GB2157625A - Degradé technique on natural furs - Google Patents

Abstract

A novel technique for manufacturing garments shells and plates from long-haired fur skins having dark-coloured backs and pale-coloured flanks to effect a degradé effect after stranding. The skins are cut and sewn together again so as to show patterned areas of dark and light fur.

Description

SPECIFICATION Degrade technique on natural furs A novel technique for manufacturing garments shells & plates from long-haired fur skins having dark-coloured backs and pale-coloured flanks to effect a degrade effect after stranding Preamble The purpose of the operation is to produce a final strand of fur which, unlike the panel which results from the conventional let-out operation, produces an effect on the fur side of coloured graduation, from pale at top (head) to dark at the bottom (rump). For the purpose of initial exposition a Natural Black Musquash skin is taken as example. When the skin is opened by cutting vertically through the centre flank a flat panel results (Figure 1). The shaded centre section possesses a dark, broad, long hair and the flank (sides) are of a shorter, gold-hued hair.

The process of stranding can be described as a series of 'V' or 'A' shaped cuts along the length of the skin which, when rearranged and machinesewn, results in a long narrow strand' retaining the general characteristics of the fur but in a different form, i.e. a dark centre and pale flank (Figure 2) When such strands are matched and sewn side by side in a conventional garment the appearnce (Figure 3) is of a centre-striped effect from top to bottom (head to rump) with pale sides.

The effect of this unique cutting process is to produce a strand in which the dark centre stripe does not extend the complete length of the strand but obtains a graduated effect from a completely pale top to a dark bottom - thus producing a degrade colouring (Figure 4), the darker-shaded centre appearing gradually from a point along the length of the skin.

Method For example, a dressed Natural Black Musquash skin is taken and opened accurately along the centre flank; the skin then opened resembles Figure 1. It is then stretched flat. A second accurate cut is made a long the centre back of the skin dividing it into two sections.

The purpose then is to rearrange the presented sections of coloured hair so that the paler portion of the skin appears at the top (head) of the skin and the darker portion of the skin appears at the bottom. As the depth and character of the hair along the length and breadth of the skin vary considerably and as the hair colouring varies laterally not longitudinally on the pelt this requires careful cutting and manipulation. The process is accomplished as follows: Six cuts are made per half skin vertically at points illustrated in Figure 5, and the flank sections (running out from the centre) are moved upwards three-quarters of an inch per section, care being taken at head and rump sections to cut between similar hair characteristics.The cuts should be approximately three-eights of an inch apart depending on original size of skin, and must be placed with accuracy otherwise "jumps" in hair length will occur (Figure 6).

It can thus be seen that the resulting rearrangement allows the pale flank of the skin to resite at the top of the panel and the back centre sections to transfer to the bottom of the panel. The pointed centre rump and the squared flank points (shaded in Figure 6) are then removed, as are the corners marked 'A'. A half- skin panel then results in the shape of Figure 7. The half-skins are then nailed, being pulled in the length. When dry the panels should be stranded in a half 'A' cut manner as illustrated, (Figure 7), allowing for a slightly larger let-out at the centre (bulge) of the panel to effect an even strand. The resulting let-out strand produces a degrade effect (Figure 8). This novel cutting operation can be applied, for example, to long- haired skins of the Musquash, Raccoon and all fur skins possessing similar characteristics.

Schedule to drawings Figure 1-1 Head 2 Rump 3 Flank Figure 2 - Illustrating conventional strand 1 Head 2 Rump Figure 3 - 1 Head 2 Rump Figure 4 - 1 Head 2 Rump 3 Flank 4 Pale 5 Dark shading begins here Figure 5 - Illustrating half skin 1 Centre 2 Flank 3 Head 4 3 1/2 cm (1 1;2 inches) 5 5 cm (2 inches 6 Hair flow Figure 6 - Half skin after re-siting and sewing 1 Head 2 Centre 3 Flank 4 Cut widths 1 cm (3/8ths inch) 5 Balance marks 2 cm (3/4 inch) 6 Pale 7 Dark 8 Corners Figure 7 - Illustrating half skin panel showing cor rect stranding cut after nailing in length 1 Hair flow 2 Head 3 Rump 4 Flank 5 Centre Figure 8 - Illustrating section of panel or garment showing degrade effect Upper section completely pale

Claims (5)

1. A method of obtaining a unique effect on the hair side of certain fur skins which have the natural characteristics of broad dark centre markings and pale flanks.

2. The method achieves, after stranding, a degrade effect on the hair side differing from a strand produced in a conventionel manner.

3. The degrade process produced by this method enables a strand of fur to be achieved with the effect of a coloured graduation from pale to dark along its length.

4. This effect, hitherto only produced by a dyeing process on a fur skin, is, in this method, produced on a natural fur skin utilising the natural colouring of the hair without resort to dye.

5. The method is produced by a series of certain accurately-placed cuts on the pelt and the rearrangement and sewing of the sections prior to the stranding process.