GB2336165A - A stretch fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for the production of a stretch worsted fabric is described. The process comprises the steps of: under setting the warp by at least 13% during fabric production and shrinking the fabric at a temperature of at least 60‹C to set the width during the finishing process. The invention includes a worsted fabric comprising a series of weft fibres and a series of warp fibres. The weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 11% of the unstretched width.

Description

2336165 - 1 A STRETCH FABRIC The present invention relates to a stretch

fabric and, particular, a stretch worsted fabric.

For many years worsted fabrics have been used f or the production of clothing. Worsted fabrics are particularly preferred for the production of high quality tailored products such as suits, skirts, jackets, trousers, dresses, coats etc. More recently, Lycra blends have been introduced which are made by mixing traditional fibres with lycra. A typical fibre blend may consist of a man made fibre such as polyester, a natural fibre such as wool and Lycra. The Lycra containing product has certain is advantages over the conventional worsted fabrics in that they provide greater comfort by allowing the fabric to stretch. However, due to the presence of Lvcra in the product, such products have tailoring problems which necessitate very tight control during tailoring operations. During the production of clothing made from Lycra blends, it is important that no stretching or pulling of the fabric takes place. This requirement for a tension free tailoring process creates manufacturing difficulties. It is one of the objects of the present invention to overcome this-problem.

In addition to the above problems there is a growing tendency to require clothing made entirely from natural products and it has hitherto not been possible to provide a fabric made from natural fibres which has the stretch capabilities of a synthetic product containing Lycra.

It is a further object of the present invention to overcome this problem.

2 Furthermore, fabrics containing Lycra tend to have a reduced life due to degradation of the Lycra elasticity causing the fabric to become "baggy" and lose shape. Furthermore, Lycra products have reduced wear resistance compared with natural products or traditional blends.

It is a still further object of the present invention to overcome these and other problems.

According to the present invention there is provided a process for the production of a stretch worsted fabric comprising the steps of:- under setting the warp by at least 13% during fabric production and shrinking the fabric at a temperature of at least 600C to set the width during the finishing process.

Preferably, the shrinking of the fabric is at a temperature of between 600C1000C.

Preferably, the warp is under sett by between 13-35%, more preferably, 1530%, most preferably, 15-25%.

By under setting of the warp is meant under setting compared with Armitage's maximum setting theory ie the maximum number of threads/inch in terms of the fabric count using the following equation:- maximum # threads/inch = V6C (f+4) where:C = yarn count in inches F = average float of weave (eg 2/2 twill = 2, plain weave = 1, 2/1 twill = 1. 66) Preferably, the finishing process incorporates the further step of KD setting at a temperature of at least 1000C, more preferably, at least 1200C, most preferably at least 1300C. The K D setting may be carried out in the range of temperatures between 100 - 1800C, more preferably 1201600C, most preferably 130-150'C.

Advantageously, by under setting the warp and introducing additional shrinkage into the worsted fabric an exaggerated crimp is introduced into the weft yarn giving additional stretch in the fabric of between 3-8% in the direction of the weft. Thus, for example, a worsted fabric having ordinary stretch of approximately 8-10% may have total stretch of 11-18% by utilising the process of the invention. Such stretch may be incorporated into the memory of the yarn by means of the KD setting step.

is Preferably, the weft is under set by at least 6% during the production process, more preferably 6-12%, most preferably 7-11%.

By under setting the weft in this manner, allowance is made for the additional shrinkage finishing step acting on the weft.

Preferably, to further allow for the additional shrinkage in the f ibres the loom width is sett wider than normal rigid fabric. Preferably, at least 3% wider, more preferably between 3-20% wider, most preferably between 515% wider than a rigid worsted fabric of corresponding final finished width.

Preferably, after finishing, the worsted fabric looses between 5-40% of its original loom width, more preferably, 5-30% of its original loom width, most preferably 8-30% of its original loom width.

Preferably, the finishing process additionally includes any one or more of the usual finishing steps for worsted fabric including:- scouring step; tenter and drying step; steam relaxing step; super finishing step; conti press; and Hoffmann press a a According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a worsted fabric comprising a series of weft fibres and a series of warp fibres wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 11% of the unstretched width.

Preferably, the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 12%, more preferably, at least, 14%, most preferably, at least 16%.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a worsted fabric comprising a series of weft fibres and a series of warp fibres wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide an additional stretch in the weft direction of a least 9% of the unstretched width.

Preferably, the additional stretch is between 9% and 40%, more preferably, 10-30%, most preferably at least 12% of the unstretched width of the fabric.

Additional stretch means additional stretch as compared with the same fabric prepared in accordance with Armitage's maximum setting theory.

Preferably, the fabric is prepared in accordance with the f irst aspect of the present invention and any of the preferred features thereof.

Preferably, in accordance with any aspect of the invention, the additional crimp is set into the fabric by means of combining a shrinking process and a KD setting step.

Preferably, the shrinking process and the KD setting set are in accordance with the parameters and/or preferred parameters of the first aspect of the present invention.

Preferably, in accordance with any aspect of the invention is the shrinking and KD steps may be followed by a steam releasing step.

Embodiments of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying examples and test results.

Figure la shows a schematic cross-section through the warp threads of traditional rigid fabric; and Figure ib shows a schematic cross-section through the warp threads of a fabric in accordance with the present invention.

Referring to figure 1, the weft threads, as exemplified by figure lb, display an increased amount of interlacing or crimping compared with the traditional weft thread, as exemplified by figure la. The increased interlacing or crimping allows the finished fabric to display enhanced stretch in the weft direction compared with traditional fabrics.

6 Example 1

A.

c The weaving process is in accordance with those known to the skilled men in the art for a 2/1 twill with the addition of the following steps:- 1. Make loom width an additional 7.06% wider than that for a normal rigid fabric.

2. Under sett the warp by 23% compared with Armitage's Maximum Setting Theory.

3. Under sett the weft by 10% compared with Armitage's Maximum Setting Theory.

Armitage's Maximum Setting Theory = V6C (f+4) Key C - Yarn count f Average float of weave (2/2 twill = 2, plain weave 1, 2/1 twill = 1. 66).

B. Finishing Process The finishing process incorporates the following steps:

1. Normal scour 2. After scour the fabric looses 12.5% in width from original loom width. 3. Additional shrinking process (set) at 800C, fabric looses a further 3% in width. This is known as a 35 crabbing step.

7 4. Tenter, to wet width + 4cm.

5. Steam relax, fabric returns to (set) width before 4cm added.

6. Super finish, which is in preparation for KD. 5 7. KD (Setting) at 1400C.

8. steam relax which sets thic fabric ar- IC-lic width.

9. Conti press, this is a purely cosmetic process, it makes the finished fabric handle and look better, but disappears after Hoffmann pressing.

The fabric loses a total of 18.91% in width from its original loom width to its finished width.

The result of this finishing process is to exaggerate the normal crimp in the yarn.

Example 2

A. weaving of worsted fabric The weaving process is the same as that set out above in Example 1 but for a plain weave and with the following further variations:

Make loom sett an additional 9.64% wider than a normal rigid fabric.

2. Under sett the warp by 20.0% compared with Armitage's Maximum Setting Theory.

Under sett the weft by 8% compared with Armitage's Maximum Setting Theory.

8 - B. Finishing Process The finishing process is as that described for example 1 above.

Examples 1-6

Manufacturing parameters for example 1-6 are shown in Table 1 which also shows the shrinkages during each step 10 of the finishing process.

Table 2 shows the width changes in detail for examples 1 and 2 together with the increase in loom width and reduction in loom set compared with the normal width and set for such a fabric. It should be appreciated that the normal set is generally a little less than Armitage's maximum.

Table 3 shows the types of fabrics utilised in the examples.

TABLE 1 is Example W in Grey % After % After % Tent Steam % Fin Total No Actual % diff Normal Actual % % % No. loom width loss Scour loss crab loss width width loss width % loom to- OM loom loom Diff Extension Recovery loss set set width width Example 180. 169 6.95 160 5.62 155.5 2.89 159.5 155 2.90 152 18.91 69 57 21.05 170 182 7.06 12.70 0.30 2 74 Example 180. 169 6.71 159 6.29 155 2.58 159.5 155 2.90 152 18.64 60 48 25. 00 110 180 5.88 - 3 34 Example 177. 169 5.21 159 6.29 155 2.58 159.5 162 -1.54 162 9.75 96 87 10. 34 964 178 8.54 - 4 8 Example 182. 170 7.35 155.5 9.32 153 1.63 157.5 151 4.30 152.5 19.67 58 52 11.54 1166 182 9.64 14.20 0.80 1 5 Example 168 132 27.27 66 57 15.79 174 184 5.75 23.90 3.50 Example 168 132 27.27 76 64 18.75 174 192 10.34 6 TABLE 2

Example Loss in OAW Loss in Reduction in after Loom width Loom set finishing Example 2 18.91% 7.06% 21.05% Example 1 19.67% 9.64% 11.54% is TABLE 3

Example No. Type of fabric Stretch plain weave fabric 1 (64) 100% wool worsted suiting 2 Stretching Prunelle 2/1 twill fabric (64) 100% wool worsted suiting 3 Stretch 2/1 twill fabric (48) 100% wool worsted suiting 4 Stretch Gaberdine (64) 100% wool worsted suiting Stretch 2/1 twill/fancy weave 100% wool worsted suiting 6 Stretch 2/2 twill/fancy weave 100% wool worsted suiting 12 Comparison Test A Four samples were tested for comparative purposes. Samples 1 & 2 are a Lyera and non-Lycra standard fabric and samples 3 & 4 are stretch fabrics of the invention derived from example 1. Sample 3 has had an additional wash and crease finishing step whereas sample 4 has undergone a normal finish.

Table 4 is SAMPLE DESCRIPTION

1 54% Polyester/43% Wool/3% Lycra 2 100% Rigid Wool Worsted Suiting 3 Stretch plain weave fabric Wash & Crease 100% Wool Worsted Suiting 4 Stretch plain weave fabric Normal Finish 100% Wool Worsted Suiting Test Objective To compare normal plain weave 100% wool worsted suiting, InnlllyCEgI blend and two stretch fabrics prepared in accordance with the invention.

Test Method Fabric mechanical properties were assessed using the full Kawabata Evaluation System. Results are shown in tabular (table 5) and snake chart (table 6) form.

Test Results Table 5(a)

SAMPLE KES 3 4 Warp Welft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft LT is tensile linearity 0.704 0.957 0.730 0.738 0.742 0.670 0.725 0.673 -WT is tensile energy (gf.cm/cm') 28.19 31.15 8.8 14.05 7.01 17.69 7.75 14.27 RT is tensile resilience (%) 47.13 34.34 54.9 50.1 63.8 55.2 66.6 58.0 EMT is tensile strain C/o) 15.67 12.93 4.82 7.62 3.78 10.61 4.28 8.49 G is shear stiffness (gflcm) 0.50 0.45 0.58 0.58 0.78 0.74 0.75 0.75 2HG is hysteresis shear force at 0.5 (gf.cm) 0.60 0.42 0.46 0.50 0.57 0. 56 0.42 0.53 2HG5 is hysteresis shear force at 5 (gflcm) 1.30 1.04 1.03 1.04 1.49 1.55 1.26 1.33 MIU is coefficient of friction 0.196 0.257 0.201 0.188 0.225 0.206 0.186 0.194 MMI) is mean deviation Of codTicient of friction 0.0292 0.0587 0.0137 0. 0133 0.0211 0.0272 0.0228 0.0364 is 8.12 8.60 2.14 1.93 3.12 5.38 4.13 7.17 EMMD is fi"ty 0.0645 0.0860 0.0704 0.0450 0.0910 0.053 0.0586 0.0205 B 2HR ---is bentling rigidity (g.lct) 0.0353 0.0359 0.0345 0.0237 0.0415 0. 0205 0.0571 0.0198 LC is linearity of compression 0.331 0.283 0.446. 0.405 WC compressional energy (gf cni/cm) 0.132 0.138 0.116 0.116 RC compressional resilience (%) 50.4 60.4 60.0 60.3 TO is thickness at max. pressure (nun) 0.773 0.584 0.433 0.429 Tm is thickness at max. pressure (nun) 0.611 0.338 0.329 0.314 EMC is compressional coefficient 20.96 33.56 24.02 26.90 W is weight 216.00 166.5 142.77 140.15 Tabl 5,'hl Summer Weight Fabric Sagnple Stiffness/Fmnness Crh, 2 2,27 Low -0.90 3 3.57 Fair 2.19 4 3.27 Fah' 3.29 a W a C55 Fullness/Softess Hardness Total Hand Value Very Low 3.86 Fair 2.57 Low -0.20 Very Low Poor 3.36 Fair 3.47 Fair 1.89 Fair Fair 3.64 Fair 3.35 Fair 2.56 Above Average 14 TABLE 6 CONTROL CT of the PARAWTERS FOR TAILORABILITY CONTROL ZONE 3 Weft oaon 3.5 Sampl.,e 2o Sam e 1 0.6 Shmr rwt y 0.8 Hyg-1 a- 1% warp 1% Rok=dm zge 0% rp 0% ACCMABLE AREA 0-55 039 0.63 CONTROL ZONE 0.67 - Ir-u- 1; 3.

7.0 1 2 0.72 0A4 Sample 4 2-2 Sample 3 2-7 4.4 2-7 4.4 1 2 1 2 3 Ratio of p & W" exto 0.95 3 Shwr hyst 6% 6% H -ft 3% 3% zgr Acceptable Area' No special care needed Control zone' May require special care when handling and making up ( n-b. negative e is an incmase in 1) 1 1 i 1 1 i 1 Conclusions

Sam-ple 1 The inclusion of lycra is the cause of the rather exaggerated snake chart Table 6. The sample shows high tensile linearity (LT), low tensile resilience (RT), very high tensile strain (EMT1) and low shear (G). This table shows potential difficulties with conventional tailoring and controlled operation will be required during manufacture.

Sam-ple 2 Tensile linearity (LT) is high and tensile (RT) is low.

Sample 3 The sample shows higher weft EMT compared with Sample 2 despite being an intrinsically less stretchable fabric as evidenced by the lower warp EMT (Table 5).

The bulk of parameters fall within the acceptable zone on the tailorability chart (Table 6).

Sample 4 Again, the sample showing higher weft EMT than Sample 2. The bulk of parameters fall within the acceptable zone on the tailorability chart.

The tests clearly show in table 6 that the fabric containing Lycra requires much more care and attention in garment making, whereas the two stretch fabrics (Samples 3 & 4) perform as good, if not better than a traditional rigid, non stretch fabric (Sample 2).

16 - Table 5 (b) shows that the stretch fabrics have excellent stiffness, crispness, fullness, hardness and hand values compared with a traditional worsted fabric.

The figures on abrasion and pilling show that the stretch sample 3 and 4 gave excellent results.

The Lycra product requires many high skill and attention factors in its manufacture whereas the stretch samples 3 & 4 have the same properties as Lycra, without the manufacturing problems. Furthermore, samples 3 & 4 outperform the traditional rigid product in terms of weft stretch.

is Table 6 also illustrates the tailoring advantages of fabrics prepared in accordance with the present invention. Examples 3 and 4 both show weft extension levels comparable with the lycra sample but the warp extension levels are within the acceptable area and much lower than the warp extension levels of a Lycra product. By providing weft extension and warp rigidity, a stretch fabric is provided which has the advantages of a stretch fabric but sufficient rigidity in the warp direction to allow efficient tailoring.

Comparative Test B This test was to compare four fabrics, listed over in table 7. Samples 7 and 8 are derived from Example 2. Sample 7 has had an additional wash and crease finishing step whereas sample 8 has had a normal finish.

Table 7

Sample Description

Polyester/Wool/Lycra 6 100% rigid (non stretch, traditional) Wool Worsted suiting 7 Stretch 2/1 Twill fabric with washable/crease retention treatment Stretch 2/1 Twill fabric without washable/crease retention treatment These tests were to show, as above, the comparisons between a fabric containing Lycra, a traditional rigid (non stretch) and two heavier weight stretch fabrics in accordance with the invention.

The results were very similar to those in comparative test A.

Test method Fabric mechanical properties were assessed using the full Kawabata Evaluation System. Results are shown in table 8 and table 9.

Conclusions

Sample 5 The inclusion of lycra is the cause of the rather exaggerated snake chart (table 9). Table 8 & 9 show high tensile linearity (LT), high tensile resilience (RT), very high tensile strain (EMTI) and low shear (G).

TABLE 8

Test Results SAMPLE KES 5 6 7 Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft LT is tensile linearity 0.903 0.967 0.748 0.711 0.759 0.700 0.725 0.663 WT is tensile energy 1.21 0.65 9,25 11.61 6.82 16.03 7.17 19.29 RT is tensile resilience (%) 77.33 78.1 56.6 59.4 66.1 55.7 64.1 50.8 EM is tensile strain (%) 5.38 2,71 4.95 6.54 3.61 9.16 3.69 11.65 G is shear stiffness (gf/cm') 0.53 0.51 0.80 0.75 0.68 0.67 0.72 0.67 2HG is hysteresis shear force at 0.50 (gf.cm) 0.59 0.42 0.65 0.58 0.33 0. 48 0.65 0.64 2HG5 is hysteresis shear force at 59 (gflem) 1.45 1.31 1.59 1.53 1.28 1. 40 1.36 1.36 bm is coefficient of friction 0.213 0.267 0.187 0.194 0.193 0.223 0.204 0. 262 b is mean deviation of coefficient of friction 0.0206 0.0604 0.0181 0. 0138 0.0144 0.0258 0.0136 0.0144 SMD is geometrical roughness (g) 9.38 10.60 2.43 2.58 2.42 6.94 2.35 4.60 B is bending rigidity (g.cm-Icm) 0.0727 0.0894 0.1253 0.0967 0.0697 0. 0664 0.0752 0.0610- 2HB is bending rigidity (g.cm/cm) 0.0328 0.0362 0.0550 0.0428 0.0236 0. 0237 0.0266 0.0188- LC is i_ earity of compression 0.309 0.327 0.429 0.422 wc compressional energy (gf.cadcm') 0.15 0.124 0.144 0.168 RC compressional resilience (%) 48.3 59.5 62.7 64.7 T. is thickness at max. pressure (mm) 0.8 0.658 0.515 0.513 Tw is thickness at max. pressure (mm) 0.605 0.506 0.382 0.353 EMC is compressional coefficient (%) 24,38 23.10 25.82 31.19 W is weight (glm') 216.00 231.08 174.46 170.02 0 iSO, 1 - 19 TABLE 9 CONTROL CH"T Of de PARAMETERS FOR RITY CONTROL ZONE Touik rodimm ACCEPTABIZAREA 0.55 0.59 0.63 3 3.7 CONTROLWNE 0.67 - Tk hn Sh mgwity H c- 1% warp 1% Rc&on 3JR 0% W" 0% warp con 3 22 2.7 4.4 2.7 ' 4.4 1 1 1 2 Rano of weft & warp cdcn 3 5 hy$tm3is 6% 6% HYS-1. OM ft 3% 3% d Acceptable Area' No special care ne Control zone' May require specW em when handling and ng up ( n-b. negative shrinkage is an increase in) Sample 6 The bulk of the parameters fall within the acceptable area an the tailorability chart (Table 9).

Sample 7 This shows a higher wef t EMT than Sample 6 despite a lower warp strain.

The bulk of the parameters fall within the acceptable area on the tailorability chart (Table 9).

Sample 8 is This shows a higher wef t EMT than Sample 6 despite a lower warp strain.

The bulk of the parameters fall within the acceptable area 20 on the tailorability chart (Table 9).

Comparative Test C This test was to assess the stretch fabrics, against industry standard and a lycra product comprising 60% wool 38% polyester and 2% lyera (sample 9) The fabrics are shown in Table 10.

- 1) 21 Table 10

SAMPLE DESCRIPTION

7 Stretch 211 Twill fabric with a washable/crease retention treatment 3 Stretch plain weave fabric with a washable/crease retention treatment.

8 Stretch 2/1 Twill fabric without washable/crease retention treatment.

4 Stretch plain weave fabric without washable/crease retention treatment.

9 A lycra product comprising 60% wool, 38% polyester and 2% lycra.

Test method Pilling was assessed using the Nu-Martindale, where fabric was rubbed against itself for 1000 rubs with no weight present. The amount of pilling was assessed by comparison with SMSO standard photographs for woven fabric. A grade was awarded for 1 to 5, with 5 being the least amount of pills and 1 with the largest amount of pills visible, Table 11.

22 - Table 11 - Pilling SAMPLE GRADE 7 4/5 3 5 8 5 4 5 9 4 For abrasion the Nu-Martindale was used using 9 Kpa weights. Samples were abraded for 15,000 rubs examined and then abraded for a further 15,000 rubs, and examined again, checking took place continuously after 10,000 rubs until the end point (two broken threads), Table 12.

is However, the lycra sample was tested using B5 5690 which provides results that are comparable except that the test is terminated after 25,000 rubs.

Table 12 - Abrasion Sample End point 7 60,000 rubs 3 29,752 rubs 8 61,043 rubs 4 61,043 rubs 9 Grade 4 (after 25,000 rubs) i i i 1 Fabric mechanical properties were assessed using the full Kawabata Evaluation System. Results are shown in table 13 and 14. Handle was calculated from the fabric's surface and mechanical properties, the primary hands are based on a 1 to 10 scale, with 10 being strongest feeling and total hand values are based on a 1 to 5 scale with 5 being most favourable.

Surface and mechanical properties The KES results and control chart of the parameters of Tailorability are shown in tables 13 and 14. In particular the relatively high warp EMT and high strain of the weft EMT are noteworthy for all the samples.

is Conclusions

Tailorability The bulk of the parameters fall within the acceptable area on the Tailorability chart for all the fabrics.

Abrasion As can be seen from Table 12 all the samples show good abrasion resistance and this compares favourably with the synthetic stretch produet. In this regard, it should be noted that the elastotnetic product will be expected to perform well due to it being a wool/polyester blend and that a wool/elastomer only product would not perform as well.

TABLE 13

Test Results SAMPLE KES 7 8 4 Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft LT is tensile linearity 0.759 0.-700 0.742 0.670 0.725 0.663 0.725 0.673 MT is tensile energy (gf.cm/cm") 6.82 16.03 7.01 17.69 7.17 19.29 7.75 14. 27 RT is tensile resilience 66.1 55.7 63.8 55.2 64.1 50.8 66.6 58.0 EMT is tensile strain (%) 3.61 9.16 3.78 10.61 3.69 11.65 4.28 8.49 G is shear stiffness (gflem) 0.68 0.67 0.78 0.74 0.72 0.67 O.T5 0.75 2HG is hysteresis shear force at 0.5 (gf cm) 0.33 0.48 0.57 0.56 0.65 0. 64 0.42 0.531 2HG5 is hysteresis shear force at 5" (gf/cm) 1.28 1.40 1.49 1.55 1.36 1. 36 1.26 1.33 MIU is coefficient of fliction 0.193 0.223 0.225 0.206 0.204 0.202 0.186 0. 1 9- MMD is mean deviation of coefficient of friction 0.0144 0.0258 0.0211 0. 0272 0.0136 0.0144 0.0228 0.0364 SMD is geometrical roughness (g) 2.42 6.94 3.12 5.38 2.35.60 4.13 7.17 B is bending rigidity (g.cm1cm) 0.0697 0.0664 0.0910 0.053 0.0752 0.0610 0.0586 0.0205 2HB is bending rigidity 7g.cm/cm) 0.0236 0.0237 o.o415 0.0205 0.0266 0. 0188 0.0571 0.0198 LC is linearity of compression 0.429 0.446 0.422 0.405 WC compressional energy (gf.cm/cm 2 0.144 --iF 116 0.168 0.116 RC compressional resilience (%) 62.7 60.0 64.7 60.3 TO is thickness at max. pressure (mm) 0.515 0.433 0.513 0.429 Tm is thickness at max. pressure (nun) 0.382 0.329 0.353 0.314 EMC is compressional coefficient 25.82 24.02 31.19 26.80 w is weQ_ht (glm) 174.46 142.77 170.02 140.15 1 W 1 TABLE 14

CONTROLWNE Tk U - Weft con 0.55 3 0 Shear ngidity 0.6 0.9 Hygral -- 1% wwrp 1% Rek=don zhr 0% W" 0% CONTROL T Of tile PARANUUM FOR TAICLORABWrY ACCEIMABLE AREA (L59 0.63 ----ú -.. X3.

CON7ROLWNE 0.67 Tit linearity 1 \2\\ _.72 034 \VI.5 1 2.2 2.7 4A 2.7 4.4 1 2 1 2 WM7 =tm 3 0.95 3 6% R of weft & wwrp extension hysteresis 6% - H WW 3% A 3% ROn Acceptable Area' No speeW care mded W Control zone' bby re q care when handling and inaldng up ( n-b. negative shrinImge, is an fixteam in) Pilling There is very little difference between the results with all samples showing good grades.

All these results emphasise the excellent properties of the stretch fabric of the invention, outperforming the traditional fabrics in all respects.

FRYMA TEST METHOD This report is to assess what happens to a fabric when it is stretched under a load of 6kg, for one minute, the amount of elongation (stretch) is measured, then the is fabric is allowed to "rest" for one minute, a further measurement is taken to assess what % recovery has taken place (ie has the fabric returned to its original length) The results are shown in table 15.

The results show stretch fabrics in accordance with the invention extending to between 12.7% and 14.2%, which is similar to fabrics containing Lycra for mens and ladies formalwear. The major difference between the stretch fabrics and ones containing Lycra, is the recovery figure, which on the stretch fabrics is 0.8% and 0.3% c.f. standard woven wool and wool lycra blends having maximum residual extension of up to 3%, which is far worse than the stretch product. This would suggest that after a time the elastomeric product looses its elasticity and causes "bagging" to occur at the knee, elbow and seat.

Table 15

Method Test Title Property Unit Example Example 1 2 Fryma Stretch & Non Weft stretch % 12.7 14.2 recoverable Weft NRE % 0.3 0.8 Note: A 6kg load has been applied during this test.

Table 16 shows the results of the same method on nonstretch fabrics for comparative purposes.

The two traditional fabrics do not extend as the stretch product and their recovery figure is considerably higher.

Table 16

Method Test title Property Unit Sample Mohair A Wool B FRYMA Stretch Weft % 9.80 91. 4 non stretch recoverable Weft NRE % 1.50 1.70 extension JO Note: A 6kg load has been applied during this test.

The reader's attention is directed to all papers and documents which are filed concurrently with or previous to this specification in connection with this application and which are open to public inspection with this

28 - specification, and the contents of all such papers and documents are incorporated herein by reference.

All of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), and/or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined in any combination, except combinations where at least some of such features and/or steps are mutually exclusive.

Each feature disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), may be replaced by alternative features serving the same, equivalent or similar purpose, unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is one example only of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.

The invention is not restricted to the details of the foregoing embodiment (s). The invention extends to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the features disclosed in this specification (including any accompanying claims, abstract and drawings), or to any novel one, or any novel combination, of the steps of any method or process so disclosed.

16\

Claims (1)

1. CIAIMS:

   A process for the production of a stretch worsted fabric comprising the steps of:- under setting the warp by at least 13% during fabric production and shrinking the fabric at a temperature of at least 6CC t-o set the width during the finishing process.

   A process according to claim 1, wherein the shrinking of the fabric is at a temperature of between 60'>C100,1C.

   3.

   A process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp is under sett by between 13-35%.

   4. A process according to any of claims 1 to 3 wherein the finishing process incorporates the further step of KD setting at a temperature of at least 1000C.

   5. A process according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weft is under sett during the production process by a suitable amount to allow for the additional shrinkage finishing step acting on the weft.

   6. A process according to claim 5, wherien the weft is under sett by at least 6%.

   7. A process according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein to further allow for the additional shrinkage in the fibres the loom width is sett wider than normal rigid f abric.

   8. A process according to claim 7, wherein the loom width is at least 3% wider than a rigid worsted fabric of corresponding final finished width.

   9. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein after finishing, the worsted fabric looses between 540% of its original loom width.

   A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the finishing process additionally includes any one or more of the usual finishing steps for worsted fabric including:- scouring step; tenter and drying step; steam relaxing step; super finishing step; conti press; and Hoffmann press il.

   A worsted fabric comprising a series of weft fibres and a series of warp fibres wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 11% of the unstretched width.

   12. A worsted fabric according to claim 11, wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 12%.

   i i X 13. A worsted fabric comprising a series of weft fibres and a series of warp fibres wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide an additional stretch in the weft direction of a least 9% of the unstretched width.

   14. A worsted fabric according to claim 13, wherein the additional stretch is between 9% and 40% of the unstretched width of the fabric.

   15.

   A worsted fabric prepared in accordance with any of claims 1 to 10.

   16. A worsted fabric or a process according to any preceding claim, wherein the additional crimp is set into the fabric by means of combining a shrinking process and a KD setting step.

   17. A worsted fabric according to any of claims 11 to 16, wherein the fabric has been subjected to a shrinking process and/or a KD setting set according to any of claims 1 to 10.

   18. A process according to any of claims 1 to 10 or 16 to 17, wherein the shrinking and KD steps may be followed by a steam releasing step.

   19. A process as hereinbefore described with reference to the drawings.

   20. A worsted fabric as hereinbefore described with reference to the drawings.

   -I L- 21. A method of producing garments using a worsted fabric according to any of claims 11 to 17 or 20.

   22. A garment comprising a worsted fabric according to any of claims 11 to 17 or 20.

   A method or garment according to claim 21 or 22, wherein the garment is tailored.

   24. A method or garment according to claim 23, wherein the garment is a suit or jacket.

   A method or garment according to claim 23, wherein the garment is a skirt, pair of trousers, dress or coat 26. A process, method, worsted fabric or garment wherein there is stretch of at least 11% not provided by lycra f ibres.

   27. A process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp is under sett by between 15-25%.

   28. A process according to any of claims I to 3, wherein the finishing process incorporates the further step of KD setting at a temperature of at least 130'C.

   29. A process according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weft is under sett during the production process by 7-11%.

   30. A process according to claim 7, wherein the loom width is sett between 5-15% wider than a rigid worsted fabric of corresponding final finished width.

   53 31. A process according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein after finishing, the worsted fabric loses between 830% of its original loom width.

   32. A worsted fabric according to claim 11, wherein the weft threads are sufficiently crimped to provide a weft stretch of at least 16%.

   33. A worsted fabric according to claim 13, wherein the additional stretch is at least 12% of the unstretched width of the fabric.

   34. A process according to claim 4, wherein the KD setting is carried out in the range 130-150'C.