FR3145283A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING MODIFIED STARCH, A C13-C15 FATTY ACID AND AN ORGANIC SALT POWDER - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING MODIFIED STARCH, A C 13 -C 15 FATTY ACID AND AN ORGANIC SALT POWDER The present invention relates to a composition, comprising (a) at least one modified starch; (b) at least one C13-15 fatty acid; (c) at least one powdered organic salt and (d) water. The composition according to the present invention can provide exceptional ease of foaming and leads to an improved quantity of foam. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING MODIFIED STARCH, A C13-C15 FATTY ACID AND A POWDERED ORGANIC SALT

The present invention relates to a composition comprising a modified starch, a C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid and a powdered organic salt, as well as to a use of the composition.

PRIOR ART

Good foaming properties are very important for cosmetic foaming cleansers. The amount of foam is directly related to the perceived cleaning effectiveness of the composition for consumers. Consumers also tend to prefer cosmetic foaming cleansers that foam easily.

To date, cosmetic foaming cleansing products have been reported in the prior art. For example, JP-A-2020-180062 discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one modified starch, (b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, and (c) at least one clay, which is stable, and can be rinsed from the skin and can leave a reinforced clay deposit on the skin after rinsing the composition from the skin.

Furthermore, JP-A-2022-95240 discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one modified starch; (b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ acid; (c) at least one clay; and (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant, which can be rinsed from a keratinous substance such as skin and can leave a reinforced clay deposit on the keratinous substance after rinsing the composition from the skin.

However, there is still a need to enhance the foaming properties of rinse-off cosmetic compositions.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising clay with improved foaming properties in terms of foam volume as well as ease of foaming.

The above objective can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one modified starch;

(b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ acid;

(c) at least one powdered organic salt, and

(d) water.

The modified starch (a) may be hydrophobic, preferably hydroxyalkyl modified starch, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and a mixture thereof.

The amount of (a) modified starch in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(b) The _C13 - _C15 fatty acid may be myristic acid.

The amount of (b) C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(c) Powdered organic salt may be insoluble in water.

The (c) powdered organic salt may be selected from fatty acid salts, modified polysaccharide salts and a combination thereof.

(c) Powdered organic salt may be powdered organometallic salts.

The amount of (c) powdered organic salt in the composition may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(a) Modified starch and (b) _C13 - _C15 fatty acid can form a complex.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one clay.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C _{15 fatty acid,} preferably comprising a combination of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and at least one fatty acid containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off composition and, more preferably, a rinse-off cleansing composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising the step:

of application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous substance.

After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a composition with improved foaming properties in terms of ease of foaming and foam volume, and thus finalized the invention.

The composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of (a) at least one modified starch, (b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, (c) at least one powdered organic salt and (d) water.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[Composition]

One aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one modified starch;

(b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid;

(c) at least one powdered organic salt; and

(d) water.

Each of the ingredients will be described in more detail below.

(Modified starch)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one modified starch. A single type of modified starch may be used, or two or more different types of modified starches may be used in combination.

(a) The modified starch may be in powder form. In other words, the modified starch (a) may be in particle form. In this case, the particle size of the (a) modified starch is not limited.

It is preferable that (a) the modified starch is film-forming, i.e. capable of forming a film.

(a) Modified starch is based on commodity starch. Commodity starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is a starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques, including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation or any other process of genetic or chromosomal engineering, to include variations thereof, are also suitable. In addition, starches derived from a plant obtained from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which can be produced by known standard mutation breeding methods, are also suitable for use herein.

Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna and sorghum, as well as low and high amylose varieties thereof. As used herein, the term "low amylose starch" is intended to include a starch containing not more than about 10%, particularly not more than 5%, and more particularly not more than 2% by weight of amylose. As used herein, the term "high amylose starch" is intended to include a starch containing at least about 50%, particularly at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% by weight of amylose. High amylose starches may be preferable.

(a) The modified starch may be pregelatinized. Pregelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known in the art and disclosed, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953 and 5,149,799. See also Chapter XXII, “Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch,” Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. III-Industrial Aspects, R. L. Whistler and E. F. Paschall, Editors, Academic Press, New York 1967. The term pregelatinized is intended to refer to swollen starch particles, which have lost their birefringence and/or Maltese crosses in polarized light. These pregelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking. In this context, “soluble” does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but can also mean a colloidal dispersion. In one embodiment, the starch is completely pregelatinized.

Pregelatinized modified starch is readily and rapidly soluble, even in cold water.

Pre-gelatinization can be achieved by methods including, but not limited to, drum drying, extrusion, and spray drying. In one embodiment, extrusion is used for simultaneous cooking and drying of the starch (see, for example, U.S. Patent No. 3,137,592). This method utilizes physical treatment of a starch/water mixture at elevated temperatures and pressures, resulting in gelatinization of the starch, followed by expansion after leaving the nozzle with sudden evaporation of the water.

In one embodiment, pre-gelatinization is performed to provide good solubility and remove undissolved particles, which can give rise to an unpleasant, gritty feel in the composition.

In one embodiment, the starch has a majority of intact starch granules. Aqueous dispersions of pregelatinized starch derivatives having a largely intact granular structure generally have a smoother, more uniform texture than aqueous dispersions of starches without granular structure, which may have a slightly abrasive feel. In the case of pregelatinized starches with an intact granular structure, the native internal hydrogen bond structure is destroyed, but the external shape is maintained.

(a) The modified starch may be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the starch chains may be achieved by suitable crosslinking agents, i.e., bifunctional compounds. In one embodiment, the crosslinking method used is phosphorylation, in which the starch is reacted with phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentoxide and/or sodium trimetaphosphate. Two starch chains are crosslinked by an anionic group PO. The anionic character of the crosslinking sites contributes to the emulsion stabilizing action of the starch to be used according to the present invention. In another embodiment, the crosslinking method is carried out using C ₄ -C ₁₈ alkene or alkane dicarboxylic acids which include, without limitation, C ₄ -C _{8 alkane dicarboxylic acids,} an example of which is adipic acid. The alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acid links two starch chains via ester bonds. It can be in straight or branched chain form. The derivatives can be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with the mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acid and acetic acid. In one embodiment, less than 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. In another embodiment, about 0.06 to 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used.

It is preferred that (a) the modified starch be hydrophobic. It is more preferred that the surface of (a) the modified starch be hydrophobic.

Modification to make starch hydrophobic can be done by grafting hydrophobic functional groups such as C _1-6 acyl (acetyl), C _1-6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic group.

The alkyl moiety of the functional group may have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms and, more preferably, 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

It is preferred that (a) the modified starch is hydroxyalkyl modified starch.

The position of the hydroxyl group, which is bonded to the starch backbone via an alkyl group such as 2 to 6 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, is not critical and may be in the alpha to omega position. In a suitable embodiment, the degree of substitution of the hydroxyalkylation is about 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups of the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. Hydroxyalkylation of a starch may be brought about by reacting a native starch with alkylene oxides with the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, hydroxypropylation by reacting the starch with propylene oxide. The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group.

The hydroxyalkyl modified starch may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and a mixture thereof.

The processes for preparing the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch can be carried out in any order. However, one skilled in the art would appreciate the advantages of certain orders. For example, hydroxypropylation would generally be carried out before crosslinking, if the starch is crosslinked, with phosphorus oxychloride because the typical hydroxypropylation process would destroy some of the resulting crosslinking.

Examples of hydroxyalkyl modified starch preferentially used in the present invention may include the following:

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pregelatinized corn starch) marketed by Akzo Nobel under the names Structure ZEA and XL; and

Modified corn starch (hydroxypropylated, pregelatinized, high amylose content) marketed by Nouryon, under the name AMAZE.

The amount of (a) modified starch in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of (a) modified starch in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a) modified starch in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper limit values and lower limit values may be available to represent the preferred range of the quantity.

( _C13 - _C15 fatty acid)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid. A single type of C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, or two or more different types of C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acids may be used in combination.

It is preferred that (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid is saturated. The saturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be selected from the group consisting of tridecylic acid (tridecanoic acid), myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) and pentadecylic acid (pentadecanoic acid).

It is possible that (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid is unsaturated. The unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be selected from the group consisting of tridecenoic acid, myristoleic acid (tetradecenoic acid) and pentadecenoic acid.

It is preferred that (b) the _C13 - _C15 fatty acid is myristic acid.

The amount of (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably still 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount (weight) of (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid / the amount (weight) of (a) the modified starch may be 1.0 or more, preferably 2.0 or more, more preferably 3.0 or more, and even more preferably 4.0 or more.

(a) Modified starch and (b) _C13 - _C15 fatty acid can form a complex.

(Organic salt powder)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one powdered organic salt. A single type of powdered organic salt may be used, or two or more different types of powdered organic salts may be used in combination.

(c) The powdered organic salt may act to improve the foaming properties of the composition according to the present invention.

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the (c) powdered organic salt can disrupt the network of water-based compositions, which facilitates the fusion of the composition with water when the composition comes into contact with water. It is believed that such a function of the powdered organic salt can give the composition better foaming properties, particularly ease of foaming.

The term “powder” used herein shall be understood as particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, in particular water.

(c) The powdered organic salt may be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

The average particle size of the (c) powdered organic salt is not limited. For example, the average particle size of the (c) powdered organic salt may be 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less. The average particle size of the (c) powdered organic salt may be 0.01 μm or more, and preferably 0.1 μm or more. The term “average particle size” used herein represents a number-average size average diameter that is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, denoted by D50. For example, the number-average size average diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

(c) Powdered organic salt may be insoluble in water.

The term "water-insoluble" herein denotes substances which are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

A cationic fraction of the powdered organic salt may be selected from metal cations and organic cations. Preferably, the cationic fraction of the powdered organic salt is selected from metal cations. Thus, the (c) powdered organic salt is preferably a powdered organometallic salt.

(c) The powdered organic salt may be selected from organometallic salts with monovalent metal ion and organometallic salts with divalent or higher metal ion. The organometallic salts with monovalent metal ion may include sodium salts, potassium salts, cesium salts and lithium salts. The organometallic salts with divalent or higher metal ion may include calcium salts, magnesium salts, cobalt salts, nickel salts, copper salts, iron salts, manganese salts, strontium salts, molybdenum salts, barium salts, zinc salts and aluminum salts.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the powdered organometallic salt may be selected from organometallic salts with divalent or higher metal ion, and more preferably from calcium salts, magnesium salts and aluminum salts.

The (c) powdered organic salt may also be selected from organic salts with monovalent organic ions, such as ammonium salts, sulfonium salts and phosphonium salts.

The powdered organic salt may be selected from fatty acid salts, modified polysaccharide salts, and a combination thereof.

The fatty acid salt(s) may comprise a long hydrophobic hydrocarbon chain, which is linear or branched and saturated and unsaturated, for example, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in the form of a carboxylate anion (a fatty acyl); and a cation, as illustrated in the following formula:

(RC(=O)-O-) _n M( ⁿ⁺ )

wherein R is a substituted or unsubstituted straight or branched hydrocarbon chain of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, M ⁺ is a cation, and n is an integer representing the number of fatty acyls that interact with the cation, and also represents the charge number of the cation (e.g., 1, 2, 3, etc.).

Fatty acid salts that are useful in some embodiments of the present invention may contain 1 to 3 fatty acyl chains, and preferably two chains. Thus, the fatty acid salt may be a salt of a monovalent ion, a divalent ion or a trivalent ion, and preferably a divalent ion.

Each fatty acyl chain, independently, may be linear or branched, saturated and unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated, and/or may comprise 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms in length.

The cations may be metal ions, such as a monovalent metal ion, a divalent metal ion and a trivalent metal ion. The monovalent metal ion may be selected from Na ⁺ , K ⁺ , Cs ⁺ and Li ⁺ . The divalent metal ion may be selected from Mg ^{2+ ,} Ca ²⁺ , Fe (II), Co ²⁺ , Ni ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Sr ²⁺ , Mo ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ and Zn ²⁺ . The trivalent metal ion may be selected from Fe(III) and Al ³⁺ . Preferably, the metal ion is selected from divalent metal ions, and more preferably Mg ²⁺ and Ca ^2+.

The cations may be organic cations, which may be selected from an ammonium cation, a sulfonium cation and a phosphonium cation.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid salt comprises metal ions, which are referred to as “fatty acid metal salts.”

The fatty acid of the fatty acid salts may be selected from linear or branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably linear and saturated fatty acids, which may comprise 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms in length. Examples of fatty acids that may be mentioned include stearic acid, arachidic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolaidic acid, arachidonic acid, myristoleic acid and erucic acid. Other fatty acids are also contemplated.

In certain preferred embodiments, the fatty acid salt is selected from fatty acid metal salts. Examples of fatty acid metal salts include, but are not limited to, magnesium stearate, magnesium oleate, calcium stearate, calcium linoleate, sodium stearate, magnesium arachidonate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium linoleate, calcium arachidonate, calcium myristoleate, sodium linoleate, calcium linoleate, sodium stearate, potassium stearate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, calcium laurate, calcium myristate, calcium palmitate, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc palmitate, zinc stearate, magnesium laurate, and magnesium myristate.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid metal salt is selected from calcium stearate, magnesium stearate and a combination thereof.

The modified polysaccharide salt may be water-insoluble modified polysaccharide salts. In one embodiment, the polysaccharide has been modified to be water-soluble. Thus, it is preferable that the modified polysaccharide is hydrophobic. It is more preferable that the surface of the modified polysaccharide is hydrophobic.

Preferably, the polysaccharide of the modified polysaccharide salt is starch. Thus, the modified polysaccharide salt is preferentially chosen from modified starch salts.

Modified starch is based on base starch. Starch is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is a starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques, including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation or any other process of genetic or chromosomal engineering, to include variations thereof, are also suitable. In addition, starches derived from a plant obtained from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which can be produced by known standard mutation breeding methods, are also suitable herein.

Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna and sorghum, as well as their low and high amylose varieties. High amylose starches may be preferable.

The modified starch may be pregelatinized. In one embodiment, the starch is completely pregelatinized. The pregelatinized modified starch is readily and rapidly soluble, even in cold water. In one embodiment, the pregelatinization is performed to provide good solubility and to remove undissolved particles, which can give rise to an unpleasant, gritty feel in the composition.

In one embodiment, the starch has a majority of intact starch granules. Aqueous dispersions of pregelatinized starch derivatives having a largely intact granular structure generally have a smoother, more uniform texture than aqueous dispersions of starches without granular structure, which may have a slightly abrasive feel. In the case of pregelatinized starches with an intact granular structure, the native internal hydrogen bond structure is destroyed, but the external shape is maintained.

The modified starch may be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the starch chains may be achieved by suitable crosslinking agents, i.e., bifunctional compounds. In one embodiment, the crosslinking method used is phosphorylation, in which the starch is reacted with phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentoxide, and/or sodium trimetaphosphate. Two starch chains are crosslinked by an anionic group PO. The anionic character of the crosslinking sites contributes to the emulsion stabilizing action of the starch to be used according to the present invention. In another embodiment, the crosslinking method is carried out using C ₄ -C ₁₈ alkene or alkane dicarboxylic acids which include, without limitation, C ₄ -C _{8 alkane dicarboxylic acids,} an example of which is adipic acid. The alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acid links two starch chains via ester bonds. It can be in straight or branched chain form. The derivatives can be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with the mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acid and acetic acid. In one embodiment, less than 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. In another embodiment, about 0.06 to 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used.

It is preferable that the modified starch is hydrophobic. It is more preferable that the surface of the modified starch is hydrophobic.

Modification to make starch hydrophobic can be done by grafting hydrophobic functional groups such as C _1-6 acyl (acetyl), C _1-6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), phosphate, alkyl phosphate, hydroxyalkyl phosphate, carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic group.

In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the modification is an esterification. In these embodiments, the modified starch may be selected from starches esterified with the C _1-6 acyl (acetyl), phosphate, alkyl phosphate, hydroxyalkyl phosphate or octenylsuccinic group, and more preferably the starch is modified with the octenylsuccinic group.

The modified polysaccharide salt may be metal salts of water-insoluble modified polysaccharides or organic salts of water-insoluble modified polysaccharides. In one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide salt is metal salts of water-insoluble modified polysaccharides. It is more preferable that the metal salts of the water-insoluble modified polysaccharides are the metal salts of modified starch.

In certain other preferred embodiments, the modified starch metal salt is selected from starch octenylsuccinate metal salts, such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and sodium starch octenylsuccinate, and more preferably aluminum starch octenylsuccinate.

The amount of the (c) powdered organometallic salt in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the (c) powdered organometallic salt in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) powdered organometallic salt in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

(d) Water may form a carrier for ingredients (a) to (c) in the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount (d) of water may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount (d) of water may be from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight and, more preferably, from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other ingredients)

- Clay

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one clay. Only one type of clay may be used, but two or more different types of clay may be used in combination.

The term "clay" refers to a naturally occurring material composed primarily of fine-grained minerals, which is generally plastic at an appropriate water content and hardens when dried or fired. Although clay usually contains phyllosilicates, it may contain other materials that impart plasticity and harden upon drying or firing. Associated phases in clay may include materials that do not impart plasticity and organic matter. A common definition is that of the Penguin Dictionary of Science, namely "finely divided rocky material whose mineral components are various silicates, chiefly of magnesium or aluminium". Clay includes kaolinite (typically defined as [Si ₄ ]Al ₄ O ₁₀ (OH) ₈ .nH ₂ O (n=0 or 4)), illite (typically defined as M _x [Si _6.8 Al _1.2 ]Al ₃ Fe _.025 Mg _.75 O ₂₀ (OH) ₄ ), vermiculite (typically defined as .M _x [Si ₇ Al]AlFe _.05 Mg _0.5 O ₂₀ (OH) ₄ ), smectite (typically defined as M _x [Si ₈ ]Al _3.2 Fe _0.2 Mg _0.6 O ₂₀ (OH) ₄ , chlorite (typically defined as (Al(OH) _2.55 ) ₄ [Si _6.8 AlO _1.2 }Al _3.4 Mg _0.6 ) ₂₀ (OH) ₄ ), _{and phylosilicate minerals or talc (typically defined as Mg3Si4O10 ( OH} ) ₂ ).

Another definition, frequently used by chemists, is "a sediment or sedimentary rock of natural origin composed of one or more minerals and accessory compounds, the whole usually being rich in hydrated aluminum silicate, iron or magnesium, hydrated alumina or iron oxide, having particles mainly of colloidal or quasi-colloidal size, and commonly developing plasticity when sufficiently pulverized and wetted" (see Kirk-Othmer, Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 5, page 544, 2nd edition, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New York, 1964). Examples of clays are given in the book "Clay mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson". Clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Hydrophilic clay includes smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites and beidellite. Hydrophilic clay includes synthetic hectorites (also known as laponites) such as the products sold by the Company under the name Laporte Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium silicates and magnesium silicates, particularly sodium, lithium and magnesium), bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone® HC Rheox, magnesium silicates and aluminum-based products such as the hydrated products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the name Ultra Veegum®, Veegum® HS, Veegum® DGT, or calcium silicates, and in particular the synthetic form sold by the Company under the name Micro-cel® C.

Fuller's earth is primarily composed of hydrated aluminum silicates that contain metal ions such as magnesium, sodium, and calcium within their structure. Montmorillonite is the primary clay mineral in Fuller's earth, but it may contain other minerals such as kaolinite, attapulgite, and palygorskite, among other components.

A lipophilic clay refers to a swellable clay in a lipophilic medium, the clay swells and forms a colloidal dispersion. Lipophilic clays include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone VS38 gel from Rheox), hectorites modified with a _C10 to _C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name “Bentone 38 CE” by Rheox or Bentone® 38V by ELEMENTIS.

The origin of such clay may be a natural or synthetic mineral clay, such as hectorite, bentonite and their quaternized derivatives, for example obtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium compound, such as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites, quaternized hectorites such as Quaternium-18 hectorite, carbonates such as propylene carbonate, bentones, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of clays that may be used in the present invention are fuller's earth, volcanic ash mud from Pinatubo in the Philippines, Aleppo clay from Syria, Pulau tiga volcanic mud from Malaysia, Nha Trang mud from Vietnam, white kaolinite from Korea, yellow loess from Korea, Jeju volcanic clay from Korea, Guanziling mud from Taiwan, Wudalianchi volcanic mud from China, Yuncheng salt lake black mud from China, Tantou village mineral mud from China, China clay (kaolin), Maifan stone from China, Beppu onsen Fango clay from Japan, Kucha clay from Japan, Tanakura clay from Japan, Cambrian blue clay from Russia, Blue Lagoon mud from Iceland, Saki Lake mud from Ukraine, Karlovy Vary moor mud from the Czech Republic, Heviz moor mud from the Czech Republic, and the like. Georgikon from Hungary, Moor Mud from the Austrian Alps, Bad Wilsnack Mud from Germany, Bavarian Mineral Salt Mountain Mud from Germany, Freiburg Volcanic Ash from Germany, Santorini Mud from Greece, Mar Menor Mud from Spain, Ischia Volcanic Mud from Italy, Euganean Thermal Mud from Italy, Yellow Illite Clay from France, French Green Clay - Montmorillonite, Calistoga Mud from USA, Sacred Clay and Ormalite from USA, Redmond Clay from USA, Arctic Mineral Mud from Canada, Tulum Mayan Clay from Mexico, Glacial Clay from Canada, Amazonian White Clay from Brazil, El Chillante Volcanic Thermal Mud from Argentina, African Healing Clay and Australian Olive Green Clay.

It is preferable that the clay is chosen from the group consisting of hectorite, kaolin, talc and a mixture of these.

When the composition comprises the clay, it may be coated with (a) the modified starch and (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid. In particular, when the composition comprises the clay, it may be coated with a complex of (a) the modified starch and (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid.

When the composition comprises clay, the hydrophobicity of the clay may be enhanced by (a) the modified starch and (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, preferably a complex formed by (a) the modified starch and (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, and more preferably a complex formed by the hydrophobic modified starch and myristic acid. Therefore, the clay may deposit more on a keratinous substance such as skin, due to the hydrophobic-hydrophobic interaction between the clay and the keratinous substance. This may result in an increase in the amount of deposition of the clay on the keratinous substance.

The amount of clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of clay in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Amphoteric surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used. Thus, a single type of amphoteric surfactant or a combination of different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may be preferably selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be chosen from betaine-type surfactants.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, alkylphosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylphosphobetaines, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014, as cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant (betaines) is preferably an alkylbetaine, an alkylsulfobetaine, and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine, sulfopropylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, there may be mentioned the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:

R ₁ -CONCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R ₂ )(R ₃ )(CH ₂ COO ^- ) M ⁺ X ^- (B1)

in which:

R ₁ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₁ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

R ₂ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group,

R ₃ denotes a carboxymethyl group,

M ⁺ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals such as sodium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;

X ^- denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are not present;

R ₁ '-CONCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(C) (B2)

in which:

R ₁ ' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₁ '-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl radical, a C ₁₇ alkyl radical and its isoform, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical,

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX',

C represents -(CH ₂ ) _z -Y', with z=1 or 2,

X' denotes a group -CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and

Y' denotes a radical -COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z', -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or a radical -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z',

in which Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

And

R _a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n -C(O)-NH-(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(Rd)(Re) (B'2)

in which:

Y'' denotes -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z'', wherein Z'' denotes a cationic ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

Rd and Re denote a _C1 - _C4 alkyl or _C1 - _C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;

R _a'' denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid, and

n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant of formula B1 and B2 is selected from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodiacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphomonopropionates and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodipropionates.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

An example is cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Among the compounds of formula (B'2), we can cite sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

The amphoteric surfactant may be selected from N-acylaminated acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide and lauramine oxide.

It is also preferable that the amphoteric surfactant is selected from amine oxides such as stearamine oxide and lauramine oxide.

The amount of the amphoteric surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the amphoteric surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of amphoteric surfactant in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the present invention, the weight ratio of the amount of (b) amphoteric surfactant/the amount of (b) C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be 0.5 or more, preferably 0.6 or more, and more preferably 0.7 or more.

It may be preferable that the weight ratio of the amount of amphoteric surfactant/the amount (b) of C _13- C ₁₅ fatty acid is 10 or less, more preferably 5 or less, and most preferably 3 or less.

- Hydrophilic organic solvent

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. Two or more hydrophilic organic solvents may be used. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic organic solvent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic organic solvents may be used.

The term "hydrophilic" herein refers to substances having a solubility of at least 1 g/L, preferably at least 10 g/L, and more preferably at least 100 g/L, in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Therefore, the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent is included in the aqueous phase, if any.

The cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, PEG-10, and PEG-20, and their derivatives, and a combination thereof.

The amount of the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Fatty acids other than C _13- C ₁₅ fatty acids

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid. Two or more fatty acids other than (b) the C _13- C ₁₅ fatty acid (b) may be used in combination.

The fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid is chosen from linear fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid is chosen from saturated fatty acids. Thus, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be linear and saturated fatty acids.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be fatty acids containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in particular linear and saturated fatty acids containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

Fatty acids containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms may be chosen from caproic acid, capric acid, lauric acid and their combination, and in particular lauric acid.

The amount of the fatty acid(s) containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight and, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid may be linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in particular linear and saturated fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

Fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms may be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid and their combination, and more preferably chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid and their combination.

The amount of the fatty acid(s) containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In some specific embodiments of the present invention, the fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid comprises two types of fatty acids, and particularly comprises a combination of the at least one fatty acid containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and the at least one fatty acid containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms. Thus, in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one of caproic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, and at least one of palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid in combination.

The amount of the fatty acid(s) other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- pH corrector

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one pH corrector selected from acidifying agents and basifying agents. Two or more pH correctors may be used in combination.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in cosmetic products.

The composition according to the present invention may be acidic. For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be less than 12.0, more preferably less than 11.0, and even more preferably less than 10.0.

Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention may be basic. For example, the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 7.0, more preferably greater than 7.5, and even more preferably greater than 8.0.

Acidifying agents include, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

Examples of basifying agents include ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below:

in which

W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R _a , R _b , R _c and R _d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

The acidifying or alkalizing agent may be used in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acidifying or alkalizing agent may be used in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acidifying or alkalizing agent may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Additives

The composition according to the present invention may also include any other optional or additional ingredient.

The other optional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, such as acrylate copolymer; cationic, nonionic or anionic surfactants, such as glycol distearate; fillers; pigments; inorganic and organic UV filters; peptides and their derivatives; protein hydrolysates; bulking agents and penetrating agents; hair loss control agents; anti-dandruff agents; suspending agents; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; opacifying agents; tints; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, ethanols and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the other optional ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[Shape]

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, as long as it is water-based, and can take various forms such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an E/O or O/W emulsion, thickened or not, a paste, a mousse or a cream, and preferably a solution, a dispersion, a gel and a paste.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. The keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, examples of which include skin, nails, lips, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic method for the keratinous substance, particularly the skin.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably be a rinse-off composition. The rinse-off composition may be removed from a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably with water.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably be a cleansing composition. The cleansing composition may remove sebum and/or makeup on a keratinous substance such as the skin, from the keratinous substance.

The composition according to the present invention may more preferably be a rinse-off cleansing composition. The rinse-off cleansing composition may remove sebum and/or makeup on a keratinous substance such as the skin, and may be removed from the keratinous substance, preferably with water.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above in a conventional manner.

[Process]

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substrate such as the skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substrate the composition according to the present invention.

It is preferable that the cosmetic method according to the present invention further comprises rinsing the composition according to the present invention which has been applied to the keratinous substance, from the keratinous substance.

The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, preferably for cleaning the keratinous substance such as the skin, and more preferably for cleaning sebum and/or makeup on the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of (c) the at least one powdered organometallic salt in a composition comprising

(a) at least one modified starch;

(b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid; and

(d) water,

in order to improve foaming properties in terms of foam volume as well as ease of foaming.

The same explanations given for the composition, (a) the at least one modified starch, (b) the at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid; (c) the at least one powdered organic salt, and (d) water may be applied to those for the method and use according to the present invention, unless otherwise indicated. The composition used in the method and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 and 2

[Preparations]

Each of the skin cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 (Ex. 1 to 6) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. Comp. 1 and 2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials. The product “modified corn starch” was obtained from Nouryon (product name: AMAZE).

[Evaluations]

(Sensory evaluations)

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were evaluated for ease of foaming and foam volume by 3 monitors by themselves.

- Easy foaming

0.5 mL of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and 1 mL of water were placed on the monitors' hand. Each of the samples was foamed with 10 circular motions. The foaming facility property was ranked with 5 scores by examining an amount of the sample remaining on the hand after the 10 circular motions. The score 5 indicates that the sample did not remain on the hand. The score 1 indicates that the sample remained on the hand.

- Foam volume

Following the above foaming ease assessment, foam volume properties were evaluated. 1 mL of water was added to the samples that were foamed on the hand. Each sample was then foamed again with 40 additional circular motions. Foam volume was then assessed with 5 scores. A higher score indicates that a higher volume of foam was created.

The average of each score was calculated. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex.
Comp. 1 Modified corn starch 1 1 1 1 Lauric acid 6.75 6.75 6.75 6.75 Myristic acid 5.4 5.4 5.4 5.4 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2 - - - Calcium stearate - 2 - - Magnesium stearate - - 2 - Coco-Betaine 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Glycerin 8 8 8 8 Propylene glycol 2 2 2 2 Glycol distearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Acrylate copolymer 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.65 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.0475 0.0475 0.0475 0.0475 Potassium hydroxide 3,825 3,825 3,825 3,825 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 pH 9.23 9.21 9.39 9.22 Ease of foaming 4 3.5 3.3 3 Foam volume 3 3.5 3.7 3

Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex.
Comp. 2 Modified corn starch 1 1 1 1 Lauric acid 6.75 6.75 6.75 6.75 Myristic acid 5.4 5.4 5.4 5.4 Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Hectorite 3 3 3 3 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2 - - - Calcium stearate - 2 - - Magnesium stearate - - 2 - Coco-Betaine 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Glycerin 8 8 8 8 Propylene glycol 2 2 2 2 Glycol distearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Acrylate copolymer 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.65 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.0475 0.0475 0.0475 0.0475 Potassium hydroxide 3,825 3,825 3,825 3,825 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 pH 9.22 9.24 9.36 9.28 Ease of foaming 3.6 3.1 3.2 3 Foam volume 4 3.8 3.5 3

It is apparent from Tables 1 and 2 that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6, which included a combination of ingredients (a) to (d), were able to provide better foaming ease and a greater amount of foam than Comparative Examples 1 and 2 which did not include the powdered organometallic salt (c).

Example 7

[Preparations]

A skin cleansing composition according to Example 7 (Ex. 7) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.

[Evaluations]

(Sensory evaluations)

The following properties were evaluated by 6 monitors by themselves. Each of the evaluated properties was ranked with 5 scores according to the following criteria.

- Easy foaming

Ease of foaming was assessed by examining the amount of sample remaining in the hand after foaming.

5: It was very easy to lather.

4: It was pretty easy to lather.

3: Neither.

2: It was rather difficult to foam.

1: It was very difficult to foam.

- Foam volume

Foam volume was assessed by examining the speed of foam created after foaming.

5: Very good

4: Good

3: Neither

2: Bad

1: Very bad

- Freshness

The feeling of freshness was assessed just after finishing washing the face.

5: Very fresh

4: Rather fresh

3: Neither

2: Not very fresh

1: Not at all fresh

- No feeling of tightness/dryness

After washing the face, it was assessed whether a feeling of tightness and/or dryness was felt.

5: No feeling of tightness/dryness

4: Sensation of slight tightness/dryness

3: Neither

2: Sensation of tightness/dryness rather marked

1: Very marked feeling of tightness/dryness

- Candy

The feeling of softness on the facial skin was assessed immediately after washing and for one day afterwards.

5: very soft

4: Rather sweet

3: Neither

2: Not very sweet

1: Not sweet at all

- Sebum regulation

Sebum regulating properties were examined by observing the appearance of the washed face after washing and for one day afterwards.

5: The oily shiny appearance was very well regulated.

4: The oily shiny appearance was rather regulated.

3: Neither.

2: The oily shine aspect was not very well regulated.

1: The oily shiny appearance was not regulated at all.

- Non-greasy/sticky feel to the touch

A level of non-greasy/sticky feel maintenance was assessed after washing and for one day afterwards.

5: No greasy/sticky feeling to the touch

4: Slightly greasy/sticky feel to the touch

3: Neither.

2: Rather greasy/sticky feeling to the touch

1: Very greasy/sticky feeling to the touch

The average of each score was calculated. The results are shown in Table 3 below.

Ex. 7 Modified corn starch 1 Lauric acid 6.75 Myristic acid 5.4 Stearic acid 1.5 Hectorite 3 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1 Coco-Betaine 2.7 Glycerin 8 Propylene glycol 3 Glycol distearate 1.5 Acrylate copolymer 1.65 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.0475 Potassium hydroxide 3,875 Water qsp 100 Ease of foaming 4.33 Foam volume 3.83 Freshness 4.83 No feeling of tightness/dryness 3 Candy 4.17 Sebum regulation 4.33 Non-greasy/sticky feel to the touch 4.33

As can be seen from Table 3, the composition according to the present invention can provide improved cosmetic sensory properties, such as providing freshness, no tight/dry feeling, softness, sebum regulation and non-greasy/sticky feel to the touch with a keratinous substance in addition to improved ease of foaming and foam volume.

Claims (10)

Composition comprising:
(a) at least one modified starch;
(b) at least one C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid;
(c) at least one powdered organic salt, and
(d) water. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the modified starch is hydrophobic, preferably hydroxyalkyl modified starch, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and a mixture thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid is myristic acid. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (c) powdered organic salt is insoluble in water. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (c) powdered organic salt is selected from fatty acid salts, modified polysaccharide salts, and a combination thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) powdered organic salt is powdered organometallic salts. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (a) the modified starch and (b) the C13-C15 fatty acid form a complex. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the composition further comprises at least one fatty acid other than (b) the C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ fatty acid, preferably comprising a combination of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and at least one fatty acid containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms. Cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, such as skin, comprising the step:
application to keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.