FR3144917A1 - Composition for improved smoothing of keratinous fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for improved smoothing of keratinous fibers The present invention relates to a composition for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metal salt of organic acid and (c) water. The present invention can improve a composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing the keratinous fibers with less color fading effects and /or more lasting smoothing effects. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Composition for improved smoothing of keratinous fibers

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair.

PRIOR ART

Straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratinous fibers manageable and reducing the volume and improving the appearance of the keratinous fibers. Such a straightening method using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short period of time, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting straightening method.

On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening methods using reducing agent and alkaline agent, as well as oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as long processing time, damage to keratin fibers and bad odor.

WO 2014/131469 discloses a composition for straightening keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, wherein the composition includes glyoxylic acid.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

There remains a need to improve the smoothing of keratinous fibers based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can prevent or reduce discoloration of the keratinous fibers and/or can provide the keratinous fibers with longer-lasting smoothing effects.

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;
2. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
3. de l'eau.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
2. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
3. water.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The metal of the organic acid metal salt (b) can be selected from magnesium, calcium and zinc.

The organic acid of the organic acid metal salt (b) may be selected from α-hydroxy acids, preferably selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid.

The metal salt of organic acid (b) can be magnesium, calcium or zinc gluconate.

The amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or a thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1. application d’une composition sur les fibres kératineuses ;
2. rinçage éventuel des fibres kératineuses, avec ou sans séchage des fibres kératineuses après rinçage ; et
3. lissage des fibres kératineuses à une température de plus de 50 ºC, de préférence, de plus de 100 ºC et plus préférablement, de plus de 150 ºC,

The present invention also relates to a method for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

1. application of a composition to keratinous fibers;
2. possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers, with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and
3. smoothing of keratinous fibres at a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC,

in which

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

the composition includes:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, which is capable of providing the keratinous fibres with a temperature of more than 50ºC, preferably more than 100ºC and more preferably more than 150ºC; and

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

at least one composition comprising

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; et

1. de l'eau,

The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one metal salt of organic acid in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

1. water,

with a view to preventing or reducing the discoloration of keratinous fibers

and/or

prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of the keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratinous fibers.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide an improved composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can prevent or reduce discoloration of the keratinous fibers and/or can provide longer lasting straightening effects.

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

The present invention can improve a composition for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, by providing the keratinous fibers with less bleaching effects and/or longer lasting straightening effects.

The present invention can prevent or reduce the discoloration of keratinous fibers. Thus, the color of keratinous fibers before and after their treatment with the present invention can be maintained or does not change substantially. For example, the color of dyed keratinous fibers would not show a substantial change before and after their treatment with the present invention.

The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with longer-lasting straightening effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the straightening effects for keratinous fibers provided by using a composition including only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straight shape of keratinous fibers over time.

For example, if the keratinous fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against a return of the keratinous fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening the keratinous fibers, particularly after shampooing.

In the present invention, the use of at least one metal salt of organic acid can prevent or reduce the discoloration of keratinous fibers by straightening and/or can lengthen or prolong the straightening effects of keratinous fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the use of at least one metal salt of organic acid can prevent or reduce the discoloration of dyed keratinous fibers and/or can further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, or can prevent or reduce the waviness of keratinous fibers.

The present invention can also impart sufficient immediate straightening effects to keratinous fibers. Thus, keratinous fibers treated with the present invention can exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of curls of the keratinous fibers. The straightening effects imparted by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratinous fibers. Thus, the present invention can also impart the shape of keratinous fibers with good shampoo resistance.

The present invention can cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared with conventional straightening methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing/oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. In addition, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional straightening methods.

In addition, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during use of the present invention can be reduced compared with conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

We will now describe the present invention in detail.

[Composition]

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

The composition according to the present invention, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprises:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

It is preferable that the above composition is a cosmetic composition, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, and even more preferably, a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratinous fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratinous fibers are hair.

(Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

Only one type of compound (a) may be used, but two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

As glyoxylic acid esters, there may be mentioned, for example, glyoxylic acid alkyl esters such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

The amount of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Metal salt of organic acid]

The composition according to the present invention may include (b) at least one metal salt of an organic acid. Two or more of these salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of these salts or a combination of different types of these salts may be used.

If a plurality of organic acid metal salts are used, it is possible that the organic acid types are different and/or the metal types are different.

The metal of the organic acid metal salt (b) may be selected from alkali metals, particularly sodium and potassium.

The metal of the organic acid metal salt (b) may be selected from alkaline earth metals, particularly magnesium and calcium.

The metal of the organic acid metal salt (b) may be selected from transition metals and elements of group 12 of the periodic table such as zinc.

The organic acid of the organic acid metal salt (b) may be selected from α-hydroxy acids.

α-Hydroxy acids can be represented by the following formula (I):
(I)

in which

R1 = H, -OH, _-NH2 , _-CH2COOH or a linear or branched _C1-4 alkyl,

R2 = H,- COOH, -CHOH-COOH, -CF ₃ ,- CH═CH ₂ , -NHCONH ₂ , an alkyl
C _1-8 linear, branched or cyclic optionally substituted by a chosen radical
among -OH, Cl, -NH ₂ , -COOH,CF ₃ and -SCH ₃ ; a phenyl or a benzyl optionally substituted by a radical -OH or -OCH ₃ ; or the radical
And

R1 and R2 can also together form an oxo radical (═O) or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl cycle with the carbon atom which carries them, or even the radical
And

when R1 = H, R2 may also represent a radical -(CHOH) ₂ CH ₂ OH or -(CHOH) ₃ CH ₂ OH, R = -OH or -NR3R4 with R3, R4 = H or a linear or branched C _1-4 alkyl optionally substituted by one or two OH radicals, as well as stereoisomers, organic or inorganic salts and solvates thereof.

α-hydroxy acids can be selected from the following:

glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid, 1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isoserine, glyceric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, 1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, citramalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid, mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, glyoxylurea, β-imidazolelactic acid, 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid, hexahydromandelic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, arabic acid, acid 3-phenyllactic acid, hydroxyphenylglycine, 3-hydroxymandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, L-arginic acid, 3-methoxymandelic acid, 4-methoxymandelic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, tartronic acid, β-chlorolactic acid, 1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutric acid, α-hydroxyisocaproic acid, α-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid, malic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, gluconic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide, N,N-dimethyllactamide, N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide, and stereoisomers, organic or inorganic salts and solvates thereof.

It may be preferable that the α-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, oxalic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, arabic acid, gluconic acid, hydroxytronic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide and N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide.

It may be preferable that the α-hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid.

It may be even more preferable if the organic acid metal salt (b) is magnesium gluconate, calcium gluconate or zinc gluconate.

The amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention includes water (c).

Thus, the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Betaine compound)

The composition according to the present invention may further include (d) at least one phosphate compound. A single type of specific betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

The term "betaine compound" herein refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety and the positively charged cationic moiety may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound (d) herein is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic portion and at least one hydrophobic portion.

The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine compound (d) includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine compound (d) includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound (d) includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably trimethylglycine.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.2% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention is 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(pH)

The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25°C.

The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

(Alkaline agent)

The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, according to the present invention, may include at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

The alkaline agent is different from the betaine compound (d).

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes one or more alkaline agent(s), if the compound (a) can serve to reduce the pH of the composition.

The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. It is preferable that the alkali agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkali agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Diamines can be described in the structure (B) below:
(B)

wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R _a , R _b , R _c and R _d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Acid)

The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, according to the present invention, may include at least one acid which is different from the compound (a) or the betaine compound (d). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

The acid may be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes one or more acids, if the compound (a) can serve to increase the pH of the composition.

As an acid, we can mention all inorganic or organic acids that are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

The amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The acid or acids may be used in a total amount of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Other optional ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: oils, preferably polar oils, and more preferably ester oils, in the form of a liquid at 25°C under atmospheric pressure; solid fatty substances and in particular C ₈ - C _{40 esters,} C ₈ - C ₄₀ acids and C ₈ - C ₄₀ alcohols, at 25°C under atmospheric pressure; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; fragrances; silanes; crosslinking agents; surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts that can be readily determined by a person skilled in the art and that may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as the amounts thereof, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

(Ammonia and thiol compound)

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression “free of ammonia or a thiol compound” means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or a thiol compound.

Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and/or thiol compound, the bad odor during use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

The thiol compound herein refers to a compound that has at least one thiol group (-SH).

The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C ₁ -C ₄ acylated derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, in particular s-alkyl derivatives, as well as the salts thereof.

As the above salts, there may be mentioned, for example, ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively, may be mentioned.

Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid and their derivatives; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 514 282; (2/3) 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate; and the mixture based on 2-hydroxy-1-methylethyl thioglycolate (67/33) described in French patent application No. 2,679,448.

(Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably being free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

The expression “free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent” means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricynaides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

(Shape)

The compositions used according to the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (W/O) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

The compositions according to the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, a lotion, a gel and the like.

[Process]

1. application d’une composition sur les fibres kératineuses ;

1. rinçage éventuel des fibres kératineuses avec ou sans séchage des fibres kératineuses après rinçage ; et
2. lissage des fibres kératineuses à une température de plus de 50 ºC, de préférence, de plus de 100 ºC et plus préférablement, de plus de 150 ºC,

The present invention also relates to a method for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps:

1. application of a composition to keratinous fibers;

1. possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and
2. smoothing of keratinous fibres at a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC,

in which

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

the composition includes:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

The details of the composition used in the method according to the present invention are the same as those explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

The method according to the present invention is intended for the smoothing of keratinous fibers, such as hair, preferably for smoothing for a long period and more preferably, for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the method according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent smoothing method.

It is best to clean the keratinous fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be done, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers can be dried. It is best if the keratinous fibers are damp just before step (i).

In step (i), the composition, which is described above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.8 and 2. The expression “bath ratio” is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

It may be possible that, after application of the composition, the keratinous fibres are left as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibres.

After step (i), the process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratinous fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition of the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are not dried after being rinsed. The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

In step (iii), the keratinous fibres, which are preferably dry, are subjected to straightening at a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron. This temperature may be less than 250 °C, preferably less than 240 °C and more preferably less than 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to smooth them.

It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

It is preferable that the heating iron, particularly a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratinous fibres. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably, from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[kit]

The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

at least one heating element which is capable of providing the keratinous fibres with a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC; and

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et mélanges de ceux-ci ;

1. au moins un sel métallique d'acide organique ; et
2. de l'eau.

at least one composition comprising

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

1. at least one metal salt of organic acid; and
2. water.

The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC. This temperature may be less than 250 ºC, preferably less than 240 ºC and more preferably less than 230 ºC. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 ºC and less than 250 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and less than 240 ºC, and more preferably more than 150 ºC and less than 230 ºC.

It is best if the heating element is a heating iron, as explained in the [Process] section above.

The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound. The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

The above explanations regarding the compound (a), the organic acid metal salt (b) and water (c), as well as the betaine compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for the kit according to the present invention.

[Use]

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; et

1. de l'eau ;

The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one metal salt of organic acid in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

1. water;

in view of

prevent or reduce discoloration of keratinous fibers

and/or

prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of the keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratinous fibers.

The heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and more preferably more than 150 ºC. This temperature may be less than 250 ºC, preferably less than 240 ºC and more preferably less than 230 ºC. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 ºC and less than 250 ºC, preferably more than 100 ºC and less than 240 ºC, and more preferably more than 150 ºC and less than 230 ºC.

The use of at least one metal salt of organic acid (b) can prevent or reduce the discoloration of keratinous fibers, in particular dyed keratinous fibers, due to straightening by a composition comprising compound (a).

The use of at least one metal salt of organic acid (b) can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers provided by compound (a).

The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound. The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

The above explanations regarding the compound (a), the organic acid metal salt (b) and water (c), as well as the betaine compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for the use according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-9 and comparative examples 1-5

[Preparations]

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 and 5 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials.

Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Glyoxylic acid
(50% by weight) 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 Magnesium gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 1 1 1 5 5 5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Betaine (trimethylglycine) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydroxide
of potassium - qs pH 2 qs pH 3 - qs pH 2 qs pH 3 - - qs pH 3 HCl qs pH 1 - - qs pH 1 - - qs pH 1 qs pH 2 - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Color (ΔE) 12.0 10.0 9.5 10.8 10.0 9.0 9.5 9.7 7.4 Smoothing effects 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Smoothing effects
(after 1 shampoo) 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 Smoothing effects
(after 7 shampoos) 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 5 3 Frizz Control 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Frizz control (after 1 shampoo) 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 5 4 Frizz control (after 7 shampoos) 4 4 3 4 3 4 3 3 3

Ex.
comp. 1 Ex.
comp. 2 Ex.
comp. 3 Ex.
comp. 4 Ex.
comp. 5 Glyoxylic acid
(50% by weight) - - - 14 14 Magnesium gluconate 5 5 5 - - Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 Betaine (trimethylglycine) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Potassium hydroxide - - - - qs pH 3 HCl qs pH 1 qs pH 2 qs pH 3 qs pH 1 - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Color (ΔE) 5.1 2.9 2.5 13.3 10.8 Smoothing effects 5 5 5 6 6 Smoothing effects
(after 1 shampoo) 2 2 2 4 4 Smoothing effects
(after 7 shampoos) 1 1 1 4 2 Frizz Control 5 5 5 6 6 Frizz Control
(after 1 shampoo) 1 1 1 3 2 Frizz Control
(after 7 shampoos) 1 1 1 2 1

[Evaluations]

Coloring: A 27 cm long strand of Chinese white natural hair was colored to a warm brown color with an oxidative hair dye (L'Oréal Professional, Alluria Fashion Gray). 3 g of a mixture of the oxidative hair dye and a developer (L'Oréal Professional Alluria Cream Oxydant 6% H ₂ O ₂ ) was applied to 1 g of the hair strand, and the hair strand was left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 27 °C. The hair strand was rinsed and shampooed to complete the hair coloring process as preparation before the styling process.

Styling: 2 g of each composition was then applied to 1 g of the hair strand and left for 10 minutes at a temperature of 30 °C. The hair strand was rinsed with warm running water for 30 seconds and dried using a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) until the hair strand was completely dry. The hair strand was then straightened using a heated hair iron (ADST-2, Hakko limited, Japan) at 180 °C for 3 passes of 4 seconds, from the tip to the root of the hair strand.

Shampoo: The hair strand was then moistened with a finger under warm running water for 5 seconds. The hair strand (1 g) was washed in 6 finger strokes with 0.4 g of shampoo, including 10.5% sodium laureth sulfate, and then rinsed for 10 seconds with a finger. The hair strand was dried with a hair dryer until completely dry.

(Color)

The L*a*b* (brightness/green-red/blue-yellow) values of the newly dyed hair strand were measured using a spectrophotometer (CM-3600A, Konica Minolta, Japan). Four (4) points on the hair strand were measured.

After styling and shampooing, L*a*b* values were measured again. ΔE ^* (between hair strand color before styling and shampooing and hair strand color after styling and shampooing based on CIE1976) was determined. A lower ΔE value indicates less bleaching.

The results are shown on the line marked “Color” in Tables 1 and 2.

(Smoothing effects)

The smoothing effects for the hair strand provided by each composition, just after styling, after styling and 1 shampoo and after styling and 7 shampoos, were evaluated respectively by visual observation according to the following criteria. The more the shape was kept straight, the higher the value given for this attribute.

6: Perfectly straight from root to tip

5: Straight

4: Relatively straight, presence of some loops

3: Partially straight and loops observed

2: Less straight and more loops observed

1: Looped

The results are presented in the rows titled “Smoothing effects”, “Smoothing effects (after 1 shampoo)” and “Smoothing effects (after 7 shampoos)” in Tables 1 and 2.

(Frizz Control)

The frizz control performance for the hair strand provided by each composition, immediately after styling, after styling and 1 shampoo, and after styling and 7 shampoos, was evaluated by visual observation according to the following criteria. When the hair has less frizz or flyaways, the score is higher.

6: Perfectly controlled frizz, total absence of unruly hair

5: Well controlled frizz, no flyaways observed

4: Relatively controlled frizz, very little flyaway hair observed

3: Frizz partially controlled, few flyaways observed

2: Slightly controlled frizz, some flyaways observed

1: Uncontrolled frizz, many unruly hairs observed

The results are shown in the rows labeled “Frizz Control,” “Frizz Control (after 1 shampoo),” and “Frizz Control (after 7 shampoos)” in Tables 1 and 2.

(Summary)

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 9 including: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metal salt of organic acid and (c) water, were able to reduce the discoloration of keratinous fibers dyed by the straightening process, and were able to reduce the loss of the straight shape of the straightened keratinous fibers even after several shampoos.

The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 did not include ingredient (a), and therefore, they could not maintain the smoothing effects even after 1 shampoo.

The compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 and 5 did not include ingredient (b), and therefore, they could not provide long-lasting smoothing effects.

Claims (10)

Composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising:
(a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one metal salt of an organic acid; and
(c) water. The composition of claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the metal of the organic acid metal salt is chosen from magnesium, calcium and zinc. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the organic acid of the organic acid metal salt (b) is selected from α-hydroxy acids, preferably selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the organic acid metal salt (b) is magnesium, calcium or zinc gluconate. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one betaine compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof. A process for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps:
(i) application of a composition to the keratinous fibers;
(ii) optional rinsing of the keratinous fibres with or without drying of the keratinous fibres after rinsing; and
(iii) straightening keratinous fibres at a temperature of more than 50ºC, preferably more than 100ºC and more preferably more than 150ºC,
in which
the composition includes:
(a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one metal salt of an organic acid; and
(c) water. Kit for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, including:
at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, which is capable of providing the keratinous fibres with a temperature of more than 50ºC, preferably more than 100ºC and more preferably more than 150ºC; and
at least one composition comprising
(a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one metal salt of an organic acid; and
(c) water. Use of at least one metal salt of organic acid (b) in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:
(a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
(c) water,
with a view to preventing or reducing the discoloration of keratinous fibers
and/or
prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of the keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratinous fibers.