FR3162356A1 - Solid skincare and/or makeup composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, particularly those of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, and a cosmetic process for its application. More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Bismuth oxychloride particles; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (iii) At least one wax; characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and has a hardness of at least 30 Nm⁻¹.

Description

Solid skincare and/or makeup composition

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. In particular, the invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, and a cosmetic process for implementing it.

State of the art

In the field of cosmetics, consumers are increasingly looking for solid products, particularly anhydrous ones, for skin or lip care and/or makeup.

Two properties are particularly appreciated, namely:
(i) Coverage: Coverage refers to a cosmetic product's ability to conceal skin imperfections, such as blemishes, redness, or scars. A product with good coverage provides an even and smooth complexion, giving the skin a natural and flawless appearance; and
(ii) Mechanical strength: Mechanical strength refers to a product's physical resistance as a solid. For example, a makeup stick such as a lipstick must be able to withstand pressure during application without breaking or deforming. Furthermore, it must maintain its shape and consistency despite variations in temperature and humidity. These mechanical properties are essential for ensuring ease of use and product longevity.

The coverage of a cosmetic product is achieved through the use of white pigments and/or fillers. Among the pigments widely used in cosmetics, titanium dioxide stands out. This inorganic pigment, used in powder form in numerous applications, is prized for its unparalleled white color and its many other properties, such as its opacifying effect.

With evolving regulations, more and more studies are focusing on the safety of pigments for humans and the environment.

Although the use of titanium dioxide in products for topical application is not prohibited, manufacturers, particularly in cosmetics, are always looking for new compounds that can offer an alternative to the ubiquitous use of titanium dioxide that is suitable for use on the skin and hair.

In other words, manufacturers are looking for solutions to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide, particularly in existing formulations.

Prior art describes the use of other inorganic compounds, such as bismuth oxychloride or zinc oxide, to replace titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions. However, the addition of these inorganic compounds to replace titanium dioxide tends to disrupt the balance of solidity, sensory properties, and coverage in solid cosmetic compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of organic compounds needed to be added to solid cosmetic compositions to achieve a covering and opacifying power similar to that of titanium dioxide can lead to additional constraints, including changes in the shade of the cosmetic compositions.

There is therefore a need for an alternative solution that can replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions while offering satisfactory structural, application, sensorial, coverage and tint properties.

To meet this need, the invention proposes a new cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
(ii) Boron nitride particles; and
(iii) At least one wax;
characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and that it has a hardness of at least 30 Nm ^-1 .

Advantageously, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles makes it possible to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in a cosmetic composition while allowing said cosmetic composition to have good structural, application, sensorial, tinted and covering properties.

More specifically, for a given solid cosmetic composition containing titanium dioxide, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles in place of all or part of the titanium dioxide advantageously provides similar structural, application, sensorial, tint and coverage properties.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, tricalcium phosphate, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

Advantageously, the addition of particles of at least one other inorganic compound, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, makes it possible to improve the application properties, i.e. to obtain a regular film on the skin, while improving the opacity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing the composition according to the invention, including in particular a step a) of preparing a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound.

Preferably, the preparation of step a), aimed at replacing titanium dioxide, has a measured clarity on a dark background defined by a parameter L* greater than 88 and an opacity greater than 82%.

Finally, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in the invention.

Other features and advantages will become apparent from the detailed description of the invention and the examples which are purely illustrative and in no way limiting of the scope of the invention.

Detailed description of the invention Definitions

For the purposes of this invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

For the purposes of this invention, "waxes" are defined as lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (approximately 25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, upon returning the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes within the oils of the mixture, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence). For a definition of waxes, see, for example, P.D. Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, December 1983, pp. 30-33.

For the purposes of this invention, "non-polar wax" means a hydrocarbon wax and/or a silicone wax.

For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar siliconized wax" means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom

For the purposes of this invention, "polar wax" means a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

For the purposes of the invention, "anhydrous composition" means in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition according to the invention but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used in said composition.

For the purposes of this invention, "solid composition" refers to a composition exhibiting, at a temperature of 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a hardness greater than 30 ^Nm⁻¹ , preferably greater than 40 ^Nm⁻¹ . Hardness can be measured at 20°C using the "butter cutter wire" method, which assesses the firmness of a solid product by measuring, in particular, its resistance to cutting. This measurement is performed 24 hours after formulation, using a texture analyzer (TAXTPlus, MicroStable Systems, UK) equipped with a 5 kg load cell and its Butter Cutter A/BC probe (Swantech, MicroStable Systems, UK). This method measures the maximum resistance force of the solid product when the butter cutter wire penetrates to a depth of 9 mm at a speed of 1.6 mm/s. To ensure the reproducibility of the measurements, the analysis is repeated on six solid products, and the relative difference between measurements must not exceed 10%, ideally 5%. For each type of product, a reference (target) range is established to guarantee the mechanical properties of the solid cosmetic composition. The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention will generally have a hardness greater than or equal to 70g, in particular greater than or equal to 90g, for example, ranging from 100g to 400g, and preferably from 140g to 300g, and even more preferably from 175g to 250g. Such compositions (corresponding in particular to cast sticks in standard format of approximately 12.7mm) exhibit adequate stability and hardness: the stick is sufficiently rigid and solid, does not break during application and is thus compatible with packaging in stick form or in another solid form and with application by friction on the surface to be treated and/or made up; they are also characterized by ease of application such as good glide, good deposit from the first application and a comfortable texture.

For the purposes of this invention, "pasty fat" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 °C. In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty fat can be lower than 23 °C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fat measured at 23 °C can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fat. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and even more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is first heated from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C/minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C/minute, and finally heated a second time from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C/minute. During this second heating cycle, the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fat sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of a solid fat at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the solid fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a solid fat is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A solid fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline form. A solid fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 °C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the amount of energy required to change the fat in a paste form from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 °C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the solid fat measured at 32 °C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the solid fat, preferably 50 to 100%, and preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the solid fat. When the liquid fraction of the solid fat measured at 32 °C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the solid fat is less than or equal to 32 °C.

The liquid fraction of the solid fat measured at 32 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the solid fat. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C.

For the purposes of this invention, "coating" means a process by which at least one particle is covered with another substance. In the context of this invention, the particles can be coated with another substance in such a way as to facilitate their dispersion in the composition according to the invention.

For the purposes of this invention, "lipophilic gelling agents" means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of a composition.

For the purposes of the invention, "large dimension of primary particles" means the length of primary particles, for example observed from a SEM image.

For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a liquid compound at room temperature (25°C), which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

For the purposes of this invention, "shiny oil" means an oil with a refractive index greater than 1.43, preferably greater than 1.45, and even more preferably greater than 1.50. In the context of this invention, the refractive index is measured using an ABBE paralux refractometer ref 60-6400-9.

For the purposes of this invention, "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

For the purposes of this invention, "ester oil" means a mono-, di-, tri-, or tetra-ester oil. Ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri-, or more generally a polyol with a mono-, di-, tri-, or more generally a polycarboxylic acid. These reactants may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, and may optionally include alkoxylated groups. Ester oils may, in particular, be hydroxylated. Specifically, the non-volatile ester oil may comprise from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

For the purposes of this invention, "non-volatile oil" means an oil which has a boiling point generally above 300°C under 760 mm Hg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.

For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more preferably between 1.3 Pa and 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 1,000 mm Hg).

For the purposes of this invention, "lake" means organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base"). For example, Red 28 Al lake is a lake comprising an alumina base onto which the Red 28 dye is precipitated.

For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" refers to a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are typically chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils and the aqueous phase).

For the purposes of this invention, "particles" means non-nanometric particles as defined in the European Recommendation concerning the definition of nanomaterials EC 2011/696. In other words, all the particles described in the context of this invention, namely boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound, are characterized in that the median number size of the small and large dimensions of the primary particles is greater than 100 nm.

In the context of the invention, the median number size of the small dimension and the large dimension of the primary particles can be measured by electron imaging, for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in particular by means of a JEOL JSM 7100F microscope with Oxford Instrument 50mm² analysis system.

By "lamellar particle" or "platelet particle", in the sense of the invention, it is understood that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particle the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle goes from 2 to 100.

For the purposes of this invention, "small size of primary particles" means the width or thickness of primary particles, for example as observed from a SEM image.

For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).

For the purposes of this invention, "mineral pigments" means zinc oxides, iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

By "radical film-forming polymer", in the sense of the invention, we mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

For the purposes of this invention, "median number size" refers to the value corresponding to 50% by number of particles having a particular size. For example, a median number size of primary particles greater than 100 nm means that 50% by number of these particles are larger than 100 nm.

Solid cosmetic composition

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
(ii) Boron nitride particles; and
(iii) At least one wax;
said composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and that it exhibits a hardness of at least 30 Nm ^-1 .

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. In particular, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% water, preferably less than 3%, notably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even be completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is water-free.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% of titanium dioxide by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

Particles boron nitride

The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have a lamellar or platelet shape. This conformation allows the boron nitride to provide a soft and silky feel, improving the sensory experience of the composition according to the invention by facilitating its spread on the skin.

The boron nitride particles used according to the invention are boron nitride particles, as opposed to boron nitride nanoparticles.

Boron nitride particles are generally known by the INCI name: Boron nitride.

The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention have a median number size of the small and large dimensions of the primary particles greater than 100 nm, measured by electron imaging, for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in particular by means of a JEOL JSM 7100F microscope with Oxford Instrument 50mm² analysis system according to, in particular by measuring the median number size of the small and large dimensions of the primary particles according to the European Recommendation relating to the definition of nanomaterials EC 2011/696.

Notable examples include the following commercial references: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from SAFIC ALCAN /Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from IWASE/Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo, and PHUP 3000-02 from Saint Gobain.

According to one embodiment, the boron nitride particles contain more than 80% by weight of boron nitride, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99% by weight of boron nitride, or even 100% of boron nitride.

According to one embodiment, the boron nitride particles are treated so as to form a coating.

According to a particular embodiment, at least 10%, in particular at least 50%, preferably 100% of the boron nitride particles comprise a coating.

When boron nitride particles include a coating, this is chosen from a hydrophobic coating, a hydrophilic coating, a lipophobic coating or a lipophilic coating.

According to one embodiment, the coating of the boron nitride particles is a coating of natural origin.

Preferably, when boron nitride particles include a coating, the coating includes at least one molecule selected from:
*a silicone derivative preferably chosen from Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone and Methicone;
*a fatty acid ester derivative preferably selected from stearyl glutamic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester, magnesium myristate, jojoba esters, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe vera oil extract and avocado oil;
*synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or olefin-type waxes;
*natural waxes such as carnauba wax;
*silane derivatives, preferably chosen from methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane;
*silica;
*polyesters such as polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA)
*phytic acid, dihydrogen phosphate ester of inositol;
*metallic salts of fatty acids;
*metallic alkoxides;
*polysaccharides;
*alkyl titanate;
* natural or mineral oils;
*amino acids or amino acid derivatives such as lauroyl lysine alone or combined with aluminium hydroxide;
*a fatty acid derivative of stearic acid, preferably isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and
*a fluorosilane, preferably perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane.

According to a preferred embodiment, the boron nitride particles comprise a coating comprising at least one molecule selected from polysaccharides, amino acids, fatty acid ester derivatives and polyesters, even more preferably polyesters.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride particles having a coating comprising polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA).

Advantageously, the coating of the boron nitride particles used according to the invention makes it easier to disperse them within the composition.

A person skilled in the art can choose the type of coating according to the nature and intended use of the composition according to the invention.

According to one variant, the boron nitride particles do not include a coating.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a boron nitride particle content of between 0.001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a boron nitride particle content of between 0.001 and 29%. Those skilled in the art can adjust the boron nitride particle content according to the characteristics of the solid cosmetic composition, such as its color and sensory qualities.

Bismuth oxychloride particles

Bismuth oxychloride particles are in the form of a white powder that is insoluble in water.

The bismuth oxychloride particles used according to the invention are bismuth oxychloride particles, as opposed to bismuth oxychloride nanoparticles.

Bismuth oxychloride particles are generally known by the INCI name: CI 77163 (BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE).

The bismuth oxychloride particles usable according to the invention have a median size in number of the small dimension and the large dimension of the primary particles greater than 100 nm.

The median number size of the particles can be measured using an electron imaging method as described previously.

One example is the commercial reference PEARL GLO SF 1099 from the company SUN CHEMICALS.

According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles contain more than 80% by weight of bismuth oxychloride, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99% by weight of bismuth oxychloride, or even 100% of bismuth oxychloride.

According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles are treated so as to form a coating.

According to a particular embodiment, at least 10%, in particular at least 50%, preferably 100% of the bismuth oxychloride particles comprise a coating.

When bismuth oxychloride particles include a coating, this is chosen from a hydrophobic coating, a hydrophilic coating, a lipophobic coating or a lipophilic coating.

According to one embodiment, the coating of the bismuth oxychloride particles is a coating of natural origin.

Preferably, when bismuth oxychloride particles include a coating, the coating includes at least one molecule selected from:
*a silicone derivative preferably chosen from Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone and Methicone;
*a fatty acid ester derivative preferably selected from stearyl glutamic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester, magnesium myristate, jojoba esters, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe vera oil extract and avocado oil;
*synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or olefin-type waxes;
*natural waxes such as carnauba wax;
*silane derivatives, preferably chosen from methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane;
*silica;
*polyesters such as polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA)
*phytic acid, dihydrogen phosphate ester of inositol;
*metallic salts of fatty acids;
*metallic alkoxides;
*polysaccharides;
*alkyl titanate;
* natural or mineral oils;
*amino acids or amino acid derivatives such as lauroyl lysine alone or combined with aluminium hydroxide;
*a fatty acid derivative of stearic acid, preferably isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and
*a fluorosilane, preferably perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane.

According to a preferred embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles comprise a coating comprising at least one molecule selected from polysaccharides, amino acids, fatty acid ester derivatives and polyesters, even more preferably polyesters.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises bismuth oxychloride particles having a coating comprising polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA).

Advantageously, the coating of the bismuth oxychloride particles used according to the invention facilitates their dispersion within the composition. Those skilled in the art can choose the type of coating according to the nature and intended use of the composition according to the invention.

According to one variant, the bismuth oxychloride particles do not include a coating.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a content of bismuth oxychloride particles of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a bismuth oxychloride particle content of between 0.001 and 29%. Those skilled in the art can adjust the boron nitride particle content according to the characteristics of the solid cosmetic composition, such as its color and sensory qualities.

Mixture of oxychlor particles u bismuth and nitride particles boron

According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles has a weight ratio between 1:99 and 99:1.

According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles is between 40:60 and 60:40, in particular between 45:55 and 55:45, more particularly 50:50.

According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles represents a content of less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles represents a content of between 0.02 and 30%, in particular between 0.02 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles makes it possible to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions, providing in particular good coverage, good opacity, and good sensoriality to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Preferably, boron nitride particles and bismuth oxychloride particles have a coating, preferably a coating of the same nature, more preferably a coating comprising a polyester and in particular PHA.

According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles and the bismuth oxychloride particles have a different/distinct coating.

Other inorganic compounds

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, preferably in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound comprising a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide and their combinations.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises zinc sulfate and/or zinc oxide in addition to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride.

According to another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from calcium carbonate, kaolin and their combinations.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, calcium carbonate particles.

Advantageously, the addition of particles of at least one other inorganic compound, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, makes it possible to improve the mechanical strength and solidity of a stick while maintaining a satisfactory opacity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least two, in particular at least three other inorganic compounds selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

According to one embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 55%, preferably at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 85% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

According to another embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent between 50 and 95%, in particular between 65 and 95%, preferably between 80 and 95% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

Advantageously, the content of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles compared to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound is essential to exhibit characteristics similar to titanium dioxide, including satisfactory clarity and opacity.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of zinc oxide.

Waxes

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a total wax content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight, preferably between 4 and 20% by weight, in particular between 5 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax selected from a polar wax, a non-polar wax and mixtures thereof.

In particular, polar wax may be chosen from the group including beeswax, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cottonseed wax, rice bran wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, lanolin and its derivatives (alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated), kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or any mixture thereof.

We can also mention the plant ester waxes selected from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, Acacia decurrens flower wax and sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, the alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters marketed by Sophim under the trade name Phytowax, such as for example the hydrogenated lauroyl oleate esters marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a non-polar wax selected from a hydrocarbon wax, a silicone wax and mixtures thereof.

In particular, hydrocarbon-based nonpolar waxes can be chosen from polyethylene wax, such as that marketed by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalène 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H; a blend of high molecular weight linear polyethylene and ethylene/propylene copolymer, marketed by Safi-Alcan under the trade name Lipwax® PZ80-20; a synthetic wax such as that marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80; blends of synthetic and vegetable waxes, such as a blend of synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202; a blend of synthetic wax, candelilla wax, and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S; and Fischer Tropsch waxes, such as those marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, or one of their mixtures, montan wax, ceresins, ozokerites, microcrystalline waxes, mineral paraffins.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-polar silicone wax selected from C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax.

Advantageously, the presence of at least one wax in the cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to contribute with the bismuth oxychloride particles and the boron nitride particles to provide good mechanical strength to the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular when the composition is in the form of a stick, in particular a hardness of at least 30 Nm ^-1 .

Additional ingredients

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least one other additional ingredient selected from an oil, a pasty fat, a lipophilic gelling agent, a filler, a coloring matter, a film-forming polymer and mixtures thereof.

Additional ingredients – oils

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, the oil content is between 10 and 90%, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile oil

Non-volatile oils can be chosen from among non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one hydrocarbon selected from squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, synthetic (poly)esters also known as "ester oils" and (poly)ethers, in particular (poly)esters of C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile ester oil selected from:
- monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of the formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octylledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or alkyl ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;
- Diesters comprising 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohol diesters, such as diisostearyl malate; glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate;
- triesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, like triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or glycol and monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, for example that available under the trade name Cithrol-PG-32-IS from the company Croda;
- tetraesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as the polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol;
- dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer available under the trade name Hailuscent ISDA-MB by Kogyo Alcohol and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid in C8 to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in C18, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example those marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;
- fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate; C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;
- or one of their mixtures.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, this may be a shining oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may include at least one additional non-volatile oil, in addition to at least one of the aforementioned oils, chosen from diisostearyl malate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate available under the trade name Cithrol PG32IS by Croda, pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate available under the trade name LEXFEEL 700 EX-LO MB by Inolex and their combinations.

Advantageously, such additional non-volatile oils make it possible in particular to improve the good dispersion of pigments or to provide a better sensory experience to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from squalane, octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, pentaerythrityl adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecyl myristate, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isononyl isononanoate, meadowfoam seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/isostearate, diisostearyl malate, jojoba oil

volatile oil

According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil.

Volatile oils can be volatile silicone oils and/or volatile hydrocarbon oils.

The volatile silicone oils possibly used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, have in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, possibly alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than 5 cSt.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil selected from hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane or a mixture thereof.

Regarding volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can more specifically mention a short-chain hydrocarbon oil, volatile linear alkanes such as, for example, described in document FR2933865.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one short-chain hydrocarbon oil selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, dodecane or a mixture thereof.

Examples of volatile linear alkanes include those with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:
- C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,
- C15-19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15,
- C12-14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC,
- C9-12 alkane, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

Additional ingredients – fats pasty

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one pasty fat, preferably with a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, in particular between 5 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise a pasty fatty substance which may advantageously be selected from:
-Vaseline, also known as petrolatum
- lanolin and its derivatives,
- silicone compounds, polymeric or not
- Fluorinated compounds, whether polymeric or not,
- vinyl polymers, in particular homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having an alkyl group at C8-C30, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups at C8-C30, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups at C8-C30,
- liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50,
- mixtures of beeswax and octyldodecanol such as that marketed under the name Zenibee Cream by the company Zenitech,
- esters,
- vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cottonseed butter, avocado butter…
or one of their mixtures.

Among the esters, we can notably use:
- esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, especially adipic acid and glycerol condensates, in which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular those marketed under the Softisan 649 brand by the company Sasol,
- arachidyl propionate, marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
- phytosterol esters such as the product with the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by Nippon Fine Chemical Co, and "Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" marketed under the name Eldew-PS308 by Ajinomoto,
- fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, for example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate marketed under the name DUB solid by the company Stéarinerie Dubois,
- pentaerythritol esters,
- non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a C4-C50 linear or branched dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,
- aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester by an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate marketed under the name ceraphyl 28 by the company ISP (International Speciality Products),
- polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H ®, and Risocast DA-L ®,
-or one of their mixtures.

Among the additional pasty fats, phytosterol esters such as the product with the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by Nippon Fine Chemical Co, "Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" marketed under the name Eldew-PS308 by Ajinomoto, or a mixture of these, are preferred.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may include additional fatty substances having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C. The fatty substance having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C is selected from hydrogenated oils solid at 25°C or fatty esters solid at 25°C and mixtures thereof.

Among the solid hydrogenated oils at 25°C, we can mention hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil such as that available under the trade name hydrobase 32-34 by the company Prod’Hyg.

Examples of solid fatty esters at 25°C include propylene glycol myristate, myristyle myristate, and cetyl alcohol.

The fatty constituent with a melting point between 25°C and 55°C is preferably hydrogenated coconut oil.

Additional ingredients – lipophilic gelling agent

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent having a content of between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; C8 C30 fatty acid tri-esters and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent of the type of natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a hectorite as a lipophilic gelling agent, more preferably a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

More specifically, the lipophilic gelling agent can be a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example Elementis' BENTONE GEL reference with INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

Additional ingredients – Charges

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional filler, distinct from the bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound mentioned above.

Advantageously, the additional fillers make it possible to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and/or to give a mattifying and/or blurring effect.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional filler selected from synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides, polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders, cellulose powders, glass and ceramic beads, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton starch, crosslinked or not, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular to form a coating, especially by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, as described above.

According to a particular embodiment, at least one additional load is not treated and/or coated.

According to another particular embodiment, at least one additional load is treated and/or coated.

Additional ingredients – coloring matter

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one coloring material.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention includes at least one coloring material, this may be of mineral or synthetic origin, treated or not by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, organic or inorganic, soluble or insoluble in the oily or fatty phase of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, at least one colouring material is chosen from mineral pigments, organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments, mother-of-pearl, dyes and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one iron oxide.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic pigment and/or colorant, this/these may be chosen from Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a Sodium or Barium salt, or even lakes comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090); Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140); Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (Cl 15850); Red 21 lake (Cl 45380); Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), and/or their sodium or barium salts, in particular Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and their blends.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lacquer comprising a base selected from the bases of alumina (Al), barium sulfate (Ba) or calcium rosinate (Ca).

According to a more particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and/or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and/or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably further Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and/or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one mother-of-pearl, preferably a mother-of-pearl chosen from colored pearlescent pigments such as mica with iron oxides, mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type.

Preferably, the nacres usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from the commercial reference ranges of nacres Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron® and Syncristal®.

The pearlescent pigments usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g. calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate or cellulose or cellulose derivatives).

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional coloring material selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic colorants or pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition includes an additional coloring agent selected from the group consisting of:
(i) Organic dyes and pigments chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700) 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and/or their salts, in particular of Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake, and mixtures thereof; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and/or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and/or their salts, and their mixtures;
(ii) Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and/or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated;
(iii) Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow5 lake (Cl 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) and mixtures thereof;
even more preferentially the organic colorants or pigments chosen from Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) of coloring materials of between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for a skincare composition, the total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) of coloring materials is between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for a makeup composition, the total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) of coloring materials is between 0.1 and 25% by weight, preferably between 3 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

I ingredient additional - film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention may also include at least one film-forming polymer.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from synthetic polymers, radical type or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Radical-type film-forming polymers can include vinyl polymers or copolymers, particularly acrylic polymers.

Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.

Unsaturated α,β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and itaconic acid can be used as the monomer bearing the acid group. Preferably, (meth)acrylic acid, itaconic acid, and crotonic acid are used, and itaconic acid is preferred (for example, a metal salt of poly(itaconic acid) such as that marketed under the trade name REVCARE NE 100S by Itaconix).

Acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from among the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C1-C30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth)acrylates, especially C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Examples of alkyl (meth)acrylates include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, and cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Examples of hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates include hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, we can mention benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably, in the context of the invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say, some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Examples of amides of acidic monomers include (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, especially those with a C2-C12 alkyl group. Examples of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides include N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide, and N-undecylacrylamide.

Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or amides, such as those mentioned previously.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and t-butyl vinyl benzoate.

Examples of styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.

We can also mention styrene/butadiene block copolymers such as the products of the Kraton company, or OLEOFLEX EG 200 from the APPLECHEM company.

Examples of film-forming polycondensates include polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxy ester resins, and polyureas.

Polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, particularly diols.

Dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two other dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferred.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol is used from among the following: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that can be used include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylol propane.

Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner similar to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols. Ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, and meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used as diamines. Monoethanolamine can be used as an amino alcohol. Another example of a polyamide resin is DIISOSTEARYL MALATE & BIS DIOCTADECYLAMIDE DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID/ETHYLENE DIAMINE COPOLYMER, marketed as Haimalate PAM by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, where M represents a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+, or a metal ion, such as Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, or Fe3+. In particular, a bifunctional aromatic monomer bearing such a -SO3M group may be used.

The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO3M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from the rings of benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, and methylenediphenyl. Examples of bifunctional aromatic monomers further bearing an -SO3M group include sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, and 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

Copolymers based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate can be used, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

Naturally derived polymers, possibly modified, can be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or the seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® marketed by Silab), and mixtures thereof. A natural polymer such as Filmexel® notably improves the strength of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention. Other examples include film-forming polymers with the INCI names SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + BEESWAX, SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + CASTOR OIL, and SHOERA ROBUSTA + OCTYLDODECANOL. We can also mention rosine esters such as glyceryl rosinate available under the trade name NatPure GR from the company Gattefossé.

According to one embodiment, the film-forming polymer can be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).

Examples of fat-soluble polymers include copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (whose alkyl group has from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallylic ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either vinyl, allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

Examples of these copolymers include: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, 2-dimethyl-2,2-vinyl octanoate/vinyl laurate, 2-dimethyl-2,2-allyl pentanoate/vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate/vinyl stearate, and propionate of vinyl/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate/octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate/allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

As examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers, we can also mention liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the allyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from vinyl polystearate copolymers, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly(meth)acrylate copolymers, vinyl polylaurate, lauryl poly(meth)acrylate, these poly(meth)acrylates being crosslinked with methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have an average molecular weight by weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

We can also mention liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of liposoluble homopolymers include vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly(meth)acrylates, these poly(meth)acrylates being able to be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

Other examples of usable liposoluble film-forming polymers in the invention include polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated in C1 to C8 such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 alkenes and better in C3 to C20. Examples of VP copolymers usable in the invention include VP/vinyl acetate copolymer, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene (ANTARON V220 marketed by Ashland), VP/hexadecene (ANTARON V216 marketed by Ashland), VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.

We can also mention dextrin esters, and in particular:
- dextrin isostearate & isostearic acid marketed under the name UNIFILMA HVY by the company Chiba Flour Milling
– dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL TT by the company Chiba Flour Milling
- Dextrin Myristate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling

We can also mention sugar esters and in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company.

Silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, can also be mentioned; these are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature for silicone resins is known as "MDTQ," where the resin is described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, with each letter "MDTQ" characterizing a specific type of unit.

Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those marketed by Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, and by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L, or silform flexible resin.

Examples of siloxysilicate resins include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those marketed under the reference SR1000 by General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker. Other examples include trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by Shin-Etsu, "DOWSIL™ RSN-0749", and "DOWSIL™ 593 Fluid" by Dow Corning.

We can also mention copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US 5,162,410, or silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.

One can also use copolymers with a non-siliconized organic skeleton grafted by monomers containing a polysiloxane motif, such as for example the butyl acrylate /hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer marketed under the name GRANACRYSIL BAS by the company GRANT.

Finally, we can mention acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers which include a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure grafted onto a vinyl skeleton, commercially available under the references DOWSIL FA 4002 ID or DOWSIL FA 4001 CM.

One can also use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680.

As film-forming agents, natural resins, dextrin esters and rosin esters are preferred.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 1 to 15% by weight of a film-forming polymer, preferably 5 to 12% by weight of at least one film-forming polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even free from titanium dioxide, and that it has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 , in particular of at least 40Nm ^-1 .

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- Particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof;
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Optionally hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that:
(i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide;
(ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 ;
(iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- Particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof;
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Optionally hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that:
(i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide;
(ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 ;
(iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- Calcium carbonate particles
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Optionally hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that:
(i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide;
(ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 ;
(iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and calcium carbonate particles.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- Calcium carbonate particles
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Optionally hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that:
(i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide;
(ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 ;
(iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and calcium carbonate particles.

Galenic

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a skincare and/or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably for the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or a cup.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lip balm or a composition packaged in a pot or cup for the lips.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liner pencil.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger or brush, for eyebrows such as an eyebrow pencil.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge, or brush, for the eyelids such as an eyeshadow.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge, or brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas such as a complexion corrector or concealer.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.

cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even free from titanium dioxide, and that it has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 , in particular of at least 40Nm ^-1 .

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises:
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
- Boron nitride particles;
- Particles of at least one other inorganic compound chosen from among zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof;
- At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- Optionally hydrocarbon oils;
- Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent;
- Optionally, at least one coloring agent chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,
characterized in that:
(i) the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, see is free from titanium dioxide;
(ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm-1;
(iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.

Composition preparation process cosmetic according to the invention:

Also, according to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for preparing the composition according to the invention comprising the implementation of the following steps:
a) Preparation of a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound;
b) Dispersion of the preparation from step a) in at least one oil so as to form a so-called pigment paste;
c) Mixing the pigment paste from step b) with at least one wax;
d) Shaping the mixture from step c) in a suitable mold; and
e) Optionally, recovery of a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
(ii) Boron nitride particles; and
(ii) At least one wax;
comprising less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and exhibiting a hardness of at least 30Nm-1.

According to one embodiment, the preparation of step a) includes:
- Boron nitride particles;
- Particles of bismuth oxychloride; and
- Optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound chosen from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide and their combinations.

According to another preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) includes, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from calcium carbonate, kaolin and their combinations.

According to a particular embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a weight ratio between the particles of bismuth oxychloride and the particles of boron nitride of between 99:1 and 1:99 in particular between 40:60 and 60:40, preferably between 45:55 and 55:45.

According to one embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a weight ratio between bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles of 50:50.

Preferably, the boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and optionally the particles of at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a) have a coating as defined above.

According to another embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles and optionally the particles of at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a) do not have a coating.

According to one embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound of the preparation of step a).

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 55%, preferably at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 85% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound of the preparation of step a).

According to another embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent between 50 and 95%, in particular between 65 and 95%, preferably between 80 and 95% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound of the preparation of step a).

Advantageously, the content of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles relative to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a) is essential to exhibit characteristics similar to titanium dioxide, including satisfactory clarity and opacity.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a lightness measured on a black background defined by a parameter L* greater than 88 and an opacity greater than 82%. Preferably, the preparation of step a) has a lightness measured on a black background defined by a parameter L* greater than 90 and an opacity greater than 82%.

The clarity of the preparation of step a) is evaluated by measuring, on a black background, the chromaticity coordinate L* from the CIELAB color space, generally referred to as CIE 1976, using an integrating sphere spectrocolorimeter under D65 illumination.

Preferably, the preparation of step a) has a clarity L* greater than 90, in particular greater than 91, preferably greater than 95.5.

The opacity of the preparation of step a) according to the invention is evaluated by measuring its covering power using a spectrophotometer measuring a reflectance value of the composition applied on a white background (Yw) and on a black background (Yb).

Preferably, the preparation of step a) has an opacity greater than 85%, in particular greater than 87%, preferably greater than 90%, even more preferably greater than 92%.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a clarity L* greater than 91 and/or an opacity greater than 88%. According to a particularly preferred variant, the composition according to the invention has a clarity L* greater than or equal to 92, and an opacity greater than or equal to 90%.

Advantageously, the preparation of step a) exhibits a clarity and opacity similar to that of titanium dioxide.

Clarity measured on a black background, defined by an L* parameter greater than 88, and opacity greater than 82% are important parameters for evaluating the compatibility of the preparation in step a) with the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Indeed, it is essential, in order to offer an alternative to the use of titanium dioxide, that the preparation in step a) have a clarity measured on a black background, defined by an L* parameter greater than 88, and an opacity greater than 82%. Otherwise, the quantity of preparation from step a) to be added to the composition according to the invention would be too large to obtain coverage and opacity equivalent to that of titanium dioxide, thus creating an imbalance in the cosmetic composition with a significant degradation of the texture, sensory properties, and makeup result: poorer application and uneven application.

Advantageously, the preparation in step a) allows for the replacement of titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions while representing an amount approximately 3 to 4 times greater than that of titanium dioxide. In this way, the cosmetic composition containing the preparation in step a) exhibits properties similar to those of the same cosmetic composition containing titanium dioxide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation in step a) is free of titanium dioxide.

According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the composition according to the invention comprises a step a') after step a) comprising the addition to the preparation of step a) of at least one compound selected from:
- titanium dioxide;
- at least one coloring agent as defined above; and
- their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the oil used in step b) is an oil as described previously.

A person skilled in the art is able to choose a quantity and an oil suitable for the preparation of step a) and for the galenic form of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the pigment paste from step b) is mixed with at least one wax in liquid form, preferably under agitation.

Preferably, the wax from step b) is heated to a temperature between 80 and 100°C, more preferably 95°C.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigment paste from step b) is mixed with a composition comprising at least one wax and optionally at least one oil and/or at least one pasty fat as defined above.

According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises a step c’) comprising the addition within the mixture of step c) of at least one compound selected from at least one volatile oil, at least one film-forming polymer, at least one filler and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, step d) is carried out by pouring the mixture from step c) into a suitable mold.

Preferably, step d) includes the implementation of the following steps:
d1) Pouring the mixture from step c) into a suitable mold, preferably at a temperature between 85 and 90°C;
d2) Cooling of said mold, preferably in the freezer.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by implementing any one of the aforementioned embodiments of the process.

Example 1 Effect of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles on the structure and application and sensory properties of the composition according to the invention

It has been demonstrated that to achieve satisfactory covering and opacifying power in a solid cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, a quantity of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles 3 to 4 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required to obtain an equivalent covering result.

For the implementation of the protocol in example 1, all the cosmetic compositions are presented in the form of a stick.

In this example, the control formulation has a lower concentration of titanium dioxide than the concentration of boron nitride and bismuth oxychloride particles in references B and C.

The addition of this quantity of bismuth oxychloride and/or boron nitride particles tends to destructure the stick, making the deposit on the lips less homogeneous and less covering.

Surprisingly, to compensate for the deleterious effects of bismuth oxychloride particles on the stick's structure, covering power, and homogeneity, the inventors used boron nitride particles.

All the tested compositions are described in the following table: Ingredients A (control) % by weight B (excluding invention) % by weight C (excluding invention) % by weight D (according to the invention) % by weight E (according to the invention) % by weight F (according to the invention) % by weight White body – composition described in table 2 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 Dye
INCI name:
Red 7 D&C calcium lake
Trade name:
Rubin lake
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SUN CHEMICALS 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 Pigment
INCI name:
Untreated titanium dioxide
Trade name:
Hombi-tan AFDC 101
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
VENATOR 3.17 - - - - - Particles
INCI name:
Bismuth oxychloride
Trade name:
Pearl Glo SFPG1099
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SUN CHEMICALS - 9.5 - 3.8 3.51 0.97 Particles
INCI name:
Boron nitride
Trade name:
PHUP 3000-02
Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SAINT GOBAIN
INOLEX - - 7.31 5.75 5.75 8.09 Particles
INCI name:
Calcium carbonate
Trade name:
PHUP 3000-02
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
OMYASKIN KOSTENLOSES MUSTER - - - - 0.29 - Particles
INCI name:
Kaolin
Trade name:
Kaolin Whitex - - - - - 0.49 Dispersant
INCI name:
pentaery-thrityl adi-pate/ caprate /caprylate/ heptanoate
Trade name:
Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
INOLEX QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

The composition of the white body used for the creation of all the compositions in this example is described in Table 2 below. Ingredients % by weight Wax
INCI name:
ETHYLENE/PROPYLENE COPOLY-MER & SYNTHETIC WAX
Trade name:
LIPWAX PZ80-20
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
INA Trading Co. Limited
SAFIC-ALCAN SAS 18.9% Wax
INCI name:
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL & AQUA
Trade name:
CASTORWAX MP 80
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
CASCHEM 0.8 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil
INCI name:
OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE
Trade name:
ELEFAC I 205
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SACI CFPA EUROS
SUMMIT COSMETICS EUROPE
SACI CFPA (USD)
ALZO INC 16.4 lipophilic gelling agent
INCI name:
OCTYLDODECANOL & DISTEARD-IMONIUM HECTORITE & PROPYL-ENE CARBONATE
Trade name:
BENTONE GEL EUG V
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES INC 16.4 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil
INCI name:
HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE & TOCOPHEROL
Trade name:
PARLEAM
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
ROSSOW 21.83 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil
INCI name:
POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAISOSTEA-RATE
Trade name:
S-FACE IS-1009P
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
ROSSOW 13.1 Pasty fats
INCI name:
HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL
Trade name:
HYDROBASE 32-34
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
PROD'HYG 5.7 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil –
INCI name:
POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE
Trade name:
SALACOS 43N
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SACI CFPA EUROS
SUMMIT COSMETICS EUROPE 5.99 Active
INCI name:
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
Trade name:
DL-ALPHA-TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS 0.81 Antioxidant
INCI name:
PEG-8 & TOCOPHEROL & ASCOR-BYL PALMITATE & ASCORBIC ACID & CITRIC ACID
Trade name:
OXYNEX K LIQUID
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
EMD CHEMICALS INC
MERK CHIMIE SAS 0.07 100

Composition preparation protocol :

The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:
a) Preparation of a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound.

Once the mixture of each particle was carried out in accordance with table 1, several tests were performed in order to measure the covering and opacifying power of the preparation from step a).

To this end, the measurement of the clarity defined by the parameter L* and the opacity of these 6 references was carried out according to the following protocol:
Sample preparation ​
-Disperse 20% by mass of the pigment to be tested in 80% by mass of MARASTAR SR 910 E21 resin
-Homogenize the sample by manually stirring with a spatula for 5 minutes
-Pass the resulting dispersion through the EXAKT 50i three-cylinder, 1-1 gap
-Place the film onto the BYK contrast card using a BYK Byko Drive XL automatic applicator and a 50mm dumbbell
-Allow the sample to air dry for 30 minutes at room temperature
-Verify that the dry thickness is 35 +/- 5µm using a micrometer (palmer)

Measurement of L* and C on the following samples :

The parameter L* is determined by measurement using an Xrite CI62 colorimeter on white background and black background.

Opacity C is determined by measurement using an Xrite CI62 colorimeter on a white background and a black background.

The results of the measurement of clarity defined by the parameter L* and opacity are presented in Table 3 below, in particular for references E and F. Preparation of step a) of reference E Preparation of step a) of reference F Particles
INCI name:
Bismuth oxychloride
Trade name:
Pearl Glo SFPG1099
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SUN CHEMICALS
% by weight 37 10 Particles
INCI name:
Boron nitride
Trade name:
PHUP 3000-02
Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SAINT GOBAIN
INOLEX
% by weight 60 85 Particles
INCI name:
Calcium carbonate
Trade name:
PHUP 3000-02
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
OMYASKIN KOSTENLOSES MUSTER
% by weight 3 - Particles
INCI name:
Kaolin
Trade name:
Kaolin Whitex
% by weight - 5 Brightness measured on a black background, defined by the parameter L* 89.26 89.99 Opacity in % 89.59 86.17

The preparation from step a) is then dispersed in the dispersant described in Table 1 and mixed with the coloring materials, thus forming a so-called pigment paste.

The pigment paste is then mixed with the white base at 95°C. Said white base is prepared as follows:
We weigh and add all the ingredients to a melter under light stirring at 60 to 100 rpm which is heated to 96°C until a transparent liquid without solid particles is obtained.

The white body, comprising a major portion of the oils, pasty fats, modified hectorite, preservatives and waxes, is weighed and heated to 95°C. Stirring ensures homogenization immediately after heating.

Then the pigment pastes are added. The mixture is passed through a rotor-stator for good homogenization in the medium.

Additional fillers and/or film-forming agents and/or volatile oils are then added where present, and the whole is homogenized before pouring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C. The mold is left to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before being placed in the freezer for 5 minutes.

The sticks are unmolded and left to rest at room temperature in their packaging (stick).

Evaluation of the properties of the sticks obtained :

For the purposes of this example, the resulting sticks are evaluated in order to characterize the following parameters:
1 – stick structure, particularly hardness; and
2- the application and sensory properties, in particular the homogeneity of the deposit and the glide during application.

The hardness properties of the different sticks are measured at 20°C using the "butter cutter wire" method, which assesses the firmness of a lipstick by measuring, in particular, its resistance to being cut into a stick. This measurement is performed 24 hours after formulation, using a texture analyzer (TAXTPlus, MicroStable Systems, UK) equipped with a 5 kg load cell and its Butter Cutter A/BC probe (Swantech, MicroStable, UK). This method measures the maximum resistance force of the stick when the butter cutter wire penetrates to a depth of 9 mm at a speed of 1.6 mm/s. To ensure the reproducibility of the measurements, the analysis is repeated on 6 sticks, and the relative difference between measurements should not exceed 10%, ideally 5%.

The value obtained for a lipstick stick is generally between 70g and 400g, knowing that for the composition according to the invention, we are looking for a hardness as close as possible to reference A (control) while presenting satisfactory characteristics of solidity, sensoriality, homogeneity and opacity.

The results of the hardness measurement are described in Table 4 below. Reference A (witness) B (excluding invention) C (excluding invention) D (according to the invention) E (according to the invention) F (according to the invention) Hardness (g) measured 1 day after stick manufacturing 180 245 95 114 110 102

In addition, each stick was tested by a panel of experienced stick users (n=4) in order to evaluate all the sticks on the following parameters:
*Sensory experience: Perception after applying the stick to the skin; uncomfortable, tight lipstick film, felt 0/10; light, comfortable film, does not pull, not drying, 10/10
*Homogeneity: Regularity of the stick film deposited on the skin after application, very heterogeneous and discontinuous 0/10, regular and continuous 10/10
*Application: Easy to achieve a smooth, even film on the skin; lipstick is stiff, dry, and rough (0/10); smooth, non-sticky, and soft (10/10)
*Opacity: Colored stick film that hides the skin, transparent film 0/10, covering and opaque film 10/10.

The results of the study are described below: References sensory Homogeneity Applications Opacity Average A (witness) 9 9 8 10 9 (B outside of invention) 7 5 7 5 6 C (excluding invention) 8 5 4 7 6 D (according to the invention) 7 7 5 8 6.75 E (according to the invention) 9 7 7 9 8 F (according to the invention) 9 7 6 9 7.75

These results show that using boron nitride particles in a composition containing bismuth oxychloride particles, instead of titanium dioxide and in sufficient quantity to achieve equivalent coverage, compensates for the adverse effects of bismuth oxychloride particles on the structure, and more specifically on homogeneity. Furthermore, this example also demonstrates that adding another inorganic compound, such as kaolin and calcium carbonate, helps to balance the perceived characteristics of the studied parameters, such as sensory appeal and makeup results, with homogeneity of application, ease of application, and coverage of solid cosmetic compositions.

Table 6 below presents a summary of user panel comments for all sticks in this example. References Comments HAS This stick offers good sensory and makeup results. B This stick is quite rigid, however, the makeup result is unsatisfactory. In fact, it feels greasy and oily upon application, and the makeup result—both ease of application and evenness of the finish—is compromised. C This stick is quite soft, resulting in a thicker deposit. Consequently, it offers better coverage with a thick film (rather than the desired thinness) but is not evenly applied. It is not easy to apply. D This stick offers improved coverage compared to references B and C. Its rigidity is intermediate, falling between references B and C. While satisfactory, the application consistency and ease of use are not as good as those of reference A. E This stick offers a satisfying feel and opacity, with a shade and texture similar to those obtained with reference A. F This stick offers a satisfying feel and opacity, with a shade and texture similar to those obtained with reference A.

Example 2 Measuring the shade of different lipstick sticks

For the purposes of this example, lipstick sticks G, H and I are sticks made from the same white material as described in example 1.

The objective of this example is to replace the titanium dioxide present in the control stick with bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles.

All the sticks were prepared following the same protocol as described in example 1.

Several tests were carried out beforehand to determine the covering and opacifying power of the preparation comprising the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles and at least one other inorganic compound, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect.

All the sticks are prepared following the same protocol as described in example 1.

The compositions of the different sticks used in this example are described in Table 7 below. Ingredients Composition G (control)
% Composition H (according to the invention) % Composition I (according to the invention) % White body – composition described in table 2 63 63 63 Pigment
INCI name:
Titanium dioxide
Trade name:
Titanium dioxide W877
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SENSIENT COSMETIC 5.21 - - Mixture 1 - 16 - Mixture 2 - - 16 Coloring agents 21,370 14.4 14.4 Dispersant
INCI name:
pentaery-thrityl adi-pate/ caprate /caprylate/ heptanoate
Trade name:
Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
INOLEX QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

Mixture 1 consists of:
- 5% of zinc oxide particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1;
- 35% bismuth oxychloride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1; and
- 60% boron nitride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1.

Mixture 2, on the other hand, consists of:
- 3% of calcium carbonate particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1;
- 35% bismuth oxychloride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1; and
- 60% boron nitride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1.

Method for measuring colorimetric coordinates lipsticks :

Each lipstick composition is applied in eight successive passes over a contrast card with a black background.

Using a spectrophotometer, measure the colorimetric coordinates on the L*a*b* CIE 1976 chromatic space.

Definition DC: The ΔC difference is a measure of the difference in chromaticity between two colors and is calculated as follows:
∆C^*=√(a^(*^2 )+ b^* ²)

A DC value less than 2 means that the variation in shade between the references is not perceptible to the human eye.

The results of the colorimetric coordinate measurement are described in Table 8 below. DC on a black background / DC on a black background of composition G (control) Composition H (according to the invention) 1.57 Composition I (according to the invention) 1.92

The results demonstrate that the use of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles and optionally at least one other inorganic compound makes it possible to effectively replace titanium dioxide without affecting the shade despite a higher content within the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Example 3 : Coverage and opacity of a mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles in a dispersed state before incorporation into a red formulation lips :

Several tests were carried out to determine the covering and opacifying power of the mixture comprising bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride particles and optionally at least one other inorganic compound, compared to titanium dioxide, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect.

The measurement of clarity defined by the parameter L* and opacity is carried out according to the same protocol as that described in example 1.

Two compositions were used for the tests, and are presented in Table 9. Preparation J Preparation K Particles
INCI name:
Bismuth oxychloride
Trade name:
Pearl Glo SFPG1099
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SUN CHEMICALS
% by weight 5 10 Particles
INCI name:
Boron nitride
Trade name:
PHUP 3000-02
Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
SAINT GOBAIN
INOLEX
% by weight 94 87 Particles
INCI name:
ALUMINUM POWDER & SILICA
Trade name:
VISIONARY Bright Silver Sea
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
ECKART
% by weight 1 - Particles
INCI name:
BARIUM SULFATE & ISOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE & SODIUM LAUROYL ASPARTATE & ZINC CHLORIDE
Trade name:
ASI BaSO4 (PL)
Manufacturer/Distributor Name:
DAITO Kasei
% by weight - 3 Brightness measured on a black background, defined by the parameter L* 89.72 88.96 Opacity in % 89.59 83.96

The results presented in this example demonstrate that preparations J and K exhibit a clarity defined by a parameter L* and a satisfactory opacity to offer an alternative to the use of titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions.

Claims (13)

Cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride;
(ii) Boron nitride particles; and
(ii) At least one wax;
characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and that it has a hardness of at least 30Nm ^-1 . Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide. Cosmetic composition one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represents a content of between 0.001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bismuth oxychloride particles represent a content of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the boron nitride particles represent a content of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the particles of at least one other inorganic compound represent a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound particles. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total wax content is between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one other additional ingredient selected from a lipophilic gelling agent, a pasty fat, an oil, a filler, a coloring matter, a film-forming polymer and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or a cup. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer. Cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.