FR3163840A1 - Composition comprising a combination of at least one fatty substance, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkaline agent - Google Patents

Abstract

A composition comprising a combination of at least one fat, an oxidation coupler, and a mineral alkali. The invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more oxidation couplers, and one or more mineral alkali, the composition being free of an oxidation base.

Description

Composition comprising a combination of at least one fatty substance, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkaline agent

The invention relates to a composition comprising the association of a fatty substance in a particular content, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkaline agent, the composition being free of oxidation base.

The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.

For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to cover their gray hair.

It is known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors using dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, including oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds that, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.

It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.

The permanent hair coloring process involves applying bases or a mixture of bases and couplers to the keratin fibers, using hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent. The mixture is then allowed to diffuse, and the fibers are rinsed. The resulting colors have the advantage of being permanent, vibrant, and resistant to external factors, including light, weathering, washing, perspiration, and friction.

However, efforts are still underway to increase the efficiency of the oxidation dye reaction used in this process in order to improve their uptake by keratin fibers. Indeed, such an improvement would make it possible to reduce the concentration of oxidation dyes in dye compositions and/or eliminate the need for certain dye families, particularly para-phenylenediamines such as para-phenylenediamine and para-toluenediamine, and to use other dye families with lower coloring power, while still achieving good coloring performance.

In this regard, it has already been proposed to eliminate the need for oxidation bases by using only couplers, possibly boosted by metallic catalysts, but this type of process does not provide complete satisfaction in terms of dyeing properties. The resulting dyeing power is not yet entirely satisfactory.

There is a real need to make available a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e., one which is capable of leading to intense coloring with good tenacity as well as good coverage of white hair and good selectivity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage.

These and other goals are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- one or more mineral alkaline agents;
- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers;
the composition being free of oxidation base.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to produce powerful, intense and non-selective colorations, that is to say, colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. It also allows for good color penetration.

This composition also provides particularly good coverage for depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Fatty body

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "fats" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fats have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least six carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the useful fats according to the invention are non-siliconized.

The term "non-siliconized fat" refers to a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds, and "siliconized fat" refers to a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

Preferably, the fats according to the invention are different from fatty acids.

The useful fats according to the invention can be liquid fats (or oils) and/or solid fats.

Liquid fats are defined as fats with a melting point of 25°C or less at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and solid fats are defined as fats with a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to C16, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids in particular have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As for liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

Perhydrosqualene is one example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

As for fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-Ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

Within this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also include, as fatty acid esters, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids ranging from C6 to C30, preferably from C12 to C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, particularly alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, including mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

One example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.

The silicone oils usable in composition A according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 at 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10-5 at 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from among polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those with a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more specifically from:
(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed notably under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.
We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
(ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferred.

These silicone oils are specifically chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, the most notable of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited, but are not limited to:
- SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA;
- oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2/s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group.

With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group, they can notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from ^1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA;
- the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product;
- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes containing:
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in C1 to C4;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydroxyl groups.

The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In particular preference, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

We can also use C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohol esters.

Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, Octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, including myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, including myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, upon lowering the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can notably mention isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, one can also use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; Examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

Ceramides or their analogues that may _be used preferably conform to the following formula: _R3CH (OH)CH( _CH2OR2 )( _NHCOR1 ), in which:
R ₁ designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;
R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R ₃ designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ₃ may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R ₂ designates a hydrogen atom and R ₃ designates a linear group saturated at C15.

Preferably, ceramides are used where R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R ₂ designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ₃ designates a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

We can also use compounds for which R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

Other particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; and 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol. 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats and one or more solid fats, preferably at least one liquid hydrocarbon comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and at least one solid fatty alcohol.

Preferably, the total content of the fat(s) is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the total content of the liquid fat(s) selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oxidation couplers

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers (or coupling agent).

Among the oxidation couplers, we can in particular mention meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.

Examples include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine. 3,4-Hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and corresponding mixtures, the solvates, the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, preferably further from 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

The addition salts of oxidation couplers are notably chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonium hydroxide, amines or alkanolamines.

Preferably, the content of oxidation couplers varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is free of oxidation base, that is to say it comprises less than 0.001% by weight of total oxidation base, preferably less than 0.0001% by weight, even better comprises none at all (0%).

Examples of such oxidation bases include para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their corresponding addition salts.

Examples of para-phenylenediamines include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, and 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline. 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

Examples of bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines include N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

Examples of para-aminophenols include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

Examples of ortho-aminophenols include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, their corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

Examples of heterocyclic bases include derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

Among the pyridine derivatives are the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

Other pyridine oxidation bases are also found, for example, the oxidation bases of 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that can be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; the corresponding addition salts and their solvates.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, the corresponding addition salts and solvates. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be mentioned.

Among the pyrazole derivatives, we can also mention diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones, and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

Mineral alkaline agent

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more mineral alkali agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agent" are used interchangeably.

The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or hydrogen carbonates (or bicarbonates) of ammonium, of alkali or alkaline earth metals, phosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals and mixtures thereof.

Ammonium carbonates and hydrogen carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metals may be chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium, potassium, ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates and mixtures thereof.

Alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates can be selected from sodium phosphates, potassium phosphates and mixtures thereof.

The hydroxides of alkali or alkaline-earth metals can be chosen from sodium hydroxides, potassium hydroxides and their mixtures.

Alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates can be selected from among sodium silicates, including sodium metasilicate, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the mineral alkali agent is ammonium hydroxide.

The total content of the mineral alkali agent(s) varies preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight, even better from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total ammonium hydroxide content varies preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight, even better from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

These can preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

An "anionic surfactant" is defined as a surfactant containing only anionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: _CO2H , _CO2- , _SO3H , _SO3- , _OSO3H , _{OSO3- , H2PO3 , HPO3-} , ^PO32- , _H2PO2 , _HPO2- , _PO22- , ^POH and PO- _.

Examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C1-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably contain 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferred, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

With regard to mild anionic surfactants, the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures, may be mentioned in particular: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D-galactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters.

In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE), marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates and acylglutamates are preferred, more preferably sulfated anionic surfactants, and even more preferably alkylsulfates.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, used alone or in mixtures:
- alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;
- alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains;
- C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;
- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- fatty acid and sucrose esters,
- esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated;
- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan,
- C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan,
- alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters,
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;
- N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides.

They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(C1-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; and amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The esters (in particular mono, di, and tri-esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from:
Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) is/are selected from C12-C18 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular from oxyethylenated lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and sorbitan esters.

Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan is/are selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), tristearate of sorbitan oxyethylenated (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65), sorbitan oxyethylenated (20 OE) trioleate (POLYSORBATE-85).

The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof, preferably from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, and even better from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.

The cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Examples of usable fatty amines according to the invention include stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include, for instance:
- those meeting the following general formula (X):
(X)
wherein groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of groups R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens.
Aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups and C1 alkoxy groups.₁-C₃₀, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-C₆), C-alkylamide₁-C₃₀, alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)amidoalkyl(C₂-C₆), alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl in C₁-C₃₀,X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)- or alkyl(C₁-C₄)aryl-sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those with the following formula ( XI ):
(XI)
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, ^phosphates , acetates, lactates, alkyl( _C1 - _C4 )sulfates, alkyl( _C1 - _C4 )- or alkyl( _C1 - _C4 )aryl-sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example, derived from tallow fatty acids; R14 designates a methyl group; and R15 designates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of the following formula ( XII ):
( XII )
in which R16 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms possibly hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18 , R19 , R20 and R21 , identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula ( XIII ):
( XIII )
in which: R22 is chosen from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer worth from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers worth from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 15, that when x is worth 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z is worth 0 then R25 designates R29.
R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide, or iodide, an alkyl(C1-C4)sulfate, alkyl(C1-C4)-, or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used.
The X- anion is more specifically chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in particular, wherein: R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Examples of compounds with formula (XIII) include salts, notably the chloride or methylsulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most often derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol.
Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180, can also be used.
One can also use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among cationic surfactants, preference is given to cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from among non-ionic surfactants, better from among the ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, even better, from among the ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

When the composition includes one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the composition varies preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition includes one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition varies preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening agent

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more thickening agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, a thickening agent is understood to be an agent which, by its presence in the composition, increases the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 ^s⁻¹ . This viscosity can be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

The thickening agent(s) may, in particular, be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from _C10 - _C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanol-amide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), associative polymers, thickening polymers other than associative polymers and in particular non-ionic cellulosic polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Thickening polymers can be chosen from associative and non-associative polymers.

For the purposes of this invention, " associative polymers " means water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous environment, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure includes hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The associative polymer(s) usable according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TR1 or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.

Preferably, associative polymers can be chosen from cellulosic polymers.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups having at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in _C8 - _C22 , and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof, and even better polyquaternium-67.

Thickening polymers can also be chosen from non-associative polymers, and in particular non-ionic cellulosic polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Among non-associative polymers, one can also choose anionic (meth)acrylic polymer such as homo- or co-polymers of (met)acrylic acid. For example, compounds with the INCI name Carbomer can be cited.

Preferably, non-associative polymers are chosen from guar gum, xanthan gum, homo- or co-polymers of (meth)acrylic acid.

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from non-associative thickening polymers, more preferably from guar gums.

The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be non-ionic or cationic.

According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums can be used.

Non-ionic unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

The modified non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention are preferably modified by C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

Examples of hydroxyalkyl groups include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

Also suitable are non-ionic guar gums modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, more especially hydroxypropyl, modified by groups having at least one _C6 - _C30 fatty chain. As an example of such compounds, we can cite among others the product ESAFLOR HM 22® (alkyl chain at _C22 ) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18® (alkyl chain at _C14 ) and RE205-1® (alkyl chain at _C20 ) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.

The cationic guar gums most particularly suitable for use according to the invention are guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2 to 30%, and even more preferably 5 to 20% by number, of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy.

Even more preferentially, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.

According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride is preferably used.

These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are described for example in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,0131,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL.

Preferably, a non-ionic guar gum is used and, among these non-ionic guar gums, more particularly those guar gums modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.

When the composition includes one or more thickening agents, the total content of thickening agent(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition includes one or more thickening polymers, the total content of thickening polymer(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition includes one or more guar gums, the total content of guar gum(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition includes one or more non-ionic guar gums, the total content of non-ionic guar gum(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Catalysts

The composition according to the invention may include one or more catalysts in order to accelerate the oxidation reaction of the oxidation couplers.

Preferably, the catalysts are metallic catalysts.

Metallic catalysts are compounds that include one or more metals in their structure.

In particular, the metals are chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals and rare earth metals.

Among the alkali metals, we can notably mention potassium, sodium, lithium, and particularly potassium.

Among the alkaline earth metals, we can notably mention magnesium, calcium, and strontium.

Among the transition metals, we can notably mention manganese, iron, cobalt, copper, zinc, platinum, nickel, titanium, silver, zirconium, chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, platinum, gold, vanadium and among these particularly manganese.

Among the rare earth metals, cerium is a notable example.

Thus, metallic catalysts include catalysts based on alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals and rare earth metals, and more particularly catalysts based on potassium, manganese, vanadium or cerium.

The metallic catalysts used can be chosen from metallic salts, metallic oxides, metallic complexes and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of this invention, metallic complexes are understood to be systems in which the metal ion, i.e., the central atom, is linked to one or more electron donors, called ligands, by means of chemical bonds. Examples include porphyrins and phthalocyanines, particularly cationic porphyrins.

Preferably, metallic catalysts are chosen from metal salts.

For the purposes of the present invention, metal salts are defined as salts resulting from the action of an acid on a metal.

Preferably, metallic catalysts are chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, such as manganese salts, and rare earth metal salts, such as cerium salts, as well as mixtures thereof.

Metallic salts can be inorganic or organic salts.

According to one variant, the metal salts are inorganic and can be chosen from halides, carbonates, sulfates and phosphates, including hydrated or non-hydrated halides such as iodides.

According to another preferred variant, the metal salts are of oxidation state II and have two ligands derived from (poly)hydroxy acid.

The term "(poly)hydroxy acid" refers to any carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and/or linear, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and comprising from 1 to 4 carboxylic groups –C(O)-OH, at least one of which –C(O)-OH is in the carboxylate form –C(O)-O- complexed with the metal atom, preferably Mn(II). More specifically, the metal salt is complexed by two carboxylate groups such as that of formula (IA) :

RC(O)-OMOC(O)-R' (IA)
as well as its solvates such as hydrates and their enantiomers,

Formula (AI) in which:
- M represents a metal (II) or metal2+ of oxidation state 2,
- R and R', identical or different, represent a (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl group.

In particular, metallic catalysts are chosen from organic acid salts of transition metals, especially manganese, and inorganic salts of rare earth metals, especially cerium.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the manganese-based catalyst is not an oxide but a salt of manganese.

Organic metal salts can be more specifically chosen from among organic acid salts such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates, especially gluconates.

Preferably, the metallic catalysts are chosen from potassium iodide and manganese gluconate, preferably potassium iodide.

The catalysts, preferably metallic, may be present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.001 to 2% by weight, better ranging from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solvents

The composition according to the invention may also include one or more organic solvents.

Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched _C2 to _C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof different from those previously described, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

The above additives can generally be present in quantities of between 0 and 20% by weight of each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include chemical oxidizing agents.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- ammonium hydroxide;
- one or more oxidation couplers preferably chosen from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof;
the composition being free of oxidation base.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- ammonium hydroxide;
- one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; and
- one or more surfactants,
the composition being free of oxidation base.

Process

The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the resulting composition to the hair.

More specifically, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and mixtures thereof. Hydrogen peroxide is the preferred chemical oxidizing agent.

The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

It may also include one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; these, when present, represent more particularly 0.1 to 40% by weight, and preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition also preferably includes one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

In addition, the oxidizing composition may include one or more fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

Preferably, at least one of the coloring or oxidizing compositions is aqueous.

Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the hair a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:
a) a coloring composition comprising:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- one or more mineral alkaline agents;
- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers;
- the coloring composition being free of oxidation base;
And,
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the hair, at the time of use, a composition resulting from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a) a coloring composition comprising:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- ammonium hydroxide;
- one or more oxidation couplers preferably chosen from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof;
the composition being free of oxidation base;
And,
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

The invention also relates to a composition comprising:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- one or more mineral alkali agents, preferably ammonium hydroxide;
- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers;
- one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, - the coloring composition being free of oxidizing base,
this composition being a ready-to-use composition.

This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above.

Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.

According to one embodiment, the coloring process includes a step of applying to the keratin fibers the coloring composition defined previously and one or more catalysts defined previously.

The coloring composition and the catalyst(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers together or separately.

As described previously, the catalyst may be contained within the coloring composition.

Alternatively, the catalyst may be contained in a composition C, separate from the coloring composition.

Composition C, comprising one or more catalysts, can be applied to the keratin fibers prior to the application of the coloring composition.

Alternatively, composition C can be mixed with the coloring composition, preferably the ready-to-use composition, the resulting mixture being applied to the keratin fibers.

Composition C may also include water.

Composition C may further include a thickening agent as described above.

Kit

Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device for coloring keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above, and optionally at least a third compartment containing at least one composition C comprising one or more catalysts as defined previously.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means of delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being intended to be limiting.

Examples

In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Compositions A

Composition A1 according to the present invention and the comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

A1 (invention) A2 (comparative) AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 3.62 - ETHANOLAMINE - 4.88 ASCORBIC ACID 0.12 0.12 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0.22 0.22 MINERAL OIL 60 60 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL 5 5 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 1 1 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.24 1.24 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 3.02 3.02 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 1 EDTA 0.2 0.2 water QSP 100 QSP 100

Oxidizing composition

Oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

B HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 STEARETH-20 5 PEG-4 RAPESEEDAMIDE 1.2 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 MINERAL OIL 20 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.2 GLYCERIN 0.5 HEXADIMETHRINE CHLORIDE 0.15 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 Phosphoric Acid QSP pH 2.2 Water QSP 100

Coloring protocol

Compositions A1 and A2 are each mixed with oxidizing composition B in the weight ratio 1+1.5.

A1+B (invention) A2+B (comparative) pH mixture 1+1.5 9.3±0.2 9.3±0.2

Each of the mixtures is applied to strands of hair that are 90% natural white (BN) at a ratio of 5g of mixture to 1g of hair.

After 30 minutes of rest on a heated plate at 27°C, the hair strands are washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed and then dried.

Results

Colorimetric measurements were then carried out using a Zeiss INTERLOCK T 2.0/100 ZF-I 2 MACRO multispectral camera to evaluate hair colouring in the L*a*b* system.

In this system, L* represents lightness. The lower the L* value, the darker and more intense the resulting color. Chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, with a* representing the red/green axis and b* the yellow/blue axis.

The color progression is represented by the color difference ΔE between uncolored and colored hair strands, ΔE being obtained from the formula:

where L* represents the intensity, a* and b* the chromaticity of colored hair, and _L0 * represents the intensity and _a0 * and _b0 * the chromaticity of uncolored hair. The higher the ΔE value, the better the color lift.

The results are summarized in the following table.

L* has* b* ΔE Uncolored strand (control) 63.02 1.44 13.74 A1 + B (invention) 27.68 5.71 9.11 35.9 A2+B (comparative) 33.79 4.70 6.44 30.3

The mixture A1+B according to the invention leads to a lower L* value, therefore to a more powerful colouring than the comparative mixture A2 + B.

Furthermore, the A1+B mixture according to the invention leads to a higher ΔE value, and therefore to a better rise of the dyes than the comparative A2+B mixture.

The composition according to the invention has made it possible to improve the strength and intensity of the color.

Claims (16)

Composition includes:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- one or more mineral alkaline agents;
- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers;
the composition being free of oxidation base. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising one or more liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum oil, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more solid fats, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the fat or fats is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the total content of the liquid fat(s) is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total content of oxidation couplers ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mineral alkali agent is selected from ammonium hydroxide, ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium or potassium phosphates, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably ammonium hydroxide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total content of mineral alkali agent ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more surfactants, the surfactant(s) being preferably selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more catalysts, preferably one or more metallic catalysts, preferably selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, such as manganese salts, and rare earth metal salts, such as cerium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably from potassium iodide and manganese gluconate, and mixtures thereof. A method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers the coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, and optionally one or more catalysts as defined in claim 13, the coloring composition and the catalyst(s) being applied to the keratin fibers together or separately. A method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition defined according to claim 12 is obtained from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a) a coloring composition comprising:
- one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and,
- one or more mineral alkaline agents;
- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers; and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide,
the process does not use an oxidation base. A multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and optionally at least a third compartment containing at least one composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined in claim 13.