FR3146403A1 - Solid cosmetic composition capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application proposes a solid cosmetic composition capable of forming a cream by simple dispersion in hot water, which can provide the same cosmetic benefits as traditional liquid compositions, and which in particular has a pleasant sensory profile. The combination of an easily dispersible solid form and a pleasant sensory profile is possible thanks to the combination of modified starches, in particular a sensory gelling starch and an emulsifying starch, and vegetable or microbial gums. The solid composition can easily be transformed into a cream by simple dispersion in hot water. The cream has a pleasant sensory profile, for example characterized by a cushion effect

Description

Solid cosmetic composition capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion

The subject of this application falls within the field of cosmetic products in solid form dispersible in water before use to constitute an oil-in-water emulsion, in the form of a cream or a milk.

Cosmetic creams generally consist of a fatty phase emulsified in an aqueous phase, said fatty phase representing a minority fraction of the cream, typically of the order of 5 to 25% by weight. The aqueous fraction represents the majority fraction, typically 75 to 95% by weight of the cream. These cosmetic creams are therefore products mainly composed of water, formulated to be ready to use, and in fact are systematically packaged in containers most of the time made of plastic and for single use. The use of these ready-to-use forms, very convenient for the user, therefore involves multiple sources of pollution and carbon dioxide emissions: from the manufacture of plastic containers to their recycling, including their transport first empty, then filled with cosmetic products. In a simplified manner, the transport of a cosmetic product can be seen as the transport of plastic material and water.

To eliminate plastic, a known solution to reduce the pollution caused by the manufacture and transport of cosmetic products packaged in plastic containers is to offer solid forms of said cosmetic products, usable as is, packaged in paper or cardboard packaging. And to eliminate the water to be transported, another known solution is to formulate these solid cosmetic products in such a way as to make them easily dispersible in water by the user at home, for example just before use, so that the user prepares the final cosmetic product himself with the water he has at home.

Technical problem

In addition to the sustainable development and environmental considerations to which consumers are sensitive, consumer interest in cosmetic products in solid form will be all the greater if they are made up of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, and if they give them the same cosmetic benefits as liquid forms, namely the cleansing and/or improvement of the skin and/or appendages, and at the same time, the same pleasant sensations. This is the objective that the solid cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present application seeks to achieve.

Summary

A first subject of the present application is a solid cosmetic composition at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one pasty fatty compound at 25°C, and at least one sensory gelling starch, in which the ratio of the mass of pasty fatty compound at 25°C to the mass of sensory gelling starch is between 0.1 and 20. This solid cosmetic composition has the particularity of being capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion by dispersion in hot water with manual stirring.

A second subject of the present application is a cosmetic product in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion obtained by dispersing the solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the application in water at at least 60°C and by manual stirring.

A third subject matter of the present application is a process for preparing a cosmetic product comprising the following steps:
- provide a solid cosmetic composition according to the subject of this application,
- adding said solid cosmetic composition to drinking or demineralized water preheated to a temperature between 60°C and 100°C, at a content by weight of said solid cosmetic composition ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, and at a water content ranging from 70% to 99% by weight,
- manually shake the previously obtained dispersion to form an emulsion,
- leave to cool to room temperature.

A fourth subject of the present application is a cosmetic care method comprising the following steps:
- prepare a cosmetic product according to the subject of this application,
- apply said cosmetic product to the part of the skin or appendages with a view to improving or modifying its appearance.

Detailed description

Cosmetic composition solid

The cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is solid at 25°C under atmospheric pressure, that is to say at a pressure of 760 mm Hg, and is preferably pasty at 25°C under atmospheric pressure. It comprises:
- at least one pasty fatty compound at 25°C under atmospheric pressure,
- at least one sensory gelling starch, preferably chosen from carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starches, and pregelatinized and alkylated starches, or a mixture thereof.

The mass of pasty fatty compound, i.e. the sum of the masses of pasty fatty compounds if at least two are present, and the mass of sensory gelling starch, i.e. the sum of the masses of sensory gelling starches if at least two are present, are related to each other, and must satisfy selected values. The ratio of the mass of pasty fatty compound to the mass of sensory gelling starch must be between 0.1 and 20, preferably between 5 and 15, preferably between 5.5 and 12, preferably between 6 and 11, preferably between 6.5 and 8, and most preferably between 6.75 and 7.5.

The solid cosmetic composition comprises at least one pasty fatty compound, which can be chosen from solid oils at 25°C, waxes, butters, or a mixture of these.

The solid cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one natural or naturally-derived non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB of between 3 and 14, and at least one starchy or starchy emulsifier. Preferably, the natural or naturally-derived non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier has an HLB of between 3 and 12, and most preferably is chosen from glyceryl or polyglyceryl esters, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the starchy or starchy emulsifier is chosen from amphiphilic modified starches, preferably from alkenylsuccinate starches, and most preferably is chosen from octenylsuccinate starches.

In addition, the mass of starchy or starchy-origin emulsifier, i.e. the sum of the masses of the starchy or starchy-origin emulsifiers if at least two are present, and the mass of natural or naturally-origin non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB of between 3 and 14, i.e. the sum of the masses of natural or naturally-origin non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers with an HLB of between 3 and 14, may be related to each other. Thus, the ratio of the mass of starchy or starchy-origin emulsifier to the mass of natural or naturally-origin non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB of between 3 and 14 may be between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.13 and 1.56, preferably between 0.4 and 1.2.

The solid cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one gum of plant origin or one gum of microbial origin, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the gum of plant origin is chosen from galactomannans, guar gum, carob gum, tara gum, cassia gum, glucomannans, konjac gum, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum arabinogalactan, gum karaya, aglinates, galactans of the carrageenan type, galactans of the agar type, psyllium gum, pectins, mannans, galactoglucomannans, xylans, or glycosaminoglycans. Preferably, the gum of microbial origin is chosen from xanthan, gellan, dextran, scleroglucan, beta-glucan, or arabinogalactan gums.

In addition, the mass of gum of plant or microbial origin, i.e. the sum of the masses of the gums of plant origin and the gums of microbial origin if at least two gums are present, and the mass of pasty fatty compound at 25°C, i.e. the sum of the masses of the pasty fatty compounds at 25°C if at least two are present, may be linked to each other. The ratio of the mass of gum of plant or microbial origin to the mass of pasty fatty compound at 25°C may be between 0.01 and 0.5, preferably between 0.04 and 0.25, preferably between 0.07 and 0.15.

The solid cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer chosen from synthetic polymers or natural or naturally occurring polymers. Preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from native or modified film-forming starches, and most preferably from native or modified starches rich in amylopectin, native or modified starches rich in amylose, and native or modified legume starches.

The solid cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one ionic surfactant with an HLB of between 10 and 20, preferably between 12 and 16. Said ionic surfactant may be chosen from cationic surfactants, and will then be preferentially present at a content of between 0.5 and 5% by weight in the solid cosmetic composition, preferably between 0.75 and 2.5%, very preferably between 0.9 and 1.5%. Said ionic surfactant may be chosen from anionic surfactants, and is then preferentially present at a content of between 1 and 20% by weight in the solid cosmetic composition, preferably between 2.5 and 15%, very preferably between 5 and 12.5%. Said ionic surfactant may finally be chosen from ionic zwitterionic surfactants.

The solid cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one active ingredient, a coloring agent or a fragrance, or a mixture thereof. The active ingredient is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents, anti-aging agents, anti-acne agents, chemical skin peeling agents.

Sensory gelling starch

The sensory gelling starch useful for the subject of the present application is a starch having the capacity to gel an aqueous phase in an oil-in-water emulsion and to give said emulsion a pleasant sensory profile, for example characterized by a significant cushion effect. The sensory gelling starch may be chosen from starches modified by at least one of the following modifications: pregelatinization, alkylation, hydroxyalkylation, carboxyalkylation, crosslinking, or a mixture of at least two of these previous modifications. Preferably, the sensory gelling starch is chosen from carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starches, pregelatinized and alkylated starches, and more preferably is a carboxymethylated and crosslinked starch, or a pregelatinized and acetylated starch, and most preferably is a carboxymethylated and crosslinked starch.

Carboxyalkylated starch

This carboxyalkylated starch fulfills the function of gelling agent of the aqueous phase. It also fulfills the function of sensory agent with cushion effect. It is obtained by carboxyalkylation of a basic starch. The basic starch can be a native starch of corn, potato, wheat, rice, pea, oat, lentil, fava bean, broad bean, bean, chickpea, cassava, or combinations thereof.

By "carboxyalkylated", the applicant means a starch that has been chemically modified by at least one carboxyalkylation. By "carboxyalkylation" is meant in particular, without this list being limiting, any chemical modification capable of replacing all or part of the hydroxyl groups OH of the starch with groups of the type O-(CH2)n-COOH, of the type O-(CH2)n-COOX, of the type O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOH, or of the type O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOX in which:
- n is equal to zero (cyanidation reaction) or greater, preferably between 1 (carboxymethylation reaction) and 4 (carboxybutylation reaction) and most preferably equal to 1 (carboxymethylation) or 2 (carboxyethylation reaction or cyanoethylation reaction)
- m is greater than zero and in particular equal to 1 (carboxyalkylation using chloromalonic acid for example),
- X is a cation, preferably monovalent, chosen in particular from the group comprising sodium, potassium and lithium, in particular sodium and potassium, sodium being generally preferred.

According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is chosen from carboxymethylated, carboxyethylated, carboxypropylated starches, or a mixture thereof. The carboxyalkylated starch may also have been modified by at least two chemical carboalkylation modifications, preferentially chosen from carboxymethylation, carboxyethylation, carboxypropylation.

Particularly advantageously, the carboxyalkylation consists of a carboxymethylation reaction using monochloroacetic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium monochloroacetate.

According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is also a pregelatinized starch. It can then be chosen from carboxymethylated and pregelatinized starches, carboxyethylated and pregelatinized starches, carboxypropylated and pregelatinized starches, or mixtures thereof.

Carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch

According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch useful for the subject of the present application is a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch. The carboxyalkylated starch can be crosslinked by a crosslinking agent chosen from polyfunctional acids, polyacid anhydrides, or polyfunctional basic organic molecules, as well as their metal salts.

The polyfunctional acids having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be polycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, or polyphosphoric acids, such as triphosphoric acid; Anhydrides of polyacids having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be mixed polyacid anhydrides such as mixed adipic-acetic anhydride. The polyfunctional basic organic molecules having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be polyphosphates. Their metal salts can be sodium, manganese, calcium, manganese, iron, copper, zinc salts. A preferred variant of crosslinking agent is sodium salts of polyacids, such as sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate. Other crosslinking agents having crosslinked the carboxyalkylated starch can be polyfunctional aldehydes, such as glyoxal; halogenated epoxides, such as epichlorohydrin; aliphatic or aromatic diisocyanates, the alkyl chain of which has less than 8 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate; oxohalides, such as phosphorus oxychloride.

Examples of carboxymethylated starches useful for the purpose of the present application are Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 marketed by Roquette Frères, which is a carboxymethylated and crosslinked starch, or Vivastar® or Explotab® from JRS Pharma.

Fat compound pasty at 2 5 °C

By "pasty fatty compound" is meant a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the fatty compound measured at 25°C can represent from 0.5 to 99% by weight of said fatty compound, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight. The pasty fatty compound at 25°C useful for the solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application is preferably chosen from solid oils at 25°C, waxes, butters, or their mixtures.

Solid oils at 25°C

The solid oils at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) useful for the purpose of this application are:

- fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, copra, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid, such as SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

- triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES),

- esters of dimer diol, or polyol, and dimer diacid such as for example:

* esters of dimer of dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

* esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company

Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL/ STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).

Waxes

The waxes useful for the purpose of this application are: polar hydrocarbon waxes, including ester waxes, alcohol waxes and silicone waxes; apolar hydrocarbon waxes.

The wax is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly greater than 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C. The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

The measurement protocol is as follows: a solid fat sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a "hermetic aluminum capsule" crucible. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, then left at the isotherm of 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute. The melting temperature value of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

Polar hydrocarbon waxes

The polar hydrocarbon wax is chosen from hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. The term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated. The term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). The additional alcohol wax does not in particular comprise any ester function. The term "silicone wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Ester waxes:

In particular, the following can be used as ester wax:

i) waxes of formula R1-COO-R2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 30°C to 120°C, preferably from 30°C to 100°C. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and alcohols such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MBAL", "Crodamol MS PA" from the company CRODA, "Miraceti" from the company LASERSON. It is also possible to use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.

ii) di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T4S® by the company HETERENE.

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

(iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57".

(v) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

(vi) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or plant origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units may vary from 1 to 20. As examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower wax, and blends thereof (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of the triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.

(viii) and their mixtures.

Alcohol waxes

As alcohol wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25°C and 90°C. As examples of alcohol wax, mention may be made of stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Silicone waxes

As silicone wax, we can cite for example: mixtures comprising a compound of type C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures comprising a compound of type C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (INCI name), such as the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax; mixtures comprising a compound of type C20-24 alkyl methicone, such as SeraSoft SW 73 from KCC Beauty; mixtures comprising a compound of type C26-28 alkyl methicone, such as Belsil® CDM 3526 VP and Belsil® CM 7026 VP from Wacker. We can also cite silicone beeswax.

The solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application may comprise a content of wax(es), preferably polar wax(es), preferably polar hydrocarbon wax(es), of between 0.5 and 20% by weight, or from 0.5 to 17.5% by weight, or from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of said solid cosmetic composition.

Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes

The wax may be chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes. The term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon. As illustrations of the apolar waxes suitable for the subject of the present application, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene.

Butter s

The butters useful for the solid composition which is the subject of the present application are pasty fatty compounds comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, said liquid fraction at 25°C representing between 9 and 97% by weight, preferably between 15 and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight, relative to the weight of the butter. In addition, they have a starting melting temperature of the butter below 25°C.

Preferably, the butter has a melting point below 60°C. Preferably, the butters have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, visible by X-ray observations. The melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a butter can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty fat previously heated to 80 °C and taken under magnetic stirring using a spatula also heated is placed in a hermetic aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

The measurements are carried out on a differential calorimeter. The furnace is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. Cooling is ensured by a heat exchanger or a nitrogen flow at 20°C. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by first being brought to a temperature of 20°C, then subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the butter sample as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

The end-of-melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of butter at 25 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the butter.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. Butter is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in the form of a crystalline solid. Butter is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in the form of a liquid.

The enthalpy of fusion of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the above calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5°C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of butter is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

According to one embodiment, the particular butter(s) are vegetable or of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 06/15/2000, D01: 10.1002/14356007.a10 173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifei indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), butter Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia (Macadamia Ternifolia) butter, Grapeseed (Vitis vinifera) butter, Avocado (Persea gratissima) butter, Olive (Olea europaea) butter, Sweet Almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) butter, Cocoa (Theobroma cacao) butter, Argan butter, Mango butter, Cupuaçu butter, Camellia butter, Marula butter and Sunflower butter.

E oil-in-water emulsifier non-ionic

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier may be chosen from synthetic emulsifiers or natural or naturally derived emulsifiers. The term “of natural origin” refers to any molecule derived from renewable resources, in particular extracted from, or secreted by, plants, microorganisms or algae and capable of allowing, after physical, chemical or enzymatic modification, the obtaining of an oil-in-water (O/W) type emulsion or of promoting its stability.

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin can also be chosen from products that are naturally biodegradable in a hydrated natural environment, in particular with a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic balance (HLB) of between 3 and 14, preferably between 3 and 12.

For example, the non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin may be chosen from the following products, provided that they satisfy the condition on the HLB above: alkyl polyglucosides; mixtures of at least one alkyl polyglucoside and at least one fatty alcohol; non-ethoxylated fatty esters of polyols, and in particular from among the non-ethoxylated fatty esters of glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, anhydrous hexitols such as in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups, dextrins and hydrolyzed starches.

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin is preferably chosen to be naturally biodegradable in a hydrated natural environment. It may in particular be non-ethoxylated fatty esters of polyols obtained from fatty acid or by transesterification from oil or mixtures of oils. The fatty acids used comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. These acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may have one or more lateral hydroxyl functions. The oils may be saturated or unsaturated, from liquid to solid at room temperature, and may optionally have hydroxyl functions, preferably with an iodine number of between 1 and 145, and in particular from 5 to 105.

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin may be chosen in particular from polyglycerol esters, and preferably from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units with at least one partially hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil with an iodine value of between 1 and 15, and in particular from 5 to 10. It may be in particular oleic, stearic, palmitic, lauric, diisostearic and caprylic esters of polyglycerols and in particular the following products: Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate with an HLB of approximately 8 (such as Dermofeel® G 5 DO from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate with an HLB of approximately 9 (such as HYDRIOL® PGC.2 from HYDRIOR), Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate of HLB approx. 9 (as Dermofeel® PS from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate of HLB approx. 9 (as Dermofeel® G2L from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate of HLB approx. 10 (as Dermofeel® PP from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate of HLB approx. 11 (as Dermofeel® G10 DI from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate of HLB approx. 11.5, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate of HLB approx. 13 (as Dermofeel® G5L from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate of HLB approx. 14 (as HYDRIOL® PGC.3 from HYDRIOR), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate of HLB approx. 14 (as MASSOCARE PG4 C from Masso), Polyglyceryl-10 Monolaurate of HLB approx. 14.8, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate of HLB approx. 15 (as Dermofeel® G 6 CY from Dr. Straetmans GmbH / Evonik), Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate of HLB approx. 16 (as Dermofeel® G 10 L from Dr. Straetmans GmbH / Evonik).

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin can be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides, sometimes also called alkyl polyglycosides, and designated by the acronym APG. These emulsifiers are non-ionic surfactants well known in themselves. Patent FR 2 948 285 presents them in terms of structure, and explains how to prepare them. They can be represented by the following general formula (I): R1-O-(R2-O)p-(S)n

In which:
- S represents a reducing saccharide, which may comprise between 5 and 6 carbon atoms,
- R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl group contains approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R2 denotes an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- n denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15,
- p denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10.

By reducing saccharide, we mean in formula (I), the saccharide derivatives which do not have in their structures a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as they are defined in the reference work: "Biochemistry", Daniel Voet/Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990. The oligomeric structure (S)n, can be present in any form of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or positional isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.

According to a particular aspect, in the definition of the compounds of formula (I), S represents a reducing saccharide chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or tallose and more particularly a reducing saccharide chosen from glucose, xylose or arabinose.

A first preferred variant of alkyl polyglucosides useful for the subject of the present application are C12-C20 alkyl glucosides, i.e. compounds of formula (I) in which:
- R1 more particularly denotes a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
- p takes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to zero,
- S denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and more preferably glucose.

A second preferred variant of alkyl polyglucosides useful for the purpose of the present application are the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides of the first preferred variant in which:
- R1 more particularly denotes a linear alkyl radical comprising approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
- p is equal to zero,
- S denotes glucose

Alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I) are notably commercially available under the names: Plantacare® 810 UP (R1 is C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl/capryl glucoside), Plantacare® 818 UP (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: Coco-glucoside), Plantacare® 2000 UP (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside) and Plantacare® 1200 UP (R1 is C12-C16 / INCI: lauryl glucoside) sold by the company BASF; Macanol® 810 (R1 is C8-C10), Macanol® 1200 (R1 is C12-C14), Macanol® 816 (mixture of R1 is C8, C10, C12, C14, C16) sold by FCI Technology; Neocare MF 0718 (R1 is C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl/capryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0012 (R1 is C12-C14 / INCI: lauryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0002 (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside), Neocare MF 818 (R1 is C8-C16 / INCI: coco glucoside) sold by Neochem; Tego Care CG 90 (R1 is C14-C16 / INCI: cetearyl glucoside) sold by the company Evonik Healthcare.

The non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier of natural origin may be a mixture consisting of at least one alkyl polyglucoside and at least one fatty alcohol. In these mixtures, the alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen from all the alkyl polyglucosides useful for the subject of the present application described above. Concerning the fatty alcohols useful for mixing with the alkyl glucosides, linear or branched fatty alcohols having a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 8 to 24 will be found.

Mixtures of alkyl glucosides and fatty alcohols useful for the purpose of the present application and commercially available are those sold by the company SEPPIC: Montanov™ 14 (INCI: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 82 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-Glucoside), Montanov™ S (INCI: Coco-Glucoside & Coconut Alcohol), Montanov™ L (INCI: C14-22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside).

E emulsifier starchy or of starchy origin :

By "starchy emulsifier" is meant a starch having emulsifying properties, in particular having the capacity to emulsify an oil in water. An emulsifier of starchy origin useful for the subject of the present application is thus a starch modified by a hydrophobic functionalization, or an amphiphilic functionalization, or an ionic functionalization, or a combination of these functionalizations. The starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations may be a native starch, a pregelatinized starch, a hydrolyzed starch, a modified starch.

According to one embodiment, the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a native starch. According to another embodiment, the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a pregelatinized starch. According to another embodiment, the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a hydrolyzed starch.

“Emulsifier of starchy origin” means a dextrin, or a hydrolyzed starch, or a maltodextrin, having the capacity to emulsify an oil in water. An emulsifier of starchy origin is a dextrin, or a hydrolyzed starch, or a maltodextrin, having undergone hydrophobic functionalization, or amphiphilic functionalization, or ionic functionalization, or a combination of these functionalizations.

Hydrophobic and/or amphiphilic functionalization

The term "hydrophobic and/or amphiphilic functionalization" refers to a chemical reaction between, on the one hand, a hydrophobic and/or amphiphilic reagent, and on the other hand, some or all of the hydroxyl groups of the starch or the starchy material. This reaction is generally a "substitution" or a "grafting" by creation of covalent bonds of the ester, ether or amide type.

According to a so-called “amphiphilic” embodiment, the starchy emulsifier, or the emulsifier of starchy origin, is obtained by substitution of the hydroxyl groups by reaction with an acid chloride, or with an ester of alcohol and acid anhydride.

The acid chloride may be a chloride of one or more of the following acids, having from 2 to 24 carbons, preferably 4 to 24 carbons, saturated or unsaturated, and more preferably among propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, pelargonic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, the anhydrides of these acids, the mixed anhydrides of these acids, and any mixtures of these products.

The alcohol may be a linear, branched, or cyclic alcohol, consisting of a carbon skeleton containing at least 2 carbon atoms. The alcohol may contain at least one unsaturation, i.e. at least one carbon-carbon double bond. The alcohol may be a linear, branched, or cyclic fatty alcohol, consisting of a carbon skeleton containing from 8 to 36 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol may contain at least one unsaturation. Examples of fatty alcohols without unsaturation are octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tetradecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, docosanol, policosanol.

The acid anhydride may be an anhydride of one of the polycarboxylic acids described below.

The polycarboxylic acid may be a linear, branched, or cyclic polycarboxylic acid, consisting of a carbon skeleton containing at least 2 carbon atoms. The polycarboxylic acid may comprise at least one unsaturation, i.e. at least one carbon-carbon double bond, such as, for example, maleic acid, glutaconic acid, fumaric acid. The polycarboxylic acid may also comprise at least one alcohol group attached to the carbon chain. The polycarboxylic acid may comprise at least two acid groups. According to one embodiment, the polycarboxylic acids are linear dicarboxylic acids carrying the acid groups at the ends of the carbon chain. Examples of linear dicarboxylic acids are ethanedioic acid (or oxalic acid), propanedioic acid, butanedioic acid (or succinic acid), dihydroxybutanedioic acid (or tartaric acid), 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid (or malic acid), pentanedioic acid (or glutaric acid), hexanedioic acid (or adipic acid), tetrahydroxyhexanedioic acid (or saccharic acid), gluconic acid, heptanedioic acid (or pimelic acid), octanedioic acid, nonanedioic acid, decanedioic acid (or sebacic acid).

In one embodiment, the acid anhydride is a linear dicarboxylic acid anhydride. In one embodiment, the acid anhydride is succinic anhydride.

According to one embodiment, the alcohol and acid anhydride ester is a fatty alcohol and succinic acid anhydride ester, such as octenylsuccinic anhydride, or dodecylsuccinic anhydride.

The level of functionalization can result in solubility of the functionalized starch. If the solubility is insufficient, a pregelatinization treatment can be applied to the functionalized starch to make it sufficiently soluble.

According to one embodiment, the emulsifying starch is a waxy starch functionalized by an alkenyl succinate group, in particular octenyl succinate or dodecyl succinate. Examples of starches carrying octenyl succinate functions are Cleargum® CO 01 and CO 03 marketed by Roquette.

According to another embodiment, the emulsifier of starchy origin is a dextrin which has undergone octenyl succinate functionalization, such as for example Cleargum® CO A1 marketed by Roquette.

According to a so-called “hydrophobic” embodiment, the emulsifying starch, or the emulsifier of starchy origin, is obtained by grafting purely hydrophobic groups by radical reaction, for example as set out in the applicant’s application EP3180372.

Gum of microbial origin:

The term "microbial gum" refers to gums derived from bacterial fermentation, such as xanthans, gellans, dextrans and scleroglucans, or from yeast fermentation such as beta-glucans, or from the biological activity of fungi, particularly molds such as 1-3-beta-glucans. Microbial gum may be an endopolysaccharide or exopolysaccharide (EPS), i.e. a polysaccharide present in certain microorganisms at the level of their cell walls and which can be released into a culture medium.

Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan gums typically have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 Da. Possible commercial products include, for example, the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC from the company: Jungbunzlauer International AG, the product Keltrol® CG-T from the company CP Kelco, the product Cosphaderm® X 17 from the company Cosphatec, the product Kahlgum 6673 FEE - Xanthan Gum from the company KahlWax, the products Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® XC from the company Solvay and the product VANZAN® NF-C from the company Vanderbilt Minerals, the product NOVAXAN™ from the company ADM, and the products Kelzan® and Keltrol® from the company CP-Kelco.

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 oses (tetra-oside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in proportions 2:1:1 are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. For example, it is sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA by the company CP KELCO.

Dextran gum is a branched polymer of dextrose (glucose) of very high molecular weight. Dextrans are found in the slimy materials produced by the growth of certain bacteria, such as Leuconostoc mesenteroides , on sucrose media. They consist of D-glucosyl units joined mainly by alpha(1,6) bonds. A range of dextran is for example sold by the company Pharmacosmos.

Scleroglucan gum is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide, consisting of beta-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by beta(1,3) bonds and one out of three of which is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit by a beta(1,6) bond. An example of scleroglucan gum is the product AMIGEL sold by the ALBAN MULLER Company.

Beta-glucan gum is a polysaccharide consisting entirely of D-glucose linked by beta bonds. The bonds can be very diverse and of the beta(1,3), beta(1,4) or beta(1,6) type. As a result, beta-glucans form a diverse group of molecules, present in particular in the cell walls of baker's yeast, and certain fungi and bacteria. For example, the product Beta Glucan AC-25 from Kraeber & Co GmbH is known.

Arabinogalactan gum is a polysaccharide present in varying amounts in many fungi and bacteria.

According to one embodiment, the gum of microbial origin is a xanthan gum or a sceroglucan gum, preferably a xanthan gum.

Vegetable gums:

The term “vegetable gums” refers to gums derived from seeds, tubers or exudates of plants, and gums extracted from algae. This term excludes, in the present application, starches and their derivatives. Among the gums derived from seeds, there are galactomannans, such as guar gum, carob gum, tara gum, cassia gum. Among the gums derived from tubers, there are glucomannans such as konjac gum. Among the gums derived from plant exudates, there are gum arabic, gum tragacanth, karaya gum. Among the gums extracted from algae, there are alginates, galactans such as agar and carrageenans.

The gums useful for the purpose of this application are gelling gums alone or in combination with each other.

Gums from seeds

Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of legume seeds, of which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate. Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of D-mannopyranose units linked in beta(1,4), carrying lateral branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit linked in alpha(1,6) to the main chain. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of alpha-D galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of the galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum, 4 for locust bean gum, and 5 for cassia gum.

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of the order of 2:1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain. Examples of unmodified nonionic guar gums are the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by Danisco, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by Aqualon.

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree, Ceratonia siliqua. It is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of around 4:1. Usable unmodified locust bean gum is sold for example under the name "Vidogum L" by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.

Tara gum is derived from the albumen of the seeds of a South American tree, Caesalpinia spinosa. It is also called Peruvian locust bean gum. It is composed of a chain of mannose monomers ((1,4)beta-D-mannopyranose) branched from the galactose bridges 1-6. It is more branched than locust bean gum and less than guar gum because the ratio between mannose and galactose is 3 to 1, instead of 4 to 1 for locust bean gum and 2 to 1 for guar gum. An example of tara gum is that sold for example under the name "Vidogum SP" by the company Unipektin.

Cassia gum is a galactomannan-type polysaccharide like guar gum and tara gum but obtained from the seeds of plants of the genus Cassia and Senna. It consists of a linear chain of mannose monomers linked together by a beta(1,4) type osidic bond to which are attached approximately every five mannose units, by an alpha(1,6) type osidic bond, a galactose unit which gives a ratio between mannose and galactose of 5 to 1. Cosmetic grades are for example available from the company Altrafine Gums under the name Semi-refined Cassia Gum.

Gums from tubers

Glucomannans are high molecular weight polysaccharides (between 500,000 and 2,000,000 Da), composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with a branching every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood but is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family. Usable products are for example sold under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the Shimizu company.

Gum from plant exudates

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that occurs as mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric components of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Gum tragacanth, also called tragacanth or dragon's gum, is an exudate obtained from the dried mucilaginous sap of about twenty species of plants of the genus Astragalus. This gum is a complex mixture of several polysaccharides. The two main fractions are tragacanthin (which is a neutral arabinogalactan) representing 60% to 70% by weight, and bassorin, also called "tragacanthic acid" (which is an acid glycanogalacturonan) representing 30% to 40% by weight.

Gum arabinogalactan most commonly comes from the American larch (Larix occidentalis).

Karaya gum (or Sterculia gum) is a vegetable gum obtained from the exudate of the branches of Sterculia. Karaya gum is a polysaccharide composed mainly of galactose, rhamnose and galacturonic acid and a small amount of glucuronic acid.

Gums extracted from algae

"Alginates" means alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or said derivatives. Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by (1,4)glycosidic bonds: Beta-D-manuronic acid and Alpha-L-glucuronic acid. Preferably, alginate-based compounds having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 20,000 to 250,000 are used.

The alginate-based compounds suitable for the subject matter of the present application may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name GRINDSTED ® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name KEVIICA ALGIN by the company KEVIICA, and under the names Manucol ® and Manugel ® by the company ISP.

Carrageenan-type galactans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by alpha-(1,3) and beta-(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the alpha-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans which have one ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester-sulfate groups and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups. Carrageenans are mainly composed of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.

Carrageenans are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, and by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO.

Agar-type galactans are polysaccharides of galactose contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (Rhodophyceae). They are formed of a group of polymers whose basic skeleton is a beta(1,3) D-galactopyranose and alpha(1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methylated or carboxyethylated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentages, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season. Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 Da. It is obtained by making seaweed extraction juices, usually by autoclaving, and processing these juices which include about 2% agar-agar, in order to extract the latter.

Agar is produced, for example, by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the Hispanagar company, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the Setexam company.

Other vegetable gums:

In addition to the vegetable gums presented above, other vegetable gums can be used: psyllium gum, pectin, mannans, galactoglucomannans, xylans, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid.

Pectins are substances present in large quantities in the primary walls of dicotyledons, and in particular in the plant walls of many fruits and vegetables, mainly citrus fruits and apples. They are rhamnogalacturonic polysaccharides characterized by a skeleton of alpha-D-galacturonic acid and small amounts of alpha-L-rhamnose more or less branched by essentially galactose and arabinose. They can be pectic acids with a degree of methylation of less than 5% (DM<5), weakly methylated pectins with a degree of methylation of less than 50% (DM<50) or highly methylated pectins with a degree of methylation of greater than 50% (DM>50). As an example, we can cite the product sold under the brand name GENU pHresh™ DF Pectin by the company CP Kelco.

Xyloglucan is a hemicellulose compound that has a backbone of glucose (Glc) residues to which xylose (Xyl), galactose (Gal) and fucose (Fuc) residues are grafted; they are found in many primary plant cell walls.

Xylan is a major component of hemicelluloses, and the second most abundant natural polysaccharide after xyloglucan. Xylans are polymers of xyloses that include glucuronoxylans (GX) that have a backbone of xylose residues to which glucuronic acid (GlcA) or its O-methylated derivative are grafted, arabinoxylans (AX) that have a backbone of xylose residues to which arabinose residues are grafted, glucuronoarabinoxylans (GAX) that have a backbone of xylose residues to which arabinose and glucuronic acid residues are grafted; arabinoxylans and glucuronoarabinoxylans are found in the primary cell walls of monocots, and unsubstituted homoxylans.

Mannan is a polysaccharide composed mainly of mannose monomers and refers to a group of polysaccharides belonging to the hemicellulose family that make up the wall of plant cells. These are monosaccharides linked by beta-1,4 bonds. They can be linear or branched, forming chains with a length (or degree of polymerization) of between 100 and 3000 units.

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs or glycoaminoglycans) are carbohydrate macromolecules that form important components of the extracellular matrices of connective tissues of plant or marine origin. They are long linear chains (unbranched polymers) sulfated (except hyaluronic acid), composed of repeating disaccharides: a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine (GlcN) or galactosamine (GalN)) and another ose (glucuronic acid (GlcA), iduronic acid (IdoA), galactose (Gal)). Glucosamine is either N-sulfated (GlcNS) or N-acetylated (GlcNac). Galactosamine is always N-acetylated (GalNac). Among the GAGs, hyaluronic acid, its derivatives and its salts can be mentioned. These types of macromolecules are for example sold under the names MDI Complex® by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, D-Factor by the company Res Pharma Industriale, Hydrocan by the company Tri-K Industries, Inc, Hyaluronic acid-BT by the company DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.

Film-forming starch native or modified

“Native starch” means a starch consisting of granules that have not been physically, chemically or thermally modified. “Modified starch” means a starch that has undergone one or more physical, chemical and/or thermal treatments, using any technique known in the art, that have modified its physical and/or chemical state. “Film-forming” means the ability of starch to form, after drying, a film on the surface of the skin or appendages, when applied to the latter in the form of a suspension, gel or solution.

According to one embodiment, the film-forming starch is a native starch selected from amylopectin-rich corn or potato starches, and legume starches. According to another embodiment, the film-forming starch is a mixture of at least two film-forming native starches of different botanical origins, selected from amylopectin-rich corn starches, amylopectin-rich potato starches, and legume starches.

By “amylopectin-rich starch” is meant a starch comprising at least 75% by weight of amylopectin, preferably at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight, and most preferably at least 99% by weight, relative to the weight of starch.

By “legume starch” is meant any composition extracted, in any manner whatsoever, from a legume and in particular from a papilionaceae, and whose starch content is greater than 40%, preferably greater than 50% and even more preferably greater than 75%, these percentages being expressed in dry weight relative to the dry weight of said composition. Advantageously, this starch content is greater than 90% (dry/dry). It may in particular be greater than 95%, including greater than 98%.

For the purposes of this application, the term “legume” means any plant belonging to the families Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae and in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family such as, for example, peas, beans, broad beans, field beans, lentils, alfalfa, clover, lupin or soybeans. This definition includes in particular all plants described in any of the tables contained in the article by R. HOOVER et al. entitled “Composition, structure, functionality and chemical modification of legume starches: a review” (Can. J. Physiol. Pharmacol. 1991, 69 pp. 79-92).

Preferably, the legume is selected from the group comprising peas, beans, broad beans and field beans. Advantageously, these are peas, the term “pea” being considered here in its broadest sense and including in particular:
- all wild varieties of “smooth pea”, and
- all mutant varieties of “smooth pea” and “wrinkled pea”, regardless of the uses for which said varieties are generally intended (human food, animal nutrition and/or other uses).

Said mutant varieties are in particular those called “r mutants”, “rb mutants”, “rug 3 mutants”, “rug 4 mutants”, “rug 5 mutants” and “lam mutants” as described in the article by C-L HEYDLEY et al. entitled “Developing novel pea starches” Proceedings of the Symposium of the Industrial Biochemistry and Biotechnology Group of the Biochemical Society, 1996, pp. 77-87.

The legume starch useful for the subject of the present application is obtained from a starch having an amylose content of from 25% to 45%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 40%, the percentages being expressed in dry weight relative to the dry weight of legume starch, and determined before any subsequent treatment such as hydrolysis and/or alkylation of said starch.

According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming starch is a modified legume starch, preferably a modified pea starch. According to one embodiment, the film-forming starch is chosen from acetylated or hydroxyalkylated legume starches. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming starch is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starch, preferably hydroxypropylated.

The term "hydroxypropyl starch" means a starch substituted by hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide, having in particular a content of hydroxypropyl groups of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxypropyl starch, preferably between 1 and 10%, more preferably between 5 and 9%, and in particular close to 7%. This content is in particular determined by proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry, in particular according to standard EN ISO 11543:2002 F.

The term "hydrolyzed starch" means a starch that has undergone a hydrolysis operation, i.e. an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular mass. The person skilled in the art knows how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or by enzymatic treatments. The person skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of fluidification of the starch, depending on the desired viscosity.

The hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch useful for the subject matter of the present application may also comprise one or more other physical and/or chemical modifications, provided that said modifications do not interfere with the desired properties of said starch. An example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch may also have other modifications, and may for example have undergone physical treatments, notably chosen from the known operations of gelatinization, pre-gelatinization, extrusion, atomization or drying, microwave or ultrasound treatment operations, plasticization or granulation.

In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.

According to one embodiment, the film-forming starch is characterized in that it is made soluble. It can be made soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by heat and/or mechanical treatment, for example by a cooking operation in an aqueous medium, optionally followed by a drying step when obtaining a powdery product is desired. The operation aimed at making the film-forming starch soluble can quite easily take place before the introduction of said starch into the cosmetic composition, indifferently before or after the alkylation and/or hydrolysis of the starch, or even after its introduction into the cosmetic composition, for example by cooking the cosmetic composition at the time of its implementation.

The modified legume starch, preferably hydrolyzed and alkylated, as a film-forming starch useful for the subject of the present application, preferably has a weight average molecular weight of from 1 to 5,000 kDa, preferably from 10 to 3,000 kDa, most preferably from 20 to 2,000 kDa, and even more preferably from 100 to 1,800 kDa. For example, the molecular weight may be about 1,500 kDa. The weight average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high performance size exclusion chromatography coupled in-line with multi-angle laser light scattering detection).

Hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starches are commercially available and are offered by the Applicant under the brand name Beauté by Roquette® ST 720.

Coloring agent

The solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application may also comprise a coloring agent chosen from pigments, mother-of-pearls, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water.

According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring agent is chosen from pigments and/or mother-of-pearl.

“Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting film. Pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the pigments oranges codified in the Color Index under the references Cl11725, 15510,45370, 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771 .

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

The pigment may also be a lake. Lake means insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. Examples of lakes include the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment may be a mineral pigment. A mineral pigment is any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful for the subject of the present application, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO, ZrO ₂ in mixture with TiCO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful for the subject of the present application is generally between 10 nm and 10 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 µm.

The coloring agent may also be a soluble dye, preferably water soluble.

Water-soluble colorants include cochineal carmine or products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985). D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

The nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in makeup products, such as mica/titanium dioxide. Alternatively, they can be nacres based on mica/silica/titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite/titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS® from ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR® from MERCK).

The solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application may comprise from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of coloring agent, preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The solid cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present application may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient, for example chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents, anti-aging agents, anti-acne agents, chemical skin peeling agents.

Examples of moisturizing agents include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, isosorbide, as sold under the reference Beauté by Roquette® PO 500 by the applicant, mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfuric acid, high or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or hyaluronic acid potentiated by a silanol derivative such as the active ingredient Epidermosil® marketed by the company Exymol, and mucoitinsulfuric acid; caronic acid; atelo collagen; chlorosteryl-12-hydroxystearate; Bile salts, a major component of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) such as a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a salt of lactic acid, an amino acid analogue such as urea, cysteine and serine; a short-chain soluble collagen, PPG diglycerin, homo- and copolymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure PBM from NOF; Allantoin; Glycerin derivatives such as PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin from NOF sold under the trade name Wilbride®S753 or Glyceryl-polymethacrylate from Sederma sold under the trade name Lubragel®MS; trimethylglycine sold under the trade name Aminocoat® by the company Ashahi Kasei Chemicals and various plant extracts such as Castanea sativa extracts, hydrolyzed hazelnut proteins, Tuberosa Polyanthes polysaccharides, Argania spinosa kernel oil and mother-of-pearl extracts containing conchiolin which are sold in particular by the company Maruzen (Japan) under the trade name Pearl Extract®.

Other examples of moisturizing agents include compounds that stimulate the expression of matriptase MT/SP1, such as a carob pulp extract, as well as agents that stimulate the expression of CERT, ARNT2 or FN3K or FN3K RP; agents that increase the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly or indirectly by stimulating, for example, the production of β-endorphins, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or Theobroma cacao bean shells, water-soluble corn extracts, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranea and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents increasing epidermal lipid synthesis, either directly or by stimulating certain β-glucosidases which modulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as glucosylceramide to ceramides, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupin protein hydrolysates and dihydrojasmonic acid derivatives.

An example of an anti-acne agent is succinic acid, as sold under the reference Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 by the applicant. An example of a chemical skin peeling agent is gluconic acid, as sold under the reference Beauté by Roquette® GA 280 by the applicant.

Process for preparing a cosmetic product from a solid cosmetic composition

One of the subjects of the present application is a process for preparing a cosmetic product comprising the following steps:

- provide a solid cosmetic composition according to the subject of this application,

- add said solid cosmetic composition:
a. in drinking water or demineralized water, preheated to a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably to a temperature between 60 and 100°C, preferably between 70°C and 90°C, and most preferably between 75 and 85°C,
b. at a content by weight of said solid cosmetic composition ranging from 1 to 30% by weight of the mixture of water and said solid cosmetic composition, preferably from 5 to 25%, and most preferably from 10 to 20%,
c. and at a water content ranging from 70% to 99% by weight of the mixture of water and said solid cosmetic composition, preferably from 75 to 95%, from 80 to 90%,

- stir manually or mechanically, preferably manually, the mixture previously obtained to form an oil-in-water emulsion,

- let cool to room temperature.

According to one embodiment, the mass of water in which the solid cosmetic composition is dispersed is calculated from the mass of said solid cosmetic composition according to the formula:

Mass of water = (mass of solid cosmetic composition) * (85.13/14.87)

Mass of water = 5.7 * mass of solid cosmetic composition

The oil-in-water emulsion obtained can be used immediately after its preparation, and can be packaged in a suitable bottle or jar, in order to preserve it for subsequent regular use over several days, weeks or months.

The solid cosmetic composition according to the subject of the present application can be used to prepare a cosmetic product for skin care, hair care, mouth care, makeup or hygiene.

Cosmetic product obtained from the solid cosmetic composition

One of the subjects of the present application is a cosmetic product obtained from the solid cosmetic composition according to the present application. This cosmetic product may consist of an oil-in-water emulsion obtained by dispersing said cosmetic composition in water at at least 60°C and by manual stirring. The water may be drinking water or demineralized water. The manual stirring may consist of stirring a closed container containing the water and the solid cosmetic composition, or stirring in an open container, for example a beaker or a salad bowl, using a flat object, for example a spatula or the handle of a spoon or a knife.

The cosmetic product thus obtained can be a more or less thick cream, or a more or less fluid milk. It can be used for skin care, hair care, mouth care, makeup or hygiene.

Cosmetic care method

An object of the present application may thus also be a cosmetic care process comprising the following steps:
- prepare, preferably extemporaneously, a cosmetic product according to the subject of this application by following the preparation process also the subject of this application,
- apply said cosmetic product to the part of the skin or appendages with a view to improving or modifying its appearance.

Examples

Example 1 : solid cosmetic composition transforming into cream by dispersion in hot water

In this example, a solid cosmetic composition was prepared, shaped into a cube by an appropriate mold, according to the composition in Table 1, following the protocol below:
- heat phase A to 80°C while stirring with a spatula,
- leave to cool to 70°C while stirring with a spatula,
- separately, add the Beauté by Roquette ingredients ST 118, ST 005 and DS 421 in phase B,
- add phase B to phase A with high stirring, approximately 1000 rpm with the deflocculating blade,
- maintain at 65-70°C and quickly place in the molds,
- let cool to room temperature. Phase Trade name / Supplier INCI name % by weight HAS Imwitor® 900 K / IOI Oleochemical Glyceryl Stearate 6.72 Beeswax white / Koster Keunen Holland BV Beeswax 10.09 Cetiol® SB 45 / BASF Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 22.86 Refined Coconut oil / Cooper Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 13.45 B Beauty by Roquette® ST 118 / Roquette Carboxymethyl starch 6.72 Beauty by Roquette® ST 005 / Roquette Corn (may) starch 4.71 Beauty by Roquette® DS 421 / Roquette Sodium starch octenylsuccinate, Starch acetate, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, Xanthan gum 20.17 Dermosoft® GMCY MB / Evonik Glyceryl Caprylate 0.94 Microcare® CLG / Thor Caprylyl glycol 6.72 Sodium benzoate/Cooper Sodium Benzoate 0.47 Potassium sorbate / Cooper Potassium Sorbate 0.54 Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS / Cosphatec Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 5.38 Vanilla Sky / L&R fragrances Fragrance 0.34 Citric acid / Cooper Citric Acid 0.87 Total : 100%

This resulted in solid cubes. To prepare a dose of cream from a previously prepared cube, we then proceeded as follows:
- we weighed a cube,
- the amount of water required to prepare a dose of cream was calculated using the formula: mass of water = (mass of a cube x 85.13)/14.87 = 5.7 x mass of a cube,
- the mass of water required for a cube was prepared in a beaker, at a temperature of 85°C,
- we then added the entire cube to the water, then stirred manually using a spatula until the cube was completely dispersed: we then obtained a cream.

The cream obtained is smooth and soft, thus developing a cushion effect, and is also rich and nourishing. It is a cream that has a sensory profile and a skin hydration efficiency entirely equivalent to a cream that would have been prepared by industrial emulsification, that is to say with an emulsifying stirring mobile such as a high-speed deflocculating blade, 1500 rpm for example.

Claims (15)

Solid cosmetic composition at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, comprising:
- at least one pasty fatty compound at 25°C,
- at least one sensory gelling starch,
in which the ratio of the mass of pasty fatty compound at 25°C to the mass of sensory gelling starch is between 0.1 and 20. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the pasty fatty compound at 25°C is chosen from solid oils at 25°C, waxes, butters, or a mixture of these. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the ratio of the mass of pasty fatty compound to the mass of sensory gelling starch is between 5 and 15, preferably between 5.5 and 12, preferably between 6 and 11, preferably between 6.5 and 8, and most preferably between 6.75 and 7.5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one natural or naturally-derived non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB of between 3 and 14, and at least one starchy or starchy-derived emulsifier. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the ratio of the mass of emulsifying starch to the mass of natural or naturally-derived non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB of between 3 and 13 is between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.13 and 1.56, preferably between 0.4 and 1.2. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one gum of plant origin or one gum of microbial origin, or a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the ratio of the mass of gum of plant origin or of microbial origin to the mass of pasty fatty compound at 25°C is between 0.01 and 0.5, preferably between 0.04 and 0.25, preferably between 0.07 and 0.15. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from synthetic polymers or natural polymers or polymers of natural origin. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one ionic surfactant with an HLB of between 10 and 20. Cosmetic product in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion obtained by dispersing the solid cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, in water at at least 60°C and by manual stirring. Cosmetic product according to the preceding claim, said cosmetic product being a milk or a cream. Process for preparing a cosmetic product comprising the following steps:
- providing a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9,
- adding said cosmetic composition to drinking or demineralized water, preheated to a temperature between 60 and 100°C, at a weight content of said solid cosmetic composition ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, and at a water content ranging from 70% to 99% by weight,
- manually or mechanically stir the previously obtained dispersion to form an emulsion,
- leave to cool to room temperature. Cosmetic care process comprising the following steps:
- preparing a cosmetic product according to one of claims 10 or 11 by following the method according to claim 12,
- apply said cosmetic product to the part of the skin or appendages with a view to improving or modifying its appearance. Use of a solid cosmetic composition as described in claims 1 to 9 for the preparation of a cosmetic product for skin care, hair care, mouth care, makeup or hygiene. Use of a cosmetic product as described in claims 10 or 11 for skin care, hair care, mouth care, makeup or hygiene.