JP2000345417A - Method of forming irregularities on clothes fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [PROBLEMS] To provide a method of forming unevenness on the entire garment or an arbitrary part of the garment without being restricted by a design. In addition, similar to the knit product, a garment having unevenness that can expand and contract in the vertical and horizontal directions is manufactured. SOLUTION: A cloth containing thermoplastic fibers is cut into parts of a garment, the parts are sewn to form a garment, and the garment and the heat-shrinkable cloth 2 are overlapped with each other and stitched using a water-soluble thread 3. And heat-shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric by a heating plate in a dry heat / non-contact state to form the unevenness 1a and 1b on the fabric of the garment. To separate the clothing fabric from the heat-shrinkable fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for forming irregularities on clothing cloth.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as one of the techniques for forming irregularities on clothes cloth, there has been known a traditional drawing technique in which a thread is wound up and a cloth is squeezed, such as "Kanoko squeezing". In addition, pleating is known as another technique for forming irregularities on clothes cloth.

[0003] In the pleating process, cloth is usually pleated before fabric is manufactured, and then the pleated fabric is cut into a garment. However, when tailoring pleated fabric into clothing, it is necessary to sew while holding down folds, it is difficult to sew, and it is difficult to sew with a sewing machine to sew the folded fabric part etc. There was a problem.

[0004] In order to solve such a problem, it has been already proposed that the fabric be pleated after tailoring the fabric into the shape of clothing (for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-9561 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-23026). Gazette).

However, in the conventional pleating process, since the folds are forcibly formed by a machine, the pleats have a regular linear state, and only regular folds can be formed. The change was poor.

For this reason, in order to change the pleats, for example, Japanese Patent No. 2504931 discloses that a garment or a semi-finished garment is wound on a soft sheet, twisted and tied with a string, and then put into a heat treatment apparatus. It has been proposed to form pleats. However, these pleats are not perfectly straight like conventional ones, but are twisted wrinkles, so that only diagonal wrinkles are formed and change is poor. In addition, pleating cannot be performed on an arbitrary portion of the clothes, and the change is poor.

[0007] Unlike conventional pleating,
It has been proposed to form folds and wrinkles using a heat-shrinkable water-soluble yarn. JP-A-8-218213 and JP-A-9-87963 disclose that a desired portion of a garment made of a thermoplastic material is tentatively sewn using a heat-shrinkable water-soluble thread, subjected to a heat treatment, and subjected to heat treatment. It is disclosed that the shrinkable water-soluble yarn is shrunk to form a fold, and then the heat-shrinkable water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed with warm water to form a fold in a desired portion of the garment.

[0008] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-31839 discloses that
It is disclosed that a water-soluble yarn having shrinkage and a non-shrinkable yarn are interwoven to shrink the water-soluble yarn, and then the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed to form wrinkles on the cloth.

[0009]

When irregularities are formed on the fabric by the conventional drawing technique, the irregularities can be formed at any place on the clothes, and the pattern can be made arbitrary. Is there.

However, there is a problem that the thread must be wound around each of the portions where the projections are to be formed, which takes a lot of time and labor and makes the finished clothes extremely expensive. .

On the other hand, in conventional pleating, in which folds are mechanically folded, the folds are linear, and there is a problem that the design is poorly changed. Further, the cloth only expands and contracts in a direction orthogonal to the fold, but does not expand and contract in the direction of the fold. Therefore, for example, even if the entire garment is pleated, the direction of expansion and contraction is only the direction intersecting with the fold, and it expands and contracts like a knit product and fits people of any body shape Not that.

[0012] A predetermined portion of clothing is stitched with a contractible and water-soluble thread as disclosed in JP-A-8-218213 and JP-A-9-87963, and Even if a wrinkle is provided in a portion, it can only be shrunk by a thread, so that it cannot be sufficiently shrunk by the force of the cloth to be shrunk, and only a few wrinkles can be formed. Also, it is difficult to wrinkle a thick cloth by such a method, and only very small wrinkles having low irregularities can be formed.

[0013] In addition, such a method can form only small irregularities such as wrinkles in terms of design, and cannot provide a variety of designs.

Further, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-31839, when a water-soluble yarn having shrinkability is interwoven, there is a restriction that such a cloth must be used. Shrinkable yarns can be woven only in the vertical and horizontal straight lines. Therefore, there is a problem that the design cannot be changed because an arbitrary fabric cannot be used and the place for shrinking is not arbitrary.

[0015]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to form unevenness on the entire garment or on an arbitrary portion of the garment, and to provide a method for forming unevenness on a garment cloth without being restricted by a design. It is. Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a garment having irregularities which can be expanded and contracted in the vertical and horizontal directions similarly to a knit product by forming irregularities on the entire garment or a desired area.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method for forming irregularities on a garment fabric and further providing a change in the surface of the garment fabric.

[0017]

According to the first aspect of the present invention, a cloth containing thermoplastic fiber is cut into parts of clothes, and the parts are sewn to form clothes, and the clothes and the heat-shrinkable cloth are separated. Superimposed and stitched using a water-soluble thread and stitched, and the stitched fabric is heat-treated by a heating plate in a dry heat / non-contact state to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric to form irregularities on the clothing fabric. The above object is achieved by a method of forming irregularities on a garment fabric, wherein the garment fabric is separated from the heat-shrinkable fabric by dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn.

According to the second aspect of the present invention, the cloth containing the thermoplastic fiber is cut into parts of the garment, the parts are sewn into the shape of the garment, and the heat-shrinkable cloth is partially placed on the garment. The heat-shrinkable fabric is stitched with a water-soluble thread to sew the heat-shrinkable fabric to the garment fabric, and the sewn fabric is heated by a heating plate in a dry heat / non-contact state to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric. Forming irregularities and gathers on the garment fabric, and then dissolving and removing the water-soluble thread to separate the garment fabric and the heat-shrinkable fabric, thereby forming irregularities on the garment fabric. The above object has been achieved by the method.

According to the third aspect of the present invention, the cloth containing the thermoplastic fibers is cut into parts of the garment, and the parts are sewn to form a garment. Stitching and sewing with a synthetic thread, heat-treating the sewn fabric to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric to form irregularities on the clothing fabric, and then dissolve and remove the water-soluble yarn. The fabric of the garment by sublimation transfer printing before or after dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn, while separating the fabric of the garment from the heat-shrinkable fabric. The above object has been achieved by a method of forming irregularities on the surface.

[0020]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to the drawings. 1 (a) to 1 (c) are plan views illustrating the outline of the manufacturing process of the garment of the present invention. First, the fabric containing thermoplastic fibers is cut into clothing parts, and these parts are sewn,
As shown in FIG. 1 (a), the clothes are tailored. The thermoplastic fiber is not particularly limited as long as it can be heat-set, but polyester fiber is preferable. Further, from the viewpoint of heat setting, a fabric containing 50% or more, preferably 70 to 100% of thermoplastic fibers is used.

Further, when cutting each part, the garment manufactured by the method of the present invention eventually has irregularities on the fabric, and has a finished shape reduced in size by 10% to 65%. In view of this, it is cut into a large shape (about 1.1 to about 2.8 times) and sewn. Further, as the shape of the garment, all parts may be sewn to form a complete garment, or only a part of the garment may be sewn to a specific part of the garment (for example, in a garment with sleeves). Body part)
May be used. In the case where the shape of a specific part of the garment is used, the garment may be completed by performing the method of the present invention described below on the specific part and sewing the remaining parts together.

Next, the garment made of the cloth 1 and a heat-shrinkable cloth [Tevilon (registered trademark): a product of Teijin Limited, a cloth made of polyvinyl chloride] 2 are superimposed on each other, and the cloth is sewn with a sewing machine. Stitching is performed using the water-soluble thread 3 and sewn (see FIG. 1B). As the water-soluble yarn 3, for example, Solblon (registered trademark) manufactured by Nichibi Corporation may be used.

The stitches can be machined in any direction and shape, and can have a desired design. For example, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 1 (b), a plurality of stitches 31 are formed in a collar, a chest and a waist in parallel in a vertical direction, and a stitch in a shape of drawing an arc around the neck along the neck. 32, a stitch 33 of a shape drawing an arc on both sides, a lateral stitch 34 on the chest,
And the stitches 35 in the diagonal direction are hung on the hem portions, respectively, and the entire fabric 1 of the clothes is sewn to the heat-shrinkable fabric 2. Although the interval between adjacent stitches is arbitrary, as shown in FIG. 1 (b), when stitching is performed on the entire garment (depending on the thickness of the cloth 1 of the garment, etc.), for example, with a relatively thin cloth, An interval of about 6 to 10 mm is appropriate from the viewpoint of the finished unevenness.

Thus, the garment fabric 1 and the heat-shrinkable fabric 2
Is heat-treated in a dry state to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 to form irregularities on the fabric 1 of the garment.

The heat-shrinkable fabric 2 used in the method of the present invention has a heat shrinkage of at least one of 20 to 60% in the warp or weft direction, preferably 30% or more. do it. The heat-shrinkable fabric 2 using the heat-shrinkable yarn for both the warp and the weft is preferable because it shrinks in both directions. However, the heat-shrinkable yarn is used for only one of the warp or the weft, and only one of the warp or the weft is used. The cloth may be made to shrink. Further, the heat shrinkage rates in the warp direction and the weft direction may be different. As heat shrinkable yarn,
For example, yarns using polyvinyl chloride fibers or polyurethane fibers [for example, “Spandex” (trademark)] are suitable.

In the case of giving elasticity like a knit product, it is preferable to use a heat-shrinkable fabric 2 having a shrinkage ratio of about 50% in the warp and weft directions. As the heat-shrinkable fabric 2,
For example, Tevilon cloth (manufactured by Teijin Limited) woven by using 50 to 100 denier “Tevilon” filament yarn for warp and weft may be used. The heating temperature in the present invention is from 140 ° C. to 195 ° C., and varies depending on the thickness of the cloth and the sewing method, but the heating time is from about 40 seconds to about 6 minutes. When the time is set to about 6 minutes, for example, it may be repeated three times every two minutes. The same fabric may differ depending on the size or sewing method. The necessary heating time may vary depending on the thickness of the material, or the thickness may be increased as a result of being picked and stitched in a tack shape. For example, when a relatively thin cloth is stitched as shown in FIG.
When heated by a heating plate heated to about 195 ° C. in a dry heat / non-contact state for about 45 to 60 seconds, the heat-shrinkable fabric 2
Shrinks both vertically and horizontally. Cloth 1 for clothing
Is a relatively thin cloth, and when using Tevilon cloth which shrinks by about 50%, the size after heating was reduced to about half the original size in both length and width. Even if the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 shrinks to a small size, the cloth 1 of the clothes remains at the original size, so that the surplus portion floats up at the unsewn portion and becomes a convex portion, and the stitches 31, 3
2, 33, 34 and 35 are concave portions.

After that, the sewn cloths 1 and 2 are
The water-soluble yarn 3 is dissolved and removed by immersing it in hot water at 90 ° C. to dissolve the bond between the garment fabric 1 and the heat-shrinkable fabric 2, and the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 is peeled off from the garment fabric 1. In this way, a garment as shown in FIG. 1 (c) on which unevenness that can be extended vertically and horizontally is formed is obtained.

As shown in FIG. 1 (c), where the stitches 32 and 33 are drawn by drawing arcs around the neck and both sides,
Irregularities are formed in a shape like a circular arc. When the stitches 31, 34, and 35 are applied linearly on the chest and torso, the irregularities are linearly arranged. This is because the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 shrinks in both the vertical and horizontal directions.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of FIG. 1 to explain a state in which the cloth 1 of the garment and the heat-shrinkable cloth 2 are sewn together with the water-soluble thread 3 and a state in which the cloth 1 has irregularities. It is a schematic drawing drawn. FIG. 2A is a plan view when a plurality of stitches are applied in a vertical direction in parallel in a straight line,
FIG. 2B is a cross-sectional view taken along the line BB of FIG. 2A, and the thicknesses of the fabrics 1 and 2 are drawn thicker than actual. FIG. 2C is a plan view of the fabric 1 having the unevenness, and FIG.
2C is a cross-sectional view along the line DD in FIG. 2C, and FIG. 2E is a cross-sectional view along the line EE in FIG. 2C.

As shown in FIGS. 2 (c) to 2 (e), the fabric 1 has irregularities such that the convex portions 1a and the concave portions 1b are arranged in a straight line. The projection 1a and the depression 1b are shown in FIG.
In (e), the size appears to be regular, but FIG. 2 is a schematic representation, and is not actually regular. Specifically, the portion fixed by the stitch 3 is shrunk together with the heat-shrinkable fabric 2,
, It becomes a fine fold, and becomes a concave portion 1b which is linearly continuous as a whole. On the other hand, since the space between the adjacent stitches 3 is not fixed, it rises greatly and appears as an intermittent convex portion 1a. Since the convex portion 1a is intermittent, it is not a pleat that is a continuous pleat, but a convex portion of a wind-up diaphragm.

FIG. 3 is a schematic drawing similar to FIG. 2, and FIG. 3 (a) depicts a curve between the vertical straight stitches in FIG. FIG. 3 is a plan view showing a case where a plurality of stitches are applied in a horizontal direction in parallel with each other.
FIG. 2B is a plan view of the fabric 1 in which the unevenness is formed by heat contraction. As shown in FIG. 3 (b), the portion where the stitch is applied in a curved shape becomes a continuous concave portion 1b, and a convex portion 1a appears intermittently between the concave portions, and the convex portion 1a is formed in a curved shape. Be placed.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, the entire surface of the clothes is stitched substantially evenly. However, the stitches may be staggered at intervals rather than on the entire surface or evenly.

FIG. 4 shows another embodiment, in which (a)
1 is a plan view before heat treatment, (b) is a cross-sectional view, and (c) is a plan view of a garment fabric after heat treatment. As shown in FIG. 4 (b), a thick cotton-like sheet 4 is placed on the two cloths 1 of clothes, and the heat-shrinkable cloth 2 is placed thereon. Then, for example, as shown in FIG. Thereafter, heat treatment is performed to dissolve the water-soluble yarn 3, and the fabric 1 is separated from the fabric 2.
As shown in (c), the diamond-shaped pattern is raised as the convex portion 1a, and the fabric 1 of the clothes is obtained in a state where the stitch portion is the concave portion 1b.

In this method, since the cotton-like sheet 4 is stitched between the fabric 1 and the fabric 2, the fabric 1 of the garment is shrunk when the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 is thermally contracted by heat treatment.
The portion which is not fixed by the stitch is kept in a state of swelling by the cotton-like sheet 4, and fine irregularities are hardly formed.

5A and 5B are diagrams for explaining still another embodiment of the method of the present invention. FIG. 5A is a plan view before heat treatment, and FIG. 5B is a view of a garment fabric after heat treatment. It is a top view. In this embodiment, instead of placing the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 on the entire surface of the garment and performing stitching, for example, as shown in FIG.
And stitch it only with the water-soluble yarn 3. Then, a heat treatment is performed to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric 2,
Thereafter, the water-soluble yarn 3 is removed by washing with hot water at 80 to 90 ° C. In the fabric 1 thus completed, FIG.
As shown in (b), the portion where the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 was placed has fine irregularities 1a and 1b, and the portion without the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 is heated and set while being wrinkled. Therefore, the heat setting is performed with the gathers 1c attached.

According to this embodiment, two types of facial expressions of fine squeezed wind-like irregularities 1a and 1b and gathers 1c can be exhibited in one piece of clothing without switching and sewing the fabric. . In addition, since the size, arrangement, stitching method, and the like of the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 can be arbitrarily changed, the design can be greatly varied.

As a further development of the above-described method, after forming irregularities on the garment fabric 1 and before or after dissolving and removing the water-soluble thread 3, the garment fabric 1 is formed.
Can be subjected to sublimation transfer printing. That is, a thermal transfer sheet on which a sublimable dye is applied is placed on the uneven fabric 1, and thermal transfer is performed at about 180 ° C. for 30 seconds to perform printing.

As described above, in the method of the present invention, the stitches can be formed in an arbitrary shape, and the stitches can be widened or narrowed. The unevenness of the finished fabric 1 is also various.

In addition, the unevenness in the present invention can be applied to an arbitrary part of clothes. In this case, it is possible to attach both sides simultaneously, for example, in the case of clothing that opens forward, only the front body or only the back body, or a state in which the sleeves are folded and four front and back parts are stacked. By placing the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 thereon and stitching it, it is also possible to make the both protruding portions and the back portion have irregularities at the same time. It is also possible to make only the sleeve part uneven.

In the above description, the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 is placed on the garment and stitched. However, the heat-shrinkable fabric 2 is placed between the fabrics 1 of the garment (for example, inside the body). Stitches may be applied with the fabric 2 interposed therebetween.

Further, in the present invention, the cloth of the garment is cut and sewn to the shape of the garment first, but the degree of shrinkage is experimentally confirmed in advance, and a desired size can be obtained in accordance with the experiment. It may be cut and sewn as follows. That is, even if the same fabric 2 is sewn in the same manner as the heat-shrinkable fabric 2, the fabric shrinks well when the fabric to be garment is thin, but for example, when the fabric is thick like velvet, Due to the strength of the fabric of the clothes, it does not shrink much and does not have high irregularities.

[0042]

According to the method of the present invention, irregularities can be formed on the entire garment or on any part of the garment, and irregularities can be formed on the cloth of the garment without being restricted by the design.

Further, according to the method of the present invention, when unevenness is formed on the entire garment or a desired area by using a fabric that shrinks in the warp direction and the weft direction in the same manner as in a knit product, It is possible to manufacture clothes having irregularities that can be expanded and contracted. In other words, when stitching the fabric of the garment and the heat-shrinkable fabric, when the stitch is applied to the entire garment, the entire garment shrinks, and the entire garment becomes uneven, so that it can expand and contract both vertically and horizontally. A product having high elasticity can be obtained in the same manner as a knit product. If irregularities are formed in the chest area, the chest becomes highly elastic.
Therefore, it is possible to obtain clothes that fit the body well without forming darts or the like.

When irregularities are formed on the entire garment or on a desired region using a fabric that thermally shrinks in the warp direction or the weft direction, the garment can be expanded or contracted in the vertical or horizontal direction. What is easy to wear is obtained.

In addition, when the unevenness is formed by the method of the present invention, there is no design limitation as in the case of making a knit product, and there is no restriction in the direction of the pleats as in conventional pleating. Very wide design. In addition, by applying stitches that draw various curves, it is possible to provide curved irregularities, which can be very interesting in design.

Further, according to the method of the present invention, after forming the unevenness on the cloth, the picture is printed with the unevenness. For this reason, the finished clothes become interesting ones in which the unevenness expands and contracts with the movement of the body when worn, and the pattern changes.

As described above, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to form irregularities on the cloth of the garment and to change the surface of the cloth of the garment.

[Brief description of the drawings]

1 (a) to 1 (c) are plan views for explaining an outline of a manufacturing process of a garment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic drawing enlarged from FIG. 1 to explain a state in which the cloth of the garment and the heat-shrinkable cloth are sewn with a water-soluble thread and a state in which irregularities are formed in the cloth of the garment. It is. FIG. 2A is a plan view showing a case where a plurality of stitches are applied in the vertical direction in parallel in a straight line, and FIG.
It is sectional drawing which followed the B line. (C) is a plan view of the fabric having irregularities, (d) is a cross-sectional view along the line DD in FIG. 2 (c), and (e) is a line along the line EE in FIG. 2 (c). It is sectional drawing.

3A and 3B are schematic diagrams similar to FIG. 2, wherein FIG. 3A is a plan view of a plurality of stitches being drawn in a horizontal direction in parallel with a curved line, and FIG. It is a top view of the cloth which formed.

FIG. 4 shows another embodiment of the method of the present invention;
(A) is a plan view before heat treatment, (b) is a cross-sectional view, and (c) is a plan view of the cloth of the garment after heat treatment.

FIG. 5 is a view for explaining still another embodiment of the method of the present invention. FIG. 5 (a) is a plan view before a heat treatment, and FIG.
(B) is a top view of the clothing fabric after the heat treatment.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Cloth 1a Convex part 1b Concave part 1c Gather 2 Heat-shrinkable cloth 3 Water-soluble thread 4 Cotton-like sheet 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 Stitch

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A cloth containing thermoplastic fibers is cut into parts of clothes, the parts are sewn into a shape of clothes, and the clothes and heat-shrinkable cloth are superimposed and stitched with a water-soluble thread. Hook and sew, heat-treat the sewn fabric with a heating plate in a dry heat / non-contact state to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric to form irregularities on the clothing fabric, and then dissolve the water-soluble yarn Removing the garment fabric and the heat-shrinkable fabric to form irregularities in the garment fabric. 2. A cloth containing thermoplastic fibers is cut into garment parts, the parts are sewn into a garment shape, a heat-shrinkable cloth is partially placed on the garment, and water-soluble yarn is used. Stitching the heat-shrinkable fabric to a garment fabric, and heat-treating the sewn fabric with a hot plate in a dry heat / non-contact state to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric to form a garment fabric. Forming irregularities and gathers on the garment fabric, and then dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn to separate the garment fabric and the heat-shrinkable fabric. 3. A cloth containing thermoplastic fibers is cut into parts of clothes, the parts are sewn to form clothes, and the clothes and heat-shrinkable cloth are superimposed and stitched using a water-soluble thread. Hook and sew, heat-treat the sewn fabric to shrink the heat-shrinkable fabric to form irregularities in the garment fabric, and then dissolve and remove the water-soluble thread to remove the garment fabric and the garment. A method for forming irregularities on a garment fabric, wherein the fabric is subjected to sublimation transfer printing before or after dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn, while separating the heat-shrinkable fabric from the heat-shrinkable fabric.