合物が挙げられる。
【００４９】
【化１８】

【００５０】
両親媒性アミド脂質は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、またその含有量は、毛髪へのしなやかさの付与、枝毛・切れ毛の発生抑制の点から、本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．００１〜２０重量％が好ましく、更には０．１〜２０重量％、特に０．５〜１５重量％が好ましい。
【００５１】
成分（Ｂ）の油剤は、炭化水素油、エステル油及び動植物油から選ばれる。炭化水素油としては、スクワレン、スクワラン、流動イソパラフィン、軽質流動イソパラフィン、重質流動イソパラフィン、α−オレフィンオリゴマー、流動パラフィン、シクロパラフィン、ワセリン（ペトロラタム）、パラフィンワックス、ミツロウ、キャンデリラロウ、綿ロウ、セレシンワックス、カルナウバロウ、鯨ロウ、モンタンロウ、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、モクロウ等が挙げられる。エステル油としては、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、乳酸セチル、モノステアリン酸プロピレングリコール、イソステアリン酸エチル、オレイン酸オレイル、２−エチルヘキサン酸ヘキサデシル、イソノナン酸イソノニル、イソノナン酸トリデシル、イソステアリン酸コレステリル等のエステル類等が挙げられる。動植物油としては、アボカド油、ツバキ油、ヒマワリ油、マカデミアナッツ油、トウモロコシ油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、ゴマ油、ヒマシ油、アマニ油、ホホバ油、ミンク油等が挙げられる。これら油剤は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができるが、なかでも、２５℃で液体の油剤を１種以上用いることが好ましく、更には、２５℃で液体の油剤と２５℃で固体又はペースト状の油剤とを組み合わせることが好ましい。２５℃で液体の油剤は、成分（Ａ）の溶解性を高め、場合によっては、結晶化を抑制し、毛髪への浸透をし易くするのに効果的である。このような液状油としては、炭化水素油である流動パラフィン、スクワラン等；エステル油であるパルミチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、イソノナン酸イソノニル等；植物油が挙げられ、これらのうち、極性油剤であるエステル油（特にパルミチン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸エチル）、植物油が好ましい。また、２５℃で固体又はペースト状の油剤としては、パラフィンワックス、イソステアリン酸コレステリル、ミツロウ、キャンデリラロウ、綿ロウ、セレシンワックス、カルナウバロウ、鯨ロウ、モンタンロウ、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、モクロウ、ワセリン等が挙げられ、特にキャンデリラロウ、カルナウバロウ、ワセリンが好ましい。これらは、毛髪の保水性を高めパサつきを抑えるとともに、毛髪の形を整えるためにも有効である。液状の油剤と固体状の油剤の比率は、２０：１〜１：２０が好ましく、更には１０：１〜１：１０、特に５：１〜１：５が好ましい。また、成分（Ａ）と成分（Ｂ）の比率は、１：３０〜１：１、特に１：１０〜１：２が好ましい。
【００５２】
成分（Ｂ）の油剤の含有量は、成分（Ａ）の浸透促進、髪の保湿性及び整髪性の点から、本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．１〜１０重量％が好ましく、更には０．５〜５重量％、特に１〜３重量％が好ましい。
【００５３】
成分（Ｃ）の界面活性剤は、成分（Ａ）及び（Ｂ）を可溶化又は乳化・分散するのに必要であり、これらを毛髪に吸着浸透させるために効果的である。界面活性剤としては、カチオン界面活性剤、非イオン界面活性剤、アニオン性界面活性剤が挙げられる。
【００５４】
カチオン界面活性剤としては、次の一般式（５）で表される化合物が挙げられる。
【００５５】
【化１９】

【００５６】
〔式中、Ｒは炭素数１２〜２８の脂肪族炭化水素基を示し、Ｘ⁻は陰イオンを示す。〕
【００５７】
一般式（５）において、Ｒは、炭素数１６〜２４、特に炭素数２２であるのが好ましく、また直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基、特に直鎖アルキル基が好ましい。陰イオンＸ⁻としては、塩化物イオン、臭化物イオン等のハロゲン化物イオン、メトサルフェートイオン、エトサルフェートイオン、メトフォスフェートイオン、エトフォスフェートイオン、メトカーボナートイオン等の有機陰イオン等が挙げられ、ハロゲン化物イオンが好ましく、特に塩化物イオンが好ましい。具体的には、塩化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化アラキルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ベヘニルトリメチルアンモニウム等が挙げられ、特に塗布時の滑り感、すすぎ時の滑らかさの点から塩化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウムが好ましい。
【００５８】
非イオン界面活性剤としては、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシアルキレンアルケニルエーテル、高級脂肪酸ショ糖エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、高級脂肪酸モノ又はジエタノールアミド、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビット脂肪酸エステル、アルキルポリグリコシド、アルキルアミンオキサイド、アルキルアミドアミンオキサイド等が挙げられる。これらのうち、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビット脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油が好ましく、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテルが特に好ましい。
【００５９】
アニオン界面活性剤としては、アルキル（又はアルケニル）硫酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル（又はアルケニル）エーテル硫酸塩、アルカンスルホン酸塩、オレフィンスルホン酸塩、アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩、アルキル（又はアルケニル）スルホコハク酸塩、ジアルキル（又はジアルケニル）スルホコハク酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル（又はアルケニル）スルホコハク酸塩、アルキル（又はアルケニル）エーテルカルボン酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル（又はアルケニル）エーテルカルボン酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル（又はアルケニル）エーテルリン酸塩、脂肪酸塩、Ｎ−アシルグルタミン酸塩、Ｎ−アシルタウリン酸塩、Ｎ−アシルメチルタウリン等が挙げられる。このなかで、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキル（又はアルケニル）エーテルリン酸塩、脂肪酸塩、Ｎ−アシルグルタミン酸塩、Ｎ−アシルタウリン酸塩、Ｎ−アシルメチルタウリン等が好ましい。
【００６０】
界面活性剤は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、またその含有量は、本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．１〜２０重量％が好ましく、更には０．５〜１０重量％、特に１〜８重量％が好ましい。
【００６１】
本発明の毛髪化粧料には、更にしっとり感向上、毛髪への塗布のし易さ及び系の安定性の点から、成分（Ｄ）として高級アルコールを含有させ乳化型の剤型にすることが好ましい。高級アルコールとしては、炭素数が１２〜３０、更に１２〜２４、特に１６〜２２直鎖又は分岐鎖の、飽和又は不飽和の脂肪族アルコールが挙げられる。
高級アルコールの好ましい具体例としては、セチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール、アラキルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール、２−オクチルラウリルアルコール、２−ヘキシルデシルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、カルナービルアルコール（テトラコサノール）等が挙げられ、特にセチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコールが好ましい。
【００６２】
高級アルコールは、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、またその含有量は、本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．１〜２０重量％が好ましく、更には０．５〜１０重量％、特に１〜８重量％が好ましい。
【００６３】
本発明の毛髪化粧料には、更に成分（Ａ）をより効果的に毛髪に浸透させ、効果、特に弾力付与、まとまりの向上の点から、成分（Ｅ）として、芳香族アルコール、Ｎ−アルキルピロリドン、アルキレンカーボネート、ポリプロピレングリコール、ラクトン及び環状ケトンから選ばれる有機溶剤（特に２５℃で液体であるもの）を含有させることが好ましい。
【００６４】
成分（Ｅ）である有機溶剤のうち、芳香族アルコールとしては、ベンジルアルコール、シンナミルアルコール、フェネチルアルコール、ｐ−アニシルアルコール、ｐ−メチルベンジルアルコール、フェノキシエタノール、２−ベンジルオキシエタノール等が挙げられる。Ｎ−アルキルピロリドンとしては、Ｎ−メチルピロリドン、Ｎ−オクチルピロリドン、Ｎ−ラウリルピロリドン等が挙げられる。アルキレンカーボネートとしては、エチレンカーボネート、プロピレンカーボネート等が挙げられる。ポリプロピレングリコールとしては、分子量２００〜１０００のものが好ましい。
ラクトンとしては、γ−ブチロラクトン、γ−カプロラクトン、γ−バレロラクトン、δ−バレロラクトン、δ−カプロラクトン、δ−ヘプタノラクトン等が挙げられるが、ラクトンの安定性の点から、γ−ラクトン、特にγ−ブチロラクトン、γ−カプロラクトンが好ましい。環状ケトンとしては、シクロペンタノン、シクロヘキサノン、シクロヘプタノン、４−メチルシクロヘプタノン等が挙げられる。特に好ましい成分（Ｅ）として、ベンジルアルコール、ベンジルオキシエタノール、プロピレンカーボネート及びプロピレングリコール（分子量４００）が挙げられる。
【００６５】
有機溶剤は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、またその含有量は、使用感、毛髪のツヤと改質効果の促進（弾性の向上、耐湿性の向上等）の点から、本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．１〜４０重量％が好ましく、更には０．２〜１０重量％、特に０．５〜５重量％が好ましい。
【００６６】
本発明の毛髪化粧料には、乾燥後の仕上がり向上のため、更にシリコーン類等のコンディショニング成分を更に配合することができる。シリコーン類としては、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、アミノ変性シリコーン、ポリエーテル変性シリコーン、エポキシ変性シリコーン、フッ素変性シリコーン、環状シリコーン、アルキル変性シリコーン、オキサゾリン変性シリコーン等が挙げられ、なかでもジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、アミノ変性シリコーン、ポリエーテル変性シリコーン、オキサゾリン変性シリコーン、環状シリコーンが好ましい。シリコーン類は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、その含有量は本発明の毛髪化粧料中の０．０１〜２０重量％が好ましく、更には０．０５〜１０重量％、特に０．１〜５重量％が好ましい。
【００６７】
本発明の毛髪化粧料には、毛髪を膨潤させ、各成分の吸着、浸透を容易にするため、有機酸又は無機酸を含有させることができる。有機酸としては、モノカルボン酸、ジカルボン酸、トリカルボン酸が挙げられ、またヒドロキシカルボン酸でもよい。モノカルボン酸としては、酢酸、乳酸、グリコール酸等が挙げられ、ジカルボン酸としては、リンゴ酸、マロン酸、コハク酸、グルタル酸、アジピン酸、マレイン酸、フマル酸、フタル酸等が挙げられ、トリカルボン酸としては、クエン酸が挙げられる。また、ヒドロキシカルボン酸としては、グリコール酸、ヒドロキシアクリル酸、オキシ酪酸、グリセリン酸、クエン酸等が挙げられる。
無機酸としては、リン酸、硫酸、硝酸等が挙げられる。これらのうち、乳酸、リンゴ酸、コハク酸、マレイン酸が好ましい。有機酸及び無機酸は、単独で又は２種以上を組み合わせて用いることができ、本発明の毛髪化粧料中に０．００１〜１０重量％含有させることができる。
【００６８】
本発明の毛髪化粧料のｐＨは特に限定されず、ｐＨ１〜７の範囲であれば問題なく使用できるが、特に毛髪のつや向上、毛髪のまとまり性向上の面から、低ｐＨ領域において使用することが好ましく、水で２０重量倍に希釈したときの２５℃におけるｐＨが、１．５〜４．５、更に２．５〜４．５、特に３〜４．２の範囲であることが好ましい。ｐＨの調整には、前記各酸成分又はそれ以外の酸を使用することができるほか、水酸化ナトリウム、有機アミン等の無機、有機の塩基性物質が使用される。
【００６９】
本発明の毛髪化粧料には、上記成分以外に、コレステロール及びその誘導体、架橋型カルボン酸／カルボン酸エステル共重合体、架橋型アクリル酸／アクリル酸エステル共重合体、アクリルアミド／ブタンスルホン酸アクリルアミド共重合体等の高分子乳化剤；グリセリン、ソルビトール等の多価アルコール；保湿剤；エチレンジアミン四酢酸（ＥＤＴＡ）等のキレート剤；ビタミン等の薬剤；アミノ酸及びその誘導体；動植物由来の抽出エキス；紫外線吸収剤；パール化剤；防腐剤；殺菌剤；抗炎症剤；抗フケ剤；ｐＨ調整剤；色素；香料などを、目的に応じて配合することができる。
【００７０】
本発明の毛髪化粧料は、「水性」、すなわち媒体として水又は水と低級アルコールを用いたものであり、その形態は、液状、ゲル状、ペースト状等適宜選択できるが、液状が好ましい。
【００７１】
本発明の毛髪化粧料は、髪に塗布して洗い流さないタイプのものであり、例えばヘアスタイリング剤、ヘアコンディショニング剤等として用いるのが好ましい。剤型としては、ポンプスプレー、エアゾールスプレー、ポンプフォーム、エアゾールフォーム、ジェル、ローション等が挙げられる。
【００７２】
【実施例】
以下の実施例及び比較例で使用した両親媒性アミド脂質は、以下の化合物である。
【００７３】
【化２０】

【００７４】
実施例１〜６及び比較例１〜４
表１（透明系）及び表２（乳化系）に示す組成のポンプタイプのヘアコンディショニング剤を調製し、枝毛・切れ毛抑制効果、感触、まとまりについて評価を行った。
【００７５】
（評価方法）
・評価毛束
パーマ、カラーなどの化学処理を行っていない日本人女性毛で、長さ２５ｃｍ、毛髪重さ６ｇの板状毛束（毛先の部分はカットして切り揃えた）を作り、ブリーチ処理（花王社，ラビナス・カラーアピール・イナズマブリーチ使用）を２回行い、評価毛束とした。
【００７６】
・ヘアコンディショニング剤による処理
評価毛束をシャンプー（花王社，ラビナスアドバンスシャイニークリスタルシャンプー）で洗髪し、タオルドライの後、ヘアコンディショニング剤０．６ｇを均一に塗布し、櫛で十分なじませた後、７０℃の温風で１０分間乾燥させた。この処理を計７回繰り返した。
【００７７】
・枝毛、切れ毛の発生抑制効果の評価方法
上記処理を行った毛束を、２５℃、２５％ＲＨの環境に２４時間放置後、同環境中で毛束をモーターに連動したナイロン製ブラシでブラッシングした。ブラッシング速度は２５０ｒｐｍで６０分間である。その後、光学顕微鏡で枝毛、切れ毛の数をカウントし、以下の評価基準で評価した。
◎：枝毛、切れ毛の増加が全く認められない。
○：枝毛、切れ毛の増加がほとんど認められない。
△：枝毛、切れ毛の増加がやや認められる。
×：枝毛、切れ毛の増加が顕著に認められる。
【００７８】
・感触、まとまりの評価方法
上記処理を行った毛束について、専門パネラー５名により、次の基準に従って官能評価を行い、評価点の合計値を示した。
【００７９】
しっとり感
４：しっとり
３：ややしっとり
２：ややしっとりではない
１：しっとりではない
【００８０】
滑らかさ
４：滑らか
３：やや滑らか
２：やや滑らかではない
１：滑らかではない
【００８１】
弾力
４：弾力がある
３：やや弾力がある
２：やや弾力がない
１：弾力がない
【００８２】
まとまり
４：まとまる
３：ややまとまる
２：ややまとまらない
１：まとまらない
【００８３】
【表１】

【００８４】
【表２】

【００８５】
実施例７

【００８６】
実施例７の剤をポンプ容器に入れ、以下のパネラーに使用させた。
（１） ヘアカラーの繰り返しで髪が非常にパサつき、毛先の枝毛やまとまらないことに悩む女性：
風呂あがりの洗髪後のタオルドライした髪に塗布し、ブラシでなじませた後、ドライヤー乾燥という使い方とした。このような方法で、５日間使用させたところ、しっとりする、髪がきれいにまとまる、毛先のはね、浮毛が無くなる、つやが出る、滑らかな感触といった効果が見られた。更に約１ヶ月連用させたところ、枝毛や切れ毛ができにくくなる効果がはっきり実感された。更に１ヶ月連用した後、ヘアカラーを施術したところ、以前にヘアカラーした時と異なり、髪がパサついたり、指通りが悪くなったりせず、カラー処理でも髪が傷み難い、という効果が実感された。
【００８７】
（２） 加齢とヘアカラーで髪にハリ・コシが無く、ボリュームが無いことに悩む女性：
（１）と同様の方法で、５日間使用させたところ、髪にハリ・コシが出る、ボリュームが出てふんわりする、つやが出るといった効果が見られた。また、約２ヶ月間連用した後、ヘアカラーを施術したところ、以前は髪が弱ってくたっとしたが、今回は髪がしっかりしてハリがある、という効果が実感された。
【００８８】
実施例８（乳化クリーム）

【００８９】
実施例９（乳化クリーム）

【００９０】
【発明の効果】
本発明の毛髪化粧料は、物理的・化学的刺激から毛髪を保護して枝毛、切れ毛の発生を抑制するとともに、毛髪にしっとり感、滑らかさ、しなやかさ等の良好な感触を賦与し、まとまりを向上させ、更には加齢等で弱った髪に弾力を賦与することができる。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention protects hair from physical and chemical stimuli, suppresses the occurrence of split ends and cut hairs, and imparts a good feeling to the hair, such as moist feeling, smoothness, and suppleness, and improves the unity. To give elasticity to hair weakened by aging etc. aqueous Related to hair cosmetics.
[0002]
[Prior art]
2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, with the trend of hair coloring and the like, hair damage has been strongly felt. That is, due to the effects of chemical treatment with hair color, perm, etc., and physical treatment such as blowing and brushing, the cuticles on the surface of the hair are peeled off, and the inside of the hair is hollowed out due to the outflow of lipids inside the hair. There are many worries, such as stickiness, poor finger passage, untidy hair, and loss of luster, and further damage leads to split ends and cut hairs. In addition, it is known that the amount of lipids in the hair decreases with aging, and if hair coloring is further applied, the hair becomes damp and firm and loses voluminousness.
[0003]
On the other hand, hair cosmetics which are currently mainly used for the purpose of imparting cohesiveness and preventing looseness include emulsifying systems such as a hair cream type containing a high melting point wax, a higher alcohol, a surfactant and the like. Products, or gels containing hair surface film polymers (set polymers) have become popular. However, such hair cosmetics can temporarily solve problems such as cohesiveness and dryness by adhering fats and oils or polymers to the hair surface, but have not substantially improved hair quality. There were problems such as lack of luster, stickiness, and stickiness and stiffness if attached too much to firmly organize.
[0004]
On the other hand, the protection and repair of damaged hair is generally performed in a form that complements components, structures, and their analogs that have been lost due to damage. It is considered that the interaction (affinity) between the protective base and the hair is important for the expression of the protective / repair function, and the method using sphingolipids or protein derivatives as the protective base is now widely used as a useful technique. .
[0005]
As an example of a hair cosmetic for imparting unity or the like and for protecting and restoring hair, there is a cosmetic composition for hair treatment containing a fixed fixing polymer and a ceramide type component (see Patent Document 1). However, this product did not sufficiently penetrate the ceramide-type component, and was not satisfactory in hair-protecting effect.
[0006]
[Patent Document 1]
Patent No. 3095420
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention protects hair from physical and chemical stimuli, suppresses the occurrence of split ends and cut hairs, and imparts a good feeling to the hair, such as moist feeling, smoothness, and suppleness, and improves the unity. It is another object of the present invention to provide a hair cosmetic which can impart elasticity to hair weakened by aging or the like.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have an excellent effect of preventing split ends and hair breakage by applying a non-washable type aqueous hair cosmetic containing an amphipathic amide lipid, a specific oil agent and a surfactant to hair. Further, they have also found that excellent effects are exhibited in feel, unity, elasticity, and the like.
[0009]
That is, the present invention provides the following components (A), (B) and (C)
(A) Amphiphilic amide lipid
(B) Oil agent selected from hydrocarbon oil, ester oil and animal and vegetable oil
(C) Surfactant
The present invention provides an aqueous hair cosmetic of the type which is applied to hair and does not wash away.
[0010]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The amphiphilic amide lipid of the component (A) has 1 to 2 amide groups, and a carbon chain bonded to a carbonyl group of the amide group may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, and an ester bond is formed on the main chain. An alkyl or alkylene group having 5 to 60 carbon atoms which may be contained, and a compound containing 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or an alkoxy group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms as a whole compound. The following (A-1) to (A-4) are specific examples of the amphiphilic amide lipid.
[0011]
(A-1) Diamide compound represented by general formula (1)
[0012]
Embedded image

[0013]
[Wherein, R ¹ Represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group and / or an alkoxy group; ² Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms; ³ Represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. ]
[0014]
In the general formula (1), R ¹ Is preferably a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms which may be substituted by 1 to 3 selected from a hydroxyl group and an alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Among them, an unsubstituted alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, or 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups, 1 alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or 1 hydroxyl group and 1 alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms A substituted alkyl group having 2 to 12 carbon atoms is more preferred. Specifically, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, hexyl, dodecyl, 2-methylpropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 9-hydroxynonyl, 2,3- Examples include a dihydroxypropyl group, a 2-methoxyethyl group, a 2-hydroxy-3-methoxypropyl group, and a 9-methoxynonyl group. Among them, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a methyl group, a dodecyl group, and a 2-methoxyethyl group are exemplified. preferable.
[0015]
In the general formula (1), R ² Is preferably a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 3 carbon atoms. Specifically, ethylene, trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, 1-methylethylene, 2-methylethylene, 1-methyltrimethylene, 2-methyltrimethylene, 1,1-dimethyl Examples thereof include an ethylene group and a 2-ethyltrimethylene group, and among them, an ethylene group and a trimethylene group are preferable.
[0016]
In the general formula (1), R ³ Is preferably a straight-chain or branched-chain divalent hydrocarbon group having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly having a straight-chain or branched-chain alkylene group having 11 to 22 carbon atoms, and having 1 to 4 double bonds Alkenylene groups are preferred. Specifically, ethylene, trimethylene, tetramethylene, hexamethylene, heptamethylene, octamethylene, decamethylene, undecamethylene, dodecamethylene, tridecamethylene, tetradecamethylene, hexadecane Decamethylene group, octadecamethylene group, 1-methylethylene group, 2-ethyltrimethylene group, 1-methylheptamethylene group, 2-methylheptamethylene group, 1-butylhexamethylene group, 2-methyl-5-ethyl Heptamethylene group, 2,3,6-trimethylheptamethylene group, 6-ethyldecamethylene group, 7-methyltetradecamethylene group, 7-ethylhexadecamethylene group, 7,12-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, 8, 11-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, 7,10-dimethyl-7-ethyl Sadecamethylene group, 1-octadecylethylene group, ethenylene group, 1-octadecenylethylene group, 7,11-octadecadienienylene group, 7-ethenyl-9-hexadecamethylene group, 7,12-dimethyl-7, Examples thereof include an 11-octadecadienylene group and an 8,11-dimethyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group. Among these, a 7,12-dimethyloctadecamethylene group, a 7,12-dimethyl-7,11-octadecadienylene group, an octadecamethylene group, an undecamethylene group, and a tridecamethylene group are particularly preferable.
[0017]
Particularly preferred diamide compound (1) is R ¹ , R ² And R ³ Are compounds obtained by combining the above-mentioned preferred groups, and specific examples thereof include the following compounds.
[0018]
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[0019]
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[0020]
(A-2) Ceramides represented by the general formula (2)
[0021]
Embedded image

[0022]
[Wherein, R ⁴ Represents a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group, an oxo group or an amino group, and Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom. , A broken line indicates the presence or absence of a π bond, and X ¹ Represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group, or forms an oxo group with an adjacent oxygen atom; ² , X ³ And X ⁴ Each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or an acetoxy group (provided that when Z is a methine group, ² And X ³ Is a hydrogen atom and the other is absent, -OX ¹ Is an oxo group, X ¹ Does not exist), R ⁵ And R ⁶ Each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; ⁷ Is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 35 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group or an amino group, or the number of carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group at the ω position of the hydrocarbon group. A group in which 8 to 22 linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are ester-bonded; ⁸ Represents a hydrogen atom or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxy group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group and an acetoxy group, and may be a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Represents a group. ]
[0023]
In the general formula (2), R ⁴ Is preferably a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group. X ¹ Is preferably a hydrogen atom or a glyceryl group. X ² , X ³ And X ⁴ It is preferable that 0 to 1 is a hydroxy group and the remainder is a hydrogen atom. R ⁵ And R ⁶ It is preferable that one is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxymethyl group, and the other is a hydrogen atom. R ⁷ As the fatty acid which may have an ester bond or an amide bond at the ω-position of the saturated hydrocarbon group in the above, isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and linoleic acid are preferable. R ⁸ Is preferably a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total, which may be substituted by 1 to 3 selected from a hydroxy group, a hydroxyalkoxy group and an alkoxy group.
[0024]
Preferred ceramides (2) include the following (2a) and (2b).
[0025]
(2a) Natural ceramide or natural ceramides represented by the general formula (2a), and derivatives thereof (hereinafter, referred to as “natural ceramides”):
[0026]
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[0027]
[Wherein, R ^4a Represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group; ¹ Represents a methylene group or a methine group; a dashed line represents the presence or absence of a π bond; ^1a Represents a hydrogen atom or forms an oxo group with an adjacent oxygen atom; ^2a , X ^3a And X ^4a Each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or an acetoxy group (provided that Z is ¹ Is a methine group, X ^2a And X ^3a Is a hydrogen atom and the other is absent, -OX ^1a Is an oxo group, X ^4a Does not exist), R ^5a Represents a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; ^7a Is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 30 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group, or 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group at the ω-terminal of the alkyl group. A group in which a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid is ester-bonded, ^8a Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ]
[0028]
Preferably, R ^4a Is a linear alkyl group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably 13 to 15 carbon atoms; ¹ Is a methine group and X ^2a And X ^3a Is a hydrogen atom; R ^7a Is a linear alkyl group which may be substituted by a hydroxy group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms. Also, X ^1a Is preferably a hydrogen atom or forms an oxo group together with an oxygen atom.
In particular, R ^7a Preferable examples are a tricosyl group, a 1-hydroxypentadecyl group, a 1-hydroxytricosyl group, a heptadecyl group, a 1-hydroxyundecyl group, and a nonacosyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded at the ω position.
[0029]
Specific examples of natural ceramides include ceramides Type 1 to 7 in which sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, or sphingdienin are amidated as shown in the following structures (for example, J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), and J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994), porcine and human ceramides described in FIG. 4).
[0030]
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[0031]
Furthermore, these N-alkyl forms (for example, N-methyl forms) are also included. These may be either natural extracts or synthetic ones, and commercially available ones can be used.
[0032]
(2b) pseudo-type ceramides represented by the following general formula (2b):
[0033]
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[0034]
[Wherein, R ^4b Represents a straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group; ^1b Represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; ^7b Is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group or an amino group, or a hydroxyl group at the ω-terminal of the hydrocarbon group. Represents a group in which a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted is ester-bonded, ^8b Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having a total carbon number of 1 to 8 which may be substituted by a hydroxy group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group. ]
[0035]
R ^7b Particularly, nonyl group, tridecyl group, pentadecyl group, undecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded at ω position, pentadecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded in ω position, and pentadecyl in which 12-hydroxystearic acid is ester-bonded in ω position An undecyl group in which a methyl-branched isostearic acid is amide-bonded at the ω position is preferred. R ^8b A hydroxyalkoxy group or an alkoxy group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms is preferable.
[0036]
As pseudo-ceramides (2b), R ^4b Is a hexadecyl group, X ^1b Is a hydrogen atom, R ^7b Is a pentadecyl group, R ^8b Is a hydroxyethyl group; R ^4b Is a hexadecyl group, X ^1b Is a hydrogen atom, R ^7b Is a nonyl group, R ^8b Is a hydroxyethyl group; or R ^4b Is a hexadecyl group, X ^1b Is a glyceryl group, R ^7b Is a tridecyl group, R ^8b Is preferably a 3-methoxypropyl group, and R of the general formula (2b) ^4b Is a hexadecyl group, X ^1b Is a hydrogen atom, R ^7b Is a pentadecyl group, R ^8b Is particularly preferably a hydroxyethyl group. Preferred specific examples include the following.
[0037]
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[0038]
(A-3) Diamide compound represented by general formula (3)
[0039]
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[0040]
[Wherein, R ⁹ Represents an alkyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group. ]
[0041]
Specific examples of the compound (3) include the following compounds.
[0042]
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[0043]
(A-4) Amide compound represented by general formula (4)
[0044]
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[0045]
[Wherein, R ¹⁰ Represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl group which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group having 9 to 31 carbon atoms, or a residue of 2-dodecene-1-ylsuccinic acid, and m represents 1 to 3 R represents an integer ¹¹ And R ¹² Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group, and Y represents an alkyl group which may be substituted by a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydroxyl group having 10 to 32 carbon atoms, or Next formula
[0046]
Embedded image

[0047]
(K, i and n each represent an integer of 1 to 3, j represents 0 or 1, and R ^Thirteen Represents an alkyl group which may be substituted by a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated hydroxyl group having 9 to 31 carbon atoms). ]
[0048]
Specific examples of the compound (4) include the following compounds.
[0049]
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[0050]
Amphiphilic amide lipids can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content of the amphiphilic amide lipids of the present invention is from the viewpoint of imparting suppleness to hair and suppressing generation of split ends and cut hairs. It is preferably 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight in the hair cosmetic.
[0051]
The oil agent of the component (B) is selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and animal and vegetable oils. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include squalene, squalane, liquid isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, α-olefin oligomer, liquid paraffin, cycloparaffin, petrolatum (petrolatum), paraffin wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, Examples include ceresin wax, carnauba wax, whale wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, and mokuro. As ester oils, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyl dodecyl myristate, hexyl laurate, cetyl lactate, propylene glycol monostearate, ethyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, Esters such as tridecyl isononanoate and cholesteryl isostearate. Animal and vegetable oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, mink oil and the like. These oils can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among them, it is preferable to use one or more oils which are liquid at 25 ° C, and furthermore, the oils which are liquid at 25 ° C and 25 ° C. It is preferable to combine with a solid or paste-like oil agent. Oils that are liquid at 25 ° C. are effective in increasing the solubility of component (A), in some cases suppressing crystallization and facilitating penetration into the hair. Such liquid oils include hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin and squalane; ester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and isononyl isononanoate; and vegetable oils. Of these, esters which are polar oil agents Oils (especially isopropyl palmitate, ethyl isostearate) and vegetable oils are preferred. Examples of the oily agent in a solid or paste form at 25 ° C. include paraffin wax, cholesteryl isostearate, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, whale wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, mokurou, vaseline and the like. Particularly preferred are candelilla wax, carnauba wax and petrolatum. These are effective in increasing the water retention of the hair and suppressing the fluffiness, and also for adjusting the shape of the hair. The ratio of the liquid oil agent to the solid oil agent is preferably from 20: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 5. Further, the ratio of component (A) to component (B) is preferably from 1:30 to 1: 1 and particularly preferably from 1:10 to 1: 2.
[0052]
The content of the oil agent of the component (B) is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, from the viewpoint of promoting penetration of the component (A), moisturizing properties of hair, and hair styling properties. 0.5-5% by weight, especially 1-3% by weight is preferred.
[0053]
The surfactant of the component (C) is necessary for solubilizing, emulsifying and dispersing the components (A) and (B), and is effective for adsorbing and penetrating them into the hair. Examples of the surfactant include a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, and an anionic surfactant.
[0054]
Examples of the cationic surfactant include a compound represented by the following general formula (5).
[0055]
Embedded image

[0056]
[Wherein, R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 12 to 28 carbon atoms; ⁻ Represents an anion. ]
[0057]
In the general formula (5), R preferably has 16 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly 22 carbon atoms, and is preferably a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, particularly preferably a linear alkyl group. Anion X ⁻ Examples thereof include chloride ions, halide ions such as bromide ions, organic anions such as methosulfate ions, ethosulfate ions, methophosphate ions, etophosphate ions, and methocarbonate ions, and halide ions. Is preferable, and chloride ion is particularly preferable. Specific examples include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, aralkyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, and the like.Especially, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is preferred.
[0058]
Examples of the nonionic surfactant include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, polyoxyalkylene alkenyl ether, higher fatty acid sucrose ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, higher fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan fatty acid ester, poly Oxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbite fatty acid ester, alkyl polyglycoside, alkylamine oxide, alkylamidoamine oxide and the like can be mentioned. Among these, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbite fatty acid ester, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil are preferable, and sorbitan fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether are particularly preferable.
[0059]
Examples of the anionic surfactant include alkyl (or alkenyl) sulfate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl (or alkenyl) ether sulfate, alkane sulfonate, olefin sulfonate, alkylbenzene sulfonate, alkyl (or alkenyl) sulfosuccinate. , Dialkyl (or dialkenyl) sulfosuccinate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl (or alkenyl) sulfosuccinate, alkyl (or alkenyl) ether carboxylate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl (or alkenyl) ether carboxylate, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ( Or alkenyl) ether phosphate, fatty acid salt, N-acylglutamate, N-acyltaurate, N-acylmethyltaurine and the like. Among them, polyoxyalkylene alkyl (or alkenyl) ether phosphate, fatty acid salt, N-acylglutamate, N-acyltaurate, N-acylmethyltaurine and the like are preferable.
[0060]
Surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content thereof is preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight in the hair cosmetic of the present invention, and more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. % By weight, especially 1 to 8% by weight.
[0061]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain a higher alcohol as the component (D) to obtain an emulsified dosage form from the viewpoints of improving moist feeling, easy application to hair, and system stability. preferable. As the higher alcohol, a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol having 12 to 30, more preferably 12 to 24, especially 16 to 22 carbon atoms may be mentioned.
Preferred specific examples of the higher alcohol include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, 2-octyllauryl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, carnavir alcohol (tetracosanol), and the like. Particularly, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are preferable.
[0062]
The higher alcohols can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content thereof is preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight in the hair cosmetic of the present invention, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. %, Particularly preferably 1 to 8% by weight.
[0063]
In the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, the component (A) is more effectively penetrated into the hair, and from the viewpoint of the effect, particularly the elasticity and the improvement of cohesion, aromatic alcohol and N-alkyl are used as the component (E). It is preferable to contain an organic solvent (particularly a liquid at 25 ° C.) selected from pyrrolidone, alkylene carbonate, polypropylene glycol, lactone and cyclic ketone.
[0064]
Among the organic solvents as the component (E), examples of the aromatic alcohol include benzyl alcohol, cinnamyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, p-anisyl alcohol, p-methylbenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and 2-benzyloxyethanol. . Examples of the N-alkylpyrrolidone include N-methylpyrrolidone, N-octylpyrrolidone, N-laurylpyrrolidone, and the like. Examples of the alkylene carbonate include ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate. As the polypropylene glycol, those having a molecular weight of 200 to 1,000 are preferable.
Examples of the lactone include γ-butyrolactone, γ-caprolactone, γ-valerolactone, δ-valerolactone, δ-caprolactone, δ-heptanolactone, and the like.From the viewpoint of the stability of the lactone, γ-lactone, particularly γ-butyrolactone and γ-caprolactone are preferred. Examples of the cyclic ketone include cyclopentanone, cyclohexanone, cycloheptanone, 4-methylcycloheptanone, and the like. Particularly preferred components (E) include benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, propylene carbonate and propylene glycol (molecular weight 400).
[0065]
The organic solvent can be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds, and the content thereof is from the viewpoints of feeling of use, gloss of hair and promotion of a modifying effect (improvement of elasticity, improvement of moisture resistance, etc.). 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0066]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain a conditioning component such as silicones for improving the finish after drying. Examples of silicones include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, cyclic silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, and oxazoline-modified silicone. Preferred are siloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, oxazoline-modified silicone, and cyclic silicone. Silicones can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content thereof is preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight in the hair cosmetic of the present invention, more preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, Particularly, 0.1 to 5% by weight is preferable.
[0067]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain an organic acid or an inorganic acid for swelling the hair and facilitating the adsorption and penetration of each component. Examples of the organic acid include a monocarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid, and a tricarboxylic acid, and may be a hydroxycarboxylic acid. Examples of the monocarboxylic acid include acetic acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid.Examples of the dicarboxylic acid include malic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and phthalic acid. Tricarboxylic acids include citric acid. Examples of the hydroxycarboxylic acid include glycolic acid, hydroxyacrylic acid, oxybutyric acid, glyceric acid, and citric acid.
Examples of the inorganic acid include phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid and the like. Of these, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and maleic acid are preferred. The organic acid and the inorganic acid can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and can be contained in the hair cosmetic of the present invention in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight.
[0068]
The pH of the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, and it can be used without any problem as long as it is in the range of pH 1 to 7. However, in particular, from the viewpoint of improving the luster of the hair and improving the cohesiveness of the hair, use in a low pH range. The pH at 25 ° C. when diluted 20 times by weight with water is preferably in the range of 1.5 to 4.5, more preferably 2.5 to 4.5, particularly preferably 3 to 4.2. For adjusting the pH, the above-mentioned acid components or other acids can be used, and inorganic or organic basic substances such as sodium hydroxide and organic amines are used.
[0069]
In addition to the above-mentioned components, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention contains cholesterol and its derivatives, crosslinked carboxylic acid / carboxylic acid ester copolymer, crosslinked acrylic acid / acrylic acid ester copolymer, and acrylamide / butanesulfonic acid acrylamide copolymer. Polymer emulsifiers such as polymers; polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin and sorbitol; humectants; chelating agents such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA); drugs such as vitamins; amino acids and derivatives thereof; Pearling agents; preservatives; bactericides; anti-inflammatory agents; anti-dandruff agents; pH adjusters;
[0070]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is "aqueous", that is, one using water or water and a lower alcohol as a medium, and its form can be appropriately selected from a liquid form, a gel form, a paste form and the like, but a liquid form is preferable.
[0071]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is of a type that is applied to hair and does not wash away, and is preferably used as, for example, a hair styling agent, a hair conditioning agent and the like. Dosage forms include pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam, aerosol foam, gel, lotion and the like.
[0072]
【Example】
Amphiphilic amide lipids used in the following Examples and Comparative Examples are the following compounds.
[0073]
Embedded image

[0074]
Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
Pump-type hair conditioning agents having the compositions shown in Table 1 (transparent type) and Table 2 (emulsion type) were prepared and evaluated for the effect of suppressing split ends and cut hairs, feeling, and unity.
[0075]
(Evaluation method)
・ Evaluation hair bundle
Japanese female hair that has not been subjected to chemical treatments such as perm and color. Makes a plate-shaped hair bundle (length of hair is cut and trimmed) with a length of 25 cm and a hair weight of 6 g. Co., Ltd., using Ravinas Color Appeal Inazuma Bleach) twice to obtain an evaluation hair bundle.
[0076]
・ Treatment with hair conditioning agent
The hair tress is washed with a shampoo (Kaosha Co., Ltd., Ravinas Advanced Shiny Crystal Shampoo), and after towel drying, a hair conditioning agent (0.6 g) is uniformly applied, and the hair is thoroughly blended with a comb. Dry for 10 minutes. This process was repeated seven times in total.
[0077]
・ Evaluation method of the effect of suppressing the generation of split ends and cut hairs
After the hair bundle subjected to the above treatment was left in an environment of 25 ° C. and 25% RH for 24 hours, the hair bundle was brushed in the same environment with a nylon brush linked to a motor. The brushing speed is 250 rpm for 60 minutes. Thereafter, the number of split ends and cut hairs was counted with an optical microscope, and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
A: No increase in split ends or cut hairs is observed.
：: Hardly any increase in split ends or cut hairs is observed.
Δ: Increase in split ends and cut hairs is slightly observed.
X: The split ends and cut hairs are remarkably increased.
[0078]
・ Evaluation method of feel and unity
The hair bundle that had been subjected to the above treatment was subjected to a sensory evaluation by five expert panelists according to the following criteria, and the total value of the evaluation points was shown.
[0079]
Moist feeling
4: Moist
3: Slightly moist
2: Not a little soft
1: Not moist
[0080]
Smoothness
4: Smooth
3: Slightly smooth
2: Not very smooth
1: not smooth
[0081]
Elasticity
4: elastic
3: Somewhat elastic
2: Somewhat elastic
1: Lack of elasticity
[0082]
Unity
4: unite
3: Yamayama
2: I can't stop
1: Uncoordinated
[0083]
[Table 1]

[0084]
[Table 2]

[0085]
Example 7

[0086]
The agent of Example 7 was put in a pump container and used by the following panelists.
(1) Repeated hair coloring makes the hair very dry and split ends And Women suffering from disorganization:
It was applied to the towel-dried hair after washing the hair after bathing, applied with a brush, and then dried with a dryer. When used in such a manner for 5 days, the following effects were obtained: moisturizing, cleansing of hair, splashing of hair tips, elimination of floating hair, gloss, and smooth feel. Further, after continuous use for about one month, the effect that split ends and cut hairs were hardly formed was clearly felt. After one month of continuous use, the hair color was applied. Unlike the previous hair color treatment, the effect was that the hair did not stick and the fingers did not get bad, and the hair was not easily damaged by the color treatment. Was done.
[0087]
(2) Women who suffer from lack of volume and stiffness due to aging and hair color:
When the hair was used for 5 days in the same manner as in (1), effects such as firmness and firmness of the hair, an increase in volume and softness, and a gloss were observed. In addition, after applying hair for about two months and applying hair coloring, the hair was weak and damp before, but this time the effect was felt that the hair was firm and firm.
[0088]
Example 8 (emulsion cream)

[0089]
Example 9 (emulsion cream)

[0090]
【The invention's effect】
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention protects the hair from physical and chemical stimuli, suppresses the occurrence of split ends and cut hairs, and imparts a good feeling such as a moist feeling, smoothness, and suppleness to the hair. It can improve cohesion and give elasticity to hair that has weakened due to aging or the like.

Claims (5)

The following components (A), (B) and (C)
(A) Amphiphilic amide lipid (B) Oil agent selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and animal and vegetable oils (C) A water-based hair cosmetic composition containing a surfactant, which is applied to hair and not washed away. The hair cosmetic according to claim 1, which further comprises (D) a higher alcohol and is emulsified. The hair cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the pH at 25 ° C when diluted 20 times by weight with water is 1.5 to 4.5. The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising an organic solvent selected from aromatic alcohol, N-alkylpyrrolidone, alkylene carbonate, polypropylene glycol, lactone and cyclic ketone as component (E). The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component (A) is an amphiphilic amide lipid selected from the following general formulas (1) to (4).

[Wherein, R ¹ represents a straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group and / or an alkoxy group, and R ² represents a straight-chain or 1 to 5 carbon atoms. It represents a branched divalent hydrocarbon group, and R ³ represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. ]

[In the formula, R ⁴ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxy group, an oxo group or an amino group, and Z represents a methylene group. represents a methine group or an oxygen atom, a broken line indicates the presence or absence of a bond [pi, X ¹ is a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group, or together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group, X ² , X ³ and X ⁴ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or an acetoxy group (provided that when Z is a methine group, one of X ² and X ³ is a hydrogen atom and the other is not present; When OX ¹ is an oxo group, X ¹ does not exist), R ⁵ and R ⁶ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group, and R ⁷ represents a hydroxy group or Even if the amino group is substituted A straight, branched or cyclic saturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 35 carbon atoms, or a straight, branched or cyclic C 8 to C 22 hydrocarbon group which may be substituted with a hydroxy group at the ω-position of the hydrocarbon group. R ⁸ represents a group in which a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid is ester-bonded, and R ⁸ represents a hydrogen atom or has a total carbon number of 1 which may have a substituent selected from a hydroxy group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group and an acetoxy group. And represents a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group. ]

[In the formula, R ⁹ represents an alkyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxy group. ]

[In the formula, R ¹⁰ represents a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl group which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a residue of 2-dodecene-1-ylsuccinic acid having 9 to 31 carbon atoms. , M represents an integer of 1 to 3, R ¹¹ and R ¹² each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and Y represents a linear or branched chain having 10 to 32 carbon atoms. An alkyl group which may be substituted by a saturated or unsaturated hydroxyl group, or

(K, i and n each represent an integer of 1 to 3, j represents 0 or 1, and R ¹³ is a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated hydroxyl group having 9 to 31 carbon atoms. Which represents a good alkyl group). ]