FR3151212A3 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING FIRST AND SECOND CATIONIC POLYMERS AND A FATTY ACID - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING FIRST AND SECOND CATIONIC POLYMERS AND A FATTY ACID The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a-1) at least one first cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one second cationic polymer; (a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (a-4) water; (b-1) at least one oil; and (b-2) at least one fatty acid, wherein the (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans, and the (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines. The composition according to the present invention is stable although it has a low viscosity. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING FIRST AND SECOND CATIONIC POLYMERS AND A FATTY ACID

The present invention relates to a composition including first and second cationic polymers, and at least one fatty acid, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

STATE OF THE ART

The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.

It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or materials with a good naturalness index and/or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

A polyionic complex, formed of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

For example, WO 2021/125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021/125069 also states that the composition therein may include oil and may take the form of an emulsion.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

If a composition includes an oil and water, the composition may be unstable due to the incompatibility between the oil and water. If the viscosity of the composition is increased, the stability of the composition may be enhanced. However, the texture of the composition may become sticky. Furthermore, if the viscosity of the composition is reduced, the stability of the composition may deteriorate.

A first objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition with reduced viscosity in which the composition comprises at least one oil and water.

Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

(a-1) at least one first cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one second cationic polymer;

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-4) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

in which

the (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans, and

the (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

The (a-1) first cationic polymer can be chosen from chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

The amount of the (a-1) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a-2) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid or salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a-4) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b-1) oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and their mixtures, and preferentially from vegetable oils.

The amount of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b-2) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C ₄ -C ₂₂ , preferably C ₆ -C ₂₀ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ .

The amount of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer, and the (b-2) fatty acid can form at least one complex.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of (a-1) at least one first cationic polymer and (a-2) at least one second cationic polymer,

in a composition comprising:

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-4) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

in order to stabilize the composition and reduce the viscosity of the composition.

After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a stable, low-viscosity composition that includes at least one oil and water, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a-1) at least one first cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one second cationic polymer;

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-4) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

in which

the (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans, and

the (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

The composition according to the present invention is stable although it has a low viscosity.

The composition according to the present invention is stable such that it does not cause phase separation and maintains a uniform appearance for a long time. Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long time.

The composition according to the present invention has a low viscosity. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good texture such as a smoother hand feeling.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.

Since the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer are respectively selected from chitosans and polylysines, both of which can be obtained from natural resources, the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer may be an environmentally friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

In addition, ingredients (a-3), (b-1) and (b-2) may be derived from renewable materials such as plants and/or biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a-1) at least one first cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one second cationic polymer;

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-4) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

in which

the (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans, and

the (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

In the composition according to the present invention, at a minimum, the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer, and the (b-2) fatty acid can form at least one complex.

A positively chargeable and/or positively charged moiety such as an amino (-NH ₂ ) or ammonium (-NH ₃ ⁺ ) group of the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer can ionically interact with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO ^- ) group of the (b-2) fatty acid to form the complex. The complex includes at least one hydrophobic moiety derived from the fatty moiety of the (b-2) fatty acid. Therefore, the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-2) fatty acid to form the complex.

The complex of the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer and the (b-2) fatty acid may be present at the interface between a fatty phase comprising the (b-1) oil and an aqueous phase comprising (a-4) water. The fatty phase may be stabilized by the above complex. Thus, the aggregation of the fatty phases may be prevented. This stabilization may be ensured without a conventional surfactant. In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion which may also be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

According to the present invention, the (b-1) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of complexes of the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer and the (b-2) fatty acid. In other words, the (b-1) oil may be covered by the above complexes. The complexes may be in the form of particles. Thus, the (b-1) oil may be covered by the particles comprising the above complexes.

The (b-1) oil which is surrounded by the above complexes of the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer and the (b-2) fatty acid cannot directly contact a keratinous substance such as skin. Thus, even if the (b-1) oil has a sticky or greasy feeling upon use, the composition according to the present invention would not provide a sticky or greasy feeling upon use.

(First cationic polymer)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-1) at least one first cationic polymer. A single type of first cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of first cationic polymers may be used in combination.

A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-1) first cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq/g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq/g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) first cationic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, more preferably 3,000 or more, and even more preferably 4,000 or more.

The (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans.

It is preferred that the chitosan has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably, greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a-1) first cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, more preferably, less than 300,000.

Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably, greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means average molecular weight. Molecular weight may be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a β-type bond (1,4).

The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1→4).

“Chitosan” according to the present invention means any copolymer formed from N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β (1,4) type bonds and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.

More preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger .

The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger and/or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and/or Agaricus bisporus . Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger .

Chitosan can be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is, it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

A process for the preparation of chitosan is that described in WO03/068824.

Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

The amount of (a-1) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a-1) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a-1) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Second cationic polymer)

The composition according to the present invention includes (a-2) at least one second cationic polymer. Only one type of second cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of second cationic polymers may be used in combination.

A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-2) second cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq/g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq/g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-2) second cationic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, more preferably 3,000 or more, and even more preferably 4,000 or more.

The (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysine can be an α-polylysine or ε-polylysine. For example, polylysine can be an ε-polylysine, such as ε-Poly-L-lysine commonly used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in different forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and/or a solution.

The amount of the (a-2) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a-2) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a-2) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Non-polymeric monovalent acid or salt thereof)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.

The term "non-polymeric" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.

The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of a suitable base or bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base or bases according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

It is preferable that the molecular weight of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid or a salt thereof is less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.

The (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (a-4) water. The (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a-1) first cationic polymer and/or the (a-2) second cationic polymer in (a-4) water.

The monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid has only one acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group and a mixture thereof.

The (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.

It is preferable that the (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

The monovalent non-polymeric acid may be chosen from hydroxy acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids that may be mentioned include, for example, salicylic acid.

Thus, the monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric (a-3) acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-4) water.

(a-4) Water may form an aqueous phase which may be a continuous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (a-4) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of (a-4) water may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a-4) water may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The (b-1) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The (b-1) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C _{26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols,} the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Also useful are esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C ₆ - C ₃₀ , and preferably in C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes cycliques comprenant de 3 à 7 et de préférence, de 4 à 5 atomes de silicium. Il s’agit, par exemple, de l’octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane vendu en particulier sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7207 par Union Carbide ou Silbione® 70045 V2 par Rhodia, du décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7158 par Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 par Rhodia, et du dodécaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Silsoft 1217 par Momentive Performance Materials, et leurs mélanges. On peut également citer les cyclocopolymères du type diméthylsiloxane/méthylalkylsiloxane, tels que Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 vendu par la société Union Carbide, de formule :

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from:

1. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes volatils linéaires contenant 2 à 9 atomes de silicium et ayant une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 5×10^-6m²/s à 25 °C. Un exemple est le décaméthyltétrasiloxane vendu notamment sous le nom SH 200 par la société Toray Silicone. Des silicones appartenant à cette catégorie sont également décrites dans l’article publié dans Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers,Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. La viscosité des silicones est mesurée à 25 °C selon la norme ASTM 445 Annexe C.

Also exemplary are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

1. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

• les huiles Silbione^®des gammes 47 et 70 047 ou les huiles Mirasil^®vendues par Rhodia, par exemple l’huile 70 047 V 500 000 ;
• les huiles de la gamme Mirasil^®vendues par la société Rhodia ;
• les huiles de la gamme 200 de la société Dow Corning, comme la DC200 avec une viscosité de 60.000 mm²/s ; et
• les huiles Viscasil^®de General Electric et certaines huiles de la gamme SF (SF 96, SF 18) de General Electric.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite, without limitation, the following commercial products:

• Silbione ^® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil ^® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
• oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by the company Rhodia;
• Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; and
• General Electric ^Viscasil® oils and certain General Electric SF range oils (SF 96, SF 18).

Also exemplified are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

• les huiles Silbione® de la gamme 70 641 de Rhodia ;
• les huiles des gammes Rhodorsil® 70 633 et 763 de Rhodia ;
• l’huile Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid de Dow Corning ;
• les silicones de la gamme PK de Bayer, comme le produit PK20 ;
• certaines huiles de la gamme SF de General Electric, comme SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 et SF 1265.

Examples of products sold under the following names include:

• Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
• oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
• Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
• Bayer's PK range of silicones, such as PK20;
• some General Electric SF range oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

Liquid organomodified silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone from Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

• des alcanes inférieurs en C₆- C₁₆, linéaires ou ramifiés, facultativement cycliques. Les exemples qui peuvent être cités incluent hexane, undécane, dodécane, tridécane et isoparaffines, par exemple isohexadécane, isododécane et isodécane ; et
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que paraffines liquides, gelée de pétrole liquide, polydécènes et polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam® et squalane.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

• lower alkanes C ₆ - C ₁₆ , linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C6 - _C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched _C6 - _C30 alcohols, and more preferably saturated, linear or branched _C12 - _C20 alcohols.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be preferentially used. Any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be preferentially used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be even more preferentially used.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferentially chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and their mixtures.

It is preferable that the (b-1) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and their mixtures, and preferentially from vegetable oils.

The amount of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Fatty acid)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-2) at least one fatty acid. A single type of fatty acid may be used, or two or more different types of fatty acids may be used in combination.

(b-2) fatty acid is different from (b-1) oil or (a-3) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof.

The (b-2) fatty acid can hydrophobize the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer.

The term "fatty acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

The (b-2) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b-2) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the (b-2) fatty acid is selected from a C ₄ -C ₂₆ fatty acid, more preferably a C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acid, and even more preferably a C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acid.

The (b-2) fatty acid may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (b-2) fatty acid may be chosen from C ₄ -C ₂₆ , preferably C ₆ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.

As unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched may be used. As unsaturated fraction of unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.

Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C ₈ ), pelargonic acid (C ₉ ), capric acid (C ₁₀ ), lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C ₁₄ ), pentadecanoic acid (C ₁₅ ), palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ), heptadecanoic acid (C ₁₇ ), stearic acid (C ₁₈ ), isostearic acid (C ₁₈ ) _, nonadecanoic acid (C ₁₉ ), arachidic acid (C ₂₀ ), behenic acid (C ₂₂ ) and lignoceric acid (C ₂₄ ).

Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (C ₁₄ ), palmitoleic acid (C ₁₆ ), oleic acid (C ₁₈ ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linolenic acid (C ₁₈ ), elaidic acid (C ₁₈ ), arachidonic acid (C ₂₀ ) _, eicosenoic acid (C ₂₀ ), erucic acid (C ₂₂ ) and nervonic acid (C ₂₄ ).

It is preferable that the (b-2) fatty acid is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

The (b-2) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or the form of a salt thereof. As the salt of the fatty acid, there may be an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a salt salt, or the like); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the free acid form and one or more fatty acids in the salt form may be used, in which one or more types of salts may also be used.

The amount of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Consequently, the amount of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Optional ingredient)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants/emulsifiers; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than the (a-1) first cationic polymer or the (a-2) second cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as monovalent or divalent alcohol (e.g. ethanol and pentylene glycol); anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (a-1) first cationic polymer or the (a-2) second cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the synthetic surfactant(s)/emulsifier(s) or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any synthetic surfactant/emulsifier or thickener.

The amount of the anionic polymer(s) or the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise an anionic or amphoteric polymer.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. In addition, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

1. mélange

It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention is prepared by a process comprising the following steps:

1. blend

(a-1) of at least one first cationic polymer;

(a-2) of at least one second cationic polymer,

(a-3) of at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and

(a-4) water

1. mélange

to form a first mixture (a);

1. blend

(b-1) of at least one oil, and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

1. mélange

to form a second mixture (b); and

1. blend

of the first mixture (a) and the second mixture (b) to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may further comprise an optional step of mixing at least one surfactant, provided that the amount of the surfactant(s) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Cosmetic application]

The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. The keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, lips, hair or body hair and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for the keratinous substance, particularly the skin.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care composition.

[Shape]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one aqueous phase and (b) at least one fatty phase. The (a) aqueous phase may comprise, at least, (a-4) water. The (b) fatty phase may comprise, at least, (b-1) oil.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) aqueous phase may function as a continuous phase, while the (b) fatty phases may function as discontinuous phases. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W dispersion such as an O/W emulsion. Since the composition according to the present invention may be of the O/W type, it may provide a feeling of freshness due to the aqueous phase including water which forms the external phase thereof.

The (a) aqueous phase may comprise the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer, the (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (a-4) water.

The amount of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can range from 45% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty phases may include (b-1) oil and (b-2) fatty acid.

The amount of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 55% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less and, more preferably, 45% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention can range from 5% to 55% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.

Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally having a thickness of 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising:

the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

drying the composition.

The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be 300 μm or less, preferably 200 μm or less, and more preferably 100 μm or less.

Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require spin coating or spraying, and thus it is possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spin coating machines and spraying machines.

If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In any case, it is preferable that the substrate is soft or elastic.

If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 μm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 μm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 μm.

It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention can be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The release mode is not limited. Accordingly, the film according to the present invention can be peeled from the non-keratinous substrate.

1. Un film, préférentiellement un film cosmétique, facultativement d’une épaisseur préférentiellement supérieure à 0,5 μm, plus préférentiellement de 1,0 μm ou plus, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1,5 μm ou plus, préparé par un processus comprenant :

The present invention may also relate to:

1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally having a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

drying the composition,

1. Un film, préférentiellement un film cosmétique, facultativement d’une épaisseur préférentiellement supérieure à 0,5 μm, plus préférentiellement de 1,0 μm ou plus, encore plus préférentiellement de 1,5 μm ou plus, comprenant :

And

1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally having a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising:

(a-1) at least one first cationic polymer,

(a-2) at least one second cationic polymer,

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof,

(b-1) at least one oil, and

(b-2) at least one fatty acid.

The above explanations regarding the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer, and the (a-3) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as the (b-1) oil and the (b-2) fatty acid, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the film (2) above.

The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and/or biodegradable.

The term “biocompatible” in this specification means that the film does not have excessive interaction between the film and cells of the living body including the skin, and that the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

The term "biodegradable" in this specification means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself, or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. In addition, the biodegradable film can be degraded by hydrolysis.

If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and/or biodegradable, for example, it may be less irritable or non-irritable to the skin and/or it may not contaminate environments.

In fact, the film according to the present invention may include the (a-1) first cationic polymer selected from chitosans, and the (a-2) second cationic polymer selected from polylysines, both of which are biodegradable polymers.

The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, in particular the face. The film according to the present invention can take any form.

If the film according to the present invention includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the film can provide cosmetic effects based on the cosmetic active ingredient(s). Since the cosmetic active ingredient(s) can be maintained in the film according to the present invention, the film can provide sustained release of the cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic active ingredient is an anti-acne agent, the film according to the present invention, including the anti-acne agent, can provide sustained anti-acne effects.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention also relates to:

a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or

a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as the skin.

The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

The present invention also relates to a use of (a-1) at least one first cationic polymer and (a-2) at least one second cationic polymer,

in a composition comprising:

(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-4) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; and

(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,

in order to stabilize the composition and reduce the viscosity of the composition.

The above explanations regarding the (a-1) first cationic polymer, the (a-2) second cationic polymer, the (a-3) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (a-4) water, as well as the (b-1) oil and the (b-2) fatty acid, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above use.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[Preparations]

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” of raw materials.

　 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex.
Comp. 1 Ex.
Comp. 2 Ex.
Comp. 3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (80% by weight aqueous solution) 2 2 2 - 4 Lactic acid 1 1 1 - 2 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyepsilon-Lysine (25% by weight aqueous solution) 2 1 - 1 - Oleic acid 2 2 2 2 2 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil 10 10 10 10 10 Stability Good Good Good Bad Good Viscosity Weak Weak High N / A High

ND: Not available

[Evaluations] (Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature (25 °C) for one day. The stability of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Good: The composition was uniform.

Bad: Phase separation was observed.

The results are shown in Table 1.

The compositions according to Examples 1-2, as well as Comparative Examples 1 and 3, were stable in maintaining a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 2 were not stable as phase separation was observed.

(Viscosity)

The complex viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was measured by a DHR-2 rheometer (TA instrument, frequency 1 Hz, cone type 40 mm φ2, stress sweep 0.01% to 1000%) at room temperature (25 °C).

The measured complex viscosities of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 were similar.

The viscosities of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 were compared with the complex viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1, and the relativity was determined as “low” and “high”.

The measurement of the complex viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 2 was not possible due to the phase separation of the composition.

The viscosities of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 were compared to the complex viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 3, and the relativity was determined to be “low” and “high”.

The results are shown in Table 1.

The compositions according to Examples 1-2 showed lower viscosity, and therefore, they can provide better texture. On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 3 showed higher viscosity, and therefore, they provide worse texture.

Claims (10)

Composition, comprising:
(a-1) at least one first cationic polymer;
(a-2) at least one second cationic polymer;
(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
(a-4) water;
(b-1) at least one oil; and
(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,
in which
the (a-1) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans, and
the (a-2) second cationic polymer is selected from polylysines. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (a-1) first cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the amount of the (a-1) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amount of the (a-2) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (a-3) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the (b-1) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and their mixtures, and preferably from vegetable oils. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the (b-2) fatty acid is chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C ₄ -C ₂₂ , preferably C ₆ -C ₂₀ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ . Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the (a-1) first cationic polymer and the (a-2) second cationic polymer, and the (b-2) fatty acid form at least one complex. Cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:
the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; and
drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Use of (a-1) at least one first cationic polymer and (a-2) at least one second cationic polymer,
in a composition comprising:
(a-3) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
(a-4) water;
(b-1) at least one oil; and
(b-2) of at least one fatty acid,
in order to stabilize the composition and reduce the viscosity of the composition.