FR3146069A1 - MAKEUP COMPOSITION FOR EYELASHES - Google Patents

Abstract

MAKEUP COMPOSITION FOR EYELASHES The present invention relates to a composition comprising for keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising: at least one acrylic polymer having at least one C8-C30 alkyl side chain; at least one strength-imparting agent selected from (b-1) fillers, (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oils and (b-3) phenyl silicone oils; and at least one hydrocarbon oil. The composition according to the present invention can provide the keratinous fiber with improved long-term strength and curl-holding effect. Figure for abstract: none

Description

MAKEUP COMPOSITION FOR EYELASHES

The present invention relates to a composition for making up keratinous fibres, preferably eyelashes, such as a mascara, as well as a process and a use relating to the composition.

CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

A more pronounced curling effect with long-lasting properties is one of the key features of makeup of keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, such as mascara products. For example, FR3111556A1 and FR3088201A1 disclose technical issues relating to makeup and/or care compositions for keratinous materials such as eyelashes and eyebrows and their contours, having a semi-permanent makeup and/or care effect.

However, there remains a need for a composition for keratinous fibers, particularly eyelashes, which can provide the keratinous fibers with a curl-holding effect with long-lasting properties.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, particularly a mascara, which can provide the keratinous fiber with improved long-term strength and curl-holding effect.

1. au moins un polymère acrylique ayant au moins une chaîne latérale alkyle en C₈-C₃₀;
2. au moins un agent conférant de la résistance choisi parmi (b-1) les charges, (b-2) les huiles de non-phényl silicone et (b-3) les huiles de phényl silicone ; et
3. au moins une huile hydrocarbonée.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

1. at least one acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain;
2. at least one strength-imparting agent selected from (b-1) fillers, (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oils and (b-3) phenyl silicone oils; and
3. at least one hydrocarbon oil.

The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain of (a) acrylic polymer may be linear and saturated.

The (a) acrylic polymer may comprise at least one unit derived from at least one alkyl (meth)acrylate (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ).

The ( _C8 - _C30 ) alkyl (meth)acrylate may be chosen from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate.

The (a) acrylic polymer is not crosslinked.

The (b) strength-imparting agent may comprise (b-1) fillers selected from lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose and mixtures thereof.

The (b) resistance-imparting agent may comprise (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oils selected from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils.

The (b) resistance-conferring agent may comprise (b-2) at least one non-phenyl silicone oil selected from linear non-phenyl silicone oils.

(c) The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

(c) Hydrocarbon oil may include at least two types of hydrocarbon oils.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain may be present in an amount of 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) resistance-conferring agent(s) may be present in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 10% by weight in total, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrocarbon oil(s) may be present in an amount of 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, or may be anhydrous.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, comprising the step:

application of the composition according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

After careful research, the inventors found that a combination of ingredients (a) to (c) is capable of providing a composition for keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, particularly a mascara composition, which can provide the keratinous fiber with improved long-term strength and curling holding effect.

1. au moins un polymère acrylique ayant au moins une chaîne latérale alkyle en C₈-C₃₀;
2. au moins un agent conférant de la résistance choisi parmi (b-1) les charges, (b-2) les huiles de non-phényl silicone et (b-3) les huiles de phényl silicone ; et
3. au moins une huile hydrocarbonée.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising:

1. at least one acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain;
2. at least one strength-imparting agent selected from (b-1) fillers, (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oils and (b-3) phenyl silicone oils; and
3. at least one hydrocarbon oil.

The composition according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, with improved long-term strength and curling maintenance effect. Namely, the composition according to the present invention can provide highly tenacious deposition on keratinous fibers so as to maintain curling for a long time.

The composition according to the present invention is preferable for eyelashes. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful as mascara.

Hereinafter, the composition, process and use according to the present invention will be described in more detail.

[Composition]

(Acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _{C30 alkyl chain)}

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain. Two or more (a) acrylic polymers having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the acrylic polymer or a combination of different types of the acrylic polymer may be used.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain may be hydrophobic due to the C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain(s). Therefore, the use of the (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain may improve or enhance the durability of the composition according to the present invention with respect to water and sebum.

The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain herein refers to a side chain, or pendant group, comprising at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl moiety. Thus, the (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain has a polymer backbone or main chain, which is derived from acrylic or acrylate monomers, and at least one side chain which comprises at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl moiety.

The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain may preferably be a _C9 - _C28 alkyl side chain, more preferably a _C10 - _C26 alkyl side chain, even more preferably a _C12 - _{C24 alkyl} side chain, and preferably a _C14 - _{C22 alkyl} side chain, and in particular a _C16 - _{C20 alkyl} side chain.

The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain may be linear or branched, preferably linear. The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.

The _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain may be a linear, saturated _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one taurate side chain may have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mol.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain can be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl moiety. This means that the (a) acrylic polymer can comprise at least one unit derived from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl moiety.

The monomers bearing at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl moiety may be chosen from (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acids, i.e. (C 8 -C ₃₀ ) alkyl meth)acrylates. This means that the (a) acrylic polymer may comprise at least one unit derived from at least one (C _{8 -C 30} ) alkyl (meth)acrylate.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl (meth)acrylates may be chosen from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain may be a copolymer. In this case, in addition to at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer carrying at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side moiety at least one additional comonomer may also be used. The additional comonomer may be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

The (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain may be crosslinked or not crosslinked. Preferably, the (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain is not crosslinked.

As a commercially available product of (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain, acrylates/stearyl methacrylate copolymer may be mentioned.

The amount of (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a) acrylic polymer having at least one _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(resistance-conferring agent)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one resistance-conferring agent. Two (b) or more resistance-conferring agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of resistance-conferring agent or a combination of different types of resistance-conferring agents may be used.

The strength-imparting agent of the present invention is selected from (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil and (b-3) phenyl silicone oils. The (b) strength-imparting agent may comprise any of (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil and (b-3) phenyl silicone oil, or the (b) strength-imparting agent may comprise (b-1) a filler, (b-2) a non-phenyl silicone oil and/or (b-3) phenyl silicone oil in any combination.

- Charge

The (b-1) charge may include a single type of charge or two or more types of charges in combination.

The term “filler” shall be understood to mean mineral or natural particles of any form, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The (b-1) filler(s) of the present invention may impart mechanical toughness to the composition, to lead to more pronounced deposition of the composition, in particular, resistance to higher temperature. Thus, the (b-1) filler may impart such strength to the composition.

The charge(s) may be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

The filler may be an inorganic or organic powder, which may or may not be surface coated.

The average particle size of the filler is not limited, but generally is 100 μm or less, preferably 50 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of the filler is 0.01 μm or more, preferably 0.05 μm or more, and more preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term "average particle size" used herein represents a number-average size average diameter that is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, denoted by D50. For example, the number-average size average diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

It should be noted that the (b-1) filler of the present invention is different from a “pigment”. Pigments are generally characterized by their average particle size of 200 μm or more.

As inorganic filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, magnesium-aluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate or silica silylate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulphate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof, optionally subjected to a hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment. The metallic soap may be a metallic soap derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

As the organic filler, mention may be made of acrylic polymer powders, silicone powders, wax powders, polyamide powders, urethane polymer powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polyacrylonitrile powders, poly-β-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders and mixtures thereof.

As acrylic polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, lauryl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders, acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate powders, and expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile (co-)polymer, such as acrylonitrile/methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer.

• poudre de polyméthacrylate de méthyle réticulé, par exemple « Covabead LH85 » vendue par la société LC Wackherr, ou de polyméthacrylate de méthyle non réticulé, telle que SJ Touch 1 vendue par la société Nihon Junyaku ;
• poudre de copolymère méthacrylate de méthyle/acrylate de butyle vendue sous le nom Sepipress M par la société Seppic ;
• poudre de copolymère acrylate de méthyle/éthylène vendue sous le nom EMAA par la société Kobo Products Inc. ;
• poudre de copolymère réticulé méthacrylate de méthyle/diméthacrylate d’éthylène glycol vendue sous le nom Ganzpearl GMP 0820 par la société Ganz Chemical, sous le nom Techpolymer MBP-8 par la société Sekisui Plastics, ou encore sous le nom SUNPMMA-S par la société Sunjin Chemical ;
• poudre de polyméthacrylate de méthyle/diméthacrylate d’éthylène glycol, par exemple "Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber" vendue par la société Dow Corning ;
• poudre de copolymère réticulé méthacrylate de méthyle/diméthacrylate d’éthylène glycol vendue sous le nom Ganzpearl PM 030 par la société Ganz Chemical ;
• poudre de polyméthacrylate d'allyle/diméthacrylate d’éthylène glycol, par exemple « Poly-Pore L200 » ou « Poly-Pore E200 » vendue par la société Amcol,
• poudre de copolymère méthacrylate de lauryle/diméthacrylate d’éthylène glycol, par exemple « Polytrap 6603 » vendue par la société Dow Corning ;
• poudre de copolymère d’acrylate/acrylate d’éthylhexyle, par exemple « Techpolymer ACP-8C » vendue par la société Sekisui Plastics ;
• poudre de copolymère acrylonitrile/méthacrylate/chlorure de vinylidène vendue sous lenom Expancel par la société Expancel sous les références 551 DE 50, 551 DE 20, 551 DE 12, 551 DE 80 et 461 DE 50.

Examples of acrylic polymer powder include:

• cross-linked polymethyl methacrylate powder, for example “Covabead LH85” sold by LC Wackherr, or non-cross-linked polymethyl methacrylate, such as SJ Touch 1 sold by Nihon Junyaku;
• methyl methacrylate/butyl acrylate copolymer powder sold under the name Sepipress M by the company Seppic;
• methyl acrylate/ethylene copolymer powder sold under the name EMAA by Kobo Products Inc.;
• methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate cross-linked copolymer powder sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical, under the name Techpolymer MBP-8 by Sekisui Plastics, or under the name SUNPMMA-S by Sunjin Chemical;
• polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, for example "Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber" sold by Dow Corning Company;
• methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate cross-linked copolymer powder sold under the name Ganzpearl PM 030 by Ganz Chemical Company;
• polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, for example “Poly-Pore L200” or “Poly-Pore E200” sold by Amcol,
• lauryl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer powder, for example “Polytrap 6603” sold by Dow Corning;
• acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer powder, for example “Techpolymer ACP-8C” sold by Sekisui Plastics Company;
• acrylonitrile/methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer powder sold under the name Expancel by the company Expancel under the references 551 DE 50, 551 DE 20, 551 DE 12, 551 DE 80 and 461 DE 50.

As polyurethane powders, mention may be made of crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone, for example the hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki.

As silicone powders, organopolysilsesquioxane powders, organopolysiloxane powders and silicone resin powders can be mentioned.

Organopolysilsesquioxane powders are preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane powders. Examples of such polymethylsilsesquioxane powders are materials sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the trade name “TOSPEARL” and materials sold by NIKKO RICA under the names MSP-N050 and MSP-N080.

Organopolysiloxane powders can be elastomeric or non-elastomeric. It is preferable to use elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder or organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxane can, for example, be crosslinked and can be obtained

via an addition reaction by crosslinking of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon, preferably in the presence, for example, of a platinum catalyst; or

via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydroxyl terminal group and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, preferably in the presence, for example, of an organotin compound; or

via a condensation reaction by crosslinking a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydroxyl terminal group and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or

via thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, preferably in the presence, for example, of an organoperoxide catalyst; or

via crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Elastomer organopolysiloxane powders that may be used include those sold under the names “Dow Corning 9505 Powder” and “Dow Corning 9506 Powder” by the Dow Corning Company. These powders have the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may, for example, be selected from elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, for example, silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793. These elastomeric powders are sold under the names “KSP-100”, “KSP-101”, “KSP-102”, “KSP-103”, “KSP-104” and “KSP-105” by Shin-Etsu and bearing the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

Other elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-200" by Shin-Etsu and hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-300" by Shin-Etsu.

As wax powders, mention may also be made of carnauba micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic micro-waxes, for example paraffin wax powders, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, and polyethylene micro-waxes, such as those sold under the names Micro 200®, 220L®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

As polyamide powders, mention may be made of those sold under the name “Orgasol” by the company Atochem. These polyamide powder particles are also known according to their various physicochemical properties under the name “Nylon 12” or “Nylon 6”. The polyamide powders useful in the present invention may also include those sold under the name SP500 by the company TORAY.

As a preferred filler of the present invention, mention may be made of lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose and mixtures thereof.

The (b-1) filler(s), if any, are in amounts generally ranging from 0.5% to 20%, and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Non-phenyl silicone oil

(b-2) Non-phenyl silicone oil may comprise a single type of non-phenyl silicone oil or two or more types of non-phenyl silicone oils in combination.

Herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5% by weight.

The expression “silicone oil” here designates an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The term “non-phenyl silicone oil” or “non-phenylated silicone oil” means silicone oil not containing a phenyl group.

The (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oil(s) of the present invention can provide the composition with adhesiveness to keratinous fibers, particularly eyelashes. Thus, the (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oil(s) can provide strength to the composition.

Non-phenyl silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

The term “volatile” herein refers to a substance that has a flash point below 100°C. The term “non-volatile” herein refers to a substance that has a flash point of 100°C or more.

Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10"3 to 300 mmHg), ranging in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin or keratinous fibre, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10 ^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are preferably selected from oils with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 8 to 5,000 centistokes (cSt) (10 ^"6 m ² /s), more preferably from 10 to 1,000 cSt, more particularly from 50 to 500 cSt, and more preferably from 50 to 150 cSt. The viscosity can be measured according to DIN53018.

Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicone); alkyl dimethicones, vinylmethyl methicones, as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

• les PDMS comprenant des groupes alkyle ou alcoxy, qui sont pendants et/ou à l’extrémité de la chaîne silicone, ces groupes contenant chacun de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone,
• les PDMS comprenant des groupes aliphatiques ou des groupes fonctionnels tels que des groupes hydroxyle, thiol et/ou amine,
• les polyalkylméthylsiloxanes facultativement substitués par un groupe fluoré, tels que les polyméthyltrifluoropropyldiméthylsiloxanes,
• les polyalkylméthylsiloxanes substitués par des groupes fonctionnels tels que les groupes hydroxyle, thiol et/ou amine, tels que dihydroxydiméthylsiloxane (diméthiconol)
• les polysiloxanes modifiés avec des acides gras, des alcools gras ou des polyoxyalkylènes, et
• leurs mélanges.

Thus, the non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include:

• PDMS comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
• PDMS comprising aliphatic groups or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
• polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,
• polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, such as dihydroxydimethylsiloxane (dimethiconol)
• polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and
• their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the non-phenylated silicone oil is chosen from linear non-phenylated silicone oils.

According to one embodiment, the non-phenylated silicone oil is chosen from non-volatile linear non-phenylated silicone oils.

The non-volatile non-phenylated linear silicone oil can be chosen in particular from silicones of formula:

• R₁, R₂, R₅et R₆sont, ensemble ou séparément, un radical alkyle contenant 1 à 6 atomes de carbone,
• R₃et R₄sont, ensemble ou séparément, un radical alkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un radical vinyle, un radical amine ou un radical hydroxyle,
• X est un radical alkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un radical hydroxyle ou un radical amine, et
• n et p sont des nombres entiers choisis de manière à avoir un composé fluide.

in which:

• R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
• R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
• X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, and
• n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound.

• les substituants R₁à R₆et X représentent un groupe méthyle, et p et n sont tels que la viscosité est de 500 000 cSt, par exemple le produit vendu sous le nom SE30 par la société General Electric, le produit vendu sous le nom AK 500000 par la société Wacker, le produit vendu sous le nom Mirasil DM 500 000 par la société Bluestar et le produit vendu sous le nom Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt par la société Dow Corning,
• les substituants R₁à R₆et X représentent un groupe méthyle, et p et n sont tels que la viscosité est de 300 000 cSt, par exemple le produit vendu sous le nom Wacker Belsil DM 300 000 par la société Wacker,
• les substituants R₁à R₆et X représentent un groupe méthyle, et p et n sont tels que la viscosité est de 60 000 cSt, par exemple le produit vendu sous le nom Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS par la société Dow Corning, et le produit vendu sous le nom Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 par la société Wacker,
• les substituants R₁à R₆et X représentent un groupe méthyle, et p et n sont tels que la viscosité dynamique est de 350 cSt, par exemple le produit vendus sous le nom Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS par la société Dow Corning, et
• les substituants R₁à R₆représentent un groupe méthyle, le groupe X représente un groupe hydroxyle, et n et p sont tels que la viscosité est de 700 cSt, par exemple le produit vendu sous le nom Baysilone Fluid T0.7 par la société Momentive.

As non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of those for which:

• the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by the company Bluestar and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
• the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 300,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 300,000 by the Wacker company,
• the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the Dow Corning company, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the Wacker company,
• the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the dynamic viscosity is 350 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning, and
• the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes cycliques comprenant de 3 à 7 et préférentiellement, de 4 à 5 atomes de silicium. Il s’agit, par exemple, de l’octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane vendu en particulier sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7207 par Union Carbide ou Silbione® 70045 V2 par Rhodia, du décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7158 par Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 par Rhodia, et du dodécaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Silsoft 1217 par Momentive Performance Materials, et leurs mélanges. On peut également citer les cyclocopolymères du type diméthylsiloxane/méthylalkylsiloxane, tels que Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 vendu par la société Union Carbide, de formule :

The volatile non-phenylated silicone oils may be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

1. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes volatils linéaires contenant 2 à 9 atomes de silicium et ayant une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 5×10^-6m²/s à 25 °C. Un exemple est le décaméthyltétrasiloxane vendu en particulier sous le nom de SH 200 par la société Toray Silicone. Des silicones appartenant à cette catégorie sont également décrits dans l’article publié dans Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers,Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. La viscosité des silicones est mesurée à 25 °C selon la norme ASTM 445 Annexe C.

Also exemplary are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

1. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

The (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oil is preferentially selected from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil and, more preferentially, non-volatile linear non-phenyl silicone oil, such as dimethicone.

The (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oil(s), if any, are in amounts generally ranging from 0.5% to 20%, and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Phenyl silicone oil

(b-3) Phenyl silicone oil may comprise a single type of phenyl silicone oil or two or more types of phenyl silicone oils in combination.

The (b-3) phenyl silicone oil(s) of the present invention can provide the composition with adhesiveness to keratinous fibers, particularly eyelashes. Thus, the (b-3) phenyl silicone oil(s) can provide strength to the composition.

Phenyl silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

• es huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule suivante ;

Representative examples of such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include:

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula;

(I)

• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule suivante ;

formula (I) in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six phenyl groups,

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula;

(II)

• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule suivante ;

formula (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five phenyl groups. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above may be used. Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes,

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula;

(III)

• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule suivante ;

formula (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenyl silicone is notably manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The cosmetic fluid with the reference Dow Corning 554 can also be used,

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula;

(IV)

• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule (V) ci-dessous ;

formula (IV) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )(Ph).

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below;

(V)

• des huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule (VI) ci-dessous, et leurs mélanges :

formula (V) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe ₃ and y is 0 or ranges from 1 to 1,000, and z ranges from 1 to 1,000, such that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y ranges from 1 to 1,000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. It is possible to use, for example, phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,

• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and their mixtures:

(VI)

• R₁à R₁₀, indépendamment les uns des autres, sont des radicaux à base d'hydrocarbures en C₁-C₃₀saturés ou insaturés, linéaires, cycliques ou ramifiés,
• m, n, p et q sont, indépendamment les uns des autres, des nombres entiers compris entre 0 et 900, sous réserve que la somme m+n+q soit différente de 0, préférentiellement, la somme m+n+q est comprise entre 1 et 100. Avantageusement, la somme m+n+p+q est comprise entre 1 et 900 et mieux encore entre 1 et 800. Préférentiellement, q est égal à 0,
• des huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule (VII) ci-dessous, et leurs mélanges ;

formula (VI) in which:

• R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,
• m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m+n+q is different from 0, preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0,
• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof;

(VII)

• R₁à R₆, indépendamment les uns des autres, sont des radicaux à base d'hydrocarbures en C₁-C₃₀saturés ou insaturés, linéaires, cycliques ou ramifiés,
• m, n et p sont, indépendamment les uns des autres, des nombres entiers compris entre 0 et 100, sous réserve que la somme n+m soit comprise entre 1 et 100 ; préférentiellement, R₁à R₆,indépendamment les uns des autres, représentent un radical à base d'hydrocarbures saturé, linéaire ou ramifié en C₁-C₃₀et notamment en C₁-C₁₂et en particulier un radical méthyle, éthyle, propyle ou butyle ; R₁à R₆peuvent notamment être identiques, et de plus peuvent être un radical méthyle ; préférentiellement, m = 1 ou 2 ou 3, et/ou n = 0 et/ou p = 0 ou 1 peuvent s’appliquer, dans la formule (VII),
• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule (VIII), et leurs mélanges :

formula (VII) in which:

• R ₁ to R ₆ , independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,
• m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100; preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ , independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ and in particular C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical; R ₁ to R ₆ may in particular be identical, and may also be a methyl radical; preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 may apply, in formula (VII),
• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and their mixtures:

(VIII)

• R est un radical alkyle en C₁-C₃₀, un radical aryle ou un radical aralkyle,
• n est un nombre entier allant de 0 à 100, et
• m est un nombre entier allant de 0 à 100, sous réserve que la somme n+m aille de 1 à 100. En particulier, les radicaux R de la formule (VIII) et R₁à R₁₀définis précédemment peuvent représenter chacun un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, notamment en C₂-C₂₀, en particulier en C₃-C₁₆et plus particulièrement en C₄-C₁₀, ou un radical aryle monocyclique ou polycyclique en C₆-C₁₄et notamment en C₁₀-C₁₃, ou un radical aryle dont les résidus aryle et alkyle sont tels que définis précédemment. Préférentiellement, R de la formule (VIII) et R₁à R₁₀peuvent représenter chacun un radical méthyle, éthyle, propyle, isopropyle, décyle, dodécyle ou octadécyle, ou en variante un radical phényle, tolyle, benzyle ou phénéthyle. Selon un mode de réalisation, une huile de phényl silicone de formule (VIII) avec une viscosité à 25 °C comprise entre 5 et 1 500 mm²/s (soit 5 à 1 500 cSt), et préférentiellement avec une viscosité comprise entre 5 et 1 000 mm²/s (soit 5 à 1 000 cSt) peut être utilisée. En tant qu’huiles de phényl silicone de formule (VIII), il est notamment possible d’utiliser des phényl triméthicones telles que DC556 de Dow Corning (22,5 cSt), l’huile Silbione 70663V30 de Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt) ou des diphényl diméthicones telles que les huiles Belsil, notamment Belsil PDM1000 (1 000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) et Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) de Wacker. Les valeurs entre parenthèses représentent les viscosités à 25°C.
• les huiles de phényl silicone correspondant à la formule suivante, et leurs mélanges :

formula (VIII) in which:

• R is a _C1 - _C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical,
• n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and
• m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R ₁ to R ₁₀ defined above may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, in particular C ₂ -C ₂₀ , in particular C ₃ -C ₁₆ and more particularly C ₄ -C ₁₀ , or a monocyclic or polycyclic aryl radical in C ₆ -C ₁₄ and in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ , or an aryl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined above. Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1,500 mm ² /s (i.e. 5 to 1,500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1,000 mm ² /s (i.e. 5 to 1,000 cSt) may be used. As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), it is possible to use, among others, phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione oil 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, in particular Belsil PDM1000 (1,000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
• phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures:

(IX)

• R₁, R₂, R₅et R₆sont, ensemble ou séparément, un radical alkyle contenant 1 à 6 atomes de carbone,
• R₃, et R₄sont, ensemble ou séparément, un radical alkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ou un radical aryle,
• X est un radical alkyle contenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un radical hydroxyle ou un radical vinyle,
• n et p étant choisis de manière à donner à l’huile une masse moléculaire moyenne en poids inférieure à 200 000 g/mol, préférentiellement inférieure à 150 000 g/mol et plus préférentiellement inférieure à 100 000 g/mol.

formula (IX) in which:

• R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
• R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,
• X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
• n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight average molecular mass of less than 200,000 g/mol, preferably less than 150,000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol.

The phenyl silicones most particularly suitable for use in the present invention may be those corresponding to formulas (II) and in particular to formulas (III), (V) and (VIII) above.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil used according to the present invention can range from 500 to 10,000 g/mol.

The amount of the (b) strength-imparting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) strength-imparting agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) resistance-conferring agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight in total, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Hydrocarbon oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Two (c) or more hydrocarbon oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrocarbon oil or a combination of different types of hydrocarbon oils may be used.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" (or "hydrocarbon oil" or "hydrocarbon oil") means an oil consisting essentially of, or consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Hydrocarbon oil can be a non-polar oil.

Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

In one aspect, the term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil having an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm ² /min at room temperature and pressure. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil having an evaporation rate of strictly 0.01 mg/cm ² /min or more at room temperature and pressure.

(c) Hydrocarbon oil is preferentially volatile.

According to one embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point greater than 65°C, and more preferably greater than 80°C.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made in particular of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof, or branched esters, such as branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, for example, isohexyl neopentanoate.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 of the company Cognis.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be preferably selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of 65°C or higher, and preferably 80°C or higher.

• les huiles à base d’hydrocarbures d’origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides d’acides gras contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, par exemple les triglycérides d’acide caprylique/caprique, tels que ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les noms Miglyol 810®, 812® et 818® par Dynamit Nobel ; les triglycérides d’acides gras ramifiés en C₁₈-C₃₆et de glycérol, tels que ceux vendus sous le nom DUB TGI 24® par Stearineries Dubois (nom INCI C18-36 Acid Triglyceride) ;
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, d’origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les paraffines liquides et leurs dérivés, la gelée de pétrole, les polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam® ou le squalène ; et
• leurs mélanges.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, we can cite:

• Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing more than 16 carbon atoms, for example caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ branched fatty acids and glycerol, such as those sold under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stearineries Dubois (INCI name C18-36 Acid Triglyceride);
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® or squalene; and
• their mixtures.

The hydrocarbon-based oil (c) is preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, more preferably branched C ₈ -C _{16 alkanes,} such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and their mixture.

In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the (c) hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least two types of hydrocarbon-based oils, which is preferentially selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, more preferentially C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched alkanes, in particular isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and their mixture.

The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (c) hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Optional ingredients)

- Pigment

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pigment. Two or more pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of pigment or a combination of different types of pigments may be used.

The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition. These pigments may be white or colored and mineral and/or organic.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used in the present invention are chosen from mineral pigments. The expression "mineral pigment" designates any inorganic pigment. Among the mineral pigments which are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxides, such as zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium dioxide as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, as well as manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for example aluminum powder or copper powder, or any combination thereof. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO, ZrO ₂ in the form of a mixture with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ or ZnS. In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The average particle size of the coated pigment is generally 200 nm or more. The average particle size of the coated pigment according to the present invention may range from 200 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. For the purposes of the present invention, the D50 size, or volume average size, corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size greater than D50. The volume average size can be assessed by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium, for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

Pigments may also be nacres and/or particles with metallic reflections. The term "nacres" should be understood as designating iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic dyeing materials are superimposed.

The pigment of the present invention is subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment. In other words, the pigment of the present invention has a hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic coating preferably comprises at least one hydrophobic compound, preferably selected from fatty substances, silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, fluorosilicone surfactants, metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids and their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pigment subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment is coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

The type of fat substance is not limited. A single type of fat substance or a combination of different types of fat substances can be used.

As used herein, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferably 0.1%). The fatty substance may comprise, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. The fatty substance is generally a lipophilic substance, and may be soluble in organic solvents, for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

In one embodiment, the fatty substance is an oil. As used herein, “oil” refers to any fatty substance that is not in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Any oils that are suitable for cosmetic use may be used in the present invention. Suitable oils may include both volatile and non-volatile oils.

The fatty substance may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and wax, preferably from hydrocarbon oils and wax.

Hydrocarbon oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Examples of animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oils may include, but are not limited to, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.

Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin may include oils called vegetable oils or plant oils. Examples of hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin may include, but are not limited to, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, Rosa canina oil, sweet almond oil, coriander oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, canola oil, apricot oil, mango oil, walnut oil, poppy seed oil, barley oil, rye oil, and mixtures thereof. Among the latter, jojoba oil, in particular jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, in particular olive fruit oil, Rosa canina oil, in particular Rosa canina fruit oil, and mixtures thereof

Mineral or synthetic hydrocarbon-based oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and examples of such oils may include, but are not limited to, liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly (mineral oil), hydrogenated isoparaffin or hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, perhydrosqualene, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. Of these, mineral oil in particular may be used preferentially.

In one embodiment, the fatty substance is a wax. As used herein, “wax” refers to a fatty substance that is substantially solid at room temperature under atmospheric pressure, and has a melting point of 30°C or higher, for example. Representative examples of such waxes may include: waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, for example, candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lanolin wax, montan wax and ozokerites; hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes; and silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters. Of these, candelilla wax may be preferentially used.

The fatty substance may also be selected from fatty acids, synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols and fatty amides.

Examples of fatty acids include higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, for example, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids such as stearic acid; unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic esters and ethers may include, but are not limited to, oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ -OR ₂ wherein R ₁ is the residue of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; or lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, may be used.

Other examples of esters may include, for example, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or stearate octyl), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (or dioctyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl malate (or octyl malate), pentaerythrityl caprate/caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (or octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, Isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (or octyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate) and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.

The fatty alcohol that may be useful in the present invention may be non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols that may be preferentially used in the present invention are in liquid, or non-solid, form at room temperature. Examples of fatty alcohol may include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. Myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and myricyl alcohol may also be used.

Examples of fatty amides include isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

The fatty substances may also be volatile or non-volatile silicone oils. Examples of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils that are preferentially used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyldiphenyltrisilanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polyphenylsiloxanes.

Fluorinated oils which may be suitable for the present invention may include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and nonafluoromethoxybutane.

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, waxes and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils of plant or mineral origin, waxes and their mixtures, more preferentially chosen from the group consisting of jojoba oil, in particular jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, in particular olive fruit oil, rosa canina oil, in particular rosa canina fruit oil, candelilla wax and their mixtures.

Silicone surfactants may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate (co)polymers, silicone resins and mixtures thereof. The term organopolysiloxane denotes a compound having a structure comprising alternating silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms.

The fluorinated surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides or polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. The term perfluoroalkyl radical denotes an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

The fluorosilicone surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

The hydrophobic compound may also be chosen from metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. As metallic soaps, mention may be made in particular of metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and, in particular, those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metallic soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof may be used.

The hydrophobic compound may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. In this way, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may be particularly a glutamic acid derivative and/or any of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

The amount of the hydrophobic compound, preferably of the fatty substance(s) in the hydrophobic coating is 50% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 95% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobic coating.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pigment subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment is selected from pigments coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, i.e. the surface of the pigments is coated with or treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

The pigments subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The isopropyl titanium triisostearate surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted to the surface of the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

The pigment(s) may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, and/or may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Lipophilic gelling agent

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. If two or more lipophilic gelling agents are used, they may be the same or different.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” means an agent capable of gelling the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent which is preferentially particulate.

The term “particulate” lipophilic gelling agent means a lipophilic gelling agent in the form of particles or crystals (particulate or crystalline).

According to the present invention, the lipophilic gelling agent is preferentially chosen from organomodified clays.

Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, with a lamellar structure.

Clays can be natural or synthetic, and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt, such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, particularly stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Organomodified clays may be clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox. Examples include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company Elementis.

The lipophilic gelling agents may also be chosen from hydrophobic fumed silicas, which may be obtained by modifying the surface of the silica via a chemical reaction that generates a reduction in the number of silanol groups, these groups being optionally substituted in particular by hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxy groups, which are obtained in particular by treating the fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are known as “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ^® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ^® by the company Cabot. The hydrophobic groups may be dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silicas thus treated are known as “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA dictionary (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 ^® and Aerosil R974 ^® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610 ^® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ^® by the company Cabot .

The lipophilic gelling agents may also be chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogels, such as the products sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1,000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g; mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova ^® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200

Lipophilic gelling agents may also be selected from lipophilic polymer thickeners which may be selected from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer) or polymers having the INCI name “Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate”, such as Intelimer® products from Air Products, such as Intelimer® IPA 13-1 product, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or Intelimer® IPA 13-6 product, which is a behenyl polymer.

It may be preferable if the lipophilic gelling agent is an organomodified clay, particularly disteardimonium hectorite.

The amount of the lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, and/or may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Alkyl or alkylene carbonate

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate. A single type of alkyl or alkylene carbonate or a combination of different types of alkyl or alkylene carbonate may be used in the composition according to the present invention.

The alkyl or alkylene carbonate may have a thickening aid function, which functions to thicken the composition of the present invention with the thickeners.

According to one embodiment, the alkylene chain(s) of the alkylene carbonate(s) and/or the alkyl radical(s) of the alkyl carbonate(s) present in the composition comprise from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

According to another embodiment, the sum of the carbons of the alkylene chain(s) of the alkyl carbonate(s) and/or the sum of the carbons of the alkyl group(s) of the alkyl carbonate(s) present in the composition range from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

The alkylene carbonates are in particular chosen from those of formula (4) below:

• R' désigne un atome d’hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, un radical hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié ;
• R'' représente un atome d’hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, un radical hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié ;
• m vaut 1, 2 ou 3.

formula (4) in which

• R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
• R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
• m is 1, 2 or 3.

Preferably, the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched _C1 - _C2 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

Preferably, m is 1.

Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include compounds for which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R' = -CH ₂ OH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).

Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

The alkyl carbonates are in particular chosen from those of formula (5) below:

R'-O-CO-O-R'

• R' désigne un radical alkyle en C₁-C₅linéaire ou ramifié, un radical hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié ;
• R'' représente un radical alkyle en C₁-C₅linéaire ou ramifié, un radical hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié ;

formula (5) in which

• R' denotes a linear or branched _C1 - _C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
• R'' represents a linear or branched _C1 - _C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;

the sum of the carbons of R' and R'' ranging from 2 to 6.

Preferably, the radical R' represents a linear _C1 - _C3 alkyl radical or a linear _C1 - _C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

R'' represents a linear C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl radical or a linear C ₁ -C ₂ hydroxyalkyl radical.

More particularly, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate may be mentioned.

The carbonates according to the invention are preferably alkylene carbonates and more particularly propylene carbonate.

The alkyl or alkylene carbonate(s) may be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and/or may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the thickening aid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Other optional additives

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additive(s) usually used in the field of cosmetics, chosen, for example, from solvents, gums, resins, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, perfumes, anti-UV agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protective agents, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most preferably it does not comprise water.

In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise water, or comprises water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Process and usage]

The composition according to the present invention can be used for coating keratinous fibers, and more preferably eyelashes.

For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used by a process of coating keratinous fibers, comprising the step:

application to the keratinous fibers of the composition according to the present invention to form at least one coating on the keratinous fibers.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, comprising the steps:

application of the composition according to the present invention.

The above cosmetic process may be intended to provide the keratinous fibers with curl, as well as to maintain the curl of the keratinous fibers (i.e., to retain the curl) with long-lasting properties.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

The cosmetic compositions (mascaras) for eyelashes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 until they became homogeneous. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials.

[Evaluations]

(Long term resistance)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was coated on a plastic sheet with a thickness of 300 μm and allowed to dry for 1 hour at room temperature to prepare a film of a deposit. A droplet of artificial sebum or water was dropped onto the surface of the dry deposit and kept in contact for 24 hours. After removing the droplet from the surface, a chemical resistance of the deposit was then evaluated by rubbing the deposit with a finger. Evaluation of a deposit resistance was carried out with respect to the aspects of stickiness and disintegration of the deposit in accordance with the following criteria.

Very good: No damage was observed on the film.

Good: A slight change was observed on the surface, but no damage.

Bad: Damage was observed on the film and it was sticky.

Very bad: The film was completely destroyed.

(Bending retention capacity)

1. Les faux cils ont été immergés successivement pendant 1 minute dans de l’eau, du sébum artificiel et une solution de gel douche à température ambiante et frottés avec un doigt après chaque immersion dans un solvant. Cette séquence constitue un cycle de l’essai.
2. L’angle de recourbement du faux cil a été analysé à l’aide d’un microscope numérique VHS-5000.
3. Les opérations 1 et 2 ont été répétées 4 fois = 4 cycles au total.

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied by hand with a mascara brush on the eyelashes of the 6 testers (30 strokes each). The false eyelash was immersed in different media by the following steps.

1. The false eyelashes were successively immersed for 1 minute in water, artificial sebum and a shower gel solution at room temperature and rubbed with a finger after each immersion in a solvent. This sequence constitutes one cycle of the test.
2. The curl angle of the false eyelash was analyzed using a VHS-5000 digital microscope.
3. Operations 1 and 2 were repeated 4 times = 4 cycles in total.

The curling was evaluated by comparing the angle difference between the initial time and after the 4 cycles. The curl retention ability of each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria.

Very good: The bend angle was greater than or equal to 30 degrees.

Good: The bend angle was greater than or equal to 15 degrees and less than 30 degrees.

Bad: The bend angle was greater than or equal to 10 degrees and less than 15 degrees.

Very poor: The bend angle was less than 10 degrees.

(Hot water resistance)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied by hand with a mascara brush to false eyelashes (30 strokes each). The false eyelash was immersed in a water bath at 45 °C and kept under agitation in the medium for 1 hour. The false eyelashes were then rubbed (10 strokes) with a finger and the coating adhesion and deposition quality on the false eyelash were evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very good: No change in coating was observed on the false eyelash.

Good: A slight change in coating was observed but was preserved on the false eyelash

Bad: Some of the coating has been removed from the false eyelash

Very bad: The coating has been completely removed from the false eyelash.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex.
Comp. 1 Ex.
Comp. 2 Ex.
Comp. 3 Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer 39.5 39.5 39.5 - - 45 Acrylates/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer - - - 28.5 45 - Acrylates/copolymer
polytrimethylsil-oxymethacrylate - - - 7.2 - - Lauroyl Lysine 5 5 - - - - Dimethicone 6 - 6 - - - Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane - - - 3 - - Iron oxides (and) Isopropyl titanium triisostearate 5 5 5 6.65 5 5 Ethanol - - - 2.2 - - Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.1 2.1 2.1 3.75 2.1 2.1 Propylene carbonate 0.7 0.7 0.7 1 0.7 0.7 Isohexadecane 2.2 2.2 2.2 - - - Isododecane qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Reviews Long term resistance Sebum resistance Very good Very good Very good Very good Bad Very good Water resistance Very good Very good Very good Very good Very good Very good Bending retention capacity Very good Very good Very good Very bad Very bad Good Hot water resistance Good Good Good Very good Good Bad

As shown in Table 1, the cosmetic composition according to Examples 1 to 3, which comprise ingredients (a) to (c) of the present invention, exhibited improved resistance and curl holding effects.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which lacks the (a) acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain, exhibited poor curl retention ability. In addition, the long-term resistance to sebum was also poor for the composition according to Comparative Example 2. Similarly, the cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 3, which lacks the resistance-imparting agent of the present invention, exhibited poor resistance to hot water.

Accordingly, it can be understood that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, in particular as an eyelash makeup composition, such as mascara, because it can provide the keratinous fiber with improved long-term resistance as well as a curl-holding effect.

Claims (10)

Composition for keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising:
(a) at least one acrylic polymer having at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl side chain;
(b) at least one strength-imparting agent selected from (b-1) fillers, (b-2) non-phenyl silicone oils and (b-3) phenyl silicone oils; and
(c) at least one hydrocarbon oil. The composition of claim 1, wherein the _C8 - _C30 alkyl side chain of (a) acrylic polymer is linear and saturated. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the (a) acrylic polymer comprises at least one unit derived from at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylate. Composition according to claim 3, in which the alkyl (meth)acrylate (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) is selected from isodecyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, isostearyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate and hexadecyl (meth)acrylate. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (a) acrylic polymer is not crosslinked. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) strength-imparting agent comprises (b-1) at least one filler selected from lauroyl lysine, talc, cellulose and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (b) the resistance-conferring agent comprises (b-2) at least one non-phenyl silicone oil selected from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the (c) hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) hydrocarbon oil comprises at least two types of hydrocarbon oils. Cosmetic process for making up keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, comprising the step:
application to the keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous substance.