GB1483040A - Seaming of fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

1483040 Knitting machines; weaving machines NATIONAL RESEARCH DEVELOPMENT CORP 6 Aug 1974 6506/73 Headings D1C, DIE and D1K Knitting or weaving machines produce two adjacent fabrics which are joined by seaming yarns progressively shifting across a multiplicity wales/warps so as to produce garments or parts thereof. Knitting machines. A double bar raschel warp machine includes full set guide bar controlled by pattern drum 18 and chain 19. Additional guide bars 14A, B....17A, B are provided with guide eyes to knit the seams. These, bars are shogged by a pinion 30 of a stepping motor at the dictates of a switch on the main shaft or pattern drum. The extent and direction of movement are controlled by a tape reader, or optical scanner. As shown the seams are produced by guide eyes 16A, B; 17A, B of outside guide bars which lap both needle bars, or merely the oposite bar. Eyes 14A, B; 15A, B with coloured threads, or dye applicators, mark cutting lines. Alternatively the seams may be produced by opposed movement of a pair of inside guide eyes, which lap the opposite needle bars and cross between them. Alternatively the seaming guide eye can be fixed to a bar slidable in, but selectively clamped to, a guide bar. In a further embodiment the guide eye is movable by a lead screw, turned by a carriage reciprocated by the pattern chain and selectively engageable with barrel cams on the screw. Weaving machines. In a weaving machine producing fabrics 35, 36 a number of inverted F-shaped fingers 48 are movably mounted on horizontally and vertically movable slides on the going parts. The vertical slides are attached to arms 50 pivoted on the machine frame; horizontal movement of slides is controlled via a plunger 53 running on a ratchet 54. The fingers are fixed to nuts carried on screws so that superimposed on this horizontal movement is a shogging movement to produce a contoured seam. The screws are turned by rotary solenoids at each end, and controlled by punched tape or optically scanned representations of the seam profile. In operation, as the going part moves rearwards, the fingers are lowered; as it goes forwards the fingers are raised and the yarn tensioned to pull the fabrics together. At alternate beat up the fingers move on trick space across the race board, to carry the yarn across the top of the warps. The superimposed movement follows the seam profile of the garment.